I have to teach you how to paint NMM gold, especially after Games Workshop kindly sent me a review copy of the Age of Sigmar Dominion box, which is full of these golden boys! The first model I decided to paint was this chonky Annihilator!
NMM means (Non Metallic Metal) – so it looks like gold paint, but is painted with “normal” paints. Read on and see!
How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part One
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How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part Two
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Paints and Tools
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Yriel Yellow, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zamesi Desert, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black
P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine)
Step By Step Guide: How to Paint NMM Gold
Step 1: Base Layer – Zamesi Desert:
Start by applying the base layer using Zamesi Desert. Be careful with the application, as it can build up like a dusty layer if you’re sloppy. Use thin layers and consider dry brushing or stippling for a textured effect.
Step 2: Highlights with Scrappy Marks:
Apply the highlights by holding the model under a light source and quickly blocking in where the highlights hit. Use a chunky stippling style for blocking colours on the armour. Quick transitions work well for a better look. Don’t worry about brush marks; the focus is on selling the non-metallic effect.
Step 3: Light Volumes and Reflections:
Focus on getting the light volumes right for the non-metallic metal effect. Reflect other lights around you, similar to how a mirror reflects light. Be aware that some parts may not catch light as desired, but you can tweak it as you go along.
Step 4: Adding White Highlights:
Add white highlights using P3 Morrow White or any white paint of your preference. These highlights will enhance the non-metallic effect. Be mindful of the thickness of the paint, and if needed, glaze over for a refined and neater look.
Step 5: Balancing Highlights:
Maintain consistency in the highlights by holding the model under a light source and blocking in where the highlights hit. Balance is crucial for selling the non-metallic metal effect.
Step 6: Layering and Glazing:
Consider using glazing techniques with colours like Balor Brown or Japanese Uniform to add depth and colour variation. Thin your paints for later stages to achieve refined and smaller marks. Glazing helps neaten and soften the overall look.
Step 7: Additional Details and Contrast:
Add additional details using Rhinox Hide for larger areas to push contrast. Use watered-down Rhinox Hide for subtlety, and consider adding white highlights for reflections.
Step 8: Stippling and Scratching:
Stipple and scratch with a watered-down mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for larger areas. This technique adds texture and a brushed look to the non-metallic gold.
Step 9: Final Touches and Glazing:
Continue blending and refining the paint with scratchy marks. Towards the end, consider glazing to further enhance and refine the non-metallic gold effect. Adjust as needed for a balanced finish.
Learn NMM Like a Pro!
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NMM
In this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf from the new Chaos Dwarf Blood Bowl box, provided by Games Workshop as an early review copy. We’ll be focusing on achieving a high tabletop standard, using a combination of classic paint colours and techniques to bring out the rich, detailed character of the model. Whether you’re painting for your next game or aiming for a display-worthy finish, this step-by-step guide will help you tackle everything from non-metallic metal gold to vibrant red armour, all while keeping the process efficient and enjoyable.
Video – How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf
Step-by-Step Guide
Materials Required:
Games Workshop Paints:
Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Bugman’s Glow, Night Lords Blue, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo Paints:
Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey
Two Thin Coats Paints:
Dark Sun YellowWhite Star
Brushes: Artis Opus Size 1 Brush, Artis Opus Size 00 Brush
Other Tools: Wet Palette, Lamp (for checking light placement), Water Jar
How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf
Step 1: Priming
Start by priming the model using Mephiston Red as the base coat. You can use an airbrush or a hand brush to apply it. This will form the base of the red armour and speed up the process.
Step 2: Painting the Beard
For the beard, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to base coat it.
Highlight the beard using Vallejo Neutral Grey. Apply this in parallel strokes to follow the sculpted lines of the beard.
Add some final highlights by mixing Neutral Grey with a bit of White Star and pick out raised areas.
Step 3: Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim
For the gold trim, begin with XV-88 as the base colour. This provides a solid foundation for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect.
Create your first highlight mix with Dark Sun Yellow. Layer this on top of the XV-88, leaving some of the base visible.
Gradually lighten the gold by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with White Star. Apply smaller, more precise highlights with each layer.
To give the gold a bit more warmth, you can glaze over areas with XV-88 or add subtle orange tints using Troll Slayer Orange in the shadowed areas.
Step 4: Painting the Red Armour
After the Mephiston Red base, layer on Evil Sunz Scarlet. Use a stippling or scratchy technique to give texture to the armour.
For shadowing, use Night Lords Blue in the recesses and shaded areas, being careful not to overwhelm the red.
If needed, go back with Evil Sunz Scarlet to reinforce the red and add brightness.
Step 5: Shading and Highlighting the Face
Wash the face with a thinned-down layer of Rhinox Hide (4 parts water, 1 part paint) to shade it and separate it from the rest of the armour.
Highlight the face using Bugman’s Glow, focusing on the raised areas like the nose, cheeks, and brow.
For brighter highlights, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow (or White Star if you don’t have Ice Yellow) to add subtle highlights to key areas like the cheekbones and nose bridge.
Step 6: Painting the Eyes
Paint the whites of the eyes using a light grey rather than pure white to keep it natural.
Use black to paint the pupil and iris in one go, as these are very small details that don’t require too much fine detail.
Step 7: Painting the Teeth and Horns
Base the teeth and horns with Morghast Bone. You can use the same colour for both areas to keep consistency.
Add highlights using White Star on the tips of the teeth and horns, carefully placing small dots or lines for a shine effect.
Step 8: Painting the Leather Areas
The gloves and boots can be painted with the same colours as the horns. Start with XV-88 for the base coat, then highlight with Morghast Bone, but don’t take the highlights up to white for these areas.
Step 9: Finishing Touches
Once the main areas are painted, go back and refine any details that need sharpening, such as the edges of the armour or the highlights on the face.
If the red armour starts looking too dark or the highlights become too muted, reapply Evil Sunz Scarlet in fine marks to bring the vibrancy back.
Step 10: Final Shading and Glazing
For a final touch, glaze over the non-metallic gold areas with a thin mix of XV-88 to enhance the richness of the colour.
You can add extra depth to the shadows by applying a thin wash of Night Lords Blue in the deepest recesses of the red armour.
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Unlock the secrets to painting Rogal Dorn’s iconic armour with this comprehensive guide on the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique. Learn how to master the art of simulating reflective gold without using metallic paints. This step-by-step guide, complete with tips and tricks, will walk you through every stage of the process, from priming and base layers to perfecting highlights and shadows. Whether you’re new to NMM or looking to refine your skills, this guide is your go-to resource for achieving stunning results.
How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here.
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How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold
In this detailed video guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
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Why Use NMM Gold for to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour?
Rogal Dorn, the stalwart Primarch of the Imperial Fists, is renowned for his unyielding defence of the Imperium. His armour, adorned in resplendent gold, symbolizes not only his noble duty to protect humanity but also reflects the unbreakable spirit of the Imperial Fists. The gold represents his loyalty and the shining beacon of hope he stands for in the dark times of war. Painting his armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold captures this grandeur and allows you to highlight the brilliance and majesty of one of the Imperium’s greatest warriors!
More Tips on NMM!
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In this guide, we’ll walk through how to paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock with a grimy, non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. The focus will be on creating weathered steel armour and verdigris-weathered copper. You’ll learn to build up layers using stippling and dry brushing, while maintaining the gritty, battle-worn look typical of Skaven. This method is also ideal for quickly painting an entire army to a table-ready standard.
Video – How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock: Part One
Materials Needed:
Games Workshop Paints: Doombull Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow
Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
Brushes: Large and small dry brushes (Artis Opus recommended, or makeup brushes can suffice), size 0 brush, and others as needed
Step 1: Prime the Model
Begin by priming your assembled model with Abaddon Black,
Step 2: Base Layer with Mournfang Brown
Using a large dry brush, apply a base coat of Mournfang Brown using a stippling technique. Thin the paint by mixing it with water (about 50/50 ratio). Ensure the dry brush is damp but not wet to avoid texture buildup.
Stipple the paint all over the model, ensuring a smooth application with no unwanted texture. This will create a rough surface that adds depth to the dirty, grimy appearance of the armour.
Step 3: Add Neutral Grey Highlights
Switch to a smaller dry brush for more control, and apply Vallejo Neutral Grey. Again, thin the paint with water (50/50) and lightly stipple the paint over areas where you want the steel effect.
Focus on armour plates and metallic surfaces, building up a soft layer of grey over the brown to give it a worn metallic look. Let the initial layer of Mournfang Brown peek through to give the impression of rust and grime.
Step 4: Refine the Metallic Layers
Now, switch to your size 0 brush for more detailed work. Continue building highlights using Neutral Grey but add small amounts of Ice Yellow with each layer.
Increase the amount of Ice Yellow in each highlight as you progress, eventually reaching pure Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights. Add a final touch of white if you want to push the contrast further.
Be cautious not to overblend; the strength of this technique lies in the visible transitions between layers, adding texture and a rough, battle-worn appearance.
Step 5: Create Verdigris on Copper Sections
For the copper elements, begin with Doombull Brown as your base colour. Hold the model under a light to identify the highlight areas. Thin Doombull Brown and apply it to the copper parts of the model.
Mix Bugman’s Glow with Doombull Brown for the next layer, applying this mix to the raised areas of the copper.
Progressively add Ice Yellow to Bugman’s Glow for further highlights, working up to nearly pure Ice Yellow. If your copper starts looking too pale, glaze over with a watered-down layer of Doombull Brown to restore some warmth.
Step 6: Add Verdigris Weathering
To achieve a verdigris effect, mix Vallejo Ice Yellow and Warpstone Glow with water (about 3:1 ratio of water to paint). Apply this to recesses and areas where the copper would naturally oxidise.
Focus on the joints and edges of the copper parts. As the glaze dries, it will create a subtle verdigris patina, enhancing the aged look of the model.
Step 7: Apply Rusty Shadows and Dark Glazes
To deepen the shadows on the armour, mix Rhinox Hide with Abaddon Black, thinning it with water (4:1 water to paint). Use this glaze to darken recesses and areas where rust would gather, particularly around the joints and lower sections.
Glaze carefully to avoid losing the texture created by earlier stippling. Stay away from the brightest highlights to maintain the contrast.
Step 8: Add a Pop of Colour – Warpstone Glow Lens
For small details like lenses, start by applying Warpstone Glow to the lens, followed by a highlight of Moot Green. Finish with a small dot of Flash Gitz Yellow in the upper corner of the lens for a specular highlight.
Ensure the lens stands out from the grimy armour to give the model a bit of Skaven flare.
This stage of painting the Skaven Arch-Warlock gives you a quick and effective tabletop-ready look, perfect for gaming or as a base for further refinement. The grimy, weathered appearance suits the Skaven’s lore, while the stippling and dry brushing techniques create a realistic metallic effect without needing an airbrush.
In the next part, we’ll continue with other details such as the weapon, robe, and tail.
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Welcome to my guide on how to paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon from the Hive Secundus box set. This video tutorial along with step-by-step guide will help you achieve a high tabletop standard, with lots of the techniques interchangeable for your other models’ weapons, too!
Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Materials and Paints Needed
Paints
Games Workshop:
Incubi Darkness
Daemonette Hide
Abaddon Black
P3:
Morrow White
Vallejo:
Model Colour Black
Brushes
Artist Opus Size 1 brush
Artist Opus Size 00 brush
Other Tools
Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed)
Wet palette
Preparation
Weapon Removal:
If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier.
How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Base Colour
Incubi Darkness:
Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading.
Highlighting
Daemonette Hide:
Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light.
For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition.
For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth.
Blending Highlights
Incubi Darkness:
Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights.
For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish.
Edge Highlights
Daemonette Hide:
Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon.
Daemonette Hide and Morrow White:
Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features.
Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas.
Painting the Number ‘2’
Base Colour
Light Grey:
Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon.
If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish.
Detailing the Number
Vallejo Model Colour Black:
Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work.
If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges.
Additional Details
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections
Neutral Grey to White:
For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights.
Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish.
Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look.
Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Part Two
Materials and Paints Needed:
Paints:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Detail brush for fine lines and highlights
A larger brush for base coating
Additional Tools:
Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable
Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections
Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush.
Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)
Preparing the Base Colour
Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover.
Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish.
Building the NMM Gold Effect
Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal.
Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas.
Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition.
Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight.
Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal.
Adding Hazard Stripes
Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up.
Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out.
Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension.
Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition.
Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes.
Final Touches
Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes.
Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic.
Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place.
Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work.
By following these steps, you’ll have a beautifully painted Van Saar Heavy Weapon that stands out on the tabletop. Enjoy the process and take your time to achieve the best results!
More Van Saar Tutorials!
How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set
In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips!
Watch Now
If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
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In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips!
Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus setPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set Base Colour ApplicationHighlightingDetailing with BlacksPainting the VisorEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponMaterials and Paints NeededPaintsBrushesOther ToolsPreparationStep by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponBase ColourHighlightingBlending HighlightsEdge HighlightsPainting the Number ‘2’Base ColourDetailing the NumberAdditional DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) SectionsVideo : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Materials and Paints Needed:Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Preparing the Base ColourBuilding the NMM Gold EffectAdding Hazard StripesFinal Touches
Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set
The techniques and steps covered should help you achieve a high-quality finish on the armour panels and visor.
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Dark Reaper, Sybarite Green, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Model Colour Black
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Size 1 Artis Opus
Size 0 Artis Opus
Additional Tools:
Wet palette
Lamp for lighting guidance
Step by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set
Base Colour Application
Base Colour: Start by applying Dark Reaper as the base colour. This colour should cover all the armour panels.
Tip: Use a wet palette to keep your paints fresh and to mix colours easily.
Highlighting
First Highlight Mix: Create a 50/50 mix of Dark Reaper and Sybarite Green.
Apply this mix to the raised areas of the armour, focusing on where the light naturally hits.
Paint towards the highlight points to ensure the finish is opaque and the colours are strong.
Second Highlight: Use pure Sybarite Green for the next layer.
Apply this in smaller areas within the previously highlighted sections.
For best results, use the lamp as a rough guide for light placement.
Final Highlight: Mix Sybarite Green with P3 Morrow White to achieve the final highlight colour.
Apply this sparingly to the highest points of the armour.
Ensure the transitions between layers are smooth. If necessary, go back with the darker mix to blend the steps.
Detailing with Blacks
Glazing Shadows: Use Abaddon Black to glaze shadows and enhance depth.
This paint is slightly satin and has less coverage, making it ideal for subtle shading.
Apply it to the chest panel and other large armour sections where you want the darkest areas.
Rubber Effect: For a stronger black mark, use Vallejo Model Colour Black.
This paint is more opaque and covers better, perfect for small details and corrections.
Painting the Visor
Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown to the visor as a base.
This will help establish a rich, warm undertone.
Highlighting the Visor: Use the following sequence for the visor highlights:
Mix Mournfang Brown with Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow (50/50) and apply.
Pure Dark Sun Yellow for the next layer.
Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White for the final highlight.
Adding Contrast: To enhance the visor’s shine, add a touch of Rhinox Hide to the upper highlight areas.
This creates a quick transition to a nearly white highlight for a shiny effect.
Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Use the highlight mixes to edge highlight the armour panels.
Keep the lines sharp and neat, cutting into them with the darker base colours if needed.
Blending: Go back and forth between the highlight and base colours to blend any visible transitions.
For small, detailed areas, use the tip of the brush and work slowly.
Additional Reflections: Add subtle reflections to the visor and armour panels for a more realistic effect.
Use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to darken areas as needed, enhancing the 3D effect.
Video: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Learn how to apply a smooth base coat using Incubi Darkness and create striking highlights with Daemonette Hide. We cover mastering blending techniques for seamless transitions and edge highlighting for sharp, clean details. Additionally, you’ll learn how to freehand the number ‘2’ for a personalised touch and paint non-metallic metal (NMM) sections for realistic metal effects.
Materials and Paints Needed
Paints
Games Workshop:
Incubi Darkness
Daemonette Hide
Abaddon Black
P3:
Morrow White
Vallejo:
Model Colour Black
Brushes
Artist Opus Size 1 brush
Artist Opus Size 00 brush
Other Tools
Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed)
Wet palette
Preparation
Weapon Removal:
If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier.
Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Base Colour
Incubi Darkness:
Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading.
Highlighting
Daemonette Hide:
Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light.
For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition.
For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth.
Blending Highlights
Incubi Darkness:
Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights.
For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish.
Edge Highlights
Daemonette Hide:
Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon.
Daemonette Hide and Morrow White:
Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features.
Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas.
Painting the Number ‘2’
Base Colour
Light Grey:
Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon.
If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish.
Detailing the Number
Vallejo Model Colour Black:
Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work.
If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges.
Additional Details
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections
Neutral Grey to White:
For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights.
Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish.
Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look.
Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)
Materials and Paints Needed:
Paints:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Detail brush for fine lines and highlights
A larger brush for base coating
Additional Tools:
Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable
Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections
Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush.
Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)
Preparing the Base Colour
Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover.
Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish.
Building the NMM Gold Effect
Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal.
Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas.
Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition.
Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight.
Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal.
Adding Hazard Stripes
Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up.
Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out.
Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension.
Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition.
Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes.
Final Touches
Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes.
Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic.
Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place.
Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work.
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This is part 2 in a series for how to paint a Grey Seer from the Skaventide box that Games Workshop sent me. This video focuses on the metal sections of the staff, particularly the top symbol, and how to paint it in NMM and add verdigris.
Video: How to paint a Grey Seer – NMM and Verdigris
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green
Vallejo: Ice Yellow
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
Inverted Highlighting and Verdigris
We’ll start by finishing the verdigris around the runes on the dagger. This involves inverted highlighting, where the darkest areas are actually the lightest. The mix for this is Sybarite Green and Sotek Green, with a touch of white added for the highlight layer. Remember this mix, as we’ll use it later on the staff and symbol.
How to paint a Grey Seer Staff
Base Colours:
If you airbrushed the model with brown, you can use XV-88 as your starting point for highlights.
For areas not covered by XV-88, use Mournfang Brown to blend the edges.
Remember, the goal is a scratched, rough metal look, not a perfectly smooth finish.
Highlighting:
Start by mixing XV-88 with Dark Sun Yellow and apply it to the curves of the staff, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit.
Gradually add more Dark Sun Yellow to your mix for subsequent highlights, building up the brightness.
For the final highlights, use pure Dark Sun Yellow or Ice Yellow mixed with Dark Sun Yellow.
Remember to paint the entire staff, including the back and sides, but focus the brightest highlights on the front.
Adding Depth and Contrast:
Use Rhinox Hide to darken areas and create contrast.
Thin the Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for smoother blending.
Don’t worry about being too precise with the scratches; they’ll add to the overall texture.
Painting the Symbol
Flat Surfaces:
Painting NMM on flat surfaces can be tricky, but focus on edge highlights and texture.
Use the same colors and techniques as for the staff, but pay attention to the light source and where the brightest highlights should be.
Leave the sides of the symbol dark to enhance contrast.
Verdigris:
Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (50/50) and heavily water it down (70% water, 30% paint).
Apply the verdigris to the recesses and darker areas of the symbol.
Remember, this is for visual effect, not realism, so focus on what looks best.
Additional Tips for How to Paint a Grey Seer
Use a size 1 Artist Opus brush for the scratchy marks.
Don’t worry about perfect transitions; the scratches will help blend the colours.
Consider the overall lighting of your model and adjust highlight placement accordingly.
For a more desaturated gold, add more white to your Dark Sun Yellow mixes.
More videos on how to paint a Grey Seer!
How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer
My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer!
Watch Now
How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer
In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting
Watch Now
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This step-by-step guide provides a comprehensive overview of the process for how to paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel. By following these steps, you can achieve a stunning NMM (non-metallic metal) finish which you can use on your Abraxia, or anything that has this distinctive curved armour or carapace shape!
Video: How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel
Materials
Games Workshop paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Abaddon Black, Sons of Horus Green, Barak-Nar Burgundy
Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Heavy Grey
Two Thin Coats paint: Dark Sun Yellow
P3 paint: Morrow White
Various Artist Opus brushes, including size 1 and size 2
Steps to Follow
Step 1: Block in the Colours
Begin by roughly blocking in the colours on the entire model using a size 1 brush. This helps to establish the overall colour scheme and provides a base for the highlights.
Use Neutral Grey for the armour plates and XV-88 for the gold trim.
Apply Sons of Horus Green and Barak-Nar Burgundy to the skin areas.
Step 2: Refine the Armour Plates
Choose an armour panel to focus on and begin refining the NMM effect.
Start with Neutral Grey and gradually add Ice Yellow to create a series of increasingly lighter highlights.
Use a variety of brush strokes to create texture and variation in the reflections, ensuring a “micro texture” that is smooth and detailed.
Consider the overall lighting of the model and place the highlights accordingly.
Glaze with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to add depth and warmth to the shadows.
Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights, creating smooth transitions and a bright, opaque finish.
Step 3: Add Weathering and Details
Use a smaller brush to add scratches, dents, and other details to the armour plates, turning the marks from the initial blocking in into realistic battle damage.
Vary the colours of the weathering based on the surrounding area, using darker greys or black in shadowed areas and lighter greys or white in highlighted areas.
Glaze with white to create a smooth, opaque finish on the brightest highlights, enhancing the illusion of reflected light.
Step 4: Repeat for Additional Panels
Repeat the process for the remaining armour panels, adjusting the placement and intensity of the highlights to match the overall lighting scheme.
Remember that the highlights should become smaller and darker as you move away from the main focal point of the model.
Additional Tips:
Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours and techniques.
Consider the overall composition of the model and how the different elements will interact with each other – what will be on your base? Who will be around it? Colours will reflect off these objects onto the shiny armour.
Building your Abraxia
How to Build Abraxia, With Tips!
This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc.
Watch Now
Read PDF Guide
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This how to paint a Red Techmarine NMM Axe guide aims to help you achieve a realistic non-metallic metal effect on your Techmarine’s axe, with a focus on contrast, texture, and light reflection.
For all of the videos on how to paint a Red Techmarine, follow the link below, or scroll down here for just the axe guide!
Red Techmarine
A series for how to paint a Primaris Techmarine by Games Workshop.
Watch Now
Video: How to Paint a Red Techmarine – NMM Axe
This guide aims to help you achieve a realistic non-metallic metal effect on your Techmarine’s axe, with a focus on contrast, texture, and light reflection.
Materials Needed:
Fine detail brushes for precise application. (I use the Artis Opus range, but any decent quality brush works!)
A wet palette to keep your paints hydrated.
Vallejo and Games Workshop paints: Doombull Brown, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, XV-88, Ice Yellow, Pale Grey Blue, and P3 Morrow White (or any white).
Preparing the NMM Axe:
Metal Pole: Begin by painting the metal pole using the same NMM techniques detailed in the previous video. This ensures consistency across metallic elements of the miniature.
Painting the Circular Detail on the NMM Axe:
Base Colour: Start with the darker brown (Doombull Brown), applying it as the base for the small circular detail on the pole. This connects the colour scheme with the axe head, adding warmth and interest.
Highlighting: Gradually build up the highlights transitioning from dark (Doombull Brown) to light (XV-88 to Ice Yellow) from the top to the bottom of the circular detail. Finish with a thin edge highlight at the top for definition.
Painting the NMM Axe Blade:
Vertical Lines: Initially, paint vertical lines across the blade with a mixture of 50:50 water to paint. This underlayer softens the stark contrast between subsequent horizontal lines and the dark primer.
Adding Texture: Apply horizontal lines over the vertical ones to create a cross-hatching effect. This technique adds texture and subtlety to the blade, avoiding harsh contrasts.
Defining Highlights: Focus on creating a diagonal highlight across the axe head, marking the primary light reflection. This line should be brighter at the top edge of the blade, tapering and becoming more subtle as it crosses the blade.
Building Up the Blade’s Texture:
Further Highlights: Use Mournfang Brown to add more texture and depth, emphasizing the top of the blade where the light is strongest. The aim is to make the top appear lighter than the bottom, enhancing the NMM effect.
Ice Yellow Highlights: Progress to Ice Yellow for the highest highlights, concentrating on areas that would catch the most light. Ensure these lines are fine and precise to maintain the textured look.
Detailing the Axe Head:
Base Texturing: With Mournfang Brown, create scribbly, textured marks on the flat of the axe head, focusing on creating a light to dark modulation from one edge to the other.
Enhancing Texture: Progress through Balor Brown and XV-88, adding finer, more controlled highlights to build up the texture. These should be more focused and less extensive than the base texture, adding depth and interest to the surface.
Final Highlights: Use Ice Yellow and Pale Grey Blue for the final highlights, paying particular attention to areas like the skull and the circle on the axe head. These colours should only be applied to the blade for differentiation, so don’t go too crazy with them, adding a cool tone to contrast with the warmer body of the axe head.
Finishing Touches:
Neatening Edges: Go back and tidy up any overspill or overly broad lines with the base colours, ensuring the texture remains coherent and the contrasts sharp.
Evaluation: Step back and review the entire piece, making any necessary adjustments to ensure the NMM effect is convincing and the textures and contrasts work together harmoniously.
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This video shows how to paint Dante’s axe NMM. This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result!
Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM
Materials and Paints Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Baharroth Blue
Rhinox Hide
Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Paints:
Ice Yellow
Neutral Grey
German Grey
Kimera Colours Paint:
Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange)
Materials
Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe.
Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine
Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe.
Step 1: Preparing the Axe
Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide.
Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights.
Step 2: Base Painting
Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer.
Base Colours:
For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo).
For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom.
Step 3: Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom.
Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom.
Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection.
Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality.
Step 4: Refining the Metallic Look
Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade.
Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas.
Step 5: Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look.
Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights.
Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights.
Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact.
Now, you’re all set to bring Dante’s axe to life with a stunning NMM effect that mimics the intricate play of light on metal surfaces! While you are here, check out more NMM tutorials to try.
More NMM Tutorials
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A series looking at how to paint Commander Dante, which was sent to me for early review purposes by Games Workshop. The model is being painted to a high standard and will be covered in large amounts of NMM (Non Metallic Metal)
Quick Jump To:
Materials and Paints Needed for the NMMVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part OneVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part TwoVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part ThreeSteps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMMBase LayerDeveloping Mid-TonesRefining HighlightsEnhancing BrightnessDeepening ShadowsFinal Highlights and Sharp DetailsGlazing and SmoothingClean UpTips for Success:Video – NMM Axe (First Version)Materials NeededStepsTipsVideo – NMM Axe (Second Version)Materials and Paints UsedPreparing the AxeBase PaintingSky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueRefining the Metallic LookEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo – Head, Eyes, Blood GemMaterials and Paints Needed:Steps for Commander Dantes Head and DetailsVideo – Red Shoulder NMMPaints NeededStepsTips
Materials and Paints Needed for the NMM
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for precise work on NMM effects.
Black Primer: To create a solid base for your colours.
Palette: For mixing your paints and achieving the right consistency.
Paints:
Base and Mid-Tones: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown (Games Workshop)
Highlights: Ice Yellow (Vallejo; you can substitute with Dorn Yellow from GW), Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow (Games Workshop)
Shadows and Deep Recesses: Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Final Highlights and Sharp Details: Morrow White (P3; any high-quality white paint will suffice)
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Two
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Three
Steps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMM
Base Layer
Paint: Mournfang BrownApplication: Apply Mournfang Brown as a base layer over the areas you intend to paint gold. This forms a foundational layer that aids in building depth.
Developing Mid-Tones
Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownApplication: Begin layering XV-88 over the Mournfang Brown base, focusing on raised areas. Then, use Balor Brown to start defining the mid-tones, enhancing the dimensional appearance.
Refining Highlights
Paints: Mix of Balor Brown and Ice YellowApplication: Create a lighter shade by mixing Balor Brown with a small amount of Ice Yellow. Apply this mixture to the highest points of the highlighted areas, where light naturally catches more intensely.
Enhancing Brightness
Paints: Ice Yellow, Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz YellowApplication: Gradually add brighter highlights using these colours. Focus on areas where light would hit the strongest, such as edges and prominent features.
Deepening Shadows
Paint: Rhinox HideApplication: Use Rhinox Hide to deepen the shadows and add contrast. Apply it in recessed areas and where different parts of the model meet, to give more definition and depth.
Final Highlights and Sharp Details
Paint: Morrow WhiteApplication: Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights and sharp details, accentuating the most raised edges where the light would be most intense.
Glazing and Smoothing
Technique: GlazingApplication: If necessary, use glazing with the lighter colours to smooth out transitions between highlights and mid-tones, ensuring a more natural progression of colour.
Clean Up
Action: Tidy any overspill or mistakes with appropriate base colours. This step is crucial for a neat and professional finish.
Tips for Success:
Consistency is Key: Maintain the right paint consistency. For NMM, a slightly thicker mix can be preferable for vibrant colours, but it should still flow smoothly.Consider Lighting: Always consider the overall lighting and direction of your model. Your highlights should consistently reflect this light source.Brush Care: Look after your brushes. Use a separate brush for mixing paints to maintain the fine tips of your detail brushes.Patience Pays Off: Allow each layer to dry thoroughly before proceeding to the next. NMM is a technique that benefits greatly from patience and careful layering.
Video – NMM Axe (First Version)
Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps
Initial Blocking In:
Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM.
Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes.
Lightening the Blue-Green Mix:
Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle.
Painting the Upper and Lower Sections:
Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights.
For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide.
Creating Specular Highlights:
Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges.
Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM.
Adding Lightning Effect:
Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects.
Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe.
Glazing and Smoothing:
Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights.
Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment.
Final Touches:
Refine the edges and any rough areas.
If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism.
Tips
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints.
Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes.
Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement.
Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next.
Video – NMM Axe (Second Version)
This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result! You can use whichever you prefer.
Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM (V2)
Materials and Paints Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Baharroth Blue
Rhinox Hide
Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Paints:
Ice Yellow
Neutral Grey
German Grey
Kimera Colours Paint:
Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange)
Materials
Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe.
Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine
Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe.
Preparing the Axe
Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide.
Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights.
Base Painting
Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer.
Base Colours:
For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo).
For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom.
Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom.
Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom.
Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection.
Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality.
Refining the Metallic Look
Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade.
Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas.
Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look.
Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights.
Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights.
Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact.
Video – Head, Eyes, Blood Gem
Materials and Paints Needed:
Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems.
Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas.
Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints.
For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop)
Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3)
Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Details
Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue.
Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance.
Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look.
Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold.
Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left.
Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection.
Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature.
Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look.
Video – Red Shoulder NMM
Paints Needed
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black
Steps
Base and Mapping:
Start with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black to map out where the shiny parts will be.
Apply this mix to create the initial shape of the reflection on the shoulder pad.
Building Layers:
Use gradually lighter mixes of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet, adding Ice Yellow for the lighter tones.
Focus on smooth layering to build up the red tones, paying attention to how light naturally reflects on a curved surface.
Defining the Shine:
For the brightest shine spot, use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Ice Yellow from Games Workshop.
Apply these colours carefully to create a realistic reflection effect.
Painting the Gold Trim:
Start with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide for darker areas.
Progressively mix in Trollslayer Orange and Ice Yellow for brighter sections.
Ensure a smooth transition between the red of the shoulder pad and the gold trim to maintain a cohesive look.
Adding Additional Reflections:
Insert additional shine spots in both the red and gold areas for more depth and realism.
Use stippling techniques to create a diffused yet shiny highlight on the brightest parts.
Be mindful of the shape and direction of these additional reflections to maintain consistency with the light source.
Final Touches:
Use a mix of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for the final glazes to enhance the vibrancy of the red.
Add final highlights with the lightest mix of Ice Yellow and white for the brightest points.
Refinement:
Go back and refine any areas as needed, especially the transitions between highlights and shadows.
Add intricate details such as reflected light on the gold trim to enhance the NMM effect.
Tips
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint-to-water ratio to around 60% water for smoother application and finish.
Reflection Logic: Consider the shape of the shoulder pad and how light interacts with it. Use a lamp to guide your reflection placement.
Edge Highlights: Be careful with edge highlights; ensure they are consistent with the overall light reflection and texture of the surface.
Patience and Layers: Build up the layers gradually for a smooth transition. This is crucial for achieving a realistic NMM effect.
Stippling Technique: Use stippling in the brightest areas to create a diffused highlight, adding depth and realism.
Harmonizing Colours: Ensure the reds and golds complement each other, keeping the overall look cohesive.
Reflective Details: Consider adding subtle reflective details in surrounding areas, like reflected red light on nearby silver parts, to enhance realism.
Rest and Review: Sometimes stepping away from the model and returning with fresh eyes can help spot areas needing refinement or a different approach.
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This video shows how to paint the Cities of Death Arch Knight from the Freeguild Command Corps. The colours are selected to achieve an aquatic feel to match the style of the armour and are painted using NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) The set was sent to me for review by Games Workshop.
How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Sotek Green Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Heavy Blackgreen P3: Morrow White
Top Tips on How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight
Choosing the Axe: If you prefer the look of the axe over the hammer, go for it. The lack of specific details on the axe allows for creative freedom in painting a fancy cutting blade.
Colour Scheme: Opt for a green, blue, and turquoise colour scheme to complement the fish theme. Use paints like Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and Vallejo Heavy Blackgreen for reflections.
Mapping Highlights with Vallejo Neutral Grey: Begin by mapping out highlight points using Vallejo Neutral Grey. This will serve as a base for the non-metallic metal style.
Blocking In: Use a larger brush initially, like a size 3, for quick blocking of colours. This helps cover large areas efficiently, but be aware it may result in a more translucent finish.
Layering Colours for Non-Metallic Effect: Layer Sotek Green mixed with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for the non-metallic effect. Adjust the mix for a gradual transition and blend as needed.
Reflective Surfaces and Angles: Consider the angles and reflective surfaces carefully. Downward-facing parts should reflect the chosen colours, but keep in mind the realism of the light source and its impact on reflections.
Focus on Head, Chest, and Shoulder Area: Concentrate on painting the head, chest, and shoulder areas. This not only emphasises the most interesting parts of the model but also guides the viewer’s attention.
Highlighting Techniques: Use careful brush marks for highlights, especially on intricate shapes like the fish helmet. Sharp, harsh brush marks can create a textured and reflective surface.
Balancing Reflections and Colours: Strike a balance between the upward-facing and downward-facing reflections. Consider the colour wheel for harmonious combinations, avoiding overly contrasting colours.
Refining and Detailing: The refining phase is crucial. Continuously refine and add details to elevate the model’s overall finish. This process can take the model from a basic finish to a Golden Demon standard with dedication.
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Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads
Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger
Preparation:
Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set.
Prime the model with black primer.
Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!)
Helmet Painting:
Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet.
Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls.
Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering.
Metal Painting:
Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects.
Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone.
Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture.
Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas.
Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections.
Leather Parts:
Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide.
Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look.
Highlighting:
Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks.
For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference.
Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast.
For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core.
Skin Painting:
Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown.
Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white.
Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather.
Final Details:
Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look.
Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect.
Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect.
Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions.
Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting!
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This full video shows how to paint an Alchemite Warforger from the Cites of Sigmar, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.This guide will cover various techniques such as non-metallic metal effects (NMM), leather texture, and object source lighting (OSL).
How to paint an Alchemite Warforger Video
You’ll Need:
Alchemite Warforger.
A range of brushes (including a size 3 Artist Opus M brush).
Paints from Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone.
Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral Grey.
P3 paint: Morrow White.
Mininatur Spring Moss Pads for basing.
Let’s Get Started:
Base Coating: Initiate with a base layer of XV-88. This creates an ideal foundation for both gold and bronze non-metallic metal (NMM) effects. Apply these base colours in a relaxed manner; perfection isn’t the goal at this stage.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Bronze/Gold: Use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and a touch of Rhinox Hide. Mix these colours in various ratios to achieve the desired NMM effect.
Leather Textures: For the leather apron and straps, start with a base of Rhinox Hide. Then, build up the texture and highlights with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone, adding Morghast Bone for the lighter areas.
Skin Tones: Begin with Mournfang Brown as the base for the skin. Gradually layer up the skin tones using a mix of Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone, finishing with lighter highlights.
Object Source Lighting (OSL): For the glowing effects, such as the pot’s contents, start with Mephiston Red and build up to Yriel Yellow and Wild Rider Red for the intense glow.
Detailing: Use Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide for the cooler tones, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow and Neutral Grey for the metallic areas. German Grey can be used for darker shadows.
Finishing Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest highlights and final touches. The base can be detailed with Mininatur Spring Moss Pads to add a natural touch.
Remember, painting is about building up layers and textures, so take your time and enjoy the process. Each layer adds depth and character to your Alchemite Warforger.
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This video looks more at the head of Commander Dante and shows his Eyes, and Blood Drop as well as more NMM Gold of the face. Commander Dante is being painted as a Golden Demon entry.
Video Tutorial: Commander Dante Head and Details
Materials and Paints Needed:
Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems.
Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas.
Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints.
Paints:
For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop)
Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3)
Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Detail:
Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue.
Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance.
Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look.
Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold.
Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left.
Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection.
Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature.
Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look.
Continue Painting Commander Dante!
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This video shows how to paint the Dante’s axe using NMM or SENMM (Sky Earth Non Metallic Metal.) The video also covers some of the challenges of painting in hot weather!
Materials Needed:
Paints:
Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps:
Initial Blocking In:
Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM.
Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes.
Lightening the Blue-Green Mix:
Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle.
Painting the Upper and Lower Sections:
Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights.
For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide.
Creating Specular Highlights:
Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges.
Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM.
Adding Lightning Effect:
Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects.
Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe.
Glazing and Smoothing:
Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights.
Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment.
Final Touches:
Refine the edges and any rough areas.
If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism.
Tips:
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints.
Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes.
Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement.
Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next.
Now, you’re all set to bring Dante’s axe to life with a stunning NMM effect that mimics the intricate play of light on metal surfaces!
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How to Paint a Vampire Lord from the Soulblight Gravelord Armies! This includes NMM shiny steel armour, face and hair, skeleton base tutorial plus a dripping gore-covered mace! Read on to watch the comprehensive set of How to Paint a Vampire Lord tutorials plus key steps, paints and materials guide.
Quick Jump to:
Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel ArmourPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ArmourVideo – How to Paint a Vampire NMM ShieldPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ShieldVideo – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added GorePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory MaceVideo – Vampire Lord Face and HairPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and HairVideo – Skeleton Base Part OnePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton BaseBuilding the BasePainting the BaseFinishing TouchesVideo – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)Paints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton BasePainting the SkeletonPainting the SwordPainting the ClothAdding VegetationVideo – Simple Freehand DragonPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon
Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Paints and Materials
Paints:
Vallejo Neutral Grey: Used for mapping out highlights and base tones on the armour.
Vallejo Ice Yellow: Applied for initial highlights, gives a warm, off-white effect.
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown: Used sparingly for adding depth and richness in transitions.
Games Workshop Abaddon Black: Thinned down and used for glazing to deepen shadows and smooth transitions.
P3 Morrow White: For final bright highlights. Thinned down considerably for a subtle effect.
Brushes:
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and for the stippling technique. I used the Artis Opus range, but any high-quality fine brush will work.
Glazing Brushes: Preferably also with a fine tip, used for applying thinned down glazes of Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black.
Primer:
Ultimate Primer (Black): Used for priming the model before painting.
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Armour
Preparation: Assemble the model but avoid gluing areas like the shield or head that might obstruct painting. Prime the model in black. For this, Ultimate Primer is a good choice.
Base Layer: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey to map out highlight points on the armour. This colour is ideal for desaturated, steel-like effects.
Light Direction and Armour Detailing: Consider the light source and how it hits the model. Focus on areas like the hip covers and rib cage, and map out light and reflections. The Neutral Grey will be useful for creating the base tones.
Initial Highlights: Apply Vallejo Ice Yellow for the highlights. Despite its name, Ice Yellow will give a desaturated, warm white appearance, especially when applied thinly. This is perfect for adding a subtle warmth to the steel.
Refining the Highlights: Use a stippling technique with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, building up the texture and refining the highlights. Remember, this is a gradual process, and patience is key.
Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown: Introduce Games Workshop Mournfang Brown sparingly at transition edges or darker areas for a richer tone. Be cautious not to overdo it, as too much brown can detract from the steel effect.
Glazing for Smoothness: Thin down Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black with water (about 5-6 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply them as glazes. This step will help in smoothing out transitions and adding depth.
Final Highlights with Morrow White: Use P3 Morrow White for final bright highlights. Ensure the white is thinned down and apply it very carefully to the highest points of the armour.Adjusting and Blending: Keep adjusting the highlights and shadows, blending the colours where necessary. This might involve going back and forth between the different shades to achieve a smooth transition.Finish and Review: Once satisfied, review the model under different lighting to ensure the non-metallic metal effect is consistent and realistic.
Throughout this process, keep your paint thin and apply multiple layers for the best results. The key to NMM is patience and gradual building of layers. Remember, each step contributes to the overall metallic effect, so take your time and enjoy the process!
Video – How to Paint a Vampire NMM Shield
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Mephiston Red, Balor BrownVallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice YellowP3: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Shield
Priming and Preparation: The shield should be primed black. The use of Ultramar Varnish is optional.
Base Layering: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey, using scribbly strokes to create a rough and scratchy base.Add a darker grey mixture by blending Neutral Grey with Abaddon Black. This can be substituted with other dark greys like Vallejo German Grey.
Creating Texture: Continue with Neutral Grey, making irregular, scratchy marks. These marks will contribute to a subtle textured look.Focus on building up layers and refining the texture.
Highlighting:Apply a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for initial highlights.Move to Ice Yellow, applying it thinly (1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to avoid a chalky finish.Apply the Ice Yellow in a stippling manner to refine the highlights and cover uneven areas.Painting the Dragon:Base the dragon with Mephiston Red.Create shadows by adding a small amount of Abaddon Black to Mephiston Red.For highlights, mix Mephiston Red with P3 Morrow White (or another white) and apply to raised areas and facets of the dragonGlazing and Refining: Use a heavily diluted mixture of Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, and P3 Morrow White for glazing.Apply the Mournfang Brown for a soft yellow-brown hue in certain areas.Use Abaddon Black to darken and dull areas and to create shadows.Use P3 Morrow White to soften and blend the highlighted areas.
Adding Scratches and Imperfections:Add random scratch-like marks using a very light application for realism.Apply small white dots to suggest nicks and imperfections.
Final Highlights and Adjustments:Go over the shield and dragon, adding final highlights and making adjustments as necessary.Focus on achieving a balanced look from different viewing angles.
Painting the Trim: Paint the trim using a mix of Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red as a base.Layer with Balor Brown, and then add highlights with a mix of Balor Brown and Mournfang Brown.Add final edge highlights and details to match the overall lighting and contrast of the shield.Finishing Touches:
Tidy up any rough edges or over-painted areas.Ensure that the shield’s various sections harmonize in terms of light and contrast.Remember to let each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next, and adjust the thickness of your paints with water to maintain control and avoid a textured buildup.
Video – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added Gore
Paints and Materials
Primer: Black
Paints:
Vallejo Neutral Grey
Vallejo Black
Vallejo Basalt Grey
Vallejo German Grey
Games Workshop Rhinox Hide
Games Workshop Blood for the Blood God
P3 Morrow White
Brushes: Fine detail brushes
Additional: Gloss varnish, super glue, fishing wire for gore effect
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory Mace
Priming: The mace should be primed in black.
Base Layering:
Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey. This can be created with a mix of black and white.
Use Pearl Grey Blue for slight colour variation, though this is optional.
German Grey can also be added to the mix.
Highlighting and Texture:
Focus on picking out angles and curves on the mace.
Ensure brighter parts on surfaces facing you, with darker shades on less visible parts.
Use a combination of different greys to build up layers and create a realistic metal effect.
Detailing:
Pay attention to the many facets of the mace, including chamfered edges and curves.
Use fine brushes for precision in highlighting these small, detailed areas.
Glazing:
Mix Rhinox Hide with a significant amount of water for a thin glaze.
Apply this to mid-tones to shadows, avoiding the brightest highlights.
This step enhances contrast and adds a hint of colour to the mace.
Adding the Gore Effect:
Attach thin strands of fishing wire to the mace using super glue to create dangling gore.
Apply gloss varnish to the connection points for added strength and flexibility.
Once the varnish is dry, cover the fishing wire with “Blood for the Blood God” paint.
Ensure the gore effect is applied in a realistic manner, considering where blood would naturally accumulate and drip from the mace.
Final Touches:
Revisit any areas that need refining or additional highlights.
Make sure the gore effect blends seamlessly with the painted mace.
Allow all layers to dry completely before handling.
Tips:
Take your time with each facet of the mace; precision is key to a realistic look.
Ensure your paint consistency is right for each step – thinner for glazing, thicker for opaquer details.
Be cautious when applying the gore effect; it’s a focal point but shouldn’t overwhelm the detailed painting beneath.
Video – Vampire Lord Face and Hair
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Calgar Blue, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, Mephiston RedVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and Hair
Painting the Face:Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Calgar Blue over the black primer. Expect poor coverage initially. Thin the paint with approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint. Apply 3-4 layers to achieve an opaque finish.
Highlighting: Create a mix of 50/50 Calgar Blue and Cadian Fleshtone. Apply this mix to specific areas of the face, considering the natural light fall. Key areas include the forehead, cheekbones, and areas between the eyes and nose. This mix will start to give a flesh tone, retaining a hint of blue for the undead look.
Further Detailing: Use Cadian Fleshtone and a mix of 50/50 Ushabti Bone and Cadian Fleshtone for additional highlighting. Focus on raised areas and consider how light interacts with facial features. Apply highlights gradually, using a heavily diluted mix for soft transitions.
Eyes and Mouth: Paint the eyes and the inside of the mouth in black. This step ensures these areas are defined and helps balance the highlights on the face.
Painting the Hair:Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey from Vallejo over the black primer. Switch to Khorne Red for a vibrant, contrasting colour to the skin. Thin the paint slightly and apply multiple coats for an even, opaque finish.
Highlighting: Use Ushabti Bone to highlight the hair. Mix it with Khorne Red in varying proportions, increasing the Ushabti Bone content for brighter highlights. Focus on areas where light would naturally hit, creating a shiny, luxurious look.
Glazing for Colour Depth: After highlighting, the hair may appear too desaturated. To bring back the richness of the red, glaze over the hair with a heavily diluted Mephiston Red. This step enhances the red colour while maintaining the shine.
Final Touches on Hair: Optionally, add Abaddon Black to the corn red to create darker shades in the hair, increasing the depth and contrast.
Video – Skeleton Base Part One
Paints and Materials
A skeleton figure from Warhammer Underworlds Warbands
Milliput and Fimo (or slate pieces)
Green stuff (50/50 mix of blue and yellow)
Super glue
Sand (variety in particle size, not sharp sand)
PVA glue (diluted with water)
Base brush (flat Games Workshop brush or equivalent)
Neutral Grey (Vallejo), Deathworld Forest, Morghast Bone, Agrax Earthshade, Athonian Camoshade, Astronomicon Grey (Games Workshop)
Water for thinning paints
Rock material guide by the fantastic Julien Casses:https://www.juliencasses.com/2012/11/how-to-make-rocks
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton Base
Building the Base
Prepare Skeleton: Start by preparing your skeleton figure, ensuring it has a ‘rising from the ground’ appearance.
Create Stone Slabs: Mix Milliput and Fimo, bake at 120°C for 30 minutes, then break into slabs to represent stones. Alternatively, use slate pieces. Attach these slabs to the base with super glue.
Apply Green Stuff: Mix blue and yellow Green Stuff and use it to create a ridge around the skeleton, giving the illusion of a hole from which the skeleton emerges. Embed the Vampire Lord’s rock into the Green Stuff to integrate it with the base.
Add Texture: Sculpt some small, round rocks using Green Stuff for added detail.
Sand Application: Cover the base in beach sand, avoiding sharp sand. Use various particle sizes for a natural look.
Painting the Base
Seal Sand: Brush diluted PVA glue over the sand to seal it and prevent flaking.
Base Colour for Sand: Dry brush the entire base with Deathworld Forest, focusing on sandy areas.
Highlighting Sand: Apply a lighter dry brush of Morghast Bone to the sand for highlights.
Defining Rocks: Use Agrax Earthshade as a thick glaze around the sculpted rocks to define their shapes.
Enhancing Greenery: Apply Athonian Camoshade to enhance the green tones on the base.
Rock Painting: Begin detailed painting on rocks using Neutral Grey. Focus on highlighting angles and adding scratchy details for texture.
Additional Rock Highlights: Use Pelgrave Blue, potentially mixed with white, to highlight rocks further. Remember not to overpower the model with the base’s contrast.
Enhancing Edges: Add lighter edges around rocks using Astronomicon Grey to define shapes.
Finishing Touches
Consider adding other details like small flowers or greenery to the base.
Reflect these colours onto the Vampire Lord for cohesion.
Ensure the base matches the quality and style of your painted model.
Video – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)
Paints and Materials
Paints: XV-88, Balor Brown, Moot Green, Deathworld Forest, Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop); Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black (Vallejo); Iosen Green, Morrow White (P3)
Mininatur Moss Pads and Flowers
Water for thinning paints
Brushes with fine tips
PVA Glue
Jeweler’s tweezers
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton Base
Painting the Skeleton
Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with white paint, thinned down. Apply 2-3 layers for an opaque finish. Avoid overloading to prevent the paint from pooling.
Adding Color to Eyes: Use Pro Acryl Golden Yellow (or any similar yellow) around the edges of the eye sockets, leaving the back white to mimic a light source. Then, use Moot Green, thinned down, around the yellow, ensuring smooth transitions.
Skeleton Bone: Use XV-88 to paint the skull and bones. Apply the paint thinly and unevenly to create a natural, weathered look. Emphasize areas where light would naturally hit, based on the light source direction.
Highlighting Bone: Apply Ushabti Bone for highlights, focusing on raised areas and edges. Keep the paint thin for a smooth finish.
Additional Details: Add small scratches or battle damage marks for realism.
Final Highlights on Bone: Use white (Morrow White) for the final highlights on the most raised areas.
Painting the Sword
Base Colour: Use Neutral Grey to paint the entire sword, including the hilt and blade.
Weathering: Add Mournfang Brown to the blade for a rust effect, focusing on recessed areas and pitted holes.
Highlighting the Blade: Use Pale Grey Blue for highlighting and adding scratchy details, focusing on areas that would catch light.
Rust Details: Add Trollslayer Orange in the deepest recesses for an inverted highlight effect.
Refining Highlights: Go back with Neutral Grey and Pale Grey Blue to refine the highlights and add more detail to the weathered look.
Painting the Cloth
Base Layer: Apply Deathworld Forest over black primer, focusing on raised folds and areas that would catch light.
Highlighting: Use Balor Brown for further highlights, keeping the paint very thin to maintain a dark, grubby appearance.
Adding Vegetation
Applying Moss Pads: Use PVA glue to attach Mininatur Moss Pads around the base. Utilize jeweler’s tweezers for precise placement.
Adding Flowers: Integrate white flowers from Mininatur for additional detail. Trim if necessary to avoid overpowering the base.
Adding Roots: For an emerging effect, glue small roots around the skeleton, bending them to create a natural look.
Dry Brushing: Gently dry brush Balor Brown over the moss pads to integrate them with the base and add depth.
Video – Simple Freehand Dragon
Paints and Materials
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon
Prepare the Surface: Begin by roughly painting the inside of the shield with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide from Games Workshop. These paints should be heavily thinned with approximately two parts water to one part paint. Use a large brush, like a size 2 artist opus brush, for quick and broad coverage. This base coat doesn’t need to perfectly match the shield’s front colour, as it will largely be covered.
Apply Texture: The texture on the back of the shield differs from the front to differentiate it from the armor. Apply the paint in a scratchy manner to simulate wear and tear. For this, use Neutral Grey from Vallejo, mixed with Ice Yellow for highlights, and German Grey for darker areas. Remember, this part doesn’t have to be perfectly blended, as some roughness adds character.
Glazing: If needed, glaze over the scratchy texture with more diluted Rhinox Hide and German Grey. Glazing helps to soften the texture and can hide any imperfections in the painting.
Freehanding the Dragon: When painting the dragon, start with a reference photo of the dragon design on the shield’s front. This helps maintain consistency across the model. Use Vallejo Model Color Black for the dragon outline, ensuring the paint is well-diluted for fine lines.
Brush Selection: Use a fine brush for detailed work. A worn-out brush might not give the sharp lines needed for intricate details. A newer, sharper brush is recommended for finer details and corrections.
Highlighting the Dragon: Start with Neutral Grey for initial highlights. For more pronounced highlights, mix Neutral Grey with Ice Yellow, leaning more towards Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Apply these highlights only to the upper edges of the dragon design, where light would naturally catch.
Adjusting for 3D Effect: Paint the inside of the dragon with a darker grey, such as a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey, to create depth and avoid a flat black appearance.
Final Touches: Add fine highlights to the dragon, especially along the edges and raised areas, to enhance the 3D effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow for the brightest points. Be mindful of the shield’s orientation to ensure that highlights correspond to the light source.
Painting the Shield Trim: Finally, paint the shield’s trim, likely in a gold or metal colour. This trim frames the dragon and gives a polished look to the shield, enhancing the overall appearance.
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A series for how to paint an Askurgan Exemplar from the Warcry Bloodhunt box, who I painted as part of my Commended Golden Demon Entry for 2023. Because it’s a Demon entry, the techniques will be very in-depth and very precise!In these videos you will learn how to paint his undead skin, red robes and rope, NMM metals on his weapon and armour, horn effect on his trophy rack and lots of other little tips and tricks. Read on to explore them along with paints, materials and step by step help.
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part One: Face, Arm and ShoulderMaterials and PaintsPainting the SkinNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) on ArmourAdditional TipsHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part Two: Red Robes, Hair and RopeMaterials and PaintsPainting Red RobesTechnique and BrushworkPainting HairPainting the RopeNon-Metallic Metal Effect on CollarOther TipsHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 3: Sword Blade, Gold Sword Hilt and Hip ArmourMaterials and PaintsBase CoatingPainting the RopeHip ArmourSword Blade and HandleDetailing and Finishing TouchesEdge Highlighting and RefinementHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 4: Trophy Rack and HornsMaterials and PaintsTrophy Rack Horns How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 5: NMM SwordPaints and Materials RequiredBase Coat and HighlightingBlade Edge DetailingFlat Blade SurfaceReflections and HighlightsEdge HighlightsRefining and Adjusting HighlightsFinal TouchesHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Dirt On His RobePreparing to PaintAdding Depth with Mournfang BrownFinishing Touches with Balor BrownGeneral Tips for an Authentic EffectMore Undead and Vampire Tutorials to Explore!
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part One: Face, Arm and Shoulder
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints
Paints: Games Workshop (Sotek Green, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet), Vallejo (Toxic Yellow, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black), Two Thin Coats (Dark Sun Yellow – optional)
White Paint: Schmincke White
Brushes: Size 00 and other fine brushes for detailed work
Painting the Skin
Base Colour: Mix Sotek Green with Cadian Fleshtone for a warm, turquoise green. This will be your base colour for the skin, providing a unique look while not being too dark.
Building Highlights: Progressively lighten this mixture by adding more Kislev Flesh, and Toxic Yellow from Vallejo for higher highlights. The aim is to create a series of progressively lighter shades, leading up to a final mix of Toxic Yellow, Kislev Flesh, and Schmincke White for the brightest highlights.
Application Technique: Use a very thin consistency (about 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint). Apply with a size 00 brush, focusing on upwards-facing surfaces and muscles for a natural look. Remember, the key is to layer thinly and build up the colour gradually.
Detailing the Face: For the vampire’s face, focus on defining sharp features while maintaining a natural appearance. Use the lightest colour mix for the highest points like the brow ridges and cheekbones. The eyes are painted black with Yriel Yellow for the irises, positioned such that the upper eyelid slightly covers the iris.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) on Armour
Chest Armour: Begin with a base of Mournfang Brown. For highlighting, use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, progressively adding more Ice Yellow for brighter areas. Paint the armour’s detailed features like fangs and textures with care, incrementally building up to white for the highest highlights.
Shoulder Armour: Start with Neutral Grey, building up highlights towards the top where the light naturally hits. Add reflections and finer details, creating a smooth transition from light to dark. Use Mournfang Brown, thinned down, for adding tonal variation and depth.
Gold Details: Utilise a combination of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow (or Balor Brown) for the base of gold areas. Highlight with Ice Yellow, and for the brightest spots, use a mix of Ice Yellow and Schmincke White. Be sure to maintain the gold’s richness by not over-highlighting with white, thus keeping the metallic effect.
Additional Tips
Glazing: Use glazes (thin, transparent layers of paint) to smooth out transitions between colours, especially on the gold and armour sections.
Edge Highlighting: On the armour, especially the shoulder guards, use edge highlighting to define shapes and enhance the metallic appearance.
Reflections and Light Sources: Be mindful of the environment’s impact on reflections. Vary the reflections on different parts of the armour to create a more dynamic and realistic look.
Detailing and Textures: Pay attention to the texture of each surface. For instance, the vampire’s skin should have a smooth finish, while the armour can have a more textured appearance.
Consistency Across the Unit: If this model is part of a unit, ensure consistency in the painting style and colour scheme across all models, while allowing for individual variations. One of the reasons I believe I missed out on a trophy with my vampires is because I made them all much too unique and they didn’t look like they were part of the group. Cohesion and lore accuracy is very important for Golden Demon! I talk about this a bit more in my Golden Demon 2023 video, here. Anyway, sorry, back to the model..!
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part Two: Red Robes, Hair and Rope
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints
Games Workshop Colours:Rhinox Hide: A deep brown, used as a base for the red robes.Mournfang Brown: Utilized in creating non-metallic gold effects and for darkening rope.Mephiston Red: Employed to enrich the red highlights.Evil Sunz Scarlet: A vibrant red for brighter highlights.Wild Rider Red: Used very sparingly for the highest red highlights.Balor Brown: Mixed with other colors for non-metallic gold effects.Karak Stone: The base for the rope.Skeleton Horde (Contrast): Applied for shading and depth on the rope.
Vallejo Colours:Toxic Yellow: Mixed for non-metallic gold effects and for rope detailing.Ice Yellow: Used in similar contexts as Toxic Yellow.Neutral Grey: A base for light grey hair and for mixing higher highlights.German Grey: Mixed with Neutral Grey for hair.Black: Used for various detailing and mixing.
Other Materials:Schmincke White: An artist’s acrylic paint used for the highest highlights, particularly in the hair.
Painting Red Robes
Base Coat: Start with Rhinox Hide. Despite its brown tone, it’s essentially a deep red. Apply this as a base for the robe.
First Highlight: Mix Rhinox Hide with Mephiston Red. This creates a richer, warmer red. Apply with a size 2 brush for broad strokes.
Subsequent Highlights: Progressively lighten the red using Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red. Be cautious with Wild Rider Red, using it sparingly to maintain the robe’s red saturation.
Technique and Brushwork
Use a larger brush for the broader areas of the robe to achieve smooth, clean strokes.
For finer areas, switch to a smaller brush for precise application and to highlight raised details and creases.
Painting Hair
Initially, aim for shiny black hair, but later shift to a light grey, matte finish.
Use Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights, painting in the direction of the hair’s texture.
Be mindful of the hairline; avoid a stark contrast between the skin and hair. Aim for a subtle shadow effect.
Painting the Rope
Base coat the rope with Karak Stone.
Use a larger brush to cover the area efficiently.
Apply Skeleton Horde contrast paint for shading and depth.
For texture, add tiny lines with a mix of Karak Stone and white, representing the rope’s fibres.
Non-Metallic Metal Effect on Collar
This segment is challenging due to its intricate texture.
Use a mix of Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Toxic Yellow, and Ice Yellow to create a gold effect.
Add white for the brightest highlights, focusing on the collar’s embossed details.
Other Tips
Throughout the process, maintain a balance between boldness and subtlety. The goal is to accentuate the model’s features without overwhelming its overall appearance. Key points to remember:
Layering and Blending: The layering technique is crucial, especially for the red robes. Begin with dark tones and gradually build up to lighter hues, ensuring a seamless transition.
Directional Brushwork: Align your brush strokes with the texture and direction of the materials you are painting, whether it’s the flow of the robes or the strands of hair. This approach enhances realism.
Contrast and Focal Points: High contrast areas, like the non-metallic metal collar, should be approached with caution. Ensure they complement, rather than overpower, the focal points like the face.
Texture and Detailing: The rope’s texture is a time-consuming but rewarding aspect. Those fine lines, while tedious, add a significant level of detail to the model.
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 3: Sword Blade, Gold Sword Hilt and Hip Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints
Games Workshop Colours:
Rhinox Hide: A deep, dark brown, used for shading and creating gradients on elements like the rope and as a base for other colours.
Mournfang Brown: Employed in non-metallic metal effects and to add depth to certain elements.
Mephiston Red: A bright red, used for adding vivid highlights and details.
Balor Brown: Mixed with other colours for non-metallic gold effects.
Karak Stone: Used as a base colour for the rope.
Skeleton Horde (Contrast): Applied for shading and to add depth, especially on the rope.
Vallejo Colours:
Ice Yellow: Mixed for creating highlights and for non-metallic gold effects.
Neutral Grey: A base for grey tones and for mixing higher highlights.
German Grey: Used in conjunction with Neutral Grey for various details.
Black: Employed for shading and defining details.
Other Materials:
Schmincke White: An artist-grade acrylic paint used for the highest level of highlights.
Base Coating
Apply the base colours: Rhinox Hide for darker areas, Mournfang Brown for metallic parts, Karak Stone for the rope, and other base colours as required for different parts.
Painting the Rope
Apply Karak Stone as the base colour.
Shade with Skeleton Horde (Contrast) to add depth.
For weathering effects, use Rhinox Hide in a glaze consistency (about three parts water to one part paint) at the bottom of the rope.
Hip Armour
Paint the ropes in the armour with the same technique as the main rope.
For the armoured plates (that resemble bones), start with a metallic base using Mournfang Brown.
Create a non-metallic metal effect by gradually building up layers, transitioning to lighter colours like Balor Brown and then Ice Yellow. Include reflective highlights where light would naturally hit.
Sword Blade and Handle
For the sword blade, use Neutral Grey as a base, applying highlights where light would naturally reflect. Pay attention to any sculpted details like indents or edges, and enhance these with your highlights.
The sword hilt is treated similarly, with a non-metallic gold technique. Start with Mournfang Brown, adding highlights and transitioning to lighter tones like Ice Yellow and White.
For both the blade and hilt, remember to add glazes for smoother transitions.
Detailing and Finishing Touches
Enhance the gold sections (such as the bracelets and sword hilt) with Ice Yellow and White for bright highlights.
For small details like rings or intricate parts of the armour, use precise brush strokes. Highlight the top edges and create contrast with darker shades in recesses.
If necessary, use glazes (a thin mix of paint and water) to smooth out transitions and make the colours more cohesive.
Pay attention to the consistency of the paint. It should be thin enough to flow smoothly but not so thin that it loses opacity.
Edge Highlighting and Refinement
Carefully apply edge highlights to the armor and sword, using lighter colors like Ice Yellow or White. This step brings out the details and gives a more three-dimensional appearance.
For the sword blade, create the effect of light reflecting off the blade by adding thin lines and highlights. Remember to adjust the intensity based on the angle and curvature of the blade.
Use a mix of Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, and White to create the non-metallic metal effect, building up to the brightest highlights where the light would be strongest.
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 4: Trophy Rack and Horns
Materials and Paints
Brushes: Size 2 M Artist Opus, Size 0 and 00
Paints: Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Skeleton Horde (Contrast); Vallejo’s Ice Yellow, Dead White
Trophy Rack
Base Coat
Combine Rhinox Hide and Evil Sunz Scarlet in a 2:1 ratio
Thin the mixture with equal parts water for a smoother application
First Highlight
Add Balor Brown to the base mix for a subdued pink tone
Apply carefully, ensuring light effects align with the model’s other parts
Additional Highlights
Incrementally introduce more Balor Brown and a touch of Ice Yellow for brighter highlights
Utilise the larger brush for expansive areas, switching to finer brushes for detailed texturing
Detailing Filigree
Employ a slender brush for precision
Gently add lighter paint to intricate patterns, avoiding overly fluid paint
Horns
Begin with Ushabti Bone on a black base, requiring several layers for full coverage
Typically, four coats achieve a solid foundation
Gradients
Gradually mix in Rhinox Hide with Ushabti Bone for shading
Paint each segment, progressing towards the horn’s tip
Texture Highlights
Revert to Ushabti Bone for accentuating raised textures
Apply using small wiggles and dots, extending into less detailed areas
Horns – Finishing Touches
Apply a significantly diluted Rhinox Hide for softening transitions
Use Skeleton Horde Contrast for added depth and hue
Final Notes
Ensure uniform painting on all sides of the horns
Balance detailed work with broader strokes for a unified, realistic appearance
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 5: NMM Sword
This guide focuses on creating a realistic non-metallic metal (NMM) effect on a sword, employing careful layering and blending techniques to achieve a shiny appearance. Patience and attention to detail are key in this process.
Paints and Materials Required
Brushes: Various sizes for detailed work
Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, German Grey, Black; Games Workshop Mournfang Brown
Base Coat and Highlighting
Start with Neutral Grey as the base colour
Mix Neutral Grey with a small amount of Ice Yellow for the first stage highlight
Progressively add Ice Yellow to the mixture for brighter highlights
Use Ice Yellow with a touch of White for the brightest points
Thin the paints appropriately for smooth application
Blade Edge Detailing
Focus on parallel line textures for the cutting blade edge
Use horizontal and vertical strokes for diverse textural effects
Emphasize the sharpness of the blade with these line details
Flat Blade Surface
Change brush marks on the flat blade surface for distinction
Plan for coloured reflections, using Mournfang Brown as a glazing colour
Reflections and Highlights
Paint all reflections in grey tones before applying colour glazes
Remember that the lower edge of the blade will reflect the ground, requiring a different treatment
Use glazes to soften and blend reflections and highlights
Edge Highlights
Apply fine line highlights along the sharpest part of the blade
Ensure these highlights are thin and precise for a realistic effect
Refining and Adjusting Highlights
Adjust and refine highlights as needed for balance and symmetry
Use a mix of stippling and glazing techniques for smoother transitions
Pay attention to the spine of the sword, adjusting the placement and intensity of highlights
Final Touches
Use glazes to smooth out textures, especially when working with lighter colours
Consider the overall composition and aesthetic appeal when placing final highlights
Ensure a unified and realistic look by balancing light and shadow
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Dirt On His Robe
Paints Required
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown
Preparing to Paint
Begin with Rhinox Hide: Apply at the very bottom of the robe. This colour blends well with the red robe, creating a subtle effect. As you move upwards, make the application more visible with small dots and splotches. This creates an impression of staining.
Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown
Switch to Mournfang Brown: This shade gives depth to the weathering effect. Initially, it might seem light but it darkens as it dries. If you find it too strong, you can tone it down with Rhinox Hide to soften the effect. The key here is to balance the intensity, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the base colour of the robe.
Finishing Touches with Balor Brown
Finalise with Balor Brown: This is a strong colour, so apply it cautiously. It’s significantly different from the previous colours and can make a bold impact. Focus on the very bottom of the robe, gradually building up a denser application of paint. Be mindful of areas near the highlights, such as near the foot of the robe at the front. Here, you might need to add more Balor Brown to counteract the brighter red tones.
General Tips for an Authentic Effect
Strive for unevenness: Avoid symmetrical or uniform patterns. Some areas should appear dirtier than others for a realistic effect.
Control the paint consistency: Aim for a 50/50 mix of paint to water for optimal flow and control. This consistency allows you to work for an extended period without creating a heavy texture.
Use a smaller brush: A smaller brush gives you more control, especially for creating uneven, chaotic patterns. Avoid pressing too hard to prevent large, unintended marks.
Adjust for mistakes: If you apply too much paint, quickly rub it off with your finger. For smears, stipple over them with a bit of Rhinox Hide to create interesting marks.
More Undead and Vampire Tutorials to Explore!
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How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters, which was sent to me as an early review copy from Games Workshop. Currently this includes his face, horns and hair to his shining red armour and NMM gold trim.
You can watch the current tutorials in order by scrolling down, or quick jump to a specific technique, paints lists or tips by clicking on the options below:
Video Part One: How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters Armour, Horns, Eyes, HairPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo Part Two : Red ArmourPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo Part Three : Bronze Trim on the Armour (NMM)Paints and Materials UsedStep by Step Guide
Video Part One: How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters Armour, Horns, Eyes, Hair
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Used
Games Workshop: Barak-Nar Burgandy, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, XV-88, Balor Brown Vallejo: Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow optional) Two Thin Coats: White Star, Carcharodon Grey, Doomdeath Black
Brushes: Fine detail brushes, larger brushes for smooth transitions.
Palette: Wet palette recommended for paint mixing and consistency maintenance.
Step by Step Guide
1. Priming:
Prime the head using Ultimate Primer (black), thinned with airbrush thinner for a matte finish.
2. Armour (Red Parts):
Basecoat the helmet with Barak-Nar Burgundy, extending slightly onto the horns for a color transition.
Apply Mephiston Red over the burgundy for the true red areas. This serves as the key red tone.
For highlights, carefully apply Evil Sunz Scarlet, followed by Wild Rider Red, ensuring the Mephiston Red remains visible for a true red effect.
3. Horns:
Start with a dark mix of XV-88 and black, blending into the burgundy on the helmet.
Gradually lighten towards the tips using XV-88 with diminishing amounts of black.
Finish the tips with pure XV-88 and a touch of Morghast Bone, ensuring smooth transitions.
4. Eyes:
Base the eyes with Sotek Green.
Highlight with a mix of Sotek Green and White Star.
Add final highlights using pure White Star, placed strategically for a realistic lens effect.
5. Hair:
Begin with a base of Barak-Nar Burgundy.
Gradually mix in White Star for highlights, focusing on the upward-facing sections.
Aim for smooth transitions to mimic natural hair shine.
6. Metal Details:
Use a mix of Doomdeath Black and Carcharodon Grey for base and mid-tones.
Highlight with Carcharodon Grey and White Star.
Add red reflections from the armor using the red tones previously mentioned.
7. Teeth:
Use the grey mix (Carcharodon Grey with black, then pure Carcharodon Grey) for base and mid-tones.
Highlight the teeth with White Star, considering the light source for realistic placement.
8. Leather Strips (Topknot):
Base with Rhinox Hide.
Layer with Dwarf Skin and Elf Skin (or similar tones like Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone).
Glaze with thinned Mournfang Brown for added warmth.
Video Part Two : Red Armour
This video shows how to paint the red armour on the juggernaut of Khorne
Paints and Materials Used
The following paints were used: Vallejo Model Colour (new): Evil Red, Nocturnal Red Games Workshop: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red Two Thin Coats: White Star (Any white will do)
Step by Step Guide
1. Base Layer:
Begin by applying a base coat of Evil Red from Vallejo Model Colour. This hue is a dark burgundy or purple tone. It may necessitate several layers to achieve a consistent and opaque covering.
2. Initial Highlight:
Use Nocturnal Red from Vallejo Model Colour for the first layer of highlights. This shade is a deep and rich red, offering more vibrancy compared to Evil Red, thus setting the stage for subsequent highlighting.
3. Main Highlights:
Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet by Games Workshop for primary highlights. This brighter shade contrasts well with the darker base.
For heightened highlights and a more textured finish, apply Wild Rider Red by Games Workshop to areas that would naturally catch more light.
To create the textured effect, employ a small brush (such as size 00) and make small, scratchy, stipple-like marks on the armour, focusing on areas where light naturally falls.
4. Enhanced Highlighting and Blending:
If the transition between Nocturnal Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet seems too abrupt, blend them by applying Nocturnal Red over the edges of the Evil Sunz Scarlet highlights.
For the brightest points, mix Wild Rider Red with White Star (or any white paint) and apply cautiously. Excessive white can desaturate the red and diminish its intensity.
Soften and merge the texture marks by glazing over them with thinned Nocturnal Red.
5. Refinement:
Alternate between Nocturnal Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red to refine the texture and smoothly blend the highlights.
Adjust the highlight intensity depending on the curvature and structure of the armour pieces.
6. Final Adjustments:
Once content with the highlighting and texture, make any final tweaks necessary. This might involve reinforcing the deepest shadows or adding a final glaze to unify the colours.
Technique Tips:
Consistency is key. Ensure the paint is properly thinned for a smoother application.
Build up the colours in layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next.
Consider the light source and its interaction with the armour’s shape when placing highlights.
For the textured effect, use just the tip of the brush with a gentle hand.
Video Part Three : Bronze Trim on the Armour (NMM)
This video shows how to paint the bronze trim on the juggernaut armour using NMM (Non Metallic Metal)
The following paints were used:
Paints and Materials Used
Vallejo Model Colour (New): Gorgon Brown, Grunge Brown, Sunset Orange, Toxic Yellow Two Thin Coats: Doomdeath Black, White Star (and black and white will do)
Step by Step Guide
1. Base Coat:
Start by applying Gorgon Brown from Vallejo Model Colour. This colour serves as your base for the bronze trim. It’s a dark brown that’s not as red as Rhinox Hide but works well for this purpose.
2. Building the Colour:
Next, apply Grunge Brown, also from Vallejo, to begin building up the bronze colour. This shade will act as a mid-tone in your NMM technique.
3. Adding Highlights:
Use Sunset Orange from Vallejo Model Colour to start highlighting the raised areas of the trim. Blend it in at the sides with Grunge Brown for a smoother transition.
4. Mixing for Intermediate Shades:
Create a mix of Grunge Brown and Sunset Orange (about 50/50) to create an intermediate shade. Use this to bridge the gap between the darker base and the brighter highlights.
5. Further Highlighting:
Proceed with Toxic Yellow from Vallejo Model Colour for your next layer of highlights. This colour, akin to Ice Yellow, provides a nice, smooth application and gives a cooler yellow tone to your bronze.
6. Using White for Final Highlights:
For the brightest highlights, mix a small amount of White Star from Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats (or any suitable white paint) with your highlight colour. Apply this sparingly to the most raised and reflective areas of the trim.
7. Refining and Adjusting:
Go back and forth between your colours, adjusting the blends and refining the highlights. Remember, NMM is about creating the illusion of metal through contrast and careful placement of lights and darks.
8. Glazing for Saturation:
If the colours lack saturation or depth, glaze over the mid-tones and shadows with a diluted Grunge Brown. This step adds richness and depth to the bronze colour.
Technique Tips:
Aim for smooth transitions between shades. Use glazing techniques to blend the layers seamlessly.
Focus on the light source and how it would naturally hit the trim. The highest points should have the brightest highlights.
For NMM, contrast is key. Don’t shy away from using dark shadows against bright highlights to mimic the reflective nature of metal.
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
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This video shows you how to paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz army for Age of Sigmar. The model was painted exclusively using Two Thin Coats paints.In this how to paint a Squigboss video, we’ll be doing something a bit different. I’ll guide you through the process of painting the Squig boss, generously sent to me by Games Workshop. Alongside, I’ll be reviewing a set of paints I personally purchased, intrigued by reviews—the Two Thin Coats series by Duncan Rhodes. These paints will exclusively adorn our Squigboss, and I’ve procured them independently. So, no sponsorships or freebies; it’s all about exploring these paints. Now, let’s get started!
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:Two Thin Coats: Two Thin Coats: Doom Death Black, White Star, Etheral Green, Carcharodon Grey, Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, Skeleton Legion, Demon Red, Scorched Earth, Dragon Fang, Boar Hide, Sanguine Scarlet, Dwarven Skin, Marine Blue, Orange Flare, Emerald Green, Wolf Grey, Fanatic Orange, Cuirass Leather, Berserker Red
Tips on how to paint a Squigboss with these paints!
Base Coat with Boar Hide Colour:Initiate with the “Boar Hide” shade, akin to Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, serving as the foundational coat for the entire Squig boss model.
Non-Metallic Metal Gold Face Mask:I’ve gone for a non-metallic gold style for the goblin’s face mask, utilising the unique properties of the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats series.Apply the same colours used for the face mask on the staff, creating a non-metallic metal effect. Note differences in technique for different areas.
Adapting to Paint Properties:The paints seem quite nice to work with. Thinning is essential, however, and adapting to the colours’ strength becomes a creative challenge.
Use Translucent Marks for Subtle Effects:Experiment with translucent or softer marks by thinning the paint more. This technique can be effective for creating subtle details but requires precision in application.
Be Mindful of Paint Strength:As mentioned, the colour strength might be stronger than anticipated, so be cautious when adding subtle marks. Adjust as needed to avoid overpowering the model with vibrant colours.
Varied Application Techniques:Explore different application techniques for varied textures and effects. The angular features of the model complement the paints’ adaptability very well and allows for creative highlighting and detailing
Matte Finish and Dark Tones:Consider a matte finish for the model to achieve a pastel look. Embrace the dark and yellow tones for added depth and character.
Diverse Colour Palette for Highlights:Incorporate a diverse colour palette, such as Dark Sun Yellow, for highlighting and detailing, providing a unique touch to gold and other elements. The matte finish and the richness these paints bring to dark and yellow tones is great.
Quick Scratches and Detailing:Create quick, sharp scratches and detailing, adding interest to specific areas without the need for extensive blending. Quick and sharp detailing becomes a breeze with these paints, making them ideal for adding interesting detail without the need for laborious blending.
Highlighting with Translucent White:Use translucent white for highlighting, applying small amounts to achieve a subtle effect. Ensure quick application to prevent drying before reaching the model.
Colour Variations for Textures:Experiment with different colours for textures, adapting to the model’s features. Allow the varied palette to enhance details and bring out the intricacies. The paints are good at bringing out intricate details.
Teeth Detailing:Detail the teeth with simple lines, complementing the skin fold creases. Use the extra detailing to fill spaces and add interest without smoothing transitions.
Remember, the beauty lies in adapting and exploring the properties of the paints. Happy painting!
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This video shows you how to paint the Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull and Skin on a Blood Bowl Mummy.
Video Tutorial – How to Paint the Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull and Skin
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints (Games Workshop):
Mournfang Brown
Rhinox Hide
XV-88
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Ushabti Bone
Death Korps Drab
Hobgrot Hide (not recommended)
Trollslayer Orange
Paints (Vallejo):
Ice Yellow
Pure White
Neutral Grey
Brushes:
Size 00 Artist Opus Brush (for detailed work)
Size 2 Artist Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing)
Other Materials:
MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect)
Step-by-Step Guide
1. How to Paint the Bandages:
Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages.
Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect.
Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail.
Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages.
2. How to Paint the Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold):
Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base.
Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect.
Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades.
3. How to Paint the Clothing (Trousers/Pants):
Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour.
Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights.
4. How to Paint the Belt:
Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour.
Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick.
5. How to Paint the Skin:
Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas.
Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition.
6. How to Paint the Base and Finishing Touches:
Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass.
Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model.
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This video and guide shows how to paint an Ogroid sword with NMM (non-metallic metal) and rusty effects.
(Apologies for the dog hair)
Video : How to Paint an Ogroid Sword with NMM and Rust
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!)
Paints and Materials
Paints
Games Workshop:
Mournfang Brown
Troll Slayer Orange
Fire Dragon Bright
Rhinox Hide
Vallejo:
Ice Yellow
Black
German Grey
Neutral Grey
Pure White (Mecha Color)
Brushes
A range of brushes were used, including but not limited to:
A fine detail brush (such as a size 0 or 00), used for detailed work and fine highlights.
A larger brush (like a size 2), which can be useful for broader strokes and glazing.
Other Materials
Blue Tack: Used to temporarily attach the sword to the model for assessing lighting and highlight placement.
Wet Palette: Essential for mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Water: For thinning paints, essential for techniques like glazing and stippling.
Step-by-Step
Basecoat and Shades:
Start with a neutral grey, darkened slightly with black.
Create a gradient of greys by mixing German Grey with Neutral Grey, and then adding Ice Yellow for various shades. This creates a series of warm greys for highlights.
Use a wet palette to mix and maintain the paint consistency.
Highlighting the Blade:
Focus on creating a main shine spot on the curved part of the blade, as this area naturally catches more light.
Add random reflections down the blade. Over-highlight initially as you will glaze over these later to reduce their intensity.
Remember that the flat of the blade will be rusty, so avoid highlighting this area.
Adding Details:
Paint distinct blocks of highlights or reflections on the blade, especially around the curved section.
Start with darker greys and layer up to lighter ones, finishing with Pure White for the brightest spots.
Use vertical brush strokes for control and consistency.
Rust Effects on the Blade:
Stipple Mournfang Brown over the flat of the blade for a textured rust effect. Be random and uneven in your application.
Layer Troll Slayer Orange over this, focusing on specific patches for an uneven and realistic rust effect.
Optionally, use Fire Dragon Bright for the brightest rust highlights.
Refining and Adding Scratches:
Add scratches and chips using a mixture of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow.
Apply these details sparingly and randomly to avoid patterns.
For added depth, add a line of a darker colour (like Rhinox Hide) above some of the scratches.
Finishing Touches:
Make final adjustments to the highlights and rust effects.
Use glazing techniques to soften transitions and blend colours seamlessly.
Be cautious with the use of white; too much can detract from the warm effect.
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How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy with weathered NMM bronze effects, bandages, clothing, NMM Skull and Skin!
Scroll town to explore the two video tutorials in order, or quick jump to specific techniques and materials you might need.
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with VerdigrisPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze MummyVideo Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and BasePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideBandagesSkull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)Clothing (Trousers/Pants)BeltSkinBase and Finishing Touches
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with Verdigris
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Pure White
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy
1. Priming and Base Coating:
Start with the model already primed in black. Apply Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) roughly on the armour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. The application at this stage can be quite loose and liberal.
2. Layering for Texture:
Proceed with XV-88 (Games Workshop), this time being more careful and refined in your brushwork. Focus on creating a weathered texture, interpreting the previous layer’s marks as damage or wear. Use the very tip of the brush for finer lines and stippling.
3. Detailing with Lighter Tones:
Use Balor Brown (Games Workshop) to further enhance the details. At this stage, focus on the edges, rivets, and any other raised details on the armour. Remember, the aim is to create a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the lower edges of dents or imperfections to create depth.
4. Highest Highlights:
Introduce Ice Yellow (Vallejo) for the brightest parts of the armour. Apply it sparingly and only on the most raised areas to create the illusion of light reflecting off metal. Be cautious with this step to maintain a realistic metallic look.
5. Glazing for Depth:
If needed, mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with water to create a glaze. Apply this over areas that are in shadow or need to be toned down. This step helps integrate the highlights and creates a more cohesive look.
6. Applying Verdigris:
For the verdigris effect, use Sybarite Green and Gauss Blaster Green (both Games Workshop). Thin these paints down considerably. Apply them mainly in recessed areas, joints, and crevices where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Avoid covering the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
Technique Tips:
Work in layers, building up from dark to light to create depth and realism.
Focus on where light naturally hits the model, creating highlights that follow the form and curvature of the armour.
In the verdigris step, less is more. It’s easier to add more verdigris effect than to remove it, so start with a light application and build up as neede
Video Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and Base
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints (Games Workshop):
Mournfang Brown
Rhinox Hide
XV-88
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Ushabti Bone
Death Korps Drab
Hobgrot Hide (not recommended)
Trollslayer Orange
Paints (Vallejo):
Ice Yellow
Pure White
Neutral Grey
Brushes:
Size 00 Artis Opus Brush (for detailed work)
Size 2 Artis Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing)
Other Materials:
MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect)
Step-by-Step Guide
Bandages
Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages.
Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect.
Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail.
Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages.
Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)
Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base.
Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect.
Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades.
Clothing (Trousers/Pants)
Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour.
Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights.
Belt
Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour.
Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick.
Skin
Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas.
Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition.
Base and Finishing Touches
Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass.
Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model.
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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This video shows how to paint Horus Ascended from the Horus Heresy. The video looks at his skin, the red osl glow around his head, the armour and the NMM armour trim.
Video: How to Paint Horus – Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Sons of Horus Green, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Balor BrownVallejo: Ice Yellow, Black, Neutral Grey P3: Morrow White
Steps and Tips
Assembly and Preparation:Assemble the model but leave the wolf pelt, cloak, and head unattached for ease of painting.Carefully address any mould lines on the mace, ensuring a clean finish.Utilise a heat gun to reshape the wolf pelt for an accurate fit on the model.
Priming:Prime the model thoroughly and allow it to set overnight.
Base Painting:Begin with a base coat of Mephiston Red, particularly on areas destined for the red glow (Object Source Lighting, OSL). Apply this in a brisk and relaxed style, without focusing on blending.
Building the Glow:Layer Wild Rider Red and Troll Slayer Orange, concentrating on recesses to enhance the glow effect.Incorporate Yriel Yellow for added brightness in the OSL areas.
Head Details:For the head, apply Cadian Fleshtone as a base to simulate natural lighting.Layer with Bugman’s Glow to establish depth and realistic skin tones.Highlight the forehead and areas receiving the main light with a mixture of Cadian Fleshtone and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for a pronounced highlight.
Armour Details:Start the armour with a base of Sons of Horus Green.For depth, mix Sons of Horus Green with black for shadowed areas, and with Ice Yellow for highlighted regions.
Metallic Effects:For non-metallic metal effects on trims and details, commence with XV-88 as a base.Progressively apply layers using Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, and Balor Brown, accentuating edges and raised details to mimic a metallic sheen.Employ Vallejo’s Neutral Grey for areas resembling steel or iron.
Finishing Touches:For ultimate highlights and refinement, use P3’s Morrow White.
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These videos show how to a paint a Nurgle shield with freehand for an Ogroid from the Slaves to Darkness army box.The freehand is if a Nurgle Plaguebearer head and is intended as a potential Golden Demon entry.
Scroll down to explore the tutorials and steps in order, or click the below to quick jump to a technique or section.
Video One: How to Paint a Nurgle Shield with FreehandPaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide: PreparationBase PaintingFreehand SketchingRefining and DetailingFinal TouchesImportant NotesVideo Two: How to Paint the Shield Shine and NMM TrimPaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsStep-by-Step GuidePreparing the PalettePainting the ShinePainting the NMM TrimFinal TouchesImportant NotesMore Freehand Tutorials to Explore
Video One: How to Paint a Nurgle Shield with Freehand
Paints and Materials Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Rhinox Hide
Bugman’s Glow
Mournfang Brown
Morghast Bone
Deathworld Forest
Yriel Yellow
Khorne Red
Ushabti Bone
Vallejo Paints:
Black
Ice Yellow
P3 Paint:
Morrow White
Brushes
Artist Opus:
Size 00 brushes (both a newer brush for finer details and an older brush for blending)
Other Materials
Wet Palette: To keep paints moist and workable.
Scalpel: For removing details from the shield.
Sandpaper: For smoothing the shield after using the scalpel.
Primer: Ultimate primer (specifically thinned with X20A for this project).
Mixing Water: For thinning paints on the palette.
Matte Varnish: To even out the surface and finish of the paint job.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Preparation
Prep the Nurgle Shield with Freehand: Remove intricate details from the shield using a scalpel and sand it slightly. Keep some battle damage for authenticity, if you wish.
Prime the Shield: Use Ultimate primer, thinned with X20A, applied in 4-5 thin coats.
Base Painting
Wet Palette Setup: Prepare a wet palette with the following Games Workshop colours: Ice Yellow, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Deathworld Forest, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, and Ushabti Bone. Also, have Vallejo Black and P3 Morrow White ready.
Mixing Colours: Create various mixes of these colours on the palette, adjusting with water for a thinner consistency (approximately 50/50).
Freehand Sketching
Initial Sketch: Start sketching the Nurgle face on the shield using Bugman’s Glow. This doesn’t have to be symmetrical or realistic.
Adding Details: Gradually add more details like eyes, horns, and facial deformations using the mixed colours. Use Rhinox Hide for shading.
Background Technique: Use Vallejo Black as a ‘rubber’ to tweak and correct the sketch as needed.
Refining and Detailing
Light and Shadow: Use the lighter and darker mixes to create depth, focusing on the facial features. Ensure a balance between highlights and shadows.
Adding Texture: Pay attention to the direction of brushstrokes to replicate skin texture and facial creases.
Final Touches
Metallic Effects: For a Golden Demon entry, ensure to incorporate light volumes and reflective effects on the shield, as well as on the freehand.
Glazing: You may need to glaze over the freehand to integrate it with the shield’s overall shine and metallic effect.
Varnishing: Finish the shield with a matte varnish to even out different paint finishes.
Important Notes
Brush Technique: Use the very tip of your brush for detailed work. Switch between an older brush for blending and a newer one for sharp details.
Colour Importance: While exact colour mixes are flexible, ensure to maintain the overall desaturated, moody look characteristic of Nurgle.
Patience and Layers: Build up the image with multiple thin layers, allowing for smooth transitions and a detailed finish.
Personal Style: Remember, this guide is a base. Feel free to adjust and experiment according to your style.
Video Two: How to Paint the Shield Shine and NMM Trim
Paints and Materials Used
Paints
Vallejo Paints:
Black
German Grey
Neutral Grey
Ice Yellow
White
Games Workshop Paints:
Mournfang Brown
Brushes
Size 00 Brush: Ideal for detailed work and fine textures. Used for most of the work including the shine and trim.
Size 2 Brush: Used for broader strokes and glazing, especially over larger areas.
Other Materials
Wet Palette: To keep the paints moist and workable.
Lamp: For observing how natural light falls on the model, crucial for accurate highlight placement.
Blu Tack or Similar Adhesive: To temporarily attach the shield to the model for correct angle assessment.
Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Palette
Setup Wet Palette: Prepare a wet palette with Vallejo Black, German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White, and Games Workshop Mournfang Brown. Create a gradient of grey shades from black to white, mixing in Ice Yellow and White with Neutral Grey for various mid-tones.
Painting the Shine
Analyzing Light Direction: Position the model under a lamp to observe natural light fall. This will guide the placement of the shine.
Initial Highlights: Start with a Neutral Grey or a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey to block in the primary highlight areas on the shield.
Building Up Layers: Gradually increase the brightness of the highlights, focusing on the top left as the primary light source. Remember, the paint will appear brighter when wet and duller when dry.
Textured Effect: Use scratchy and stipple brushstrokes with minimal paint for a textured shine effect. Use the very tip of your brush.
Bounce Highlight: Add a bounce highlight at the bottom of the shield, reflecting light from the ground. This should be less bright than the primary highlight. Use a watered-down Mournfang Brown for a glaze over this area.
Painting the NMM Trim
Blocking in Highlights: Use Neutral Grey to block in primary highlights on the trim, focusing on the top area.
Adding Variation: Create a variety of light grey blocks along the trim, ensuring they get darker and more spaced out as they move away from the top highlight.
Refining Highlights: Gradually add lighter tones, culminating in white for the brightest parts. Ensure these highlights align with the shield’s central highlight.
Detailing Scratches: Use white to pick out tiny dots on sculpted scratches for added realism and depth.
Bounce Highlight on Trim: Similar to the shield, add a less intense bounce highlight at the bottom of the trim.
Final Touches
Glazing: Apply a thin glaze of Mournfang Brown over certain areas for colour integration and smooth transitions.
Detail Checks: Make any necessary adjustments to neaten the highlights and ensure consistency in lighting and texture across the shield and trim.
Important Notes
Consistency and Control: Maintain a good balance in paint consistency – not too thick for opaque marks and not too watery to avoid spreading.
Brush Technique: Always pull the brush towards yourself for control and precision, especially important when working near the freehand area.
Learning and Experimentation: Remember, this technique is both challenging and rewarding. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from the process.
These guides should provide a clear roadmap to achieving a high-standard finish for your freehand on shields, suitable for display or competition. Remember, practice and patience are key to mastering these techniques and don’t be afraid to do your own thing and add your own personal touch or style to your freehand!
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This video shows how to paint a NMM Axe belonging to the Chaos Champion from the Slaves to Darkness army box. The axe head is painted in NMM steel to a display level standard with coloured reflections. The trim of the axe is painted in NMM Gold.
Video: How to Paint a NMM Axe
Materials:
Paints: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Barroth Blue (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3)
Fine detail paintbrushes
Wet palette (optional, but recommended)
Steps for NMM Steel Effect on the Axe Blade:
Base Colour: Start with Neutral Grey. Block in the areas where you anticipate highlights, but don’t worry about precision at this stage. This step is about mapping out your light and dark areas.
Adding Reflections: Employ a ‘Sky Earth’ technique, but avoid a mirror-like chrome finish. Instead, aim for a less reflective surface with smoother transitions. This will differ from the steel look on the armour.
Colour Integration: On downward-facing surfaces, integrate a bit of Mournfang Brown into your Neutral Grey. For the top of the blade, use a lighter mix, incorporating a bit of Ice Yellow into Neutral Grey.
Brightness and Shadows: Apply Barroth Blue to represent the sky’s reflection. It should be brighter but not overly stark. Add Rhinox Hide to darken and desaturate certain areas, especially on downward curves.
Blending and Transition: Focus on blending your colours. Use a stippling or cross-hatching technique to create smooth transitions between the different tones. Pay attention to the balance between the bright and dark areas to maintain the metallic effect.
Final Highlights: For the brightest points, use Morrow White, especially on the uppermost curves and edges. This step is crucial for selling the metallic effect. Remember to keep these highlights sharp and focused.
Steps for NMM Gold Effect on the Axe Trim:
Base Coat: Start with XV-88. Outline the areas you want to appear as gold. This will be the foundation for your gold effect.
Layering: Gradually build up layers with Balor Brown, focusing on areas that would naturally catch more light. Be mindful of the shape and texture of the trim.
Adding Highlights: Use Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights on the gold sections. Apply it sparingly to the most prominent areas, like the edges and raised details.
Refining Details: Introduce Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide in the darker areas for deeper shadows, creating contrast and depth.
Final Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest spots on the gold trim, emphasizing the highest points of light reflection. This will enhance the metallic illusion.
Key Tips:
Brush Control: Use the tip of your brush for precision. The quality of your lines and blending directly impacts the realism of the NMM effect.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure that the light source is consistent across the model. This affects where you place highlights and shadows.
Patience and Layers: NMM is about building up layers gradually. Work slowly and allow layers to dry before applying the next.
Blending: Smooth transitions between colours are vital. Practice stippling and glazing techniques for seamless blends.
Reflections and Realism: Study how light interacts with metallic surfaces. Incorporate reflected colours and environments subtly into your NMM work for added realism.
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These videos show how to paint the the Chaos Champion from the Slaves to Darkness army box that Games Workshop sent me, with full paints list and detailed step by steps. This guide is a part of a series focusing on non-metallic metal (NMM) armour, NMM gold, and a large animal skull, using a variety of paints including Games Workshop and Vallejo colours. The second video where we paint his NMM axe can be found below the first.
Video: How to Paint the Chaos Champion
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Vallejo Heavy Grey
Games Workshop Barroth Blue
Games Workshop XV-88
Games Workshop Balor Brown
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Ice Yellow
P3 Morrow White
Vallejo Neutral Grey
Vallejo Model Color Black
Games Workshop Elysium Green (optional)
Size 00 and Size 1 brushes
Wet palette
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint the Chaos Champion:
Step 1: Base Coat the Armour
Apply Vallejo Heavy Grey across all armour panels. This colour isn’t a plain grey but has a greenish, olive drab tone, adding a subtle hint of colour to the model.
Step 2: Detailed Armour Painting
Begin with a haphazard application of Heavy Grey, ensuring not to fill the recesses excessively.
For the first highlight, mix Heavy Grey and Barroth Blue in a 50/50 ratio. Apply this carefully, focusing on stippling and scratchy textures.
Progressively add more Barroth Blue to the mix for subsequent highlights.
The final highlight uses P3 Morrow White, applied sparingly on the most prominent parts.
Step 3: Non-Metallic Gold Trim
Start with a base coat of Games Workshop XV-88.
Apply Balor Brown, followed by Ice Yellow for highlights.
Use Vallejo Neutral Grey for lower bounce highlights.
Focus on creating high contrasts on sharp edges and subtle curves to mimic metallic shine.
Step 4: Painting the Skull
Base the skull with Games Workshop XV-88.
Add texture using Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, focusing on stippling to create a bone-like appearance.
Use Games Workshop Screaming Skull for higher highlights.
Finish with a glaze of Vallejo Neutral Grey to soften contrasts.
Step 5: Horns and Details
Paint the horns starting with Mournfang Brown, transitioning to Rhinox Hide, and finishing with black towards the tips.
Apply small highlights of Balor Brown and then white at the tips for a shiny effect.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Continuously refine the armour’s highlights, focusing on light direction and texture.
Use stippling techniques for texture on the skull and bones.
Ensure all parts of the model, including edges and recesses, are neatly finished.
Video: How to Paint the Chaos Champion NMM Axe
Materials:
Paints: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Barroth Blue (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3)
Fine detail paintbrushes
Wet palette (optional, but recommended)
Steps for NMM Steel Effect on the Axe Blade:
Base Colour: Start with Neutral Grey. Block in the areas where you anticipate highlights, but don’t worry about precision at this stage. This step is about mapping out your light and dark areas.
Adding Reflections: Employ a ‘Sky Earth’ technique, but avoid a mirror-like chrome finish. Instead, aim for a less reflective surface with smoother transitions. This will differ from the steel look on the armour.
Colour Integration: On downward-facing surfaces, integrate a bit of Mournfang Brown into your Neutral Grey. For the top of the blade, use a lighter mix, incorporating a bit of Ice Yellow into Neutral Grey.
Brightness and Shadows: Apply Barroth Blue to represent the sky’s reflection. It should be brighter but not overly stark. Add Rhinox Hide to darken and desaturate certain areas, especially on downward curves.
Blending and Transition: Focus on blending your colours. Use a stippling or cross-hatching technique to create smooth transitions between the different tones. Pay attention to the balance between the bright and dark areas to maintain the metallic effect.
Final Highlights: For the brightest points, use Morrow White, especially on the uppermost curves and edges. This step is crucial for selling the metallic effect. Remember to keep these highlights sharp and focused.
Steps for NMM Gold Effect on the Axe Trim:
Base Coat: Start with XV-88. Outline the areas you want to appear as gold. This will be the foundation for your gold effect.
Layering: Gradually build up layers with Balor Brown, focusing on areas that would naturally catch more light. Be mindful of the shape and texture of the trim.
Adding Highlights: Use Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights on the gold sections. Apply it sparingly to the most prominent areas, like the edges and raised details.
Refining Details: Introduce Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide in the darker areas for deeper shadows, creating contrast and depth.
Final Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest spots on the gold trim, emphasizing the highest points of light reflection. This will enhance the metallic illusion.
Key Tips:
Brush Control: Use the tip of your brush for precision. The quality of your lines and blending directly impacts the realism of the NMM effect.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure that the light source is consistent across the model. This affects where you place highlights and shadows.
Patience and Layers: NMM is about building up layers gradually. Work slowly and allow layers to dry before applying the next.
Blending: Smooth transitions between colours are vital. Practice stippling and glazing techniques for seamless blends.
Reflections and Realism: Study how light interacts with metallic surfaces. Incorporate reflected colours and environments subtly into your NMM work for added realism.
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These videos show you how to paint a Sons of Velmorn Skeleton from the Sons of Velmorn warband, which comes in the new Warhammer Underworlds Gnarlwood box that Games Workshop sent me.
Video – How to Paint a Sons of Velmorn Skeleton Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Brushes: A size 2 brush for most painting and a smaller brush for details.
Paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Troll Slayer Orange, Firedragon Bright, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green, Dryad Bark (Games Workshop); German Grey (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3).
Step by Step Guide
Basecoat Armour: Start by base coating all metal areas with Dryad Bark. This unconventional start sets the stage for rusty, worn armour.
Mix Fabric Colour: Create a custom fabric colour by mixing Sybarite Green and German Grey. Adjust this mix to your preference – more grey for desaturation or pure green for vibrancy.
Apply Base Colours: Block in other base colours: Rhinox Hide for leather and wood parts, and Morghast Bone for skeletal areas. Don’t worry about perfect opacity; focus on coverage.
Rusty Effect: To achieve a rusty effect on the armour, mix a small amount of Mournfang Brown into the Dryad Bark, then add a bit of white to desaturate. Apply this mix to the armour, focusing on recesses and areas where rust would naturally accumulate.
Enhance Rust: Use straight Mournfang Brown, thinned with water, to intensify the rust effect, especially in recesses and dents.
Brighten Rust: Add Troll Slayer Orange and Firedragon Bright to certain rust areas for colour variation, keeping in mind how rust behaves in reality.
Non-Metallic Metal Highlights: Start highlighting the armour. Mix white into your base armour colour progressively, applying these lighter shades to raised areas and edges to simulate metallic reflection.
Detailing: Use the very tip of your brush for small highlights and scratches, particularly on the armour and blade. This step adds depth and realism to the rusty, worn metal effect.
White Highlights: Finally, use Morrow White for the brightest points on the armour. Be selective and minimal with white to maintain focus and contrast.
Finish Up: Conclude by refining highlights and ensuring a smooth transition between shades.
Additional Tips
Rust Placement: Apply rust thoughtfully, considering where it would naturally form and accumulate.
Highlighting Technique: Combine stippling and precise brushwork for a realistic, weathered look.
Focus on Key Areas: Spend more time on prominent areas like the helmet and chest for better visual impact.
Maintain Brush Control: Regularly adjust your brush’s load to avoid unwanted paint marks.
Balance Realism and Style: Choose your rust and highlight placement for both aesthetic appeal and realism.
Video – How to Paint a Sons of Velmorn Skeleton Part Two
Paints and Materials
Paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Troll Slayer Orange, Firedragon Bright, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green, Dryad Bark (Games Workshop); German Grey (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3).
Brushes: A size 2 brush for larger areas and a finer brush for details.
Step by Step Guide
Fabric Highlights:
Mix Sybarite Green, German Grey, and a bit of Morrow White.
Apply the mix to the fabric, focusing on smooth transitions. Use a larger brush for fewer brush strokes.
Multiple thin layers are needed. Add a small amount of white for each layer, focusing on the most illuminated areas.
Bone Details:
The bone areas are detailed and require precision. Consider using a smaller brush.
Highlight the raised areas and sculpted details, like elbow joints and knuckles.
For the face, accentuate teeth more than other bone parts for contrast.
Leather and Wood:
Start with Rhinox Hide, then apply Mournfang Brown, focusing on the upper edges.
Mix in Cadian Flesh Tone with Mournfang Brown for subsequent highlights, concentrating on the top edge and creating creases.
For the wood, after Mournfang Brown, use Balor Brown with Neutral Grey for desaturation. Highlight raised grain details.
Non-Metallic Gold:
Basecoat with XV-88.
Mix XV-88 with Ice Yellow for highlights.
Accentuate the brightest spots with a mixture of Ice Yellow and White.
Weathering Fabric:
Use heavily watered-down Rhinox Hide to create dirt and stains on the fabric.
Apply in thin layers, allowing each to dry before adding more. Focus on areas that would naturally gather dirt.
Painting the Skirt:
Base the skirt with Dark Grey or German Grey.
Add White progressively for highlights, concentrating on the curves and upper areas.
Use Rhinox Hide for weathering, similar to the green fabric.
Finishing Touches:
Add fine details like bone texture, teeth, and small crevices.
For the base, a simple grey stone effect with highlights works well.
Additional Tips
Brush Choice: Use larger brushes for broad areas and smaller ones for detailed work. I used the Artist Opus range of brushes, but any high-quality brush is good.
Weathering: Weathering can mask imperfections and add realism.
Balance of Colours: Ensure the fabric and armour contrast in cleanliness and texture.
Attention to Details: Small details like teeth or bone texture can significantly enhance the model’s appearance.
Lighting Consistency: Ensure your highlights are consistent with the light source direction established across the model.
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These videos show how to paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn Warrior (space dwarfs/squats), which were sent to me by Games Workshop.
Video Part One – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn WarriorVideo Part Two – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn WarriorPaints UsedPreparation and Base CoatingFace Mask and ArmourTrousers and BootsAdditional Details and WeatheringFinal Touches
Video Part One – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn Warrior
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Video Part Two – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn Warrior
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Sotek Green, Warpstone Glow, Yriel Yellow, XV-88, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Troll Slayer Orange, Fire Dragon Bright, Deathworld Forest, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Dark Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Preparation and Base Coating
Model Assembly: Assemble your model, ensuring arms and weapons are separated for easier painting.
Priming: Apply a black primer evenly across the model. This will serve as your base for all subsequent layers.
Face Mask and Armour
Base Layer: Begin with ‘Rhinox Hide’ for the face mask, focusing on the left-hand side to simulate light direction. For the armour, start with ‘Sotek Green’, applying the paint loosely to create texture.
Highlighting Technique: Use a lamp to identify where the main highlights should be, focusing on the upper left side of the model. This will help simulate directional lighting.
Layering Armour: Build up the armour’s colour using layers of ‘Sotek Green’, ‘Ahriman Blue’, and ‘Temple Guard Blue’. For the final highlights, mix ‘Ice Yellow’ with ‘Temple Guard Blue’.
Detailing Face Mask: Use ‘Balor Brown’ and ‘Ice Yellow’ for detailing, especially on the top left side for highlights.
Trousers and Boots
Base Coat: Start with a black or dark grey base coat for the trousers.
Highlights: Gradually build highlights on the trousers using a mix of the base colour and ‘Ice Yellow’. Keep the highlights subtle to maintain the focus on the upper part of the model.
Additional Details and Weathering
Boots and Lower Details: Use a similar technique as the trousers for the boots, focusing on subtle highlights.
Weathering: Apply ‘Mournfang Brown’ to create a worn, weathered look on the armour. Focus on recesses and edges to simulate natural wear and tear.
Final Touches
Refining Highlights: Go back to the armour and face mask, refining highlights where necessary. This is the stage to perfect your light direction and ensure consistency across the model.
Completing the Base: Paint the base to complement the model. A simple, unobtrusive design ensures the focus remains on the warrior.
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These videos show how to paint Cado Ezechiar, one of the vampire models from Games Workshop. He was painted as a part of my Golden Demon entry for 2024!
There are a lot of fun techniques I used on Cado, from his pitted, slightly worn armour, to his cloth undershirt, cape and some weathered leather. Read on to explore the tutorials in order, or click below to explore each part.
Video Part One – Armour and Red ClothPaints UsedPreparationBlocking in ColoursPainting the ArmourEnhancing Texture and ColourVideo Part Two – Leather Belt and Pouch, the NMM Gold Dragon on his chest and his Black Cape with WeatheringPaints UsedStep-by-Step GuideLeather DetailsNMM Gold DragonBlack CapeVideo Part Three – How to Paint a Vampire HeadMaterials ListHow to Paint a Vampire Head Painting GuidePreparationBase CoatingLayering and DetailingAdditional TipsVideo Part Four – How to Paint his Cracked Leather ScabbardMaterials and PaintsStep by Step Guide to Paint a Cracked Leather ScabbardLeather Technique TipsVideos Not Showing?
Video Part One – Armour and Red Cloth
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German GreyP3: Morrow White
Preparation
Priming: The model should already be primed black. Imperfections in the primer’s coverage are not a concern, as all surfaces will be covered with paint.
Blocking in Colours
Base Coating: Start by blocking in base colours for efficiency and to prevent having to meticulously paint near completed areas later. Use Rhinox Hide for leather parts and German Grey (or a dark grey made by mixing black and white) for armour sections. This step is about laying down foundational colours and reacquainting yourself with the painting process.
Painting the Armour
Initial Armour Layer: Apply a base layer of German Grey across all armour parts. This step establishes a dark base for building up the texture and highlights that will follow.
Adding Texture and Base Highlights: Switch to Neutral Grey to begin adding texture and lighting effects to the armour. This involves creating scratch-like marks to simulate corrosion and wear, enhancing the model’s detailed sculpting. A size 00 brush is recommended for fine control and detail work.
Building Highlights: Gradually lighten the armour by adding more Neutral Grey, and then lighten further by mixing in Ice Yellow with Neutral Grey. The goal is to create a gradient of highlights leading to the brightest points of the armour. The addition of Ice Yellow introduces warmth to the grey, adding visual interest.
Final Highlights: Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights. Apply this sparingly to the most raised areas and points where light would naturally be the strongest. The white should be watered down significantly to ensure a smooth application.
Enhancing Texture and Colour
Glazing for Depth: Mix a glaze using Mournfang Brown and apply it to shadow areas and recesses to add depth and warmth to the armour. Follow up with Corvus Black for deepening the shadows further. These glazes help unify the texture and add complexity to the finish.
Adjustments and Finishing Touches: Continuously assess the model as you paint, especially when transitioning between different sections or colours. Ensure that the lighting and colours are cohesive across the model to maintain the unit’s unified appearance.
Video Part Two – Leather Belt and Pouch, the NMM Gold Dragon on his chest and his Black Cape with Weathering
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Fire Dragon Bright, XV-88, Balor Brown Vallejo: Dark Grey, Ice Yellow
Step-by-Step Guide
Leather Details
Base Coat: Start with Rhinox Hide as the base for all leather parts, which was applied in the previous painting session.
Initial Highlights: Using Mournfang Brown, begin blocking in the details on the belt and pouch using a size 00 brush. Focus on applying the paint with the tip of the brush, even when filling larger areas, to maintain precision and control.
Adding Texture: With the same brush, enhance the leather texture by applying additional highlights with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and Fire Dragon Bright. The Fire Dragon Bright will lighten the colour but may also increase the paint’s translucency, requiring multiple layers for full opacity.
Further Highlights: Introduce Ice Yellow into the mix for the next set of highlights, focusing on the most illuminated areas like the top of the pouch and the sides of the belt that are exposed to light. Use a delicate touch to add fine details and texture, simulating the natural wear and tear on the leather.
NMM Gold Dragon
Base Layer: Use XV-88 as your base colour for the dragon emblem. Carefully outline the shape, leaving black lines between the details to create depth and contrast.
Building Up Colour: Gradually add Balor Brown to the XV-88, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit the emblem. Consider the curvature and form of the dragon to place your highlights thoughtfully, enhancing the 3D effect.
Final Highlights: Mix in Ice Yellow with your base colours to brighten the highest points of the emblem. Apply these highlights sparingly to areas like the brow, nose tip, and the edges of the dragon heads to achieve a metallic shine. Optionally, add a dot of pure white at the very brightest points for maximum impact.
Black Cape
Initial Layering: Prime the cape black and then apply Vallejo Dark Grey, thinned with water (approximately 60% water to 40% paint), to start building up the layers. Aim for smooth, gradual transitions, focusing on the creases and raised areas of the cape.
Highlighting: Incrementally mix Ice Yellow into the Dark Grey for the highlights. Apply these to the edges and folds of the cape where the light naturally hits, ensuring that the highlights are concentrated towards the top of the folds to emphasise the flow and texture of the fabric.
Weathering: Using Rhinox Hide, begin stippling the lower edges of the cape to simulate mud and grime build-up. Progressively add Mournfang Brown and then Balor Brown into your mix, focusing the lighter, more detailed stippling towards the very bottom to create a realistic weathered effect. Avoid making this look too uniform; natural wear and variety in the marks will enhance the realism.
Video Part Three – How to Paint a Vampire Head
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials List
Paints:
Games Workshop: Cadian Fleshtone, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, German Grey
P3: Morrow White (or any white paint)
Brushes:
Size 2 Round Brush (for broad applications)
Size 00 Round Brush (for detailed work)
Other Materials:
Wet Palette (to keep paints moist and workable)
Water Pot (for cleaning brushes)
Mixing Palette (for mixing custom paint shades)
Blue Tack (for temporarily attaching components)
Metal Rod (for holding the model while painting)
Super Glue (for assembly adjustments)
How to Paint a Vampire Head Painting Guide
Preparation
Modify and Assemble: Modify the hair of the model to prevent it from touching the face, allowing for easier access when painting. This involves careful cutting, reattaching, and positioning of the hair components.
Priming: Prime the model with a neutral primer to ensure paint adhesion and colour accuracy.
Base Coating
Apply Base Colours: Begin with a base coat of Cadian Fleshtone for the skin, applying it thinly (around a 1.5:1 ratio of water to paint) using a size 2 brush for a smooth layer. For the hair, use Neutral Grey as the base.
Layering and Detailing
Layering: Employ both a size 2 brush for general work and a 00 brush for fine details. Gradually build up the skin tones, focusing on creating dramatic lighting by highlighting facial features and leaving recesses darker. Mix Cadian Fleshtone with white for various highlight shades.
Eyes and Teeth Detailing: For the eyes, utilise Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for a glowing effect. For the teeth, mix Cadian Fleshtone with white to achieve a natural bone colour, steering clear of pure white to maintain realism.
Hair: Paint the hair in layers, starting with Neutral Grey, then adding white for highlights. Adjust shading and highlighting to reflect texture and colour accurately.
Shadows and Highlights: Use German Grey for deep shadows to add depth, especially around the eyes and under facial features. Use mixtures of Cadian Fleshtone with white and grey to refine the face’s appearance, enhancing the transition from light to shadow.
Final Touches: Add fine highlights with a mix of the lightest skin tone and a bit of white, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Use a fine brush for precision, ensuring smooth transitions between light and dark areas.
Additional Tips
Brush Care: Always wet your brush before starting to paint, even if it appears clean, to ensure smooth paint flow.
Lighting Effects: When painting, consider how light interacts with the model’s features. This helps in achieving a more natural and realistic appearance, even with dramatic lighting.
Colour Mixing: Don’t be limited by paint names. Understand that all paints are just colours, and creative mixing can achieve the desired effect, such as using skin tone mixes for teeth to avoid too stark a contrast.
Video Part Four – How to Paint his Cracked Leather Scabbard
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Materials and Paints
Paints:
Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) – A dark brown paint used as the base color for the leather.
Bugman’s Glow (Games Workshop) – A flesh-toned paint used for creating mid-tones and highlights on the leather.
White (P3 Morrow White) – Used for mixing with Bugman’s Glow to create lighter shades for finer highlights.
Brushes:
Fine Detail Brush – A high-quality, fine-tipped brush, such as a size 0 or 00, is essential for painting the very fine lines that simulate the cracks in the leather. The brush used in the video is my favourite, the size 00 Artis Opus brush.
Additional Materials:
Water – For thinning the paints. The consistency of the paint should be around 50% water to 50% paint, with a slight adjustment for environmental factors like heat.
Wet Palette – To keep the paints hydrated and workable for longer periods. It’s particularly useful for mixing and maintaining the consistency of thinned paints.
Kitchen Roll or Paper Towel – Used for dabbing the brush to remove excess paint or water. It’s important to change the paper regularly to avoid degradation and particles sticking to the brush.
Painting Handle or Holder (optional) – To comfortably hold and manipulate the model while painting. I use Rathcore painting handles.
Step by Step Guide to Paint a Cracked Leather Scabbard
1. Preparation:
Ensure the scabbard on the model (in this case, Cado Ezechiar) is clean and ready for painting.
2. Base Coat:
Start by covering the entire scabbard area with Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop). Apply a couple of coats for even coverage but don’t worry about perfect opacity.
3. Mixing Paints:
Prepare your palette with a progression of mixes:
Rhinox Hide mixed with a small amount of Bugman’s Glow (GW).
Pure Bugman’s Glow, thinned slightly with water.
Bugman’s Glow mixed with a small amount of white (P3 Morrow White), and then a mix with more white added.
4. Detailing with a Fine Brush:
Use a thin brush, like a size 0 or 00, ensuring it has a very sharp tip for fine detailing.
Begin with the Rhinox Hide and Bugman’s Glow mix. Paint very fine, wiggly lines across the scabbard, simulating cracks in the leather. The lines should be more concentrated on the left side where the light hits, but include some on the right side too.
Turn the model as needed for comfort and accuracy but check the marks in the correct orientation to ensure they look natural.
Remember, the paint consistency should be about 50:50 water to paint, perhaps slightly more water for better flow.
5. Building Highlights:
Progress to using straight Bugman’s Glow. Go over some of the previous lines and add new ones. Ensure that some of the initial finer lines remain visible beneath.
Focus on making the edges and areas with supposed more wear brighter.
You can create deeper scratches by painting over the previous lines, adding detail and depth.
6. Correcting and Enhancing:
If any lines are too thick or dense, use Rhinox Hide to adjust them. You can also enhance them by extending the lines and creating additional features.
Remember, each line or mark should be distinct and avoid uniform patterns.
7. Final Highlights:
Use the mix of Bugman’s Glow and white for the brightest highlights. Apply these sparingly and focus on making them as small and fine as possible.
Adjust the intensity of your highlights by removing excess paint from the brush before application.
8. Glazing for Depth:
To bring the whole effect together and add depth, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown (GW) over the entire area. This step also helps soften the texture and make it more refined.
You can go back with Rhinox Hide into darker recesses if needed, to adjust the contrast and depth.
9. Final Touches:
Add more detail and glaze as needed to achieve the desired depth and realism in the leather texture. Be mindful of over-glazing, which can dilute the detail work.
10. Review and Adjust:
Continuously review your work and adjust as necessary to ensure a realistic and varied leather texture. Each step can be refined or corrected to achieve the desired effect.
Leather Technique Tips
Consistency in paint mixture is crucial for achieving the fine lines necessary for the cracked leather effect.
Regularly maintaining the brush’s fine tip is essential for detailed work.
Turning the model upside down can facilitate easier brush strokes, but always check the work in its correct orientation.
Glazing with thinned paint helps unify the painted area and add depth to the texture.
Remember, the key to this technique is patience and precision. The fine details make the difference, so take your time with each step to achieve a convincing cracked leather effect.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step Guide
Want more? Download the detailed PDF guide!
If you’ve enjoyed the video and want to take your painting to the next level, don’t forget to download the accompanying PDF guide. This extra resource provides step-by-step instructions, close-up insights, and useful tips to help you perfect the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold technique on Rogal Dorn’s armour. Whether you’re watching the video or painting at your own pace, the guide is here to ensure you achieve the best results.
Download the PDF Guide and master the art of NMM gold!
Read Now
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I don’t usually paint true metals as I find them irritating and the metallic particles get everywhere like a glitter bomb. I get a lot of requests for how to paint them though, so I thought I’d record this How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint for you, below!
Video – How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint
Paints Used
The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Snakebite Leather, Black Templar Games Workshop: Averland Sunset, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Air Chrome, Air Gunmetal Grey (large pots), Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (substitute Mechanicum Codex Grey and Abaddon Black)
Step-by-Step : How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint
Initial Preparation
Begin by assembling your Iron Warrior model, ensuring all parts are properly attached except for the head, which should be left unattached for easier painting. Your primary paints will be Vallejo Metal Colour Airbrush Colours, specifically Gunmetal Grey and Chrome, and Games Workshop’s Contrast paints like Snakebite Leather and Black Templar.
Applying the Base Coat
Start with Vallejo’s Air Gunmetal Grey. It’s a true metallic colour, enriched with botanic flakes to achieve a genuine metallic effect. This is in contrast to non-metallic metals which use standard colours to simulate metal. Apply Gunmetal Grey evenly, using a brush for a more organic, less sterile look. This approach maintains the natural shadows in recesses and adds interesting brush strokes.
Highlighting with Chrome
Enhance the model’s metallic sheen by highlighting with Vallejo Air Chrome. Focus on areas where light naturally falls, such as elevated surfaces and curves. The chrome will accentuate these spots, creating a dynamic contrast with the darker Gunmetal Grey. It’s crucial to observe the light interaction with the model to identify the best areas for chrome highlights.
Adding Shadows with Contrast Paint
For deepening shadows and adding depth, use Black Templar Contrast paint. This is particularly effective over metallic paints due to its translucent nature, adding depth without obscuring the metallic shine. Apply carefully to avoid overwhelming the metallic effect.
Detailing with Snakebite Leather
Snakebite Leather Contrast paint is excellent for adding warmth and a tint of colour to the metallics. It’s particularly useful for areas you want to appear weathered or less shiny. Apply sparingly and blend well to maintain a natural look.
Hazard Stripes on Shoulder Pads
Painting hazard stripes requires a steady hand and patience. Start by painting the shoulder pads with Neutral Grey and German Grey, blending these colours to create a mid-tone. Once the base is ready, use Averland Sunset for the yellow stripes. Ensure this paint is thin enough for smooth application but dense enough for good coverage. Carefully paint straight lines, keeping the spacing consistent. Avoid using masking techniques as they can complicate the process and don’t always yield cleaner results.
Finishing Touches
Once the main painting is complete, focus on adding small details like weathering effects, especially on the hazard stripes. Use black paint to simulate chips and scratches, creating a battle-worn look. Also, remember to paint the non-metallic parts, like the ribbing between armour plates, using appropriate grey tones.
Final Assembly and Clean-Up
After painting, reattach the head and any other separate parts. Be sure to clean your brushes thoroughly, especially when switching between metallic and non-metallic paints, to avoid unwanted cross-contamination
More Contrast Paint projects and tutorials:
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Richard was sent the new Warhammer 40,000 Leviathan box set from Games Workshop, and of course had to pick out his favourite model to paint up for a tutorial video for you guys. This is up on the website, ad free for freebie members and above, but also on Youtube – follow the link below or click in the embed to watch:
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic) P3: Morrow White
About the Leviathan box set – (Review by Rebecca)
The “launch box” contains two armies (Space Marines and Tyranids), a limited edition book, and lots of other treats. However, if you’re a newbie to this hobby, brace yourself for a slightly steeper learning curve. Unlike some dedicated starter sets, Leviathan skips the dice, measuring tools, and handy “get started” guide.
The box also contains a set of transfers covering a host of Space Marine Chapters.In the video Richard says that there are no Dark Angel ones, but there are, (sorry).
In addition to this, while the rules for every Warhammer 40k unit will be available for free download from Warhammer Community, be aware that the box itself does not include physical cards. Instead, you’ll find basic profiles tucked away in the back of the instruction manual.
Richard enjoyed painting a Terminator for the video above, and was impressed by the level of detail. They’ve managed to retain the classic charm of their predecessors while seamlessly blending into the ranks of the latest Space Marine models.
In this new edition, the Terminators boast some nifty tricks up their power-armoured sleeves. Imagine being able to plant a teleport marker anywhere on the battlefield right from the get-go, courtesy of these bad boys. And the best part? You can use Rapid Ingress without spending a single resource to appear right next to that marker. Finally, they give a resounding “no thanks” to any negative hit modifiers. That means they’re practically unstoppable in combat.
For beginners and those who stick themselves together more than their miniatures, the models in the Leviathan box set are push fit, requiring no glue. Despite their easy assembly, they stand strong against intricate multi-part kits, however and still boast a great level of detail and good customisability.
I, personally, love the books that comes with the sets, especially when they are as full of background information as the rule book that comes with the Leviathan set.This exclusive book encompasses a whopping 200 pages of background information, hobby details, and lore. Not only does it provide insights into every Combat Patrol available, but it also showcases stunning images of painted models.
In short, the Leviathan box set is a great set if you are looking to get a lot of very cool models plus some great lore!
Rebecca Gray
This website showcases lots of Warhammer tutorial videos by Richard Gray! If you don’t have an account on the website, please sign up here! In total, the website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore the free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand, especially for Adeptus Titanicus. The whole interview can be found here.
Richard: As a massive fan of Adeptus Titanicus, I knew I had to have the Warlord-Sinister Psi-Titan as soon as I saw it. After I built the model, I realised I would have to figure out how to add the Legio Sinister icon to the shoulder pads. With no transfers available, this would make an ideal project to show my freehand process.
The first thing to do when you want to freehand is a little research and planning. It’s very tempting to jump straight in and wing it. What usually happens if you do is that you run out of space, get details wrong and wish you had a transfer! With this in mind I looked for artwork of the Legio Sinister icon and managed to find a nice, large image. This tends to be when the true horror hits that you have a very detailed, large image that you need to fit in to a teeny tiny area.
Before you get started on your freehand piece itself, paint the background armour panel completely. It’s much easier to paint it now rather than trying to get nice highlights and transitions around your carefully painted freehand.
The colours I’m going to use for the freehand are as follows: For the non-metallic metal (NMM) sections, I’ll use Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Dorn Yellow, and Screaming Skull. For the lion itself I will be using Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer, Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red.
To get started, I first map out the shape and position of the freehand in black. Start in the centre and work your way outwards to allow you to make small corrections as you go. If you try painting the outline straight off there’s a good chance you’ll get the position wrong, and then it’s very hard to change! For the spikes just make small marks for each position to make sure they are spaced correctly. The reason for using black as a base colour is that it’s much easier to build up the highlight positions and use the black as shading, to keep your tonal contrast high. It also means you can use black to correct any mistakes you make.
Once the outline is complete it’s time to move on to the next layer – NMM trim. Start with Rhinox hide and make very large highlight blocks. Remember that the highlights will get smaller and smaller with each layer. I didn’t make a straight copy of the reference artwork, but rather made the lighting come from the top left. This made it look a bit more dramatic and allowed me to build stronger highlights and shadows.
Hard edges and curves reflect the light more strongly, so focus on those areas for the brighter highlights. After the Rhinox Hide, continue adding highlight layers with the remaining NMM colours in the order listed previously. Save the XV-88 for the finest edge highlights.
After all of the trim is painted it’s time to start on the lion. This is where things get tricky! You should have a black, round hole in the middle of the design. Roughly block in the shape of the lion face using Mechanicus Standard Grey. This allows you to get the positioning correct without going over any of the work you’ve just done.
Next begin refining the details of the face with Slaanesh Grey – be careful not to corrupt your Psi-Titan! Imagine the face as a 3D object and try to think where the highlights would naturally fall. I kept the light direction coming from the top left to match the trim.
Now it’s time to start painting the lion’s mane. This is the scary part as it goes over all of the NMM that you’ve carefully painted. I strongly recommend that you take your time and try to be selective with your positioning. Avoid covering the bright point in the top left, as this feature helps make the NMM look metallic and shiny.
I used watered down Mephiston Red to paint in the eye sockets, this makes the lion look extra angry. You should pick out the eyes in Grey Seer, plus any other details can be finished up in this step.
By this stage everything should be starting to come together. One thing I strongly recommend is to take photos of your piece, and look at those rather than the painted model. The freehand is so small that it’s easy to miss mistakes, but on an enlarged photograph, your mistakes will look massive (and terrible)! This might be a difficult step, but it will be much easier to correct your work.
Once the lion’s complete, it’s time for the symbol to be painted on the forehead. Again, start with black to block in the shape, then use the same colours for the NMM. As this area is so small, you don’t need to bother with Rhinox Hide.
Finally, take one last photograph to check everything on the model and then give the whole panel a coat of matte varnish. This will remove any variances in the finish and will make the freehand look like it’s a part of the armour panel. I hope you liked my tips on freehand and if you’d like to learn more tips on freehand techniques from me, please scroll down to explore some videos, like the guide I created alongside this one, or explore the site!
I did a tutorial video alongside this guide, click below to view it!
Freehand Tutorials
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I have to teach you how to paint NMM gold, especially after Games Workshop kindly sent me a review copy of the Age of Sigmar Dominion box, which is full of these golden boys! The first model I decided to paint was this chonky Annihilator!
NMM means (Non Metallic Metal) – so it looks like gold paint, but is painted with “normal” paints. Read on and see!
How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. There are also speed controls, click the little cog and choose a faster speed, if you’d like to speed it up a bit!
How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part Two
Paints and Tools
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Yriel Yellow, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zamesi Desert, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black
P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine)
Step By Step Guide: How to Paint NMM Gold
Step 1: Base Layer – Zamesi Desert:
Start by applying the base layer using Zamesi Desert. Be careful with the application, as it can build up like a dusty layer if you’re sloppy. Use thin layers and consider dry brushing or stippling for a textured effect.
Step 2: Highlights with Scrappy Marks:
Apply the highlights by holding the model under a light source and quickly blocking in where the highlights hit. Use a chunky stippling style for blocking colours on the armour. Quick transitions work well for a better look. Don’t worry about brush marks; the focus is on selling the non-metallic effect.
Step 3: Light Volumes and Reflections:
Focus on getting the light volumes right for the non-metallic metal effect. Reflect other lights around you, similar to how a mirror reflects light. Be aware that some parts may not catch light as desired, but you can tweak it as you go along.
Step 4: Adding White Highlights:
Add white highlights using P3 Morrow White or any white paint of your preference. These highlights will enhance the non-metallic effect. Be mindful of the thickness of the paint, and if needed, glaze over for a refined and neater look.
Step 5: Balancing Highlights:
Maintain consistency in the highlights by holding the model under a light source and blocking in where the highlights hit. Balance is crucial for selling the non-metallic metal effect.
Step 6: Layering and Glazing:
Consider using glazing techniques with colours like Balor Brown or Japanese Uniform to add depth and colour variation. Thin your paints for later stages to achieve refined and smaller marks. Glazing helps neaten and soften the overall look.
Step 7: Additional Details and Contrast:
Add additional details using Rhinox Hide for larger areas to push contrast. Use watered-down Rhinox Hide for subtlety, and consider adding white highlights for reflections.
Step 8: Stippling and Scratching:
Stipple and scratch with a watered-down mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for larger areas. This technique adds texture and a brushed look to the non-metallic gold.
Step 9: Final Touches and Glazing:
Continue blending and refining the paint with scratchy marks. Towards the end, consider glazing to further enhance and refine the non-metallic gold effect. Adjust as needed for a balanced finish.
Learn NMM Like a Pro!
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Ready to try some Grimdark Ultramarines? This how to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine tutorial’s got you covered. We’ll be using an airbrush and some cool oil weathering tricks to turn a plain model into a gritty Ultramarine warrior. From slapping on the base colour to adding those fine details, we’re keeping it real and straightforward.
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue, Blue Horror, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black, (Metal Colour Magnesium, Gold, Chrome) Scale 75: Dwarven Gold Winsor & Newton Oil Colour: Burnt Sienna, Black (Burnt Umber!) Forge World: Dark Sand
How to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine Steps and Tips
Base Coat:Apply Macragge Blue from Games Workshop using an airbrush.Use a small arch surface dry brush for a stippling technique to add colour and texture.Focus on covering all armour panels, avoiding non-blue elements like guns and chainsaws.
Highlighting:Mix airbrush thinner and water.Highlight specific areas (shoulders, head, chest, backpack) using the airbrush.Use Scale 75 Dwarven Gold for golden trim, fixing any mistakes with black paint.
Additional Detailing:Add scratches and dents using a fine brush.Apply subtle highlights using blue and blue horror, keeping it restrained.Avoid excessive highlighting for a balanced appearance.
Purity Seals and Small Details:Optionally detail purity seals and other small features.Experiment with paint mixes for variety.
Oil, Transfers and Weathering:Use micro set to soften transfers and apply them to the model.Coat with gloss varnish and let it dry.Apply oil paints for weathering by dabbing or gently rubbing.Highlight specific areas (knee, shoulder pads, head, hip plate, backpack) with the oil wash.
Final Touches:Paint the eyes using white and carefully add additional highlights.Address any mistakes or mishaps.Reapply highlights using the same colours to make certain areas pop.Use weathering powder for a grounded look on the base.
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This mould lines tutorial shows you how to build and convert Mephiston of the Blood Angels and end up with a result that has no mould lines or gaps.
Tools You Will Need
The following tools were used in the video: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Revell Contacta Plus Glue Greenstuff 2 Part Yellow and Blue epoxy Scalpel Clippers (I used Tamiya 300074123 – Diagonal Cutter)
Step By Step Mould Lines Tutorial
Prepare your ToolsSee above list!
Foot Modification for Custom Base:If planning a custom base, clip off Mephiston’s foot from the base to allow for easier base building later!
Tackle Mould Lines:Identify and remove mould lines using Tamiya Extra Thin, ensuring a smooth and clean surface. Take your time!
Scalpel Precision:Utilise the full length of the scalpel for better control, especially in challenging areas like fabric creases.
Handle Tricky Details:Address challenges with tubes and concave shapes, taking your time to avoid cutting into the model.Inspect and remove mould lines diligently, paying attention to hidden areas like armpits and hair.
Sprue Connection Removal:Cut off tags where the model connects to the sprue and use Tamiya Extra Thin to blend the cut areas seamlessly.
Model Assembly:Use Revel glue for assembly, overloading edges for a strong bond.Scrape away excess glue with a scalpel, mimicking the process of removing mould lines.
Dry Fitting and Final Touches:Perform a dry fit to ensure proper part alignment.Address gaps or imperfections with green stuff for larger spaces.
Adding Movement and Detail:Add movement to elements like Mephiston’s hair using Vallejo model putty for dynamic strands.
Final Inspection:Clean up any excess putty or glue.Inspect the model for visible mould lines or gaps, ensuring a flawless finish.
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This video looks at How to Paint Snikrot the Ork! The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily.
Tools and Paints:
Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner
Step By Step: How to Paint Snikrot the Ork
Priming and Highlighting
Begin with a primed model and apply a highlight using an airbrush and white ink from Vallejo. Thin the white ink with airbrush thinner for a smooth finish.
Ensure the focal points, such as the face and chest, receive extra brightness during airbrushing. The contrast paint naturally enhances shadows and highlights.
Applying Contrast Paints
Use contrast paints for a high tabletop standard. Apply contrast paint to the model, focusing on loading up the brush with a generous amount to let it run into crevices and create shadow effects.
Choose contrast colours based on personal preference, as they all work similarly. I’ve used contrast black (Templar Black) for metal areas.
Leather and Metal Details
Paint leather areas with desert yellow, avoiding excessive thinning as it complements the contrast paints.
For metal areas, use contrast black or any black color of choice. Leave teeth and tongue unpainted, applying a coat of skeleton horde or a chosen pink colour for the tongue.
Matte Varnish
Apply matte varnish to reduce the shiny finish of contrast paints. Vallejo’s matte varnish is recommended for its balanced matte effect.
Use a Wet Palette to Organise Your Paints
Arrange neutral gray, neutral gray mixed with white, black, and dead white for easy access during painting.
Detailing and Highlights
Use grunge brown for detailing and add highlights with desert yellow. Experiment with different water-to-paint ratios for varied effects.
Metallic Effects
Achieve a metallic effect by using opaque white sparingly. Focus on creating highlights on edges and surfaces, making the metal look scratched and darkened.
Creating Texture
Experiment with brushes to create texture on the model. Stipple with an older, worn brush for a more textured effect on specific areas.
Lenses and Final Touches
Paint lenses using turquoise as the base colour and add highlights with Aquamarine or a mix of turquoise and white. Follow a common technique for gem-like effects.
Looking for the Rebecca version?
My wife did an April Fools version of this video, with her voice-over. It can be found below!:
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This free video shows how to paint a Grimdark Black Templar to tabletop standard (make sure you are logged in to view!)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Paints: Games Workshop (Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Yriel Yellow, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull), Vallejo (Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, German Grey, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey), Scale 75 (Necro Gold), P3 (Morrow White)
Oil Colours: Winsor & Newton (Black, Burnt Sienna)
Odorless Mineral Spirit: Winsor & Newton Sansodor
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black
Brushes: Artis Opus Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Varnish: Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish (optional Mecha Gloss Varnish)
How to Paint a Grimdark Black Templar – Step-by-Step Guide:
1. Base Preparation: Prime the model black, leaving the head with blue tack for easier eye painting.
2. Armour Texture and Highlights:
Stipple German Grey (or a dark grey mix) over the armour, focusing on the edges and avoiding leather pouches and shoulder pads. This creates a textured base for highlighting.
Progress with lighter greys, like Basalt and Neutral Grey, using a similar stippling technique. This builds up the highlights and adds depth.
3. Shoulder Pads: Paint shoulder pads with Neutral Grey. This area will eventually be white but start with a grey base to create a grimy look.
4. Masking for Airbrushing: Use putty to mask off areas and airbrush a mix of Morrow White and a touch of Abaddon Black on the shoulder pads, creating a gradient effect.
5. Detailing Black Areas: Use black paint to touch up any overspray from airbrushing, particularly on the armour trim and the Black Templar cross.
6. Leather and Skull: Apply Mournfang Brown to leather areas and the skull. The oil wash will later help blend and shade these parts.
7. Gold Details: Paint gold areas with Necro Gold, watering down the metallics for a smooth finish.
8. Metallics: Fill in all metallic parts with Gunmetal Grey. Oil wash will later enhance these metallics, providing depth and shading.
9. Skull Highlight: Add a quick highlight of Morghast Bone to the skull to make it stand out against the dark base.
10. Verdigris Effect: Apply a mix of Sotek Green and White for a verdigris effect on gold areas, focusing on recesses and crevices.
11. Oil Wash: Mix Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint with mineral spirit and apply generously over the model. This step dramatically alters the model’s look, blending and toning down highlights and adding a weathered effect.
12. Touching up Highlights: Redo the highlights in smaller areas using Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, and Pale Blue Grey. This step refines the highlights post-oil wash.
13. Lenses: Paint the lenses starting with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Evil Sunz Scarlet, Fire Dragon Bright mixed with Yriel Yellow, and finally pure Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect.
14. Final Touches: Reapply metallic paints to certain areas for a contrast boost. Apply final highlights and adjust any last-minute details to your liking.
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This video shows the complete process of how to paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton from the Cursed City boxed game by Games Workshop. The tutorial covers techniques for achieving a worn, non-metallic metal look and provides insights into brush handling, highlighting, and detailing.
The following paints were used in the video:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Cadian Fleshtone, Baharroth Blue, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Basalt Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black, Heavy Grey P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green
Steps And Tips to Paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton
Preparation and Priming:Use Scale 75 surface primer for a matte finish on the Ulfenwatch Skeleton from the Cursed City box game.Remove the tab from the feet for basing without risking damage to your paintwork.
Armour Painting Technique:Start with Vallejo Basalt Gray for non-metallic metal-style armour painting.Use a worn-out brush for a rough look, applying lighter shades on prominent areas and gradually decreasing paint for darker sections.Start on the brightest points for effective highlighting.
Highlighting and Detailing:Apply successive highlights using Basalt Gray, Neutral Gray, Pale Grey Blue, and White to create neater and more defined details on the armourHighlight worn spots, holes, and dents on the armour to add character, ensuring that the marks become neater with each successive highlight.
Shield Painting:Use Mournfang Brown for a bronze/copper look on the shield, focusing on one primary shine point.Highlight points where the light hits the shield, including spikes and creases, using a controlled blobbing technique for added definition.
Face and Eye Painting:Paint the face with Balor Brown, focusing on small, intricate details.Use Yriel Yellow to add a bright edge around the eye sockets for a realistic effect, but keep an eye (ha ha) to ensure you are keeping your lighting consistent throughout the model.Do the process for painting other parts like arms and legs, but beware of overly bright highlights that may distract from focal points.
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These videos will show you how to paint a Death Guard Space Marine, specifically from the Space Marine Heroes collection. These guides will focus on creating a textured, decayed look characteristic of the Death Guard, using various stippling techniques.
Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part OneMaterials NeededStepsTipsVideo – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part TwoAdditional Painting StepsAdditional TipsMore Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!Free Video Tutorials
Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part One
Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Khorne Red, Volupus Pink, Fire Dragon Bright, (alternatively Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for copper effect)
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, (alternatively Old Rose and Salmon Rose)
Brushes: A variety of sizes, including stippling brushes (Artist Opus dry brush or makeup brushes can be used)
Primer: Black primer (Ultimate Primer recommended)
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps
Priming and Base Texture:
Prime the model in black. Start stippling texture onto the armour using Balor Brown. Ensure the paint is diluted (about 50% water) to achieve translucency and avoid excessive build-up.
Layering the Texture:
Continue building texture with Morghast Bone, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Aim for a top-left light perspective.
Dilute your paints as you stipple, gradually building up layers for a controlled, textured effect.
Detailing with Contrast Paint:
Apply Volupus Pink to recesses and bubbly areas on the armour for quick coverage. This helps in defining those decayed spots distinct to Death Guard armour.
Base Colour for Trims and Metals:
Paint all trims and metal areas with watered-down Rhinox Hide. This acts as a base for later metallic effects.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Effect:
For a non-metallic metal look, mix Old Rose with Rhinox Hide and Salmon Rose with Ice Yellow. Layer these mixes to create a copper-like effect, adding Mournfang Brown for warmth.
Highlighting Armour and Details:
Use Screaming Skull to push highlights on the armour. Concentrate on areas like the chest, head, and shoulder pads to draw focus. Stippling Screaming Skull provides a more opaque highlight.
For the pus boils, start with Balor Brown and build up layers with Fist Red for veins. Add Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for highlights, creating a shiny, reflective surface.
Painting Fungus and Red Details:
Base the fungus-like growths with Khorne Red. Create a gradient effect by mixing Khorne Red with Fire Dragon Bright, then highlight with Ice Yellow for a vibrant contrast against the armour.
Tips
Patience is Key: Death Guard models are detailed, so take your time to add depth and texture.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure the light source remains consistent across the model for a cohesive look.
Layering: Gradual layering helps create a more realistic texture, particularly for the decayed look of the Death Guard.
Brush Care: Clean brushes thoroughly between colours, especially when working with stippling techniques.
Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part Two
Continuing from Part 1, let’s delve into completing the Death Guard Space Marine with a focus on the gun, additional weathering effects, and other details. We’ll be using a variety of techniques to add depth and character to the model.
Additional Painting Steps
Gun and Metallics:
Start with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for a coppery effect. Apply these colours to the gun, focusing on light placement and creating non-metallic metal effects.
Use Mournfang Brown and Ice Yellow for richer copper tones. Ensure smooth transitions and consistent light reflection.
Weathering and Verdigris Effect:
For added realism, apply verdigris using Sotek Green. Mix with water (approx. 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply it to recessed areas and around details for an oxidized look.
Add layers of Sotek Green mixed with white for a more pronounced effect. Apply sparingly to avoid overpowering the metallic sheen.
Highlighting and Details:
Highlight the gun and metallic parts with Ice Yellow and a touch of white for glare effects. Be cautious with paint consistency to avoid unwanted textures.
Address the back of the model similarly, but you can opt for brighter highlights as this part is often in shadow during gameplay.
Painting the Backpack and Tentacles:
For the backpack’s tentacle-like extensions, use a mix of Pink Horror, Emperor’s Children, and Fulgrim Pink. Stipple on these colours to create a mottled, organic texture.
Use Averland Sunset or a similar yellow for raised pustules, adding depth and contrast to the tentacles.
Green Goo Effect:
Paint any dripping goo with Moot Green, applying in layers to create a luminous, toxic effect. Highlight edges with Ice Yellow for added vibrancy.
Finishing Touches:
Utilize Corvus Black for deepening shadows and refining details. Water down the paint and apply it as a glaze to enhance contrast and soften textures.
For the final highlights, focus on the model’s focal points, such as the head, chest, and weapon, ensuring they draw the viewer’s attention.
Additional Tips
Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a more natural and controlled effect.
Light Source: Keep the light source consistent across the model for a cohesive appearance.
Weathering Techniques: Experiment with weathering to add character. Verdigris and rust effects can significantly enhance the decayed look of the Death Guard.
Patience: Take your time with details, especially on focal points, to make them stand out.
Brush Care: Maintain your brushes, especially when working with techniques that can be hard on them, like stippling and dry brushing.
More Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!
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A quick and simple video tutorial in how to paint this friendly little Gloomspite Gitz Grot with Contrast paints and apply varnish to bring the colours together and finish the piece. The key is to work fast with Contrast paints, allowing their properties to create natural shadows and highlights, and then refining with traditional paints for a more polished finish.
Video Tutorial – Gloomspite Gitz Grot in Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials List for Painting Gloomspite Gitz with Contrast Paint
Brushes:
Various brushes suitable for applying contrast paints and doing detail work – I use Artist Opus range for details, with a standard general brush for applying the paint more roughly.
Primer:
Vallejo Surface Primer Black: For the initial priming of the models.
Games Workshop Wraithbone spray can: Used for zenithal highlights.
Contrast Paints (Games Workshop)
Black Templar: For dark areas like robes.
Plaguebearer Flesh: For skin.
Iyanden Yellow: For ropes and feet.
Nazdreg Yellow: Alternative option for ropes and feet.
Flesh Tearers Red: For red elements on the models.
Additional Paints:
Games Workshop Daemonette Hide: For highlighting black areas.
Games Workshop Dorn Yellow: For enhancing yellow areas.
Games Workshop Blue Horror: For brighter highlights.
Games Workshop Ceramite White: For final, brightest highlights.
Games Workshop Skavenblight Dinge: For non-metallic metal effects.
Varnish:
AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish: For finishing and protecting the painted models.
Other Materials:
Water for thinning paints and cleaning brushes.
A palette for mixing paints.
Kitchen roll or a similar material for wiping and adjusting brush moisture.
Airbrush (Optional):
Recommended for a smoother zenithal highlight application compared to using a rattle can.
Step-by-Step Guide
Priming and Base Highlights:
Prime the models with Vallejo Surface Primer Black.
Use Games Workshop’s Wraithbone spray for zenithal highlights, creating a directional light effect to enhance contrast paint application.
Applying Contrast Paints:
Start with the skin using Games Workshop’s Plaguebearer Flesh. Be relatively quick and don’t worry excessively about neatness.
For darker areas like robes, use Black Templar. Apply it straight out of the pot, allowing it to flow into recesses.
Paint the ropes and feet with a brown contrast paint like Iyanden Yellow or Nazdreg Yellow.
Use Flesh Tearers Red for red elements, considering multiple coats for a smoother finish.
Additional Details:
For weapons, you can opt for a simple black base and metallic highlights, or try a non-metallic metal (NMM) approach using neutral grays.
To enhance yellow areas that are translucent and show speckles, use Dorn Yellow for edge highlights and additional coats.
Refining and Enhancing:
Use Daemonette Hide to pick out highlights, particularly on black areas. Vertical strokes can emphasize cloth folds.
Add brighter highlights with Blue Horror, focusing on raised areas and edges for a sharper look.
Finalize the highlights with Ceramite White, adding small touches to the most prominent areas.
Correcting Mistakes and Blending:
If you make mistakes or need to blend areas, use appropriate contrast paints or a mix with water for glazing and tinting.
Varnishing:
Once painting is complete, apply an ultra-matte varnish (like AK Interactive Ultra Matte) to unify the finish and protect the paint. This can be done by hand or with an airbrush. Be cautious of pooling and bubbles.
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This video looks at how to paint the Ork special character, Snikrot, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily.
Quick Jump to:
Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!Steps and TipsPriming and HighlightingApplying Contrast PaintPainting DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueSkin HighlightsLeather and StrapsFinal Touches on Metallic AreasLenses and EyesVideo Tutorial – (Richard Version)More Free Video Tutorials
Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner
Steps and Tips
Priming and Highlighting
Prime the model.Apply white ink using an airbrush, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner, focusing on the face and chest for natural light effects.
Applying Contrast Paint
Start with Mantis Warriors Green for the skin. Use a large brush for efficient coverage, allowing the paint to settle in the recesses.For trousers, use Aggaros Dunes, a dark brown contrast paint.Apply another brown contrast paint for the leather areas.Paint all metal areas with Black Legion contrast paint, without worrying about neatness as black will cover any overlapping paint.For bone areas, use Skeleton Horde.
Painting Details
Paint teeth and tongue with Skeleton Horde, and use a pink colour for the tongue.Apply a coat of matte varnish (Mecha Matt Varnish by Vallejo) to reduce the sheen from the contrast paints.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Start with Vallejo Game Colour Neutral Grey for the metallic areas.Create a palette with Neutral Grey, mixed with white and black, and use Dead White for the brightest highlights.
Skin Highlights
Mix Bile Green with white for brighter skin highlights. Focus on the areas where natural light wouldhit, such as the tops of muscles and face.
Leather and Straps
For additional texture and highlights on leather, use Grunge Brown.Apply Desert Yellow for final highlights on leather, following the sculpted creases and stress points.
Final Touches on Metallic Areas
Enhance the metal parts with additional Grunge Brown, focusing on recesses and flat surfaces for a grimy look.Use Dead Flesh for final highlights on metallic areas, achieving a high contrast non-metallic metal effect.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint the lenses starting with Turquoise, followed by Aquamarine for the first highlight.Add a small dot of Dead White at the bottom for a reflective effect.Throughout the process, remember to let each layer dry before applying the next.
Video Tutorial – (Richard Version)
Yep – it was an April Fools! 😀 This was my wife and she wanted to have some fun doing a voice over.She has her own channel here, if you’d like to check out more of her Warhammer New Release unboxings and voice overs, or you can explore them below.
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Welcome to this detailed guide on how to paint the Legio Sinister freehand symbol for a Warlord Titan. I will be using various Games Workshop and Vallejo paints to achieve a polished and striking look. This guide is suitable for intermediate to advanced hobbyists due to the precision required in freehand painting.
Video – Legio Sinister FreehandPaints UsedSteps and Tips for the Legio Sinister FreehandStep By Step Image GuideMore Freehand Tutorials on the WebsiteFree Video Tutorials
Video – Legio Sinister Freehand
All videos are recorded in HD 720p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints Used
Vallejo Model Colour Black
Games Workshop Paints: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer, Mephiston Red, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Dorn Yellow, Screaming Skull
Steps and Tips for the Legio Sinister Freehand
Mapping Out the Position: Begin by using Vallejo Model Colour Black to roughly outline where the symbol will be placed. Start with a small circle at the centre, gradually expanding outwards. Include a line at the top of the curve to centralise the image.
Refining the Shape: Progressively enlarge the symbol, focusing on refining its shape. Paint an approximate circle with spikes extending outward. Ensure even distribution of the black paint to provide a solid base for subsequent layers.
Applying Initial Colours: Commence with Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, applying it as a foundation for the non-metallic parts of the symbol. Layer on XV-88 next, followed by Dorn Yellow, with a focus on the top-left for the lighting direction. Remember, moderate use of Dorn Yellow prevents oversaturation.
Adding Highlights: Employ Screaming Skull to introduce highlights. Be judicious in this step, concentrating on the top left to evoke a lustrous appearance. The XV-88 should remain the predominant colour for the metallic aspects.
Painting the Lion’s Face: Utilise a range of greys (Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer) to depict the lion’s face. Start with basic shapes, refining them progressively. Pay special attention to the eyes, nose, and mouth, building depth with shadows and highlights.
Detailing with Red: Apply a glaze of Mephiston Red for a subtle red glow around the eyes and other facial areas. This step enhances the lion’s fierce visage.
Adding Fur Details: Use greys to render fur details, commencing with darker shades and progressing to lighter highlights. Focus on creating a three-dimensional effect with varied brushstrokes.
Final Details: Paint the Titanicus symbol on the lion’s forehead using black as a base. Layer greys for the non-metallic metal effect, ensuring a thinner central line for a precise appearance. Use Dorn Yellow and Screaming Skull for the highest highlights, ensuring they are well-placed to create a realistic metallic sheen.
Refining and Adjusting: As you near completion, revisit areas that require refinement. This may include sharpening edges, deepening shadows, or enhancing highlights. The key is to achieve a balance between contrast and harmony in the symbol’s details.
Final Touches: Examine the overall piece for any last-minute adjustments. This might involve intensifying certain colours, smoothing transitions, or adding small details to bring the symbol to life. Ensure the lighting direction is consistent and the symbol stands out against the background.
Step By Step Image Guide
The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand and I created an article with step by step imagery for the tutorial above – to view it, visit:
Tips on Freehand – Step-By-Step Image Guide : Adeptus Titanicus
More Freehand Tutorials on the Website
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This free video shows how to paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan for the Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) from the Adeptus Titanicus game.
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black
Steps to Follow on How to Paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan
Preparing the Model
Build the Model: Assemble your Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, leaving off the armour plates for separate painting. This allows easier access to the skeleton for painting in metallic colours.
Painting the Skeleton
Base Coat in Metallic: Start with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron applied with a large soft brush or a dry brush for a smooth metallic base on the skeleton.
Detailing with Copper: Use Games Workshop Hashut Copper for the hips and other details, applying multiple coats as necessary for even coverage. Thin with water if the paint is too thick.
Verdigris Effect: Mix oil paints on cardboard to create a light green verdigris colour. Stipple this onto the copper parts with an old brush, focusing on crevices and rivets. Thin with white spirit for a more natural effect.
Weathering the Metal
Oil Wash: Create an oil wash with black and burnt sienna oil paints thinned with mineral spirits. Apply over the entire metal skeleton, excluding verdigris areas, to add depth and an oily finish.
Highlighting: Highlight edges and raised details with Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome for a sharp contrast.
Painting the Armour Panels
Base Coat in Blue: Airbrush the panels with Games Workshop Night Lords Blue, followed by highlights with Calgar Blue focusing on upper sections and curves.
Detailing Stripes and Flames: For striped areas, use Tamiya masking tape and Vallejo Dark Sea Grey. For flames, start with Balor Brown as a base, building up to lighter tones and finally white for the hottest parts.
Applying Decals: Use Forge World or Games Workshop decals for additional detailing, sealing them with Microset or Microsol. I’ve put a link to another free video on how to do that, below!
Final Weathering: Apply oil washes for weathering effects, focusing on creating streaks and grime accumulation that fits with the battlefield-worn look.
How to Apply Forge World Decals and Weather Them
A beginners guide on how to apply Forge World decals and weather them so they look a natural part of the painting on your model. Painting and applying decals to your models adds significant details and realism, making it stand out during tabletop gaming. It’s also a lot easier than freehand! I still use decals a lot in my models, despite also enjoying freehand work.
Watch and Read Now
Finishing Touches
Painting Trim and Details: Use Scale 75 Necro Gold for gold trim, applying carefully around edges and details. For a brighter highlight, apply Vallejo Metal Colour Gold.
Matte Varnish: Seal the entire model with an ultra-matte varnish to tie together the different finishes and protect the paintwork.
Optional Ribbon Streamers: Create custom ribbon streamers from plastic card, painted and detailed to match the Titan’s colour scheme, adding dynamism and a personalised touch to your model.
Additional Tips
Always thin your paints to ensure smooth application and avoid obscuring fine details.
When working with oil paints for weathering, allow ample drying time between layers to prevent smudging.
Use a hairdryer to speed up drying times cautiously, avoiding too much heat on plastic parts.
Experiment with lighting and colour modulation on the armour panels for a dynamic appearance.
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This video shows the whole process of how to paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist for Warhammer 40,000, plus a step by step text guide.
Tool and Paints
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Balor Brown, XV-88
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Black, (Metal Colour Magnesium)
P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine)
Scale 75: Dwarven Gold, Neco Gold
Winsor & Newton: Oil Colour: Burnt Sienna, Black, Sansodoor solvent
Step by Step Guide : How to Paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist
Step 1: Base Coating with XV-88
Start with a model primed in black and assembled (except for head and backpack).
Use XV88 paint directly from the pot and scrunch it onto a piece of paper towel.
Stipple the paint onto the model with a large brush to cover all armour panels.
Stab the marine harshly with the stippling brush to create texture.
Don’t worry about getting paint on other parts; focus on covering armour panels thoroughly.
Step 2: Adding Baylor Brown Highlights
Switch to a smaller brush for precision.
Use Balor Brown paint and continue stippling, focusing on areas with prominent curves (shoulder pads, backpack, head).
Highlight the model by emphasizing the curves for a top-down lighting effect.
Step 3: Airbrushing with Yriel Yellow and Ice Yellow
Thin Yriel Yellow paint with airbrush thinner in a wet palette.
Apply a thin coat with an airbrush, blending and smoothing the texture.
Use Ice Yellow with the airbrush to highlight specific metal areas (gun, joints, recesses).
Step 4: Red Trim with Mephiston Red
Paint the trim on the marine in red using Mephiston Red paint.
Avoid painting directly from the pot; thin the paint with water to achieve the right consistency.
Focus on essential highlights rather than painting every edge.
Step 5: Final Highlights and Stippling
Use worn-out brushes for final highlights, adding details to areas with texture or leftover stippling.
Stipple lightly to blend and enhance highlights.
Step 6: Weathering with Sotek Green and Verdigris
Apply Sotek Green for verdigris weathering on the chest piece.
Water down the paint and run it into recesses for a weathered effect.
Step 7: Apply Decals and Micro Set
Glue the head on to avoid wobbly head issues.
Apply decals using Micro Set for adhesion.
Skip Micro Sol; Micro Set alone is sufficient for shaping decals.
Step 8: Oil Wash with Agrax Earthshade
Thin Agrax Earthshade with some Sansodor to create a wash.
Apply the wash generously over the model, allowing it to settle in recesses.
Wipe off excess if needed.
Step 9: Final Touches and Stippling
Stipple over highlights again to clean up and enhance contrast.
Use Metal Colour Magnesium paint on lower areas (shin, foot) for a dirty, textured effect.
Focus on making the knee pad stand out and eliminating unwanted highlights.
Step 10: Eyes and Final Details
Paint eyes with a mix of Sotek Green and Metal Colour Magnesium for a glowing effect.
Add final details as needed, keeping the overall grimy and weathered appearance.
Free Video Tutorials
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This video looks at how to paint the head of the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon. The video looks at the textured bone, how to add colour and interest and then how to add verdigris and NMM to the bronze trim.
Video – How to Paint the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon Head
Paints and Materials Used on the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon
Paints:
Games Workshop Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Skavenblight Dinge, (Skeleton Horde Contrast optional)
Kimera Colours: Fallen Grass (Sybarite Green as an alternative)
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun (Balor Brown alternative)
Brushes and Tools:
Artis Opus Small Dry Brush: Used for stippling the base coat and first highlights.
Size 2 Brush (Old): Ideal for glazing with Scavenblight Dinge and applying the verdigris effect on metallic elements. An older brush is recommended as the techniques used can be rough on the bristles.
Size Z00 Brush: Used for finer detail work, such as adding texture to the verdigris effect. However, a larger brush may be more efficient for larger areas.
Size 1 Brush: Recommended for applying non-metallic metal highlights. An older brush is suitable as long as it maintains a good point.
Wet Palette: Handy for keeping your paint mixes workable and blending colours.
Kitchen Roll: For dabbing off excess paint and ensuring the right consistency on the brush.
Water Pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes.
Step-by-Step Guide to Painting the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon
Step 1: Base Coat
Create a mix of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 in approximately a 50/50 ratio. The exact mix isn’t crucial, but aim for a reddish-brown shade.
Thin this mixture with water (about two parts water to one part paint).
Using an Artist Opus small dry brush, apply this mixture to the dragon head using a stippling method. Ensure the brush is damp, not wet, to avoid a dusty look.
Cover the entire surface, allowing the small dots of paint to create texture. This might require two to three layers for opaque coverage.
Step 2: First Highlight
Switch to Morghast Bone for the next layer of highlight.
Again, thin the paint (similar ratio as before) and dab off excess paint on kitchen roll before applying.
Stipple Morghast Bone more selectively, focusing on creating a transition from darker to lighter areas.
Pay special attention to the metal crests and teeth-like protrusions, ensuring they are light enough for later glazing.
Step 3: Final Highlight
Move on to Screaming Skull for the highest highlights.
Apply this colour even more sparingly and delicately, focusing on the most raised areas and textures.
Remember, this is not dry brushing. Dab the brush straight onto the model to create the desired texture.
Step 4: Painting the Teeth
Start with the base colours used for the bone and apply them with a normal brush for a smoother finish.
For the top teeth, paint from the bottom upwards. This creates a shiny effect, with the brightest part of the tooth at the top.
Use Screaming Skull for the very top section of the teeth to enhance the shiny look.
Step 5: Softening Textures
Use Scavenblight Dinge to soften the texture on the skull.
Thin the paint significantly (about three to four parts water to one part paint).
Apply with a large brush, focusing on midtones to shadows to enhance depth and contrast.
Step 6: Glazing and Highlighting
Return to the mixture of XV-88 and Mournfang Brown, now very watered down.
Glaze around the teeth and other areas to add warmth and contrast, separating different elements like teeth from the skull.
Step 7: Additional Details and Glazing
Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull to pick out details, focusing on areas like the eye sockets and brow for added focus.
For the bone spikes, start glazing with Rhinox Hide, thinned down.
Progress from Rhinox Hide to a black colour (like Vallejo Model Color Black), applying from halfway down the bone spike towards the tip, creating a dark gradient.
Step 8: Metallic Elements
Base the metal parts with Mournfang Brown.
Apply a wash of Fallen Grass, heavily watered down (five parts water to one part paint), focusing on recesses.
Follow up with black lining for added definition, using watered-down black paint.
Step 9: Non-Metallic Metal Highlights
Create a palette with Mournfang Brown, a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun, Dark Sun, Dark Sun mixed with white, and pure white.
Start with the darker mixes and progressively highlight with lighter mixes, focusing on edges and areas where wear would naturally occur.
Add finer highlights and scratches with the lightest mixtures.
Step 10: Finishing Touches
Revisit areas with Scavenblight Dinge for further softening and definition.
Optionally, add warmth with a glaze of Mournfang Brown and XV-88, or Skeleton Horde Contrast for subtlety.
Explore more Old World and Bone Tutorials!
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This video looks at how to paint a Deathwing Terminator from the new Leviathan boxed set, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.
Video – How to Paint a Deathwing Terminator
The following paints were used
Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow
Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic)
P3: Morrow White
Step by Step Guide
Preparation and Priming:
Assemble the Deathwing Terminator, modifying as desired (e.g., swapping weapons).
Prime the model in black.
Base Coat and Airbrush Highlighting:
Apply a base coat of XV-88.
Highlight with Morghast Bone using an airbrush, focusing on natural light areas.
Applying Contrast Paint:
Mix Darkoath Flesh with Contrast Medium and cover the Deathwing Terminator, emphasising recesses over large, smooth areas.
Highlighting and Texturing:
Hand apply highlights and textures using Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull, targeting brighter airbrushed areas.
Detailing with Black Paint:
Paint areas destined for other colours (metal, red, green) with Black Templar Contrast or thinned black paint.
Metallic Parts:
Apply Vallejo Gunmetal Grey to metal parts.
Use Agrax Earthshade for a matte effect.
Add highlights with Chrome.
Red Areas (Eyes, Lenses, Purity Seals):
Base with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black.
Progressively highlight with Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red.
Green Areas (Chest Eagle):
Base in Vallejo Game Colour Dark Green.
Add highlights by progressively mixing in white.
Bone Armour Texturing and Detailing:
Further texture and scratch effects using Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Screaming Skull.
Mix Morghast Bone with a bit of Mournfang Brown for shadows.
Chest Eagle and Purity Seal Text:
Use fine brushwork for text effects on purity seals with black paint.
Final Highlights and Details:
Apply final highlights with Screaming Skull or white, focusing on areas for maximum contrast.
Blend and soften with Neutral Grey glazing.
Basing:
Base the Deathwing Terminator as preferred, employing sand texturing, painting rocks in German Grey and Neutral Grey, and adding grass tufts.
Finishing Touches:
Add chips and scratches across the armour with Rhinox Hide and Screaming Skull.
Enhance details and edge highlights to complete your Deathwing Terminator!
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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This video shows how to paint some tanks for the Solar Auxilia faction of Legions Imperialis. Plus, I’ve included a little step-by-step guide underneath on the key points of the video!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Agrax Earthshade, Skeleton Horde Contrast, Sotek Green, Moot Green, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Rhinox HideVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Copper P3: Morrow White Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (series 1 oil paint), Black, Sansodoor mineral spirit For melting decals onto models : Micro Set
Step-by-Step Guide:
Prepare the Base Coat:Use an airbrush for efficiency in batch painting for your large Legions Imperialis faction.Mix Vallejo Neutral Gray with airbrush thinner (30 PSI, 50/50 ratio with thinner).Apply the base coat evenly to the entire tank. Consider using gray primer for a quicker and better result.Layering for Opaque Finish:Apply two or three layers of paint, especially for lighter colours like Pale Blue Gray Blue and Morrow White.Account for the drying effect, as colours may appear brighter when wet and darker when dry.Ensure a smooth and opaque finish by layering.
Weathering Techniques:Stipple Rhinox Hide for additional details, using a foam piece held by tweezers.Apply weathering heavily to achieve a worn and battle-hardened look.Consider the impact areas for realistic weathering, such as edges and front sections.
Adding Red Markings:Use Evil Suns Scarlet for red markings.Differentiate leader tanks by adding a red turret.Apply the red markings consistently across Legions Imperialis tanks for uniformity.
Metallic and Lens Details:Use Exhaust Manifold by Vallejo for metallic parts.Apply Agrax Earthshade for a wash over the metallic sections.Paint lenses black and highlight with a mix of black and white in three stages.
Final Touches:Add decals before applying any oil wash to blend them with the weathering.Consider adding additional details like hazard stripes or cables for higher-level detailing.Apply a final matte varnish or Games Workshop fixative to set the weathering powder and prevent rubbing off.
Optional Colour Variations:Experiment with different colours based on personal preferences.Lighter colours with heavy weathering can enhance contrast and visibility in smaller scale models.Customise the Legions Imperialis tanks according to your gaming preferences.
Final Assessment and Variations:Assess the overall look of the Legions Imperialis tank for any additional highlighting or weathering needed.Consider variations in colours and markings for a diverse tank fleet.Keep in mind that the level of detail can be adjusted based on personal preferences and the purpose of the painted tanks (e.g., gaming).!
More videos!
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This video tutorial looks at how to paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paints, using a couple of the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and specifically using ‘Imperial Fist’ paint! I also go through top techniques and tips you can use on all your Space Marines.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints and materials were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust Manifold
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Micro Set
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00,
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
Preparing the Base Coat
Start with Mournfang Brown as the base coat. This provides a solid foundation and eliminates black elements that might affect the final colour. Apply a thin, even layer to ensure a smooth finish.
Creating a Pre-Shade Effect
To create a pre-shade effect, mix P3 Morrow White with Mournfang Brown. This technique helps in achieving both highlights and shadows in one go. Avoid taking the pre-shade highlight all the way up to pure white unless you desire a very bright yellow.
Applying Imperial Fist Contrast Paint
Use the Imperial Fist contrast paint, a bright yellow, over the pre-shaded model. This contrast paint is translucent and needs a light base for optimal results. Apply it evenly, focusing on the model’s raised areas to enhance the pre-shade effect. If the first coat appears too orange, apply a light layer of P3 Morrow White on the desired areas and reapply the contrast paint for a brighter yellow.
Enhancing Highlights with White
For areas requiring a more vibrant yellow, directly apply P3 Morrow White using an airbrush. This step significantly brightens up the yellow tones, providing a more striking appearance to the model.
Adding Depth with Contrast Paints
Experiment with Rattling Grime contrast paint for adding depth. If it appears too dark, dilute it with Contrast Medium. Apply it sparingly, especially in recessed areas, to create natural shadows.
Applying Matte Varnish
Once the contrast paints are dry, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This helps to dull any unwanted shine and sets the base for further detailing.
Glazing with Yriel Yellow
Create a glaze by heavily thinning down Yriel Yellow with water. Apply this glaze selectively to the model’s raised areas, building up the colour in thin layers. This process enhances the vibrancy of the yellow and adds more dimension.
Detailing with Additional Colours
Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for detailing elements like scroll work. These colours contrast well with the yellow and bring out the finer details. For battle damage, use Rhinox Hide or a similar dark colour to create chips and scratches.
Highlighting Battle Damage
Mix Yriel Yellow with a bit of white (or use Dawn Yellow) for highlighting the lower edges of the battle damage. This creates a more realistic chipped paint effect.
Painting the Weapon
For the bolter or other weapons, use a combination of German Grey and Neutral Grey from Vallejo. Apply them in a gradient for a realistic metallic effect, and use black to blend and soften transitions.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint lenses and eyes using Sotek Green, gradually adding white to the mix for successive highlights. Ensure the brightest highlights are off-centre for a natural glow effect.
Finishing Touches
Finally, apply Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand to the base and lower parts of the legs for a gritty, battle-worn look. Seal with a matte varnish to fix the powder in place.
More Contrast Paint Tutorial and Projects
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step Guide
Want more? Download the detailed PDF guide!
If you’ve enjoyed the video and want to take your painting to the next level, don’t forget to download the accompanying PDF guide. This extra resource provides step-by-step instructions, close-up insights, and useful tips to help you perfect the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold technique on Rogal Dorn’s armour. Whether you’re watching the video or painting at your own pace, the guide is here to ensure you achieve the best results.
Download the PDF Guide and master the art of NMM gold!
Read Now
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Here is a kit review for the New Trugg the Troggoth King from the Gloomspite Gitz army. I also show how to fill in gaps in the plastic using Sprue Glue.
Tools Used on Trugg the Troggoth King
Sprue glue (made from Tamia extra thin glue and waste sprue)
Tamiya extra thin glue
Tamiya sanding pads
Modelling putty (optional, mentioned as an alternative to sprue glue for a longer but more detailed process)
Sandpaper
Step by Step Guide
Begin by assembling the model, focusing on its open design to make painting easier.Glue the model together, leaving only the head separate for more detailed painting.
Notice join lines, especially on areas like horns, where the gaps are obvious and need attention
Prepare sprue glue by cutting waste sprue from a plastic kit.Place the sprue pieces into a container with Tamiya extra thin glue, ensuring the consistency is not too thin.
Use the sprue glue to fill join lines by blobbing it onto the gaps.Ensure the sprue glue is thick enough, containing sufficient plastic material.
After applying sprue glue, use Tamiya extra thin glue to blend and smooth the surface.Work the extra thin glue to create a seamless transition, eliminating hard, bumpy edges.
Cut off excess sprue glue after it has been applied and blended.Allow the model to dry overnight for the sprue glue to set completely.If desired, go back and sand over the top for a smoother finish.Use Tamiya sanding pads or similar tools for flexibility, especially on organic shapes
Prime the model after gap-filling to see how well the join lines have vanished.Note any minor indentations, which can be painted over as part of the organic shape.
If there are concerns with the sculpting of rock parts or moss details, sneakily mask them by adding additional textures using materials like sand or other textured elements.
More Assembly Tutorials
Lots More Tutorials!
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This video takes a look at the distortion on the marines and tries to fix the issue. Legions Imperialis was sent to me by Games Workshop as an early review copy.
In this video, I’m tackling a little issue with the Legions Imperialis Marines from the latest game. These guys are small, about 9 millimeters tall and they’ve got some quirks…
So, in this tutorial, I’m walking you through how I clean them up. I grab a trusty scalpel, trim off the excess plastic, and then work some magic with Tamia extra thin glue to make it all smooth and polished.
Steps to Fix the Legions Imperialis
Step 1: Identify IssuesStart by examining the Legions Imperialis Marines for any deformities or excess plastic.Note specific areas that need attention, such as the back of the gun, gaps between limbs, or any other noticeable imperfections.Step 2: Gather MaterialsObtain a scalpel, ensuring it is sharp for precision.Prepare Tamiya extra thin glue or a similar product for smoothing and blending the cut areas.Have your choice of paints ready for later stages.Step 3: Cut Excess PlasticCarefully use the scalpel to cut away excess plastic, following the natural lines of the model.Focus on areas where the deformities are most prominent, like the back of the gun or gaps between limbs.Be careful, as the models are small, and small, deliberate movements are essential.Step 4: Clean Up the CutsUse the scalpel to clean up the cut areas, creating a neat and smooth finish.Don’t worry too much about perfect precision, as the Tamiya glue will help blend and soften the edges later.Step 5: Address Specific IssuesPay extra attention to problematic areas, such as gaps between limbs or any distorted sections.Address these issues with precise cuts and clean-ups to improve the overall appearance.Step 6: Apply Tamiya Extra Thin GlueRun Tamiya extra thin glue over the cut areas to soften and blend the plastic.This step is crucial for achieving a seamless look and hiding any imperfections from the cuts.Step 7: PaintingOnce the glue has dried, proceed with painting the Legions Imperialis Marines! Why not follow one of my tutorials?
While this process may seem meticulous, it’s essential to note that the level of detail and effort put into fixing the models is a personal choice. Not everyone may find it necessary, especially for gaming purposes. However, for those who are particular about the appearance of their models, these steps offer a solution to improve the overall look of the Legions Imperialis Marines.
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In this free video you will be shown how to paint a Night Lords Praetor in terminator armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Kantor Blue, Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue (optional), Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Firedragon Bright, Baneblade Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Balor Brown, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Windsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron Scale 75: Elven Gold (optional)P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step by Step : How to paint a Night Lords Praetor
Painting Steps:
Priming and Assembly: Assemble your model fully and prime it in black. In this case, the head is already glued in, making it slightly more challenging to paint.
Base Layering: Start with Night Lords Blue, diluted roughly 50:50 with water. Use a small dry brush or makeup brush to stipple the paint onto the model, ensuring to get into all the recesses.
Progressive Highlights: Apply subsequent layers of Kantor Blue, then Macragge Blue. With each layer, be less vigorous and focus more on areas where light naturally hits.
Detailing with a Small Brush: For hard-to-reach areas like the chest, use a small brush to apply highlights.
Final Highlighting: If desired, add a final stage of highlighting with Calgar Blue, although its translucency can be less satisfying. A mix of Macragge Blue and white can be more effective.
Blocking in Other Colours: Apply base colours for other parts of the model, such as Mephiston Red for red areas, Baneblade Brown for leather straps, and Balor Brown for skulls and bones.
Metallics and Golds: Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron and golden areas with Scale 75 Elven Gold.
Gloss Varnish and Oil Wash: Once all base colors are blocked in, apply Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish. Follow this with a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint thinned with mineral spirits. Apply it liberally over the model and then remove excess with a clean brush dipped in mineral spirits.
Matte Varnish: After the oil wash has dried, apply Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish to prepare the model for further acrylic painting.
Refining Highlights: Revisit areas with acrylic highlights, enhancing details and cleaning up where necessary.
Lightning Effect: Use a mix of Macragge Blue and white, then pure white, to paint lightning effects on armor panels.
Finishing Touches: Add final details to the model such as eye lenses, further skull highlighting, and final metallic edge highlights.
Base Detailing: For the base, use Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand over glued sand for a realistic texture.
Additional Tips on how to paint a Night Lords Praetor:
Keep the paint consistency thin to avoid losing details.
Use stippling and careful brushwork to create texture and depth.
Be patient with the oil wash and varnish steps, as they significantly enhance the final look.
Experiment with the lightning effect to create dynamic visual interest on the armor.
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If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
These videos shows how to paint an Ork Beastboss to a high level tabletop standard.In them, we are aiming to achieve a rugged, battle-worn look, emphasising strong contrasts and weathered metallics.
Quick Jump to:
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part OneMaterials NeededStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossVideo – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part TwoPaints UsedStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossPDF GuideFree Video Tutorials
There is also a detailed 26 page PDF guide for this model, which can be found here.
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Ork Beastboss Miniature
Brushes: Various sizes for different techniques
Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast)
Vallejo Paints: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow
P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white will do)
Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss
Priming and Zenithal Highlighting:
Prime the model black and apply a zenithal highlight using Vallejo Pale Grey Blue. This creates natural shadows and highlights, guiding future paint layers.
Skin Tones:
Paint the Ork’s flesh using a 50/50 mix of Ork Flesh Contrast and Contrast Medium. This enables some of the grey from the zenithal highlighting to show through, providing a guide for later highlights.
Fur and Details:
Apply Skeleton Horde Contrast directly for fur, ensuring highlights are visible.
Use Volupus Pink Contrast for lizard-like skin textures and Blood Angel Red Contrast for the top knot and tassel.
Armour and Metallics:
Paint areas intended to be bronzy or gold with Gryph-Hound Orange Contrast. This creates a dark orange base over the light grey zenithal highlights.
For black areas or parts you want darker, mix Black Templar Contrast with Contrast Medium and apply.
Bronze Metallics:
Start painting the skeleton head and other bronzy parts. Use scratchy, rough strokes to build up layers, starting from a darker base and gradually adding lighter colours for highlights.
Highlight Placement:
Follow the guide provided by the zenithal priming for light placement, enhancing it with further highlights where needed.
Steel Armor:
For a steel-like finish on certain armour parts, use a similar scratchy technique, starting with Vallejo Dark Sea Grey and building up to lighter greys and whites.
Weathering and Rust:
Add weathering using Mournfang Brown and Trollslayer Orange, focusing on recessed areas, rivets, and parts where rust naturally accumulates.
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part Two
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast) Vallejo: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White (Any white will do)
Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss
Picking up from where we left off in the first guide…
1. Sword (Big Chopper) with Rusty Texture
Base Layer: Start with Rhinox Hide, using a scribbly and scratchy technique similar to the armour’s style. This creates a dark base for the flat of the blade. If Rhinox Hide is unavailable, mix Mournfang Brown with Black for a close approximation.
Stippling Technique: Apply Mournfang Brown with stippling, creating a rusty texture. Remember, the paint can be a bit thicker here to add texture.
Additional Rust Effect: Use Trollslayer Orange for more rust detail, focusing on areas like the top hook of the blade. This paint is slightly translucent, so you might need to layer it for a stronger effect.
2. Highlighting the Blade
Scratches and Cutting Edge: Use lighter colours like Pale Grey Blue and White to highlight and define scratches and the cutting edge of the blade. This gives a contrasting effect to the rusty areas.
Bounce Highlights: Consider adding bounce highlights to reflect the battlefield’s environment, like green reflections for a green terrain.
3. Horns and Fur
Base Colours: Use the same colours as the blade for consistency. Start with a mix of Rhinox Hide and Morghast Bone.
Highlighting: Gradually lighten the base with pure Morghast Bone and then Screaming Skull, focusing more on the base of the horns and the top of the fur for a natural gradient.
4. The Face
Initial Layers: Begin with a base of Warboss Green. You might need several layers due to its translucency. To reduce the shine from contrast paints, apply an ultra-matte varnish partway through the painting process.
Detailing: Add more detail than is sculpted, especially around the temple and eyes, to create a more menacing look. Use Warboss Green mixed with Screaming Skull for highlights, making the face a focal point.
5. Teeth and Bone Decorations
Base Colour: For teeth and bone-like decorations, start with a base of Balor Brown.
Texture Technique: Use a stippling and scratchy technique for texture, similar to the horns and fur.
6. Red Hair
Base and Highlights: Start with a base of Evil Sunz Scarlet. For highlighting, mix in a bit of white for a slightly pinkish hue, but be careful not to overdo it.
Detailing: Use vertical strokes to highlight, focusing on the strands without overly brightening the recesses.
7. Loin Cloth (Lizard Skin)
Base Layer: Use Xereus Purple over a base that was previously primed and given a coat of Volupus Pink.
Highlighting: Highlight selectively, focusing on larger scales and facets. Use lighter shades of purple mixed with white for the highlights, but remember to keep the overall area dark for contrast.
8. Verdigris Effect on Bronze Areas
Base Colour: Apply Sotek Green, watered down for a flowing effect into recesses.
Layering: Add white to Sotek Green for progressive highlights, focusing on the darker areas and avoiding the brightest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
9. Back to the Face
Detailed Texturing: Add more detailed textures to the face using the lighter green mixture, emphasizing areas where light hits directly.
Balancing Highlights: Alternate between highlighting and shading to balance the contrast and maintain the focus on the face.
10. Finishing the Eyes
Initial Layers: Start with a base of Pearl Grey Blue, then define the iris with Sotek Green.
Highlighting: Use lighter shades of blue for the lower parts of the eyes. For the final highlights, map out the placement with the first highlight blue, focusing on the top left to represent the light source.
11. Final Touches
Teeth and Tongue: Paint teeth in Balor Brown and adjust the tongue if needed.
Bone Decorations: Add final touches to bone decorations, ensuring they stand out against the hair.
Red Hair: Refine the highlights and ensure they blend well with the base colour.
And there you have it, your Ork Beastboss is now ready for battle, boasting a range of textures and colours, all contributing to its fierce and battle-worn appearance. For more detailed instruction, check out the PDF Guide!
PDF Guide
I have also created a detailed 26 page PDF guide on painting this model, that can be found here for full website members:
How to Paint an Ork Beastboss – PDF
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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Two videos on how I painted this Rockgut Troggoth quickly using Contrast Paints, with step by step guides to the methods I used with which paints. Read on and good luck!
Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step GuideVideo Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsMaterials and Paints:StepsShow it off!More Free Video Tutorials
Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints and Materials Needed
Black Primer
Wraithbone (Games Workshop)
Contrast Paints (Magos Purple, Skeleton Horde, Wyldwood, Aethermatic Blue, Black Templar – all from Games Workshop)
P3 Morrow White (or any alternative white paint)
Fine Brushes
Airbrush (optional)
Wet Palette
Step by Step Guide
Base Coating with Contrast Paints: After priming your Rockgut Troggoth with black and then applying a zenithal highlight of Wraithbone (using an airbrush or rattle-can), start applying contrast paints. Focus on using Magos Purple for the skin, being generous with the paint to ensure proper flow and coverage.
Handling Overpainting and Pooling: If you accidentally overpaint or encounter pooling, use a clean brush to soak up the excess. Remember, contrast paints are designed to settle in recesses, so a heavier application is acceptable.
Painting Other Elements: Use different contrast paints for various parts of the model. Apply Skeleton Horde for the teeth, toenails, and wrappings, and Wildwood for the hammer’s handle. The nature of contrast paints means they will flow into crevices and recesses, creating natural shadows.
Applying Contrast to the Rocky Skin: For the rocky skin and other stone-like textures, use Aethermatic Blue. The contrast paints will naturally create a depth effect, with darker areas in recesses and brighter highlights on raised surfaces.
Utilising Black Templar for Darker Areas: Apply Black Templar contrast paint for the rock elements and the loincloth. This step will provide a solid base and emphasise the darker regions of the Troggoth.
Review and Adjust: Once all the contrast paints are applied, review your model. The use of different contrast paints should have already created a variety of tones and shades on the model. If necessary, touch up any areas where the paint may have pooled excessively or where coverage is uneven.
Enhancing Highlights on the Skin: To enhance the skin, mix some P3 Morrow White with Magos Purple to create a light purple hue. Apply this mixture to the skin’s raised areas, following the zenithal highlights you established earlier. This step will add more depth and dimension to the Troggoth’s skin.
Adding Detail to Crystal Skin: For the crystal-like skin, create a mixture of Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue. Focus on painting the flat, upward-facing surfaces of the crystals to mimic the appearance of hard, reflective edges.
Video Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints
Materials and Paints:
Games Workshop: Magos Purple (Contrast), Plaguebearer Flesh (Contrast), Slaanesh Grey, Daemonette Hide, Balor Brown, Moot Green, XV-88, Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone, Naggaroth Night
Vallejo: Ice Yellow (or Dorn Yellow)
P3: Morrow White (or White Scar)
Steps
Rock-Like Skin Textures:
Mix Aethermatic Blue with white for a greeny-grey shade.
Apply to the flat surfaces and edges of the rocky textures.
Highlight with pure white (Morrow White/White Scar).
Skin Highlights:
Use pre-mixed Magos Purple and white for primary skin highlights.
Add secondary highlights with Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide, focusing on reflective light areas.
Wood Detailing:
Apply Balor Brown for the base wood grain on the mallet.
Highlight progressively with XV-88 and Zandri Dust.
Final highlights with Ushabti Bone.
Rock and Wood Texturing:
Glaze rock textures with Naggaroth Night to deepen shadows.
Lightly glaze wood with Plaguebearer Flesh for a mossy effect.
Loincloth and Trinkets:
Base the loincloth with XV-88, highlight with Zandri Dust, and then Ushabti Bone.
Paint trinkets starting with XV-88, highlight with Balor Brown, then Ice Yellow for brightest points.
Final Highlights and Adjustments:
Reapply Magos Purple and white mix on skin for final highlights.
Highlight rock textures with Morrow White.
Apply Moot Green selectively for contrast, especially in shadows.
Unify with Naggaroth Night glaze to smooth transitions and deepen shadows.
Troggoth Eyes and Claws:
Base eyes with Yriel Yellow, add a white dot for the pupil.
Claw highlights with Ushabti Bone for depth.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads
Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger
Preparation:
Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set.
Prime the model with black primer.
Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!)
Helmet Painting:
Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet.
Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls.
Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering.
Metal Painting:
Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects.
Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone.
Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture.
Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas.
Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections.
Leather Parts:
Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide.
Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look.
Highlighting:
Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks.
For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference.
Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast.
For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core.
Skin Painting:
Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown.
Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white.
Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather.
Final Details:
Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look.
Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect.
Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect.
Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions.
Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting!
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The most powerful model from the Age of Sigmar Dominion box!
I thought it was time that I painted the most powerful model from the new Age of Sigmar Dominion box! It’s the mighty Stab-Grot!
Materials Required:
Stab Grot miniature, fully assembled and primed with Scale 75 Surface Black Primer
Paints: Games Workshop (Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Firedragon Bright, Daemonette Hide, Sotek Green, XV-88, Moot Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet), Vallejo (Ice Yellow, Black, Neutral Grey, White, German Grey, Pale Grey Blue)
Brushes, including a fine detail brush (size 00 recommended)
Painting Process:
Base Layers: Begin with Vallejo German Grey, applying it to the armoured parts using a scratchy technique. Concentrate on lighter points where light naturally falls (shoulder, forearm), but ensure even coverage.
Adding Tones: Apply Daemonette Hide for a subtle hint of colour. Use the same method as with German Grey but in smaller areas, allowing the underlying grey to show through for texture.
Highlights and Shading: Combine Pale Grey Blue and Daemonette Hide for highlights. Aim for a grimy, non-polished metal appearance. Use white sparingly to highlight edges and dents.
Skin Tones: Start with Sotek Green, progressively adding Moot Green and white for highlights. Focus on creating soft transitions with diluted paint for a realistic skin effect.
Leather Details: Base with Rhinox Hide, then layer with XV-88 and Cadian Fleshtone, concentrating on edges and scratches. Use watered-down Mournfang Brown for a glazing effect, softening the highlights.
Red Cloth: Base with Mephiston Red, layering for opacity. Highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet, careful not to overdo it to preserve the red’s vibrancy.
Final Touches: Add final details such as rust on the blade with Mournfang Brown and scratches with Ice Yellow. Remember, moderation is key for a realistic weathered look.
Tips for Success:
Pay attention to natural light fall for realistic highlights and shadows.
Use a scratchy technique for armour to create texture and a weathered appearance.
Thin your paints for smoother transitions, especially on the skin.
Avoid over-highlighting reds to prevent a pink or orange shade.
Patience and attention to detail are vital for a small, detailed model like Stab Grot.
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This video shows the complete process for How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator from Games Workshop including a step by step text guide and full list of colours needed.
Paints and Tools
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Warpstone Glow, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Lothern Blue, Blue Horror, XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Fire Dragon Bright, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Pale Grey Blue, White Grey, Ice Yellow
How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator
Step 1: Base Coating with Airbrush
Ensure the model is completely built and primed.
Separate the model into two sections for easier painting.
Use an airbrush with a 0.4 sized nozzle to apply a base coat of red at the top and blue at the bottom.
Mask off areas to avoid overspray and focus on highlighting towards the head and shoulders.
Step 2: Adding Highlights with Airbrush
Use Mephiston Red for the red sections and Fire Dragon Bright for the blue sections.
Be cautious with lighter colours as they can be challenging to airbrush without speckles.
Pay attention to angles to avoid overspraying onto other parts of the model.
Gradually build up the highlights, especially on the tips of the tendrils.
Step 3: Transitioning Colours
Use White or Fire Dragon Bright for highlights, but be mindful not to turn the red into pink.
Consider the translucency of the paint and how it interacts with layers.
Be strategic in highlighting to maintain the desired colour intensity.
Step 4: Detailing with Brushes
Switch to a smaller brush for fine details and lines.
Use Vallejo’s White Gray or a similar colour for opaque and solid highlights.
Follow the sculpted details and angles on the model for a stylised effect.
Step 5: Creating Contrast and Highlights on the Helmet
Apply XV88 and Balor Brown to create contrast and define shapes.
Add edge highlights to enhance details and create shine spots.
Use Vallejo’s White Gray for additional highlights.
Step 6: Adding Filigree Details
Add filigree details to areas like the cross for a shiny effect
Reinforce the glare by going over edges with a blob of paint.
Ensure consistency and follow the sculpting direction for a polished look.
Step 7: Refining Highlights and Shadows
Glaze over the model to blend highlights and shadows.
Tidy up and pick out additional details using Blue Horror.
Use Wild Rider Red for final touches on certain areas.
Step 8: Painting Wood Effect
Cover everything with Rhinox Hide for the wood effect.
Be rough and don’t worry about spikes; paint over them and pick them out in black later.
Focus on pushing lightness towards the edges of each wood plank.
Step 9: Adding Green Flame
Use Warpstone Glow for the green flame.
Be aware of the paint’s bad coverage and apply multiple coats for saturation.
Add a small bright yellow dot for high contrast.
Step 10: Applying Matte VarnishFinish by applying a coat of ultra-matte varnish to even out the surface and remove shine.
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These videos show how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee to a high level tabletop standard, ideal for a commanding presence in your army or for smaller game systems like Kill Team.
Part One – How to Paint a Howling BansheeMaterials NeededPaints NeededStep-by-Step Tips and GuidePart Two: How to Paint a Howling Banshee WeaponMaterials NeededStep-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMMMore Video Tutorials
Part One – How to Paint a Howling Banshee
This session focuses on achieving a detailed, bone-coloured armour synonymous with Howling Banshees.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Aeldari Howling Banshee Miniature
Brushes: Various sizes, including a size two for base coating and size 00 Artist Opus (or equivalent) for detail work.
Paints Needed
Games Workshop Paints:
Base Colours: Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Sotek Green
Shades and Glazes: Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium
Highlight and Detail Colours: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Corvus Black (for black areas)
Vallejo Paints:
Basalt Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow (for non-metallic metals)
P3 Paint:
Morrow White (or any white for extreme highlights)
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide
Base Coating and Stippling:
Prime the miniature and begin with a stippling technique using Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone.
Apply the paint thinly and evenly with a dry brush for a smooth base.
Adding Depth with Contrast Paint:
Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with Contrast Medium and apply over the stippled areas for added depth.
Refining Armour with Stippling:
Progressively build up highlights with Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, and Morrow White.
Focus on light placement to enhance features, keeping the paint watered down for a soft finish.
Glazing for Shadows:
Thin down Mournfang Brown considerably and apply in recesses to deepen shadows.
Painting the Eyes and Non-Metallic Metals:
Use Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and Basalt Grey for non-metallic metal areas, ensuring the correct placement of light and reflections.
Hair and Cloth Details:
Base the hair with Mephiston Red, building up highlights with Evil Sunz Scarlet and white.
For the black areas, create subtle highlights with Basalt Grey and Pale Grey Blue, avoiding an overly grey appearance.
Final Touches:
Refine details, adjust highlights, and ensure a balanced, cohesive look.
Part Two: How to Paint a Howling Banshee Weapon
The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights.
Materials Needed
Cybrite Green (Games Workshop)
Black (Vallejo Model Colour)
Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop)
Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop)
Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white)
A fine brush
A wet palette
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM
Base Layer: Firstly, coat the power weapon in black, creating a pristine base.
Green Layering:
Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the weapon less exposed to light.
Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions.
Highlight Application:
Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes.
Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint.
Texture via Stippling:
With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity.
Reflections Definition:
Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts.
Finalising Highlights:
Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect.
Gemstone Painting:
For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection.
For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights.
Refinement and Adjustment:
If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred.
Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance.
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This video tutorial and step-by-step guide shows how to paint a Desolation Dark Angel, one of the new Desolation Marines from the Strike Force Agastus, which was sent to me by Games Workshop. Read on for a full video, lots of tips and full materials and paints list.
Video Tutorial – Desolation Dark Angel
Materials:
Vallejo Model Colour (New): Angel Green, Charcoal, Toxic Yellow, Black, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Grunge Brown, Orange Fire, Nocturnal Red, Scarlet Blood
Games Workshop: Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium
Two Thin Coats: Plate Armour, Dragon’s Gold
P3: Morrow White
Steps:
Base Coat:Mix Angel Green and Charcoal (50:50 ratio).Apply this mix over the entire model using a large dry brush or makeup brush.Water the paint down slightly for a smoother application, aiming for a 50:50 water-to-paint ratio.
Layering:Apply straight Angel Green on top, using a kitchen roll to dab off excess paint for a thin layer.Focus on light volumes, covering flat surfaces more than edges.
Metallics:Paint metallic areas using Two Thin Coats’ Plate Armour and Dragon’s Gold.Thin these slightly for better flow and coverage.
Red Details:Use Nocturnal Red and Scarlet Blood for red areas, like the gun.Mix them for a base layer, then use Scarlet Blood mixed with a bit of white for highlights.
Adding Depth:Use Vallejo Black for shading and defining darker areas.
Highlighting Armour:Create three mixes on your palette: pure Angel Green, a 50:50 mix of Angel Green and Toxic Yellow, and a majority Toxic Yellow with a small amount of Angel Green.Apply these mixes progressively, starting with the darkest and moving to the lightest for highlights. Use a brush control technique similar to edge highlighting.
Contrast and Washes:Apply Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) selectively, followed by Contrast Medium for dilution in specific areas.Use Nuln Oil for metallic parts to create depth.
Detailing Metallics:Add highlights to metallic areas using a mix of Plate Armour and white.
Eyes and Lenses:Paint eyes with a base of Nocturnal Red, adding highlights with a mix of Scarlet Blood and white.Use a small white dot for reflection. For lenses, use Turquoise mixed with Charcoal, then highlight with Aquamarine and pure white.
Final Touches:Add fine scratches and details using lighter shades of the base colours.For the belt, use Grunge Brown base and Orange Fire for highlights.
Basing:Apply PVA glue and sand.Once dry, wash with Agrax Earthshade and apply weathering powder.
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This video looks at the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and I use them to paint a very colourful Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer. Read on to watch and follow along with a detailed step-by-step paints and steps guide.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mantis Warriors Green (Contrast), Striking Scorpion Green (Contrast), Karandras Green (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Magmadroth Flame (Contrast), Baal Red (Contrast), Doomfire Magenta (Contrast), Sigvald Burgundy (Contrast), Seraphim Sepia (Shade), Flash Gitz Yellow, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Xereus Purple
Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Matt
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
Priming and Preparing the Model Start by assembling and priming your Gossamid Archer model. Use Wraithbone as a base colour, which helps in achieving brighter, cleaner colours. If you want an even brighter finish, you can spray the whole model white. A zenithal highlight can be applied to create natural focal points on the head and chest, allowing for more dynamic shading.
Applying Base Colours with Contrast Paints Begin painting with a variety of contrast paints to achieve a vibrant and varied colour scheme. Use a large brush like an Artist Opus size 4 for quick application. Key contrast paints to use are Striking Scorpion Green, Karandras Green, and Garaghak’s Sewer. While the paints are still wet, you can blend them together on the model for a smooth transition. However, be cautious of drying times to avoid streaking.
Correcting and Refining with Airbrush If needed, refine areas with an airbrush. For instance, overpainting with Striking Scorpion Green can provide a more opaque and smoother finish, especially on the wings.
Mixing Contrast Paints with Acrylics Contrast paints can be mixed with regular acrylics for more versatility. Mix Striking Scorpion Green with P3 Morrow White to create various shades for highlighting. This method allows for smooth transitions and a semi-translucent finish.
Painting Wings with Dragonfly Effect For a dragonfly-like effect on the wings, use a mix of Striking Scorpion Green and white to paint vein-like lines, emulating a dragonfly’s wing pattern. Start with basic lines, then create four-sided shapes like rectangles or squares, resembling the vein structure. The lines don’t need to be perfect, as the organic nature of the wings allows for some variation. Ensure your brush isn’t overloaded with paint for finer lines.
Skin and Body Details For the skin, use Magmadroth Flame contrast paint, which provides a strong, vibrant base while still allowing for natural shading in recesses. For the arm and other body parts, apply Sigvald Burgundy, Baal Red, Doomfire Magenta, and other contrast colours, blending while they are wet for a smooth transition. Use smaller brushes for detailed areas, and ensure you cover all surfaces.
Highlighting and Detailing Highlight the skin by mixing Magmadroth Flame with Kislev Flesh, gradually adding more Kislev Flesh and white for higher highlights. Apply these mixes to the raised areas like shoulders, chest, and arms. For the hair, start with a vibrant base of Flash Gitz Yellow, dulled down with a Seraphim Sepia wash. Highlight by adding white to Flash Gitz Yellow for a striking effect.
Bow and Other Accessories Paint the bow using Rhinox Hide, XV-88, and Balor Brown, adding white for final highlights. Keep the painting simple, avoiding overly intricate freehand patterns unless desired. Remember to mix and match colours to add more interest to the model.
Finishing Touches with Matt Varnish Once the painting is complete, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This will unify the finish of the model, reducing any unwanted shine from the contrast paints and enhancing the overall appearance.
More Contrast Paint Projects and Tutorials
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This video shows you how to paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz army for Age of Sigmar. The model was painted exclusively using Two Thin Coats paints.In this how to paint a Squigboss video, we’ll be doing something a bit different. I’ll guide you through the process of painting the Squig boss, generously sent to me by Games Workshop. Alongside, I’ll be reviewing a set of paints I personally purchased, intrigued by reviews—the Two Thin Coats series by Duncan Rhodes. These paints will exclusively adorn our Squigboss, and I’ve procured them independently. So, no sponsorships or freebies; it’s all about exploring these paints. Now, let’s get started!
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:Two Thin Coats: Two Thin Coats: Doom Death Black, White Star, Etheral Green, Carcharodon Grey, Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, Skeleton Legion, Demon Red, Scorched Earth, Dragon Fang, Boar Hide, Sanguine Scarlet, Dwarven Skin, Marine Blue, Orange Flare, Emerald Green, Wolf Grey, Fanatic Orange, Cuirass Leather, Berserker Red
Tips on how to paint a Squigboss with these paints!
Base Coat with Boar Hide Colour:Initiate with the “Boar Hide” shade, akin to Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, serving as the foundational coat for the entire Squig boss model.
Non-Metallic Metal Gold Face Mask:I’ve gone for a non-metallic gold style for the goblin’s face mask, utilising the unique properties of the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats series.Apply the same colours used for the face mask on the staff, creating a non-metallic metal effect. Note differences in technique for different areas.
Adapting to Paint Properties:The paints seem quite nice to work with. Thinning is essential, however, and adapting to the colours’ strength becomes a creative challenge.
Use Translucent Marks for Subtle Effects:Experiment with translucent or softer marks by thinning the paint more. This technique can be effective for creating subtle details but requires precision in application.
Be Mindful of Paint Strength:As mentioned, the colour strength might be stronger than anticipated, so be cautious when adding subtle marks. Adjust as needed to avoid overpowering the model with vibrant colours.
Varied Application Techniques:Explore different application techniques for varied textures and effects. The angular features of the model complement the paints’ adaptability very well and allows for creative highlighting and detailing
Matte Finish and Dark Tones:Consider a matte finish for the model to achieve a pastel look. Embrace the dark and yellow tones for added depth and character.
Diverse Colour Palette for Highlights:Incorporate a diverse colour palette, such as Dark Sun Yellow, for highlighting and detailing, providing a unique touch to gold and other elements. The matte finish and the richness these paints bring to dark and yellow tones is great.
Quick Scratches and Detailing:Create quick, sharp scratches and detailing, adding interest to specific areas without the need for extensive blending. Quick and sharp detailing becomes a breeze with these paints, making them ideal for adding interesting detail without the need for laborious blending.
Highlighting with Translucent White:Use translucent white for highlighting, applying small amounts to achieve a subtle effect. Ensure quick application to prevent drying before reaching the model.
Colour Variations for Textures:Experiment with different colours for textures, adapting to the model’s features. Allow the varied palette to enhance details and bring out the intricacies. The paints are good at bringing out intricate details.
Teeth Detailing:Detail the teeth with simple lines, complementing the skin fold creases. Use the extra detailing to fill spaces and add interest without smoothing transitions.
Remember, the beauty lies in adapting and exploring the properties of the paints. Happy painting!
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This video guide and full instructions will walk you how to paint a Castellax model from the Mechanicum Battle Force box set. The goal is to achieve a high-quality tabletop standard using quick, repeatable techniques—no airbrush required!
The process focuses on achieving a grimy, weathered look that complements a Death Guard army.
Video – How to Paint a Castellax from the Mechanicum Battle Force Box
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow
Vallejo: Model Colour Black
Scalecolour: Necro Gold
Pro Acryl: Light Bronze Metallic
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Artis Opus Size 4 (Worn-out brush for stippling)
Artis Opus Size 3M (Shorter bristle brush for dry brushing)
Size 0 brush (for detailing)
Size 00 brush (for fine details)
A piece of dense foam (for sponge chipping)
Step 1: Preparation
Begin by assembling the model, leaving the legs separate from the torso to make painting easier. This is a common technique to manage sub-assemblies, allowing easier access to harder-to-reach areas and making the model more manageable to hold.
All I’ve done there is put some sprue glue and I’d left that to dry so I hadn’t sanded that down perfectly smooth here because the shoulder pad’s coming two parts and you can clearly see how one part connects to the other, but they are glued onto the model at the moment.
While it’s possible to leave the shoulder pads off to make painting easier, it’s up to personal preference. Some may find that too many sub-assemblies can result in scattered parts and unfinished projects. If you do decide to leave them off, it will make painting these parts slightly easier, especially when it comes to avoiding overspill.
Step 2: Base Coat
Prime the model with a black base coat using Vallejo Model Colour Black. This forms a solid foundation for the metallic and armour colours, ensuring good coverage and depth in subsequent layers.
“The first thing we’re doing is using some scale colour necro gold… I haven’t really watered it down too much… you want it reasonably runny but not too runny.”
Ensure the base coat is smooth and even, as this will help the metallics and other layers adhere better and produce a cleaner finish.
Step 3: Metallic Base
Use Scalecolour Necro Gold to cover all metal areas of the model. Apply this using a stippling technique with a worn-out Artis Opus Size 4 brush. The goal here is to create a textured, weathered look on the metallic areas. Be cautious with the thickness of the paint to avoid unwanted texture buildup, as you only want the paint to create a visual texture, not a physical one.
“You’re just doing that all over all the metal areas on the model… be careful of physical texture buildup… the only texture you want really on the model is painting texture, not three-dimensional thick paint texture.”
Next, use Pro Acryl Light Bronze Metallic to highlight raised areas. Focus on prominent features like the dome of the head, flamer nozzles, and the edges of the armour. Switch to a Size 3M Artis Opus brush for more control, as its shorter bristles help achieve a smooth application with this dry brushing technique.
“This is a little bit thinner than the Necro Gold and the idea with this is you’re doing a very similar kind of process with it… don’t go too crazy with the light bronze because it is a very light colour; it almost looks silver when you apply it.”
Step 4: Clean Up
Once the metallics are dry, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to go back over any areas where metallic paint has spilled onto the armour panels. This clean-up step is crucial for keeping the final look neat and avoiding metallic flakes showing through when painting the armour colours.
“When I was painting the metal I didn’t care where the paint got onto armour panels… it makes the process much quicker, and you don’t have to worry… just keeps everything looking neat.”
Take your time with this step to ensure all overspill is covered, particularly in recesses and around edges where the metallics might have spread.
Step 5: Armour Panels
Start by applying Games Workshop Balor Brown, thinned with water in a 1:1 ratio. Stipple this over all armour panels using the Size 3M brush. This technique creates a textured, weathered effect that forms the base layer for the armour.
“You’re basically covering all of the armour panels with that stippling effect… a large brush makes it hard to paint in some of these recess areas without getting the paint onto the metal.”
Next, apply Games Workshop Morghast Bone in the same manner, focusing on the curves and raised areas of the armour. The goal here is to start building up lighter areas, enhancing the depth and contrast on the model.
“You want the area to look darker in the recesses anyway… making sort of like a very soft light volume onto the armour.”
Finally, highlight the most prominent areas with Screaming Skull. As you progress to lighter colours, apply the paint more carefully, focusing on areas where light naturally hits the model, such as the tops of the shoulder pads, the chest, and the front-facing parts of the armour.
“We’re trying to get those highlight positions and be a little bit more accurate with it… you want to rotate the brush around a little bit and you also want to make sure that when you dab the brush onto the model you have it straight on.”
Remember to dab off any excess paint on kitchen roll before applying it to the model to avoid blobs or streaks.
Step 6: Applying Wash
Mix Darkoath Flesh Contrast with Contrast Medium in a 1:1 ratio. Apply this wash over the entire model, covering both the armour and metallic areas. This step is essential for toning down the highlights, blending the colours, and adding a grimy effect that suits the model’s aesthetic.
“If you use water, you will actually destroy the effect the way that the contrast paint works… it will give a very smooth, clean finish all over.”
Be mindful of pooling, especially in recesses. Use a clean brush to wick away any excess wash from these areas to maintain the model’s detail.
Contrast paint is slightly thick, so if you have a big pool of contrast paint, it will dry and it will just start to kind of gloss over some of the details.
Step 7: Decals and Further Weathering
If using decals, apply them at this stage. Use Micro Set to position them and ensure they blend seamlessly with the surface. For a more integrated look, consider applying the decals before the Darkoath Flesh wash so that they naturally blend into the model’s finish.
After the decals are in place, stipple Morghast Bone along their edges to simulate chipping and wear, especially around the corners and where the decals might receive the most damage.
Finally, apply another layer of the Darkoath Flesh wash over the decals to blend them further and reduce the starkness of the decal’s edges.
Step 8: Sponge Chipping
Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water in a 1:1 ratio. Use a piece of dense foam (such as that from old Warhammer clamshell packs) to sponge this onto the edges and areas likely to receive wear and tear. Focus on creating an irregular, natural pattern, with more chipping towards the front and the edges of the armour.
“You want to pay attention to the position of the weathering… it’s very easy to rub an edge against something, whereas the flat surface is less likely to get any damage.”
Before applying, dab the sponge on kitchen roll to remove excess paint. This prevents the foam from dumping too much paint onto the model, which could create an unwanted texture buildup.
“When you put the foam into the paint, you need to dab it off on some kitchen roll… you want to remove the excess paint.”
Step 9: Detailing
Using a Size 00 brush, paint fine scratches and streaks with Rhinox Hide. Place these near areas likely to see heavy use or impact, such as around weapons or sharp edges. This step adds realism and depth to the model by simulating wear and tear.
For larger chips created during the sponge chipping, consider adding a highlight line with Morghast Bone on the lower edge of the chip to simulate light catching the edge of the flaked paint.
“Picking out a few edges here and there… it makes it look like a chip and the light’s catching the flake of paint.”
Run the side of your brush along the edges of the armour to create subtle highlights, but focus primarily on upward-facing edges where light would naturally hit.
Step 10: Grimy Weathering
For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model,
Step 11: Further Grimy Weathering
For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model, particularly around the chainsaw blade hands, where the most action would occur.
If desired, you can mix a bit of red into the Darkoath Flesh to create a fresher, bloodier effect, adding another layer of realism to the model’s grimy appearance.
Step 12: Verdigris (Optional)
To add a verdigris effect to the metal areas, mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green in a 50:50 ratio, then thin it heavily with water (4:1). Apply this wash into the recesses and areas where water might naturally collect, simulating the patina of aged copper.
If you want to push the verdigris further, add a touch of white to the mix for the most extreme recesses, but be careful not to overdo it as it can make the effect too opaque.
Step 13: Metallic Highlights
Reapply the Light Bronze Metallic sparingly to the highest points of the metallic areas to restore some shine lost during the wash step. This should be done with a very fine brush and thinned paint (2:1 water to paint) to maintain control and avoid overpowering the subtle weathering.
Step 14: Lenses (Optional)
For the lenses, start with Warpstone Glow, then layer Moot Green, followed by a final highlight with Flash Gitz Yellow. This creates a gradient effect that mimics light shining through the lens.
“This makes it slightly less shiny… it just depends on how you want to do it; I just like the way this looks personally.”
Finish by adding a small white dot in the top left corner of each lens for a reflective effect, bringing the lenses to life and adding a focal point to the model.
Final Touches and Further Tips
As you finish your Castellax, take a moment to review your work and touch up any areas that may need it. Focus on ensuring your highlights are consistent, your grime looks natural, and that the overall effect is cohesive and fitting with the rest of your army.
Further Tips:
Patience with Stippling: When stippling, less is often more. Build up your layers gradually and step back occasionally to check the overall effect. This prevents overworking the model and keeps the texture subtle and realistic.
Experiment with Washes: The mix of Contrast Medium with Darkoath Flesh can be adjusted to suit your preference. A thicker wash will give a grimier look, while a thinner wash will maintain more of the underlying colour. Don’t be afraid to experiment on a test model or a hidden part of the figure.
Edge Highlighting: For a clean and professional finish, take your time with edge highlighting. While it may seem tedious, careful edge highlighting can significantly enhance the depth and definition of your model, making it stand out on the tabletop.
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In this tutorial, we’re diving into the wonderfully grim world of Nurgle as we explore how to bring the Rotbringer Sorcerer from Age of Sigmar to life with vivid detail. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will equip you with techniques and tips to get going.
Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part One:
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part Two
Materials and Paints
Primer: Badger’s Ultimate Primer Black
Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Skeleton Horde Contrast
Vallejo Paints: Basalt Grey, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (optional)
P3 Paints: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide to the Rotbringer Sorceror:
Preparation and Priming: Fully assemble your Rotbringer Sorcerer and prime it with a black primer. For easier access to intricate areas, consider leaving the arm that holds the scythe detached during priming.
Base Coating: Apply base coats using Mournfang Brown for wooden elements and Basalt Grey for the cloak and scythe blade. Bugman’s Glow is ideal for flesh areas. Apply these base coats roughly, aiming for coverage rather than precision.
Skin Tones: Enhance skin areas with Bugman’s Glow, providing a rosy, dark flesh tone. Progress with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights, ensuring to thin your paints for a smooth finish.
Wood and Metal Detailing: Utilise Balor Brown for initial wood highlights, transitioning to Mournfang Brown for added depth. For metallic areas like the scythe blade, start with Rhinox Hide, building up to Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights. Create rust effects using Trollslayer Orange.
Shading: Employ Corvus Black, adequately thinned, to add depth through shading across the model, focusing on recesses and shadowed areas.
Detail Enhancement: Use Screaming Skull for edge highlights and detail work on scrolls and similar features. Maintain thin paint layers for refinement.
Textures and Freehand Elements: Incorporate freehand elements like Nurgle symbols using Mephiston Red. Apply textures such as rust and wood grain using stippling techniques with Trollslayer Orange for rust and Morghast Bone for wood grain.
Verdigris Effect: On copper elements, create a verdigris effect with Sotek Green mixed with white. Apply this judiciously to areas that would naturally show oxidation, steering clear of bright highlights.
Candle Flames: Paint candle flames using Yriel Yellow, adding Trollslayer Orange to the tips. Blend these colours for a realistic flame appearance.
Model Basing: Prepare a base that complements the model, using a mix of sand, poly filler, and paint it with XV-88, Morghast Bone, and weathering powder. Introduce grass patches for added realism.
Final Adjustments: Revisit the Rotbringer Sorcerer for any last highlights or corrections. Use a precise brush for fine details, ensuring the paint consistency is suitable.
Model Sealing: Once satisfied with the painting, apply a matte varnish to protect your work.
Tips:
Thin your paints for smoother layers and better control.
Utilise an older brush for base coating and a newer, finer brush for detailed work.
Regularly assess your work from a distance for adjustments.
Experiment with light placement for dynamic highlighting and shadowing effects on your Rotbringer Sorceror.
Initial layers don’t need perfection as they will be layered over with more detail.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
More Nurgle Tutorials
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This free video shows how to paint OSL on the Vargskyr from the Cursed City boxed game by Games Workshop with some easy to follow tips.
The following paints were used on the modelGames Workshop: Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow, Baharroth Blue, Blue Horror, Contrast Skeleton Horde Vallejo: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Black, Pale Grey Blue
Top Tips on How to paint OSL on the Vargskyr
Priming and Base Coat:
Start by priming the model with an ultimate primer, like Badger primer, for a slightly satin finish.Use a black base coat for the OSL (Object Source Lighting) effect, as it provides high contrast.Begin with Warpstone, applying a couple of coats with an airbrush for the green glow.
Adding OSL Effect:
For a sickly look, hold the airbrush a bit further and add yellow to the warp stone glow.Rotate the model to ensure lighting works from multiple angles.Reduce the spray area and focus on the back with Baharroth Blue to enhance the OSL effect.
Matte Varnish and Detail Restoration:
Apply a coat of ultra matte varnish, like Lucky Varnish by Mig, to eliminate shine – this brings back detail lost in the varnishing process.Consider using multiple layers for a transition effect as layers build up.
Fur Texture:
Use Baharroth Blue for fur, but be cautious as it may create a high-contrast jump.Blend Pale Grey Blue into the fur for a smoother transition, applying thinner coats for textured effects.
Face Highlights:
Highlight the face, a major focal point, using Skeleton Horde as a guide for placement.Don’t worry about neatness; embrace the furry, textured nature of the model.
Texture Effect Painting:
Use a small brush for texture effect painting, but feel free to experiment with brush sizes.Maintain a wet paint mixture for precise dry brushing on fur, enhancing the model’s expressive nature.Accept some roughness in the paint as it adds character to a gaming model.
Green Glow and Final Touches:
Continue working on the green glow side, following the same process as the light side.Avoid excessive airbrushing for a clinical look; embrace expressive marks.Add a slightly darker gray colour to enhance details on non-glowing areas.
Frame with Black Rim:
Paint the model’s base with a black rim to frame and enhance the overall neatness.Consider the model’s orientation and adjust the painting accordingly to avoid missing details.
Blue Light from the Other Side:
Using Baharroth Blue, dry brush in the direction of the light to create a blue light effect.Maintain a consistent direction, capturing angles that highlight the green glow, face, and arm.
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This free video shows how to paint a Blood Angel in new Mark VI armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!)
Video: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials:
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Warboss Green, Moot Green, Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt IronP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour
Preparation
Clean Model: Ensure the model is cleaned of mold lines and primed. Drill the barrel for added realism if it hasn’t been done already.
Assembly: Fully assemble the model before starting to paint.
Base Coating
Red Armor:
First Layer: Start with Mephiston Red, diluting it to a 50/50 mix with water. Apply with a small drybrush or a large round soft brush, using a stippling motion to cover the armor.
Second Layer: Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to areas where light naturally falls, like shoulders and helmet, using a gentler stippling motion.
Final Layer: Add Wild Rider Red to the brightest areas, but be careful as it’s a pinky-orange hue. This layer is just for the very highlights.
Detailing
Metallics:
Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron. These metallics have good coverage, so there’s no need for a black undercoat.
Once dry, apply a coat of gloss varnish (optional).
Eyes:
Start with Warboss Green for the base of the eye lenses.
Add Moot Green over the Warboss Green, leaving some of the darker green visible around the edges.
Mix Moot Green with a bit of white for the next layer, focusing on the central part of the lenses.
Finish with a small dot of white in the center for the glowing effect.
Black Areas:
Paint any black parts like the bolter and the eyes.
Shading
Wash:
Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with a bit of Contrast Medium and apply liberally over the model for shadows and depth.
Use a clean brush to remove excess wash, especially in recesses.
Highlights and Finishing Touches
Red Armor:
Revisit with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red, focusing on areas where light hits to enhance the red color.
For chips and scratches, use Rhinox Hide with a fine brush, adding tiny dots and lines to simulate battle damage.
Metallics:
Re-highlight with Burnt Iron to restore the metallic sheen.
Base
Cover with PVA glue and sand. Once dry, apply a brown wash and let it dry.
Apply Forge World Weathering Powder
Dark Sand for a dusty, battle-worn look.
Varnishing
Finish with a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt for protection and a matte finish.
Final Touches
Detailing: Add any final details like highlighting edges or correcting overspills.
Decals (Optional): If you have Blood Angels decals, apply them after the shading stage.
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In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting. We’ll cover everything from essential tools and materials to step-by-step assembly instructions, ensuring you achieve a flawless finish on your model.
Video: How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer
How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by Step
Gather Your Tools: You’ll need Godhand clippers (or similar), a scalpel, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, and sprue glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement mixed with plastic sprue bits).Clean Your Model: Carefully clip out all the model pieces. Use your scalpel to scrape away any mould lines, always angling the blade away from the direction you’re moving to avoid cutting into the model. Take your time with this step.Remove Push-Fit Connections: Even though the model is push-fit, I cut off the connection points to avoid gaps and make painting easier. This makes for a cleaner fit.
Assembly:
Dry Fit: Before gluing, dry fit the pieces together to make sure everything lines up correctly.Glue Main Body: Apply a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to the connection points and join the pieces together. Use gentle pressure to ensure a tight fit.Leave the Head: Don’t glue the head yet, as this will make painting easier.
Gap Filling:
Identify Gaps: Look for any gaps or seams in the model where the pieces join.Apply Sprue Glue: Carefully apply sprue glue to the gaps, being careful not to get any on areas you don’t want to fill. Use the tip of your scalpel to guide the glue and remove any excess.What’s Sprue Glue? Follow this link to learn more.Smooth Out: Once the sprue glue is dry, use a fine file or sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges.Your Grey Seer model is now ready for priming and painting!
Additional Tips:
Work in a well-ventilated area as the glues and paints can be toxic.
If you accidentally get sprue glue somewhere you don’t want it, you can try to quickly remove it with extra thin cement.
Take your time and don’t rush the process. The more care you take in the preparation stages, the better the final result will be.
If you’re painting a whole army, consider cutting some corners to save time, but still aim for a neat and tidy finish.
Now you’ve learnt How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer, why not get started painting him?
How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer
My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer!
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This video shows How to Paint Darkstrider, who is a Tau special character for 40k.We’re aiming for a stealthy and moody look, differing from the standard bright and clear artwork. Because of that, it’s essential to prime the figure in black for the deep, shadowy effect we’re going for.
How to Paint Darkstrider – Video
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed:
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer Black
Paints: Games Workshop (XV-88, Balor Brown, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Macragge Blue, Yriel Yellow), Vallejo (German Grey, Black, White, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey)
Painting Steps:
Priming: Begin by priming your miniature in black. This will enhance the darker, stealthy look of the character.
Base Colours: Use XV-88 and Macragge Blue mixed with German Grey to create a desaturated base for the armour and cloth. This creates a dull, muted base, essential for the later stages of highlighting.
Blocking In: Apply Vallejo Neutral Grey to areas that will become white. For black regions, use German Grey as your initial highlight. Remember not to overdo it, or you’ll end up with grey instead of black.
Highlighting Armour: Start building highlights on the armour using a mix of XV-88 and German Grey, gradually adding less grey to each mix. Use a thin, 50:50 water-to-paint mix for a smooth transition. Focus on the chest and head for the brightest highlights, as they are the focal points.
Face and Detailing: For the face, start with a base of Macragge Blue mixed with German Grey. Gradually add more blue and then white for highlights. Pay attention to the unique features of the Tau’s face, using the sculpt as a guide. Add detail and texture through your brushwork.
Non-Metallic Gold Elements: Use XV-88 as a base for gold elements, highlighting progressively with Balor Brown and Ice Yellow. Remember, the brighter and larger your highlight, the shinier the gold will appear.
How to Paint Darkstrider Lenses and Eyes: For the lens on the gun, start with Mephiston Red, adding Evil Sunz Scarlet and white for highlights. For Darkstrider’s eye, consider black with a yellow iris, as per the Warhammer animation.
Final Touches: Check the overall miniature for balance in colour and highlights. Adjust and add final details as necessary. Remember, the model should look cohesive from all angles.
Finishing: Once satisfied, you can finish your miniature with a suitable varnish to protect your work.
Tips:
Keep your brushwork consistent and controlled.
Use a wet palette to keep your paints workable.
Regularly step back and review your work for a balanced look.
This process should give you a Darkstrider miniature with a stealthy, dark look, different from the standard bright Tau colour schemes. Enjoy your painting!
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How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy with weathered NMM bronze effects, bandages, clothing, NMM Skull and Skin!
Scroll town to explore the two video tutorials in order, or quick jump to specific techniques and materials you might need.
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with VerdigrisPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze MummyVideo Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and BasePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideBandagesSkull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)Clothing (Trousers/Pants)BeltSkinBase and Finishing Touches
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with Verdigris
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Pure White
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy
1. Priming and Base Coating:
Start with the model already primed in black. Apply Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) roughly on the armour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. The application at this stage can be quite loose and liberal.
2. Layering for Texture:
Proceed with XV-88 (Games Workshop), this time being more careful and refined in your brushwork. Focus on creating a weathered texture, interpreting the previous layer’s marks as damage or wear. Use the very tip of the brush for finer lines and stippling.
3. Detailing with Lighter Tones:
Use Balor Brown (Games Workshop) to further enhance the details. At this stage, focus on the edges, rivets, and any other raised details on the armour. Remember, the aim is to create a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the lower edges of dents or imperfections to create depth.
4. Highest Highlights:
Introduce Ice Yellow (Vallejo) for the brightest parts of the armour. Apply it sparingly and only on the most raised areas to create the illusion of light reflecting off metal. Be cautious with this step to maintain a realistic metallic look.
5. Glazing for Depth:
If needed, mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with water to create a glaze. Apply this over areas that are in shadow or need to be toned down. This step helps integrate the highlights and creates a more cohesive look.
6. Applying Verdigris:
For the verdigris effect, use Sybarite Green and Gauss Blaster Green (both Games Workshop). Thin these paints down considerably. Apply them mainly in recessed areas, joints, and crevices where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Avoid covering the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
Technique Tips:
Work in layers, building up from dark to light to create depth and realism.
Focus on where light naturally hits the model, creating highlights that follow the form and curvature of the armour.
In the verdigris step, less is more. It’s easier to add more verdigris effect than to remove it, so start with a light application and build up as neede
Video Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and Base
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints (Games Workshop):
Mournfang Brown
Rhinox Hide
XV-88
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Ushabti Bone
Death Korps Drab
Hobgrot Hide (not recommended)
Trollslayer Orange
Paints (Vallejo):
Ice Yellow
Pure White
Neutral Grey
Brushes:
Size 00 Artis Opus Brush (for detailed work)
Size 2 Artis Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing)
Other Materials:
MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect)
Step-by-Step Guide
Bandages
Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages.
Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect.
Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail.
Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages.
Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)
Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base.
Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect.
Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades.
Clothing (Trousers/Pants)
Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour.
Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights.
Belt
Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour.
Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick.
Skin
Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas.
Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition.
Base and Finishing Touches
Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass.
Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model.
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Two videos on how to paint weathered armour plate, complete with rust, scratches and chips and a simple freehand banner. You won’t need an airbrush for this tutorial.
Video: Part One – Armour and Weathering
Materials and Paints Needed
Games Workshop Paints: Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, White
Brushes: Large dry brush (or makeup brush), fine detail brush, glazing brush (size 4 or similar)
Accessories: Water for thinning paints, kitchen towel for wiping brushes, well palette
Preparing the Model
Clean and prime your Redemptor Dreadnought model. A light grey or white primer is recommended for bright colours like yellow.
Base Coating with Stippling Technique
Mix Balor Brown with water in a roughly 50/50 ratio. This will be your base layer.
Stipple Balor Brown onto the armour panels using a large, round, flat brush. Aim for gentle touches to build up the texture without creating pronounced, three-dimensional brush marks. Allow the paint to dry fully before adding more layers. This creates a worn, battlefield-ready appearance.
Glazing for Colour Depth
Create glazes in your well palette by mixing Mournfang Brown and Yriel Yellow separately with water, using about 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint.
Apply Mournfang Brown glaze to shade areas, starting from lighter areas and moving the brush towards darker regions. This adds warmth to the shadows.
Apply Yriel Yellow glaze over the entire panel, focusing more paint towards the centre for a vibrant effect. Ensure to remove excess paint from your brush to avoid pooling.
Chipping for Weathered Effect
Use Rhinox Hide with a fine detail brush to create chipping along the edges of the armour panels where wear would naturally occur. Remember, less is more; avoid overdoing it with lines and crosses.
Highlight the lower edge of each chip with Yriel Yellow to simulate the armour’s wear and tear, making the chips stand out more against the base layers.
Detailing and Finishing Touches
Rivets: Paint each rivet with a dot of Pale Grey Blue on the top left and a tiny line on the bottom right to simulate light reflection.
Metal Exposure: Use Neutral Grey to paint areas where the metal beneath the yellow paint would show through, particularly around chips and edges. This technique helps redefine the model’s shape and adds dimensionality to the weathering.
Final Highlights: Add a final touch by placing a small dot of White on the most prominent parts of the chips and rivets to enhance the reflective effect.
Video: Part Two – Freehand Banner
Materials and Paints Needed:
Games Workshop Paints: Baneblade Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Balor Brown
Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black
Brushes: A smaller brush for initial sketching and detailing, and a larger brush for smoother finishes on larger sections.
Other Supplies: Water for thinning paints, a palette for mixing, and kitchen towel for wiping off excess paint.
Preparing the Banner:
Base Layer with Morghast Bone: Begin by sketching the basic shape of the banner on the shoulder pad using Morghast Bone. This step involves creating the outline and filling in the banner. For larger sections, use a larger brush to achieve a smoother finish.
Refining Edges: Use a smaller brush to refine the edges and the trailing ends of the banner. Aim for a shape that complements the space available on the shoulder pad, keeping in mind the overall design and avoiding overly stubby ends.
Applying Shadow with Baneblade Brown and Rhinox Hide Mix: Mix approximately 50/50 Baneblade Brown and Rhinox Hide to create a shadow colour. Apply this mixture to add depth and shadow to the banner, especially along the edges and the banner’s folds.
Highlight with Screaming Skull: To highlight the main body of the banner and give it a three-dimensional appearance, apply Screaming Skull, focusing on the central and raised areas. This step brings out the details and makes the banner stand out.
Painting the Text:
Sketching Text with Vallejo Model Colour Black: Using a fine detail brush and Vallejo Model Colour Black, begin sketching the text onto the banner. Start with basic shapes for letters and focus on spacing. The chosen word for this tutorial is “MORTIS.”
Refining Letters: Once the basic spacing and shape are down, refine each letter for clarity and style. Adjust the thickness of the lines and add any stylistic flourishes to match the desired font. Consistency in line weight and style across all letters is crucial for readability.
Correcting and Sharpening Edges: Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull to correct any overshoots or to sharpen the edges of the letters. This step allows for cleaner lines and more precise letter shapes.
Final Touches:
Weathering: To integrate the text and banner naturally with the rest of the model, apply weathering. Use Balor Brown to simulate chipped paint and wear on the banner and text. This step adds realism and character to the model.
Applying Filters: A filter of heavily diluted Mournfang Brown and Yriel Yellow can be applied over the entire freehand work. This unifies the colours, softens the contrast, and gives the banner and text a worn look, blending them seamlessly with the model’s overall weathered appearance.
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A video tutorial with step-by-step guide on how to freehand a skull on Castellan Knight legplate, with advanced shading and patterns.
This guide will take you through painting a detailed skull freehand on the shin panel of a Castellan Knight miniature from Games Workshop. We’re focusing on creating a striking skull design amidst a vivid background, with a two-part process that lays the groundwork for intricate background details to be added later. The process begins with modifying the shin panel for a smooth painting surface, followed by base colouring, sketching, and detailing the skull.
Video: Freehand Skull on Imperial Knight Part One
Materials Needed
Brushes:
Size 1 Artis Opus Brush (used throughout the video for detailed work)
Paints:
Games Workshop (Citadel):
Rhinox Hide: Base sketching of the skull
Balor Brown: Refining skull details
Ushabti Bone: Highlighting the skull
Ceramite White: Final highlights on the skull
Wild Rider Red: Used for airbrushing the background (mentioned as part of the orange base)
Troll Slayer Orange: Part of the airbrushed background
Mournfang Brown: Used in shadows and for airbrushing background details
Privateer Press (P3):
Battlefield Brown: Alternative to GW Scorched Brown, used for shading
Vallejo:
Model Colour Black: For defining eye sockets and other dark areas on the skull
Other Materials:
Airbrush: For applying the base layer of the shin panel
Scalpel: For modifying the shin panel to create a smooth surface
Fine Grit Sandpaper: For smoothing the modified shin area
Wet Palette: To keep paints hydrated and workable
Water Container: For rinsing brushes
Paper Towels: For brush cleaning and paint dabbing
Preparation Tools:
Filling Material: To fill in gaps after modifying the shin panel for a smooth painting surface
Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Surface
Modify the Shin Panel: Begin by carefully removing excess detail from the shin panel using a scalpel. Fill in any gaps to create a smooth surface for your freehand painting. Although minor dimples might remain, they will be covered by the paintwork.
Base Colouring
Airbrush Background: Apply an airbrushed base layer using Wildrider Orange, Troll Slayer Orange, and a touch of Mournfang Brown for shadows. This creates a vibrant orange backdrop, setting a stark contrast for the skull.
Sketching the Skull
Outline with Rhinox Hide: Start sketching the skull using Rhinox Hide, focusing on getting the overall shape rather than detailed features like eye sockets or teeth. This stage doesn’t require perfection in symmetry or detail, as adjustments can be made later.
Refine with Balor Brown: With Balor Brown, begin refining the skull’s structure, particularly around the temples, nose, and eye sockets. This layer adds dimension and prepares for detailed work.
Detailing the Skull
Highlight with Ushabti Bone: Use Ushabti Bone to start bringing out the highlights of the skull. This step involves building up from the darkest shadows to the lightest areas, considering the light source will be from the top left.
Deepen Shadows: Apply Vallejo Model Colour Black to define the eye sockets and other deep shadows within the skull, enhancing the contrast and depth.
Add Texture and Fine Details: Continue with Balor Brown and Ushabti Bone, applying very light, fine strokes to create texture and detail across the skull’s surface. Focus on asymmetry and imperfections for a more realistic appearance.
Final Highlights with Ceramite White: Use Ceramite White sparingly to add the brightest highlights, concentrating on areas that would catch the most light. This step dramatically increases the contrast and brings the skull to life.
Starting the Background Pattern
Outline Pattern with Black: Begin outlining the background pattern, starting with simple geometric shapes and lines to create a non-symmetrical, maze-like design. This base pattern sets the stage for further detailing.
Apply Initial Highlights: Initially, experiment with Fire Dragon Bright for highlights but plan to integrate the skull’s colours (Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Ceramite White) into the background for consistency.
Finishing Touches
Adjust and Refine: As the background pattern develops, continuously adjust and refine the design. Incorporate shadows and highlights to create depth and interest, using P3 Battlefield Brown for shading.
Merge Skull and Background: Begin to subtly blend elements of the skull into the background pattern, ensuring the entire piece feels cohesive.
Video: Freehand Skull on Imperial Knight Part Two
Where we focus on refining the maze-like background detail introduced in Part 1, enhancing the overall visual appeal and integrating the skull into the pattern for a cohesive look.
Materials Required:
Brushes: A fine detail brush, ideally size 0 or 1.
Paints: Games Workshop’s Wild Rider Red, Rhinox Hide, Ceramite White, Zamersi Desert, Ushabti Bone, Firedragon Bright, Abaddon Black, and P3’s Battlefield Brown (or Baneblade Brown as a GW alternative).
Other Supplies: A wet palette for mixing paints, water for thinning paints, and kitchen paper for brush cleaning.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Review and Refine the Existing Pattern:
Begin by assessing the pattern laid out in Part 1. Identify areas that require refining or adjustments to ensure a unified appearance across the entire shin armour.
Adjusting the Pattern:
Use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Battlefield Brown to refine areas needing adjustments. This may involve smoothing transitions between different sections of the pattern or altering shapes to better integrate with the overall design.
Focus particularly on areas around the white dots and sections that appeared overly bright or disjointed in Part 1. The aim is to create seamless transitions between the skull and the background pattern.
Enhancing Contrast and Depth:
Apply thin glazes of Rhinox Hide in areas needing more depth, helping to highlight details and make the pattern more intricate.
Increase contrast by selectively brightening areas with Zamersi Desert, followed by Ushabti Bone and Ceramite White for the highest highlights. This step is crucial for giving the pattern a three-dimensional look.
Blending the Skull into the Pattern:
To integrate the skull into the background, extend pattern elements over the edges of the skull. Use a fine detail brush and steady hand to draw lines and shapes that flow from the skull into the surrounding areas, unifying them.
Final Highlights and Touch-Ups:
Add final highlights with Ceramite White to the highest points of the pattern, enhancing the illusion of depth and detail.
Review the piece for any areas requiring further refinement or additional highlights before sealing your work.
Glazing for Cohesion:
Create a glaze with Firedragon Bright and water for a thin consistency. Apply this over the entire pattern, especially where transitions need softening or colours unifying. The glaze will blend highlights and shadows for a cohesive look.
Finishing Touches:
Once the glaze has dried, reassess the effect. If necessary, redefine any details with base colours that may have been softened too much by the glazing.
Sealing the Work:
After ensuring the paint is completely dry, apply a matte varnish to protect your work. This also helps unify the finish across different textures and layers.
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This video shows you how to paint a Death Guard marine for the Horus Heresy. This guide incorporates a mix of airbrushing and traditional painting techniques, ideal for achieving a weathered, battle-hardened look.
Death Guard Horus Heresy – Video
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Required:
Death Guard Marine miniature, primed black
Airbrush and Tamiya X20A thinner
Paints: Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, Ionrach Skin, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Mortarion Grime (Shade), Vallejo’s Black, Burnt Iron Metal Colour, Pure White, and P3’s Iosen Green
Brushes, including a large brush for applying washes and a fine detail brush
Painting Steps:
Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown using an airbrush, thinned with Tamiya X20A to ensure smooth application. If an airbrush is unavailable, a brown primer can be used as an alternative.
Secondary Coat: Airbrush Ionrach Skin over the model. If the paint speckles, add more thinner to achieve a smooth finish. Focus on armour panels, allowing some brown to show in recesses for depth.
Highlighting: Use Vallejo Pure White, thinned more heavily than the previous layers, to highlight areas such as the head, chest, and shoulder pads. Be selective, as the right shoulder pad will be painted green later.
Metallic Parts: Paint all metal parts with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour. For better control and to prevent the paint from flowing into unwanted areas, let it thicken slightly in a palette before use.
Black Areas: Use a black contrast paint to cover areas like the shoulder pad. This can be done with a large brush for speed and efficiency. A couple of coats may be needed for full coverage.
Green Shoulder Pad: Airbrush Iosen Green onto the left shoulder pad, gradually adding Yriel Yellow to the mix for a bright front highlight, creating a transition from bright to dark.
Shading: Saturate the model with Mortarion Grime shade using a large brush. Ensure an even coat and avoid pooling. The shade will naturally darken recesses and enhance details.
Chipping Effect: Apply Rhinox Hide to simulate chips and wear on the armour. Focus on edges and surfaces that would naturally see wear and tear. This step adds realism to the model.
Highlighting Chips: Using Vallejo Pure White, highlight the lower edges of the chips to create a three-dimensional effect. This step is particularly effective in making the chipping stand out.
Weapon Details: Highlight the gun with Neutral Grey by Vallejo, focusing on upward-facing edges and adding scratches for realism. This adds contrast and depth to the weapon.
Glowing Red Eyes: Start with Mephiston Red, followed by Troll Slayer Orange, and then highlight with Yriel Yellow. Finish with a small dot of Pure White in the centre for a glowing effect.
Final Touches: Apply light highlights of Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour on metallic surfaces for extra sheen. Use Forge World Dark Sand weathering powder on the feet for a dusty look.
Tips for Success:
Ensure smooth transitions when airbrushing by adjusting paint consistency.
Use the chipping technique to add character and age to the model.
Focus on focal points like the head and chest for your brightest highlights.
Experiment with the thickness of your paint for different effects; thicker paint can achieve sharper lines and highlights.
Be mindful of the lore and aesthetic of the Death Guard when choosing colours, especially for details like the eye lenses.
Remember, the goal is to create a visually striking model that embodies the rugged and corroded nature of the Death Guard.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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This video tutorial shows How to Paint a Legio Fureans Reaver (Tiger Eyes) from the Adeptus Titanicus game. I’ve done it as a gaming piece, but I’ll be doing a Warlord for a potential Golden Demon entry.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Paints from Games Workshop (Yriel Yellow, Flash Gitz Yellow, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Magos Purple Contrast, Technical Stormshield, Corvus Black, Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide), Vallejo (Dark Sea Grey, German Grey, Black, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Chrome, Ice Yellow, White), and Scale 75 (Necro Gold).
Oil Colours: Winsor and Newton’s Sansodor mineral spirit, Black, and Burnt Sienna.
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black.
Airbrush: Infinity CR Plus, set at about 30-35 PSI.
Additional Tools: Mixing cups, a selection of brushes and a magnifying headset.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Priming: Start with a base coat of black primer.
Airbrushing the Carapace:
Dilute Yriel Yellow with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Apply several coats for a solid finish.
Optionally, start with a base of XV-88 for a quicker yellow hue.
Add depth with Mournfang Brown in recessed areas.
Reapply Yriel Yellow for a smooth blend.
Highlight the edges with Flash Gitz Yellow.
Mix a bit of Mournfang Brown with Yriel Yellow for a gentler transition.
Trim Painting:
Apply Necro Gold, thinned down to about a 50/50 mix with water.
Add depth with a wash of Aggrex Earthshade.
Detailing with Black Flames:
Hand-paint black flames using Model Color Black. Start with simple S-curves, then refine.
Applying Decals:
Apply a gloss varnish, then the decals with microset.
Seal with matt varnish after drying.
Oil Weathering:
Apply Burnt Sienna oil paint for realistic streaking effects.
Scratches and Dents:
Use Rhinox Hide for scratches, followed by Ice Yellow on the lower edges for a 3D effect.
Highlighting and Shading Trim:
Reapply Necro Gold, then blend with Vallejo Chrome for brighter highlights.
Use Wild Wood contrast paint for shading.
Main Structure Painting:
Stipple on Burnt Iron metallic colour.
Add depth with a Magos Purple wash, followed by a diluted Mournfang Brown wash.
Painting the Head and Lenses:
Start with a black base, then layer up highlights with German Grey and Dark Sea Grey.
Glaze over with Corvus Black to tone down and blend highlights.
Paint the lenses with Sotek Green and white highlights.
Finishing Touches:
Apply final weathering, varnishing, and any additional detailing as needed.
Richard’s Pro Tips:
Patience is key when airbrushing. Build up the layers gently for a more professional finish.
Experiment with brush strokes and blending to achieve your desired effect.
Each miniature is a canvas for creativity – don’t be afraid to add your own flair!
Always thin your paints for smoother application and a more refined look.
Take breaks! Detail work can be taxing on the eyes and hands.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in Imperial First colours from the new Horus Heresy boxed game. Many of you were asking for help painting a model in this style without using an airbrush or oils – so here he is!
Video: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step by Step Guide: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought
Initial Preparation
Begin with assembling the Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought. Keep arms and backpack separate for easier painting. Prime your Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in black to set the stage for the upcoming colours.
Base Coating with Mournfang Brown Start with Mournfang Brown, heavily diluted with water for a translucent effect. Using a large brush, apply the paint in a stippling motion. This technique creates a mottled, weathered look on the model. Multiple thin coats are needed, around three or four, to achieve the desired coverage.
Creating Highlights Mix P3 Morrow White (or any available white paint) with Mournfang Brown. This mixture is used for creating highlights on the model. Apply with a smaller dry brush for more controlled and precise placement of highlights, especially on areas like the chest and upper stomach.
Adding Layers and Textures Progress with the painting by layering and texturing the model. Focus on building up colours gradually. Use the stippling method to apply these layers, which enhances the weathered and battle-worn appearance.
Incorporating Uriel Yellow Uriel Yellow, diluted in a similar fashion to Mournfang Brown, is used next. It’s important to keep the brush damp, not wet, to avoid the paint running. Apply in a dabbing motion, focusing on areas where light naturally falls. This stage is crucial for developing the yellow hue characteristic of the Imperial Fist.
Glazing and Fine Details Move to glazing layers using Uriel Yellow. This involves a thinner consistency and focuses on the model’s focal points like the head and chest. Pay attention to edges and hard lines, using a fine brush for precise application.
Weathering and Final Touches For weathering effects, employ Rhinox Hide for chipping and damage marks. Apply these strategically across the model to create a realistic battle-damaged effect. Focus on edges and areas likely to receive wear.
Enhancing Eyes and Metal Details Sotek Green is used for the eyes, creating a layered effect with a transition from green-blue to pure white. For metal parts, use Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold and Copper, applying carefully due to their fluid nature.
Applying Transfers and Final Varnishing After applying decals or transfers, coat them with gloss varnish to blend them seamlessly into the model. Use Micro Set for applying and setting the transfers.
Base Details Finish by creating a cohesive base using Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Apply multiple layers, interspersed with matte varnish, to build up a textured, grimy effect that complements your Contemptor Dreadnought
Show it off!
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists in Beakie armour, from the Horus Heresy.
Video – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral GreyWindsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust ManifoldP3: Morrow White (Any White will do).
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00.
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists
Base Coating with Mournfang BrownBegin by airbrushing or hand painting Mournfang Brown onto the miniatures, creating a solid base for subsequent layers.
Highlight Placement Lighten Mournfang Brown with a bit of white, applying it to areas of natural highlights like upward-facing surfaces.
Applying Yriel Yellow Over the pre-shaded miniatures, apply thinned Yriel Yellow, bringing out the Imperial Fists’ iconic yellow.
Detailing with Mephiston Red Use Mephiston Red for the sergeant’s red head stripe, distinguishing the squad leader.
Eyes and Weapons Paint eyes and weapon details black, setting the stage for later detailing.
Metallic Elements Apply Vallejo Metal Exhaust Manifold to metallic areas, focusing on weapon coils and armour studs.
Gloss Varnishing for Decals Apply a coat of gloss varnish over the miniatures to smooth the surface for decal application.
Decal Application Carefully apply Imperial Fist decals, using microset for proper adherence and fit.
Oil Washes for Depth Create a wash with Burnt Sienna, Black, and Sansodor mineral spirit, enhancing depth and worn appearance.
Matte Varnishing After the oil wash dries, apply a coat of matte varnish to seal previous layers and prepare for final detailing.
Enhancing Yellow Highlights Revisit yellow areas with thinned-down Yriel Yellow, creating bright focal points.
Eyes and Plasma Effect Create glowing effects with Sotek Green mixed with white, applying to eyes and plasma details.
Weathering with Rhinox Hide Add a battle-worn effect using Rhinox Hide for scratches and chips across the armour.
Final Touches Add highlights to the red plume, enhance yellow details, and complete any final touches.
Base Decoration Decorate the base with sand, PVA glue, Agrax Earthshade, and weathering powder for a realistic ground effect.
Final Sealing Seal the model with a final layer of matte varnish to protect your work.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished the how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists tutorial, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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This video shows how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee Triskele Weapon to a high level tabletop standard.
The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon (the ‘triskele’ weapon) will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights.
Materials Needed
Cybrite Green (Games Workshop)
Black (Vallejo Model Colour)
Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop)
Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop)
Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white)
A fine brush
A wet palette
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM
Base Layer: Firstly, coat the triskele weapon in black, creating a pristine base.
Green Layering:
Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the triskele weaponless exposed to light.
Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions.
Highlight Application:
Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the triskele weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes.
Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint.
Texture via Stippling:
With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity.
Reflections Definition:
Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts.
Finalising Highlights:
Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect.
Gemstone Painting:
For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection.
For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights.
Refinement and Adjustment:
If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred.
Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance on the triskele weapon.
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This video shows you how to paint an Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel (Astra Militarium), which Games Workshop sent me as part of the new Army Box.
Quick Jump to:
Video Tutorial: How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
Paints Used
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
Initial Setup
Airbrushing the Base Coat
Enhancing Highlights
Weathering and Details
Missile and OSL (Object Source Lighting)
Final Touches and Highlights
Metal Work and Final Weathering
Video Tutorial: How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Daemonette Hide, Sotek Green, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green Vallejo: Black, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
Initial Setup
Model Assembly: This Sentinel from the Imperial Guard Astra Militarum Army box can be built in various ways. Our focus is on the armored version with a plasma cannon and hunter-killer missile. The weapons aren’t glued for easier painting.
Airbrushing the Base Coat
Airbrush Settings: Use a 0.4 needle with PSI around 30. Thin ‘Daemonette Hide’ paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner.
Application Technique: Aim for dramatic lighting with stronger opacity on the front cabin, top left, fading towards bottom right. Ensure smooth transitions, but don’t worry too much about perfection as weathering will cover minor flaws.
Enhancing Highlights
Mixing for Highlights: Gradually mix ‘Morrow White’ into the ‘Daemonette Hide’ mixture for highlighting, focusing on the dramatic light effect.
Highlighting Method: Create a realistic lighting effect, brighter on the top left of each section.
Weathering and Details
Base Coating Metal Areas: Apply ‘Burnt Iron’ Vallejo metal color on metal parts and ‘Viking Gold’ from Scale 75 on decorations like aquilas.
Weathering: Use ‘Mournfang Brown’ for rust-style weathering. Apply ‘Cyberite Green’ on gold areas for a Verdigris effect.
Missile and OSL (Object Source Lighting)
Missile Painting: Originally red, but later changed to black for better contrast with the OSL.
OSL Technique: Start with ‘Mephiston Red’ for the plasma glow, then layer with ‘Troll Slayer Orange’ and ‘Yriel Yellow’ for intensity.
Final Touches and Highlights
Adding Details: Paint lenses using a progression from ‘Sotek Green’ mixed with white for a glowing effect.
Armor Panel Highlights: Use the brightest highlight mix used earlier, focusing on the top left areas and incorporating into scratches for a realistic effect.
Metal Work and Final Weathering
Metallic Highlights: Reapply ‘Burnt Iron’ on metal parts for brighter edges.
Final Weathering: Add rust effects with thinned down ‘Rhinox Hide’ and ‘Troll Slayer Orange’, focusing on edges and recesses.
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More of my latest videos: [...]
This video and step by step guide shows you how to paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank, blending traditional brushwork with optional airbrush techniques, ensuring a deeply weathered, battle-hardened appearance. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting, this tutorial should and leave you with a striking addition to your Death Guard army.
Quick Jump to:
Video: How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile TankPaints UsedStep-by-Step GuidePreparation and PrimingStippling the Base LayersBuilding LayersAirbrushing (Optional)Detailing and WeatheringChipping EffectLenses and Vision SlitsFinal Weathering
Video: How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: XV-88, Hobgrot Hide, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Athonian Camoshade Vallejo: Black, Ice Yellow, Burnt Iron Metal Colour P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green
Step-by-Step Guide
Preparation and Priming
Model Assembly: Assemble the Scorpius missile tank but leave the missile pods and top unglued for ease of painting.
Priming: Prime the model black. For an easier approach, consider starting with a brown primer.
Stippling the Base Layers
Stippling Technique: Use a large dry brush, like Artist Opus, to stipple on the paint. Start with a color like XV-88 from Games Workshop, diluted to about 50% with water.
Application: Ensure the stippled paint reaches recesses but expect some natural variation in tone. Apply two coats for adequate coverage
Building Layers
Lightening the Base: Apply successive lighter shades of brown and bone colors (like Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone), each time covering a smaller area to create a natural, textured fade from dark to light.
Focus on Raised Areas: With each lighter layer, focus more on the raised areas, leaving recesses darker for contrast.
Airbrushing (Optional)
Airbrush Use: If desired, use an airbrush for a smoother finish on the lower two-thirds of the tank. Start with a light brown and gradually transition to white for a clean look.
Detailing and Weathering
Contrast Shading: Use Darkoath Flesh contrast paint mixed with contrast medium for shading. Apply it carefully, focusing on recesses and high contrast areas.
Metallic Parts: Paint all metal areas with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour and then apply Athonian Camoshade for shading.
Chipping Effect
Chipping Technique: Use Rhinox Hide to create chips and scratches, focusing on edges and surfaces where wear is likely.
Highlighting Chips: For added depth, highlight the lower edges of each chip with a lighter color like P3 Morrow White.
Lenses and Vision Slits
Painting Lenses: Start with a base color like Iosen Green, then add layers of progressively lighter shades, focusing on creating a reflective effect.
Vision Slits: Begin with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Troll Slayer Orange and Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect.
Final Weathering
Streaking: Create streaks with a heavily diluted brown paint, using vertical strokes for a natural rain-streaked effect.
Weathering Powder: Apply dark sand weathering powder mixed with matte varnish for a realistic, powdery finish on lower sections.
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This free video shows the Plastic Leviathan Dreadnought from Games Workshop and shows how to paint it using Imperial Fist Contrast paint and oil paint.
Video: How to Paint the Leviathan Dreadnought
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints Used:
Airbrush with a 0.4 needle
Paints from Games Workshop (GW), Vallejo, Winsor and Newton, and P3
Winsor and Newton Sansodoor mineral spirit
Vallejo Mecha Varnish (Gloss and Matt)
Abteilung 502 Desert and Sand Pigment set
Micro Set for decals
Various brushes, including a small dry brush and a size 2 brush
Water jar and wet palette
Paints:
GW: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Dark Blue Pale, Exhaust Manifold, Chrome
Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (oil paint), Black
P3: Morrow White
Step by Step Guide to Painting the Leviathan Dreadnought
1. Base Coating:
Start by airbrushing Mournfang Brown on all armor panels. Thin the paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner for better flow. Airbrush at around 30 PSI.
2. Adding Highlights:
Mix some P3 Morrow White into the Mournfang Brown along with a bit more thinner. Airbrush areas you want to appear brighter. This will affect the final yellow hue after applying Imperial Fist contrast paint. Precision is key for this step.
3. Final Highlights:
Use P3 Morrow White (thinned) for the last layer of highlights. Aim for a smooth application, although some speckling is tolerable as the contrast paint will cover minor imperfections.
4. Applying Contrast Paint:
Apply Imperial Fist Contrast paint over the armor. This will tie in all the layers and give a vibrant yellow finish.
5. Painting Black Areas:
Start with Abaddon Black, gradually adding small amounts of white and thinner for highlights. Focus on curved areas for a natural lighting effect.
6. Metallic Sections:
Paint all metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold. Apply it directly without undercoating in black to save time.
7. Adding Decals and Chipping:
Apply decals using Micro Set on gloss-varnished areas. Then, paint chipping using Rhinox Hide. Be mindful of the order; it’s easier to apply yellow glazes before adding decals and chipping.
8. Weathering with Oils:
Use Burnt Sienna oil paint for streaking effects. Apply the paint in blobs and streak down using a brush dampened with mineral spirits.
For pin washing, use a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black thinned with mineral spirits. Focus on recesses and rivets.
9. Painting the Head:
Airbrush the head with Mephiston Red. Freehand a stripe using Vallejo Dark Blue Pale mixed with white. Highlight the red areas with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red.
10. Eye Lenses:
Paint the lenses with Sotek Green, followed by a mix of Sotek Green and white for highlights.
11. Glazing Yellow Highlights:
Use a glaze of Yriel Yellow mixed with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part paint) for bright highlights on the top of shoulders and other upward-facing surfaces.
12. Highlighting Chips:
Mix Yriel Yellow with white and highlight the lower edges of chips. This is time-consuming but adds depth.
13. Claw and Exhaust Weathering:
Dry brush the claw using a mix of Vallejo Chrome and Exhaust Manifold. Focus on the blade edges.
Apply the same mix to the exhaust sections.
14. Applying Weathering Powder:
Use the Abteilung 502 Desert and Sand Pigment set for the base and lower parts of the Leviathan Dreadnought.
15. Sealing with Varnish:
Finish by covering the entire model with Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish for a uniform and protected finish on your Leviathan Dreadnought.
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I’m excited to share my journey of painting the Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, a majestic model sent to me by Games Workshop. My focus is to highlight the crucial role of airbrushing in bringing this titan to life with the vibrant colours of the Legio Astorum, also known as the Warp Runners.
Watch the Video
The Importance of Airbrushing: Airbrushing is a game-changer in miniature painting, offering unparalleled smoothness and efficiency. It’s especially valuable when painting large models like the Iconoclast Titan, where traditional brushing might fall short. The fluidity of airbrush paints, like Vallejo’s Metal Color series, is perfect for both airbrushing and regular brushwork.
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black
Initial Steps: Before diving into painting, it’s essential to prepare the model. I left off the armor plates of the titan to separately paint the skeleton with metallic colours and the armor panels with the distinctive Warp Runner scheme.
Airbrushing Techniques:
Base Coating: Starting with Vallejo’s Burnt Iron, I applied the base coat to the skeleton. Despite being formulated for airbrushing, its fluid nature worked well with a large, soft brush for a non-textured finish.
Detailing with Copper: For the hips, I used Games Workshop’s metallic colour, applying it straight from the pot. This step required multiple thin coats for a consistent finish.
Creating Verdigris Effects: I used oil paints to simulate the verdigris effect on the copper parts. Stippling the paint onto the model, I focused on crevices and rivets, where oxidation naturally occurs.
Oil Washes: An overall wash of oil paints, mixed with spirits, added depth to the metallic parts. This technique requires patience, as it’s essential to allow the wash to dry completely, typically 24 hours.
Highlighting with Chrome: Vallejo’s Chrome, another airbrush-focused paint, was used for highlights. Its liquid consistency demanded careful application to avoid flooding recessed areas.
Colouring the Armor Panels: The real challenge and joy of airbrushing came alive while painting the armor panels. I started with Night Lords Blue, followed by Macragge Blue, both thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner. The process involved covering entire panels with the darker blue, then focusing on upper sections and curves for the lighter blue, creating a pleasing visual gradient.
Stripe and Flame Patterns: For detailed patterns like stripes and flames, I relied on masking techniques and freehand painting. Tamiya tape helped in creating crisp, clean lines for stripes, while freehanding flames allowed for a more organic and fitting look on the armor panels.
Applying Decals and Weathering: After the base colours and patterns, I applied decals for additional detailing. This step required a steady hand and patience, especially when dealing with folded decals. Weathering was achieved with oil paints, enhancing the realism of the titan.
Final Touches: Matte varnishing the model brought all elements together, providing a uniform look and protecting the paint job. For the trim, I chose to paint it with Scale 75’s Necro Gold, followed by weathering and sealing with a matte varnish.
Airbrushing the Iconoclast Titan was a rewarding experience, showcasing the versatility and efficiency of this painting method. The ability to layer colours, create gradients, and apply washes and weathering with ease made airbrushing an indispensable tool in my painting arsenal. Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or a beginner, incorporating airbrushing into your miniature painting can elevate your models to new heights.
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray