Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version!
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral Grey
P3: Morrow White
Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads
Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger
Preparation:
- Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set.
- Prime the model with black primer.
- Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!)
Helmet Painting:
- Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet.
- Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls.
- Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering.
Metal Painting:
- Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects.
- Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone.
- Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture.
- Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas.
- Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections.
Leather Parts:
- Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide.
- Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint.
- Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look.
Highlighting:
- Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks.
- For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference.
- Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast.
- For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core.
Skin Painting:
- Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown.
- Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white.
- Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather.
Final Details:
- Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look.
- Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect.
- Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect.
- Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions.
Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting!
More Full Character Tutorials
Character Tutorials
For my Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials, I wanted to convey him truly as he is – the embodiment of millennia of chaos, terror, and galactic warfare. As the Warmaster of Chaos, Abaddon stands at the pinnacle of the Warhammer 40K universe, leading the Black Legion and waging countless wars in the name of the Dark Gods. When it came to painting this iconic character, I wanted to capture not only the weight of his legacy but also the immense detail Games Workshop has packed into his sculpt.
This series of tutorials is a comprehensive guide to painting Abaddon the Despoiler, taking you through every step — from his infamous gold armor to the haunting freehand work on his cloak. Whether you’re looking to push your skills for a competition display piece or aiming to bring the Warmaster to life for the tabletop, these videos will guide you through the techniques needed to achieve a striking result.
Gold Armour Trim and Armour – Using Non-Metallic Metal (NMM)
In the first video of this series, we dive into one of the most defining features of Abaddon’s armor: the rich, dark gold trim. Instead of using metallic paints, I opted for a non-metallic metal (NMM) technique to really make the gold pop. The base coat of XV-88, layered with Balor Brown and Pale Grey Blue, creates depth and complexity, while small touches of white add that final reflective edge. Painting gold in NMM can be tricky, but it gives the armour an otherworldly, luminous quality.
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Skull and Leather – Adding Character and Texture
Abaddon’s skull decoration, dangling from his belt, is grim reminder of his connection to death and destruction. Painting it required careful layering of XV-88, Morghast Bone, and Screaming Skull to create the right mix of texture and realism. The leather loincloth, on the other hand, allowed for a more rugged, worn appearance. By using Rhinox Hide as the base, and carefully layering Cadian Fleshtone and Morghast Bone for highlights, I aimed to give the leather a weathered, battle-scarred look.
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Drach’nyen – A Daemon-Infused Sword
Drach’nyen, Abaddon’s sword, is a daemon weapon capable of wreaking havoc on the battlefield, and painting it was one of the most exciting parts of this project. The blade’s eerie green glow, achieved with Warpstone Glow and Sotek Green, draws attention to the faces that seem to emerge from the sword itself. Using NMM techniques for the metallic parts of the hilt adds a cohesive look, tying the weapon into the overall feel of Abaddon’s model.
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Red OSL (Object Source Lighting) – The Glow of Chaos
A major focal point of Abaddon’s model is the red glow of chaos. For this, I employed Object Source Lighting (OSL) techniques using Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red. Carefully layering these reds over Bugman’s Glow and Kislev Flesh creates a subtle yet intense glow that adds a sense of malevolence to Abaddon’s visage.
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Shoulder Pad – The All-Seeing Eye and Intricate Gold Trim
Abaddon’s shoulder pad, adorned with the all-seeing eye, serves as a powerful symbol of his connection to Chaos and his relentless pursuit of power. . I began by painting the pupil and iris with deep blues and subtle yellows, using Kantor Blue and Flash Gitz Yellow to create a vibrant, glowing effect. Meanwhile, the whites of the eye, highlighted with Ushabti Bone and detailed with thin, vein-like lines, add to the menacing realism.
Watch Now
Hair and Talon – Textures and Non-Metallic Metal Mastery
Abaddon’s talon and hair combine to create a striking contrast between organic texture and metallic sheen, both of which add depth and realism to the model. The talon, painted using a non-metallic metal (NMM) effect, features a worn, weathered appearance.
For Abaddon’s hair, I used Rhinox Hide as the base, with Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone to build up highlights. By applying Ushabti Bone to the very tips of the hair strands, I created a natural, textured finish that mimics the flow and movement of real hair.
Watch Now
The Cloak – Leather, Freehand, and Chaos Iconography
Abaddon’s cloak is a testament to the grandeur of Chaos. I broke this part into multiple videos, starting with a leather effect on the inside of the cloak. The freehand work on the cloak, where I painted the faces of the four Chaos Gods, was the most challenging aspect of this model. Each section was dedicated to one of the dark gods — Slaanesh, Khorne, Nurgle, and Tzeentch — with their respective colours and textures. The final part of the cloak focuses on the iconic eight-pointed star of Chaos, blending the symbols into the fabric to represent Abaddon’s devotion to all four gods equally.
Watch Now
Trophy Rack – A Display of Defeat
The trophy rack on Abaddon’s back is a grim reminder of the many enemies he has bested in combat. I used a combination of Vallejo and Games Workshop paints to give the Space Marine helmet a battle-worn appearance, adding scratches and weathering to make it look like it had seen countless wars. The wooden spikes and NMM metal tips provide additional texture and visual interest, while the skulls, painted with layers of Rhinox Hide and Screaming Skull, give the model a truly macabre touch.
Watch Now
Inspiration Behind the Project
The inspiration for painting Abaddon came from a desire to push my painting skills and tackle a model that’s not only iconic but also loaded with intricate detail. I wanted to capture the dark, chaotic essence of Abaddon — from the daemonic energy of Drach’nyen to the gruesome trophy rack that looms over his back.
Lore-wise, Abaddon is one of the most significant figures in Warhammer 40K. As the successor to Horus, Abaddon leads the Black Legion and has spearheaded no fewer than thirteen Black Crusades, each one aimed at toppling the Imperium of Man. His armor, known as the “Terminator Armor of the Warmaster,” is a relic of ancient times, and his weapon, Drach’nyen, is a sword infused with a daemonic presence. Every piece of Abaddon’s model tells a story of his conquests and the dark path he treads as the chosen of Chaos Undivided.
For me, bringing Abaddon to life in paint was not just about technical mastery but about conveying his towering presence on the battlefield. I wanted the cloak to reflect his allegiance to all four Chaos Gods, while the armor, trim, and weaponry symbolize the destruction he’s capable of unleashing.
All Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials
Want all the tutorials on one massive long page?Follow the link below to watch them all.
Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials
A series of videos on how to paint Abbadon the Despoiler to competition standard – (new step-by-step guides included!)
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Dive into the latest step-by-step guide by Richard Gray, focusing on how to paint the Direwolf Titan in the iconic Legio Mortis colours. This comprehensive guide, complemented by an in-depth video tutorial, will help you achieve a professional, dramatic finish on your models.
What’s Inside the Guide?
Priming and Base Layer Techniques: Learn the essential steps to prepare your model for painting, ensuring a smooth, durable base.
Airbrushing Mastery: Discover tips for achieving seamless highlights and shading using an airbrush.
Detailed Painting Steps: Follow along with detailed instructions for painting red armour panels, black sections, and metallic trims.
Advanced Weathering Effects: Add depth and realism with expert weathering techniques, including oil washes and rust effects.
Decals and Final Touches: Perfect your model with tips on applying decals and adding the final touches that make your Direwolf Titan stand out.
Materials and Paints Used: The guide covers the essential paints and materials, including Games Workshop and Vallejo paints, Scale 75 metallics, and various weathering powders.
Exclusive Tips and Tricks: Richard shares his top tips for achieving smooth gradients, realistic weathering, and eye-catching highlights.
Ready to transform your Direwolf Titan? Make sure you are logged in and download the detailed PDF guide, below.
The PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here.
Legio-Titan-June-2024
Looking for the video?
How to Paint a Direwolf Titan
Learn how to paint a Direwolf Titan with me using Legio Mortis colours. Follow along below with my full video tutorial, plus step-by-step instructions and specific techniques to help you achieve a striking finish with your model.
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
I was lucky enough to be sent the teeny tiny little Leviathan Dreadnoughts from the Legiones Astartes and couldn’t wait to paint them up. Follow along with my tutorial on how to paint a Leviathan Dreadnought yourself, below.
Video: How to Paint a Tiny Leviathan Dreadnought
This video looks at the new Leviathan model for Legions Imperialis and looks at an alternate method of painting the model as Imperial Fists. The same painting method can be used for other Legion models, but instead of the base red, just airbrush the off-white colour over the black primer and select an appropriate Legion Contrast Paint colour.
Materials Needed:
Primer: Black
Base Paints: Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Highlight Paints: Chimera Colours Sunray (or Vallejo Ice Yellow as alternative), Imperial Fists Yellow (Contrast), Uriel Yellow (Games Workshop)
Shading: Winsor & Newton Artist’s Oil Colour Burnt Umber, Agrax Earthshade (Games Workshop)
Metallics: Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold (Vallejo)
Additional Colours: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Sotek Green, Morgast Bone, Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black (Vallejo), Neutral Grey (Vallejo)
Finishing: Decals, Coffee Granules, MIG Sand and Gravel Glue
Tools: Airbrush, various brushes including a very worn-out old brush for oil washes, wet palette
Steps:
Preparation:
Assemble your model ensuring to correctly match the pieces as per instructions to avoid misfitting parts.
Prime the entire model in black to prepare for painting.
Base Coating:
Airbrush the model with Wild Rider Red as the base layer. Ensure a solid, even coat by applying two or three layers if necessary.
Highlighting:
Apply a zenithal highlight using Chimera Colours Sunray or Vallejo Ice Yellow. Focus on areas where sunlight naturally hits to create a sense of volume and depth.
For further highlights, transition to a lighter shade using Uriel Yellow mixed with a bit of white for the brightest points on the model.
Contrast Layering:
Over the prepared base, apply Imperial Fists Yellow contrast paint. The red undercoat will enrich the yellow, providing a vibrant, intense colour suitable for Imperial Fists.
Shading:
Create depth using a wash of Winsor & Newton Artist’s Oil Colour Burnt Umber thinned with Sansodor. Apply this carefully to recesses and shaded areas to enhance details.
Metallic Details:
Paint metallic parts with Vallejo Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold. Transfer this paint to a pot for easier access and to avoid spillage.
Use Agrax Earthshade to add depth to the metallic areas.
Additional Details:
For areas requiring darker tones or additional shading, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide. This includes adding weathering effects and battle damage.
Eyes and lenses can be detailed using Sotek Green, with highlights added by mixing the green with white.
Use Morgast Bone for highlighting edges and details subtly.
Skeleton Horde contrast paint can be used for additional shading and to add variety to the base.
Base Decoration:
Prime the base in black, then airbrush with Neutral Grey.
Apply coffee granules (fresh, not sticky or old) to simulate dirt or rubble, securing them with MIG Sand and Gravel Glue.
Highlight the texture with Morgast Bone and add weathering powder for further detail.
Decals:
Apply decals as needed, using a small brush to position them. Set them with Micro Set and ensure they conform to the model’s surface. If necessary, seal with matte varnish to remove any glossiness.
Finishing Touches:
Finalise your model with any additional weathering, highlighting, or detailing as desired. This may include further battle damage, streaking effects using thinned-down Mournfang Brown, or reinforcing highlights on the most prominent features.
Varnishing:
Once satisfied with the painting, apply a matte varnish to protect your work and reduce any unwanted shine, especially over decals.
More Legions Imperialis Tutorials and Videos!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
A series looking at how to paint Commander Dante, which was sent to me for early review purposes by Games Workshop. The model is being painted to a high standard and will be covered in large amounts of NMM (Non Metallic Metal)
Quick Jump To:
Materials and Paints Needed for the NMMVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part OneVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part TwoVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part ThreeSteps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMMBase LayerDeveloping Mid-TonesRefining HighlightsEnhancing BrightnessDeepening ShadowsFinal Highlights and Sharp DetailsGlazing and SmoothingClean UpTips for Success:Video – NMM Axe (First Version)Materials NeededStepsTipsVideo – NMM Axe (Second Version)Materials and Paints UsedPreparing the AxeBase PaintingSky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueRefining the Metallic LookEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo – Head, Eyes, Blood GemMaterials and Paints Needed:Steps for Commander Dantes Head and DetailsVideo – Red Shoulder NMMPaints NeededStepsTips
Materials and Paints Needed for the NMM
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for precise work on NMM effects.
Black Primer: To create a solid base for your colours.
Palette: For mixing your paints and achieving the right consistency.
Paints:
Base and Mid-Tones: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown (Games Workshop)
Highlights: Ice Yellow (Vallejo; you can substitute with Dorn Yellow from GW), Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow (Games Workshop)
Shadows and Deep Recesses: Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Final Highlights and Sharp Details: Morrow White (P3; any high-quality white paint will suffice)
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Two
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Three
Steps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMM
Base Layer
Paint: Mournfang BrownApplication: Apply Mournfang Brown as a base layer over the areas you intend to paint gold. This forms a foundational layer that aids in building depth.
Developing Mid-Tones
Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownApplication: Begin layering XV-88 over the Mournfang Brown base, focusing on raised areas. Then, use Balor Brown to start defining the mid-tones, enhancing the dimensional appearance.
Refining Highlights
Paints: Mix of Balor Brown and Ice YellowApplication: Create a lighter shade by mixing Balor Brown with a small amount of Ice Yellow. Apply this mixture to the highest points of the highlighted areas, where light naturally catches more intensely.
Enhancing Brightness
Paints: Ice Yellow, Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz YellowApplication: Gradually add brighter highlights using these colours. Focus on areas where light would hit the strongest, such as edges and prominent features.
Deepening Shadows
Paint: Rhinox HideApplication: Use Rhinox Hide to deepen the shadows and add contrast. Apply it in recessed areas and where different parts of the model meet, to give more definition and depth.
Final Highlights and Sharp Details
Paint: Morrow WhiteApplication: Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights and sharp details, accentuating the most raised edges where the light would be most intense.
Glazing and Smoothing
Technique: GlazingApplication: If necessary, use glazing with the lighter colours to smooth out transitions between highlights and mid-tones, ensuring a more natural progression of colour.
Clean Up
Action: Tidy any overspill or mistakes with appropriate base colours. This step is crucial for a neat and professional finish.
Tips for Success:
Consistency is Key: Maintain the right paint consistency. For NMM, a slightly thicker mix can be preferable for vibrant colours, but it should still flow smoothly.Consider Lighting: Always consider the overall lighting and direction of your model. Your highlights should consistently reflect this light source.Brush Care: Look after your brushes. Use a separate brush for mixing paints to maintain the fine tips of your detail brushes.Patience Pays Off: Allow each layer to dry thoroughly before proceeding to the next. NMM is a technique that benefits greatly from patience and careful layering.
Video – NMM Axe (First Version)
Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps
Initial Blocking In:
Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM.
Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes.
Lightening the Blue-Green Mix:
Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle.
Painting the Upper and Lower Sections:
Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights.
For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide.
Creating Specular Highlights:
Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges.
Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM.
Adding Lightning Effect:
Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects.
Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe.
Glazing and Smoothing:
Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights.
Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment.
Final Touches:
Refine the edges and any rough areas.
If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism.
Tips
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints.
Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes.
Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement.
Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next.
Video – NMM Axe (Second Version)
This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result! You can use whichever you prefer.
Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM (V2)
Materials and Paints Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Baharroth Blue
Rhinox Hide
Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Paints:
Ice Yellow
Neutral Grey
German Grey
Kimera Colours Paint:
Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange)
Materials
Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe.
Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine
Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe.
Preparing the Axe
Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide.
Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights.
Base Painting
Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer.
Base Colours:
For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo).
For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom.
Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom.
Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom.
Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection.
Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality.
Refining the Metallic Look
Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade.
Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas.
Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look.
Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights.
Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights.
Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact.
Video – Head, Eyes, Blood Gem
Materials and Paints Needed:
Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems.
Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas.
Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints.
For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop)
Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3)
Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Details
Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue.
Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance.
Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look.
Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold.
Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left.
Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection.
Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature.
Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look.
Video – Red Shoulder NMM
Paints Needed
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black
Steps
Base and Mapping:
Start with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black to map out where the shiny parts will be.
Apply this mix to create the initial shape of the reflection on the shoulder pad.
Building Layers:
Use gradually lighter mixes of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet, adding Ice Yellow for the lighter tones.
Focus on smooth layering to build up the red tones, paying attention to how light naturally reflects on a curved surface.
Defining the Shine:
For the brightest shine spot, use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Ice Yellow from Games Workshop.
Apply these colours carefully to create a realistic reflection effect.
Painting the Gold Trim:
Start with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide for darker areas.
Progressively mix in Trollslayer Orange and Ice Yellow for brighter sections.
Ensure a smooth transition between the red of the shoulder pad and the gold trim to maintain a cohesive look.
Adding Additional Reflections:
Insert additional shine spots in both the red and gold areas for more depth and realism.
Use stippling techniques to create a diffused yet shiny highlight on the brightest parts.
Be mindful of the shape and direction of these additional reflections to maintain consistency with the light source.
Final Touches:
Use a mix of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for the final glazes to enhance the vibrancy of the red.
Add final highlights with the lightest mix of Ice Yellow and white for the brightest points.
Refinement:
Go back and refine any areas as needed, especially the transitions between highlights and shadows.
Add intricate details such as reflected light on the gold trim to enhance the NMM effect.
Tips
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint-to-water ratio to around 60% water for smoother application and finish.
Reflection Logic: Consider the shape of the shoulder pad and how light interacts with it. Use a lamp to guide your reflection placement.
Edge Highlights: Be careful with edge highlights; ensure they are consistent with the overall light reflection and texture of the surface.
Patience and Layers: Build up the layers gradually for a smooth transition. This is crucial for achieving a realistic NMM effect.
Stippling Technique: Use stippling in the brightest areas to create a diffused highlight, adding depth and realism.
Harmonizing Colours: Ensure the reds and golds complement each other, keeping the overall look cohesive.
Reflective Details: Consider adding subtle reflective details in surrounding areas, like reflected red light on nearby silver parts, to enhance realism.
Rest and Review: Sometimes stepping away from the model and returning with fresh eyes can help spot areas needing refinement or a different approach.
More Tutorials to Explore
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
This video shows how to paint a Grimdark Grimy Death Guard for the Horus Heresy. The model is a new MKIII plastic marine and is painted in the Grimdark style to try and capture the weight and brutal nature of the armour.
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Wildrider Red, Yriel Yellow, Contrast Darkoath Flesh, Contrast Medium, Rhinox Hide, Agrax Earthshade Vallejo: Heavy Blackgreen, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White (Any white will do) Kimera Colours: Black (Any black will do) Pro Acryl: Light Bronze Metallic, Rich Gold Metallic
Top Grimdark Grimy Death Guard Tips!:
Prepare Your Palette: Utilize a wet palette to maintain paint hydration.For the initial dry brushing, use Balor Brown from Games Workshop on a wet palette.Choose the Right Brush:Select a small dry brush, like the Artis Opus dry brush, for the stippling technique.Stippling Technique:Diverge from traditional dry brushing; instead, stipple the paint onto the model.Aim for a disheveled, grimy, and weathered appearance.Start with Balor Brown, advancing to lighter hues like Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, and Yriel Yellow for a textured effect.Application Method:Stipple the paint directly onto the model, concentrating on armour panels.Rotate the model as you paint to ensure each section dries before revisiting.Focus on hitting the model face-on with the brush to create a textured, dotty buildup.Chipping Effect:For chipping effects, use Rhinox Hide with a sponge chipping technique.Contemplate hand-painting some scratches for added detail.Accentuating Details:Employ a fine brush for details like scratches and chips.Highlight specific armour panels for added depth.Contrast and Weathering:Apply Darkoath Flesh contrast paint mixed with contrast medium to unify the your Grimdark Grimy Death Guard.Experiment with adding more brightness by layering appropriately watered-down contrast paints.Highlighting and Shadows:
Highlight edges using Morrow White from P3.Contemplate applying washes like Agrax Earthshade to blend highlights and shadows.Use Ice Yellow from Vallejo for specific details, building up the colour gradually.Fine-Tune Highlights:Use a finer brush to refine highlights and correct any over-spill.Introduce Agrax Earthshade for added depth in recessed areas.Final Touches:Experiment with Wildrider Red and Mephiston Red from Games Workshop for added details.Apply a matte varnish to seal the paint job.Consider adding additional details to your Grimdark Grimy Death Guard like basing with textures and powders.
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Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads
Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger
Preparation:
Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set.
Prime the model with black primer.
Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!)
Helmet Painting:
Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet.
Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls.
Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering.
Metal Painting:
Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects.
Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone.
Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture.
Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas.
Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections.
Leather Parts:
Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide.
Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look.
Highlighting:
Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks.
For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference.
Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast.
For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core.
Skin Painting:
Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown.
Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white.
Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather.
Final Details:
Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look.
Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect.
Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect.
Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions.
Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting!
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This full video shows how to paint an Alchemite Warforger from the Cites of Sigmar, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.This guide will cover various techniques such as non-metallic metal effects (NMM), leather texture, and object source lighting (OSL).
How to paint an Alchemite Warforger Video
You’ll Need:
Alchemite Warforger.
A range of brushes (including a size 3 Artist Opus M brush).
Paints from Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone.
Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral Grey.
P3 paint: Morrow White.
Mininatur Spring Moss Pads for basing.
Let’s Get Started:
Base Coating: Initiate with a base layer of XV-88. This creates an ideal foundation for both gold and bronze non-metallic metal (NMM) effects. Apply these base colours in a relaxed manner; perfection isn’t the goal at this stage.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Bronze/Gold: Use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and a touch of Rhinox Hide. Mix these colours in various ratios to achieve the desired NMM effect.
Leather Textures: For the leather apron and straps, start with a base of Rhinox Hide. Then, build up the texture and highlights with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone, adding Morghast Bone for the lighter areas.
Skin Tones: Begin with Mournfang Brown as the base for the skin. Gradually layer up the skin tones using a mix of Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone, finishing with lighter highlights.
Object Source Lighting (OSL): For the glowing effects, such as the pot’s contents, start with Mephiston Red and build up to Yriel Yellow and Wild Rider Red for the intense glow.
Detailing: Use Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide for the cooler tones, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow and Neutral Grey for the metallic areas. German Grey can be used for darker shadows.
Finishing Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest highlights and final touches. The base can be detailed with Mininatur Spring Moss Pads to add a natural touch.
Remember, painting is about building up layers and textures, so take your time and enjoy the process. Each layer adds depth and character to your Alchemite Warforger.
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This video looks at how to paint a Deathwing Terminator from the new Leviathan boxed set, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.
Video – How to Paint a Deathwing Terminator
The following paints were used
Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow
Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic)
P3: Morrow White
Step by Step Guide
Preparation and Priming:
Assemble the Deathwing Terminator, modifying as desired (e.g., swapping weapons).
Prime the model in black.
Base Coat and Airbrush Highlighting:
Apply a base coat of XV-88.
Highlight with Morghast Bone using an airbrush, focusing on natural light areas.
Applying Contrast Paint:
Mix Darkoath Flesh with Contrast Medium and cover the Deathwing Terminator, emphasising recesses over large, smooth areas.
Highlighting and Texturing:
Hand apply highlights and textures using Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull, targeting brighter airbrushed areas.
Detailing with Black Paint:
Paint areas destined for other colours (metal, red, green) with Black Templar Contrast or thinned black paint.
Metallic Parts:
Apply Vallejo Gunmetal Grey to metal parts.
Use Agrax Earthshade for a matte effect.
Add highlights with Chrome.
Red Areas (Eyes, Lenses, Purity Seals):
Base with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black.
Progressively highlight with Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red.
Green Areas (Chest Eagle):
Base in Vallejo Game Colour Dark Green.
Add highlights by progressively mixing in white.
Bone Armour Texturing and Detailing:
Further texture and scratch effects using Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Screaming Skull.
Mix Morghast Bone with a bit of Mournfang Brown for shadows.
Chest Eagle and Purity Seal Text:
Use fine brushwork for text effects on purity seals with black paint.
Final Highlights and Details:
Apply final highlights with Screaming Skull or white, focusing on areas for maximum contrast.
Blend and soften with Neutral Grey glazing.
Basing:
Base the Deathwing Terminator as preferred, employing sand texturing, painting rocks in German Grey and Neutral Grey, and adding grass tufts.
Finishing Touches:
Add chips and scratches across the armour with Rhinox Hide and Screaming Skull.
Enhance details and edge highlights to complete your Deathwing Terminator!
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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How to Paint a Vampire Lord from the Soulblight Gravelord Armies! This includes NMM shiny steel armour, face and hair, skeleton base tutorial plus a dripping gore-covered mace! Read on to watch the comprehensive set of How to Paint a Vampire Lord tutorials plus key steps, paints and materials guide.
Quick Jump to:
Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel ArmourPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ArmourVideo – How to Paint a Vampire NMM ShieldPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ShieldVideo – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added GorePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory MaceVideo – Vampire Lord Face and HairPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and HairVideo – Skeleton Base Part OnePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton BaseBuilding the BasePainting the BaseFinishing TouchesVideo – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)Paints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton BasePainting the SkeletonPainting the SwordPainting the ClothAdding VegetationVideo – Simple Freehand DragonPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon
Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Paints and Materials
Paints:
Vallejo Neutral Grey: Used for mapping out highlights and base tones on the armour.
Vallejo Ice Yellow: Applied for initial highlights, gives a warm, off-white effect.
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown: Used sparingly for adding depth and richness in transitions.
Games Workshop Abaddon Black: Thinned down and used for glazing to deepen shadows and smooth transitions.
P3 Morrow White: For final bright highlights. Thinned down considerably for a subtle effect.
Brushes:
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and for the stippling technique. I used the Artis Opus range, but any high-quality fine brush will work.
Glazing Brushes: Preferably also with a fine tip, used for applying thinned down glazes of Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black.
Primer:
Ultimate Primer (Black): Used for priming the model before painting.
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Armour
Preparation: Assemble the model but avoid gluing areas like the shield or head that might obstruct painting. Prime the model in black. For this, Ultimate Primer is a good choice.
Base Layer: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey to map out highlight points on the armour. This colour is ideal for desaturated, steel-like effects.
Light Direction and Armour Detailing: Consider the light source and how it hits the model. Focus on areas like the hip covers and rib cage, and map out light and reflections. The Neutral Grey will be useful for creating the base tones.
Initial Highlights: Apply Vallejo Ice Yellow for the highlights. Despite its name, Ice Yellow will give a desaturated, warm white appearance, especially when applied thinly. This is perfect for adding a subtle warmth to the steel.
Refining the Highlights: Use a stippling technique with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, building up the texture and refining the highlights. Remember, this is a gradual process, and patience is key.
Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown: Introduce Games Workshop Mournfang Brown sparingly at transition edges or darker areas for a richer tone. Be cautious not to overdo it, as too much brown can detract from the steel effect.
Glazing for Smoothness: Thin down Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black with water (about 5-6 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply them as glazes. This step will help in smoothing out transitions and adding depth.
Final Highlights with Morrow White: Use P3 Morrow White for final bright highlights. Ensure the white is thinned down and apply it very carefully to the highest points of the armour.Adjusting and Blending: Keep adjusting the highlights and shadows, blending the colours where necessary. This might involve going back and forth between the different shades to achieve a smooth transition.Finish and Review: Once satisfied, review the model under different lighting to ensure the non-metallic metal effect is consistent and realistic.
Throughout this process, keep your paint thin and apply multiple layers for the best results. The key to NMM is patience and gradual building of layers. Remember, each step contributes to the overall metallic effect, so take your time and enjoy the process!
Video – How to Paint a Vampire NMM Shield
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Mephiston Red, Balor BrownVallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice YellowP3: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Shield
Priming and Preparation: The shield should be primed black. The use of Ultramar Varnish is optional.
Base Layering: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey, using scribbly strokes to create a rough and scratchy base.Add a darker grey mixture by blending Neutral Grey with Abaddon Black. This can be substituted with other dark greys like Vallejo German Grey.
Creating Texture: Continue with Neutral Grey, making irregular, scratchy marks. These marks will contribute to a subtle textured look.Focus on building up layers and refining the texture.
Highlighting:Apply a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for initial highlights.Move to Ice Yellow, applying it thinly (1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to avoid a chalky finish.Apply the Ice Yellow in a stippling manner to refine the highlights and cover uneven areas.Painting the Dragon:Base the dragon with Mephiston Red.Create shadows by adding a small amount of Abaddon Black to Mephiston Red.For highlights, mix Mephiston Red with P3 Morrow White (or another white) and apply to raised areas and facets of the dragonGlazing and Refining: Use a heavily diluted mixture of Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, and P3 Morrow White for glazing.Apply the Mournfang Brown for a soft yellow-brown hue in certain areas.Use Abaddon Black to darken and dull areas and to create shadows.Use P3 Morrow White to soften and blend the highlighted areas.
Adding Scratches and Imperfections:Add random scratch-like marks using a very light application for realism.Apply small white dots to suggest nicks and imperfections.
Final Highlights and Adjustments:Go over the shield and dragon, adding final highlights and making adjustments as necessary.Focus on achieving a balanced look from different viewing angles.
Painting the Trim: Paint the trim using a mix of Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red as a base.Layer with Balor Brown, and then add highlights with a mix of Balor Brown and Mournfang Brown.Add final edge highlights and details to match the overall lighting and contrast of the shield.Finishing Touches:
Tidy up any rough edges or over-painted areas.Ensure that the shield’s various sections harmonize in terms of light and contrast.Remember to let each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next, and adjust the thickness of your paints with water to maintain control and avoid a textured buildup.
Video – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added Gore
Paints and Materials
Primer: Black
Paints:
Vallejo Neutral Grey
Vallejo Black
Vallejo Basalt Grey
Vallejo German Grey
Games Workshop Rhinox Hide
Games Workshop Blood for the Blood God
P3 Morrow White
Brushes: Fine detail brushes
Additional: Gloss varnish, super glue, fishing wire for gore effect
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory Mace
Priming: The mace should be primed in black.
Base Layering:
Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey. This can be created with a mix of black and white.
Use Pearl Grey Blue for slight colour variation, though this is optional.
German Grey can also be added to the mix.
Highlighting and Texture:
Focus on picking out angles and curves on the mace.
Ensure brighter parts on surfaces facing you, with darker shades on less visible parts.
Use a combination of different greys to build up layers and create a realistic metal effect.
Detailing:
Pay attention to the many facets of the mace, including chamfered edges and curves.
Use fine brushes for precision in highlighting these small, detailed areas.
Glazing:
Mix Rhinox Hide with a significant amount of water for a thin glaze.
Apply this to mid-tones to shadows, avoiding the brightest highlights.
This step enhances contrast and adds a hint of colour to the mace.
Adding the Gore Effect:
Attach thin strands of fishing wire to the mace using super glue to create dangling gore.
Apply gloss varnish to the connection points for added strength and flexibility.
Once the varnish is dry, cover the fishing wire with “Blood for the Blood God” paint.
Ensure the gore effect is applied in a realistic manner, considering where blood would naturally accumulate and drip from the mace.
Final Touches:
Revisit any areas that need refining or additional highlights.
Make sure the gore effect blends seamlessly with the painted mace.
Allow all layers to dry completely before handling.
Tips:
Take your time with each facet of the mace; precision is key to a realistic look.
Ensure your paint consistency is right for each step – thinner for glazing, thicker for opaquer details.
Be cautious when applying the gore effect; it’s a focal point but shouldn’t overwhelm the detailed painting beneath.
Video – Vampire Lord Face and Hair
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Calgar Blue, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, Mephiston RedVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and Hair
Painting the Face:Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Calgar Blue over the black primer. Expect poor coverage initially. Thin the paint with approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint. Apply 3-4 layers to achieve an opaque finish.
Highlighting: Create a mix of 50/50 Calgar Blue and Cadian Fleshtone. Apply this mix to specific areas of the face, considering the natural light fall. Key areas include the forehead, cheekbones, and areas between the eyes and nose. This mix will start to give a flesh tone, retaining a hint of blue for the undead look.
Further Detailing: Use Cadian Fleshtone and a mix of 50/50 Ushabti Bone and Cadian Fleshtone for additional highlighting. Focus on raised areas and consider how light interacts with facial features. Apply highlights gradually, using a heavily diluted mix for soft transitions.
Eyes and Mouth: Paint the eyes and the inside of the mouth in black. This step ensures these areas are defined and helps balance the highlights on the face.
Painting the Hair:Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey from Vallejo over the black primer. Switch to Khorne Red for a vibrant, contrasting colour to the skin. Thin the paint slightly and apply multiple coats for an even, opaque finish.
Highlighting: Use Ushabti Bone to highlight the hair. Mix it with Khorne Red in varying proportions, increasing the Ushabti Bone content for brighter highlights. Focus on areas where light would naturally hit, creating a shiny, luxurious look.
Glazing for Colour Depth: After highlighting, the hair may appear too desaturated. To bring back the richness of the red, glaze over the hair with a heavily diluted Mephiston Red. This step enhances the red colour while maintaining the shine.
Final Touches on Hair: Optionally, add Abaddon Black to the corn red to create darker shades in the hair, increasing the depth and contrast.
Video – Skeleton Base Part One
Paints and Materials
A skeleton figure from Warhammer Underworlds Warbands
Milliput and Fimo (or slate pieces)
Green stuff (50/50 mix of blue and yellow)
Super glue
Sand (variety in particle size, not sharp sand)
PVA glue (diluted with water)
Base brush (flat Games Workshop brush or equivalent)
Neutral Grey (Vallejo), Deathworld Forest, Morghast Bone, Agrax Earthshade, Athonian Camoshade, Astronomicon Grey (Games Workshop)
Water for thinning paints
Rock material guide by the fantastic Julien Casses:https://www.juliencasses.com/2012/11/how-to-make-rocks
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton Base
Building the Base
Prepare Skeleton: Start by preparing your skeleton figure, ensuring it has a ‘rising from the ground’ appearance.
Create Stone Slabs: Mix Milliput and Fimo, bake at 120°C for 30 minutes, then break into slabs to represent stones. Alternatively, use slate pieces. Attach these slabs to the base with super glue.
Apply Green Stuff: Mix blue and yellow Green Stuff and use it to create a ridge around the skeleton, giving the illusion of a hole from which the skeleton emerges. Embed the Vampire Lord’s rock into the Green Stuff to integrate it with the base.
Add Texture: Sculpt some small, round rocks using Green Stuff for added detail.
Sand Application: Cover the base in beach sand, avoiding sharp sand. Use various particle sizes for a natural look.
Painting the Base
Seal Sand: Brush diluted PVA glue over the sand to seal it and prevent flaking.
Base Colour for Sand: Dry brush the entire base with Deathworld Forest, focusing on sandy areas.
Highlighting Sand: Apply a lighter dry brush of Morghast Bone to the sand for highlights.
Defining Rocks: Use Agrax Earthshade as a thick glaze around the sculpted rocks to define their shapes.
Enhancing Greenery: Apply Athonian Camoshade to enhance the green tones on the base.
Rock Painting: Begin detailed painting on rocks using Neutral Grey. Focus on highlighting angles and adding scratchy details for texture.
Additional Rock Highlights: Use Pelgrave Blue, potentially mixed with white, to highlight rocks further. Remember not to overpower the model with the base’s contrast.
Enhancing Edges: Add lighter edges around rocks using Astronomicon Grey to define shapes.
Finishing Touches
Consider adding other details like small flowers or greenery to the base.
Reflect these colours onto the Vampire Lord for cohesion.
Ensure the base matches the quality and style of your painted model.
Video – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)
Paints and Materials
Paints: XV-88, Balor Brown, Moot Green, Deathworld Forest, Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop); Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black (Vallejo); Iosen Green, Morrow White (P3)
Mininatur Moss Pads and Flowers
Water for thinning paints
Brushes with fine tips
PVA Glue
Jeweler’s tweezers
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton Base
Painting the Skeleton
Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with white paint, thinned down. Apply 2-3 layers for an opaque finish. Avoid overloading to prevent the paint from pooling.
Adding Color to Eyes: Use Pro Acryl Golden Yellow (or any similar yellow) around the edges of the eye sockets, leaving the back white to mimic a light source. Then, use Moot Green, thinned down, around the yellow, ensuring smooth transitions.
Skeleton Bone: Use XV-88 to paint the skull and bones. Apply the paint thinly and unevenly to create a natural, weathered look. Emphasize areas where light would naturally hit, based on the light source direction.
Highlighting Bone: Apply Ushabti Bone for highlights, focusing on raised areas and edges. Keep the paint thin for a smooth finish.
Additional Details: Add small scratches or battle damage marks for realism.
Final Highlights on Bone: Use white (Morrow White) for the final highlights on the most raised areas.
Painting the Sword
Base Colour: Use Neutral Grey to paint the entire sword, including the hilt and blade.
Weathering: Add Mournfang Brown to the blade for a rust effect, focusing on recessed areas and pitted holes.
Highlighting the Blade: Use Pale Grey Blue for highlighting and adding scratchy details, focusing on areas that would catch light.
Rust Details: Add Trollslayer Orange in the deepest recesses for an inverted highlight effect.
Refining Highlights: Go back with Neutral Grey and Pale Grey Blue to refine the highlights and add more detail to the weathered look.
Painting the Cloth
Base Layer: Apply Deathworld Forest over black primer, focusing on raised folds and areas that would catch light.
Highlighting: Use Balor Brown for further highlights, keeping the paint very thin to maintain a dark, grubby appearance.
Adding Vegetation
Applying Moss Pads: Use PVA glue to attach Mininatur Moss Pads around the base. Utilize jeweler’s tweezers for precise placement.
Adding Flowers: Integrate white flowers from Mininatur for additional detail. Trim if necessary to avoid overpowering the base.
Adding Roots: For an emerging effect, glue small roots around the skeleton, bending them to create a natural look.
Dry Brushing: Gently dry brush Balor Brown over the moss pads to integrate them with the base and add depth.
Video – Simple Freehand Dragon
Paints and Materials
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon
Prepare the Surface: Begin by roughly painting the inside of the shield with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide from Games Workshop. These paints should be heavily thinned with approximately two parts water to one part paint. Use a large brush, like a size 2 artist opus brush, for quick and broad coverage. This base coat doesn’t need to perfectly match the shield’s front colour, as it will largely be covered.
Apply Texture: The texture on the back of the shield differs from the front to differentiate it from the armor. Apply the paint in a scratchy manner to simulate wear and tear. For this, use Neutral Grey from Vallejo, mixed with Ice Yellow for highlights, and German Grey for darker areas. Remember, this part doesn’t have to be perfectly blended, as some roughness adds character.
Glazing: If needed, glaze over the scratchy texture with more diluted Rhinox Hide and German Grey. Glazing helps to soften the texture and can hide any imperfections in the painting.
Freehanding the Dragon: When painting the dragon, start with a reference photo of the dragon design on the shield’s front. This helps maintain consistency across the model. Use Vallejo Model Color Black for the dragon outline, ensuring the paint is well-diluted for fine lines.
Brush Selection: Use a fine brush for detailed work. A worn-out brush might not give the sharp lines needed for intricate details. A newer, sharper brush is recommended for finer details and corrections.
Highlighting the Dragon: Start with Neutral Grey for initial highlights. For more pronounced highlights, mix Neutral Grey with Ice Yellow, leaning more towards Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Apply these highlights only to the upper edges of the dragon design, where light would naturally catch.
Adjusting for 3D Effect: Paint the inside of the dragon with a darker grey, such as a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey, to create depth and avoid a flat black appearance.
Final Touches: Add fine highlights to the dragon, especially along the edges and raised areas, to enhance the 3D effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow for the brightest points. Be mindful of the shield’s orientation to ensure that highlights correspond to the light source.
Painting the Shield Trim: Finally, paint the shield’s trim, likely in a gold or metal colour. This trim frames the dragon and gives a polished look to the shield, enhancing the overall appearance.
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This video looks at How to Paint Snikrot the Ork! The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily.
Tools and Paints:
Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner
Step By Step: How to Paint Snikrot the Ork
Priming and Highlighting
Begin with a primed model and apply a highlight using an airbrush and white ink from Vallejo. Thin the white ink with airbrush thinner for a smooth finish.
Ensure the focal points, such as the face and chest, receive extra brightness during airbrushing. The contrast paint naturally enhances shadows and highlights.
Applying Contrast Paints
Use contrast paints for a high tabletop standard. Apply contrast paint to the model, focusing on loading up the brush with a generous amount to let it run into crevices and create shadow effects.
Choose contrast colours based on personal preference, as they all work similarly. I’ve used contrast black (Templar Black) for metal areas.
Leather and Metal Details
Paint leather areas with desert yellow, avoiding excessive thinning as it complements the contrast paints.
For metal areas, use contrast black or any black color of choice. Leave teeth and tongue unpainted, applying a coat of skeleton horde or a chosen pink colour for the tongue.
Matte Varnish
Apply matte varnish to reduce the shiny finish of contrast paints. Vallejo’s matte varnish is recommended for its balanced matte effect.
Use a Wet Palette to Organise Your Paints
Arrange neutral gray, neutral gray mixed with white, black, and dead white for easy access during painting.
Detailing and Highlights
Use grunge brown for detailing and add highlights with desert yellow. Experiment with different water-to-paint ratios for varied effects.
Metallic Effects
Achieve a metallic effect by using opaque white sparingly. Focus on creating highlights on edges and surfaces, making the metal look scratched and darkened.
Creating Texture
Experiment with brushes to create texture on the model. Stipple with an older, worn brush for a more textured effect on specific areas.
Lenses and Final Touches
Paint lenses using turquoise as the base colour and add highlights with Aquamarine or a mix of turquoise and white. Follow a common technique for gem-like effects.
Looking for the Rebecca version?
My wife did an April Fools version of this video, with her voice-over. It can be found below!:
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This video looks at how to paint the Ork special character, Snikrot, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily.
Quick Jump to:
Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!Steps and TipsPriming and HighlightingApplying Contrast PaintPainting DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueSkin HighlightsLeather and StrapsFinal Touches on Metallic AreasLenses and EyesVideo Tutorial – (Richard Version)More Free Video Tutorials
Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner
Steps and Tips
Priming and Highlighting
Prime the model.Apply white ink using an airbrush, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner, focusing on the face and chest for natural light effects.
Applying Contrast Paint
Start with Mantis Warriors Green for the skin. Use a large brush for efficient coverage, allowing the paint to settle in the recesses.For trousers, use Aggaros Dunes, a dark brown contrast paint.Apply another brown contrast paint for the leather areas.Paint all metal areas with Black Legion contrast paint, without worrying about neatness as black will cover any overlapping paint.For bone areas, use Skeleton Horde.
Painting Details
Paint teeth and tongue with Skeleton Horde, and use a pink colour for the tongue.Apply a coat of matte varnish (Mecha Matt Varnish by Vallejo) to reduce the sheen from the contrast paints.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Start with Vallejo Game Colour Neutral Grey for the metallic areas.Create a palette with Neutral Grey, mixed with white and black, and use Dead White for the brightest highlights.
Skin Highlights
Mix Bile Green with white for brighter skin highlights. Focus on the areas where natural light wouldhit, such as the tops of muscles and face.
Leather and Straps
For additional texture and highlights on leather, use Grunge Brown.Apply Desert Yellow for final highlights on leather, following the sculpted creases and stress points.
Final Touches on Metallic Areas
Enhance the metal parts with additional Grunge Brown, focusing on recesses and flat surfaces for a grimy look.Use Dead Flesh for final highlights on metallic areas, achieving a high contrast non-metallic metal effect.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint the lenses starting with Turquoise, followed by Aquamarine for the first highlight.Add a small dot of Dead White at the bottom for a reflective effect.Throughout the process, remember to let each layer dry before applying the next.
Video Tutorial – (Richard Version)
Yep – it was an April Fools! 😀 This was my wife and she wanted to have some fun doing a voice over.She has her own channel here, if you’d like to check out more of her Warhammer New Release unboxings and voice overs, or you can explore them below.
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This video tutorial and step-by-step guide shows how to paint a Desolation Dark Angel, one of the new Desolation Marines from the Strike Force Agastus, which was sent to me by Games Workshop. Read on for a full video, lots of tips and full materials and paints list.
Video Tutorial – Desolation Dark Angel
Materials:
Vallejo Model Colour (New): Angel Green, Charcoal, Toxic Yellow, Black, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Grunge Brown, Orange Fire, Nocturnal Red, Scarlet Blood
Games Workshop: Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium
Two Thin Coats: Plate Armour, Dragon’s Gold
P3: Morrow White
Steps:
Base Coat:Mix Angel Green and Charcoal (50:50 ratio).Apply this mix over the entire model using a large dry brush or makeup brush.Water the paint down slightly for a smoother application, aiming for a 50:50 water-to-paint ratio.
Layering:Apply straight Angel Green on top, using a kitchen roll to dab off excess paint for a thin layer.Focus on light volumes, covering flat surfaces more than edges.
Metallics:Paint metallic areas using Two Thin Coats’ Plate Armour and Dragon’s Gold.Thin these slightly for better flow and coverage.
Red Details:Use Nocturnal Red and Scarlet Blood for red areas, like the gun.Mix them for a base layer, then use Scarlet Blood mixed with a bit of white for highlights.
Adding Depth:Use Vallejo Black for shading and defining darker areas.
Highlighting Armour:Create three mixes on your palette: pure Angel Green, a 50:50 mix of Angel Green and Toxic Yellow, and a majority Toxic Yellow with a small amount of Angel Green.Apply these mixes progressively, starting with the darkest and moving to the lightest for highlights. Use a brush control technique similar to edge highlighting.
Contrast and Washes:Apply Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) selectively, followed by Contrast Medium for dilution in specific areas.Use Nuln Oil for metallic parts to create depth.
Detailing Metallics:Add highlights to metallic areas using a mix of Plate Armour and white.
Eyes and Lenses:Paint eyes with a base of Nocturnal Red, adding highlights with a mix of Scarlet Blood and white.Use a small white dot for reflection. For lenses, use Turquoise mixed with Charcoal, then highlight with Aquamarine and pure white.
Final Touches:Add fine scratches and details using lighter shades of the base colours.For the belt, use Grunge Brown base and Orange Fire for highlights.
Basing:Apply PVA glue and sand.Once dry, wash with Agrax Earthshade and apply weathering powder.
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This video and step by step guide shows paint and oil weathering on a Plastic Sicaran from Games Workshop. I use some fun techniques and paints, including Imperial Fist Contrast paint and oil paint for some oil weathering!
Video: Paint and Oil Weathering on a Plastic Sicaran
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints Used:
Paints:
Games Workshop: XV-88, Sotek Green, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black, Daemonette Hide, Doomfire Magenta (Contrast), Asurmen Blue (Contrast), Black Legion (Contrast)
Vallejo: German Grey, Metal Burnt Iron
Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (Series 1 oil paint), Black
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Vallejo Mecha Varnish: Gloss and Matt
Other Materials:
Sansodoor mineral spirit
Abteilung 502: Desert and Sand Pigment set
Micro Set for decals
Airbrush (for various stages of painting)
Brushes of various sizes
Sponge (for weathering)
Card for stencil work
Wet palette
Water jar
Step-by-Step Guide:
1. Base Coating:
Start with an airbrush application of XV-88, focusing on avoiding the tracks and recesses to ease later stages.
Thin the paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner for a smoother flow and less blockage.
2. Adding Transitions:
Add white to XV-88 to lighten it for transition layers.
Apply the transition layers by hand, focusing on areas where light and shadow would naturally occur, to create a modulation effect.
3. Applying Contrast Paint:
Use Imperial Fist Contrast paint over the entire tank for a vibrant yellow hue. This step ties together all the previous layers.
4. Highlighting the Turret:
Start with German Grey, followed by Daemonette Hide, and a mix of Daemonette Hide and white for successive highlights. Be mindful of the position of highlights.
5. Metallic Areas:
Use Vallejo Metal Color Burnt Iron for metallic sections. Don’t worry about minor mistakes as they will be covered in the weathering process.
6. Weathering with Sponge:
Apply Rhinox Hide with a sponge, focusing on edges and areas where wear would naturally occur. Rotate the sponge to avoid a uniform pattern.
7. Detailed Chipping:
Use a brush for detailed chipping and scrapes, focusing on the front of the tank and areas near the tracks.
8. Decals:
Apply decals using Micro Set, followed by a gloss varnish, and finally a coat of matt varnish.
9. Streaking and Oil Washes:
Use Burnt Sienna oil paint for rust streaks, applied in small blobs and streaked with a damp brush dipped in mineral spirits.
For an oil wash, mix Burnt Sienna and Black, thinned with mineral spirits, and apply into recesses and around rivets.
10. Heat Bloom on Weapons:
Spray weapon tips with chrome, then apply layers of Imperial Fist yellow, Doomfire Magenta, and Asurmen Blue, followed by black at the tips.
11. Applying Weathering Powder:
Use a dry weathering powder around lower sections and tracks for a dusty effect. Fix the powder with a light airbrushing of matt varnish.
12. Painting Lenses:
Start with Sotek Green mixed with a bit of black, then layer with increasingly lighter shades of Sotek Green and white, focusing on smooth transitions.
13. Final Weathering and Varnishing:
Dry brush tracks with Burnt Iron, focusing on raised areas.
Finish with a coat of ultra matt varnish to unify all elements and add protection.
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This video looks at the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and I use them to paint a very colourful Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer. Read on to watch and follow along with a detailed step-by-step paints and steps guide.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mantis Warriors Green (Contrast), Striking Scorpion Green (Contrast), Karandras Green (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Magmadroth Flame (Contrast), Baal Red (Contrast), Doomfire Magenta (Contrast), Sigvald Burgundy (Contrast), Seraphim Sepia (Shade), Flash Gitz Yellow, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Xereus Purple
Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Matt
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
Priming and Preparing the Model Start by assembling and priming your Gossamid Archer model. Use Wraithbone as a base colour, which helps in achieving brighter, cleaner colours. If you want an even brighter finish, you can spray the whole model white. A zenithal highlight can be applied to create natural focal points on the head and chest, allowing for more dynamic shading.
Applying Base Colours with Contrast Paints Begin painting with a variety of contrast paints to achieve a vibrant and varied colour scheme. Use a large brush like an Artist Opus size 4 for quick application. Key contrast paints to use are Striking Scorpion Green, Karandras Green, and Garaghak’s Sewer. While the paints are still wet, you can blend them together on the model for a smooth transition. However, be cautious of drying times to avoid streaking.
Correcting and Refining with Airbrush If needed, refine areas with an airbrush. For instance, overpainting with Striking Scorpion Green can provide a more opaque and smoother finish, especially on the wings.
Mixing Contrast Paints with Acrylics Contrast paints can be mixed with regular acrylics for more versatility. Mix Striking Scorpion Green with P3 Morrow White to create various shades for highlighting. This method allows for smooth transitions and a semi-translucent finish.
Painting Wings with Dragonfly Effect For a dragonfly-like effect on the wings, use a mix of Striking Scorpion Green and white to paint vein-like lines, emulating a dragonfly’s wing pattern. Start with basic lines, then create four-sided shapes like rectangles or squares, resembling the vein structure. The lines don’t need to be perfect, as the organic nature of the wings allows for some variation. Ensure your brush isn’t overloaded with paint for finer lines.
Skin and Body Details For the skin, use Magmadroth Flame contrast paint, which provides a strong, vibrant base while still allowing for natural shading in recesses. For the arm and other body parts, apply Sigvald Burgundy, Baal Red, Doomfire Magenta, and other contrast colours, blending while they are wet for a smooth transition. Use smaller brushes for detailed areas, and ensure you cover all surfaces.
Highlighting and Detailing Highlight the skin by mixing Magmadroth Flame with Kislev Flesh, gradually adding more Kislev Flesh and white for higher highlights. Apply these mixes to the raised areas like shoulders, chest, and arms. For the hair, start with a vibrant base of Flash Gitz Yellow, dulled down with a Seraphim Sepia wash. Highlight by adding white to Flash Gitz Yellow for a striking effect.
Bow and Other Accessories Paint the bow using Rhinox Hide, XV-88, and Balor Brown, adding white for final highlights. Keep the painting simple, avoiding overly intricate freehand patterns unless desired. Remember to mix and match colours to add more interest to the model.
Finishing Touches with Matt Varnish Once the painting is complete, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This will unify the finish of the model, reducing any unwanted shine from the contrast paints and enhancing the overall appearance.
More Contrast Paint Projects and Tutorials
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This video tutorial looks at how to paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paints, using a couple of the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and specifically using ‘Imperial Fist’ paint! I also go through top techniques and tips you can use on all your Space Marines.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints and materials were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust Manifold
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Micro Set
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00,
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
Preparing the Base Coat
Start with Mournfang Brown as the base coat. This provides a solid foundation and eliminates black elements that might affect the final colour. Apply a thin, even layer to ensure a smooth finish.
Creating a Pre-Shade Effect
To create a pre-shade effect, mix P3 Morrow White with Mournfang Brown. This technique helps in achieving both highlights and shadows in one go. Avoid taking the pre-shade highlight all the way up to pure white unless you desire a very bright yellow.
Applying Imperial Fist Contrast Paint
Use the Imperial Fist contrast paint, a bright yellow, over the pre-shaded model. This contrast paint is translucent and needs a light base for optimal results. Apply it evenly, focusing on the model’s raised areas to enhance the pre-shade effect. If the first coat appears too orange, apply a light layer of P3 Morrow White on the desired areas and reapply the contrast paint for a brighter yellow.
Enhancing Highlights with White
For areas requiring a more vibrant yellow, directly apply P3 Morrow White using an airbrush. This step significantly brightens up the yellow tones, providing a more striking appearance to the model.
Adding Depth with Contrast Paints
Experiment with Rattling Grime contrast paint for adding depth. If it appears too dark, dilute it with Contrast Medium. Apply it sparingly, especially in recessed areas, to create natural shadows.
Applying Matte Varnish
Once the contrast paints are dry, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This helps to dull any unwanted shine and sets the base for further detailing.
Glazing with Yriel Yellow
Create a glaze by heavily thinning down Yriel Yellow with water. Apply this glaze selectively to the model’s raised areas, building up the colour in thin layers. This process enhances the vibrancy of the yellow and adds more dimension.
Detailing with Additional Colours
Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for detailing elements like scroll work. These colours contrast well with the yellow and bring out the finer details. For battle damage, use Rhinox Hide or a similar dark colour to create chips and scratches.
Highlighting Battle Damage
Mix Yriel Yellow with a bit of white (or use Dawn Yellow) for highlighting the lower edges of the battle damage. This creates a more realistic chipped paint effect.
Painting the Weapon
For the bolter or other weapons, use a combination of German Grey and Neutral Grey from Vallejo. Apply them in a gradient for a realistic metallic effect, and use black to blend and soften transitions.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint lenses and eyes using Sotek Green, gradually adding white to the mix for successive highlights. Ensure the brightest highlights are off-centre for a natural glow effect.
Finishing Touches
Finally, apply Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand to the base and lower parts of the legs for a gritty, battle-worn look. Seal with a matte varnish to fix the powder in place.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in Imperial First colours from the new Horus Heresy boxed game. Many of you were asking for help painting a model in this style without using an airbrush or oils – so here he is!
Video: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step by Step Guide: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought
Initial Preparation
Begin with assembling the Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought. Keep arms and backpack separate for easier painting. Prime your Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in black to set the stage for the upcoming colours.
Base Coating with Mournfang Brown Start with Mournfang Brown, heavily diluted with water for a translucent effect. Using a large brush, apply the paint in a stippling motion. This technique creates a mottled, weathered look on the model. Multiple thin coats are needed, around three or four, to achieve the desired coverage.
Creating Highlights Mix P3 Morrow White (or any available white paint) with Mournfang Brown. This mixture is used for creating highlights on the model. Apply with a smaller dry brush for more controlled and precise placement of highlights, especially on areas like the chest and upper stomach.
Adding Layers and Textures Progress with the painting by layering and texturing the model. Focus on building up colours gradually. Use the stippling method to apply these layers, which enhances the weathered and battle-worn appearance.
Incorporating Uriel Yellow Uriel Yellow, diluted in a similar fashion to Mournfang Brown, is used next. It’s important to keep the brush damp, not wet, to avoid the paint running. Apply in a dabbing motion, focusing on areas where light naturally falls. This stage is crucial for developing the yellow hue characteristic of the Imperial Fist.
Glazing and Fine Details Move to glazing layers using Uriel Yellow. This involves a thinner consistency and focuses on the model’s focal points like the head and chest. Pay attention to edges and hard lines, using a fine brush for precise application.
Weathering and Final Touches For weathering effects, employ Rhinox Hide for chipping and damage marks. Apply these strategically across the model to create a realistic battle-damaged effect. Focus on edges and areas likely to receive wear.
Enhancing Eyes and Metal Details Sotek Green is used for the eyes, creating a layered effect with a transition from green-blue to pure white. For metal parts, use Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold and Copper, applying carefully due to their fluid nature.
Applying Transfers and Final Varnishing After applying decals or transfers, coat them with gloss varnish to blend them seamlessly into the model. Use Micro Set for applying and setting the transfers.
Base Details Finish by creating a cohesive base using Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Apply multiple layers, interspersed with matte varnish, to build up a textured, grimy effect that complements your Contemptor Dreadnought
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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A series of videos on how I painted my Aeldari Autarch (Eldritch Omens). This includes the pearlescent NMM armour, the soulstones, sword and Death Spinner(s)!
Scroll down to explore the tutorials in order, or look at specific parts or techniques of your Aeldari Autarch by clicking one of the links below:
Video – Aeldari Autarch ArmourMaterials NeededVideo – Aeldari Autarch SoulstoneMaterials NeededStep-by-Step Guide:Video: Aeldari Autarch Power SwordMaterials Needed:Step by Step GuideVideo – Aeldari Autarch Death Spinner WraithboneMaterials NeededStep-by-Step GuideVideo – Aeldari Autarch Death Spinner (Black)Materials NeededStep by Step GuideVideo: How to Paint Autarch Armour, Sash and WeaponMaterials NeededVideo: How to Paint a Freehand Spider GemMaterials Needed:Step 1: Prepare the BaseStep 2: Freehand the SpiderStep 3: Add Highlights and ShadingStep 4: Glazing for SmoothnessStep 5: Final Touches and EdgingStep 6: Finishing UpMore Aeldari/Eldar!
Video – Aeldari Autarch Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Base Paints: Vallejo Turquoise (Sotek Green can be used as an alternative), Vallejo Black
Highlight Paint: P3 Morrow White (or any high-quality white paint)
Brushes: Fine detail brushes, including a customised, cut-down brush for stippling
Palette: Preferably a wet palette for mixing and maintaining paint consistency
Water: For thinning paints
Step-by-Step Guide
Assembly and Priming: Assemble your Autarch, ensuring clean joins and smooth surfaces. Prime the model in black to enhance the depth and contrast of the subsequent layers.
Base Coating
Initial Base Coat: Mix Vallejo Turquoise with a small amount of black to create a dark base colour. Apply this mixture evenly across the armour, setting the stage for the lighter highlights to come. This base layer helps in mapping out the armour’s contours and provides a foundation for building contrast.
Highlighting
Mixing Highlights: Create several shades of turquoise by mixing the base Vallejo Turquoise with varying amounts of black for darker shades and white for lighter shades. This range will allow you to build up the shiny armour effect through gradual layering.
Applying Highlights: Start highlighting areas where light naturally hits the armour, such as the helmet’s curvature. Use a “scratchy” application method for this initial layer to block in the highlight areas without aiming for perfection.
Refining Highlights
Stippling Technique: Shift to a stippling technique with a customised brush (cut down to keep the tip thin) to apply the finer, lighter highlights. This approach allows for more precise control over the intensity and spread of the highlights, contributing to the shiny armour effect.
Enhancing the Shine: Focus on areas that would reflect light more intensely, such as the helmet’s forehead and other raised surfaces. Gradually lighten these highlights by adding more white to the turquoise, working towards pure white for the most intense reflections.
Adding Depth and Detail
Creating Contrast: Apply darker shades into recesses and around the edges of the lighter highlights to enhance contrast and depth. This step is crucial for making the shiny effect believable and visually striking.
Detailing with Black: Use Vallejo Black to paint areas such as the faceplate, ensuring to keep these areas distinct and not overly bright to avoid detracting from the focal points of the armour.
Finishing Touches
Edge Highlighting: Use the lightest turquoise mix to carefully edge highlight the armour, defining its shapes and enhancing the overall shininess. Be precise and consistent with these highlights to maintain the model’s clean appearance.
Final Adjustments: Review the model for any areas that need softening or additional contrast. Use glazes (thin, transparent layers of paint) to adjust the intensity of the highlights or shadows as necessary.
Video – Aeldari Autarch Soulstone
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Fine detail brushes
Palette for mixing paints
Water for thinning paints
Paints Used:
Games Workshop: Khorne Red, Pink Horror
Vallejo: Pink, Black
P3: Morrow White (or any high-quality white paint)
Step-by-Step Guide:
Base Coating: Begin by painting the entire soulstone with Khorne Red. Aim for a smooth, even coat. If the paint is too thick, thin it with a bit of water (about 50/50 ratio). Let dry and apply a second coat if necessary for full coverage.
Creating the Horizon Line: Mix Khorne Red with a tiny amount of black to darken it slightly. Paint a wobbly horizon line towards the bottom of the soulstone, simulating a shadowed effect. This line doesn’t need to be perfectly straight; a bit of curvature adds to the natural look.
Blending the Horizon: Below this line, blend back to the original Khorne Red, creating a smooth transition. You can achieve this by using a damp brush to soften the edge between the two colours.
Adding Highlights: On the upper part of the soulstone, start highlighting with Pink Horror. Near the horizon line, make this highlight bright and prominent, fading it as you move upwards. Mix Pink Horror with Vallejo Pink to lighten it for further highlights, applying these closer to the top of the gem.
Enhancing the Gem Effect: Introduce a brighter layer by using a mix of Vallejo Pink and white. This should be applied sparingly, focusing on the top edges and areas you want to emphasise the most.
Defining the Edges: Carefully outline the left and right edges of the soulstone with the light pink mix. This step requires a steady hand to achieve a thin, precise line that enhances the gem’s shape.
Final Touches: Add a small dot of P3 Morrow White at the top left of the soulstone to simulate a reflection point, making the gem appear more lustrous. Optionally, add a tiny white dot on the opposite bottom right to suggest light passing through the gem.
Adjusting and Correcting: If any areas need adjustment, gently glaze over them with the base colours to correct the intensity or blend. Always allow paint to dry between layers to avoid muddying the colours.
Video: Aeldari Autarch Power Sword
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed:
Vallejo Neutral Grey
Vallejo Ice Yellow
Games Workshop Yriel Yellow
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown
Games Workshop Abaddon Black
Games Workshop Sotek Green
P3 Morrow White
A mix of Neutral Grey and Yriel Yellow
A mix of Ice Yellow and Morrow White
Step by Step Guide
Base Coating: Start by applying a base coat of Vallejo Neutral Grey across the sword. This serves as a solid foundation for building up the NMM gold effect.
Initial Highlights: Mix Vallejo Neutral Grey with a small amount of Yriel Yellow to create your first highlight layer. Focus this mixture towards the edges and points of the sword where light would naturally be strongest.
Enhancing the Highlights: Gradually introduce lighter shades by adding more Yriel Yellow and then Ice Yellow into your mixes. Apply these to the most pronounced edges and features to simulate the effect of light reflecting off the metal.
Defining Reflections: Pay attention to the dynamic shape of the sword, applying strategic highlights to suggest the reflection of light on its surface. This includes the curvature near the tip and along the flat of the blade.
Deepening Shadows: Use a mixture of Neutral Grey and a touch of black to deepen the shadows along the less illuminated parts of the sword. This contrast is crucial for the NMM effect.
Finishing Touches: For the brightest points of light reflection, mix Ice Yellow with Morrow White and apply sparingly to the very tips and edges where light would hit directly.
Glazing for Depth: Glaze the sword with thin layers of Mournfang Brown and Sotek Green to add colour depth and variety, enhancing the alien quality of the weapon.
Final Highlights: Use pure white to add final highlights to the most prominent areas. This step is critical for creating the illusion of a gleaming, reflective surface.
Throughout this process, remember the importance of maintaining thin paint consistency to avoid clumping and to achieve the smoothest transitions possible. If you encounter challenges with colour transitions, consider creating bridge transitions by mixing intermediate shades.
Video – Aeldari Autarch Death Spinner Wraithbone
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Base Paints: Games Workshop Dryad Bark
Layer Paints: Games Workshop Baneblade Brown, Karak Stone, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull
Highlight Paints: Games Workshop Evil Sunz Scarlet, Sotek Green, Warpstone Glow, P3 Morrow White (or any white paint)
Brushes: Fine detail brushes for texture and highlight application
Palette: For mixing and thinning your paints
Water: For thinning paints to the desired consistency
Step-by-Step Guide
Start with a Black Base: Ensure your miniature is primed in black. This will deepen the subsequent layers of paint, adding to the aged effect.
Apply Dryad Bark: Cover the entire weapon in a layer of Dryad Bark. This dark brown serves as a rich foundation for the wraithbone texture.
Layering
First Layer with Baneblade Brown: Apply Baneblade Brown over the Dryad Bark, focusing on the areas that will catch light. Don’t worry about perfect coverage; the slight translucency adds to the texture.
Add Karak Stone Highlights: Layer Karak Stone over the Baneblade Brown, enhancing the lighter areas and beginning to define the wraithbone texture. Again, embrace the paint’s translucency to build depth.
Texture and Detailing
Fine Texture with Morghast Bone: Use Morghast Bone to start adding fine, squiggly textures resembling weathered bone. Use the very tip of your brush and light pressure to create jagged, circular shapes.
Enhance Texture with Ushabti Bone: Increase the texture’s visibility by applying Ushabti Bone, focusing on shadowed areas and blending into the lighter sections for a smooth transition.
Highlight with Screaming Skull: Apply Screaming Skull sparingly to the most raised areas and edges to simulate light reflecting off the bone’s surface. This layer should be thin and focused.
Final Highlights and Corrections
Bright Highlights with White: Use P3 Morrow White (or any white paint) diluted with water to add final touches to the texture, focusing on the highest points and sharpest edges. This step brings out the detail and adds a sense of dimension to the wraithbone.
Adjust Texture and Contrast: If necessary, go back with previous colours to adjust the texture and contrast. This could mean softening too-bright areas with Screaming Skull or Ushabti Bone or deepening shadows with Morghast Bone.
Adding Colour and Detail
Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet: For the weapon’s energy filaments, start with a base of Evil Sunz Scarlet. Draw fine lines to mimic lightning or energy crackling from one end to the other.
Mix in White for Highlights: Gradually add white to your Evil Sunz Scarlet to lighten the colour for the highlights. Focus these lighter shades towards the base (or top, depending on orientation) of the energy filaments, creating a gradient effect.
Incorporate Sotek Green and Warpstone Glow: To add a unique touch and colour variation, introduce Sotek Green and Warpstone Glow sparingly into the wraithbone texture. This can simulate moss or growth, adding to the ancient appearance. Use these greens lightly to avoid overwhelming the bone texture.
Painting a wraithbone texture on your Aeldari Autarch Deathspinner involves a delicate balance of layering, texture creation, and strategic highlighting. By following these steps and adjusting based on your model’s specific details and your personal preference, you can achieve a beautifully aged, textured effect that stands out on the battlefield. Remember, the key to this technique is patience and layering; build your colours gradually for the most natural and detailed result.
Video – Aeldari Autarch Death Spinner (Black)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Base Paint: Vallejo Model Color Black
Highlight Paints: Vallejo Basalt Grey, and any white paint (I’ve used P3 Morrow White, but any white will do)
Mixing Palette: For creating various shades of grey
Fine Detail Brushes: For precise application of highlights
Water: For thinning paints
Step by Step Guide
Base Coating
Prepare the Miniature: Ensure your Aeldari Autarch Deathspinner is clean, primed, and ready for painting. If you’ve previously painted it, as I have, ensure the model is painted over in Vallejo Model Color Black. This provides a flat, non-satin finish that’s perfect as a canvas for our shiny black effect.
Highlights
Observe the Model: Look at the shapes and details of the model. Identify areas that will naturally catch the light, such as edges, raised surfaces, and textures. The Deathspinner has a mix of flat and curved surfaces, which will influence our highlight placement.
Create a Gradient Palette: Mix Vallejo Basalt Grey with black to create several shades of grey, from dark to light. Also, prepare a mix with white to create lighter greys. These will be used to build up the highlights gradually.
Start with Mid-Tones: Begin highlighting with a mid-tone grey, not the darkest shade. This helps in mapping out the highlights clearly without committing to high contrast immediately. Apply this mid-tone grey to areas you’ve identified as natural light catchers.
Increase Contrast: Gradually work your way up through the shades of grey you’ve mixed, moving towards the lighter greys and eventually white. Focus on smaller areas within the already highlighted sections to create a sense of light reflecting off a shiny surface.
Edge Highlighting: Use fine detail brushes to apply edge highlights meticulously. This step is crucial for defining the shapes and textures of the model, making them stand out against the black base.
Refining the Highlights
Adjust the Highlights: If any area looks too grey or the contrast isn’t high enough, go back in with your darker greys or black to redefine the shadows. This step is about balancing the overall look to maintain the illusion of a shiny black surface.
Glazing: Mix a glaze using Vallejo Model Color Black thinned down with water. Use this to subtly adjust the intensity of your highlights and shadows, smoothing out transitions and ensuring that the black remains the dominant colour.
Final Touches
Sharpening Highlights: For the brightest points, use white or a very light grey to add final touches. These should be very small, focused on the most prominent areas where light would naturally be most intense.
Cleanup: Review your Aeldari Autarch and clean up any areas where the paint may have overstepped. Use black to correct any mistakes and sharpen the edges.
Video: How to Paint Autarch Armour, Sash and Weapon
Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Khorne Red, Wazdakka Red, Pink Horror
Vallejo: Turquoise (Game Colour), Ice Yellow, Black
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Size 00 brush (for fine details)
Synthetic mixing brush (to avoid shedding hairs)
Size 0 or larger brushes for broader areas
Step by Step guide
Step 1: How to Paint Autarch Armour Base
We’ll start by focusing on the armour of the Autarch. The base colour I’m using is Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise. This is an older paint, but any similar turquoise shade will work. Begin by mixing the turquoise with some black to darken it slightly. Apply this mix as the base coat across the armour.
Blocking in Highlights: Once the base coat is dry, start mapping out the primary highlights using the pure turquoise. Focus on areas where light naturally hits the model, such as the tops of the knees and the edges of the shoulder pads. Remember to hold the model under a lamp to check where the light falls.
Highlight Transitions: To create smooth transitions, mix the turquoise with P3 Morrow White, creating several intermediate shades. Start layering these progressively lighter shades onto the armour, focusing on the primary highlights and then adding secondary and environmental reflections.
Step 2: Refining Armour Highlights
As you build up the highlights, pay attention to the contrast between light and dark areas. This contrast helps create a sense of depth and realism on the model.
Adjusting Light Sources: Continue refining the primary highlights, ensuring that they are the brightest points on the armour. Secondary highlights should be slightly darker to maintain the illusion of directional light.
Stippling Technique: For the most refined areas, such as the knees and shoulders, use a stippling technique with very fine brush control. This creates a texture that mimics light reflecting off a glossy surface, adding to the realism.
Step 3: Painting the Sash
Next, we’ll work on the sash, which presents its own challenges due to its position on the model. The colours I’ve used for the sash start with a base of Khorne Red, followed by Wazdakka Red, and then Pink Horror, progressively adding P3 Morrow White for the highlights.
“I based them roughly off of the colours for the gems… starting off with Khorne Red, then Wazdakka Red, then Pink Horror, then adding more P3 Morrow White.”
Highlight Placement: Start by applying the base of Khorne Red, then work up through Wazdakka Red and Pink Horror, focusing on the raised areas and where light would naturally fall. The sash around the waist and between the legs requires careful brush control due to the tight spaces.
Blending Technique: Use fine, parallel brush strokes to create smooth transitions between the shadows and highlights. Turning the model upside down can help you access hard-to-reach areas and maintain consistent brush strokes.
Step 4: Non-Metallic Gold Elements
Finally, we’ll tackle the non-metallic gold (NMM) elements on the gun. For this, I’ve used a combination of Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and Rhinox Hide.
Mapping the Highlights: Start by covering the areas in Mournfang Brown. Then, using XV-88, map out where the highlights will go, focusing on the edges and areas where light would naturally catch.
Building the Gold Effect: Gradually layer up to Balor Brown and Ice Yellow, adding more white to the mix for the brightest highlights. Keep the transitions smooth by carefully blending the edges of each layer.
Adding Depth with Shadows: Use Rhinox Hide to darken the recesses and add shadow lines between the highlights. This contrast is essential for making the NMM effect pop.
“You’re just going to be going over and over some of these lines until you get it exactly right… it’s brush control and precision work.”
Final Tips and Touch-Ups
After completing the main areas, take some time to review the model and make any necessary touch-ups. Pay close attention to the transitions and ensure that all highlights are consistent and well-blended.
Further Tips:
Lighting and Photos: Use a lamp to check your highlights and take photos to spot areas that might need refining. Reviewing your work from different angles will help catch any inconsistencies.
Brush Control: Practice fine motor control with a magnifying headset if needed. The more you practice, the easier it will become to achieve smooth, consistent stippling and fine detail work.
Video: How to Paint a Freehand Spider Gem
Materials Needed:
Vallejo Game Color Turquoise
Vallejo Model Color Black
P3 Morrow White
Cyber Green (optional)
Fine Detail Brush (I used Artis Opus Size 00)
Wet Palette
Thin Sandpaper or a file (for smoothing any rough textures)
Kitchen Roll (for cleaning your brush)
Step 1: Prepare the Base
Mix the Base Colour: Begin by mixing Vallejo Game Color Turquoise with a small amount of Vallejo Model Color Black. The mix should be slightly darker than pure Turquoise but not overwhelmingly dark.
Apply the Base Coat: Paint the entire round section with this base mix. Ensure an even coverage and let it dry completely.
Adjust the Colour: If the initial base appears too dark or too light, adjust by adding more Turquoise or Black until you achieve the desired shade. This layer will be the foundation for the freehand spider.
Step 2: Freehand the Spider
Rough Outline: Start by lightly sketching the spider shape onto the base layer using a thinned version of the base colour. This is just to block in the general shape and position, so don’t worry about precision at this stage.
Refine the Outline: Once the rough sketch is in place, begin refining the edges using P3 Morrow White mixed with Turquoise (add more white to the mix as needed). This mix should be lighter than the base colour but not too stark. Sharpen the edges to define the spider’s legs and body clearly.
Symmetry Consideration: It’s difficult to achieve perfect symmetry, especially with freehand work. Consider making the spider asymmetrical to avoid the stress of perfect alignment. Small variances will make the design look more natural.
Step 3: Add Highlights and Shading
Stippling Technique: Use a stippling technique to gradually build up highlights. Dip your fine detail brush into the lighter mix (Turquoise + more white), and apply tiny, controlled dots across the spider and the background gem surface. Start with lighter pressure to achieve smaller dots.
Transition Shading: For the edges of the spider, use a mix with slightly more white added to the Turquoise. Gradually build up the brightness by adding more stipples. Focus on the areas where the light would naturally hit, such as the top of the spider’s legs and body.
Soft Shading: Introduce a small amount of Cyber Green into the stippling process for added depth and interest. Use this sparingly to avoid overpowering the original colour scheme.
Step 4: Glazing for Smoothness
Thin Glaze: Mix a very thin glaze using the base colour or slightly lighter mix. Apply this glaze over the entire spider and gem area to soften the stippling effect and blend the highlights smoothly. Be careful not to obscure the details you’ve painstakingly created.
Glazing the Spider: If desired, add a final glaze of Cyber Green over the spider to enhance the depth and give a slight variation to the shine. Ensure the glaze is very thin, so it doesn’t overpower the design.
Step 5: Final Touches and Edging
Edge Highlighting: Use the side of your brush and apply a very fine line of the lightest mix (nearly white) to the edges of the round gem to create a sharp, defined boundary. This step will make the gem pop visually.
Enhance the Spider Details: Add small highlights to the spider’s legs and body with a fine tip brush using the lightest mix. This will give the spider a more three-dimensional appearance.
Check for Consistency: Review the entire section for any inconsistencies in stippling or shading. Add additional stipples or glazes as needed to ensure a smooth, cohesive finish.
Step 6: Finishing Up
Smooth Any Imperfections: If there are any rough spots or texture issues, gently sand them with fine sandpaper or a file.
Final Inspection: Take photos or view the model under different lighting to check for any imperfections. Make any last adjustments to ensure the spider gem looks polished and consistent.
Seal the Work: Once you’re satisfied with the result, consider applying a thin layer of matte or satin varnish to protect your work.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists in Beakie armour, from the Horus Heresy.
Video – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral GreyWindsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust ManifoldP3: Morrow White (Any White will do).
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00.
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists
Base Coating with Mournfang BrownBegin by airbrushing or hand painting Mournfang Brown onto the miniatures, creating a solid base for subsequent layers.
Highlight Placement Lighten Mournfang Brown with a bit of white, applying it to areas of natural highlights like upward-facing surfaces.
Applying Yriel Yellow Over the pre-shaded miniatures, apply thinned Yriel Yellow, bringing out the Imperial Fists’ iconic yellow.
Detailing with Mephiston Red Use Mephiston Red for the sergeant’s red head stripe, distinguishing the squad leader.
Eyes and Weapons Paint eyes and weapon details black, setting the stage for later detailing.
Metallic Elements Apply Vallejo Metal Exhaust Manifold to metallic areas, focusing on weapon coils and armour studs.
Gloss Varnishing for Decals Apply a coat of gloss varnish over the miniatures to smooth the surface for decal application.
Decal Application Carefully apply Imperial Fist decals, using microset for proper adherence and fit.
Oil Washes for Depth Create a wash with Burnt Sienna, Black, and Sansodor mineral spirit, enhancing depth and worn appearance.
Matte Varnishing After the oil wash dries, apply a coat of matte varnish to seal previous layers and prepare for final detailing.
Enhancing Yellow Highlights Revisit yellow areas with thinned-down Yriel Yellow, creating bright focal points.
Eyes and Plasma Effect Create glowing effects with Sotek Green mixed with white, applying to eyes and plasma details.
Weathering with Rhinox Hide Add a battle-worn effect using Rhinox Hide for scratches and chips across the armour.
Final Touches Add highlights to the red plume, enhance yellow details, and complete any final touches.
Base Decoration Decorate the base with sand, PVA glue, Agrax Earthshade, and weathering powder for a realistic ground effect.
Final Sealing Seal the model with a final layer of matte varnish to protect your work.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished the how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists tutorial, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step Guide
Want more? Download the detailed PDF guide!
If you’ve enjoyed the video and want to take your painting to the next level, don’t forget to download the accompanying PDF guide. This extra resource provides step-by-step instructions, close-up insights, and useful tips to help you perfect the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold technique on Rogal Dorn’s armour. Whether you’re watching the video or painting at your own pace, the guide is here to ensure you achieve the best results.
Download the PDF Guide and master the art of NMM gold!
Read Now
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This free video shows how to paint a Blood Angel in new Mark VI armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!)
Video: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials:
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Warboss Green, Moot Green, Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt IronP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour
Preparation
Clean Model: Ensure the model is cleaned of mold lines and primed. Drill the barrel for added realism if it hasn’t been done already.
Assembly: Fully assemble the model before starting to paint.
Base Coating
Red Armor:
First Layer: Start with Mephiston Red, diluting it to a 50/50 mix with water. Apply with a small drybrush or a large round soft brush, using a stippling motion to cover the armor.
Second Layer: Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to areas where light naturally falls, like shoulders and helmet, using a gentler stippling motion.
Final Layer: Add Wild Rider Red to the brightest areas, but be careful as it’s a pinky-orange hue. This layer is just for the very highlights.
Detailing
Metallics:
Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron. These metallics have good coverage, so there’s no need for a black undercoat.
Once dry, apply a coat of gloss varnish (optional).
Eyes:
Start with Warboss Green for the base of the eye lenses.
Add Moot Green over the Warboss Green, leaving some of the darker green visible around the edges.
Mix Moot Green with a bit of white for the next layer, focusing on the central part of the lenses.
Finish with a small dot of white in the center for the glowing effect.
Black Areas:
Paint any black parts like the bolter and the eyes.
Shading
Wash:
Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with a bit of Contrast Medium and apply liberally over the model for shadows and depth.
Use a clean brush to remove excess wash, especially in recesses.
Highlights and Finishing Touches
Red Armor:
Revisit with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red, focusing on areas where light hits to enhance the red color.
For chips and scratches, use Rhinox Hide with a fine brush, adding tiny dots and lines to simulate battle damage.
Metallics:
Re-highlight with Burnt Iron to restore the metallic sheen.
Base
Cover with PVA glue and sand. Once dry, apply a brown wash and let it dry.
Apply Forge World Weathering Powder
Dark Sand for a dusty, battle-worn look.
Varnishing
Finish with a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt for protection and a matte finish.
Final Touches
Detailing: Add any final details like highlighting edges or correcting overspills.
Decals (Optional): If you have Blood Angels decals, apply them after the shading stage.
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In this free video you will be shown how to paint a Night Lords Praetor in terminator armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Kantor Blue, Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue (optional), Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Firedragon Bright, Baneblade Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Balor Brown, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Windsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron Scale 75: Elven Gold (optional)P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step by Step : How to paint a Night Lords Praetor
Painting Steps:
Priming and Assembly: Assemble your model fully and prime it in black. In this case, the head is already glued in, making it slightly more challenging to paint.
Base Layering: Start with Night Lords Blue, diluted roughly 50:50 with water. Use a small dry brush or makeup brush to stipple the paint onto the model, ensuring to get into all the recesses.
Progressive Highlights: Apply subsequent layers of Kantor Blue, then Macragge Blue. With each layer, be less vigorous and focus more on areas where light naturally hits.
Detailing with a Small Brush: For hard-to-reach areas like the chest, use a small brush to apply highlights.
Final Highlighting: If desired, add a final stage of highlighting with Calgar Blue, although its translucency can be less satisfying. A mix of Macragge Blue and white can be more effective.
Blocking in Other Colours: Apply base colours for other parts of the model, such as Mephiston Red for red areas, Baneblade Brown for leather straps, and Balor Brown for skulls and bones.
Metallics and Golds: Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron and golden areas with Scale 75 Elven Gold.
Gloss Varnish and Oil Wash: Once all base colors are blocked in, apply Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish. Follow this with a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint thinned with mineral spirits. Apply it liberally over the model and then remove excess with a clean brush dipped in mineral spirits.
Matte Varnish: After the oil wash has dried, apply Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish to prepare the model for further acrylic painting.
Refining Highlights: Revisit areas with acrylic highlights, enhancing details and cleaning up where necessary.
Lightning Effect: Use a mix of Macragge Blue and white, then pure white, to paint lightning effects on armor panels.
Finishing Touches: Add final details to the model such as eye lenses, further skull highlighting, and final metallic edge highlights.
Base Detailing: For the base, use Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand over glued sand for a realistic texture.
Additional Tips on how to paint a Night Lords Praetor:
Keep the paint consistency thin to avoid losing details.
Use stippling and careful brushwork to create texture and depth.
Be patient with the oil wash and varnish steps, as they significantly enhance the final look.
Experiment with the lightning effect to create dynamic visual interest on the armor.
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This free video shows how to paint a Grimdark Black Templar to tabletop standard (make sure you are logged in to view!)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Paints: Games Workshop (Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Yriel Yellow, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull), Vallejo (Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, German Grey, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey), Scale 75 (Necro Gold), P3 (Morrow White)
Oil Colours: Winsor & Newton (Black, Burnt Sienna)
Odorless Mineral Spirit: Winsor & Newton Sansodor
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black
Brushes: Artis Opus Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Varnish: Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish (optional Mecha Gloss Varnish)
How to Paint a Grimdark Black Templar – Step-by-Step Guide:
1. Base Preparation: Prime the model black, leaving the head with blue tack for easier eye painting.
2. Armour Texture and Highlights:
Stipple German Grey (or a dark grey mix) over the armour, focusing on the edges and avoiding leather pouches and shoulder pads. This creates a textured base for highlighting.
Progress with lighter greys, like Basalt and Neutral Grey, using a similar stippling technique. This builds up the highlights and adds depth.
3. Shoulder Pads: Paint shoulder pads with Neutral Grey. This area will eventually be white but start with a grey base to create a grimy look.
4. Masking for Airbrushing: Use putty to mask off areas and airbrush a mix of Morrow White and a touch of Abaddon Black on the shoulder pads, creating a gradient effect.
5. Detailing Black Areas: Use black paint to touch up any overspray from airbrushing, particularly on the armour trim and the Black Templar cross.
6. Leather and Skull: Apply Mournfang Brown to leather areas and the skull. The oil wash will later help blend and shade these parts.
7. Gold Details: Paint gold areas with Necro Gold, watering down the metallics for a smooth finish.
8. Metallics: Fill in all metallic parts with Gunmetal Grey. Oil wash will later enhance these metallics, providing depth and shading.
9. Skull Highlight: Add a quick highlight of Morghast Bone to the skull to make it stand out against the dark base.
10. Verdigris Effect: Apply a mix of Sotek Green and White for a verdigris effect on gold areas, focusing on recesses and crevices.
11. Oil Wash: Mix Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint with mineral spirit and apply generously over the model. This step dramatically alters the model’s look, blending and toning down highlights and adding a weathered effect.
12. Touching up Highlights: Redo the highlights in smaller areas using Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, and Pale Blue Grey. This step refines the highlights post-oil wash.
13. Lenses: Paint the lenses starting with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Evil Sunz Scarlet, Fire Dragon Bright mixed with Yriel Yellow, and finally pure Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect.
14. Final Touches: Reapply metallic paints to certain areas for a contrast boost. Apply final highlights and adjust any last-minute details to your liking.
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Templar Armour Painting Guide
By Richard Gray
Unlock the secrets to painting stunning Templar armour with my latest PDF, the Templar Armour Painting Guide tutorial. This comprehensive 17 page guide is designed to help you achieve a striking and realistic non-metallic metal (NMM) effect on your miniatures’ armour. Perfect for hobbyists of all skill levels, the tutorial breaks down complex techniques into manageable steps, allowing you to create eye-catching finishes with ease.
What’s Covered in the Templar Armour Painting Guide:
Material List: Detailed list of all the paints, brushes, and tools needed to follow along with the tutorial, including alternatives to ensure accessibility.
Preparation and Priming: Step-by-step instructions on how to prepare your miniature for painting, including priming techniques to set the perfect foundation for your work.
Base Coating: Learn how to apply a solid base coat using the right colours to set the stage for the NMM effect.
Layering and Blending: Master the art of layering and blending to create smooth transitions and realistic highlights and shadows. This section covers techniques for achieving depth and dimension in your armour.
Highlighting Techniques: Detailed guidance on how to apply highlights to simulate light reflecting off metal surfaces, enhancing the realism of your miniature.
Weathering and Detailing: Tips and tricks for adding weathering effects and fine details that bring your Templar armour to life, including battle damage and dirt effects.
Final Touches: Instructions for the finishing touches that will make your miniature stand out, including edge highlights and spot highlights for maximum impact.
Additional Features:
High-Quality Images: The guide is packed with high-resolution images that illustrate each step of the process, providing clear visual references to help you achieve the best results.
Professional Tips: Gain insights from my years of experience in miniature painting, with professional tips and tricks to enhance your skills and improve your techniques.
Flexibility and Adaptation: Learn how to adapt the techniques to different models and projects, allowing you to apply the skills you learn to a wide range of miniatures
The PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here.
Templar-Armour
The following paints were used in the PDF guide:Games Workshop: Daemonette Hide, Rhinox Gide, Xereus Purple, Corvus Black, Abaddon BlackVallejo: Black (Any Black will do)P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs like the above Emperors Champion Armour PDF guide. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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More Emperors Champion Tutorials [...]
Learn how to paint an Ork Squigosaur (shark squig!) with my selection of tutorial videos, paints and top tips plus a detailed PDF on how I paint.
How to Paint an Ork Squigosaur Skin, Teeth and Eyes
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Warboss Green, Moot Green, Khorne Red, Mephiston Red, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Pink Horror Vallejo: Black, Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
How to Paint an Ork Squigosaur Tips!
Inside the Mouth: Utilise an airbrush to paint the inside of the mouth for a clean and efficient finish.Opt for dark grey shades, ensuring subtle highlights.Adding Spot Colours: Introduce spot colours on the shark squig to break up the desaturated black and grey appearance.Consider using Dark Sea Grey for added interest.Matte Varnish: Apply matte varnish to areas with overspray to reduce shine and enhance focus during highlighting.Choosing Greys: Experiment with greys like Neutral Grey, Black, and Basalt Grey for various effects.Create your own versions of greys using Black and White if needed.Texture Marks: Add scratches and texture marks to simulate battle damage and wear on the model.Follow the shape of organic surfaces for a more natural look.Squiggly Lines: Create squiggly lines and scratches quickly for a battle-worn effect.Vary the length and direction of the lines for a more authentic appearance.Control brush pressure for varying line thickness.Use a thinner brush for more intricate details.Glazing: Thin down Basalt Grey for glazing to correct areas that need additional highlights.Achieve a smooth blend with thin layers of glaze.Teeth Painting: Paint teeth bone-coloured for high contrast.Darken the tips of upper row teeth and lighten the tips of the lower row teeth for realism.Eye Detailing: Paint the eyeball with Dark Sea Grey or similar colours.Gradually transition from dark to bright greens for a realistic eye effect.Add a touch of white at the bottom of the eye for a shiny appearance.Layering and Highlights: Layer highlights on scars and skin texture to add de
How to Paint a Leather Belt
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Kislev Flesh, Screaming Skull, Mournfang Brown
Leather Belt Top Tips!
Base Coat: Begin with Rhinox Hide to establish the base colour for the leather belt. Ensure complete coverage, particularly around edges that meet the skin.
Texturing Technique: Utilise an old brush with approximately a third of it trimmed off to create a diminutive dry brush. Load it with Troll Slayer Orange (thick paint) and press it onto the model. This technique produces thick, heavily textured orange marks.
Scratchy Marks with Bugman’s Glow: Employ Bugman’s Glow to form scratchy, vertical marks on the leather belt. Flip the model upside down for better control when applying marks on the upper edges.
Building Texture: Gradually build up the texture with small, controlled marks. Avoid going too heavy, both in terms of the number of marks and the pressure applied with the brush.
Highlighting with Kislev Flesh: Apply Kislev Flesh for highlighting, focusing on worn edges and areas that need more weathering. This adds depth and contrast to the leather.
Refinement with Screaming Skull: The final highlight is done with Screaming Skull for subtle refinements. These highlights add a bit more contrast and make details stand out.
Glazing Technique: Conclude by glazing over the leather belt with thinned Mournfang Brown. This adds a strong colour while maintaining translucency. If you prefer a neater glaze, use a wet palette.
Remember, the key is to be purposefully chaotic with the marks to create unique and interesting textures. Don’t be afraid to experiment and vary your approach for a more dynamic result.
Chrome Exhaust
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Calgar BlueVallejo: Black, German Grey, Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey BlueP3: Morrow White
Chrome Top Tips!
Colour Palette: Utilise a wet palette with shades such as neutral grey, basalt grey, dark sea grey, pale grey blue, blue-black, and German grey for achieving the chrome effect.Incorporate Mournfang Brown to emulate ground reflections.Primary Highlight: Initiate the process with a substantial primary highlight along the central axis of the exhaust to establish the main chrome effect.Blend neutral grey and German grey to facilitate a seamless transition between shades.Random Reflections: Introduce random secondary bounce highlights to imitate reflections on the chrome surface.Reflect the surroundings, rider, and ground on the chrome, while considering the cylindrical shape.Golden Angle: Ensure that the primary highlight is discernible from the golden angle of the model, particularly on the face of the shark squig.Surface Texture: Diversify the texture on distinct surfaces; employ scribbly marks for the engine compartment and controlled lines for the exhaust pipe.Edge Highlights: Illuminate the edges of the exhaust to impart a heightened reflective quality, as light tends to accentuate edges.Adding Colour: Infuse Mournfang Brown for ground reflections, creating a nuanced separation from the model’s skin.Apply Kalgar Blue as a glaze for a touch of colour, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the overall moody aesthetic.Final Highlights: Gradually layer on highlights using lighter shades such as dark sea grey, pale grey blue, and eventually white for the highest points.Neatening Up: Dedicate time to refining the chrome effect for a polished finish, especially concentrating on edges and highlight points.Pay meticulous attention to detail, rectifying any imperfections such as bumps or sprue marks.Optional Enhancements: Contemplate incorporating ice yellow for a sunlit effect, if desired.Experiment with alternative colours for reflections, keeping in mind the overall mood and theme of the model.
How to Paint an Ork Squigosaur Skin, Teeth and Eyes – PDF
In this guide you will be shown how to paint an Ork Sharksquig (squigosaur) from Warhammer40,000, focusing on the skin, eyes and teeth.
How to Paint Sharksquig Skin, Teeth and Eyes – PDF
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Learn how to Paint Karazai, the Age of Sigmar Dragon, with my comprehensive painting guide. Perfect for hobbyists of all skill levels, this PDF tutorial walks you through achieving a stunning, realistic finish on your dragon model using a range of advanced techniques.
What’s Covered in the How to Paint Karazai Guide:
Airbrushing Techniques: Learn how to use an airbrush to apply smooth base colours and create stunning gradient effects, especially on large surfaces like wings and body.
Mottled Wing Patterns: Discover a unique method to create intricate, mottled patterns on the dragon’s wings using household materials for an eye-catching effect.
Drybrushing and Detailing: Master the art of drybrushing to highlight the dragon’s scales and armour, bringing out the rich textures and adding depth.
Gloss and Oil Washes: Explore the use of gloss varnish and oil washes to enhance details, providing a rich, deep finish that brings out the intricate sculpting of the model.
Hand Painting Highlights: Delve into hand-painting techniques for adding final highlights and shadows, focusing on creating realistic lighting effects and textures.
Final Touches and Shading: Learn how to apply final touches, including deep shading and edge highlights, to achieve a polished, professional look.
Base Creation: Get tips on building and painting a thematic base that complements your model, including weathering techniques and adding natural elements like grass tufts.
Additional Features:
High-Quality Images: The guide includes high-resolution images that clearly illustrate each step, providing visual references to help you achieve the best results.
Professional Insights: Benefit from my years of experience with professional tips and tricks that can enhance your painting skills and improve your results.
Flexible Techniques: The tutorial is designed to be flexible, allowing you to adapt the techniques to other models and projects, ensuring versatile application of the skills you learn.
Transform Karazai into a breathtaking centerpiece for your collection with this detailed How to Paint Karazai guide. Each step is crafted to help you achieve a high level of realism and detail, ensuring your dragon model stands out on the battlefield or in your display case.
The below PDF may take a few mins to load, as it’s a big one! You can also click this link.
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Daemonette Hide, Khorne Red, Wazdakka Red, Pink Horror, XV-88, Balor Brown,Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Rhinox Gide, Corvus BlackVallejo: Black (Any Black will do)P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)Windsor and Newton: Sansodor solvent, Burnt Umber oil colourGloss and Matt varnish
Who is Karazai?
Karazai, also known as “The Scarred,” is a prominent Draconith prince in the Age of Sigmar, a key figure among the Draconith, the dragon-like descendants of Dracothion the Great Drake. Alongside his brother Krondys, Karazai is notable for his deep involvement in the Draconith’s struggle for survival and their resurgence in the Mortal Realms.
Distinguished by his passion for scholastic lore, Karazai played an instrumental role in discovering and establishing a telepathic link with the Slann, ancient and powerful beings. This intellectual curiosity and foresight led to a pivotal alliance that proved crucial for the Draconith’s survival. When faced with the threat posed by Kragnos, a powerful Drogrukh who sought the destruction of the Draconith, it was Karazai’s initiative that sought the intervention of Lord Kroak, a revered Slann figure.
As a result of Karazai’s actions, the remaining Draconith eggs were given to the protection of Kroak’s temple-ships, ensuring the race’s continuity. This act of preservation was vital in the return of the Draconith during the Era of the Beast. It was then that Karazai, alongside his brother Krondys, led the Draconith to ally with the Stormcast Eternals, forming the formidable Stormdrake Guard under the Pact Draconis.
Karazai’s name resonates with a sense of resilience and adaptability, reflecting his capacity to navigate the Draconith through periods of great peril. His contributions have not only safeguarded his race but also positioned the Draconith as significant allies in the ongoing struggles of the Mortal Realms. Karazai’s legacy is one of wisdom, strategic foresight, and an unyielding commitment to the preservation and advancement of his people.
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A series for how to paint Be’lakor, the Dark Master. This includes his face and horns, his muscles and glowing pointed star, leather and chain NMM on his loincloth and the NMM of his gleaming armour! Scroll to view the videos and step-by-step guides on how to paint Be’lakor in order, or use the contents below to quickly jump to a video or technique.
Quick Jump to:
Video: How to Paint Be’Lakor Face and Horns Part OnePaints and MaterialsStep by Step GuideVideo: Be’Lakor Face and Horns Part TwoPaints and MaterialsStep by Step GuideVideo: How to Paint Be’lakor Chest and Chaos StarPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step GuideVideo: How to Paint Be’lakor AbdominalsPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint Be’lakor Abdominals Video Tutorial: How to Paint Be’lakor Armour NMMPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step: How to Paint Be’lakor Armour NMMVideo Tutorial: How to Paint Be’lakor LoinclothPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide
Video: How to Paint Be’Lakor Face and Horns Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Pink Horror (mixed with black and white), Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Yriel Yellow for eye dot) Vallejo: Black (and black is fine) P3: Morrow White (any white is fine)
Step by Step Guide
1. Priming:
Start with a black-primed model. (The first and greatest of the Daemon Princes)
2. Skin Base and Highlights:
Mix Vallejo Black with a small amount of Games Workshop’s Pink Horror for the base skin colour.
Gradually add more Pink Horror to the mix, creating several shades up to a majority of Pink Horror.
For lighter shades, mix Pink Horror with P3’s Morrow White (or any white). Start with a small amount of white, increasing up to about 50/50 or more for the brightest highlights.
Note: Avoid using Pink Horror alone, as it can become overly saturated.
3. Lighting and Shadowing:
Ensure the model is painted evenly, focusing on high-quality shadow and light contrast.
Paint the details on both the lit and shadow sides, maintaining visible details throughout.
4. Textured Skin Effect:
Create texture on the skin, simulating muscle grain. Use bodybuilder images for reference, and exaggerate for effect.
Apply this texture across the entire body.
5. Horns:
Initially paint the horns uniformly, and later apply glazing for shadowed areas.
Use a stippling method for texture. Start with Balor Brown for the base of the horns.
Highlight the horns progressively using Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Screaming Skull, leading up to white for the brightest points.
6. Eyes:
Paint the eyes starting with Mephiston Red, followed by Wild Rider Red.
Highlight with Balor Brown, and for the brightest points, use Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect.
Correct any mistakes by repainting the area with black, then reapplying the colours as needed.
7. Teeth:
Paint the teeth using the same colors as the horns, ensuring they appear distinct from the bony parts of the model.
8. Final Touches and Glazing:
Use glazing to soften the overall texture and colours on the horns. Mechanical Standard Grey from Games Workshop or Vallejo Neutral Grey can be used for this purpose.
Remember, the key to this paint job is to build up layers gradually and focus on creating contrast and texture.
Video: Be’Lakor Face and Horns Part Two
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Pink Horror (mixed with black and white), Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Yriel Yellow for eye dot) Vallejo: Black (and black is fine) P3: Morrow White (any white is fine)
Step by Step Guide
1. Texturising the Horns:
Begin with Balor Brown from Games Workshop to create a base layer of texture. Apply vertical strokes across the horns, but avoid being overly precise.
Focus on the area where the horns intersect, creating an overlap of lines. This not only makes the area more interesting but also serves as a natural highlight, accentuating the joint.
2. Highlighting Techniques:
Utilise Ushabti Bone for the initial highlights. For a gradual transition, you might consider starting with Morghast Bone and then refining with Ushabti Bone. However, given that subsequent glazing will soften these transitions, a stark contrast is not paramount.
3. Get Glazing:
Employ a glazing method using diluted Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, and Vallejo Black (or alternatively Abaddon Black from Games Workshop).
Begin with Mournfang Brown, applied lightly over the textures. Start from the horn tips and work downwards, ensuring the glaze remains semi-transparent and does not obscure the underlying textures.
Progress to Rhinox Hide, but don’t cover the Mournfang Brown entirely. Aim for a gradient effect.
Culminate with black, focusing predominantly on the horn tips to create a striking contrast.
4. Finalising the Highlights:
Apply the concluding highlights on the horn tips using the same colour palette (Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, and possibly Morghast Bone). Exercise caution with these transitions to maintain a natural appearance.
5. Painting the Horn Rings:
For the rings, opt for Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, and white, aiming for a non-metallic, desaturated effect.
Start with Neutral Grey to outline the highlights, ensuring a ridge is painted down the middle of the rings.
Add secondary highlights with Pale Grey Blue, defining the ring’s contours.
For maximum contrast, apply white highlights in a small blob or dot to simulate a reflective glare.
6. The Finishing Touches:
Use a larger brush for broader coverage but be careful to prevent obscuring the hard-earned details.
Reapply glazes as necessary, taking care not to excessively diminish the textures.
Strive for smooth transitions and ensure the highlights match the rest of the model.
Video: How to Paint Be’lakor Chest and Chaos Star
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Pink Horror, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel YellowVallejo: Black P3: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide
1. Preparing the Palette:
Begin with a wet palette containing a range of colours primarily based around Pink Horror, mixed with either black or white. Avoid using pure Pink Horror to prevent excessive saturation. Having a variety of mixes allows for smoother transitions between shades.
2. Establishing the Base:
Start by blocking in highlight points on the chest. It’s important to consider the model’s orientation – ensure the body is slightly turned left, aligning with the head’s direction, to correctly place highlights.
3. Focusing on the Golden Angle:
Paint with a focus on the model’s ‘golden angle’, the most aesthetically pleasing view, but ensure all angles are addressed, especially for competition entries like Golden Demon.
4. Using Bodybuilder References:
Employ references of bodybuilders to understand muscle structure and highlight placement. This will aid in achieving realistic light volumes and muscle definition.
5. Adding Muscle Textures:
Begin texturing the muscles, especially on the chest, with long, simple lines that will later be turned into muscle striations. Adjust the texture’s visibility based on the muscle’s exposure to light.
6. Preparing the Chaos Star:
If desired, apply a base layer of Mephiston Red to the Chaos star before detailing the chest, as this might affect the surrounding areas.
7. Detailing the Chest:
Continue refining the chest, enhancing the muscle textures and striations. Use lighter paint for visible lines and ensure the chest is brighter than other body parts to draw focus.
8. Painting the Chaos Star:
Start with a base of Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Evil Sunz Scarlet and Trollslayer Orange, each layer being more focused towards the centre of the star for an Object Source Lighting (OSL) effect.
Finish with a central dot of Yriel Yellow, mixed with a bit of white, for the brightest point.
9. Applying OSL Effect:
Add a glow effect around the Chaos star, using red shades to highlight edges of the pectoral muscles closest to the star. The glow should decrease in intensity further from the star.
10. Final Adjustments:
Revisit the chest and Chaos star for final tweaks. This includes refining edge highlights and adjusting the balance between the red glow of the star and the natural skin highlights.
Video: How to Paint Be’lakor Abdominals
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Pink Horror Vallejo: Black (Abaddon Black is fine) P3: Morrow White (Any white will do)
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint Be’lakor Abdominals
Initial Colour Mixing:
Start by blending your primary colours. Use Games Workshop’s Pink Horror, Vallejo’s Black (Abaddon Black will suffice), and P3’s Morrow White (any white is suitable).
Create a range of shades on your palette. Remember, never use pure Pink Horror; always mix it with black or white for varied tones.
Base Layers and Texturing:
Begin with a dark base. Combine a bit of Pink Horror with Vallejo Black to form your starting dark shade.
Apply this mix to the abdominals using a scratchy technique. This stage is about establishing texture and base tones rather than precision.
Gradually add more Pink Horror to the mix for lighter tones, ensuring even the lightest shade contains a touch of black.
Detailing Muscle Structure:
Focus on painting the muscle lines and shapes. Avoid using straight lines; follow the natural muscle flow and curves.
Vary the direction and weight of your brushstrokes to replicate muscle striations and textures.
Pay special attention to the upper abs and lower sections where muscle groups intersect, adding subtle lines to suggest skin over muscles.
Adding Depth with Highlights and Shadows:
Progressively lighten your colour mix by incorporating more white into Pink Horror for highlights.
Apply highlights consistent with the light source and muscle contours for a natural effect.
Use a darker glaze (Pink Horror and black mix) for enhancing shadows, adding depth and contrast.
Final Adjustments and Corrections:
Use a fine-tip brush for detailed work. Adjust brush pressure to vary line thickness while maintaining precision.
If some areas seem too stark or transitions between shades are abrupt, employ glazing techniques.
Mix a very light glaze (predominantly water) of your lightest colour and softly apply over highlighted areas to soften. Similarly, darken shadow areas with a darker glaze.
Reviewing Your Work:
Regularly review your model under a lamp or through a photograph to check for consistency and realism.
Make necessary adjustments, ensuring the overall appearance is visually appealing and coherent.
Keep in mind that whilst striving for realism, there’s leeway
Video Tutorial: How to Paint Be’lakor Armour NMM
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Vallejo: Black, German Grey, Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow, Japanese Uniform Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, XV-88, Dryad Bark P3: Morrow White
Step-by-Step: How to Paint Be’lakor Armour NMM
Observe and Plan
Examine how light reflects on the model’s armour. Use these reflections as a reference for placing highlights to achieve a non-metallic metal (NMM) effect.
Prepare Your Palette
Set up your palette with the following colours: Vallejo Black, German Grey, Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow, Japanese Uniform; Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, XV-88, Dryad Bark; P3 Morrow White.
Base Coating
Start with the steel plate, applying a base coat of the darker colours like German Grey and Basalt Grey.
Adding Texture
Use the base colours to add texture to the armour. This includes creating scratchy, chaotic marks that follow the armour’s undulations. This step aims to capture a scuffed NMM effect, reflecting the battle-damaged look of the model.
Non-Metallic Gold Trim
As you progress, begin working on the gold trim alongside the steel plate. This ensures that the lighting and colouration remain consistent across different armour elements.
Highlighting
Progressively add lighter shades, like Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey, to create a transition from dark to light. Focus on raised areas and edges for highlight placement.
Final Highlights
Utilise the lightest colours, such as Ice Yellow and Morrow White, for the final highlights. Apply these carefully to the most raised and prominent parts of the armour to create a strong metallic effect.
Glazing for Depth
Use thin glazes of Corvus Black and Mournfang Brown to deepen the shadows and enrich the colours. Apply these glazes sparingly, focusing on mid-tones and shadows, avoiding the brightest highlights to maintain their intensity.
Refining and Detailing
Go back over the armour, refining the highlights and ensuring a smooth transition between shades. Add small details like edge highlights and minor scratches for realism.
The Golden Trim
For the gold trim, start with a base of Dryad Bark, followed by layers of XV-88, Japanese Uniform, and Ice Yellow for highlights. Apply these colours while considering the light source and the sculpted details of the trim.
Final Touches
As a final step, revisit the brightest highlights and make any necessary adjustments. You can use a fine brush to add small, bright dots of white to simulate reflective points on the armour.
Attention to detail and gradual layering are key to achieving the desired NMM
Video Tutorial: How to Paint Be’lakor Loincloth
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Bugman’s Glow, Mournfang Brown, Firedragon Bright, Corvus Black, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Basalt Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Black P3: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide
Base Coat:
Prime the model in black.
Use Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide to paint the leather-based Be’lakor Loincloth, skulls, and optionally the chains for a rusted look.
Ensure to fill in the holes in the chains where the leather shows through.
Chain Detailing:
For the chains, use Vallejo’s Basil Grey. Apply it gently, almost like dry brushing, to pick up the surface details without clogging the chain links. Aim for a patchy look to represent rust and wear.
Leather Texture:
Focus on the leather flap under the belly button using Bugman’s Glow from Games Workshop.
Apply paint with scuffy, squiggly lines using the brush tip to create a textured look that combines both texture and highlights. The goal is to maintain texture visibility even on highlighted areas.
Gradually build up the opacity where needed, using a mix of approximately 50% water to 50% paint.
Weathering the Leather:
Add weathering using Vallejo’s Basalt Grey, focusing on the edges to depict wear.
Enhance the leather’s worn appearance with more faded grey towards the bottom.
Adding Colours to Leather on the Be’lakor Loincloth:
Introduce Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown for added richness. Apply it sparingly for a translucent effect.
Go back with Bugman’s Glow if needed for further blending or highlighting.
Skull Painting:
Paint skulls using a base of Balor Brown, focusing on creating texture with stippling and maintaining the balance of light and dark areas.
Progressively highlight with Morghast Bone and finally with P3’s Morrow White, focusing on teeth and prominent skull areas.
Use Corvus Black for glazing in shadow areas to blend and desaturate colors.
Metal Hook Detailing:
Paint the hooks using a combination of Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, and White from Vallejo.
Focus on creating a worn, dented look with lines and stippling. Ensure to paint the back edges of the hooks to separate them from the chains.
Apply final highlights with Morrow White to create a shiny appearance.
Rust Effects on Chains and Hooks:
Use Mournfang Brown to create rust effects, especially around areas where the skulls and hooks meet the chains.
Introduce Fire Dragon Bright for brighter, more saturated rust spots. Apply it with stippling for a subtle effect.
Highlight chains using Pale Grey Blue followed by small dots of White for metallic shine.
Final Touches:
Review the entire area, making adjustments as needed. Utilize all the colours on your palette to tweak and correct any areas.
Ensure that highlights and shadows are consistent with the light source direction and the overall look of the model.
Explore more of my latest Character tutorials!
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Lady Annika’s thirst for blood is legendary, even amongst the Soulblight vampires! I really enjoyed painting her and made a few tweaks to the model.
Here is a series of videos I created for how to paint Lady Annika, scroll down to explore them in order, or use the contents below to quickly jump to to a part of Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade!
Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Face and HairMaterials Needed for her Face and HairPreparationPainting the SkinPainting the HairFinishing TouchesVideo: How to Paint Lady Annikas Mask of HorrorMaterials NeededBase CoatCreating the Skin TonesRefining DetailsAdding Horror ElementsFinishing TouchesVideo: How to Paint Lady Annikas DressMaterials Needed for Lady Annikas Vampire Red DressStep by Step Guide to Lady Annikas Vampire Red DressVideo: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)Materials and Tools UsedStep by Step on How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)Painting the Freehand PatternAdjusting the PatternVideo: How to Paint Lady Annika BootsMaterials Needed to Paint Lady Annikas Boots:Step by Step Guide to the BootsVideo: How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand SkullMaterials NeededStep by Step – How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand SkullExplore more of my Vampires!
Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Face and Hair
This is the first video in a series of how to paint Lady Annika.This video looks at painting the face and hair to display level.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials Needed for her Face and Hair
Games Workshop Paints: Kislev Flesh, Dark Reaper, Ushabti Bone, Flayed One Flesh, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow
Vallejo Paints: Black, Basalt Grey, Dark Sea Grey
P3 Paint: Morrow White
Fine detail brushes
Wet palette
Water (for thinning paints)
Preparation
Prime and Prepare: Prime the whole model and build it, leaving the head separate for easier painting. This approach allows better access to the head, especially around areas obstructed by accessories like masks.
Painting the Skin
Base Coat with Kislev Flesh: Thin Kislev Flesh with water at a ratio of approximately 2:1 (water:paint). Apply the thinned paint to the head, aiming for a very translucent effect. This will take around 3-4 layers to achieve a good, but not opaque, coverage.
Shading: Mix Kislev Flesh with Dark Reaper to create various shades for skin shadows. Start with a small amount of Dark Reaper to slightly darken the Kislev Flesh and incrementally increase the amount of Dark Reaper for deeper shadows. Apply these mixes carefully to areas like under the eyes, around the nose, and under the chin to simulate natural shadows.
Adding Depth with Ushabti Bone and Flayed One Flesh: Introduce Ushabti Bone and Flayed One Flesh for highlights and to add depth to the skin. These should also be thinned and applied sparingly to areas that would naturally catch the light.
Refining Details: Use pure Dark Reaper to define the eyes and deeper shadows. Then, carefully increase the intensity of highlights and shadows by adding more layers, paying close attention to the light source (coming from the left in this case) to ensure a realistic appearance.
Painting the Hair
Base with Moot Green: Apply Moot Green as the base colour for the hair. If necessary, mix Moot Green with a little black to adjust the shade. Ensure to cover all strands, aiming for a uniform base layer.
Add Highlights and Shadows: Create a gradient effect by mixing Moot Green with white for highlights and pure black for deeper shadows. Apply these mixes strategically to mimic natural hair highlights and to give the impression of volume and movement.
Detailing with Fine Strands: Use a fine brush to add delicate strands of hair in lighter green shades towards the tips and darker shades near the roots to simulate depth and texture.
Roots Detailing: For an added touch of realism, use Basalt Grey and Dark Sea Grey near the roots to suggest regrowth or a transition of colour. This technique adds complexity and depth to the hair.
Finishing Touches
Glazing for Smoothness: Once satisfied with the skin and hair, use glazing techniques to smooth out transitions and blend the colours more seamlessly. This step involves thin layers of paint applied over dry areas to subtly adjust tones and shades.
Eyes and Teeth: Paint the eyes using Yriel Yellow for the whites and Vallejo Black for the pupils. For the teeth, use Ushabti Bone for a natural look, and carefully define each tooth for clarity.
Lips: Paint the lower lip with a mixture of red (e.g., Mephiston Red from Games Workshop) and add highlights with a mix of Shabti Bone and the red base colour to create a natural gradient.
Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Mask of Horror
This video shows how to paint the mask (and some of the difficulties I had!) for Lady Annika.
Materials Needed
Games Workshop Paints: Cadian Fleshtone, Rhinox Hide, Ushabti Bone, Mephiston Red, Dark Reaper (later changed to Corvus Black)
Vallejo Paint: Model Color Air White
Fine detail brushes
Wet palette
Water (for thinning paints)
Base Coat
Prime the Mask: Begin with a black primer to ensure the colours that follow stand out.
Apply Cadian Fleshtone: Cover the mask with Cadian Fleshtone. This will likely take three to four coats due to the poor coverage over the black primer. The aim is to achieve a base that resembles a realistic skin tone, though the mask itself is quite small, making this task more challenging.
Creating the Skin Tones
Mix Shades: Prepare a range of shades on your wet palette by mixing Cadian Fleshtone with varying amounts of white for highlights and Rhinox Hide for shadows. For deeper shadows, use a 50/50 mix of Cadian Fleshtone and Rhinox Hide, and for pure shadow areas, use Rhinox Hide alone.
Block in Highlights and Shadows: Considering the light source is from the top left, start blocking in highlights and shadows to define the mask’s features. This initial stage doesn’t require perfect blending, as the translucent nature of the watered-down paints (approximately two parts water to one part paint) allows for underlying layers to show through, contributing to a more natural look.
Refining Details
Enhance the Highlights: Use the lighter mixes (Cadian Fleshtone with white and Ushabti Bone with white) to highlight areas like the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, and forehead. These areas may need even more watered-down paint to avoid a chalky texture.
Detailing the Eyes and Mouth: With Corvus Black, add definition around the eyes and mouth. Initially, Dark Reaper was used, but Corvus Black provided a more suitable shade for creating a horror effect without being overly saturated.
Adding Horror Elements
Mascara Tears: Using Corvus Black, paint streaks running down from the eyes to simulate mascara tears, ensuring they thin out towards the bottom. This effect should look distressed and slightly uneven to enhance the horror aesthetic.
Red Lips: Paint the lips with Mephiston Red, carefully defining them to stand out against the paler skin tones. The open mouth adds to the mask’s gormless, horrific expression.
Finishing Touches
Softening and Blending: Go back over the mask to soften any harsh lines or transitions, especially around the streaks and shadowed areas, to ensure a coherent and lifelike (yet horrific) appearance.
Detailing and Corrections: If necessary, use the skin tone mixes to correct any mistakes or overly bold lines, particularly around the eyes and eyebrows, to maintain the desired look.
Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress
These videos show how to paint Lady Annikas dress, from the distinctive vivid reds to the freehand pattern on her skirts. I decided I didn’t like the freehand after all and changed it to something else (that video is a little further down!)
Materials Needed for Lady Annikas Vampire Red Dress
Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet
Vallejo Paint: Model Color Black (or any black paint you prefer)
Fine detail brushes
Wet palette
Water for thinning paints
Step by Step Guide to Lady Annikas Vampire Red Dress
Create a Gradient of Reds: On your wet palette, start with pure Mephiston Red. Then create four additional shades by progressively adding Vallejo Model Color Black to Mephiston Red. You should have a range from pure Mephiston Red to a dark, almost brownish red. The exact proportions aren’t crucial, but aim for a gradual transition from light to dark across the five mixes.
Apply a Dark Red Base: Select one of the darker red mixes (close to a 50/50 mix of Mephiston Red and black) and cover the entire dress. This base layer sets a foundation for building up the red tones and ensures that the shadows aren’t too stark or black.
Begin with Mid-tones: Starting with the second or third darkest shade, begin to layer up the colour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch the light. Keep your paints thinned (approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to ensure smooth transitions.
Add Highlights: Gradually work your way up through the shades, ending with pure Mephiston Red for the brightest highlights. Focus these on the highest points of the dress, where light would naturally hit the most. This includes the tops of folds and the hip area.
Smooth Out Transitions: Unlike non-metallic metal (NMM) techniques, which require stark contrasts, velvet demands soft, gradual transitions. Achieve this by applying multiple thin layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next. This method ensures a soft, velvety texture.
Bright Highlights: To add vibrancy, sparingly apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to the very highest points and sharpest creases of the dress. Be cautious with this bright, slightly orange shade, as overuse can detract from the deep red velvet effect. Focus on areas like creases on the arm and the upper parts of the dress.
Detailing: Use the darker red mixes to deepen shadows or adjust transitions where necessary. If you’ve already painted adjacent areas (such as hands or accessories), be extra cautious to avoid splattering these with red.
Modifying Your Brush: For fine detail work, consider customising your brush by trimming it to create a longer, thinner tip. This can provide more control for painting fine details and maintaining thin, even coats.
Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)
This is the first version of the skirt freehand I did for Lady Annika. Although this attempt was ultimately not to my liking, so I started afresh, the process and techniques described here may be useful for anyone looking to add intricate details to miniature models. This step-by-step guide incorporates a gothic vine pattern.
Materials and Tools Used
Paints: Vallejo German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black, and Dark Sea Grey; Games Workshop Corvus Black, Pelgrave Blue, and Blue Horror.
Brushes: Fine detail brushes suitable for precise freehand work.
Palette: A wet palette to keep your paints workable.
Water: For thinning your paints.
Step by Step on How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)
Basecoat the Dress: Begin with a black primer as a solid foundation for your paints. This tutorial focuses on the inner dress section or skirt of Lady Annika.
Block in Highlights and Shadows: Use a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey to block in the highlights on the dress, focusing on areas that would naturally catch the light. Add shadows with a blend of Neutral Grey and Black to create depth. This foundational work is crucial for the subsequent freehand pattern.
Painting the Freehand Pattern
Sketch the Pattern: Start by roughly sketching the pattern using a light grey, such as Dark Sea Grey. This initial sketch doesn’t have to be perfect; it serves as a guideline for your detailed work later.
Refine the Pattern: Once the basic pattern is laid out, begin refining the lines, making them thinner and more precise. This step requires patience and a steady hand. Use the original sketch as a guide but allow for adjustments as needed to achieve a more intricate design.
Add Details: Incorporate additional elements such as leaves or vines into the pattern to enhance its complexity and appeal. These details should complement the overall design and follow the flow of the fabric.
Adjusting the Pattern
Correcting Mistakes: Use the base colours (German Grey and Neutral Grey mixed with Black) to correct any errors or to sharpen the pattern. This “erasing” technique allows for adjustments and improvements to the pattern’s clarity and coherence.
Glazing for Depth: Apply glazes of Blue Horror and Corvus Black to integrate the pattern with the underlying highlights and shadows. These glazes help the pattern adhere to the fabric’s contours, making it appear more natural.
Evaluate and Adjust: Step back and assess your work. Make any final adjustments to the pattern, highlights, or shadows to ensure a cohesive appearance. The goal is for the pattern to complement the model’s overall aesthetic without overwhelming it.
Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Boots
How I did her shining leather boots….
Materials Needed to Paint Lady Annikas Boots:
Vallejo Paints: Black, Neutral Grey
P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white paint)
Wet palette
Fine detail brushes (sizes 0 and 00 recommended)
Kitchen roll or paper towel
Lamp for highlighting guidance
Step by Step Guide to the Boots
Prepare Your Palette: On your wet palette, mix a variety of greys using Black from Vallejo, Neutral Grey from Vallejo, and P3 Morrow White. The goal is to create a spectrum of grey shades. You can adjust the quantities to get lighter or darker shades as needed.
Base Coating: Start with a base coat of Neutral Grey on the boots. You can adjust the shade by mixing in either more black or white to darken or lighten the grey, respectively. This base coat serves as the foundation for building up highlights and shadows.
Highlight Mapping: Using a slightly lighter grey, begin mapping out where the highlights on the boots will be. Don’t worry about being too precise; the goal is to identify where light naturally hits the boots. Use a lamp to observe how light interacts with the surface and mimic this on the model. Remember, we aim for a shiny leather look, so some highlights will be exaggerated.
Adjusting Highlights: If you over-highlight, it’s fine. You’ll refine these highlights later in the process. The key is to create contrast and depth, making the boots appear shiny. Lady Annika’s slender design means space is limited, so choose your highlight areas wisely, focusing on making them visible from the primary viewing angle.
Glazing and Fine Tuning: Once you’re satisfied with the highlight placement, it’s time to blend and smooth out the transitions. This is where the stippling technique comes into play. Dilute your paint with water (around a 50:50 ratio, but adjust as necessary for a finer stipple) and gently apply to the edges of highlights to create a gradual transition.
Glaze over the boots with a thin layer of black to enrich the colour and add depth. This will also help to knock back any over-highlighted areas, ensuring they blend seamlessly into the overall finish.
Reflective Highlights: For added realism, incorporate some reflective highlights. These should be small and placed strategically to mimic how light reflects off a shiny surface. Use the brightest grey or even white for these highlights but apply them sparingly.
Final Adjustments: Review the model under different angles and lighting conditions. You might need to go back and adjust some highlights or shadows to ensure the boots look good from all perspectives. The goal is for the boots to have a high contrast, shiny appearance, indicative of leather.
Finishing Touches: As a final step, use glazing to unify all the elements. A thin glaze of black can help to tie together the highlights and shadows, making the transition between them smoother and more natural. This step also adds a satin finish to the boots, enhancing the leather effect.
Video: How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand Skull
In one of my previous videos I did a pattern on the dress for Lady Annika, but decided I wanted to change it to something a little bit creepier. Here is how I did the freehand skull design that replaced it! It includes tips on folds and how I did the weathering at the bottom of the cloth.
Materials Needed
Primer: Black (if you started with a black primer base).
Base Paints: Vallejo Black, German Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey.
Highlight Paints: 50/50 mix of Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey.
Weathering Paints: Vallejo Heavy Grey (appears green), Games Workshop Rhinox Hide, Cadian Fleshtone, Monfang Brown.
Fine Detail Brushes
Wet Palette
Reference Image: A realistic skull from a science book (or the Internet!) for accuracy.
Step by Step – How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand Skull
Design Sketching: Sketch the skull design lightly on the skirt. Consider the folds and curves of the fabric; your design must follow these contours to look natural. The skull should be positioned considering the fabric’s folds, especially around tricky areas like deep creases or hard lines.
Base Painting: Using Vallejo Black as your darkest shade, begin blocking in the skull and its surroundings. Gradually build up the mid-tones using German Grey and Neutral Grey. For highlights, use a 50/50 mix of Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey. Keep the contrast lower than other elements (like the boots) to ensure the skirt’s design doesn’t overpower the miniature’s other focal points.
Adding Details: Focus on defining the skull’s features, adjusting for the fabric’s folds. Use your mixed greys to paint in the finer details, such as the teeth and eye sockets, considering the underlying fabric’s shape and the skull’s anatomy. For the headdress, spikes, and cobweb details, apply the same grey tones, ensuring they blend seamlessly into the skull.
Final Highlights and Shadows: Revisit the highlights and shadows, emphasizing the skull’s curvature and the fabric’s texture. Use the lighter greys to enhance the design’s three-dimensionality, paying special attention to areas that catch the light or recede into shadow.
Weathering: Start with Rhinox Hide, diluted significantly with water. Apply it to the lower third of the skirt, building up layers until you achieve a subtle, brown tint. Follow with Monfang Brown for a richer tone, focusing more intensely at the very bottom. This creates a gradient effect, simulating dirt accumulation.
Final Touches: Use a mix of the weathering colours to add texture and depth to the weathered area, mimicking the appearance of mud or dust caught in the fabric’s texture. This step enhances the realism of your miniature, grounding it in its environment.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint an Ork Sharksquig (squigosaur) from Warhammer40’000, focusing on the skin, eyes and teeth.
What’s Covered in the Guide:
Base Coating and Priming: Learn how to prepare your Shark Squig model with proper priming techniques and base coats to set the foundation for a vibrant finish.
Layering and Blending: Discover the art of layering and blending colours to create smooth transitions and realistic textures on the model’s skin and features.
Highlighting Techniques: Master the techniques for applying highlights to emphasize the details and contours of the Shark Squig, bringing out its character and depth.
Drybrushing for Texture: Explore drybrushing methods to enhance the textures on the model, making scales, skin, and other features pop.
Advanced Detailing: Delve into detailed painting techniques for intricate areas like the eyes, teeth, and other fine details that give the Shark Squig its unique personality.
Shading and Glazing: Use shading and glazing techniques to add depth and realism, creating dynamic contrasts that bring the model to life.
Final Touches and Finishing: Learn how to apply the final touches, including edge highlights and finishing details, to achieve a polished and professional look.
Sometimes the PDF will take a few mins to load below – You can also click this link.
sharksquig1
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Warboss Green, Moot Green, Khorne Red, Mephiston Red,Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Pink HorrorVallejo: Black, Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey BlueP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
More Squig Tutorials!
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Discover how to paint an Ork Beastboss from Warhammer 40,000 with my comprehensive 26-page painting guide. Perfect for hobbyists of all skill levels, this PDF tutorial covers a variety of advanced techniques to help you achieve a stunning, realistic finish on your model.
What’s Covered in the How to Paint an Ork Beastboss Guide:
Materials and Paints Needed: Detailed list of all the paints and tools required for the project, including specific brands and colours used.
Model Preparation and Priming: Tips on assembling and priming your model to create the perfect base for painting, including zenithal highlighting for effective shading.
Base Coating with Contrast Paints: Learn how to use Contrast paints to quickly and effectively cover large areas, setting the stage for more detailed work.
NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) Techniques: Discover the secrets of painting realistic bronze and steel effects without using metallic paints, using layering and highlighting methods.
Texture and Weathering Effects: Explore techniques for adding texture and battle damage to your model, giving it a gritty, battle-worn appearance.
Detailing and Finishing Touches: Step-by-step guidance on painting intricate details such as skin, fur, horns, and weapons to make your Ork Beastboss stand out.
Final Highlights and Shading: Learn how to apply the finishing touches that bring your model to life, including edge highlights and deep shading for a polished, professional look.
Additional Features:
High-Quality Images: The guide includes high-resolution images to illustrate each step, providing clear visual references to help you achieve the best results.
Professional Tips: Benefit from my expert tips and tricks to enhance your painting skills and improve your techniques.
Adaptable Methods: The techniques demonstrated in this tutorial are flexible and can be adapted to other models and projects, allowing you to apply your newfound skills across your miniature collection.
Transform your Ork Beastboss into a stunning display piece with this detailed painting guide. Each step is designed to help you achieve high-quality results, making your model a standout addition to your collection.
Download the full How to Paint an Ork Beastboss guide below and start painting your Ork Beastboss today!
The below PDF may take a few mins to load, as it’s a big one! You can also click this link.
BeastbossinDesign-1
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These videos shows how to paint an Ork Beastboss to a high level tabletop standard.In them, we are aiming to achieve a rugged, battle-worn look, emphasising strong contrasts and weathered metallics.
Quick Jump to:
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part OneMaterials NeededStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossVideo – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part TwoPaints UsedStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossPDF GuideFree Video Tutorials
There is also a detailed 26 page PDF guide for this model, which can be found here.
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Ork Beastboss Miniature
Brushes: Various sizes for different techniques
Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast)
Vallejo Paints: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow
P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white will do)
Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss
Priming and Zenithal Highlighting:
Prime the model black and apply a zenithal highlight using Vallejo Pale Grey Blue. This creates natural shadows and highlights, guiding future paint layers.
Skin Tones:
Paint the Ork’s flesh using a 50/50 mix of Ork Flesh Contrast and Contrast Medium. This enables some of the grey from the zenithal highlighting to show through, providing a guide for later highlights.
Fur and Details:
Apply Skeleton Horde Contrast directly for fur, ensuring highlights are visible.
Use Volupus Pink Contrast for lizard-like skin textures and Blood Angel Red Contrast for the top knot and tassel.
Armour and Metallics:
Paint areas intended to be bronzy or gold with Gryph-Hound Orange Contrast. This creates a dark orange base over the light grey zenithal highlights.
For black areas or parts you want darker, mix Black Templar Contrast with Contrast Medium and apply.
Bronze Metallics:
Start painting the skeleton head and other bronzy parts. Use scratchy, rough strokes to build up layers, starting from a darker base and gradually adding lighter colours for highlights.
Highlight Placement:
Follow the guide provided by the zenithal priming for light placement, enhancing it with further highlights where needed.
Steel Armor:
For a steel-like finish on certain armour parts, use a similar scratchy technique, starting with Vallejo Dark Sea Grey and building up to lighter greys and whites.
Weathering and Rust:
Add weathering using Mournfang Brown and Trollslayer Orange, focusing on recessed areas, rivets, and parts where rust naturally accumulates.
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part Two
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast) Vallejo: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White (Any white will do)
Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss
Picking up from where we left off in the first guide…
1. Sword (Big Chopper) with Rusty Texture
Base Layer: Start with Rhinox Hide, using a scribbly and scratchy technique similar to the armour’s style. This creates a dark base for the flat of the blade. If Rhinox Hide is unavailable, mix Mournfang Brown with Black for a close approximation.
Stippling Technique: Apply Mournfang Brown with stippling, creating a rusty texture. Remember, the paint can be a bit thicker here to add texture.
Additional Rust Effect: Use Trollslayer Orange for more rust detail, focusing on areas like the top hook of the blade. This paint is slightly translucent, so you might need to layer it for a stronger effect.
2. Highlighting the Blade
Scratches and Cutting Edge: Use lighter colours like Pale Grey Blue and White to highlight and define scratches and the cutting edge of the blade. This gives a contrasting effect to the rusty areas.
Bounce Highlights: Consider adding bounce highlights to reflect the battlefield’s environment, like green reflections for a green terrain.
3. Horns and Fur
Base Colours: Use the same colours as the blade for consistency. Start with a mix of Rhinox Hide and Morghast Bone.
Highlighting: Gradually lighten the base with pure Morghast Bone and then Screaming Skull, focusing more on the base of the horns and the top of the fur for a natural gradient.
4. The Face
Initial Layers: Begin with a base of Warboss Green. You might need several layers due to its translucency. To reduce the shine from contrast paints, apply an ultra-matte varnish partway through the painting process.
Detailing: Add more detail than is sculpted, especially around the temple and eyes, to create a more menacing look. Use Warboss Green mixed with Screaming Skull for highlights, making the face a focal point.
5. Teeth and Bone Decorations
Base Colour: For teeth and bone-like decorations, start with a base of Balor Brown.
Texture Technique: Use a stippling and scratchy technique for texture, similar to the horns and fur.
6. Red Hair
Base and Highlights: Start with a base of Evil Sunz Scarlet. For highlighting, mix in a bit of white for a slightly pinkish hue, but be careful not to overdo it.
Detailing: Use vertical strokes to highlight, focusing on the strands without overly brightening the recesses.
7. Loin Cloth (Lizard Skin)
Base Layer: Use Xereus Purple over a base that was previously primed and given a coat of Volupus Pink.
Highlighting: Highlight selectively, focusing on larger scales and facets. Use lighter shades of purple mixed with white for the highlights, but remember to keep the overall area dark for contrast.
8. Verdigris Effect on Bronze Areas
Base Colour: Apply Sotek Green, watered down for a flowing effect into recesses.
Layering: Add white to Sotek Green for progressive highlights, focusing on the darker areas and avoiding the brightest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
9. Back to the Face
Detailed Texturing: Add more detailed textures to the face using the lighter green mixture, emphasizing areas where light hits directly.
Balancing Highlights: Alternate between highlighting and shading to balance the contrast and maintain the focus on the face.
10. Finishing the Eyes
Initial Layers: Start with a base of Pearl Grey Blue, then define the iris with Sotek Green.
Highlighting: Use lighter shades of blue for the lower parts of the eyes. For the final highlights, map out the placement with the first highlight blue, focusing on the top left to represent the light source.
11. Final Touches
Teeth and Tongue: Paint teeth in Balor Brown and adjust the tongue if needed.
Bone Decorations: Add final touches to bone decorations, ensuring they stand out against the hair.
Red Hair: Refine the highlights and ensure they blend well with the base colour.
And there you have it, your Ork Beastboss is now ready for battle, boasting a range of textures and colours, all contributing to its fierce and battle-worn appearance. For more detailed instruction, check out the PDF Guide!
PDF Guide
I have also created a detailed 26 page PDF guide on painting this model, that can be found here for full website members:
How to Paint an Ork Beastboss – PDF
Free Video Tutorials
Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
Free Video Tutorials
Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.
To explore all of these, visit this page!
Free Tutorials
I don’t usually paint true metals as I find them irritating and the metallic particles get everywhere like a glitter bomb. I get a lot of requests for how to paint them though, so I thought I’d record this How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint for you, below!
Video – How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint
Paints Used
The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Snakebite Leather, Black Templar Games Workshop: Averland Sunset, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Air Chrome, Air Gunmetal Grey (large pots), Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (substitute Mechanicum Codex Grey and Abaddon Black)
Step-by-Step : How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint
Initial Preparation
Begin by assembling your Iron Warrior model, ensuring all parts are properly attached except for the head, which should be left unattached for easier painting. Your primary paints will be Vallejo Metal Colour Airbrush Colours, specifically Gunmetal Grey and Chrome, and Games Workshop’s Contrast paints like Snakebite Leather and Black Templar.
Applying the Base Coat
Start with Vallejo’s Air Gunmetal Grey. It’s a true metallic colour, enriched with botanic flakes to achieve a genuine metallic effect. This is in contrast to non-metallic metals which use standard colours to simulate metal. Apply Gunmetal Grey evenly, using a brush for a more organic, less sterile look. This approach maintains the natural shadows in recesses and adds interesting brush strokes.
Highlighting with Chrome
Enhance the model’s metallic sheen by highlighting with Vallejo Air Chrome. Focus on areas where light naturally falls, such as elevated surfaces and curves. The chrome will accentuate these spots, creating a dynamic contrast with the darker Gunmetal Grey. It’s crucial to observe the light interaction with the model to identify the best areas for chrome highlights.
Adding Shadows with Contrast Paint
For deepening shadows and adding depth, use Black Templar Contrast paint. This is particularly effective over metallic paints due to its translucent nature, adding depth without obscuring the metallic shine. Apply carefully to avoid overwhelming the metallic effect.
Detailing with Snakebite Leather
Snakebite Leather Contrast paint is excellent for adding warmth and a tint of colour to the metallics. It’s particularly useful for areas you want to appear weathered or less shiny. Apply sparingly and blend well to maintain a natural look.
Hazard Stripes on Shoulder Pads
Painting hazard stripes requires a steady hand and patience. Start by painting the shoulder pads with Neutral Grey and German Grey, blending these colours to create a mid-tone. Once the base is ready, use Averland Sunset for the yellow stripes. Ensure this paint is thin enough for smooth application but dense enough for good coverage. Carefully paint straight lines, keeping the spacing consistent. Avoid using masking techniques as they can complicate the process and don’t always yield cleaner results.
Finishing Touches
Once the main painting is complete, focus on adding small details like weathering effects, especially on the hazard stripes. Use black paint to simulate chips and scratches, creating a battle-worn look. Also, remember to paint the non-metallic parts, like the ribbing between armour plates, using appropriate grey tones.
Final Assembly and Clean-Up
After painting, reattach the head and any other separate parts. Be sure to clean your brushes thoroughly, especially when switching between metallic and non-metallic paints, to avoid unwanted cross-contamination
More Contrast Paint projects and tutorials:
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Richard was sent the new Warhammer 40,000 Leviathan box set from Games Workshop, and of course had to pick out his favourite model to paint up for a tutorial video for you guys. This is up on the website, ad free for freebie members and above, but also on Youtube – follow the link below or click in the embed to watch:
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic) P3: Morrow White
About the Leviathan box set – (Review by Rebecca)
The “launch box” contains two armies (Space Marines and Tyranids), a limited edition book, and lots of other treats. However, if you’re a newbie to this hobby, brace yourself for a slightly steeper learning curve. Unlike some dedicated starter sets, Leviathan skips the dice, measuring tools, and handy “get started” guide.
The box also contains a set of transfers covering a host of Space Marine Chapters.In the video Richard says that there are no Dark Angel ones, but there are, (sorry).
In addition to this, while the rules for every Warhammer 40k unit will be available for free download from Warhammer Community, be aware that the box itself does not include physical cards. Instead, you’ll find basic profiles tucked away in the back of the instruction manual.
Richard enjoyed painting a Terminator for the video above, and was impressed by the level of detail. They’ve managed to retain the classic charm of their predecessors while seamlessly blending into the ranks of the latest Space Marine models.
In this new edition, the Terminators boast some nifty tricks up their power-armoured sleeves. Imagine being able to plant a teleport marker anywhere on the battlefield right from the get-go, courtesy of these bad boys. And the best part? You can use Rapid Ingress without spending a single resource to appear right next to that marker. Finally, they give a resounding “no thanks” to any negative hit modifiers. That means they’re practically unstoppable in combat.
For beginners and those who stick themselves together more than their miniatures, the models in the Leviathan box set are push fit, requiring no glue. Despite their easy assembly, they stand strong against intricate multi-part kits, however and still boast a great level of detail and good customisability.
I, personally, love the books that comes with the sets, especially when they are as full of background information as the rule book that comes with the Leviathan set.This exclusive book encompasses a whopping 200 pages of background information, hobby details, and lore. Not only does it provide insights into every Combat Patrol available, but it also showcases stunning images of painted models.
In short, the Leviathan box set is a great set if you are looking to get a lot of very cool models plus some great lore!
Rebecca Gray
This website showcases lots of Warhammer tutorial videos by Richard Gray! If you don’t have an account on the website, please sign up here! In total, the website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore the free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand, especially for Adeptus Titanicus. The whole interview can be found here.
Richard: As a massive fan of Adeptus Titanicus, I knew I had to have the Warlord-Sinister Psi-Titan as soon as I saw it. After I built the model, I realised I would have to figure out how to add the Legio Sinister icon to the shoulder pads. With no transfers available, this would make an ideal project to show my freehand process.
The first thing to do when you want to freehand is a little research and planning. It’s very tempting to jump straight in and wing it. What usually happens if you do is that you run out of space, get details wrong and wish you had a transfer! With this in mind I looked for artwork of the Legio Sinister icon and managed to find a nice, large image. This tends to be when the true horror hits that you have a very detailed, large image that you need to fit in to a teeny tiny area.
Before you get started on your freehand piece itself, paint the background armour panel completely. It’s much easier to paint it now rather than trying to get nice highlights and transitions around your carefully painted freehand.
The colours I’m going to use for the freehand are as follows: For the non-metallic metal (NMM) sections, I’ll use Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Dorn Yellow, and Screaming Skull. For the lion itself I will be using Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer, Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red.
To get started, I first map out the shape and position of the freehand in black. Start in the centre and work your way outwards to allow you to make small corrections as you go. If you try painting the outline straight off there’s a good chance you’ll get the position wrong, and then it’s very hard to change! For the spikes just make small marks for each position to make sure they are spaced correctly. The reason for using black as a base colour is that it’s much easier to build up the highlight positions and use the black as shading, to keep your tonal contrast high. It also means you can use black to correct any mistakes you make.
Once the outline is complete it’s time to move on to the next layer – NMM trim. Start with Rhinox hide and make very large highlight blocks. Remember that the highlights will get smaller and smaller with each layer. I didn’t make a straight copy of the reference artwork, but rather made the lighting come from the top left. This made it look a bit more dramatic and allowed me to build stronger highlights and shadows.
Hard edges and curves reflect the light more strongly, so focus on those areas for the brighter highlights. After the Rhinox Hide, continue adding highlight layers with the remaining NMM colours in the order listed previously. Save the XV-88 for the finest edge highlights.
After all of the trim is painted it’s time to start on the lion. This is where things get tricky! You should have a black, round hole in the middle of the design. Roughly block in the shape of the lion face using Mechanicus Standard Grey. This allows you to get the positioning correct without going over any of the work you’ve just done.
Next begin refining the details of the face with Slaanesh Grey – be careful not to corrupt your Psi-Titan! Imagine the face as a 3D object and try to think where the highlights would naturally fall. I kept the light direction coming from the top left to match the trim.
Now it’s time to start painting the lion’s mane. This is the scary part as it goes over all of the NMM that you’ve carefully painted. I strongly recommend that you take your time and try to be selective with your positioning. Avoid covering the bright point in the top left, as this feature helps make the NMM look metallic and shiny.
I used watered down Mephiston Red to paint in the eye sockets, this makes the lion look extra angry. You should pick out the eyes in Grey Seer, plus any other details can be finished up in this step.
By this stage everything should be starting to come together. One thing I strongly recommend is to take photos of your piece, and look at those rather than the painted model. The freehand is so small that it’s easy to miss mistakes, but on an enlarged photograph, your mistakes will look massive (and terrible)! This might be a difficult step, but it will be much easier to correct your work.
Once the lion’s complete, it’s time for the symbol to be painted on the forehead. Again, start with black to block in the shape, then use the same colours for the NMM. As this area is so small, you don’t need to bother with Rhinox Hide.
Finally, take one last photograph to check everything on the model and then give the whole panel a coat of matte varnish. This will remove any variances in the finish and will make the freehand look like it’s a part of the armour panel. I hope you liked my tips on freehand and if you’d like to learn more tips on freehand techniques from me, please scroll down to explore some videos, like the guide I created alongside this one, or explore the site!
I did a tutorial video alongside this guide, click below to view it!
Freehand Tutorials
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I have to teach you how to paint NMM gold, especially after Games Workshop kindly sent me a review copy of the Age of Sigmar Dominion box, which is full of these golden boys! The first model I decided to paint was this chonky Annihilator!
NMM means (Non Metallic Metal) – so it looks like gold paint, but is painted with “normal” paints. Read on and see!
How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. There are also speed controls, click the little cog and choose a faster speed, if you’d like to speed it up a bit!
How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part Two
Paints and Tools
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Yriel Yellow, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zamesi Desert, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black
P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine)
Step By Step Guide: How to Paint NMM Gold
Step 1: Base Layer – Zamesi Desert:
Start by applying the base layer using Zamesi Desert. Be careful with the application, as it can build up like a dusty layer if you’re sloppy. Use thin layers and consider dry brushing or stippling for a textured effect.
Step 2: Highlights with Scrappy Marks:
Apply the highlights by holding the model under a light source and quickly blocking in where the highlights hit. Use a chunky stippling style for blocking colours on the armour. Quick transitions work well for a better look. Don’t worry about brush marks; the focus is on selling the non-metallic effect.
Step 3: Light Volumes and Reflections:
Focus on getting the light volumes right for the non-metallic metal effect. Reflect other lights around you, similar to how a mirror reflects light. Be aware that some parts may not catch light as desired, but you can tweak it as you go along.
Step 4: Adding White Highlights:
Add white highlights using P3 Morrow White or any white paint of your preference. These highlights will enhance the non-metallic effect. Be mindful of the thickness of the paint, and if needed, glaze over for a refined and neater look.
Step 5: Balancing Highlights:
Maintain consistency in the highlights by holding the model under a light source and blocking in where the highlights hit. Balance is crucial for selling the non-metallic metal effect.
Step 6: Layering and Glazing:
Consider using glazing techniques with colours like Balor Brown or Japanese Uniform to add depth and colour variation. Thin your paints for later stages to achieve refined and smaller marks. Glazing helps neaten and soften the overall look.
Step 7: Additional Details and Contrast:
Add additional details using Rhinox Hide for larger areas to push contrast. Use watered-down Rhinox Hide for subtlety, and consider adding white highlights for reflections.
Step 8: Stippling and Scratching:
Stipple and scratch with a watered-down mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for larger areas. This technique adds texture and a brushed look to the non-metallic gold.
Step 9: Final Touches and Glazing:
Continue blending and refining the paint with scratchy marks. Towards the end, consider glazing to further enhance and refine the non-metallic gold effect. Adjust as needed for a balanced finish.
Learn NMM Like a Pro!
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Ready to try some Grimdark Ultramarines? This how to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine tutorial’s got you covered. We’ll be using an airbrush and some cool oil weathering tricks to turn a plain model into a gritty Ultramarine warrior. From slapping on the base colour to adding those fine details, we’re keeping it real and straightforward.
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue, Blue Horror, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black, (Metal Colour Magnesium, Gold, Chrome) Scale 75: Dwarven Gold Winsor & Newton Oil Colour: Burnt Sienna, Black (Burnt Umber!) Forge World: Dark Sand
How to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine Steps and Tips
Base Coat:Apply Macragge Blue from Games Workshop using an airbrush.Use a small arch surface dry brush for a stippling technique to add colour and texture.Focus on covering all armour panels, avoiding non-blue elements like guns and chainsaws.
Highlighting:Mix airbrush thinner and water.Highlight specific areas (shoulders, head, chest, backpack) using the airbrush.Use Scale 75 Dwarven Gold for golden trim, fixing any mistakes with black paint.
Additional Detailing:Add scratches and dents using a fine brush.Apply subtle highlights using blue and blue horror, keeping it restrained.Avoid excessive highlighting for a balanced appearance.
Purity Seals and Small Details:Optionally detail purity seals and other small features.Experiment with paint mixes for variety.
Oil, Transfers and Weathering:Use micro set to soften transfers and apply them to the model.Coat with gloss varnish and let it dry.Apply oil paints for weathering by dabbing or gently rubbing.Highlight specific areas (knee, shoulder pads, head, hip plate, backpack) with the oil wash.
Final Touches:Paint the eyes using white and carefully add additional highlights.Address any mistakes or mishaps.Reapply highlights using the same colours to make certain areas pop.Use weathering powder for a grounded look on the base.
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This mould lines tutorial shows you how to build and convert Mephiston of the Blood Angels and end up with a result that has no mould lines or gaps.
Tools You Will Need
The following tools were used in the video: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Revell Contacta Plus Glue Greenstuff 2 Part Yellow and Blue epoxy Scalpel Clippers (I used Tamiya 300074123 – Diagonal Cutter)
Step By Step Mould Lines Tutorial
Prepare your ToolsSee above list!
Foot Modification for Custom Base:If planning a custom base, clip off Mephiston’s foot from the base to allow for easier base building later!
Tackle Mould Lines:Identify and remove mould lines using Tamiya Extra Thin, ensuring a smooth and clean surface. Take your time!
Scalpel Precision:Utilise the full length of the scalpel for better control, especially in challenging areas like fabric creases.
Handle Tricky Details:Address challenges with tubes and concave shapes, taking your time to avoid cutting into the model.Inspect and remove mould lines diligently, paying attention to hidden areas like armpits and hair.
Sprue Connection Removal:Cut off tags where the model connects to the sprue and use Tamiya Extra Thin to blend the cut areas seamlessly.
Model Assembly:Use Revel glue for assembly, overloading edges for a strong bond.Scrape away excess glue with a scalpel, mimicking the process of removing mould lines.
Dry Fitting and Final Touches:Perform a dry fit to ensure proper part alignment.Address gaps or imperfections with green stuff for larger spaces.
Adding Movement and Detail:Add movement to elements like Mephiston’s hair using Vallejo model putty for dynamic strands.
Final Inspection:Clean up any excess putty or glue.Inspect the model for visible mould lines or gaps, ensuring a flawless finish.
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This video looks at How to Paint Snikrot the Ork! The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily.
Tools and Paints:
Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner
Step By Step: How to Paint Snikrot the Ork
Priming and Highlighting
Begin with a primed model and apply a highlight using an airbrush and white ink from Vallejo. Thin the white ink with airbrush thinner for a smooth finish.
Ensure the focal points, such as the face and chest, receive extra brightness during airbrushing. The contrast paint naturally enhances shadows and highlights.
Applying Contrast Paints
Use contrast paints for a high tabletop standard. Apply contrast paint to the model, focusing on loading up the brush with a generous amount to let it run into crevices and create shadow effects.
Choose contrast colours based on personal preference, as they all work similarly. I’ve used contrast black (Templar Black) for metal areas.
Leather and Metal Details
Paint leather areas with desert yellow, avoiding excessive thinning as it complements the contrast paints.
For metal areas, use contrast black or any black color of choice. Leave teeth and tongue unpainted, applying a coat of skeleton horde or a chosen pink colour for the tongue.
Matte Varnish
Apply matte varnish to reduce the shiny finish of contrast paints. Vallejo’s matte varnish is recommended for its balanced matte effect.
Use a Wet Palette to Organise Your Paints
Arrange neutral gray, neutral gray mixed with white, black, and dead white for easy access during painting.
Detailing and Highlights
Use grunge brown for detailing and add highlights with desert yellow. Experiment with different water-to-paint ratios for varied effects.
Metallic Effects
Achieve a metallic effect by using opaque white sparingly. Focus on creating highlights on edges and surfaces, making the metal look scratched and darkened.
Creating Texture
Experiment with brushes to create texture on the model. Stipple with an older, worn brush for a more textured effect on specific areas.
Lenses and Final Touches
Paint lenses using turquoise as the base colour and add highlights with Aquamarine or a mix of turquoise and white. Follow a common technique for gem-like effects.
Looking for the Rebecca version?
My wife did an April Fools version of this video, with her voice-over. It can be found below!:
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This free video shows how to paint a Grimdark Black Templar to tabletop standard (make sure you are logged in to view!)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Paints: Games Workshop (Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Yriel Yellow, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull), Vallejo (Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, German Grey, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey), Scale 75 (Necro Gold), P3 (Morrow White)
Oil Colours: Winsor & Newton (Black, Burnt Sienna)
Odorless Mineral Spirit: Winsor & Newton Sansodor
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black
Brushes: Artis Opus Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Varnish: Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish (optional Mecha Gloss Varnish)
How to Paint a Grimdark Black Templar – Step-by-Step Guide:
1. Base Preparation: Prime the model black, leaving the head with blue tack for easier eye painting.
2. Armour Texture and Highlights:
Stipple German Grey (or a dark grey mix) over the armour, focusing on the edges and avoiding leather pouches and shoulder pads. This creates a textured base for highlighting.
Progress with lighter greys, like Basalt and Neutral Grey, using a similar stippling technique. This builds up the highlights and adds depth.
3. Shoulder Pads: Paint shoulder pads with Neutral Grey. This area will eventually be white but start with a grey base to create a grimy look.
4. Masking for Airbrushing: Use putty to mask off areas and airbrush a mix of Morrow White and a touch of Abaddon Black on the shoulder pads, creating a gradient effect.
5. Detailing Black Areas: Use black paint to touch up any overspray from airbrushing, particularly on the armour trim and the Black Templar cross.
6. Leather and Skull: Apply Mournfang Brown to leather areas and the skull. The oil wash will later help blend and shade these parts.
7. Gold Details: Paint gold areas with Necro Gold, watering down the metallics for a smooth finish.
8. Metallics: Fill in all metallic parts with Gunmetal Grey. Oil wash will later enhance these metallics, providing depth and shading.
9. Skull Highlight: Add a quick highlight of Morghast Bone to the skull to make it stand out against the dark base.
10. Verdigris Effect: Apply a mix of Sotek Green and White for a verdigris effect on gold areas, focusing on recesses and crevices.
11. Oil Wash: Mix Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint with mineral spirit and apply generously over the model. This step dramatically alters the model’s look, blending and toning down highlights and adding a weathered effect.
12. Touching up Highlights: Redo the highlights in smaller areas using Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, and Pale Blue Grey. This step refines the highlights post-oil wash.
13. Lenses: Paint the lenses starting with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Evil Sunz Scarlet, Fire Dragon Bright mixed with Yriel Yellow, and finally pure Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect.
14. Final Touches: Reapply metallic paints to certain areas for a contrast boost. Apply final highlights and adjust any last-minute details to your liking.
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This video shows the complete process of how to paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton from the Cursed City boxed game by Games Workshop. The tutorial covers techniques for achieving a worn, non-metallic metal look and provides insights into brush handling, highlighting, and detailing.
The following paints were used in the video:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Cadian Fleshtone, Baharroth Blue, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Basalt Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black, Heavy Grey P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green
Steps And Tips to Paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton
Preparation and Priming:Use Scale 75 surface primer for a matte finish on the Ulfenwatch Skeleton from the Cursed City box game.Remove the tab from the feet for basing without risking damage to your paintwork.
Armour Painting Technique:Start with Vallejo Basalt Gray for non-metallic metal-style armour painting.Use a worn-out brush for a rough look, applying lighter shades on prominent areas and gradually decreasing paint for darker sections.Start on the brightest points for effective highlighting.
Highlighting and Detailing:Apply successive highlights using Basalt Gray, Neutral Gray, Pale Grey Blue, and White to create neater and more defined details on the armourHighlight worn spots, holes, and dents on the armour to add character, ensuring that the marks become neater with each successive highlight.
Shield Painting:Use Mournfang Brown for a bronze/copper look on the shield, focusing on one primary shine point.Highlight points where the light hits the shield, including spikes and creases, using a controlled blobbing technique for added definition.
Face and Eye Painting:Paint the face with Balor Brown, focusing on small, intricate details.Use Yriel Yellow to add a bright edge around the eye sockets for a realistic effect, but keep an eye (ha ha) to ensure you are keeping your lighting consistent throughout the model.Do the process for painting other parts like arms and legs, but beware of overly bright highlights that may distract from focal points.
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These videos will show you how to paint a Death Guard Space Marine, specifically from the Space Marine Heroes collection. These guides will focus on creating a textured, decayed look characteristic of the Death Guard, using various stippling techniques.
Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part OneMaterials NeededStepsTipsVideo – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part TwoAdditional Painting StepsAdditional TipsMore Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!Free Video Tutorials
Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part One
Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Khorne Red, Volupus Pink, Fire Dragon Bright, (alternatively Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for copper effect)
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, (alternatively Old Rose and Salmon Rose)
Brushes: A variety of sizes, including stippling brushes (Artist Opus dry brush or makeup brushes can be used)
Primer: Black primer (Ultimate Primer recommended)
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps
Priming and Base Texture:
Prime the model in black. Start stippling texture onto the armour using Balor Brown. Ensure the paint is diluted (about 50% water) to achieve translucency and avoid excessive build-up.
Layering the Texture:
Continue building texture with Morghast Bone, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Aim for a top-left light perspective.
Dilute your paints as you stipple, gradually building up layers for a controlled, textured effect.
Detailing with Contrast Paint:
Apply Volupus Pink to recesses and bubbly areas on the armour for quick coverage. This helps in defining those decayed spots distinct to Death Guard armour.
Base Colour for Trims and Metals:
Paint all trims and metal areas with watered-down Rhinox Hide. This acts as a base for later metallic effects.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Effect:
For a non-metallic metal look, mix Old Rose with Rhinox Hide and Salmon Rose with Ice Yellow. Layer these mixes to create a copper-like effect, adding Mournfang Brown for warmth.
Highlighting Armour and Details:
Use Screaming Skull to push highlights on the armour. Concentrate on areas like the chest, head, and shoulder pads to draw focus. Stippling Screaming Skull provides a more opaque highlight.
For the pus boils, start with Balor Brown and build up layers with Fist Red for veins. Add Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for highlights, creating a shiny, reflective surface.
Painting Fungus and Red Details:
Base the fungus-like growths with Khorne Red. Create a gradient effect by mixing Khorne Red with Fire Dragon Bright, then highlight with Ice Yellow for a vibrant contrast against the armour.
Tips
Patience is Key: Death Guard models are detailed, so take your time to add depth and texture.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure the light source remains consistent across the model for a cohesive look.
Layering: Gradual layering helps create a more realistic texture, particularly for the decayed look of the Death Guard.
Brush Care: Clean brushes thoroughly between colours, especially when working with stippling techniques.
Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part Two
Continuing from Part 1, let’s delve into completing the Death Guard Space Marine with a focus on the gun, additional weathering effects, and other details. We’ll be using a variety of techniques to add depth and character to the model.
Additional Painting Steps
Gun and Metallics:
Start with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for a coppery effect. Apply these colours to the gun, focusing on light placement and creating non-metallic metal effects.
Use Mournfang Brown and Ice Yellow for richer copper tones. Ensure smooth transitions and consistent light reflection.
Weathering and Verdigris Effect:
For added realism, apply verdigris using Sotek Green. Mix with water (approx. 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply it to recessed areas and around details for an oxidized look.
Add layers of Sotek Green mixed with white for a more pronounced effect. Apply sparingly to avoid overpowering the metallic sheen.
Highlighting and Details:
Highlight the gun and metallic parts with Ice Yellow and a touch of white for glare effects. Be cautious with paint consistency to avoid unwanted textures.
Address the back of the model similarly, but you can opt for brighter highlights as this part is often in shadow during gameplay.
Painting the Backpack and Tentacles:
For the backpack’s tentacle-like extensions, use a mix of Pink Horror, Emperor’s Children, and Fulgrim Pink. Stipple on these colours to create a mottled, organic texture.
Use Averland Sunset or a similar yellow for raised pustules, adding depth and contrast to the tentacles.
Green Goo Effect:
Paint any dripping goo with Moot Green, applying in layers to create a luminous, toxic effect. Highlight edges with Ice Yellow for added vibrancy.
Finishing Touches:
Utilize Corvus Black for deepening shadows and refining details. Water down the paint and apply it as a glaze to enhance contrast and soften textures.
For the final highlights, focus on the model’s focal points, such as the head, chest, and weapon, ensuring they draw the viewer’s attention.
Additional Tips
Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a more natural and controlled effect.
Light Source: Keep the light source consistent across the model for a cohesive appearance.
Weathering Techniques: Experiment with weathering to add character. Verdigris and rust effects can significantly enhance the decayed look of the Death Guard.
Patience: Take your time with details, especially on focal points, to make them stand out.
Brush Care: Maintain your brushes, especially when working with techniques that can be hard on them, like stippling and dry brushing.
More Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!
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A quick and simple video tutorial in how to paint this friendly little Gloomspite Gitz Grot with Contrast paints and apply varnish to bring the colours together and finish the piece. The key is to work fast with Contrast paints, allowing their properties to create natural shadows and highlights, and then refining with traditional paints for a more polished finish.
Video Tutorial – Gloomspite Gitz Grot in Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials List for Painting Gloomspite Gitz with Contrast Paint
Brushes:
Various brushes suitable for applying contrast paints and doing detail work – I use Artist Opus range for details, with a standard general brush for applying the paint more roughly.
Primer:
Vallejo Surface Primer Black: For the initial priming of the models.
Games Workshop Wraithbone spray can: Used for zenithal highlights.
Contrast Paints (Games Workshop)
Black Templar: For dark areas like robes.
Plaguebearer Flesh: For skin.
Iyanden Yellow: For ropes and feet.
Nazdreg Yellow: Alternative option for ropes and feet.
Flesh Tearers Red: For red elements on the models.
Additional Paints:
Games Workshop Daemonette Hide: For highlighting black areas.
Games Workshop Dorn Yellow: For enhancing yellow areas.
Games Workshop Blue Horror: For brighter highlights.
Games Workshop Ceramite White: For final, brightest highlights.
Games Workshop Skavenblight Dinge: For non-metallic metal effects.
Varnish:
AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish: For finishing and protecting the painted models.
Other Materials:
Water for thinning paints and cleaning brushes.
A palette for mixing paints.
Kitchen roll or a similar material for wiping and adjusting brush moisture.
Airbrush (Optional):
Recommended for a smoother zenithal highlight application compared to using a rattle can.
Step-by-Step Guide
Priming and Base Highlights:
Prime the models with Vallejo Surface Primer Black.
Use Games Workshop’s Wraithbone spray for zenithal highlights, creating a directional light effect to enhance contrast paint application.
Applying Contrast Paints:
Start with the skin using Games Workshop’s Plaguebearer Flesh. Be relatively quick and don’t worry excessively about neatness.
For darker areas like robes, use Black Templar. Apply it straight out of the pot, allowing it to flow into recesses.
Paint the ropes and feet with a brown contrast paint like Iyanden Yellow or Nazdreg Yellow.
Use Flesh Tearers Red for red elements, considering multiple coats for a smoother finish.
Additional Details:
For weapons, you can opt for a simple black base and metallic highlights, or try a non-metallic metal (NMM) approach using neutral grays.
To enhance yellow areas that are translucent and show speckles, use Dorn Yellow for edge highlights and additional coats.
Refining and Enhancing:
Use Daemonette Hide to pick out highlights, particularly on black areas. Vertical strokes can emphasize cloth folds.
Add brighter highlights with Blue Horror, focusing on raised areas and edges for a sharper look.
Finalize the highlights with Ceramite White, adding small touches to the most prominent areas.
Correcting Mistakes and Blending:
If you make mistakes or need to blend areas, use appropriate contrast paints or a mix with water for glazing and tinting.
Varnishing:
Once painting is complete, apply an ultra-matte varnish (like AK Interactive Ultra Matte) to unify the finish and protect the paint. This can be done by hand or with an airbrush. Be cautious of pooling and bubbles.
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This video looks at how to paint the Ork special character, Snikrot, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily.
Quick Jump to:
Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!Steps and TipsPriming and HighlightingApplying Contrast PaintPainting DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueSkin HighlightsLeather and StrapsFinal Touches on Metallic AreasLenses and EyesVideo Tutorial – (Richard Version)More Free Video Tutorials
Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner
Steps and Tips
Priming and Highlighting
Prime the model.Apply white ink using an airbrush, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner, focusing on the face and chest for natural light effects.
Applying Contrast Paint
Start with Mantis Warriors Green for the skin. Use a large brush for efficient coverage, allowing the paint to settle in the recesses.For trousers, use Aggaros Dunes, a dark brown contrast paint.Apply another brown contrast paint for the leather areas.Paint all metal areas with Black Legion contrast paint, without worrying about neatness as black will cover any overlapping paint.For bone areas, use Skeleton Horde.
Painting Details
Paint teeth and tongue with Skeleton Horde, and use a pink colour for the tongue.Apply a coat of matte varnish (Mecha Matt Varnish by Vallejo) to reduce the sheen from the contrast paints.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Start with Vallejo Game Colour Neutral Grey for the metallic areas.Create a palette with Neutral Grey, mixed with white and black, and use Dead White for the brightest highlights.
Skin Highlights
Mix Bile Green with white for brighter skin highlights. Focus on the areas where natural light wouldhit, such as the tops of muscles and face.
Leather and Straps
For additional texture and highlights on leather, use Grunge Brown.Apply Desert Yellow for final highlights on leather, following the sculpted creases and stress points.
Final Touches on Metallic Areas
Enhance the metal parts with additional Grunge Brown, focusing on recesses and flat surfaces for a grimy look.Use Dead Flesh for final highlights on metallic areas, achieving a high contrast non-metallic metal effect.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint the lenses starting with Turquoise, followed by Aquamarine for the first highlight.Add a small dot of Dead White at the bottom for a reflective effect.Throughout the process, remember to let each layer dry before applying the next.
Video Tutorial – (Richard Version)
Yep – it was an April Fools! 😀 This was my wife and she wanted to have some fun doing a voice over.She has her own channel here, if you’d like to check out more of her Warhammer New Release unboxings and voice overs, or you can explore them below.
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Welcome to this detailed guide on how to paint the Legio Sinister freehand symbol for a Warlord Titan. I will be using various Games Workshop and Vallejo paints to achieve a polished and striking look. This guide is suitable for intermediate to advanced hobbyists due to the precision required in freehand painting.
Video – Legio Sinister FreehandPaints UsedSteps and Tips for the Legio Sinister FreehandStep By Step Image GuideMore Freehand Tutorials on the WebsiteFree Video Tutorials
Video – Legio Sinister Freehand
All videos are recorded in HD 720p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints Used
Vallejo Model Colour Black
Games Workshop Paints: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer, Mephiston Red, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Dorn Yellow, Screaming Skull
Steps and Tips for the Legio Sinister Freehand
Mapping Out the Position: Begin by using Vallejo Model Colour Black to roughly outline where the symbol will be placed. Start with a small circle at the centre, gradually expanding outwards. Include a line at the top of the curve to centralise the image.
Refining the Shape: Progressively enlarge the symbol, focusing on refining its shape. Paint an approximate circle with spikes extending outward. Ensure even distribution of the black paint to provide a solid base for subsequent layers.
Applying Initial Colours: Commence with Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, applying it as a foundation for the non-metallic parts of the symbol. Layer on XV-88 next, followed by Dorn Yellow, with a focus on the top-left for the lighting direction. Remember, moderate use of Dorn Yellow prevents oversaturation.
Adding Highlights: Employ Screaming Skull to introduce highlights. Be judicious in this step, concentrating on the top left to evoke a lustrous appearance. The XV-88 should remain the predominant colour for the metallic aspects.
Painting the Lion’s Face: Utilise a range of greys (Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer) to depict the lion’s face. Start with basic shapes, refining them progressively. Pay special attention to the eyes, nose, and mouth, building depth with shadows and highlights.
Detailing with Red: Apply a glaze of Mephiston Red for a subtle red glow around the eyes and other facial areas. This step enhances the lion’s fierce visage.
Adding Fur Details: Use greys to render fur details, commencing with darker shades and progressing to lighter highlights. Focus on creating a three-dimensional effect with varied brushstrokes.
Final Details: Paint the Titanicus symbol on the lion’s forehead using black as a base. Layer greys for the non-metallic metal effect, ensuring a thinner central line for a precise appearance. Use Dorn Yellow and Screaming Skull for the highest highlights, ensuring they are well-placed to create a realistic metallic sheen.
Refining and Adjusting: As you near completion, revisit areas that require refinement. This may include sharpening edges, deepening shadows, or enhancing highlights. The key is to achieve a balance between contrast and harmony in the symbol’s details.
Final Touches: Examine the overall piece for any last-minute adjustments. This might involve intensifying certain colours, smoothing transitions, or adding small details to bring the symbol to life. Ensure the lighting direction is consistent and the symbol stands out against the background.
Step By Step Image Guide
The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand and I created an article with step by step imagery for the tutorial above – to view it, visit:
Tips on Freehand – Step-By-Step Image Guide : Adeptus Titanicus
More Freehand Tutorials on the Website
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This free video shows how to paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan for the Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) from the Adeptus Titanicus game.
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black
Steps to Follow on How to Paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan
Preparing the Model
Build the Model: Assemble your Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, leaving off the armour plates for separate painting. This allows easier access to the skeleton for painting in metallic colours.
Painting the Skeleton
Base Coat in Metallic: Start with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron applied with a large soft brush or a dry brush for a smooth metallic base on the skeleton.
Detailing with Copper: Use Games Workshop Hashut Copper for the hips and other details, applying multiple coats as necessary for even coverage. Thin with water if the paint is too thick.
Verdigris Effect: Mix oil paints on cardboard to create a light green verdigris colour. Stipple this onto the copper parts with an old brush, focusing on crevices and rivets. Thin with white spirit for a more natural effect.
Weathering the Metal
Oil Wash: Create an oil wash with black and burnt sienna oil paints thinned with mineral spirits. Apply over the entire metal skeleton, excluding verdigris areas, to add depth and an oily finish.
Highlighting: Highlight edges and raised details with Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome for a sharp contrast.
Painting the Armour Panels
Base Coat in Blue: Airbrush the panels with Games Workshop Night Lords Blue, followed by highlights with Calgar Blue focusing on upper sections and curves.
Detailing Stripes and Flames: For striped areas, use Tamiya masking tape and Vallejo Dark Sea Grey. For flames, start with Balor Brown as a base, building up to lighter tones and finally white for the hottest parts.
Applying Decals: Use Forge World or Games Workshop decals for additional detailing, sealing them with Microset or Microsol. I’ve put a link to another free video on how to do that, below!
Final Weathering: Apply oil washes for weathering effects, focusing on creating streaks and grime accumulation that fits with the battlefield-worn look.
How to Apply Forge World Decals and Weather Them
A beginners guide on how to apply Forge World decals and weather them so they look a natural part of the painting on your model. Painting and applying decals to your models adds significant details and realism, making it stand out during tabletop gaming. It’s also a lot easier than freehand! I still use decals a lot in my models, despite also enjoying freehand work.
Watch and Read Now
Finishing Touches
Painting Trim and Details: Use Scale 75 Necro Gold for gold trim, applying carefully around edges and details. For a brighter highlight, apply Vallejo Metal Colour Gold.
Matte Varnish: Seal the entire model with an ultra-matte varnish to tie together the different finishes and protect the paintwork.
Optional Ribbon Streamers: Create custom ribbon streamers from plastic card, painted and detailed to match the Titan’s colour scheme, adding dynamism and a personalised touch to your model.
Additional Tips
Always thin your paints to ensure smooth application and avoid obscuring fine details.
When working with oil paints for weathering, allow ample drying time between layers to prevent smudging.
Use a hairdryer to speed up drying times cautiously, avoiding too much heat on plastic parts.
Experiment with lighting and colour modulation on the armour panels for a dynamic appearance.
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This video shows the whole process of how to paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist for Warhammer 40,000, plus a step by step text guide.
Tool and Paints
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Balor Brown, XV-88
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Black, (Metal Colour Magnesium)
P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine)
Scale 75: Dwarven Gold, Neco Gold
Winsor & Newton: Oil Colour: Burnt Sienna, Black, Sansodoor solvent
Step by Step Guide : How to Paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist
Step 1: Base Coating with XV-88
Start with a model primed in black and assembled (except for head and backpack).
Use XV88 paint directly from the pot and scrunch it onto a piece of paper towel.
Stipple the paint onto the model with a large brush to cover all armour panels.
Stab the marine harshly with the stippling brush to create texture.
Don’t worry about getting paint on other parts; focus on covering armour panels thoroughly.
Step 2: Adding Baylor Brown Highlights
Switch to a smaller brush for precision.
Use Balor Brown paint and continue stippling, focusing on areas with prominent curves (shoulder pads, backpack, head).
Highlight the model by emphasizing the curves for a top-down lighting effect.
Step 3: Airbrushing with Yriel Yellow and Ice Yellow
Thin Yriel Yellow paint with airbrush thinner in a wet palette.
Apply a thin coat with an airbrush, blending and smoothing the texture.
Use Ice Yellow with the airbrush to highlight specific metal areas (gun, joints, recesses).
Step 4: Red Trim with Mephiston Red
Paint the trim on the marine in red using Mephiston Red paint.
Avoid painting directly from the pot; thin the paint with water to achieve the right consistency.
Focus on essential highlights rather than painting every edge.
Step 5: Final Highlights and Stippling
Use worn-out brushes for final highlights, adding details to areas with texture or leftover stippling.
Stipple lightly to blend and enhance highlights.
Step 6: Weathering with Sotek Green and Verdigris
Apply Sotek Green for verdigris weathering on the chest piece.
Water down the paint and run it into recesses for a weathered effect.
Step 7: Apply Decals and Micro Set
Glue the head on to avoid wobbly head issues.
Apply decals using Micro Set for adhesion.
Skip Micro Sol; Micro Set alone is sufficient for shaping decals.
Step 8: Oil Wash with Agrax Earthshade
Thin Agrax Earthshade with some Sansodor to create a wash.
Apply the wash generously over the model, allowing it to settle in recesses.
Wipe off excess if needed.
Step 9: Final Touches and Stippling
Stipple over highlights again to clean up and enhance contrast.
Use Metal Colour Magnesium paint on lower areas (shin, foot) for a dirty, textured effect.
Focus on making the knee pad stand out and eliminating unwanted highlights.
Step 10: Eyes and Final Details
Paint eyes with a mix of Sotek Green and Metal Colour Magnesium for a glowing effect.
Add final details as needed, keeping the overall grimy and weathered appearance.
Free Video Tutorials
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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This video looks at how to paint the head of the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon. The video looks at the textured bone, how to add colour and interest and then how to add verdigris and NMM to the bronze trim.
Video – How to Paint the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon Head
Paints and Materials Used on the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon
Paints:
Games Workshop Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Skavenblight Dinge, (Skeleton Horde Contrast optional)
Kimera Colours: Fallen Grass (Sybarite Green as an alternative)
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun (Balor Brown alternative)
Brushes and Tools:
Artis Opus Small Dry Brush: Used for stippling the base coat and first highlights.
Size 2 Brush (Old): Ideal for glazing with Scavenblight Dinge and applying the verdigris effect on metallic elements. An older brush is recommended as the techniques used can be rough on the bristles.
Size Z00 Brush: Used for finer detail work, such as adding texture to the verdigris effect. However, a larger brush may be more efficient for larger areas.
Size 1 Brush: Recommended for applying non-metallic metal highlights. An older brush is suitable as long as it maintains a good point.
Wet Palette: Handy for keeping your paint mixes workable and blending colours.
Kitchen Roll: For dabbing off excess paint and ensuring the right consistency on the brush.
Water Pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes.
Step-by-Step Guide to Painting the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon
Step 1: Base Coat
Create a mix of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 in approximately a 50/50 ratio. The exact mix isn’t crucial, but aim for a reddish-brown shade.
Thin this mixture with water (about two parts water to one part paint).
Using an Artist Opus small dry brush, apply this mixture to the dragon head using a stippling method. Ensure the brush is damp, not wet, to avoid a dusty look.
Cover the entire surface, allowing the small dots of paint to create texture. This might require two to three layers for opaque coverage.
Step 2: First Highlight
Switch to Morghast Bone for the next layer of highlight.
Again, thin the paint (similar ratio as before) and dab off excess paint on kitchen roll before applying.
Stipple Morghast Bone more selectively, focusing on creating a transition from darker to lighter areas.
Pay special attention to the metal crests and teeth-like protrusions, ensuring they are light enough for later glazing.
Step 3: Final Highlight
Move on to Screaming Skull for the highest highlights.
Apply this colour even more sparingly and delicately, focusing on the most raised areas and textures.
Remember, this is not dry brushing. Dab the brush straight onto the model to create the desired texture.
Step 4: Painting the Teeth
Start with the base colours used for the bone and apply them with a normal brush for a smoother finish.
For the top teeth, paint from the bottom upwards. This creates a shiny effect, with the brightest part of the tooth at the top.
Use Screaming Skull for the very top section of the teeth to enhance the shiny look.
Step 5: Softening Textures
Use Scavenblight Dinge to soften the texture on the skull.
Thin the paint significantly (about three to four parts water to one part paint).
Apply with a large brush, focusing on midtones to shadows to enhance depth and contrast.
Step 6: Glazing and Highlighting
Return to the mixture of XV-88 and Mournfang Brown, now very watered down.
Glaze around the teeth and other areas to add warmth and contrast, separating different elements like teeth from the skull.
Step 7: Additional Details and Glazing
Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull to pick out details, focusing on areas like the eye sockets and brow for added focus.
For the bone spikes, start glazing with Rhinox Hide, thinned down.
Progress from Rhinox Hide to a black colour (like Vallejo Model Color Black), applying from halfway down the bone spike towards the tip, creating a dark gradient.
Step 8: Metallic Elements
Base the metal parts with Mournfang Brown.
Apply a wash of Fallen Grass, heavily watered down (five parts water to one part paint), focusing on recesses.
Follow up with black lining for added definition, using watered-down black paint.
Step 9: Non-Metallic Metal Highlights
Create a palette with Mournfang Brown, a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun, Dark Sun, Dark Sun mixed with white, and pure white.
Start with the darker mixes and progressively highlight with lighter mixes, focusing on edges and areas where wear would naturally occur.
Add finer highlights and scratches with the lightest mixtures.
Step 10: Finishing Touches
Revisit areas with Scavenblight Dinge for further softening and definition.
Optionally, add warmth with a glaze of Mournfang Brown and XV-88, or Skeleton Horde Contrast for subtlety.
Explore more Old World and Bone Tutorials!
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This video looks at how to paint a Deathwing Terminator from the new Leviathan boxed set, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.
Video – How to Paint a Deathwing Terminator
The following paints were used
Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow
Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic)
P3: Morrow White
Step by Step Guide
Preparation and Priming:
Assemble the Deathwing Terminator, modifying as desired (e.g., swapping weapons).
Prime the model in black.
Base Coat and Airbrush Highlighting:
Apply a base coat of XV-88.
Highlight with Morghast Bone using an airbrush, focusing on natural light areas.
Applying Contrast Paint:
Mix Darkoath Flesh with Contrast Medium and cover the Deathwing Terminator, emphasising recesses over large, smooth areas.
Highlighting and Texturing:
Hand apply highlights and textures using Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull, targeting brighter airbrushed areas.
Detailing with Black Paint:
Paint areas destined for other colours (metal, red, green) with Black Templar Contrast or thinned black paint.
Metallic Parts:
Apply Vallejo Gunmetal Grey to metal parts.
Use Agrax Earthshade for a matte effect.
Add highlights with Chrome.
Red Areas (Eyes, Lenses, Purity Seals):
Base with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black.
Progressively highlight with Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red.
Green Areas (Chest Eagle):
Base in Vallejo Game Colour Dark Green.
Add highlights by progressively mixing in white.
Bone Armour Texturing and Detailing:
Further texture and scratch effects using Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Screaming Skull.
Mix Morghast Bone with a bit of Mournfang Brown for shadows.
Chest Eagle and Purity Seal Text:
Use fine brushwork for text effects on purity seals with black paint.
Final Highlights and Details:
Apply final highlights with Screaming Skull or white, focusing on areas for maximum contrast.
Blend and soften with Neutral Grey glazing.
Basing:
Base the Deathwing Terminator as preferred, employing sand texturing, painting rocks in German Grey and Neutral Grey, and adding grass tufts.
Finishing Touches:
Add chips and scratches across the armour with Rhinox Hide and Screaming Skull.
Enhance details and edge highlights to complete your Deathwing Terminator!
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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This video shows how to paint some tanks for the Solar Auxilia faction of Legions Imperialis. Plus, I’ve included a little step-by-step guide underneath on the key points of the video!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Agrax Earthshade, Skeleton Horde Contrast, Sotek Green, Moot Green, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Rhinox HideVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Copper P3: Morrow White Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (series 1 oil paint), Black, Sansodoor mineral spirit For melting decals onto models : Micro Set
Step-by-Step Guide:
Prepare the Base Coat:Use an airbrush for efficiency in batch painting for your large Legions Imperialis faction.Mix Vallejo Neutral Gray with airbrush thinner (30 PSI, 50/50 ratio with thinner).Apply the base coat evenly to the entire tank. Consider using gray primer for a quicker and better result.Layering for Opaque Finish:Apply two or three layers of paint, especially for lighter colours like Pale Blue Gray Blue and Morrow White.Account for the drying effect, as colours may appear brighter when wet and darker when dry.Ensure a smooth and opaque finish by layering.
Weathering Techniques:Stipple Rhinox Hide for additional details, using a foam piece held by tweezers.Apply weathering heavily to achieve a worn and battle-hardened look.Consider the impact areas for realistic weathering, such as edges and front sections.
Adding Red Markings:Use Evil Suns Scarlet for red markings.Differentiate leader tanks by adding a red turret.Apply the red markings consistently across Legions Imperialis tanks for uniformity.
Metallic and Lens Details:Use Exhaust Manifold by Vallejo for metallic parts.Apply Agrax Earthshade for a wash over the metallic sections.Paint lenses black and highlight with a mix of black and white in three stages.
Final Touches:Add decals before applying any oil wash to blend them with the weathering.Consider adding additional details like hazard stripes or cables for higher-level detailing.Apply a final matte varnish or Games Workshop fixative to set the weathering powder and prevent rubbing off.
Optional Colour Variations:Experiment with different colours based on personal preferences.Lighter colours with heavy weathering can enhance contrast and visibility in smaller scale models.Customise the Legions Imperialis tanks according to your gaming preferences.
Final Assessment and Variations:Assess the overall look of the Legions Imperialis tank for any additional highlighting or weathering needed.Consider variations in colours and markings for a diverse tank fleet.Keep in mind that the level of detail can be adjusted based on personal preferences and the purpose of the painted tanks (e.g., gaming).!
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This video tutorial looks at how to paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paints, using a couple of the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and specifically using ‘Imperial Fist’ paint! I also go through top techniques and tips you can use on all your Space Marines.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints and materials were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust Manifold
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Micro Set
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00,
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
Preparing the Base Coat
Start with Mournfang Brown as the base coat. This provides a solid foundation and eliminates black elements that might affect the final colour. Apply a thin, even layer to ensure a smooth finish.
Creating a Pre-Shade Effect
To create a pre-shade effect, mix P3 Morrow White with Mournfang Brown. This technique helps in achieving both highlights and shadows in one go. Avoid taking the pre-shade highlight all the way up to pure white unless you desire a very bright yellow.
Applying Imperial Fist Contrast Paint
Use the Imperial Fist contrast paint, a bright yellow, over the pre-shaded model. This contrast paint is translucent and needs a light base for optimal results. Apply it evenly, focusing on the model’s raised areas to enhance the pre-shade effect. If the first coat appears too orange, apply a light layer of P3 Morrow White on the desired areas and reapply the contrast paint for a brighter yellow.
Enhancing Highlights with White
For areas requiring a more vibrant yellow, directly apply P3 Morrow White using an airbrush. This step significantly brightens up the yellow tones, providing a more striking appearance to the model.
Adding Depth with Contrast Paints
Experiment with Rattling Grime contrast paint for adding depth. If it appears too dark, dilute it with Contrast Medium. Apply it sparingly, especially in recessed areas, to create natural shadows.
Applying Matte Varnish
Once the contrast paints are dry, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This helps to dull any unwanted shine and sets the base for further detailing.
Glazing with Yriel Yellow
Create a glaze by heavily thinning down Yriel Yellow with water. Apply this glaze selectively to the model’s raised areas, building up the colour in thin layers. This process enhances the vibrancy of the yellow and adds more dimension.
Detailing with Additional Colours
Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for detailing elements like scroll work. These colours contrast well with the yellow and bring out the finer details. For battle damage, use Rhinox Hide or a similar dark colour to create chips and scratches.
Highlighting Battle Damage
Mix Yriel Yellow with a bit of white (or use Dawn Yellow) for highlighting the lower edges of the battle damage. This creates a more realistic chipped paint effect.
Painting the Weapon
For the bolter or other weapons, use a combination of German Grey and Neutral Grey from Vallejo. Apply them in a gradient for a realistic metallic effect, and use black to blend and soften transitions.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint lenses and eyes using Sotek Green, gradually adding white to the mix for successive highlights. Ensure the brightest highlights are off-centre for a natural glow effect.
Finishing Touches
Finally, apply Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand to the base and lower parts of the legs for a gritty, battle-worn look. Seal with a matte varnish to fix the powder in place.
More Contrast Paint Tutorial and Projects
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step Guide
Want more? Download the detailed PDF guide!
If you’ve enjoyed the video and want to take your painting to the next level, don’t forget to download the accompanying PDF guide. This extra resource provides step-by-step instructions, close-up insights, and useful tips to help you perfect the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold technique on Rogal Dorn’s armour. Whether you’re watching the video or painting at your own pace, the guide is here to ensure you achieve the best results.
Download the PDF Guide and master the art of NMM gold!
Read Now
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Here is a kit review for the New Trugg the Troggoth King from the Gloomspite Gitz army. I also show how to fill in gaps in the plastic using Sprue Glue.
Tools Used on Trugg the Troggoth King
Sprue glue (made from Tamia extra thin glue and waste sprue)
Tamiya extra thin glue
Tamiya sanding pads
Modelling putty (optional, mentioned as an alternative to sprue glue for a longer but more detailed process)
Sandpaper
Step by Step Guide
Begin by assembling the model, focusing on its open design to make painting easier.Glue the model together, leaving only the head separate for more detailed painting.
Notice join lines, especially on areas like horns, where the gaps are obvious and need attention
Prepare sprue glue by cutting waste sprue from a plastic kit.Place the sprue pieces into a container with Tamiya extra thin glue, ensuring the consistency is not too thin.
Use the sprue glue to fill join lines by blobbing it onto the gaps.Ensure the sprue glue is thick enough, containing sufficient plastic material.
After applying sprue glue, use Tamiya extra thin glue to blend and smooth the surface.Work the extra thin glue to create a seamless transition, eliminating hard, bumpy edges.
Cut off excess sprue glue after it has been applied and blended.Allow the model to dry overnight for the sprue glue to set completely.If desired, go back and sand over the top for a smoother finish.Use Tamiya sanding pads or similar tools for flexibility, especially on organic shapes
Prime the model after gap-filling to see how well the join lines have vanished.Note any minor indentations, which can be painted over as part of the organic shape.
If there are concerns with the sculpting of rock parts or moss details, sneakily mask them by adding additional textures using materials like sand or other textured elements.
More Assembly Tutorials
Lots More Tutorials!
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This video takes a look at the distortion on the marines and tries to fix the issue. Legions Imperialis was sent to me by Games Workshop as an early review copy.
In this video, I’m tackling a little issue with the Legions Imperialis Marines from the latest game. These guys are small, about 9 millimeters tall and they’ve got some quirks…
So, in this tutorial, I’m walking you through how I clean them up. I grab a trusty scalpel, trim off the excess plastic, and then work some magic with Tamia extra thin glue to make it all smooth and polished.
Steps to Fix the Legions Imperialis
Step 1: Identify IssuesStart by examining the Legions Imperialis Marines for any deformities or excess plastic.Note specific areas that need attention, such as the back of the gun, gaps between limbs, or any other noticeable imperfections.Step 2: Gather MaterialsObtain a scalpel, ensuring it is sharp for precision.Prepare Tamiya extra thin glue or a similar product for smoothing and blending the cut areas.Have your choice of paints ready for later stages.Step 3: Cut Excess PlasticCarefully use the scalpel to cut away excess plastic, following the natural lines of the model.Focus on areas where the deformities are most prominent, like the back of the gun or gaps between limbs.Be careful, as the models are small, and small, deliberate movements are essential.Step 4: Clean Up the CutsUse the scalpel to clean up the cut areas, creating a neat and smooth finish.Don’t worry too much about perfect precision, as the Tamiya glue will help blend and soften the edges later.Step 5: Address Specific IssuesPay extra attention to problematic areas, such as gaps between limbs or any distorted sections.Address these issues with precise cuts and clean-ups to improve the overall appearance.Step 6: Apply Tamiya Extra Thin GlueRun Tamiya extra thin glue over the cut areas to soften and blend the plastic.This step is crucial for achieving a seamless look and hiding any imperfections from the cuts.Step 7: PaintingOnce the glue has dried, proceed with painting the Legions Imperialis Marines! Why not follow one of my tutorials?
While this process may seem meticulous, it’s essential to note that the level of detail and effort put into fixing the models is a personal choice. Not everyone may find it necessary, especially for gaming purposes. However, for those who are particular about the appearance of their models, these steps offer a solution to improve the overall look of the Legions Imperialis Marines.
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In this free video you will be shown how to paint a Night Lords Praetor in terminator armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!)
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Kantor Blue, Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue (optional), Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Firedragon Bright, Baneblade Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Balor Brown, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Windsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron Scale 75: Elven Gold (optional)P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step by Step : How to paint a Night Lords Praetor
Painting Steps:
Priming and Assembly: Assemble your model fully and prime it in black. In this case, the head is already glued in, making it slightly more challenging to paint.
Base Layering: Start with Night Lords Blue, diluted roughly 50:50 with water. Use a small dry brush or makeup brush to stipple the paint onto the model, ensuring to get into all the recesses.
Progressive Highlights: Apply subsequent layers of Kantor Blue, then Macragge Blue. With each layer, be less vigorous and focus more on areas where light naturally hits.
Detailing with a Small Brush: For hard-to-reach areas like the chest, use a small brush to apply highlights.
Final Highlighting: If desired, add a final stage of highlighting with Calgar Blue, although its translucency can be less satisfying. A mix of Macragge Blue and white can be more effective.
Blocking in Other Colours: Apply base colours for other parts of the model, such as Mephiston Red for red areas, Baneblade Brown for leather straps, and Balor Brown for skulls and bones.
Metallics and Golds: Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron and golden areas with Scale 75 Elven Gold.
Gloss Varnish and Oil Wash: Once all base colors are blocked in, apply Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish. Follow this with a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint thinned with mineral spirits. Apply it liberally over the model and then remove excess with a clean brush dipped in mineral spirits.
Matte Varnish: After the oil wash has dried, apply Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish to prepare the model for further acrylic painting.
Refining Highlights: Revisit areas with acrylic highlights, enhancing details and cleaning up where necessary.
Lightning Effect: Use a mix of Macragge Blue and white, then pure white, to paint lightning effects on armor panels.
Finishing Touches: Add final details to the model such as eye lenses, further skull highlighting, and final metallic edge highlights.
Base Detailing: For the base, use Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand over glued sand for a realistic texture.
Additional Tips on how to paint a Night Lords Praetor:
Keep the paint consistency thin to avoid losing details.
Use stippling and careful brushwork to create texture and depth.
Be patient with the oil wash and varnish steps, as they significantly enhance the final look.
Experiment with the lightning effect to create dynamic visual interest on the armor.
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These videos shows how to paint an Ork Beastboss to a high level tabletop standard.In them, we are aiming to achieve a rugged, battle-worn look, emphasising strong contrasts and weathered metallics.
Quick Jump to:
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part OneMaterials NeededStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossVideo – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part TwoPaints UsedStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossPDF GuideFree Video Tutorials
There is also a detailed 26 page PDF guide for this model, which can be found here.
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Ork Beastboss Miniature
Brushes: Various sizes for different techniques
Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast)
Vallejo Paints: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow
P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white will do)
Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss
Priming and Zenithal Highlighting:
Prime the model black and apply a zenithal highlight using Vallejo Pale Grey Blue. This creates natural shadows and highlights, guiding future paint layers.
Skin Tones:
Paint the Ork’s flesh using a 50/50 mix of Ork Flesh Contrast and Contrast Medium. This enables some of the grey from the zenithal highlighting to show through, providing a guide for later highlights.
Fur and Details:
Apply Skeleton Horde Contrast directly for fur, ensuring highlights are visible.
Use Volupus Pink Contrast for lizard-like skin textures and Blood Angel Red Contrast for the top knot and tassel.
Armour and Metallics:
Paint areas intended to be bronzy or gold with Gryph-Hound Orange Contrast. This creates a dark orange base over the light grey zenithal highlights.
For black areas or parts you want darker, mix Black Templar Contrast with Contrast Medium and apply.
Bronze Metallics:
Start painting the skeleton head and other bronzy parts. Use scratchy, rough strokes to build up layers, starting from a darker base and gradually adding lighter colours for highlights.
Highlight Placement:
Follow the guide provided by the zenithal priming for light placement, enhancing it with further highlights where needed.
Steel Armor:
For a steel-like finish on certain armour parts, use a similar scratchy technique, starting with Vallejo Dark Sea Grey and building up to lighter greys and whites.
Weathering and Rust:
Add weathering using Mournfang Brown and Trollslayer Orange, focusing on recessed areas, rivets, and parts where rust naturally accumulates.
Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part Two
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast) Vallejo: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White (Any white will do)
Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss
Picking up from where we left off in the first guide…
1. Sword (Big Chopper) with Rusty Texture
Base Layer: Start with Rhinox Hide, using a scribbly and scratchy technique similar to the armour’s style. This creates a dark base for the flat of the blade. If Rhinox Hide is unavailable, mix Mournfang Brown with Black for a close approximation.
Stippling Technique: Apply Mournfang Brown with stippling, creating a rusty texture. Remember, the paint can be a bit thicker here to add texture.
Additional Rust Effect: Use Trollslayer Orange for more rust detail, focusing on areas like the top hook of the blade. This paint is slightly translucent, so you might need to layer it for a stronger effect.
2. Highlighting the Blade
Scratches and Cutting Edge: Use lighter colours like Pale Grey Blue and White to highlight and define scratches and the cutting edge of the blade. This gives a contrasting effect to the rusty areas.
Bounce Highlights: Consider adding bounce highlights to reflect the battlefield’s environment, like green reflections for a green terrain.
3. Horns and Fur
Base Colours: Use the same colours as the blade for consistency. Start with a mix of Rhinox Hide and Morghast Bone.
Highlighting: Gradually lighten the base with pure Morghast Bone and then Screaming Skull, focusing more on the base of the horns and the top of the fur for a natural gradient.
4. The Face
Initial Layers: Begin with a base of Warboss Green. You might need several layers due to its translucency. To reduce the shine from contrast paints, apply an ultra-matte varnish partway through the painting process.
Detailing: Add more detail than is sculpted, especially around the temple and eyes, to create a more menacing look. Use Warboss Green mixed with Screaming Skull for highlights, making the face a focal point.
5. Teeth and Bone Decorations
Base Colour: For teeth and bone-like decorations, start with a base of Balor Brown.
Texture Technique: Use a stippling and scratchy technique for texture, similar to the horns and fur.
6. Red Hair
Base and Highlights: Start with a base of Evil Sunz Scarlet. For highlighting, mix in a bit of white for a slightly pinkish hue, but be careful not to overdo it.
Detailing: Use vertical strokes to highlight, focusing on the strands without overly brightening the recesses.
7. Loin Cloth (Lizard Skin)
Base Layer: Use Xereus Purple over a base that was previously primed and given a coat of Volupus Pink.
Highlighting: Highlight selectively, focusing on larger scales and facets. Use lighter shades of purple mixed with white for the highlights, but remember to keep the overall area dark for contrast.
8. Verdigris Effect on Bronze Areas
Base Colour: Apply Sotek Green, watered down for a flowing effect into recesses.
Layering: Add white to Sotek Green for progressive highlights, focusing on the darker areas and avoiding the brightest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
9. Back to the Face
Detailed Texturing: Add more detailed textures to the face using the lighter green mixture, emphasizing areas where light hits directly.
Balancing Highlights: Alternate between highlighting and shading to balance the contrast and maintain the focus on the face.
10. Finishing the Eyes
Initial Layers: Start with a base of Pearl Grey Blue, then define the iris with Sotek Green.
Highlighting: Use lighter shades of blue for the lower parts of the eyes. For the final highlights, map out the placement with the first highlight blue, focusing on the top left to represent the light source.
11. Final Touches
Teeth and Tongue: Paint teeth in Balor Brown and adjust the tongue if needed.
Bone Decorations: Add final touches to bone decorations, ensuring they stand out against the hair.
Red Hair: Refine the highlights and ensure they blend well with the base colour.
And there you have it, your Ork Beastboss is now ready for battle, boasting a range of textures and colours, all contributing to its fierce and battle-worn appearance. For more detailed instruction, check out the PDF Guide!
PDF Guide
I have also created a detailed 26 page PDF guide on painting this model, that can be found here for full website members:
How to Paint an Ork Beastboss – PDF
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Two videos on how I painted this Rockgut Troggoth quickly using Contrast Paints, with step by step guides to the methods I used with which paints. Read on and good luck!
Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step GuideVideo Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsMaterials and Paints:StepsShow it off!More Free Video Tutorials
Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints and Materials Needed
Black Primer
Wraithbone (Games Workshop)
Contrast Paints (Magos Purple, Skeleton Horde, Wyldwood, Aethermatic Blue, Black Templar – all from Games Workshop)
P3 Morrow White (or any alternative white paint)
Fine Brushes
Airbrush (optional)
Wet Palette
Step by Step Guide
Base Coating with Contrast Paints: After priming your Rockgut Troggoth with black and then applying a zenithal highlight of Wraithbone (using an airbrush or rattle-can), start applying contrast paints. Focus on using Magos Purple for the skin, being generous with the paint to ensure proper flow and coverage.
Handling Overpainting and Pooling: If you accidentally overpaint or encounter pooling, use a clean brush to soak up the excess. Remember, contrast paints are designed to settle in recesses, so a heavier application is acceptable.
Painting Other Elements: Use different contrast paints for various parts of the model. Apply Skeleton Horde for the teeth, toenails, and wrappings, and Wildwood for the hammer’s handle. The nature of contrast paints means they will flow into crevices and recesses, creating natural shadows.
Applying Contrast to the Rocky Skin: For the rocky skin and other stone-like textures, use Aethermatic Blue. The contrast paints will naturally create a depth effect, with darker areas in recesses and brighter highlights on raised surfaces.
Utilising Black Templar for Darker Areas: Apply Black Templar contrast paint for the rock elements and the loincloth. This step will provide a solid base and emphasise the darker regions of the Troggoth.
Review and Adjust: Once all the contrast paints are applied, review your model. The use of different contrast paints should have already created a variety of tones and shades on the model. If necessary, touch up any areas where the paint may have pooled excessively or where coverage is uneven.
Enhancing Highlights on the Skin: To enhance the skin, mix some P3 Morrow White with Magos Purple to create a light purple hue. Apply this mixture to the skin’s raised areas, following the zenithal highlights you established earlier. This step will add more depth and dimension to the Troggoth’s skin.
Adding Detail to Crystal Skin: For the crystal-like skin, create a mixture of Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue. Focus on painting the flat, upward-facing surfaces of the crystals to mimic the appearance of hard, reflective edges.
Video Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints
Materials and Paints:
Games Workshop: Magos Purple (Contrast), Plaguebearer Flesh (Contrast), Slaanesh Grey, Daemonette Hide, Balor Brown, Moot Green, XV-88, Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone, Naggaroth Night
Vallejo: Ice Yellow (or Dorn Yellow)
P3: Morrow White (or White Scar)
Steps
Rock-Like Skin Textures:
Mix Aethermatic Blue with white for a greeny-grey shade.
Apply to the flat surfaces and edges of the rocky textures.
Highlight with pure white (Morrow White/White Scar).
Skin Highlights:
Use pre-mixed Magos Purple and white for primary skin highlights.
Add secondary highlights with Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide, focusing on reflective light areas.
Wood Detailing:
Apply Balor Brown for the base wood grain on the mallet.
Highlight progressively with XV-88 and Zandri Dust.
Final highlights with Ushabti Bone.
Rock and Wood Texturing:
Glaze rock textures with Naggaroth Night to deepen shadows.
Lightly glaze wood with Plaguebearer Flesh for a mossy effect.
Loincloth and Trinkets:
Base the loincloth with XV-88, highlight with Zandri Dust, and then Ushabti Bone.
Paint trinkets starting with XV-88, highlight with Balor Brown, then Ice Yellow for brightest points.
Final Highlights and Adjustments:
Reapply Magos Purple and white mix on skin for final highlights.
Highlight rock textures with Morrow White.
Apply Moot Green selectively for contrast, especially in shadows.
Unify with Naggaroth Night glaze to smooth transitions and deepen shadows.
Troggoth Eyes and Claws:
Base eyes with Yriel Yellow, add a white dot for the pupil.
Claw highlights with Ushabti Bone for depth.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads
Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger
Preparation:
Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set.
Prime the model with black primer.
Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!)
Helmet Painting:
Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet.
Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls.
Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering.
Metal Painting:
Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects.
Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone.
Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture.
Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas.
Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections.
Leather Parts:
Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide.
Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look.
Highlighting:
Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks.
For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference.
Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast.
For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core.
Skin Painting:
Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown.
Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white.
Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather.
Final Details:
Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look.
Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect.
Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect.
Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions.
Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting!
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The most powerful model from the Age of Sigmar Dominion box!
I thought it was time that I painted the most powerful model from the new Age of Sigmar Dominion box! It’s the mighty Stab-Grot!
Materials Required:
Stab Grot miniature, fully assembled and primed with Scale 75 Surface Black Primer
Paints: Games Workshop (Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Firedragon Bright, Daemonette Hide, Sotek Green, XV-88, Moot Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet), Vallejo (Ice Yellow, Black, Neutral Grey, White, German Grey, Pale Grey Blue)
Brushes, including a fine detail brush (size 00 recommended)
Painting Process:
Base Layers: Begin with Vallejo German Grey, applying it to the armoured parts using a scratchy technique. Concentrate on lighter points where light naturally falls (shoulder, forearm), but ensure even coverage.
Adding Tones: Apply Daemonette Hide for a subtle hint of colour. Use the same method as with German Grey but in smaller areas, allowing the underlying grey to show through for texture.
Highlights and Shading: Combine Pale Grey Blue and Daemonette Hide for highlights. Aim for a grimy, non-polished metal appearance. Use white sparingly to highlight edges and dents.
Skin Tones: Start with Sotek Green, progressively adding Moot Green and white for highlights. Focus on creating soft transitions with diluted paint for a realistic skin effect.
Leather Details: Base with Rhinox Hide, then layer with XV-88 and Cadian Fleshtone, concentrating on edges and scratches. Use watered-down Mournfang Brown for a glazing effect, softening the highlights.
Red Cloth: Base with Mephiston Red, layering for opacity. Highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet, careful not to overdo it to preserve the red’s vibrancy.
Final Touches: Add final details such as rust on the blade with Mournfang Brown and scratches with Ice Yellow. Remember, moderation is key for a realistic weathered look.
Tips for Success:
Pay attention to natural light fall for realistic highlights and shadows.
Use a scratchy technique for armour to create texture and a weathered appearance.
Thin your paints for smoother transitions, especially on the skin.
Avoid over-highlighting reds to prevent a pink or orange shade.
Patience and attention to detail are vital for a small, detailed model like Stab Grot.
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This video shows the complete process for How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator from Games Workshop including a step by step text guide and full list of colours needed.
Paints and Tools
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Warpstone Glow, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Lothern Blue, Blue Horror, XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Fire Dragon Bright, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Pale Grey Blue, White Grey, Ice Yellow
How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator
Step 1: Base Coating with Airbrush
Ensure the model is completely built and primed.
Separate the model into two sections for easier painting.
Use an airbrush with a 0.4 sized nozzle to apply a base coat of red at the top and blue at the bottom.
Mask off areas to avoid overspray and focus on highlighting towards the head and shoulders.
Step 2: Adding Highlights with Airbrush
Use Mephiston Red for the red sections and Fire Dragon Bright for the blue sections.
Be cautious with lighter colours as they can be challenging to airbrush without speckles.
Pay attention to angles to avoid overspraying onto other parts of the model.
Gradually build up the highlights, especially on the tips of the tendrils.
Step 3: Transitioning Colours
Use White or Fire Dragon Bright for highlights, but be mindful not to turn the red into pink.
Consider the translucency of the paint and how it interacts with layers.
Be strategic in highlighting to maintain the desired colour intensity.
Step 4: Detailing with Brushes
Switch to a smaller brush for fine details and lines.
Use Vallejo’s White Gray or a similar colour for opaque and solid highlights.
Follow the sculpted details and angles on the model for a stylised effect.
Step 5: Creating Contrast and Highlights on the Helmet
Apply XV88 and Balor Brown to create contrast and define shapes.
Add edge highlights to enhance details and create shine spots.
Use Vallejo’s White Gray for additional highlights.
Step 6: Adding Filigree Details
Add filigree details to areas like the cross for a shiny effect
Reinforce the glare by going over edges with a blob of paint.
Ensure consistency and follow the sculpting direction for a polished look.
Step 7: Refining Highlights and Shadows
Glaze over the model to blend highlights and shadows.
Tidy up and pick out additional details using Blue Horror.
Use Wild Rider Red for final touches on certain areas.
Step 8: Painting Wood Effect
Cover everything with Rhinox Hide for the wood effect.
Be rough and don’t worry about spikes; paint over them and pick them out in black later.
Focus on pushing lightness towards the edges of each wood plank.
Step 9: Adding Green Flame
Use Warpstone Glow for the green flame.
Be aware of the paint’s bad coverage and apply multiple coats for saturation.
Add a small bright yellow dot for high contrast.
Step 10: Applying Matte VarnishFinish by applying a coat of ultra-matte varnish to even out the surface and remove shine.
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These videos show how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee to a high level tabletop standard, ideal for a commanding presence in your army or for smaller game systems like Kill Team.
Part One – How to Paint a Howling BansheeMaterials NeededPaints NeededStep-by-Step Tips and GuidePart Two: How to Paint a Howling Banshee WeaponMaterials NeededStep-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMMMore Video Tutorials
Part One – How to Paint a Howling Banshee
This session focuses on achieving a detailed, bone-coloured armour synonymous with Howling Banshees.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed
Aeldari Howling Banshee Miniature
Brushes: Various sizes, including a size two for base coating and size 00 Artist Opus (or equivalent) for detail work.
Paints Needed
Games Workshop Paints:
Base Colours: Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Sotek Green
Shades and Glazes: Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium
Highlight and Detail Colours: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Corvus Black (for black areas)
Vallejo Paints:
Basalt Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow (for non-metallic metals)
P3 Paint:
Morrow White (or any white for extreme highlights)
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide
Base Coating and Stippling:
Prime the miniature and begin with a stippling technique using Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone.
Apply the paint thinly and evenly with a dry brush for a smooth base.
Adding Depth with Contrast Paint:
Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with Contrast Medium and apply over the stippled areas for added depth.
Refining Armour with Stippling:
Progressively build up highlights with Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, and Morrow White.
Focus on light placement to enhance features, keeping the paint watered down for a soft finish.
Glazing for Shadows:
Thin down Mournfang Brown considerably and apply in recesses to deepen shadows.
Painting the Eyes and Non-Metallic Metals:
Use Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and Basalt Grey for non-metallic metal areas, ensuring the correct placement of light and reflections.
Hair and Cloth Details:
Base the hair with Mephiston Red, building up highlights with Evil Sunz Scarlet and white.
For the black areas, create subtle highlights with Basalt Grey and Pale Grey Blue, avoiding an overly grey appearance.
Final Touches:
Refine details, adjust highlights, and ensure a balanced, cohesive look.
Part Two: How to Paint a Howling Banshee Weapon
The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights.
Materials Needed
Cybrite Green (Games Workshop)
Black (Vallejo Model Colour)
Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop)
Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop)
Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white)
A fine brush
A wet palette
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM
Base Layer: Firstly, coat the power weapon in black, creating a pristine base.
Green Layering:
Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the weapon less exposed to light.
Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions.
Highlight Application:
Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes.
Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint.
Texture via Stippling:
With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity.
Reflections Definition:
Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts.
Finalising Highlights:
Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect.
Gemstone Painting:
For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection.
For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights.
Refinement and Adjustment:
If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred.
Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance.
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This video tutorial and step-by-step guide shows how to paint a Desolation Dark Angel, one of the new Desolation Marines from the Strike Force Agastus, which was sent to me by Games Workshop. Read on for a full video, lots of tips and full materials and paints list.
Video Tutorial – Desolation Dark Angel
Materials:
Vallejo Model Colour (New): Angel Green, Charcoal, Toxic Yellow, Black, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Grunge Brown, Orange Fire, Nocturnal Red, Scarlet Blood
Games Workshop: Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium
Two Thin Coats: Plate Armour, Dragon’s Gold
P3: Morrow White
Steps:
Base Coat:Mix Angel Green and Charcoal (50:50 ratio).Apply this mix over the entire model using a large dry brush or makeup brush.Water the paint down slightly for a smoother application, aiming for a 50:50 water-to-paint ratio.
Layering:Apply straight Angel Green on top, using a kitchen roll to dab off excess paint for a thin layer.Focus on light volumes, covering flat surfaces more than edges.
Metallics:Paint metallic areas using Two Thin Coats’ Plate Armour and Dragon’s Gold.Thin these slightly for better flow and coverage.
Red Details:Use Nocturnal Red and Scarlet Blood for red areas, like the gun.Mix them for a base layer, then use Scarlet Blood mixed with a bit of white for highlights.
Adding Depth:Use Vallejo Black for shading and defining darker areas.
Highlighting Armour:Create three mixes on your palette: pure Angel Green, a 50:50 mix of Angel Green and Toxic Yellow, and a majority Toxic Yellow with a small amount of Angel Green.Apply these mixes progressively, starting with the darkest and moving to the lightest for highlights. Use a brush control technique similar to edge highlighting.
Contrast and Washes:Apply Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) selectively, followed by Contrast Medium for dilution in specific areas.Use Nuln Oil for metallic parts to create depth.
Detailing Metallics:Add highlights to metallic areas using a mix of Plate Armour and white.
Eyes and Lenses:Paint eyes with a base of Nocturnal Red, adding highlights with a mix of Scarlet Blood and white.Use a small white dot for reflection. For lenses, use Turquoise mixed with Charcoal, then highlight with Aquamarine and pure white.
Final Touches:Add fine scratches and details using lighter shades of the base colours.For the belt, use Grunge Brown base and Orange Fire for highlights.
Basing:Apply PVA glue and sand.Once dry, wash with Agrax Earthshade and apply weathering powder.
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This video looks at the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and I use them to paint a very colourful Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer. Read on to watch and follow along with a detailed step-by-step paints and steps guide.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mantis Warriors Green (Contrast), Striking Scorpion Green (Contrast), Karandras Green (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Magmadroth Flame (Contrast), Baal Red (Contrast), Doomfire Magenta (Contrast), Sigvald Burgundy (Contrast), Seraphim Sepia (Shade), Flash Gitz Yellow, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Xereus Purple
Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Matt
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
Priming and Preparing the Model Start by assembling and priming your Gossamid Archer model. Use Wraithbone as a base colour, which helps in achieving brighter, cleaner colours. If you want an even brighter finish, you can spray the whole model white. A zenithal highlight can be applied to create natural focal points on the head and chest, allowing for more dynamic shading.
Applying Base Colours with Contrast Paints Begin painting with a variety of contrast paints to achieve a vibrant and varied colour scheme. Use a large brush like an Artist Opus size 4 for quick application. Key contrast paints to use are Striking Scorpion Green, Karandras Green, and Garaghak’s Sewer. While the paints are still wet, you can blend them together on the model for a smooth transition. However, be cautious of drying times to avoid streaking.
Correcting and Refining with Airbrush If needed, refine areas with an airbrush. For instance, overpainting with Striking Scorpion Green can provide a more opaque and smoother finish, especially on the wings.
Mixing Contrast Paints with Acrylics Contrast paints can be mixed with regular acrylics for more versatility. Mix Striking Scorpion Green with P3 Morrow White to create various shades for highlighting. This method allows for smooth transitions and a semi-translucent finish.
Painting Wings with Dragonfly Effect For a dragonfly-like effect on the wings, use a mix of Striking Scorpion Green and white to paint vein-like lines, emulating a dragonfly’s wing pattern. Start with basic lines, then create four-sided shapes like rectangles or squares, resembling the vein structure. The lines don’t need to be perfect, as the organic nature of the wings allows for some variation. Ensure your brush isn’t overloaded with paint for finer lines.
Skin and Body Details For the skin, use Magmadroth Flame contrast paint, which provides a strong, vibrant base while still allowing for natural shading in recesses. For the arm and other body parts, apply Sigvald Burgundy, Baal Red, Doomfire Magenta, and other contrast colours, blending while they are wet for a smooth transition. Use smaller brushes for detailed areas, and ensure you cover all surfaces.
Highlighting and Detailing Highlight the skin by mixing Magmadroth Flame with Kislev Flesh, gradually adding more Kislev Flesh and white for higher highlights. Apply these mixes to the raised areas like shoulders, chest, and arms. For the hair, start with a vibrant base of Flash Gitz Yellow, dulled down with a Seraphim Sepia wash. Highlight by adding white to Flash Gitz Yellow for a striking effect.
Bow and Other Accessories Paint the bow using Rhinox Hide, XV-88, and Balor Brown, adding white for final highlights. Keep the painting simple, avoiding overly intricate freehand patterns unless desired. Remember to mix and match colours to add more interest to the model.
Finishing Touches with Matt Varnish Once the painting is complete, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This will unify the finish of the model, reducing any unwanted shine from the contrast paints and enhancing the overall appearance.
More Contrast Paint Projects and Tutorials
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This video shows you how to paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz army for Age of Sigmar. The model was painted exclusively using Two Thin Coats paints.In this how to paint a Squigboss video, we’ll be doing something a bit different. I’ll guide you through the process of painting the Squig boss, generously sent to me by Games Workshop. Alongside, I’ll be reviewing a set of paints I personally purchased, intrigued by reviews—the Two Thin Coats series by Duncan Rhodes. These paints will exclusively adorn our Squigboss, and I’ve procured them independently. So, no sponsorships or freebies; it’s all about exploring these paints. Now, let’s get started!
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:Two Thin Coats: Two Thin Coats: Doom Death Black, White Star, Etheral Green, Carcharodon Grey, Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, Skeleton Legion, Demon Red, Scorched Earth, Dragon Fang, Boar Hide, Sanguine Scarlet, Dwarven Skin, Marine Blue, Orange Flare, Emerald Green, Wolf Grey, Fanatic Orange, Cuirass Leather, Berserker Red
Tips on how to paint a Squigboss with these paints!
Base Coat with Boar Hide Colour:Initiate with the “Boar Hide” shade, akin to Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, serving as the foundational coat for the entire Squig boss model.
Non-Metallic Metal Gold Face Mask:I’ve gone for a non-metallic gold style for the goblin’s face mask, utilising the unique properties of the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats series.Apply the same colours used for the face mask on the staff, creating a non-metallic metal effect. Note differences in technique for different areas.
Adapting to Paint Properties:The paints seem quite nice to work with. Thinning is essential, however, and adapting to the colours’ strength becomes a creative challenge.
Use Translucent Marks for Subtle Effects:Experiment with translucent or softer marks by thinning the paint more. This technique can be effective for creating subtle details but requires precision in application.
Be Mindful of Paint Strength:As mentioned, the colour strength might be stronger than anticipated, so be cautious when adding subtle marks. Adjust as needed to avoid overpowering the model with vibrant colours.
Varied Application Techniques:Explore different application techniques for varied textures and effects. The angular features of the model complement the paints’ adaptability very well and allows for creative highlighting and detailing
Matte Finish and Dark Tones:Consider a matte finish for the model to achieve a pastel look. Embrace the dark and yellow tones for added depth and character.
Diverse Colour Palette for Highlights:Incorporate a diverse colour palette, such as Dark Sun Yellow, for highlighting and detailing, providing a unique touch to gold and other elements. The matte finish and the richness these paints bring to dark and yellow tones is great.
Quick Scratches and Detailing:Create quick, sharp scratches and detailing, adding interest to specific areas without the need for extensive blending. Quick and sharp detailing becomes a breeze with these paints, making them ideal for adding interesting detail without the need for laborious blending.
Highlighting with Translucent White:Use translucent white for highlighting, applying small amounts to achieve a subtle effect. Ensure quick application to prevent drying before reaching the model.
Colour Variations for Textures:Experiment with different colours for textures, adapting to the model’s features. Allow the varied palette to enhance details and bring out the intricacies. The paints are good at bringing out intricate details.
Teeth Detailing:Detail the teeth with simple lines, complementing the skin fold creases. Use the extra detailing to fill spaces and add interest without smoothing transitions.
Remember, the beauty lies in adapting and exploring the properties of the paints. Happy painting!
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This video guide and full instructions will walk you how to paint a Castellax model from the Mechanicum Battle Force box set. The goal is to achieve a high-quality tabletop standard using quick, repeatable techniques—no airbrush required!
The process focuses on achieving a grimy, weathered look that complements a Death Guard army.
Video – How to Paint a Castellax from the Mechanicum Battle Force Box
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow
Vallejo: Model Colour Black
Scalecolour: Necro Gold
Pro Acryl: Light Bronze Metallic
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Artis Opus Size 4 (Worn-out brush for stippling)
Artis Opus Size 3M (Shorter bristle brush for dry brushing)
Size 0 brush (for detailing)
Size 00 brush (for fine details)
A piece of dense foam (for sponge chipping)
Step 1: Preparation
Begin by assembling the model, leaving the legs separate from the torso to make painting easier. This is a common technique to manage sub-assemblies, allowing easier access to harder-to-reach areas and making the model more manageable to hold.
All I’ve done there is put some sprue glue and I’d left that to dry so I hadn’t sanded that down perfectly smooth here because the shoulder pad’s coming two parts and you can clearly see how one part connects to the other, but they are glued onto the model at the moment.
While it’s possible to leave the shoulder pads off to make painting easier, it’s up to personal preference. Some may find that too many sub-assemblies can result in scattered parts and unfinished projects. If you do decide to leave them off, it will make painting these parts slightly easier, especially when it comes to avoiding overspill.
Step 2: Base Coat
Prime the model with a black base coat using Vallejo Model Colour Black. This forms a solid foundation for the metallic and armour colours, ensuring good coverage and depth in subsequent layers.
“The first thing we’re doing is using some scale colour necro gold… I haven’t really watered it down too much… you want it reasonably runny but not too runny.”
Ensure the base coat is smooth and even, as this will help the metallics and other layers adhere better and produce a cleaner finish.
Step 3: Metallic Base
Use Scalecolour Necro Gold to cover all metal areas of the model. Apply this using a stippling technique with a worn-out Artis Opus Size 4 brush. The goal here is to create a textured, weathered look on the metallic areas. Be cautious with the thickness of the paint to avoid unwanted texture buildup, as you only want the paint to create a visual texture, not a physical one.
“You’re just doing that all over all the metal areas on the model… be careful of physical texture buildup… the only texture you want really on the model is painting texture, not three-dimensional thick paint texture.”
Next, use Pro Acryl Light Bronze Metallic to highlight raised areas. Focus on prominent features like the dome of the head, flamer nozzles, and the edges of the armour. Switch to a Size 3M Artis Opus brush for more control, as its shorter bristles help achieve a smooth application with this dry brushing technique.
“This is a little bit thinner than the Necro Gold and the idea with this is you’re doing a very similar kind of process with it… don’t go too crazy with the light bronze because it is a very light colour; it almost looks silver when you apply it.”
Step 4: Clean Up
Once the metallics are dry, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to go back over any areas where metallic paint has spilled onto the armour panels. This clean-up step is crucial for keeping the final look neat and avoiding metallic flakes showing through when painting the armour colours.
“When I was painting the metal I didn’t care where the paint got onto armour panels… it makes the process much quicker, and you don’t have to worry… just keeps everything looking neat.”
Take your time with this step to ensure all overspill is covered, particularly in recesses and around edges where the metallics might have spread.
Step 5: Armour Panels
Start by applying Games Workshop Balor Brown, thinned with water in a 1:1 ratio. Stipple this over all armour panels using the Size 3M brush. This technique creates a textured, weathered effect that forms the base layer for the armour.
“You’re basically covering all of the armour panels with that stippling effect… a large brush makes it hard to paint in some of these recess areas without getting the paint onto the metal.”
Next, apply Games Workshop Morghast Bone in the same manner, focusing on the curves and raised areas of the armour. The goal here is to start building up lighter areas, enhancing the depth and contrast on the model.
“You want the area to look darker in the recesses anyway… making sort of like a very soft light volume onto the armour.”
Finally, highlight the most prominent areas with Screaming Skull. As you progress to lighter colours, apply the paint more carefully, focusing on areas where light naturally hits the model, such as the tops of the shoulder pads, the chest, and the front-facing parts of the armour.
“We’re trying to get those highlight positions and be a little bit more accurate with it… you want to rotate the brush around a little bit and you also want to make sure that when you dab the brush onto the model you have it straight on.”
Remember to dab off any excess paint on kitchen roll before applying it to the model to avoid blobs or streaks.
Step 6: Applying Wash
Mix Darkoath Flesh Contrast with Contrast Medium in a 1:1 ratio. Apply this wash over the entire model, covering both the armour and metallic areas. This step is essential for toning down the highlights, blending the colours, and adding a grimy effect that suits the model’s aesthetic.
“If you use water, you will actually destroy the effect the way that the contrast paint works… it will give a very smooth, clean finish all over.”
Be mindful of pooling, especially in recesses. Use a clean brush to wick away any excess wash from these areas to maintain the model’s detail.
Contrast paint is slightly thick, so if you have a big pool of contrast paint, it will dry and it will just start to kind of gloss over some of the details.
Step 7: Decals and Further Weathering
If using decals, apply them at this stage. Use Micro Set to position them and ensure they blend seamlessly with the surface. For a more integrated look, consider applying the decals before the Darkoath Flesh wash so that they naturally blend into the model’s finish.
After the decals are in place, stipple Morghast Bone along their edges to simulate chipping and wear, especially around the corners and where the decals might receive the most damage.
Finally, apply another layer of the Darkoath Flesh wash over the decals to blend them further and reduce the starkness of the decal’s edges.
Step 8: Sponge Chipping
Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water in a 1:1 ratio. Use a piece of dense foam (such as that from old Warhammer clamshell packs) to sponge this onto the edges and areas likely to receive wear and tear. Focus on creating an irregular, natural pattern, with more chipping towards the front and the edges of the armour.
“You want to pay attention to the position of the weathering… it’s very easy to rub an edge against something, whereas the flat surface is less likely to get any damage.”
Before applying, dab the sponge on kitchen roll to remove excess paint. This prevents the foam from dumping too much paint onto the model, which could create an unwanted texture buildup.
“When you put the foam into the paint, you need to dab it off on some kitchen roll… you want to remove the excess paint.”
Step 9: Detailing
Using a Size 00 brush, paint fine scratches and streaks with Rhinox Hide. Place these near areas likely to see heavy use or impact, such as around weapons or sharp edges. This step adds realism and depth to the model by simulating wear and tear.
For larger chips created during the sponge chipping, consider adding a highlight line with Morghast Bone on the lower edge of the chip to simulate light catching the edge of the flaked paint.
“Picking out a few edges here and there… it makes it look like a chip and the light’s catching the flake of paint.”
Run the side of your brush along the edges of the armour to create subtle highlights, but focus primarily on upward-facing edges where light would naturally hit.
Step 10: Grimy Weathering
For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model,
Step 11: Further Grimy Weathering
For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model, particularly around the chainsaw blade hands, where the most action would occur.
If desired, you can mix a bit of red into the Darkoath Flesh to create a fresher, bloodier effect, adding another layer of realism to the model’s grimy appearance.
Step 12: Verdigris (Optional)
To add a verdigris effect to the metal areas, mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green in a 50:50 ratio, then thin it heavily with water (4:1). Apply this wash into the recesses and areas where water might naturally collect, simulating the patina of aged copper.
If you want to push the verdigris further, add a touch of white to the mix for the most extreme recesses, but be careful not to overdo it as it can make the effect too opaque.
Step 13: Metallic Highlights
Reapply the Light Bronze Metallic sparingly to the highest points of the metallic areas to restore some shine lost during the wash step. This should be done with a very fine brush and thinned paint (2:1 water to paint) to maintain control and avoid overpowering the subtle weathering.
Step 14: Lenses (Optional)
For the lenses, start with Warpstone Glow, then layer Moot Green, followed by a final highlight with Flash Gitz Yellow. This creates a gradient effect that mimics light shining through the lens.
“This makes it slightly less shiny… it just depends on how you want to do it; I just like the way this looks personally.”
Finish by adding a small white dot in the top left corner of each lens for a reflective effect, bringing the lenses to life and adding a focal point to the model.
Final Touches and Further Tips
As you finish your Castellax, take a moment to review your work and touch up any areas that may need it. Focus on ensuring your highlights are consistent, your grime looks natural, and that the overall effect is cohesive and fitting with the rest of your army.
Further Tips:
Patience with Stippling: When stippling, less is often more. Build up your layers gradually and step back occasionally to check the overall effect. This prevents overworking the model and keeps the texture subtle and realistic.
Experiment with Washes: The mix of Contrast Medium with Darkoath Flesh can be adjusted to suit your preference. A thicker wash will give a grimier look, while a thinner wash will maintain more of the underlying colour. Don’t be afraid to experiment on a test model or a hidden part of the figure.
Edge Highlighting: For a clean and professional finish, take your time with edge highlighting. While it may seem tedious, careful edge highlighting can significantly enhance the depth and definition of your model, making it stand out on the tabletop.
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In this tutorial, we’re diving into the wonderfully grim world of Nurgle as we explore how to bring the Rotbringer Sorcerer from Age of Sigmar to life with vivid detail. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will equip you with techniques and tips to get going.
Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part One:
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part Two
Materials and Paints
Primer: Badger’s Ultimate Primer Black
Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Skeleton Horde Contrast
Vallejo Paints: Basalt Grey, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (optional)
P3 Paints: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide to the Rotbringer Sorceror:
Preparation and Priming: Fully assemble your Rotbringer Sorcerer and prime it with a black primer. For easier access to intricate areas, consider leaving the arm that holds the scythe detached during priming.
Base Coating: Apply base coats using Mournfang Brown for wooden elements and Basalt Grey for the cloak and scythe blade. Bugman’s Glow is ideal for flesh areas. Apply these base coats roughly, aiming for coverage rather than precision.
Skin Tones: Enhance skin areas with Bugman’s Glow, providing a rosy, dark flesh tone. Progress with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights, ensuring to thin your paints for a smooth finish.
Wood and Metal Detailing: Utilise Balor Brown for initial wood highlights, transitioning to Mournfang Brown for added depth. For metallic areas like the scythe blade, start with Rhinox Hide, building up to Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights. Create rust effects using Trollslayer Orange.
Shading: Employ Corvus Black, adequately thinned, to add depth through shading across the model, focusing on recesses and shadowed areas.
Detail Enhancement: Use Screaming Skull for edge highlights and detail work on scrolls and similar features. Maintain thin paint layers for refinement.
Textures and Freehand Elements: Incorporate freehand elements like Nurgle symbols using Mephiston Red. Apply textures such as rust and wood grain using stippling techniques with Trollslayer Orange for rust and Morghast Bone for wood grain.
Verdigris Effect: On copper elements, create a verdigris effect with Sotek Green mixed with white. Apply this judiciously to areas that would naturally show oxidation, steering clear of bright highlights.
Candle Flames: Paint candle flames using Yriel Yellow, adding Trollslayer Orange to the tips. Blend these colours for a realistic flame appearance.
Model Basing: Prepare a base that complements the model, using a mix of sand, poly filler, and paint it with XV-88, Morghast Bone, and weathering powder. Introduce grass patches for added realism.
Final Adjustments: Revisit the Rotbringer Sorcerer for any last highlights or corrections. Use a precise brush for fine details, ensuring the paint consistency is suitable.
Model Sealing: Once satisfied with the painting, apply a matte varnish to protect your work.
Tips:
Thin your paints for smoother layers and better control.
Utilise an older brush for base coating and a newer, finer brush for detailed work.
Regularly assess your work from a distance for adjustments.
Experiment with light placement for dynamic highlighting and shadowing effects on your Rotbringer Sorceror.
Initial layers don’t need perfection as they will be layered over with more detail.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
More Nurgle Tutorials
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This free video shows how to paint OSL on the Vargskyr from the Cursed City boxed game by Games Workshop with some easy to follow tips.
The following paints were used on the modelGames Workshop: Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow, Baharroth Blue, Blue Horror, Contrast Skeleton Horde Vallejo: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Black, Pale Grey Blue
Top Tips on How to paint OSL on the Vargskyr
Priming and Base Coat:
Start by priming the model with an ultimate primer, like Badger primer, for a slightly satin finish.Use a black base coat for the OSL (Object Source Lighting) effect, as it provides high contrast.Begin with Warpstone, applying a couple of coats with an airbrush for the green glow.
Adding OSL Effect:
For a sickly look, hold the airbrush a bit further and add yellow to the warp stone glow.Rotate the model to ensure lighting works from multiple angles.Reduce the spray area and focus on the back with Baharroth Blue to enhance the OSL effect.
Matte Varnish and Detail Restoration:
Apply a coat of ultra matte varnish, like Lucky Varnish by Mig, to eliminate shine – this brings back detail lost in the varnishing process.Consider using multiple layers for a transition effect as layers build up.
Fur Texture:
Use Baharroth Blue for fur, but be cautious as it may create a high-contrast jump.Blend Pale Grey Blue into the fur for a smoother transition, applying thinner coats for textured effects.
Face Highlights:
Highlight the face, a major focal point, using Skeleton Horde as a guide for placement.Don’t worry about neatness; embrace the furry, textured nature of the model.
Texture Effect Painting:
Use a small brush for texture effect painting, but feel free to experiment with brush sizes.Maintain a wet paint mixture for precise dry brushing on fur, enhancing the model’s expressive nature.Accept some roughness in the paint as it adds character to a gaming model.
Green Glow and Final Touches:
Continue working on the green glow side, following the same process as the light side.Avoid excessive airbrushing for a clinical look; embrace expressive marks.Add a slightly darker gray colour to enhance details on non-glowing areas.
Frame with Black Rim:
Paint the model’s base with a black rim to frame and enhance the overall neatness.Consider the model’s orientation and adjust the painting accordingly to avoid missing details.
Blue Light from the Other Side:
Using Baharroth Blue, dry brush in the direction of the light to create a blue light effect.Maintain a consistent direction, capturing angles that highlight the green glow, face, and arm.
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This free video shows how to paint a Blood Angel in new Mark VI armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!)
Video: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials:
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Warboss Green, Moot Green, Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt IronP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour
Preparation
Clean Model: Ensure the model is cleaned of mold lines and primed. Drill the barrel for added realism if it hasn’t been done already.
Assembly: Fully assemble the model before starting to paint.
Base Coating
Red Armor:
First Layer: Start with Mephiston Red, diluting it to a 50/50 mix with water. Apply with a small drybrush or a large round soft brush, using a stippling motion to cover the armor.
Second Layer: Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to areas where light naturally falls, like shoulders and helmet, using a gentler stippling motion.
Final Layer: Add Wild Rider Red to the brightest areas, but be careful as it’s a pinky-orange hue. This layer is just for the very highlights.
Detailing
Metallics:
Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron. These metallics have good coverage, so there’s no need for a black undercoat.
Once dry, apply a coat of gloss varnish (optional).
Eyes:
Start with Warboss Green for the base of the eye lenses.
Add Moot Green over the Warboss Green, leaving some of the darker green visible around the edges.
Mix Moot Green with a bit of white for the next layer, focusing on the central part of the lenses.
Finish with a small dot of white in the center for the glowing effect.
Black Areas:
Paint any black parts like the bolter and the eyes.
Shading
Wash:
Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with a bit of Contrast Medium and apply liberally over the model for shadows and depth.
Use a clean brush to remove excess wash, especially in recesses.
Highlights and Finishing Touches
Red Armor:
Revisit with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red, focusing on areas where light hits to enhance the red color.
For chips and scratches, use Rhinox Hide with a fine brush, adding tiny dots and lines to simulate battle damage.
Metallics:
Re-highlight with Burnt Iron to restore the metallic sheen.
Base
Cover with PVA glue and sand. Once dry, apply a brown wash and let it dry.
Apply Forge World Weathering Powder
Dark Sand for a dusty, battle-worn look.
Varnishing
Finish with a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt for protection and a matte finish.
Final Touches
Detailing: Add any final details like highlighting edges or correcting overspills.
Decals (Optional): If you have Blood Angels decals, apply them after the shading stage.
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In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting. We’ll cover everything from essential tools and materials to step-by-step assembly instructions, ensuring you achieve a flawless finish on your model.
Video: How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer
How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by Step
Gather Your Tools: You’ll need Godhand clippers (or similar), a scalpel, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, and sprue glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement mixed with plastic sprue bits).Clean Your Model: Carefully clip out all the model pieces. Use your scalpel to scrape away any mould lines, always angling the blade away from the direction you’re moving to avoid cutting into the model. Take your time with this step.Remove Push-Fit Connections: Even though the model is push-fit, I cut off the connection points to avoid gaps and make painting easier. This makes for a cleaner fit.
Assembly:
Dry Fit: Before gluing, dry fit the pieces together to make sure everything lines up correctly.Glue Main Body: Apply a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to the connection points and join the pieces together. Use gentle pressure to ensure a tight fit.Leave the Head: Don’t glue the head yet, as this will make painting easier.
Gap Filling:
Identify Gaps: Look for any gaps or seams in the model where the pieces join.Apply Sprue Glue: Carefully apply sprue glue to the gaps, being careful not to get any on areas you don’t want to fill. Use the tip of your scalpel to guide the glue and remove any excess.What’s Sprue Glue? Follow this link to learn more.Smooth Out: Once the sprue glue is dry, use a fine file or sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges.Your Grey Seer model is now ready for priming and painting!
Additional Tips:
Work in a well-ventilated area as the glues and paints can be toxic.
If you accidentally get sprue glue somewhere you don’t want it, you can try to quickly remove it with extra thin cement.
Take your time and don’t rush the process. The more care you take in the preparation stages, the better the final result will be.
If you’re painting a whole army, consider cutting some corners to save time, but still aim for a neat and tidy finish.
Now you’ve learnt How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer, why not get started painting him?
How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer
My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer!
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This video shows How to Paint Darkstrider, who is a Tau special character for 40k.We’re aiming for a stealthy and moody look, differing from the standard bright and clear artwork. Because of that, it’s essential to prime the figure in black for the deep, shadowy effect we’re going for.
How to Paint Darkstrider – Video
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Needed:
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer Black
Paints: Games Workshop (XV-88, Balor Brown, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Macragge Blue, Yriel Yellow), Vallejo (German Grey, Black, White, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey)
Painting Steps:
Priming: Begin by priming your miniature in black. This will enhance the darker, stealthy look of the character.
Base Colours: Use XV-88 and Macragge Blue mixed with German Grey to create a desaturated base for the armour and cloth. This creates a dull, muted base, essential for the later stages of highlighting.
Blocking In: Apply Vallejo Neutral Grey to areas that will become white. For black regions, use German Grey as your initial highlight. Remember not to overdo it, or you’ll end up with grey instead of black.
Highlighting Armour: Start building highlights on the armour using a mix of XV-88 and German Grey, gradually adding less grey to each mix. Use a thin, 50:50 water-to-paint mix for a smooth transition. Focus on the chest and head for the brightest highlights, as they are the focal points.
Face and Detailing: For the face, start with a base of Macragge Blue mixed with German Grey. Gradually add more blue and then white for highlights. Pay attention to the unique features of the Tau’s face, using the sculpt as a guide. Add detail and texture through your brushwork.
Non-Metallic Gold Elements: Use XV-88 as a base for gold elements, highlighting progressively with Balor Brown and Ice Yellow. Remember, the brighter and larger your highlight, the shinier the gold will appear.
How to Paint Darkstrider Lenses and Eyes: For the lens on the gun, start with Mephiston Red, adding Evil Sunz Scarlet and white for highlights. For Darkstrider’s eye, consider black with a yellow iris, as per the Warhammer animation.
Final Touches: Check the overall miniature for balance in colour and highlights. Adjust and add final details as necessary. Remember, the model should look cohesive from all angles.
Finishing: Once satisfied, you can finish your miniature with a suitable varnish to protect your work.
Tips:
Keep your brushwork consistent and controlled.
Use a wet palette to keep your paints workable.
Regularly step back and review your work for a balanced look.
This process should give you a Darkstrider miniature with a stealthy, dark look, different from the standard bright Tau colour schemes. Enjoy your painting!
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How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy with weathered NMM bronze effects, bandages, clothing, NMM Skull and Skin!
Scroll town to explore the two video tutorials in order, or quick jump to specific techniques and materials you might need.
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with VerdigrisPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze MummyVideo Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and BasePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideBandagesSkull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)Clothing (Trousers/Pants)BeltSkinBase and Finishing Touches
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with Verdigris
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Pure White
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy
1. Priming and Base Coating:
Start with the model already primed in black. Apply Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) roughly on the armour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. The application at this stage can be quite loose and liberal.
2. Layering for Texture:
Proceed with XV-88 (Games Workshop), this time being more careful and refined in your brushwork. Focus on creating a weathered texture, interpreting the previous layer’s marks as damage or wear. Use the very tip of the brush for finer lines and stippling.
3. Detailing with Lighter Tones:
Use Balor Brown (Games Workshop) to further enhance the details. At this stage, focus on the edges, rivets, and any other raised details on the armour. Remember, the aim is to create a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the lower edges of dents or imperfections to create depth.
4. Highest Highlights:
Introduce Ice Yellow (Vallejo) for the brightest parts of the armour. Apply it sparingly and only on the most raised areas to create the illusion of light reflecting off metal. Be cautious with this step to maintain a realistic metallic look.
5. Glazing for Depth:
If needed, mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with water to create a glaze. Apply this over areas that are in shadow or need to be toned down. This step helps integrate the highlights and creates a more cohesive look.
6. Applying Verdigris:
For the verdigris effect, use Sybarite Green and Gauss Blaster Green (both Games Workshop). Thin these paints down considerably. Apply them mainly in recessed areas, joints, and crevices where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Avoid covering the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
Technique Tips:
Work in layers, building up from dark to light to create depth and realism.
Focus on where light naturally hits the model, creating highlights that follow the form and curvature of the armour.
In the verdigris step, less is more. It’s easier to add more verdigris effect than to remove it, so start with a light application and build up as neede
Video Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and Base
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints (Games Workshop):
Mournfang Brown
Rhinox Hide
XV-88
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Ushabti Bone
Death Korps Drab
Hobgrot Hide (not recommended)
Trollslayer Orange
Paints (Vallejo):
Ice Yellow
Pure White
Neutral Grey
Brushes:
Size 00 Artis Opus Brush (for detailed work)
Size 2 Artis Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing)
Other Materials:
MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect)
Step-by-Step Guide
Bandages
Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages.
Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect.
Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail.
Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages.
Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)
Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base.
Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect.
Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades.
Clothing (Trousers/Pants)
Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour.
Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights.
Belt
Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour.
Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick.
Skin
Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas.
Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition.
Base and Finishing Touches
Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass.
Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model.
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Two videos on how to paint weathered armour plate, complete with rust, scratches and chips and a simple freehand banner. You won’t need an airbrush for this tutorial.
Video: Part One – Armour and Weathering
Materials and Paints Needed
Games Workshop Paints: Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, White
Brushes: Large dry brush (or makeup brush), fine detail brush, glazing brush (size 4 or similar)
Accessories: Water for thinning paints, kitchen towel for wiping brushes, well palette
Preparing the Model
Clean and prime your Redemptor Dreadnought model. A light grey or white primer is recommended for bright colours like yellow.
Base Coating with Stippling Technique
Mix Balor Brown with water in a roughly 50/50 ratio. This will be your base layer.
Stipple Balor Brown onto the armour panels using a large, round, flat brush. Aim for gentle touches to build up the texture without creating pronounced, three-dimensional brush marks. Allow the paint to dry fully before adding more layers. This creates a worn, battlefield-ready appearance.
Glazing for Colour Depth
Create glazes in your well palette by mixing Mournfang Brown and Yriel Yellow separately with water, using about 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint.
Apply Mournfang Brown glaze to shade areas, starting from lighter areas and moving the brush towards darker regions. This adds warmth to the shadows.
Apply Yriel Yellow glaze over the entire panel, focusing more paint towards the centre for a vibrant effect. Ensure to remove excess paint from your brush to avoid pooling.
Chipping for Weathered Effect
Use Rhinox Hide with a fine detail brush to create chipping along the edges of the armour panels where wear would naturally occur. Remember, less is more; avoid overdoing it with lines and crosses.
Highlight the lower edge of each chip with Yriel Yellow to simulate the armour’s wear and tear, making the chips stand out more against the base layers.
Detailing and Finishing Touches
Rivets: Paint each rivet with a dot of Pale Grey Blue on the top left and a tiny line on the bottom right to simulate light reflection.
Metal Exposure: Use Neutral Grey to paint areas where the metal beneath the yellow paint would show through, particularly around chips and edges. This technique helps redefine the model’s shape and adds dimensionality to the weathering.
Final Highlights: Add a final touch by placing a small dot of White on the most prominent parts of the chips and rivets to enhance the reflective effect.
Video: Part Two – Freehand Banner
Materials and Paints Needed:
Games Workshop Paints: Baneblade Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Balor Brown
Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black
Brushes: A smaller brush for initial sketching and detailing, and a larger brush for smoother finishes on larger sections.
Other Supplies: Water for thinning paints, a palette for mixing, and kitchen towel for wiping off excess paint.
Preparing the Banner:
Base Layer with Morghast Bone: Begin by sketching the basic shape of the banner on the shoulder pad using Morghast Bone. This step involves creating the outline and filling in the banner. For larger sections, use a larger brush to achieve a smoother finish.
Refining Edges: Use a smaller brush to refine the edges and the trailing ends of the banner. Aim for a shape that complements the space available on the shoulder pad, keeping in mind the overall design and avoiding overly stubby ends.
Applying Shadow with Baneblade Brown and Rhinox Hide Mix: Mix approximately 50/50 Baneblade Brown and Rhinox Hide to create a shadow colour. Apply this mixture to add depth and shadow to the banner, especially along the edges and the banner’s folds.
Highlight with Screaming Skull: To highlight the main body of the banner and give it a three-dimensional appearance, apply Screaming Skull, focusing on the central and raised areas. This step brings out the details and makes the banner stand out.
Painting the Text:
Sketching Text with Vallejo Model Colour Black: Using a fine detail brush and Vallejo Model Colour Black, begin sketching the text onto the banner. Start with basic shapes for letters and focus on spacing. The chosen word for this tutorial is “MORTIS.”
Refining Letters: Once the basic spacing and shape are down, refine each letter for clarity and style. Adjust the thickness of the lines and add any stylistic flourishes to match the desired font. Consistency in line weight and style across all letters is crucial for readability.
Correcting and Sharpening Edges: Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull to correct any overshoots or to sharpen the edges of the letters. This step allows for cleaner lines and more precise letter shapes.
Final Touches:
Weathering: To integrate the text and banner naturally with the rest of the model, apply weathering. Use Balor Brown to simulate chipped paint and wear on the banner and text. This step adds realism and character to the model.
Applying Filters: A filter of heavily diluted Mournfang Brown and Yriel Yellow can be applied over the entire freehand work. This unifies the colours, softens the contrast, and gives the banner and text a worn look, blending them seamlessly with the model’s overall weathered appearance.
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A video tutorial with step-by-step guide on how to freehand a skull on Castellan Knight legplate, with advanced shading and patterns.
This guide will take you through painting a detailed skull freehand on the shin panel of a Castellan Knight miniature from Games Workshop. We’re focusing on creating a striking skull design amidst a vivid background, with a two-part process that lays the groundwork for intricate background details to be added later. The process begins with modifying the shin panel for a smooth painting surface, followed by base colouring, sketching, and detailing the skull.
Video: Freehand Skull on Imperial Knight Part One
Materials Needed
Brushes:
Size 1 Artis Opus Brush (used throughout the video for detailed work)
Paints:
Games Workshop (Citadel):
Rhinox Hide: Base sketching of the skull
Balor Brown: Refining skull details
Ushabti Bone: Highlighting the skull
Ceramite White: Final highlights on the skull
Wild Rider Red: Used for airbrushing the background (mentioned as part of the orange base)
Troll Slayer Orange: Part of the airbrushed background
Mournfang Brown: Used in shadows and for airbrushing background details
Privateer Press (P3):
Battlefield Brown: Alternative to GW Scorched Brown, used for shading
Vallejo:
Model Colour Black: For defining eye sockets and other dark areas on the skull
Other Materials:
Airbrush: For applying the base layer of the shin panel
Scalpel: For modifying the shin panel to create a smooth surface
Fine Grit Sandpaper: For smoothing the modified shin area
Wet Palette: To keep paints hydrated and workable
Water Container: For rinsing brushes
Paper Towels: For brush cleaning and paint dabbing
Preparation Tools:
Filling Material: To fill in gaps after modifying the shin panel for a smooth painting surface
Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Surface
Modify the Shin Panel: Begin by carefully removing excess detail from the shin panel using a scalpel. Fill in any gaps to create a smooth surface for your freehand painting. Although minor dimples might remain, they will be covered by the paintwork.
Base Colouring
Airbrush Background: Apply an airbrushed base layer using Wildrider Orange, Troll Slayer Orange, and a touch of Mournfang Brown for shadows. This creates a vibrant orange backdrop, setting a stark contrast for the skull.
Sketching the Skull
Outline with Rhinox Hide: Start sketching the skull using Rhinox Hide, focusing on getting the overall shape rather than detailed features like eye sockets or teeth. This stage doesn’t require perfection in symmetry or detail, as adjustments can be made later.
Refine with Balor Brown: With Balor Brown, begin refining the skull’s structure, particularly around the temples, nose, and eye sockets. This layer adds dimension and prepares for detailed work.
Detailing the Skull
Highlight with Ushabti Bone: Use Ushabti Bone to start bringing out the highlights of the skull. This step involves building up from the darkest shadows to the lightest areas, considering the light source will be from the top left.
Deepen Shadows: Apply Vallejo Model Colour Black to define the eye sockets and other deep shadows within the skull, enhancing the contrast and depth.
Add Texture and Fine Details: Continue with Balor Brown and Ushabti Bone, applying very light, fine strokes to create texture and detail across the skull’s surface. Focus on asymmetry and imperfections for a more realistic appearance.
Final Highlights with Ceramite White: Use Ceramite White sparingly to add the brightest highlights, concentrating on areas that would catch the most light. This step dramatically increases the contrast and brings the skull to life.
Starting the Background Pattern
Outline Pattern with Black: Begin outlining the background pattern, starting with simple geometric shapes and lines to create a non-symmetrical, maze-like design. This base pattern sets the stage for further detailing.
Apply Initial Highlights: Initially, experiment with Fire Dragon Bright for highlights but plan to integrate the skull’s colours (Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Ceramite White) into the background for consistency.
Finishing Touches
Adjust and Refine: As the background pattern develops, continuously adjust and refine the design. Incorporate shadows and highlights to create depth and interest, using P3 Battlefield Brown for shading.
Merge Skull and Background: Begin to subtly blend elements of the skull into the background pattern, ensuring the entire piece feels cohesive.
Video: Freehand Skull on Imperial Knight Part Two
Where we focus on refining the maze-like background detail introduced in Part 1, enhancing the overall visual appeal and integrating the skull into the pattern for a cohesive look.
Materials Required:
Brushes: A fine detail brush, ideally size 0 or 1.
Paints: Games Workshop’s Wild Rider Red, Rhinox Hide, Ceramite White, Zamersi Desert, Ushabti Bone, Firedragon Bright, Abaddon Black, and P3’s Battlefield Brown (or Baneblade Brown as a GW alternative).
Other Supplies: A wet palette for mixing paints, water for thinning paints, and kitchen paper for brush cleaning.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Review and Refine the Existing Pattern:
Begin by assessing the pattern laid out in Part 1. Identify areas that require refining or adjustments to ensure a unified appearance across the entire shin armour.
Adjusting the Pattern:
Use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Battlefield Brown to refine areas needing adjustments. This may involve smoothing transitions between different sections of the pattern or altering shapes to better integrate with the overall design.
Focus particularly on areas around the white dots and sections that appeared overly bright or disjointed in Part 1. The aim is to create seamless transitions between the skull and the background pattern.
Enhancing Contrast and Depth:
Apply thin glazes of Rhinox Hide in areas needing more depth, helping to highlight details and make the pattern more intricate.
Increase contrast by selectively brightening areas with Zamersi Desert, followed by Ushabti Bone and Ceramite White for the highest highlights. This step is crucial for giving the pattern a three-dimensional look.
Blending the Skull into the Pattern:
To integrate the skull into the background, extend pattern elements over the edges of the skull. Use a fine detail brush and steady hand to draw lines and shapes that flow from the skull into the surrounding areas, unifying them.
Final Highlights and Touch-Ups:
Add final highlights with Ceramite White to the highest points of the pattern, enhancing the illusion of depth and detail.
Review the piece for any areas requiring further refinement or additional highlights before sealing your work.
Glazing for Cohesion:
Create a glaze with Firedragon Bright and water for a thin consistency. Apply this over the entire pattern, especially where transitions need softening or colours unifying. The glaze will blend highlights and shadows for a cohesive look.
Finishing Touches:
Once the glaze has dried, reassess the effect. If necessary, redefine any details with base colours that may have been softened too much by the glazing.
Sealing the Work:
After ensuring the paint is completely dry, apply a matte varnish to protect your work. This also helps unify the finish across different textures and layers.
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This video shows you how to paint a Death Guard marine for the Horus Heresy. This guide incorporates a mix of airbrushing and traditional painting techniques, ideal for achieving a weathered, battle-hardened look.
Death Guard Horus Heresy – Video
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials Required:
Death Guard Marine miniature, primed black
Airbrush and Tamiya X20A thinner
Paints: Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, Ionrach Skin, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Mortarion Grime (Shade), Vallejo’s Black, Burnt Iron Metal Colour, Pure White, and P3’s Iosen Green
Brushes, including a large brush for applying washes and a fine detail brush
Painting Steps:
Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown using an airbrush, thinned with Tamiya X20A to ensure smooth application. If an airbrush is unavailable, a brown primer can be used as an alternative.
Secondary Coat: Airbrush Ionrach Skin over the model. If the paint speckles, add more thinner to achieve a smooth finish. Focus on armour panels, allowing some brown to show in recesses for depth.
Highlighting: Use Vallejo Pure White, thinned more heavily than the previous layers, to highlight areas such as the head, chest, and shoulder pads. Be selective, as the right shoulder pad will be painted green later.
Metallic Parts: Paint all metal parts with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour. For better control and to prevent the paint from flowing into unwanted areas, let it thicken slightly in a palette before use.
Black Areas: Use a black contrast paint to cover areas like the shoulder pad. This can be done with a large brush for speed and efficiency. A couple of coats may be needed for full coverage.
Green Shoulder Pad: Airbrush Iosen Green onto the left shoulder pad, gradually adding Yriel Yellow to the mix for a bright front highlight, creating a transition from bright to dark.
Shading: Saturate the model with Mortarion Grime shade using a large brush. Ensure an even coat and avoid pooling. The shade will naturally darken recesses and enhance details.
Chipping Effect: Apply Rhinox Hide to simulate chips and wear on the armour. Focus on edges and surfaces that would naturally see wear and tear. This step adds realism to the model.
Highlighting Chips: Using Vallejo Pure White, highlight the lower edges of the chips to create a three-dimensional effect. This step is particularly effective in making the chipping stand out.
Weapon Details: Highlight the gun with Neutral Grey by Vallejo, focusing on upward-facing edges and adding scratches for realism. This adds contrast and depth to the weapon.
Glowing Red Eyes: Start with Mephiston Red, followed by Troll Slayer Orange, and then highlight with Yriel Yellow. Finish with a small dot of Pure White in the centre for a glowing effect.
Final Touches: Apply light highlights of Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour on metallic surfaces for extra sheen. Use Forge World Dark Sand weathering powder on the feet for a dusty look.
Tips for Success:
Ensure smooth transitions when airbrushing by adjusting paint consistency.
Use the chipping technique to add character and age to the model.
Focus on focal points like the head and chest for your brightest highlights.
Experiment with the thickness of your paint for different effects; thicker paint can achieve sharper lines and highlights.
Be mindful of the lore and aesthetic of the Death Guard when choosing colours, especially for details like the eye lenses.
Remember, the goal is to create a visually striking model that embodies the rugged and corroded nature of the Death Guard.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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This video tutorial shows How to Paint a Legio Fureans Reaver (Tiger Eyes) from the Adeptus Titanicus game. I’ve done it as a gaming piece, but I’ll be doing a Warlord for a potential Golden Demon entry.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Paints from Games Workshop (Yriel Yellow, Flash Gitz Yellow, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Magos Purple Contrast, Technical Stormshield, Corvus Black, Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide), Vallejo (Dark Sea Grey, German Grey, Black, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Chrome, Ice Yellow, White), and Scale 75 (Necro Gold).
Oil Colours: Winsor and Newton’s Sansodor mineral spirit, Black, and Burnt Sienna.
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black.
Airbrush: Infinity CR Plus, set at about 30-35 PSI.
Additional Tools: Mixing cups, a selection of brushes and a magnifying headset.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Priming: Start with a base coat of black primer.
Airbrushing the Carapace:
Dilute Yriel Yellow with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Apply several coats for a solid finish.
Optionally, start with a base of XV-88 for a quicker yellow hue.
Add depth with Mournfang Brown in recessed areas.
Reapply Yriel Yellow for a smooth blend.
Highlight the edges with Flash Gitz Yellow.
Mix a bit of Mournfang Brown with Yriel Yellow for a gentler transition.
Trim Painting:
Apply Necro Gold, thinned down to about a 50/50 mix with water.
Add depth with a wash of Aggrex Earthshade.
Detailing with Black Flames:
Hand-paint black flames using Model Color Black. Start with simple S-curves, then refine.
Applying Decals:
Apply a gloss varnish, then the decals with microset.
Seal with matt varnish after drying.
Oil Weathering:
Apply Burnt Sienna oil paint for realistic streaking effects.
Scratches and Dents:
Use Rhinox Hide for scratches, followed by Ice Yellow on the lower edges for a 3D effect.
Highlighting and Shading Trim:
Reapply Necro Gold, then blend with Vallejo Chrome for brighter highlights.
Use Wild Wood contrast paint for shading.
Main Structure Painting:
Stipple on Burnt Iron metallic colour.
Add depth with a Magos Purple wash, followed by a diluted Mournfang Brown wash.
Painting the Head and Lenses:
Start with a black base, then layer up highlights with German Grey and Dark Sea Grey.
Glaze over with Corvus Black to tone down and blend highlights.
Paint the lenses with Sotek Green and white highlights.
Finishing Touches:
Apply final weathering, varnishing, and any additional detailing as needed.
Richard’s Pro Tips:
Patience is key when airbrushing. Build up the layers gently for a more professional finish.
Experiment with brush strokes and blending to achieve your desired effect.
Each miniature is a canvas for creativity – don’t be afraid to add your own flair!
Always thin your paints for smoother application and a more refined look.
Take breaks! Detail work can be taxing on the eyes and hands.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in Imperial First colours from the new Horus Heresy boxed game. Many of you were asking for help painting a model in this style without using an airbrush or oils – so here he is!
Video: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step by Step Guide: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought
Initial Preparation
Begin with assembling the Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought. Keep arms and backpack separate for easier painting. Prime your Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in black to set the stage for the upcoming colours.
Base Coating with Mournfang Brown Start with Mournfang Brown, heavily diluted with water for a translucent effect. Using a large brush, apply the paint in a stippling motion. This technique creates a mottled, weathered look on the model. Multiple thin coats are needed, around three or four, to achieve the desired coverage.
Creating Highlights Mix P3 Morrow White (or any available white paint) with Mournfang Brown. This mixture is used for creating highlights on the model. Apply with a smaller dry brush for more controlled and precise placement of highlights, especially on areas like the chest and upper stomach.
Adding Layers and Textures Progress with the painting by layering and texturing the model. Focus on building up colours gradually. Use the stippling method to apply these layers, which enhances the weathered and battle-worn appearance.
Incorporating Uriel Yellow Uriel Yellow, diluted in a similar fashion to Mournfang Brown, is used next. It’s important to keep the brush damp, not wet, to avoid the paint running. Apply in a dabbing motion, focusing on areas where light naturally falls. This stage is crucial for developing the yellow hue characteristic of the Imperial Fist.
Glazing and Fine Details Move to glazing layers using Uriel Yellow. This involves a thinner consistency and focuses on the model’s focal points like the head and chest. Pay attention to edges and hard lines, using a fine brush for precise application.
Weathering and Final Touches For weathering effects, employ Rhinox Hide for chipping and damage marks. Apply these strategically across the model to create a realistic battle-damaged effect. Focus on edges and areas likely to receive wear.
Enhancing Eyes and Metal Details Sotek Green is used for the eyes, creating a layered effect with a transition from green-blue to pure white. For metal parts, use Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold and Copper, applying carefully due to their fluid nature.
Applying Transfers and Final Varnishing After applying decals or transfers, coat them with gloss varnish to blend them seamlessly into the model. Use Micro Set for applying and setting the transfers.
Base Details Finish by creating a cohesive base using Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Apply multiple layers, interspersed with matte varnish, to build up a textured, grimy effect that complements your Contemptor Dreadnought
Show it off!
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists in Beakie armour, from the Horus Heresy.
Video – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral GreyWindsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust ManifoldP3: Morrow White (Any White will do).
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00.
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists
Base Coating with Mournfang BrownBegin by airbrushing or hand painting Mournfang Brown onto the miniatures, creating a solid base for subsequent layers.
Highlight Placement Lighten Mournfang Brown with a bit of white, applying it to areas of natural highlights like upward-facing surfaces.
Applying Yriel Yellow Over the pre-shaded miniatures, apply thinned Yriel Yellow, bringing out the Imperial Fists’ iconic yellow.
Detailing with Mephiston Red Use Mephiston Red for the sergeant’s red head stripe, distinguishing the squad leader.
Eyes and Weapons Paint eyes and weapon details black, setting the stage for later detailing.
Metallic Elements Apply Vallejo Metal Exhaust Manifold to metallic areas, focusing on weapon coils and armour studs.
Gloss Varnishing for Decals Apply a coat of gloss varnish over the miniatures to smooth the surface for decal application.
Decal Application Carefully apply Imperial Fist decals, using microset for proper adherence and fit.
Oil Washes for Depth Create a wash with Burnt Sienna, Black, and Sansodor mineral spirit, enhancing depth and worn appearance.
Matte Varnishing After the oil wash dries, apply a coat of matte varnish to seal previous layers and prepare for final detailing.
Enhancing Yellow Highlights Revisit yellow areas with thinned-down Yriel Yellow, creating bright focal points.
Eyes and Plasma Effect Create glowing effects with Sotek Green mixed with white, applying to eyes and plasma details.
Weathering with Rhinox Hide Add a battle-worn effect using Rhinox Hide for scratches and chips across the armour.
Final Touches Add highlights to the red plume, enhance yellow details, and complete any final touches.
Base Decoration Decorate the base with sand, PVA glue, Agrax Earthshade, and weathering powder for a realistic ground effect.
Final Sealing Seal the model with a final layer of matte varnish to protect your work.
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As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished the how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists tutorial, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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This video shows how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee Triskele Weapon to a high level tabletop standard.
The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon (the ‘triskele’ weapon) will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights.
Materials Needed
Cybrite Green (Games Workshop)
Black (Vallejo Model Colour)
Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop)
Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop)
Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white)
A fine brush
A wet palette
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM
Base Layer: Firstly, coat the triskele weapon in black, creating a pristine base.
Green Layering:
Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the triskele weaponless exposed to light.
Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions.
Highlight Application:
Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the triskele weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes.
Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint.
Texture via Stippling:
With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity.
Reflections Definition:
Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts.
Finalising Highlights:
Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect.
Gemstone Painting:
For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection.
For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights.
Refinement and Adjustment:
If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred.
Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance on the triskele weapon.
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This video shows you how to paint an Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel (Astra Militarium), which Games Workshop sent me as part of the new Army Box.
Quick Jump to:
Video Tutorial: How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
Paints Used
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
Initial Setup
Airbrushing the Base Coat
Enhancing Highlights
Weathering and Details
Missile and OSL (Object Source Lighting)
Final Touches and Highlights
Metal Work and Final Weathering
Video Tutorial: How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Daemonette Hide, Sotek Green, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green Vallejo: Black, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel
Initial Setup
Model Assembly: This Sentinel from the Imperial Guard Astra Militarum Army box can be built in various ways. Our focus is on the armored version with a plasma cannon and hunter-killer missile. The weapons aren’t glued for easier painting.
Airbrushing the Base Coat
Airbrush Settings: Use a 0.4 needle with PSI around 30. Thin ‘Daemonette Hide’ paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner.
Application Technique: Aim for dramatic lighting with stronger opacity on the front cabin, top left, fading towards bottom right. Ensure smooth transitions, but don’t worry too much about perfection as weathering will cover minor flaws.
Enhancing Highlights
Mixing for Highlights: Gradually mix ‘Morrow White’ into the ‘Daemonette Hide’ mixture for highlighting, focusing on the dramatic light effect.
Highlighting Method: Create a realistic lighting effect, brighter on the top left of each section.
Weathering and Details
Base Coating Metal Areas: Apply ‘Burnt Iron’ Vallejo metal color on metal parts and ‘Viking Gold’ from Scale 75 on decorations like aquilas.
Weathering: Use ‘Mournfang Brown’ for rust-style weathering. Apply ‘Cyberite Green’ on gold areas for a Verdigris effect.
Missile and OSL (Object Source Lighting)
Missile Painting: Originally red, but later changed to black for better contrast with the OSL.
OSL Technique: Start with ‘Mephiston Red’ for the plasma glow, then layer with ‘Troll Slayer Orange’ and ‘Yriel Yellow’ for intensity.
Final Touches and Highlights
Adding Details: Paint lenses using a progression from ‘Sotek Green’ mixed with white for a glowing effect.
Armor Panel Highlights: Use the brightest highlight mix used earlier, focusing on the top left areas and incorporating into scratches for a realistic effect.
Metal Work and Final Weathering
Metallic Highlights: Reapply ‘Burnt Iron’ on metal parts for brighter edges.
Final Weathering: Add rust effects with thinned down ‘Rhinox Hide’ and ‘Troll Slayer Orange’, focusing on edges and recesses.
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This video and step by step guide shows you how to paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank, blending traditional brushwork with optional airbrush techniques, ensuring a deeply weathered, battle-hardened appearance. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting, this tutorial should and leave you with a striking addition to your Death Guard army.
Quick Jump to:
Video: How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile TankPaints UsedStep-by-Step GuidePreparation and PrimingStippling the Base LayersBuilding LayersAirbrushing (Optional)Detailing and WeatheringChipping EffectLenses and Vision SlitsFinal Weathering
Video: How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: XV-88, Hobgrot Hide, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Athonian Camoshade Vallejo: Black, Ice Yellow, Burnt Iron Metal Colour P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green
Step-by-Step Guide
Preparation and Priming
Model Assembly: Assemble the Scorpius missile tank but leave the missile pods and top unglued for ease of painting.
Priming: Prime the model black. For an easier approach, consider starting with a brown primer.
Stippling the Base Layers
Stippling Technique: Use a large dry brush, like Artist Opus, to stipple on the paint. Start with a color like XV-88 from Games Workshop, diluted to about 50% with water.
Application: Ensure the stippled paint reaches recesses but expect some natural variation in tone. Apply two coats for adequate coverage
Building Layers
Lightening the Base: Apply successive lighter shades of brown and bone colors (like Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone), each time covering a smaller area to create a natural, textured fade from dark to light.
Focus on Raised Areas: With each lighter layer, focus more on the raised areas, leaving recesses darker for contrast.
Airbrushing (Optional)
Airbrush Use: If desired, use an airbrush for a smoother finish on the lower two-thirds of the tank. Start with a light brown and gradually transition to white for a clean look.
Detailing and Weathering
Contrast Shading: Use Darkoath Flesh contrast paint mixed with contrast medium for shading. Apply it carefully, focusing on recesses and high contrast areas.
Metallic Parts: Paint all metal areas with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour and then apply Athonian Camoshade for shading.
Chipping Effect
Chipping Technique: Use Rhinox Hide to create chips and scratches, focusing on edges and surfaces where wear is likely.
Highlighting Chips: For added depth, highlight the lower edges of each chip with a lighter color like P3 Morrow White.
Lenses and Vision Slits
Painting Lenses: Start with a base color like Iosen Green, then add layers of progressively lighter shades, focusing on creating a reflective effect.
Vision Slits: Begin with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Troll Slayer Orange and Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect.
Final Weathering
Streaking: Create streaks with a heavily diluted brown paint, using vertical strokes for a natural rain-streaked effect.
Weathering Powder: Apply dark sand weathering powder mixed with matte varnish for a realistic, powdery finish on lower sections.
More Tank Tutorials!
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This free video shows the Plastic Leviathan Dreadnought from Games Workshop and shows how to paint it using Imperial Fist Contrast paint and oil paint.
Video: How to Paint the Leviathan Dreadnought
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints Used:
Airbrush with a 0.4 needle
Paints from Games Workshop (GW), Vallejo, Winsor and Newton, and P3
Winsor and Newton Sansodoor mineral spirit
Vallejo Mecha Varnish (Gloss and Matt)
Abteilung 502 Desert and Sand Pigment set
Micro Set for decals
Various brushes, including a small dry brush and a size 2 brush
Water jar and wet palette
Paints:
GW: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Dark Blue Pale, Exhaust Manifold, Chrome
Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (oil paint), Black
P3: Morrow White
Step by Step Guide to Painting the Leviathan Dreadnought
1. Base Coating:
Start by airbrushing Mournfang Brown on all armor panels. Thin the paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner for better flow. Airbrush at around 30 PSI.
2. Adding Highlights:
Mix some P3 Morrow White into the Mournfang Brown along with a bit more thinner. Airbrush areas you want to appear brighter. This will affect the final yellow hue after applying Imperial Fist contrast paint. Precision is key for this step.
3. Final Highlights:
Use P3 Morrow White (thinned) for the last layer of highlights. Aim for a smooth application, although some speckling is tolerable as the contrast paint will cover minor imperfections.
4. Applying Contrast Paint:
Apply Imperial Fist Contrast paint over the armor. This will tie in all the layers and give a vibrant yellow finish.
5. Painting Black Areas:
Start with Abaddon Black, gradually adding small amounts of white and thinner for highlights. Focus on curved areas for a natural lighting effect.
6. Metallic Sections:
Paint all metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold. Apply it directly without undercoating in black to save time.
7. Adding Decals and Chipping:
Apply decals using Micro Set on gloss-varnished areas. Then, paint chipping using Rhinox Hide. Be mindful of the order; it’s easier to apply yellow glazes before adding decals and chipping.
8. Weathering with Oils:
Use Burnt Sienna oil paint for streaking effects. Apply the paint in blobs and streak down using a brush dampened with mineral spirits.
For pin washing, use a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black thinned with mineral spirits. Focus on recesses and rivets.
9. Painting the Head:
Airbrush the head with Mephiston Red. Freehand a stripe using Vallejo Dark Blue Pale mixed with white. Highlight the red areas with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red.
10. Eye Lenses:
Paint the lenses with Sotek Green, followed by a mix of Sotek Green and white for highlights.
11. Glazing Yellow Highlights:
Use a glaze of Yriel Yellow mixed with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part paint) for bright highlights on the top of shoulders and other upward-facing surfaces.
12. Highlighting Chips:
Mix Yriel Yellow with white and highlight the lower edges of chips. This is time-consuming but adds depth.
13. Claw and Exhaust Weathering:
Dry brush the claw using a mix of Vallejo Chrome and Exhaust Manifold. Focus on the blade edges.
Apply the same mix to the exhaust sections.
14. Applying Weathering Powder:
Use the Abteilung 502 Desert and Sand Pigment set for the base and lower parts of the Leviathan Dreadnought.
15. Sealing with Varnish:
Finish by covering the entire model with Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish for a uniform and protected finish on your Leviathan Dreadnought.
More Free Video Tutorials
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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I’m excited to share my journey of painting the Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, a majestic model sent to me by Games Workshop. My focus is to highlight the crucial role of airbrushing in bringing this titan to life with the vibrant colours of the Legio Astorum, also known as the Warp Runners.
Watch the Video
The Importance of Airbrushing: Airbrushing is a game-changer in miniature painting, offering unparalleled smoothness and efficiency. It’s especially valuable when painting large models like the Iconoclast Titan, where traditional brushing might fall short. The fluidity of airbrush paints, like Vallejo’s Metal Color series, is perfect for both airbrushing and regular brushwork.
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black
Initial Steps: Before diving into painting, it’s essential to prepare the model. I left off the armor plates of the titan to separately paint the skeleton with metallic colours and the armor panels with the distinctive Warp Runner scheme.
Airbrushing Techniques:
Base Coating: Starting with Vallejo’s Burnt Iron, I applied the base coat to the skeleton. Despite being formulated for airbrushing, its fluid nature worked well with a large, soft brush for a non-textured finish.
Detailing with Copper: For the hips, I used Games Workshop’s metallic colour, applying it straight from the pot. This step required multiple thin coats for a consistent finish.
Creating Verdigris Effects: I used oil paints to simulate the verdigris effect on the copper parts. Stippling the paint onto the model, I focused on crevices and rivets, where oxidation naturally occurs.
Oil Washes: An overall wash of oil paints, mixed with spirits, added depth to the metallic parts. This technique requires patience, as it’s essential to allow the wash to dry completely, typically 24 hours.
Highlighting with Chrome: Vallejo’s Chrome, another airbrush-focused paint, was used for highlights. Its liquid consistency demanded careful application to avoid flooding recessed areas.
Colouring the Armor Panels: The real challenge and joy of airbrushing came alive while painting the armor panels. I started with Night Lords Blue, followed by Macragge Blue, both thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner. The process involved covering entire panels with the darker blue, then focusing on upper sections and curves for the lighter blue, creating a pleasing visual gradient.
Stripe and Flame Patterns: For detailed patterns like stripes and flames, I relied on masking techniques and freehand painting. Tamiya tape helped in creating crisp, clean lines for stripes, while freehanding flames allowed for a more organic and fitting look on the armor panels.
Applying Decals and Weathering: After the base colours and patterns, I applied decals for additional detailing. This step required a steady hand and patience, especially when dealing with folded decals. Weathering was achieved with oil paints, enhancing the realism of the titan.
Final Touches: Matte varnishing the model brought all elements together, providing a uniform look and protecting the paint job. For the trim, I chose to paint it with Scale 75’s Necro Gold, followed by weathering and sealing with a matte varnish.
Airbrushing the Iconoclast Titan was a rewarding experience, showcasing the versatility and efficiency of this painting method. The ability to layer colours, create gradients, and apply washes and weathering with ease made airbrushing an indispensable tool in my painting arsenal. Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or a beginner, incorporating airbrushing into your miniature painting can elevate your models to new heights.
More Free Video Tutorials
More free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray