In this tutorial, we’re diving into the wonderfully grim world of Nurgle as we explore how to bring the Rotbringer Sorcerer from Age of Sigmar to life with vivid detail. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will equip you with techniques and tips to get going.

Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part One:

Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part Two

Materials and Paints

• Primer: Badger’s Ultimate Primer Black
• Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Skeleton Horde Contrast
• Vallejo Paints: Basalt Grey, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (optional)
• P3 Paints: Morrow White

Step-by-Step Guide to the Rotbringer Sorceror:

1. Preparation and Priming: Fully assemble your Rotbringer Sorcerer and prime it with a black primer. For easier access to intricate areas, consider leaving the arm that holds the scythe detached during priming.
2. Base Coating: Apply base coats using Mournfang Brown for wooden elements and Basalt Grey for the cloak and scythe blade. Bugman’s Glow is ideal for flesh areas. Apply these base coats roughly, aiming for coverage rather than precision.
3. Skin Tones: Enhance skin areas with Bugman’s Glow, providing a rosy, dark flesh tone. Progress with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights, ensuring to thin your paints for a smooth finish.
4. Wood and Metal Detailing: Utilise Balor Brown for initial wood highlights, transitioning to Mournfang Brown for added depth. For metallic areas like the scythe blade, start with Rhinox Hide, building up to Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights. Create rust effects using Trollslayer Orange.
5. Shading: Employ Corvus Black, adequately thinned, to add depth through shading across the model, focusing on recesses and shadowed areas.
6. Detail Enhancement: Use Screaming Skull for edge highlights and detail work on scrolls and similar features. Maintain thin paint layers for refinement.
7. Textures and Freehand Elements: Incorporate freehand elements like Nurgle symbols using Mephiston Red. Apply textures such as rust and wood grain using stippling techniques with Trollslayer Orange for rust and Morghast Bone for wood grain.
8. Verdigris Effect: On copper elements, create a verdigris effect with Sotek Green mixed with white. Apply this judiciously to areas that would naturally show oxidation, steering clear of bright highlights.
9. Candle Flames: Paint candle flames using Yriel Yellow, adding Trollslayer Orange to the tips. Blend these colours for a realistic flame appearance.
10. Model Basing: Prepare a base that complements the model, using a mix of sand, poly filler, and paint it with XV-88, Morghast Bone, and weathering powder. Introduce grass patches for added realism.
11. Final Adjustments: Revisit the Rotbringer Sorcerer for any last highlights or corrections. Use a precise brush for fine details, ensuring the paint consistency is suitable.
12. Model Sealing: Once satisfied with the painting, apply a matte varnish to protect your work.

Tips:

• Thin your paints for smoother layers and better control.
• Utilise an older brush for base coating and a newer, finer brush for detailed work.
• Regularly assess your work from a distance for adjustments.
• Experiment with light placement for dynamic highlighting and shadowing effects on your Rotbringer Sorceror.
• Initial layers don’t need perfection as they will be layered over with more detail.

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Welcome to my guide for painting the leader of the Grandfather’s Gardeners from Warhammer Underworlds. This step-by-step breakdown follows the techniques and colour choices used in the video tutorial, featuring a mix of Games Workshop and AK 3rd Gen paints to achieve a grimy, textured look. Let’s dive into painting this delightfully disgusting Plaguebearer with its iconic honey pot. Video: How to Paint Grandfather’s Gardeners from Warhammer Underworlds Materials and Paints Used Paints This tutorial features a mix of AK 3rd Gen and Games Workshop paints to achieve the grimy, textured look of the Plaguebearer. Here’s the full list: AK 3rd Gen Paints: Very Dark Brown Dark Brown Olive Green Golden Olive Light Brown Golden Brown Old Rose Volcanic Yellow Ice Yellow Anthracite Grey Dark Sea Grey Sky Grey White Black Games Workshop Paints: Rhinox Hide Morghast Bone Materials Brushes: Size 1 brush (recommended: Artis Opus or equivalent) Size 0 and 00 detail brushes for fine work Worn-tip brush for textured application Palette: Wet palette to keep paints workable and blends consistent Additional Tools: Microfiber cloth or kitchen roll for brush wiping Step by Step Guide : How to Paint Grandfather’s Gardeners from Warhammer Underworlds 1. Preparing the Basecoat Mix: Combine AK Very Dark Brown and Olive Green (50/50 mix). This will be your base colour. Apply: Use a larger brush (size 1 recommended) to block in the entire model. Don’t worry about a smooth finish; rough, textured strokes enhance the Nurgle aesthetic. Dry: Let the basecoat dry, observing the natural tonal shift as it lightens slightly. 2. Building Shadows and Depth Darken: Use AK Very Dark Brown straight from the tube, slightly diluted (50/50 paint-to-water ratio). Apply this as a glaze to recesses and shadowed areas, focusing on undercuts and folds in the skin. Blend: Use the initial basecoat mix (Very Dark Brown + Olive Green) to soften transitions where shadows meet midtones. 3. Highlighting the Skin Midtones: Apply Olive Green to raised areas, such as muscles, stretched skin, and prominent ridges. First Highlights: Introduce AK Golden Olive to further brighten raised details. Use sparing, scratchy strokes to maintain a grimy texture. Fine Highlights: Mix Golden Olive with AK Old Rose for subtle pinkish highlights, focusing on high points like the face, chest, and pot edges. 4. Detailing the Honey Basecoat: Use AK Light Brown to cover the honey sections entirely. Apply a couple of thin coats for smooth coverage. Ripples: Sketch ripple effects with AK Golden Brown. Use a small detail brush (size 00) to create irregular, wavy lines. Highlights: Transition with AK Volcanic Yellow and then Ice Yellow for shine spots. Place the highlights on the edges of the ripples and add small white dots for the highest contrast points. Shadows: Glaze with a mix of Light Brown and Dark Brown for shadowed ripples at the edges and underside of the honey. 5. Painting the Pot Basecoat: Start with AK Anthracite Grey for a dark, neutral foundation. Midtones: Layer AK Dark Sea Grey on raised edges and forward-facing surfaces. Highlights: Use Sky Grey to pick out rim details and add subtle scratches for texture. Final Touches: Apply a bounce highlight using the skin base mix (Very Dark Brown + Olive Green) on areas where the pot meets the skin. 6. Tackling the Horn Base Layers: Basecoat with AK Dark Brown, followed by Light Brown for initial highlights. Texture Work: Paint fine parallel lines with AK Morghast Bone, gradually increasing in precision as you build up texture. Final Highlights: Use AK Old Rose sparingly to create sharp highlights on the horn’s edges. 7. Defining the Eye Base Colour: Use AK Golden Brown to block out the eye shape. Iris and Shine: Add a semicircular highlight with AK Ice Yellow, leaving a small white dot for the reflective shine. Adjust: If necessary, glaze with Golden Brown to soften transitions and blend the eye into the surrounding skin. 8. Painting the Tongue Basecoat: Apply AK Dark Brown to the tongue. Highlights: Use a progression of AK Old Rose mixes (Dark Brown + Old Rose, then pure Old Rose) to create a textured, fleshy appearance. Details: Highlight raised areas with fine parallel lines for a natural, organic look. 9. Finishing Details Teeth: Basecoat with AK Golden Brown, followed by subtle highlights using AK Morghast Bone or Ice Yellow. Glaze back with Golden Brown if the teeth appear too bright. Gross Effects: Stipple AK Golden Brown around the mouth to create a “honey breath” effect, blending with Dark Brown for depth. 10. Evaluating and Enhancing Balance: Assess the model for consistency, ensuring focal points (head, honey pot) are brightest and most detailed. Optional Glazes: Use thinned mixes of base colours to smooth transitions and unify tones. Finishing Touches: Revisit any areas needing more contrast or definition, particularly the honey and stretched skin. Pro Tips for Painting the Plaguebearer Embrace the ImperfectionsNurgle models thrive on texture! Don’t stress about smooth, clean layers—rougher, scratchy strokes add to the grimy, decayed aesthetic. This is especially true when working on areas like the skin or pot. Use Paint Thickness to Your Advantage Matte Paints (like AK 3rd Gen) dry with a softer, flatter finish that can enhance gritty textures. Experiment with slightly thicker paint mixes for stronger, sharper transitions, or thin them down into glazes to smooth details. The Magic of Micro GlazingWhen blending highlights or tidying imperfections, create “micro glazes” by diluting your paint heavily (3–5 parts water to 1 part paint). Use these in small, controlled areas to soften transitions without overpainting. Strategic Use of GlazingMatte paints, like the AK range, can dry in ways that look chalky if you’re not careful. Using slightly satin-finish paints like Games Workshop’s range for glazes can smooth transitions and add subtle depth. Plan Ahead with Sub-AssembliesFor tricky areas like the honey pot (where the tongue gets in the way), consider leaving parts unassembled. Keeping the head separate can make detailed work much easier! Highlight Placement Tips Focus your brightest highlights on forward-facing areas to create a natural focal point for the model. Even with complex lighting (like top-left directional light), ensure the key areas facing the viewer remain the most prominent to avoid flattening the model. Texture for DifferentiationUse different painting techniques to differentiate surfaces: Skin: Rough, layered textures. Horn: Thin, fine lines to suggest grain and weathering. Honey: Smooth, glossy finishes with controlled highlights for that viscous, liquid effect. Don’t Fear Colour SubstitutionsIf you don’t have the exact colours listed, use similar ones or mix your own. Many tones in this tutorial (e.g., Golden Olive, Ice Yellow) can be replicated with basic mixes of green, yellow, and white. Bounce Highlights Add RealismAdding a subtle “bounce highlight” where objects interact (e.g., green reflected on the bottom of the pot where it meets the skin) helps tie the model together and creates a cohesive look. Speed vs. Detail Balance If you’re painting for tabletop use, focus detail and brightness on key focal points (head, chest, honey pot). For display models, invest extra time on subtle highlights and shading even in shadowed areas for a more polished look. Fun Nurgle-Specific Tip Remember, this is Nurgle—lean into the gross! Adding playful touches like honey drips on the tongue or even experimenting with small colour variations for boils and lesions can bring a unique, narrative flair to your model. Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

A series on how to paint a Nurgle Sorcerer from the Death Guard. It will be painted in preparation for Golden Demon! Quick Jump to: Bellyplate Plaguecaster Head Rotten BellyLeg Armour NMM Bronze Trim Nurgle Ribbons and Text Smoke and Flies How to Paint a Nurgle Sorcerer: Part One – Belly Plate In this video you will learn how to paint the belly plate with texture and corruption. Materials Needed: Nurgle Sorcerer Miniature from the Spaceman Hero Set Brushes: Various sizes, including a size two for broad strokes and size zero zero for details Paints (Games Workshop): Death Guard Green, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Dark Reaper, Mournfang Brown Paint (P3): Morrow White Step 1: Base Coating Start by applying a base coat of Death Guard Green, thinned with about one and a half parts water to one part paint, using a size two brush for a smooth, thin layer. Add warmth to the colour with a layer of Balor Brown, applying it in a similar manner to maintain texture. Step 2: Building Texture Gradually build up the texture using Morghast Bone. Focus on creating a stippling effect, allowing the green to show through. This creates a transition and adds depth to the plate. Continue to refine the texture, making the marks finer as you move towards the front of the belly plate, where the light would be strongest. Step 3: Shadow and Highlight Paint a distinct line of Dark Reaper down the middle of the belly plate, creating a shadow effect. This divides the plate visually, with a lighter left side and a darker right side. Progressively lighten the left side of the belly plate, moving up through Ushabti Bone to Screaming Skull, and finally to Morrow White for the brightest highlights. Step 4: Detailing and Corruption Using Dark Reaper, begin to add corruption effects. Look for shapes in the texture and expand them into blob-like, corrupt markings. Over these Dark Reaper blobs, lightly stipple with Morghast Bone to create a sense of corruption protruding from the armour. For areas that require softer transitions or less intensity, mix Death Guard Green with Morghast Bone for a subtler effect. Step 5: Refinement and Contrast Continuously refine the texture and highlights, ensuring the lightest points are at the front of the belly plate. Add Mephiston Red, thinned heavily, around the edges of the belly plate for a corrupted, wound-like appearance. Blend this in carefully to maintain the integrity of the armour texture. Step 6: Final Touches Add finishing touches, such as more precise highlights using Morrow White, especially along the top edges and where the light would naturally be strongest. Adjust the texture and shading as needed to create a balanced, cohesive look that conveys both corruption and the Nurgle aesthetic. How to Paint a Nurgle Sorcerer: Part Two – NMM Bronze Trim with Verdigris The video focuses on the bronze NMM trim and verdigris weathering. Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Fine detail brushes (sizes 00 and 2 recommended) Steps: 1. Base Layer Paint: Mournfang Brown Application: Apply a base layer of Mournfang Brown over the areas you want to paint the bronze trim. This layer doesn’t have to be perfectly even; it serves as a foundation. 2. First Highlights Paint: XV-88 Application: Start applying XV-88 to highlight the raised areas. These highlights should be broad at this stage, as we’ll refine them later. 3. Second Highlights Paint: Balor Brown Application: Now, apply Balor Brown to enhance the highlights. Focus on the top edges and areas where light naturally hits. 4. Mixed Highlights Paint: Mix of Balor Brown and Ice Yellow Application: Mix Balor Brown with a small amount of Ice Yellow to create a lighter shade. Apply this to the highest points of the highlighted areas for a more intense shine. 5. Brightest Highlights Paint: P3 Morrow White Application: Using Morrow White, apply the brightest highlights. These should be on the most raised edges where the light would be strongest. 6. Shading Paints: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Application: Use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to add shadows and depth. Focus on recessed areas and where the trim meets other parts of the model. 7. Verdigris Effect Base Paint: Mix of Sybarite Green and a tiny bit of Sotek Green Application: Thin this mix with water (approx. 2:1 ratio of water to paint) and apply it selectively in recesses and crevices for a weathered look. 8. Lighter Verdigris Paint: Sybarite Green mixed with a bit of white Application: Lighten the verdigris effect in some areas for variation. Remember, less is more – don’t cover all the verdigris base layer. 9. Final Adjustments Technique: Glazing and Smoothing Application: If necessary, use a glazing technique with the lighter colours to smooth out transitions and add final touches to the highlights. 10. Clean Up Action: Tidy any overspill or mistakes with appropriate base colours. Tips: Consistency: Keep your paint at the right consistency. For NMM, a slightly thicker mix is preferred for stronger colours, but ensure it’s still flowable. Lighting: Pay attention to the overall lighting of your model. Highlights should be consistent with the light source. Brush Care: Be mindful of your brushes. Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes. Patience: Take your time with each step, and let layers dry before applying the next. How to Paint a Nurgle Sorcerer: Part Three – Plaguecaster Head How to paint the head, which includes the red hood and chain mask. Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Khorne Red, Mephiston Red, Bugman’s Glow, Mournfang Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Sotek Green Vallejo: Black P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 00 and 2 Artist Opus Brushes Palette: For mixing and diluting paints Water pot Steps: 1. Base Colour for the Hood Paint: Mix of Khorne Red and Black Application: Apply a base layer of this mix to the hood. Ensure no pure Khorne Red is used; the mix should always include black to desaturate the colour. 2. Adding Highlights Paints: Various mixes of Khorne Red with Black and White Application: Create a gradient of shades by mixing Khorne Red with varying amounts of Black and White. Use these mixes to highlight the hood, focusing on the raised areas and textures. 3. Texturing the Hood Technique: Texture Painting Application: With a size 00 brush, apply textures using the lighter shades. Focus on creating a worn and weathered look. Balance the textures; don’t overdo them. 4. Chain Mask Detailing Paint: Neutral Grey and White Application: Start with Neutral Grey to pick out the chain links. Progressively add White to the mix for highlighting, focusing on the lower edges and curves of each chain link. 5. Glazing the Hood Paint: Mephiston Red Application: Dilute Mephiston Red significantly (approx. 4:1 water to paint ratio). Use this glaze to unify the hood’s colour, applying it more in the shadows and less on the highlights. 6. Skin Tones Paint: Bugman’s Glow with Black and Grey Application: For the skin, start with Bugman’s Glow mixed with Black and Grey to desaturate. Add White for highlights, focusing on chin, lips, and facial details. 7. Worm and Pustules Paint: Sotek Green, Mournfang Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Ice Yellow Application: Paint the worm coming out of the head in Sotek Green. For pustules, use Mournfang Brown for the base, add Trollslayer Orange for mid-tones, and highlight with Ice Yellow. 8. Final Adjustments Action: Make any necessary tweaks to ensure all elements are coherent and well-blended. Tips: Dilution is Key: Ensure paints are correctly diluted, especially lighter colours, to avoid a chalky texture. Layering: Build up the highlights gradually, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. Focus on Details: Spend time on the head as it’s a focal point, especially for a competition piece like Golden Demon. Brush Care: Use newer, sharper brushes for fine details and textures, saving older brushes for broader strokes and glazing. How to Paint a Nurgle Sorcerer: Part Four – Nurgle Ribbons and Text Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Neutral Grey Kimera Colours: Black Brushes: Size 00 and 3 S (Standard) and M (Miniature) Brushes Palette: For mixing paints Water pot Steps: 1. Base Layer Paint: XV-88 Application: Start by applying XV-88 as a base layer on the ribbons. Use a size 3 S brush for quick coverage, being careful not to touch the paint while it’s wet to avoid patchiness. 2. Adding Depth Paint: Morghast Bone Application: Apply Morghast Bone, focusing on the upward-facing curves and leaving recesses and downward-facing sections in the darker base colour. This step starts to bring out the ribbon’s flow and texture. 3. Highlighting Paint: Screaming Skull Application: Now switch to a size 00 brush and use Screaming Skull to pick out the raised details and edges. This lighter colour enhances the texture and gives the ribbons more dimension. 4. Freehand Detailing Paint: Mephiston Red Application: Using the size 00 brush, add Nurgle symbols and letters as freehand details. These should be evenly spaced and varied in size for a more natural look. Remember, these don’t need to be perfect as they’re meant to mimic hand-drawn symbols. 5. Text Simulation Paint: Mephiston Red Application: Create a text effect using small dots and dashes with Mephiston Red. This simulates handwriting and adds intricate detail to the ribbons. Aim for varied mark-making to avoid a repetitive pattern. 6. Weathering and Shading Paint: Neutral Grey and Rhinox Hide Application: Thin down Neutral Grey and Rhinox Hide for glazing. Apply Neutral Grey to shadows and Rhinox Hide to recesses and edges for a dirty, weathered look. 7. Final Touches Paint: Black (Kimera Colours) Application: Finally, use thinned black paint to refine the freehand details and text. This step enhances contrast and makes the red details stand out more effectively against the ribbon’s base colour. Tips: Consistency: Ensure the right consistency of paint for detailed work, especially for the text. It should flow easily but not be too runny. Brush Angle: Adjust the brush angle according to the ribbon’s curvature to maintain consistent pressure and mark size. Layering: Build up colours gradually, allowing layers to dry before applying the next. Freehand Techniques: Practice freehand techniques separately before applying them to the model to gain confidence. Detail Focus: Concentrate on the details but remember the overall look. Imperfections can add character, especially for Nurgle-themed models. How to Paint a Nurgle Sorcerer: Part Five – Rotten Belly and Maggots Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Bugman’s Glow, Khorne Red, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey Brushes: Sizes 0 and 3 S (Standard) and M (Miniature) Brushes Palette: For mixing paints Water pot Steps: 1. Base Layer for Rotten Belly Paint: Bugman’s Glow mixed with Neutral Grey Technique: Apply this mix to the fleshy areas, avoiding the maggots. This creates an ill-looking skin tone. Initially, use a larger brush, then switch to a size 0 for more detailed work. 2. Adding Depth Paint: Khorne Red (watered down) Technique: Apply in the recesses to create a shaded effect and to separate the skin from the armor. This stage is about defining the texture and contours of the belly. 3. Flesh Highlights Paint: Same base mix (Bugman’s Glow and Neutral Grey) with added Ice Yellow Technique: Highlight the raised areas and ridges of the flesh, focusing on light sourcing. The addition of Ice Yellow gives a sickly hue, enhancing the rotten look. 4. Painting the Maggots Paint: Khorne Red Technique: Paint each maggot, ensuring the red is in the recesses but not covering the entire maggot. Aim for precision to keep the maggots distinct from the skin. 5. Highlighting Maggots Stage 1: Balor Brown for the first highlight, focusing on the segments but avoiding recesses. Stage 2: Morghast Bone for the second highlight, applied more selectively. Final Highlight: Screaming Skull, targeting the most raised segments for a final pop of brightness. 6. Final Touches Paint: Watered-down Khorne Red Technique: Apply as a light wash/glaze to add a gory effect, enhancing the realism of the maggots burrowing in and out of the flesh. Tips: Consistency and Dilution: Adjust paint dilution based on the step. More watered-down paint is suitable for shading and glazing. Light Source Alignment: Ensure highlights align with the light source established in other parts of the model. Texture Focus: Pay attention to the texture of the flesh and maggots, using the paint to enhance the model’s sculpted details. Clean Up: If you overstep with the paint, go back with the original colour to tidy up any mistakes. Layering: Build up the colour gradually, allowing layers to dry before applying the next. Detail Work: Smaller brushes are crucial for the intricate detailing required, especially on the maggots. How to Paint a Nurgle Sorcerer: Part Six – Smoke and Flies Materials Needed: Paints: Pro Acryl: Grey Blue, Pale Yellow (Alternatively, opt for Games Workshop’s Sotek Green and Ice Yellow) Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Daemonette Hide, Khorne Red, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull Vallejo: Black (or Kimera Colours: Black) P3: Morrow White Brushes: Assorted sizes for varied details Palette: For mixing paints Water pot Steps: 1. Smoke Effect Paints: Grey Blue, Pale Yellow (or Sotek Green and Ice Yellow) Technique: Start with Grey Blue, blending into the smoke areas. Gradually introduce Pale Yellow (or Ice Yellow) to lighten and add variation. Employ greys for shadowy areas. 2. Refining the Smoke Technique: Concentrate on the creases and fine details. Use stippling to introduce texture, imitating particles and spores. Emphasise raised areas and curves with highlights. Apply glazes to soften and blend stippling for a natural look. (Note – I messed up the smoke in this video, I will be revisiting it!) 3. Maggots Base Colour: Khorne Red Highlight: Balor Brown for segments. Technique: Apply red judiciously, avoiding recesses. Use Balor Brown highlights on segments to create dimension. 4. Flies Base Colour: A blend of Chimera Black and Ice Yellow for a dark grey. Highlight: Incrementally add more Ice Yellow for highlights. Focus on wing edges and eyes for detail. Final Touches: Add tiny dots of Ice Yellow for highlights to enhance the glossy appearance. 5. Additional Details Technique: Employ various mixes of Daemonette Hide and Ice Yellow for wing highlights. For the flies, focus on segmenting and crafting a realistic, shiny texture. Eggs: Paint with Balor Brown, then add a dot and line of Screaming Skull for luminosity. Tips: Layering: Build up the smoke colour progressively, allowing layers to dry before adding the next. Texture Emphasis: Pay close attention to the texture in the smoke, using stippling to add depth and a lifelike appearance. Light Source Consistency: Ensure highlights on maggots and flies align with the light source established in other parts of the model. Detailing: Utilise smaller brushes for intricate work, especially on the flies and maggots. Glazing: Use glazing techniques to blend and soften the stippled texture on the smoke. How to Paint a Nurgle Sorceror: Part Seven – Leg Armour In this tutorial, I’ll be continuing to paint the Malignant Plaguecaster model, specifically focusing on the lower left leg, the trim, and the Nurgle symbol. Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Death Guard Green Balor Brown Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Screaming Skull Dark Reaper Mournfang Brown XV-88 Sotek Green Sybarite Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 0 Artist Opus brush (or similar fine detail brush) Step-by-Step Instructions 1. Base Coat with Death Guard Green Preparation: Place a small amount of Death Guard Green on your wet palette. Application: Use the size 0 brush to apply Death Guard Green over the lower leg armour. This layer doesn’t need to be overly neat as we are aiming for a textured, organic look. 2. Adding Texture with Balor Brown and Dark Reaper Balor Brown: Add Balor Brown to the palette. Using the tip of the brush, apply Balor Brown in random, scratchy strokes to create a textured effect on the armour. Dark Reaper: Similarly, place Dark Reaper on the palette. Use it to paint roughly circular shapes to represent the Nurgle corruption. These shapes should vary in size and be applied in a random pattern. 3. Highlighting with Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone Morghast Bone: Add Morghast Bone to the palette. Highlight the raised areas of the armour, focusing on the upper parts of the Nurgle bumps to create a slight 3D effect. Ushabti Bone: Mix Ushabti Bone with some white if needed for a brighter highlight. Apply this mix to the very tops of the bumps and the most prominent edges to accentuate the texture. 4. Glazing for Smooth Transitions Balor Brown Glaze: Thin Balor Brown with water (approximately 50/50 ratio) to create a glaze. Apply this glaze over the textured areas to blend the colours and soften the transitions. Dark Reaper Glaze: Thin Dark Reaper similarly and use it to add depth to the shadowed areas, particularly around the lower part of the leg. 5. Detailing the Nurgle Symbol Mournfang Brown Base: Base coat the Nurgle symbol and trim with Mournfang Brown. Highlight with XV-88 and Ice Yellow: Gradually highlight the trim by mixing XV-88 into Mournfang Brown, followed by Balor Brown, and finally adding Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights. Focus on creating sharp, bright edges to simulate a non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. 6. Applying Verdigris Effect Base with Sybarite Green: Mix Sybarite Green with a touch of Sotek Green and apply it to the areas where you want the verdigris effect. Highlight with Sotek Green and White: Gradually lighten the Sybarite Green mix with white to create layers of verdigris. Focus on the lower parts of the trim and the areas where water would naturally collect and cause corrosion. 7. Refining and Finishing Touches Final Glazes and Highlights: Use thin glazes of Ushabti Bone and Morghast Bone to refine the highlights and ensure smooth transitions. Final Details: Add any additional details like rust streaks or further texturing as needed. Use very fine lines and dots to simulate wear and tear. More Nurgle Videos… If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips plus a selection of detailed PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

This is the first in a series looking at how to paint the Harbinger of Decay model that Games Workshop sent me. This will be my main Golden Demon entry for Adepticon! In this video I look at how to paint his face, beard, horns and felt hood. Video Tutorial – Harbinger of Decay – Face, Beard, Felt Hood, Horns The following paints were used: on the Harbinger of Decay: Games Workshop: Skavenblight Dinge, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Mournfang Brown, Deathworld Forest, Death Corps Drab, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Rhinox Hide,P3: Morrow White Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Preparing the Harbinger of Decay Head The head is modified using a combination of existing models, with details like the beard sculpted on. The horns are simplified by removing excess details. Step 2: Base Coating Start with Deathworld Forest for the beard, applying it thinly. For the face, mix Bugman’s Glow with Skavenblight Dinge. Use Death Corps Drab for the base color of the hood. Step 3: Refining the Face Apply highlights to the face using Cadian Fleshtone mixed with white, focusing on raised areas. Adjust the nose and eyebrow areas for natural shading. Consider adding green irises for a more demonic look. Step 4: Detailing the Beard Lighten Deathworld Forest with white (or Morghast Bone) and apply to the Harbinger of Decay beard in layers. Enhance the beard texture with thin lines, gradually lightening the colour towards white. Glaze with a mixture of Deathworld Forest and white to add depth and maintain a hint of green. Step 5: The Hood Apply textured highlights to the hood using a mixture of Death Corps Drab and white, building up towards pure white. Ensure the front section near the forehead is the lightest to draw focus to the face. Step 6: Painting the Horns Begin with a mix of Death Corps Drab and white. Add successive layers of Deathworld Forest mixed with Morghast Bone, then Morghast Bone on its own, and finally Screaming Skull for the highest highlights. Glaze the horns with Mournfang Brown, focusing on the tips, and add details with Ushabti Bone. Step 7: Final Touches Refine the horns with Deathworld Forest and Morghast Bone to enhance the green tinge. Add more texture to the hood using very light colours, blending towards white. Continually review and refine the Harbinger of Decay, ensuring harmony in lighting and colour across different parts. Note: The process involves alternating between highlighting and glazing to build up texture and colour depth. Keep the paint thin for stippling and glazing, allowing underlying colours to show through for natural transitions. Explore more of my latest tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

These videos show how to a paint a Nurgle shield with freehand for an Ogroid from the Slaves to Darkness army box.The freehand is if a Nurgle Plaguebearer head and is intended as a potential Golden Demon entry. Scroll down to explore the tutorials and steps in order, or click the below to quick jump to a technique or section. Video One: How to Paint a Nurgle Shield with FreehandPaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide: PreparationBase PaintingFreehand SketchingRefining and DetailingFinal TouchesImportant NotesVideo Two: How to Paint the Shield Shine and NMM TrimPaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsStep-by-Step GuidePreparing the PalettePainting the ShinePainting the NMM TrimFinal TouchesImportant NotesMore Freehand Tutorials to Explore Video One: How to Paint a Nurgle Shield with Freehand Paints and Materials Used Paints Games Workshop Paints: Rhinox Hide Bugman’s Glow Mournfang Brown Morghast Bone Deathworld Forest Yriel Yellow Khorne Red Ushabti Bone Vallejo Paints: Black Ice Yellow P3 Paint: Morrow White Brushes Artist Opus: Size 00 brushes (both a newer brush for finer details and an older brush for blending) Other Materials Wet Palette: To keep paints moist and workable. Scalpel: For removing details from the shield. Sandpaper: For smoothing the shield after using the scalpel. Primer: Ultimate primer (specifically thinned with X20A for this project). Mixing Water: For thinning paints on the palette. Matte Varnish: To even out the surface and finish of the paint job. Step-by-Step Guide: Preparation Prep the Nurgle Shield with Freehand: Remove intricate details from the shield using a scalpel and sand it slightly. Keep some battle damage for authenticity, if you wish. Prime the Shield: Use Ultimate primer, thinned with X20A, applied in 4-5 thin coats. Base Painting Wet Palette Setup: Prepare a wet palette with the following Games Workshop colours: Ice Yellow, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Deathworld Forest, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, and Ushabti Bone. Also, have Vallejo Black and P3 Morrow White ready. Mixing Colours: Create various mixes of these colours on the palette, adjusting with water for a thinner consistency (approximately 50/50). Freehand Sketching Initial Sketch: Start sketching the Nurgle face on the shield using Bugman’s Glow. This doesn’t have to be symmetrical or realistic. Adding Details: Gradually add more details like eyes, horns, and facial deformations using the mixed colours. Use Rhinox Hide for shading. Background Technique: Use Vallejo Black as a ‘rubber’ to tweak and correct the sketch as needed. Refining and Detailing Light and Shadow: Use the lighter and darker mixes to create depth, focusing on the facial features. Ensure a balance between highlights and shadows. Adding Texture: Pay attention to the direction of brushstrokes to replicate skin texture and facial creases. Final Touches Metallic Effects: For a Golden Demon entry, ensure to incorporate light volumes and reflective effects on the shield, as well as on the freehand. Glazing: You may need to glaze over the freehand to integrate it with the shield’s overall shine and metallic effect. Varnishing: Finish the shield with a matte varnish to even out different paint finishes. Important Notes Brush Technique: Use the very tip of your brush for detailed work. Switch between an older brush for blending and a newer one for sharp details. Colour Importance: While exact colour mixes are flexible, ensure to maintain the overall desaturated, moody look characteristic of Nurgle. Patience and Layers: Build up the image with multiple thin layers, allowing for smooth transitions and a detailed finish. Personal Style: Remember, this guide is a base. Feel free to adjust and experiment according to your style. Video Two: How to Paint the Shield Shine and NMM Trim Paints and Materials Used Paints Vallejo Paints: Black German Grey Neutral Grey Ice Yellow White Games Workshop Paints: Mournfang Brown Brushes Size 00 Brush: Ideal for detailed work and fine textures. Used for most of the work including the shine and trim. Size 2 Brush: Used for broader strokes and glazing, especially over larger areas. Other Materials Wet Palette: To keep the paints moist and workable. Lamp: For observing how natural light falls on the model, crucial for accurate highlight placement. Blu Tack or Similar Adhesive: To temporarily attach the shield to the model for correct angle assessment. Step-by-Step Guide Preparing the Palette Setup Wet Palette: Prepare a wet palette with Vallejo Black, German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White, and Games Workshop Mournfang Brown. Create a gradient of grey shades from black to white, mixing in Ice Yellow and White with Neutral Grey for various mid-tones. Painting the Shine Analyzing Light Direction: Position the model under a lamp to observe natural light fall. This will guide the placement of the shine. Initial Highlights: Start with a Neutral Grey or a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey to block in the primary highlight areas on the shield. Building Up Layers: Gradually increase the brightness of the highlights, focusing on the top left as the primary light source. Remember, the paint will appear brighter when wet and duller when dry. Textured Effect: Use scratchy and stipple brushstrokes with minimal paint for a textured shine effect. Use the very tip of your brush. Bounce Highlight: Add a bounce highlight at the bottom of the shield, reflecting light from the ground. This should be less bright than the primary highlight. Use a watered-down Mournfang Brown for a glaze over this area. Painting the NMM Trim Blocking in Highlights: Use Neutral Grey to block in primary highlights on the trim, focusing on the top area. Adding Variation: Create a variety of light grey blocks along the trim, ensuring they get darker and more spaced out as they move away from the top highlight. Refining Highlights: Gradually add lighter tones, culminating in white for the brightest parts. Ensure these highlights align with the shield’s central highlight. Detailing Scratches: Use white to pick out tiny dots on sculpted scratches for added realism and depth. Bounce Highlight on Trim: Similar to the shield, add a less intense bounce highlight at the bottom of the trim. Final Touches Glazing: Apply a thin glaze of Mournfang Brown over certain areas for colour integration and smooth transitions. Detail Checks: Make any necessary adjustments to neaten the highlights and ensure consistency in lighting and texture across the shield and trim. Important Notes Consistency and Control: Maintain a good balance in paint consistency – not too thick for opaque marks and not too watery to avoid spreading. Brush Technique: Always pull the brush towards yourself for control and precision, especially important when working near the freehand area. Learning and Experimentation: Remember, this technique is both challenging and rewarding. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from the process. These guides should provide a clear roadmap to achieving a high-standard finish for your freehand on shields, suitable for display or competition. Remember, practice and patience are key to mastering these techniques and don’t be afraid to do your own thing and add your own personal touch or style to your freehand! More Freehand Tutorials to Explore If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

This video shows how to paint the Warcry Bloated One from the Rotmire Creed warband from the new Warcry box that Games Workshop sent me.The Rotmire Creed, a cabal of swamp-dwelling devotees of Chaos, employ pestilence as their primary means of warfare, unleashing devastating plagues upon their adversaries. Among their ranks, the Bloated Ones stand as grotesque testaments to the Creed’s dark practices. These individuals, having been subjected to the Witherlords’ most vile potions without succumbing to death, have become swollen vessels of contagion, their bodies grotesquely expanded and their movements hindered by their unnaturally engorged limbs. Revered by their brethren as harbingers of immortality—a belief bolstered by the bizarre mutations that emerge from their putrid flesh—Bloated Ones are formidable foes in combat. They wield raker-claws to eviscerate enemies or cast hooked nets to ensnare those who dare flee. Moreover, their bloated bodies serve as deadly weapons; when breached, they expel a corrosive bile that dissolves both metal and bone with terrifying efficiency. Video: How to Paint a Warcry Bloated One All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Games Workshop (Citadel): Deathworld Forest Mournfang Brown Rhinox Hide Balor Brown Hobgrot Hide Bugman’s Glow Morghast Bone Screaming Skull Darkreaper Skeleton Horde (Contrast Paint) Seraphim Sepia (Contrast Paint) Vallejo: Neutral Grey Black P3: Morrow White Brushes Artist Opus Size 2 Brush (for softer, broader highlights and smoother finishes) Artist Opus Size 0 Brush (for detailed work and fine highlighting) A larger brush for base coating (specific size not mentioned, but a general-purpose larger brush will work) Primers Badger Ultimate Primer (Black) Additional Materials Water for thinning paints Wet palette (to keep paints workable longer) Mixing palette (for mixing paints and creating custom shades) Mod Podge (for basing, to create a wet, swampy effect) Grass tufts (for basing, to add texture and detail to the base) Black paint for touch-ups and corrections Step by Step Guide Priming Prime the model black using Badger Ultimate Primer. This will help in creating deep shadows and contrast for the layers to come. Base Coating Apply Deathworld Forest to all cloth areas. Don’t worry about perfect coverage on the first pass; the black undercoat showing through can add depth. Paint the forearm guard and wooden elements with Mournfang Brown. Aim for a base coat that covers well but allows some of the black primer to show through for natural shading. For flesh areas, use Bugman’s Glow. The paint’s consistency should be about 50:50 with water to ensure it spreads evenly without being too thick. Apply Hobgrot Hide to any bamboo-like areas, aiming for even coverage but accepting some transparency for depth. Shading Shade the bamboo using Skeleton Horde (Contrast Paint) to add depth and enhance the texture. Create a wash with Darkreaper for the flesh, thinning it significantly with water. This adds a grey-green hue, contributing to the desaturated look. Apply Seraphim Sepia to wound areas for a sickly effect. Highlighting Begin highlighting the cloth by adding white to Deathworld Forest, creating a lighter shade for the raised areas. Use a size 2 brush for softer, broader highlights. Highlight the wooden and bamboo elements by mixing Mournfang Brown with white, then progressively adding more white for brighter highlights. For flesh highlights, start with Bugman’s Glow mixed with a bit of white, increasing the white for subsequent layers to achieve a gradual, soft transition. Leather straps and bone elements should be highlighted starting with Balor Brown, then Morghast Bone, and finally Screaming Skull for the brightest points. Paint the horns starting with a base of Rhinox Hide, adding layers of Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull towards the base where it meets the hood for a light source effect. Use Rhinox Hide to paint veins and corruption spreading from the wounds. Thinly apply Darkreaper for a subtle, visible texture. Finishing Touches For the gourd, start with Mournfang Brown, gradually adding white for highlights, ensuring a smooth transition. Finalise the model by adding texture and fine details, such as chipping and weathering, to enhance the realism and depth. Basing Base the model using a combination of Deathworld Forest and Rhinox Hide, followed by patches of Skeleton Horde for variation. Finish with tufts of grass and a layer of Mod Podge for a wet, swampy effect. Throughout this process, maintain a consistent light source (top-left in this case) to ensure cohesive shading and highlighting. The goal is to achieve a look that’s both desaturated and detailed, with a focus on creating texture and depth through careful layering and shading. Remember, the key to this desaturated, pastel effect lies in thin layers, patience, and attention to detail. More Nurgle and Rot Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

In this tutorial, we’re diving into the wonderfully grim world of Nurgle as we explore how to bring the Rotbringer Sorcerer from Age of Sigmar to life with vivid detail. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will equip you with techniques and tips to get going. Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part One: All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part Two Materials and Paints Primer: Badger’s Ultimate Primer Black Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Skeleton Horde Contrast Vallejo Paints: Basalt Grey, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (optional) P3 Paints: Morrow White Step-by-Step Guide to the Rotbringer Sorceror: Preparation and Priming: Fully assemble your Rotbringer Sorcerer and prime it with a black primer. For easier access to intricate areas, consider leaving the arm that holds the scythe detached during priming. Base Coating: Apply base coats using Mournfang Brown for wooden elements and Basalt Grey for the cloak and scythe blade. Bugman’s Glow is ideal for flesh areas. Apply these base coats roughly, aiming for coverage rather than precision. Skin Tones: Enhance skin areas with Bugman’s Glow, providing a rosy, dark flesh tone. Progress with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights, ensuring to thin your paints for a smooth finish. Wood and Metal Detailing: Utilise Balor Brown for initial wood highlights, transitioning to Mournfang Brown for added depth. For metallic areas like the scythe blade, start with Rhinox Hide, building up to Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights. Create rust effects using Trollslayer Orange. Shading: Employ Corvus Black, adequately thinned, to add depth through shading across the model, focusing on recesses and shadowed areas. Detail Enhancement: Use Screaming Skull for edge highlights and detail work on scrolls and similar features. Maintain thin paint layers for refinement. Textures and Freehand Elements: Incorporate freehand elements like Nurgle symbols using Mephiston Red. Apply textures such as rust and wood grain using stippling techniques with Trollslayer Orange for rust and Morghast Bone for wood grain. Verdigris Effect: On copper elements, create a verdigris effect with Sotek Green mixed with white. Apply this judiciously to areas that would naturally show oxidation, steering clear of bright highlights. Candle Flames: Paint candle flames using Yriel Yellow, adding Trollslayer Orange to the tips. Blend these colours for a realistic flame appearance. Model Basing: Prepare a base that complements the model, using a mix of sand, poly filler, and paint it with XV-88, Morghast Bone, and weathering powder. Introduce grass patches for added realism. Final Adjustments: Revisit the Rotbringer Sorcerer for any last highlights or corrections. Use a precise brush for fine details, ensuring the paint consistency is suitable. Model Sealing: Once satisfied with the painting, apply a matte varnish to protect your work. Tips: Thin your paints for smoother layers and better control. Utilise an older brush for base coating and a newer, finer brush for detailed work. Regularly assess your work from a distance for adjustments. Experiment with light placement for dynamic highlighting and shadowing effects on your Rotbringer Sorceror. Initial layers don’t need perfection as they will be layered over with more detail. Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 More Nurgle Tutorials More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

These videos will show you how to paint a Death Guard Space Marine, specifically from the Space Marine Heroes collection. These guides will focus on creating a textured, decayed look characteristic of the Death Guard, using various stippling techniques. Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part OneMaterials NeededStepsTipsVideo – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part TwoAdditional Painting StepsAdditional TipsMore Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!Free Video Tutorials Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part One Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Khorne Red, Volupus Pink, Fire Dragon Bright, (alternatively Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for copper effect) Vallejo: Ice Yellow, (alternatively Old Rose and Salmon Rose) Brushes: A variety of sizes, including stippling brushes (Artist Opus dry brush or makeup brushes can be used) Primer: Black primer (Ultimate Primer recommended) Palette: For mixing colours Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes Steps Priming and Base Texture: Prime the model in black. Start stippling texture onto the armour using Balor Brown. Ensure the paint is diluted (about 50% water) to achieve translucency and avoid excessive build-up. Layering the Texture: Continue building texture with Morghast Bone, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Aim for a top-left light perspective. Dilute your paints as you stipple, gradually building up layers for a controlled, textured effect. Detailing with Contrast Paint: Apply Volupus Pink to recesses and bubbly areas on the armour for quick coverage. This helps in defining those decayed spots distinct to Death Guard armour. Base Colour for Trims and Metals: Paint all trims and metal areas with watered-down Rhinox Hide. This acts as a base for later metallic effects. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Effect: For a non-metallic metal look, mix Old Rose with Rhinox Hide and Salmon Rose with Ice Yellow. Layer these mixes to create a copper-like effect, adding Mournfang Brown for warmth. Highlighting Armour and Details: Use Screaming Skull to push highlights on the armour. Concentrate on areas like the chest, head, and shoulder pads to draw focus. Stippling Screaming Skull provides a more opaque highlight. For the pus boils, start with Balor Brown and build up layers with Fist Red for veins. Add Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for highlights, creating a shiny, reflective surface. Painting Fungus and Red Details: Base the fungus-like growths with Khorne Red. Create a gradient effect by mixing Khorne Red with Fire Dragon Bright, then highlight with Ice Yellow for a vibrant contrast against the armour. Tips Patience is Key: Death Guard models are detailed, so take your time to add depth and texture. Light Source Consistency: Ensure the light source remains consistent across the model for a cohesive look. Layering: Gradual layering helps create a more realistic texture, particularly for the decayed look of the Death Guard. Brush Care: Clean brushes thoroughly between colours, especially when working with stippling techniques. Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part Two Continuing from Part 1, let’s delve into completing the Death Guard Space Marine with a focus on the gun, additional weathering effects, and other details. We’ll be using a variety of techniques to add depth and character to the model. Additional Painting Steps Gun and Metallics: Start with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for a coppery effect. Apply these colours to the gun, focusing on light placement and creating non-metallic metal effects. Use Mournfang Brown and Ice Yellow for richer copper tones. Ensure smooth transitions and consistent light reflection. Weathering and Verdigris Effect: For added realism, apply verdigris using Sotek Green. Mix with water (approx. 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply it to recessed areas and around details for an oxidized look. Add layers of Sotek Green mixed with white for a more pronounced effect. Apply sparingly to avoid overpowering the metallic sheen. Highlighting and Details: Highlight the gun and metallic parts with Ice Yellow and a touch of white for glare effects. Be cautious with paint consistency to avoid unwanted textures. Address the back of the model similarly, but you can opt for brighter highlights as this part is often in shadow during gameplay. Painting the Backpack and Tentacles: For the backpack’s tentacle-like extensions, use a mix of Pink Horror, Emperor’s Children, and Fulgrim Pink. Stipple on these colours to create a mottled, organic texture. Use Averland Sunset or a similar yellow for raised pustules, adding depth and contrast to the tentacles. Green Goo Effect: Paint any dripping goo with Moot Green, applying in layers to create a luminous, toxic effect. Highlight edges with Ice Yellow for added vibrancy. Finishing Touches: Utilize Corvus Black for deepening shadows and refining details. Water down the paint and apply it as a glaze to enhance contrast and soften textures. For the final highlights, focus on the model’s focal points, such as the head, chest, and weapon, ensuring they draw the viewer’s attention. Additional Tips Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a more natural and controlled effect. Light Source: Keep the light source consistent across the model for a cohesive appearance. Weathering Techniques: Experiment with weathering to add character. Verdigris and rust effects can significantly enhance the decayed look of the Death Guard. Patience: Take your time with details, especially on focal points, to make them stand out. Brush Care: Maintain your brushes, especially when working with techniques that can be hard on them, like stippling and dry brushing. More Death Guard Tutorials to Explore! Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

I created some shiny (and then grimy!) non metallic metal copper on my Maggotkin of Nurgle, which I then weathered with distinctive green verdigris. This is how I did it in a series of step by step guides and videos on NMM copper. How to Paint NMM Copper – Part One Paints and Materials Brush Size and Type: Don’t use a tiny detail brush for the entire process. Instead, a slightly larger, older brush is preferred. My older brush has a worn tip, which is thicker than a new brush and allows for better paint control and blending. An old, well-used brush is good for this type of painting. The worn tip of an older brush can make blending easier. Paints Used Games Workshop: Doombull Brown, Golden Yellow (old colour; find a modern equivalent if needed) Scale 75: Ice Yellow, Salmon Pink, Black Red Black and White paint (any preferred brand) Step-by-Step Guide Understanding Copper NMM: Remember, copper NMM aims to create a metallic effect without using metallic paints. Copper is essentially pink in hue, similar to skin tones, with brown for shadows and a hint of sand yellow. Preparation of Palette: On your wet palette, blend all the colours together into one smear. This is because copper has a lot of subtleties in colouring. Start with Doombull Brown and mix in Black Red from Scale 75. If you don’t have Black Red, mix black and red to achieve a dark, reddish brown. Creating the Base Colour: For the darker areas of copper, you want something a bit more red. Along your paint smear on the palette, integrate colours that become more yellow and orange. Use Golden Yellow and Ice Yellow for this purpose. Add Salmon Pink at the very end for highlights. Applying the Base Layer: Before starting the video, paint the whole model (or the part you’re working on) with Doombull Brown. This creates an easier starting point for the copper effect. Mixing on the Model: You’ll be mixing the paint directly on the model, working quickly. This method is different but effective for creating copper NMM. Apply the colours and quickly determine where the highlights will be. The idea is to get lighter colours down first as a base to work from. Developing the Effect: Start blending in reflections and refining the look. Add lighter colours and work on creating smooth transitions and contrast. Remember, smooth transitions and good contrast are key in NMM painting. Refining the Details: As you progress, you’ll refine the copper effect by using thinner paint and increasing contrast. Use Salmon Pink for the higher highlights and blend it in for a smooth transition. Final Touches: Towards the end, focus on refining the paint with continual glazes until it looks smooth and metallic. You might need to make slight adjustments to the highlights and shadows. Add black, turned into a glaze, at the bottom of the shoulder pad to increase contrast. Final Overview: The final piece should showcase a refined copper NMM effect with smooth transitions, proper contrasts, and a realistic metallic look. How to Paint NMM Copper Greeny Verdigris Effect Paints and Materials Games Workshop Sybarite Green P3 Morrow White (or your preferred white paint) Step-by-Step Guide Understanding Verdigris: Verdigris is a patina that forms on copper, brass, or bronze when exposed to air or seawater over time. This guide aims to create a more realistic effect, where verdigris covers larger areas rather than just around rivets and crevices. Creating Verdigris Tones: You will mix Sybarite Green with Morrow White to create three stages of verdigris tones: First Stage: Pure Sybarite Green. Second Stage: A mix of half Sybarite Green and half Morrow White. Third Stage: Mostly Morrow White with a tint of Sybarite Green. Applying the First Layer: Start with the pure Sybarite Green. Apply it by gently dabbing it onto the model. The goal is to create a patchy texture rather than smooth streaks. This layer should cover most of the area, but try to maintain the shades and shine of the underlying metallic paint. Mid-tone Application: Next, apply the second stage mix (half Sybarite Green, half Morrow White). This should be used more sparingly than the first layer. Focus on applying this mix to darker areas and recesses. You want to maintain visibility of the copper NMM base, so apply it carefully and artistically. Adding Highlights: For the final layer, use the lightest mix (mostly Morrow White with a hint of Sybarite Green). This is like a reverse highlight, working best in shadows to create contrast. Apply this very selectively, as it can quickly cover the base layers. It should go into the deepest recesses and lower curved areas where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Final Touches: Remember, verdigris should have an uneven, patchy appearance. It should not be smooth or uniformly applied like rust. Check your work against reference images to ensure a natural look. Finishing Up: After applying all three stages, your model should exhibit a realistic verdigris effect over the copper. The underlying NMM copper should still be visible, contributing to the overall realism. Gallery – Click to view larger More NMM Tutorials to Explore! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

A series of tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Quick note here – these are some of my earliest tutorial videos, so are not of the same quality as my current tutorials visually and sound-wise. My apologies for this.Richard Scroll down to explore the tutorials in order, or quick-jump to a segment by clicking on one of the items below: Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Green ArmourMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Armour DetailMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Pink TentaclesMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Copper CanisterMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Red CloakMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Cloak FreehandMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Cloak Freehand RefinementMaterials and Paints UsedStep by Step GuideMore Deathshroud TutorialsLots More Deathguard Video Tutorials! Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Green Armour All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Materials and Paints Used Games Workshop: Elysian Green, Nurgling Green, Rhinox Hide Additional paints for mixing and shading: Pine Oxide, Loden Gree Step by Step Guide Paint Preparation: Gather your paints – Legion Green, Pine Oxide, Loden Green, and Rhinox Hide. Mix these to create five different shades ranging from light to dark for various transitions. Base Coat: Start with a base coat of pure Legion Green. This will be your foundation colour. Shading: Begin shading the lower belly area and other parts where shadows naturally fall. Use a mixture of Legion Green and Rhinox Hide for this. Remember, at this stage, the transitions don’t need to be perfect. Wet Blending: Apply the shading using a wet blending technique. This involves placing one colour and, before it dries, adding another colour to blend on the model. It’s a rough, quick blending to position the shadows and shapes. Highlighting: For highlighting, mix Legion Green with Megan Green. Start applying highlights to areas where light naturally hits, like the upper sections of the model. Refining Transitions: As you progress, refine your transitions and shadows for a more polished and detailed look. Final Highlights: Use pure Nurgling Green for the final highlight stage. This adds a brighter touch to the highest points where light would be most intense. Detailing: Add finer details, like light reflections and texture variations, as needed to enhance the realism of the armour. Additional Techniques: If desired, use glazes or additional layers to further refine the shading and highlighting. Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Armour Detail Materials and Paints Used Games Workshop: Elysian Green, Nurgling Green, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Forge World: Gal Vorbak Red (use Games Workshop Khorne Red with a tiny amount of blue for a similar colour) Step by Step Guide Initial Shading: Start by shading the lower leg using a mix of Elysian Green and Rhinox Hide. This forms the base for the subsequent layers. Layering with Pine Oxide: Apply Pine Oxide in layers. This is a form of light layering, where the paint is applied thinly, almost like working with glazes but slightly thicker. Blending Techniques: Employ wet blending by quickly layering the paint. This helps in merging the layers smoothly, ensuring a subtle transition of colours. Stippling with Mournfang Brown: Use Mournfang Brown for stippling effects. This is done by applying small dots to create texture and depth. Refining Highlights: Add highlights using a finer brush. Highlight the lower edges of the leg where light naturally catches but avoid highlighting the upper edges to maintain a natural look. Fixing Imperfections: If any area becomes too dark, use the in-between transitions to correct it. This involves mixing paint directly on the model, which can help in hiding mistakes. Applying Red Glazes: Use a heavily watered-down Evil Sunz Scarlet (or a similar red glaze) to add subtle tones and enhance contrast. Streaking for Battle Damage: For bullet holes or battle-damaged areas, create streaking effects using Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide, depicting the gunk running down from the damage. Final Touches: Add final details and weathering to complete the look of the armour. This includes additional stippling and refining the contrast between light and shadow areas. Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Pink Tentacles Materials and Paints Used Games Workshop: Emperor’s Children, Rhinox Hide, Evil Sunz Scarlet Vallejo: Model Colour Black (Alternatively, Games Workshop black can be used) P3: Morrow White (Alternatively, Games Workshop white can be used) Step by Step Guide Base Colour: Start with a base of Emperor’s Children pink. Shading: Apply Rhinox Hide for shading. Paint the tip of the tentacle black for contrast. Blending: Blend Rhinox Hide mixed with Emperor’s Children down from the black tip to create a smooth transition. Detailing: Using straight Emperor’s Children, add line details to the tentacle, going beyond the sculpted segments for more intricacy. Highlighting: Focus on the middle area of the tentacle with a mix of Emperor’s Children and Morrow White. This creates a focal point and simulates light catching the tentacle. Final Touches: For light reflections, use a lighter pink or white. Add a glaze of Evil Sunz Scarlet for depth and contrast. Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Copper Canister This technique will give you a realistic copper effect using a simplified palette. Materials and Paints Used Games Workshop: Doombull Brown, Cadian Fleshtone Vallejo: Ice Yellow Step by Step Guide Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Doombull Brown. Mixing Colours: Create a palette with five shades by mixing Doombull Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, and Ice Yellow in different proportions. Highlighting: Apply the mix of Doombull Brown and Cadian Fleshtone across the upper curve for initial highlights. Adjust the position of the highlight by observing the model under light. Refining: Blend the colours for smooth transitions. Use finer brushes for detailed areas and to keep dark lines sharp. Final Highlights: Use a mixture of Cadian Fleshtone and Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Add small touches of pure Ice Yellow for the brightest points. Artificial Reflections: Paint reflections and detail lines that may not naturally occur but enhance the metallic effect. Look as photographs of copper items for references to help you with this. Finishing Touches: Adjust and refine the highlights and shadows, ensuring a balance between realism and aesthetic appeal. Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Red Cloak This process results in a textured, worn cloak suitable for a Death Shroud Terminator, using a simple but effective painting technique. Materials and Paints Used Gal Vorbak Red (Forge World) Cadian Fleshtone (Games Workshop) Eldandil Violet (Scalecolour Fantasy) Step by Step Guide Base Coat: Start with Gal Vorbak Red as the primary colour. Detailing and Texture: Use Cadian Fleshtone for adding highlights and texture, creating a worn and mouldy appearance. Shading: Apply Eldandil Violet for shading in the recesses, enhancing depth and wear. Glazing with Evil Sunz Scarlet: Use it as a glaze to add warmth to the cloak. Refining Texture: Focus on cross-hatching movements to build texture, emphasizing the worn look. Final Touches: Add further glazes and highlights to refine the texture and depth, tailoring the effect to your desired level of detail. Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Cloak Freehand Materials and Paints Used The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Heavy Brown, Cork Brown, Ice Yellow, Black P3: Battlefield Brown *Note, Morrow White was not actually used in this video, but is used in part 2. Step by Step Guide Preparation: I used a test model to experiment with my design concept. This approach allows you to refine the freehand pattern before applying it to the main models. Base Colours: Apply Vallejo Heavy Brown as a foundational colour. Enhance the base with Cork Brown for a richer texture. Use Rhinox Hide to outline the design, ensuring the lines are crisp and distinct. Detailing: Carefully mark the eye sockets with black paint, paying attention to the cloak’s folds. These details will add depth and character to the freehand design. Highlighting: Utilize Ice Yellow for highlights. This step involves blending the highlights with the base colors to achieve a natural, integrated look. The highlights should accentuate the topography of the cloak and enhance the freehand design. Shading: Use Battlefield Brown to deepen the shadows and add complexity to the design. This shade will create a more dynamic and realistic appearance on the cloak. Finishing Touches: Review the entire design, making final adjustments for consistency and balance. Focus on refining the freehand artwork, ensuring it harmonizes with the cloak’s texture and the overall theme of the model. Video: Deathguard Deathshroud Bodyguard Cloak Freehand Refinement Materials and Paints Used The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Cadian Fleshtone, Pallid Wych Flesh, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Loren Forest, Nurgling Green, Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Cork Brown, Black, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Heavy Brown P3: Battlefield Brown, Morrow White Step by Step Guide Base Preparation: Start by painting a rough base of fleshy shapes using Cadian Fleshtone. This initial layer doesn’t need to be perfect or smooth. Detailing Ears and Face: Add ears to distinguish the image from a skull, creating a more zombie-like face. Use Kadeem Flesh Tone for this step. Sketching Flesh and Bone: Sketch out areas where flesh appears torn or missing, revealing bone underneath. This technique enhances the undead appearance and integrates the existing skull highlights. Adding White Highlights: Use Pallid Wych Flesh to accentuate bone areas, making them stand out from the flesh tone. Painting the Eyes: Employ Neutral Grey, followed by Pale Grey Blue for the eyes. Add white dots in the center and top left corner of each eye for a lifelike effect. Mouth and Teeth Details: Refine the mouth and teeth using Rhinox Hide and Ice Yellow for highlights. Focus on defining the teeth shapes and adding depth to the mouth. Adding Texture to Flesh: Use Bugman’s Glow and other flesh tones to create textured, worn skin. Apply these tones in layers, allowing the underlying skull details to peek through. Final Touches: Finish by adding fine details and additional highlights to enhance the depth and realism of the freehand design. The key to this process is building up the layers gradually, refining the details as you go, and ensuring the highlights and shadows work together to create a realistic, three-dimensional appearance. More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide Lots More Deathguard Video Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

A video on how I painted up this friendly little Great Unclean One Nurgling! In this comprehensive guide, we’ll learn essential techniques such as layering, blending, washing, and highlighting, all aimed at bringing the detailed Nurgling model to vivid life. Video: How to Paint a Great Unclean One Nurgling Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop Paints: Cadian Fleshtone Rhinox Hide Kislev Flesh Ceramite White Yriel Yellow Emperor’s Children Celestra Grey Skavenblight Dinge Lothern Blue Cybarite Green Abaddon Black Mournfang Brown Ushabti Bone Zamesi Desert Agrax Earthshade (for wash) Scale 75 Paints: Kalahari Orange Mars Orange Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black Ice Yellow Brushes: In the tutorial I mention using a new size 1 brush with a fine point, ideal for both general painting and fine details. A good point for precision work and the brush I was using was an Artis Opus brush! An older, rough brush is used for applying the Scale 75 paints to create a rusty texture on the chain. Step-by-Step Guide Step 1: Base Colours for Skin Begin with a base of Cadian Fleshtone on the skin. Create a palette with three colour mixtures: pure Cadian Fleshtone, a 50/50 mix of Cadian Fleshtone and Rhinox Hide, and a mixture mostly of Rhinox Hide with a small amount of Cadian Fleshtone. Step 2: Painting Shadows Start with the darkest mixture (mostly Rhinox Hide) to paint creases, dark areas, and shadows. The approach here doesn’t need to be very neat; it’s more about laying down the dark tones. Step 3: Mid-tone Shading Use the mid-tone mixture for most of the shading. Avoid painting over areas that will be highlighted later, like the chest and middle of the belly. Step 4: Blending and Refining As you proceed, switch between mixtures for blending, often without washing the brush. This method helps create quick transitions. Focus on darkening areas around the edges where the Nurgling touches Rotigus for shadow effects. Step 5: Teeth and Boils For the teeth, apply a quick wash of Agrax Earthshade to outline and define them. Then, start refining the shading and blending, particularly with the mid-tone shade. Step 6: Final Skin Highlights The final skin highlights won’t be Cadian Fleshtone but a brighter colour. However, use Cadian Fleshtone initially to get all shadows in place, creating transitions where the darkest shadows show through beneath lighter layers. Step 7: Eyes and Pupils Paint the eye with Yriel Yellow for a strong, vibrant colour. Then, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to paint the pupil, ensuring it looks forward and round. Step 8: Smoke Effect Base the smoke with Lothern Blue, then use Cybarite Green mixed with a little Abaddon Black. Highlight the inner recesses of the smoke with a mixture of Lothern Blue and Ceramite White, getting lighter towards the start of the smoke. Step 9: Rusty Chain Use Scale 75 Kalahari Orange and Mars Orange for a rusty look. Apply with a rough brush for a patchy appearance. Highlight with Skavenblight Dinge, Celestra Grey, and a touch of Ushabti Bone on the raised edges to mimic worn metal. Step 10: Copper Smoke Dispenser Paint with Mournfang Brown, highlighting with Cadian Fleshtone mixed with Ice Yellow, focusing on raised edges facing upwards. Use Lothern Blue for the verdigris effect, concentrating on the recesses for a corroded look. Step 11: Horns and Tentacles Start horns with Mournfang Brown, blending into Abaddon Black towards the tip. Highlight with Skavenblight Dinge and Celestra Grey. For tentacles, use a base of Emperor’s Children mixed with a small amount of Ushabti Bone, adding horizontal lines along each tentacle. Highlight with a brighter mix of Emperor’s Children and Ceramite White, focusing on the central area. Remember, the key to this process is layering and blending, creating smooth transitions between colours. More Nurgle Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Learn how to paint a Great Unclean One in this selection of videos, with tips on his hood, skin, belly mouth, staff, horns and friendly little nurgling! My apologies for quality, this was one of my very first sets of video tutorials, way back in 2018! Scroll down to explore these in order, or use the contents below to jump quickly to a section of the model or technique. Video: Great Unclean One HoodMaterials NeededStep-by-Step Guide to the Great Unclean One HoodStep 1: PrimingStep 2: Base Colour ApplicationStep 3: Creating and Applying the Mid-ToneStep 4: Detailing and Texture EnhancementStep 5: Final HighlightsStep 6: Glazing for DepthStep 7: Touch-ups and Final AdjustmentsVideo: Great Unclean One Belly MouthMaterials Required:Step-by-Step Guide to the Belly MouthStep 1: Base ColouringStep 2: Painting the TeethStep 3: Shading and Texturing the GumsStep 4: Glazing for Colour DepthStep 5: Applying Blood for the Blood GodFinal TouchesVideo: Great Unclean One SkinPaints Needed:Step-by-Step Guide to the SkinBase Colouring and Initial Blending:Refinement and Detailing:Adding Texture with Dots:Finishing Touches:Video: Great Unclean One HornsMaterials:Step-by-Step Guide to the HornsBase Coating and Initial Blending:Refining the Gradient:Adding the Green Tint:Final Touches:Video: Great Unclean One (Rotigus) StaffMaterials Needed:Step-by-Step Guide to the StaffBase CoatingInitial Colour ApplicationTransition and BlendingDetailingFinishing TouchesConclusion and ProtectionVideo: Great Unclean One NurglingPaints and Materials UsedStep-by-Step Guide on the NurglingMore Nurgle Tutorials Video: Great Unclean One Hood The process of painting the black hood of a Great Unclean One, focusing on achieving a textured, worn look that stands out on a larger model. Materials Needed A fine detail paintbrush, preferably a standard size over a miniature brush for better control. Black primer (P3 or Games Workshop Black recommended). Paints: Skavenblight Dinge, Celestra Grey (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow (Vallejo); Black Leather (Scale 75); Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop). Water for thinning paints and creating glazes. A palette for mixing paints. Step-by-Step Guide to the Great Unclean One Hood Step 1: Priming Ensure your model is primed in black. This serves as the base colour and will help in creating deep shadows under the subsequent layers. Step 2: Base Colour Application Apply Black Leather from Scale 75 over the hood, leaving some of the black primer visible in the deepest recesses. This step is done roughly to start building the texture we desire. The black primer peeking through will add natural shadows to the texture. Step 3: Creating and Applying the Mid-Tone Mix Skavenblight Dinge and Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a warm, mid-grey tone. Without cleaning your brush from the Black Leather application, apply this mix over the hood. The residual Black Leather on the brush will mix with your mid-tone directly on the model, enhancing the textured effect. This mix should be applied more liberally on the areas that would naturally catch more light, such as the top and folds of the hood. Step 4: Detailing and Texture Enhancement Using the mid-tone mix, start adding more defined textures and highlights. Focus on the edges and any raised details to make them stand out. This includes the edges of tears and holes in the hood. Apply your paint with deliberate, rough strokes to mimic the look of worn leather. The paint should be thicker to avoid smoothing out the texture. Step 5: Final Highlights Use Celestra Grey to apply the final highlights. Focus on the very edges and peaks where light would hit the strongest. Remember, this paint has a matte finish, which contrasts nicely with the previously applied colours, adding to the worn fabric effect. Step 6: Glazing for Depth Create a glaze with Mournfang Brown and a touch of black (either P3 or Games Workshop). Thin these paints down significantly with water on a separate palette. Apply this glaze sparingly to the shadows and recesses to add depth and enhance the dirty, worn look. The glaze will subtly tint the underlying colours, marrying them together while adding a slight sheen in places to mimic the varied textures of aged fabric. Step 7: Touch-ups and Final Adjustments After glazing, you may find some highlights have dulled. Reapply Celestra Grey sparingly to the most prominent edges and details to bring back the contrast. This step should make sure you maintain the balance between detailed texture and the overall worn look of the hood. Video: Great Unclean One Belly Mouth Materials Required: Fine detail paintbrushes Palette for mixing paints Water for thinning paints Base colour: Warboss Green (Games Workshop) Additional Colours: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown (Games Workshop), Ice Yellow (Vallejo), Morrow White (P3 or any white paint from Games Workshop will suffice), Elysian Green, Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop) Technical paint: Blood for the Blood God (Games Workshop) Step-by-Step Guide to the Belly Mouth Step 1: Base Colouring Initial Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Warboss Green mixed with a touch of Rhinox Hide to slightly darken the green. This mix provides a solid foundation for the gum area and a natural shadow effect for the recesses between the teeth. Step 2: Painting the Teeth Initial Layer: Use Balor Brown for the teeth’s base layer, setting a warm undertone for later layers. Highlighting: Apply Ice Yellow over Balor Brown, leaving a small margin near the gums to create a transition from the darker base to a lighter tip. Final Highlights: Add Morrow White to the very tips of the teeth, enhancing their sharpness and giving them a polished appearance. Make sure this white layer is applied thinly and only at the tips. Step 3: Shading and Texturing the Gums Shading: Use Rhinox Hide to shade around the teeth and gum line, deepening the recesses and adding depth. Adding Texture: Reapply Warboss Green to restore vibrancy to the gums, followed by Elysian Green for highlights. These steps add texture and variation. Refining Details: With Ice Yellow, highlight the most prominent areas of the gums, aligning these highlights with the light source and the highlights on the teeth. Step 4: Glazing for Colour Depth Preparing Glazes: Create glazes from Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide by significantly thinning these paints. Apply these glazes over teeth and gums to unify the colours, soften transitions, and add natural depth. Red Glazing: Thin Evil Sunz Scarlet to a glaze consistency and apply over the gum area, introducing a hint of irritation. This also sets the stage for applying Blood for the Blood God. Step 5: Applying Blood for the Blood God Applying Gore: Strategically apply Blood for the Blood God around the gum line and on select areas of the teeth to simulate fresh blood and gore, enhancing the grotesqueness with a glossy finish. Manipulating the Blood: Use the brush to create realistic drips or pools, focusing on how blood might naturally accumulate in the creature’s mouth. Final Touches Adjustments: After the Blood for the Blood God has dried, revisit any areas that may require adjustments or additional highlights to ensure they stand out against the glossy blood effect. Video: Great Unclean One Skin We’ll use a mix of Games Workshop paints to layer, blend, and detail the skin to give it a lifelike, diseased appearance. Paints Needed: Paints (Games Workshop): Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Ushabti Bone, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Skavenblight Dinge, Moot Green, Pallid Wych Flesh. Step-by-Step Guide to the Skin Base Colouring and Initial Blending: Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Cadian Fleshtone applied over a grey primer. This doesn’t require precision; just ensure complete coverage. Rhinox Hide: Apply a quick airbrush (or brush) layer of Rhinox Hide to introduce shadows. This is optional but provides a good base for further detailing. Mixing on the Model: Begin blending Rhinox Hide directly on the model into the Cadian Fleshtone. This method is quick and doesn’t require perfect smoothness, as further texture work will cover imperfections. Use a thicker consistency for better blending. Light and Shadow: Focus on creating light at the top and shadows at the bottom of curves and crevices. Blend by alternating between Cadian Fleshtone and Rhinox Hide, directly mixing on the model for a rough transition. Refinement and Detailing: Refining with Kislev Flesh: With the skin’s base layers blended, use Kislev Flesh to start highlighting. Focus on raised areas and parts that would catch the light. This stage involves more precise brushwork to enhance the model’s details. Ushabti Bone for Highlights: For the highest points and most prominent details, apply Ushabti Bone. This step brings out the texture and gives the skin a more dimensional look. Glazing for Depth: Create glazes with Skavenblight Dinge and Mournfang Brown. Apply these very thinly over the skin to unify the tones, add warmth, and enhance the transitions between colours. Adding Texture with Dots: Dotting Technique: Use a mix of the flesh tones (Cadian Fleshtone for darker areas, Kislev Flesh for mid-tones, and Ushabti Bone for light areas) to dot the skin, creating texture. Vary the size of the dots based on the area you’re working on, keeping them random to avoid patterns. Applying Glazes Over Dots: Use Moot Green to glaze over the dotted areas, focusing on the recesses but avoiding the highest lights. This introduces a sickly green hue indicative of Nurgle’s influence. Final Glazes: Reapply glazes of Mournfang Brown to reintroduce warmth and further blend the skin tones, ensuring a cohesive and natural look. Finishing Touches: Highlighting with Pallid Wych Flesh: Finally, use Pallid Wych Flesh to add fine highlights to the very tips and edges of the most raised details, enhancing the texture and depth of the skin. Final Adjustments: Assess the model and make any necessary adjustments to ensure a smooth gradient and natural look across all skin areas. Video: Great Unclean One Horns Materials: Vallejo Model Color Black Vallejo Ivory Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) Balor Brown (Games Workshop) Iyanden Yellow (Alternative to P3’s Iosen Green for glazing) Abaddon Black (Games Workshop, alternative to Coat d’Arms Black) Fine detail brushes A wet palette Water for thinning paints Step-by-Step Guide to the Horns Base Coating and Initial Blending: Base Coat: Start by applying Vallejo Model Color Black directly onto the horns over a grey primer base. Ensure full coverage for a solid foundation. Creating a Transition: On your wet palette, mix Vallejo Model Color Black with Mournfang Brown to create a transition shade. Also, prepare a mix of Balor Brown and Vallejo Ivory for a lighter transition. You’ll use these mixes to create a gradient along the horns, starting from the darkest at the base to lighter towards the tips. Applying the Transitions: Begin with the black, blending into the Mournfang Brown mix, and proceed towards the tip with Balor Brown and the Balor Brown-Ivory mix. Use a large brush for quick, broad strokes, blending directly on the model for efficient coverage. The goal is a smooth gradient from dark to light without distinct lines. Refining the Gradient: Mournfang Brown Detailing: Revisit with Mournfang Brown to accentuate the ridges and details of the horns, enhancing the transition effect. Apply it in a way that leaves some of the base gradient visible beneath, contributing to the depth of the horns’ texture. Balor Brown Highlights: Next, apply Balor Brown to continue defining the ridges, focusing on the midsections of the horns to reinforce the gradient transition. Ivory Highlights: Finish the base gradient by applying Vallejo Ivory at the tips and highest points of the horns. This step brings a sharp contrast to the horns, setting the stage for the unique green tint to be applied later. Adding the Green Tint: Iyanden Yellow Glaze Preparation: Mix Iyanden Yellow (as a substitute for Iosen Green) with water on your palette to a very thin, glaze-like consistency. This mix will be applied over the horns to give them a subtle green tint, enhancing the overall theme of the miniature. Applying the Glaze: Use a flat, wide brush to apply the glaze along the entire length of the horns, starting from the base where it’s darkest, up to where the ivory begins. Allow each layer to dry before applying the next to build up the green tint gradually without obscuring the underlying gradient. Deepening Shadows with Abaddon Black: Finally, mix a thin glaze of Abaddon Black and apply it selectively towards the base and lower sections of the horns. This step reintroduces depth and shadow lost during the glazing process, ensuring the horns maintain their dimensional appearance. Final Touches: Detailing and Corrections: Go back with your lighter colours (Balor Brown-Ivory mix and pure Ivory) to reinforce highlights or correct any overspill from the glazing process. This step ensures sharpness and clarity in the horns’ details. Assessment and Adjustment: Evaluate the overall effect, making adjustments as necessary to ensure a smooth transition between all colours and a satisfactory green tint. Protective Coating: Once completely dry and you’re satisfied with the results, consider applying a matte varnish to protect your work and reduce any unwanted glossiness from the glazing process. Video: Great Unclean One (Rotigus) Staff The goal is to achieve a vibrant, multi-hued effect that transitions from dark at the base to light and colourful at the top. Materials Needed: Vallejo Model Colour Black (or Games Workshop’s Abaddon Black as an alternative) Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide, Ceramite White, Cadian Fleshtone, Balor Brown, Moot Green, Ushabti Bone, Lothern Blue, Mournfang Brown P3’s Iosen Green (or an equivalent green from GW for similar effect) Fine detail brushes A wet palette Step-by-Step Guide to the Staff Base Coating Priming and Base Coat: Begin with a light grey primer across the entire model for uniformity, though a black primer may work better for darker elements like the staff. Apply Rhinox Hide as the base coat on the staff. Initial Colour Application Applying Base Colours: Start at the base of the staff with Vallejo Model Colour Black, blending upwards into Rhinox Hide, then to Mournfang Brown. This creates a dark to light gradient, preparing for brighter colours above. Transition and Blending Creating the Transition: Without cleaning your brush, dip into subsequent colours to facilitate wet blending directly on the model. Progress through the colours: Mournfang Brown to Fire Dragon Bright, then to Moot Green, followed by a custom blue mix, Ceramite White, and Lothern Blue. Mixing for Intermediate Shades: Where necessary, mix adjacent colours on your palette to create intermediate shades for smoother transitions. Application Technique: Apply each colour in segments, blending into the previous colour while wet to ensure a smooth gradient. The aim is for a seamless transition from dark at the base through greens, oranges, and blues, culminating in white at the tip. Detailing Highlighting: After the base gradient is complete, use lighter shades of each colour (mixes involving Ceramite White and Ushabti Bone) to highlight raised areas and textures. This step accentuates the staff’s intricate details and enhances the colour gradient’s impact. Focus on Contrast: Ensure that the top sections, especially around the twisting branches, receive adequate highlights to create a vibrant contrast between the dark base and the colourful top. Finishing Touches Additional Details: Address any minor details, such as maggots and ropes on the staff, using base colours like Rhinox Hide and highlighting appropriately to integrate them into the overall colour scheme without disrupting the gradient flow. Refinement and Adjustment: Revisit any areas requiring further blending or intensified colour saturation. Adjust highlights as necessary to maintain a consistent light source impression across the model. Conclusion and Protection Final Assessment: Review the entire piece for uniformity and depth of colour. Ensure that all transitions are smooth and that the highlights appropriately reflect the model’s contours and texture. Protective Coating: Consider applying a matte varnish to protect the paintwork and reduce any unintended shininess, ensuring the staff’s finish matches Rotigus’ overall appearance. Video: Great Unclean One Nurgling Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop Paints: Cadian Fleshtone Rhinox Hide Kislev Flesh Ceramite White Yriel Yellow Emperor’s Children Celestra Grey Skavenblight Dinge Lothern Blue Cybarite Green Abaddon Black Mournfang Brown Ushabti Bone Zamesi Desert Agrax Earthshade (for wash) Scale 75 Paints: Kalahari Orange Mars Orange Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black Ice Yellow Brushes: In the tutorial I mention using a new size 1 brush with a fine point, ideal for both general painting and fine details. A good point for precision work and the brush I was using was an Artist Opus brush! An older, rough brush is used for applying the Scale 75 paints to create a rusty texture on the chain. Step-by-Step Guide on the Nurgling Step 1: Base Colours for Skin Begin with a base of Cadian Fleshtone on the skin. Create a palette with three colour mixtures: pure Cadian Fleshtone, a 50/50 mix of Cadian Fleshtone and Rhinox Hide, and a mixture mostly of Rhinox Hide with a small amount of Cadian Fleshtone. Step 2: Painting Shadows Start with the darkest mixture (mostly Rhinox Hide) to paint creases, dark areas, and shadows. The approach here doesn’t need to be very neat; it’s more about laying down the dark tones. Step 3: Mid-tone Shading Use the mid-tone mixture for most of the shading. Avoid painting over areas that will be highlighted later, like the chest and middle of the belly. Step 4: Blending and Refining As you proceed, switch between mixtures for blending, often without washing the brush. This method helps create quick transitions. Focus on darkening areas around the edges where the Nurgling touches Rotigus for shadow effects. Step 5: Teeth and Boils For the teeth, apply a quick wash of Agrax Earthshade to outline and define them. Then, start refining the shading and blending, particularly with the mid-tone shade. Step 6: Final Skin Highlights The final skin highlights won’t be Cadian Fleshtone but a brighter colour. However, use Cadian Fleshtone initially to get all shadows in place, creating transitions where the darkest shadows show through beneath lighter layers. Step 7: Eyes and Pupils Paint the eye with Yriel Yellow for a strong, vibrant colour. Then, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to paint the pupil, ensuring it looks forward and round. Step 8: Smoke Effect Base the smoke with Lothern Blue, then use Cybarite Green mixed with a little Abaddon Black. Highlight the inner recesses of the smoke with a mixture of Lothern Blue and Ceramite White, getting lighter towards the start of the smoke. Step 9: Rusty Chain Use Scale 75 Kalahari Orange and Mars Orange for a rusty look. Apply with a rough brush for a patchy appearance. Highlight with Skavenblight Dinge, Celestra Grey, and a touch of Ushabti Bone on the raised edges to mimic worn metal. Step 10: Copper Smoke Dispenser Paint with Mournfang Brown, highlighting with Cadian Fleshtone mixed with Ice Yellow, focusing on raised edges facing upwards. Use Lothern Blue for the verdigris effect, concentrating on the recesses for a corroded look. Step 11: Horns and Tentacles Start horns with Mournfang Brown, blending into Abaddon Black towards the tip. Highlight with Skavenblight Dinge and Celestra Grey. For tentacles, use a base of Emperor’s Children mixed with a small amount of Ushabti Bone, adding horizontal lines along each tentacle. Highlight with a brighter mix of Emperor’s Children and Ceramite White, focusing on the central area. Remember, the key to this process is layering and blending, creating smooth transitions between colours. More Nurgle Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

A guide on creating a series of effects on the Plague God’s chosen servants, the Maggotkin of Nurgle, with rusty weapons, grimy copper armour and general Nurgle weathering techniques! Keep scrolling to explore the tutorials in order, or click on one of the links below to quickly jump to an a specific effect! Video – Maggotkin of Nurgle Diseased Skin Part OnePaints UsedStep by Step GuideVideo – Maggotkin of Nurgle Diseased Skin Part TwoPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo – Maggotkin of Nurgle Diseased Skin Part ThreePaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo: How to Create a Nurgle Rusty SwordMaterials Needed:Step-by-Step Guide:How to Paint NMM CopperPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step GuideHow to Paint NMM Copper Greeny Verdigris EffectPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step GuideMore Nurgle Tutorials! Video – Maggotkin of Nurgle Diseased Skin Part One Paints Used Games Workshop ‘Cadian Fleshtone’: For the base coat and blending. Scale 75 ‘Black Leather’: Used for initial detailing and creating depth in the skin. Games Workshop ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’: Mixed with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights. Games Workshop ‘Rhinox Hide’: Diluted for defining skin defects and recesses. Step by Step Guide Base Coat: Begin by applying a base coat of Games Workshop’s ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ to your model. Make sure this coat is even and covers any black primer fully. Adding Detail: Next, use Scale 75 ‘Black Leather’ for initial detailing. This paint has a softer finish, ideal for skin textures. Apply it more like a wash, targeting recessed areas to create depth. The goal here is to start developing a diseased skin look. Blending Techniques: While the ‘Black Leather’ is still wet, blend in additional ‘Cadian Fleshtone’. This stage can be a bit messy; the aim is to create a base for further refinement, not perfection. Highlight Focal Points: Consider where you want to draw the eye. Focus on areas like the centre of the chest and the top of the belly, which naturally lead the viewer’s gaze towards the head. Wet Blending: Continue mixing ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ with ‘Black Leather’ directly on the model. This wet blending creates a smoother transition between light and dark areas. Highlighting: Mix ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ with varying levels of ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’ on your palette. Use this mixture to introduce lighter colours for highlighting, enhancing the diseased skin effect. Detailing Shadows and Highlights: Focus on skin creases and folds, adding highlights to create an illusion of shadow. At this stage, precise brushwork isn’t crucial. Skin Defects: For holes in the skin, use a watered-down ‘Rhinox Hide’. It dries lighter than it appears when wet, perfect for defining recesses. Overall Balance: Regularly step back to view the whole model, ensuring a balanced look. Work on the entire model rather than focusing on individual sections. Refining Colours: Keep refining by alternating between shadows and highlights. Adjust as needed for the desired effect. Final Highlights: For the final touches, use ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’ to highlight key areas and make them stand out. Model Handling: Use a model holder to prevent oils from your skin affecting the paint job. I use Rathcore model holders. Video – Maggotkin of Nurgle Diseased Skin Part Two Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop Paints: ‘Cadian Fleshtone’: Used for base coating and blending. ‘Rhinox Hide’: Applied for deeper shading and detailing. ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’: Utilised for highlighting. ‘Skavenblight Dinge’: Employed for glazing and desaturating the skin tone. ‘Balor Brown’: Added for warmth in certain areas, enhancing the diseased look. ‘Evil Sunz Scarlet’: Used after initial issues with red tones, particularly for open sores. Scale 75 Paints: ‘Eldandil Violet’: Mentioned for specific details and effects. Step by Step Guide Setting the Scene: To begin with, I’ve already completed some preliminary work on the model. This includes filling in the teeth and tongue, which helps define the overall look. It’s important to get your contrasts right from the start. Introducing Additional Colours: In this session, I’m introducing a few extra colours compared to the previous video. I’ve got a purple for bruising and decay around wounds. This adds depth and a sense of realism to the skin. Consistency Check: A quick note on the consistency of the paints – it’s crucial for the glazes. You’ll notice I’m using Games Workshop paints like ‘Cadian Fleshtone’, ‘Rhinox Hide’, and ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’, as well as ‘Skavenblight Dinge’ and ‘Balor Brown’. I’ve also got Scale 75 ‘Eldandil Violet’ for some specific detailing. The Painting Process: The techniques I’m employing here are very similar to what I’ve done in the past – lots of layers, plenty of back-and-forth with highlighting, adding and taking away paint to blend it all seamlessly. It’s a slow process, but it yields great results. Focus on Glazing: A key aspect of this session is glazing. I’m using ‘Skavenblight Dinge’ quite a bit. It’s excellent on skin, helping to blend colours together and desaturate the skin tone, giving it a slightly dead look, fitting for a Nurgle warrior. Applying Highlights: When painting the highlights, especially as they get brighter, it’s important to focus on the model’s focal points. For this model, the focal points are the top of the belly and the middle of the chest, directing the viewer’s eyes towards the head. Addressing the Red Tones: I initially had some trouble with the red paint for the open sores, which turned out almost orange and then pink. After some trial and error, I switched to Games Workshop ‘Evil Sunz Scarlet’, which provided the consistency and colour I was looking for. Creating Contrast with Gloss: To enhance the contrast between the skin and wounds, I’m going to apply a gloss varnish over the red areas. This not only enriches the colour but also differentiates the wounds from the matte finish of the skin. Additional Skin Techniques: While focusing on the skin, it’s a good practice to work on other areas of the model too. This helps to show off the skin more effectively in context. Next Steps: In the coming parts, I’ll be working on more specific areas like the custom shoulder pad and weapons. I’m planning to paint these in a rust effect for a cohesive look. Video – Maggotkin of Nurgle Diseased Skin Part Three Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop Paints: ‘Cadian Fleshtone’: Used for base layers and blending. ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’: Applied for fine highlighting. ‘Rhinox Hide’: Utilised for deeper shadows and details. ‘Mournfang Brown’: Employed for additional detailing and shading. ‘Skavenblight Dinge’: Used for desaturating and blending. ‘Balor Brown’: Mixed for glazing and adding warmth. Scale 75 Paint: ‘Eldandil Violet’: Used for specific detailing and effects. Step by Step Guide Palette Setup: We’re continuing with the same colours as before. The skin tones are a mix of Games Workshop’s ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ and ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’. The top colour is pure ‘Cadian Fleshtone’, and the bottom is pure ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’. The middle two are various mixtures to create smooth transitions. Consistency and Control: For shadows and details, I’m using ‘Rhinox Hide’ and ‘Mournfang Brown’, slightly thicker than usual to make positive marks quickly. I also have Scale 75’s ‘Eldandil Violet’ for specific details. Glazing Techniques: The glazes are made with ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ and ‘Balor Brown’. When turning ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ into a glaze, be aware the pigment separates, appearing yellow. This separation is essential to understand when glazing, as it affects how the colour appears on the model. Desaturation with ‘Skavenblight Dinge’: To tone down the vibrancy of ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ in areas, I’m using ‘Skavenblight Dinge’. This creates a contrast between rotten and healthy-looking skin, allowing for more controlled desaturation. Refinement through Minimal Paint: The focus here is on making tiny, precise marks. I’m using very little paint on the brush, ensuring smooth, controlled application. It’s a time-consuming process, but necessary for display-level quality. Highlighting with ‘Pallid Wych Flesh’: Use this sparingly for the highest points of highlight. Too much can overwhelm the subtlety of the transitions. It’s almost like adding glimmers of light without using pure white. Brush Selection: For the finer details on the belly, I’ve switched to a size 0 Broken Toad brush, allowing for even smaller, more precise marks. Creating Shadows and Depth: I’m using ‘Rhinox Hide’ to accentuate shadows, especially in areas like the folds of flesh. This helps separate shapes and adds depth to the skin. Balancing Colour and Contrast: I’m continually adjusting the balance between the healthy and necrotic flesh. This involves layering ‘Cadian Fleshtone’ over darker areas to create a striking contrast. Vein Detailing: For the veins, I’m using a purple paint, thinned down for precision. This is applied over the flesh and then glazed over to create the illusion of veins beneath the skin. Final Touches: I’m adding small details and refining the transitions. This includes highlighting around wounds and pustules to make them stand out and add to the overall diseased appearance. Finishing the Skin: The final step involves going over the skin one last time, ensuring every detail is as sharp and refined as possible. This is crucial for achieving a high-quality finish suitable for display or competition. Video: How to Create a Nurgle Rusty Sword Materials Needed: Baking Soda Matte Varnish Old brushes Orange Paint (For this example, we’ll use Scale 75 Kalahari Orange, but any solid orange paint will do) Step-by-Step Guide: Mixing the Rust Effect: Begin by creating your rust mixture. You’ll need to combine baking soda, matte varnish, and orange paint. The exact colour of the orange paint isn’t crucial, but a solid orange like Scale 75 Kalahari Orange is recommended for authenticity. Mix these ingredients together. You don’t need any specialised tools for mixing; anything you have to hand will suffice. Adjusting Consistency: The mixture might appear a bit dry initially. If it’s too clumpy, thin it down with more varnish. Remember, the more varnish you add, the stronger and more hard-wearing the mixture becomes. This also helps to seal the baking soda against any acidic elements. Aim for an intense, well-bound mixture. It should dry lighter in colour, so don’t be alarmed by the initial appearance. Application on the Model: Use an old brush for application; this mixture isn’t kind to brushes. An older, slightly worn brush is ideal. Apply the mixture to the desired areas of your model. It’s a somewhat passive process; you don’t have to be overly precise. The mixture will be akin to a psyche in gel, so aim for an uneven surface. Too thin an application will just look like spread-out grains. Focus on clumping the mixture slightly for a more realistic rust effect. If applied too thinly, it won’t have the desired impact. Creating Texture: After applying, use a stippling technique with your brush to spread out the grains at the edges. This helps to soften the transition from the rusted areas to the clean areas of the model. Continue dabbing at the mixture to spread it and create a texture that resembles rust accumulating on the blade or other parts of the model. Final Touches: Once applied, the mixture might look a bit smooth, but don’t worry. As it dries, it will gain a more defined, grainy rust-like texture. To enhance the effect, you can apply a very watered-down coat of a darker paint, like Rhinox Hide, after the rust mixture has dried. Finishing Up: Allow your model to dry completely. Once dry, you should see a realistic rust effect, adding depth and character to your piece. How to Paint NMM Copper Paints and Materials Brush Size and Type: Don’t use a tiny detail brush for the entire process. Instead, a slightly larger, older brush is preferred. My older brush has a worn tip, which is thicker than a new brush and allows for better paint control and blending. An old, well-used brush is good for this type of painting. The worn tip of an older brush can make blending easier. Paints Used Games Workshop: Doombull Brown, Golden Yellow (old colour; find a modern equivalent if needed) Scale 75: Ice Yellow, Salmon Pink, Black Red Black and White paint (any preferred brand) Step-by-Step Guide Understanding Copper NMM: Remember, copper NMM aims to create a metallic effect without using metallic paints. Copper is essentially pink in hue, similar to skin tones, with brown for shadows and a hint of sand yellow. Preparation of Palette: On your wet palette, blend all the colours together into one smear. This is because copper has a lot of subtleties in colouring. Start with Doombull Brown and mix in Black Red from Scale 75. If you don’t have Black Red, mix black and red to achieve a dark, reddish brown. Creating the Base Colour: For the darker areas of copper, you want something a bit more red. Along your paint smear on the palette, integrate colours that become more yellow and orange. Use Golden Yellow and Ice Yellow for this purpose. Add Salmon Pink at the very end for highlights. Applying the Base Layer: Before starting the video, paint the whole model (or the part you’re working on) with Doombull Brown. This creates an easier starting point for the copper effect. Mixing on the Model: You’ll be mixing the paint directly on the model, working quickly. This method is different but effective for creating copper NMM. Apply the colours and quickly determine where the highlights will be. The idea is to get lighter colours down first as a base to work from. Developing the Effect: Start blending in reflections and refining the look. Add lighter colours and work on creating smooth transitions and contrast. Remember, smooth transitions and good contrast are key in NMM painting. Refining the Details: As you progress, you’ll refine the copper effect by using thinner paint and increasing contrast. Use Salmon Pink for the higher highlights and blend it in for a smooth transition. Final Touches: Towards the end, focus on refining the paint with continual glazes until it looks smooth and metallic. You might need to make slight adjustments to the highlights and shadows. Add black, turned into a glaze, at the bottom of the shoulder pad to increase contrast. Final Overview: The final piece should showcase a refined copper NMM effect with smooth transitions, proper contrasts, and a realistic metallic look. How to Paint NMM Copper Greeny Verdigris Effect Paints and Materials Games Workshop Sybarite Green P3 Morrow White (or your preferred white paint) Step-by-Step Guide Understanding Verdigris: Verdigris is a patina that forms on copper, brass, or bronze when exposed to air or seawater over time. This guide aims to create a more realistic effect, where verdigris covers larger areas rather than just around rivets and crevices. Creating Verdigris Tones: You will mix Sybarite Green with Morrow White to create three stages of verdigris tones: First Stage: Pure Sybarite Green. Second Stage: A mix of half Sybarite Green and half Morrow White. Third Stage: Mostly Morrow White with a tint of Sybarite Green. Applying the First Layer: Start with the pure Sybarite Green. Apply it by gently dabbing it onto the model. The goal is to create a patchy texture rather than smooth streaks. This layer should cover most of the area, but try to maintain the shades and shine of the underlying metallic paint. Mid-tone Application: Next, apply the second stage mix (half Sybarite Green, half Morrow White). This should be used more sparingly than the first layer. Focus on applying this mix to darker areas and recesses. You want to maintain visibility of the copper NMM base, so apply it carefully and artistically. Adding Highlights: For the final layer, use the lightest mix (mostly Morrow White with a hint of Sybarite Green). This is like a reverse highlight, working best in shadows to create contrast. Apply this very selectively, as it can quickly cover the base layers. It should go into the deepest recesses and lower curved areas where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Final Touches: Remember, verdigris should have an uneven, patchy appearance. It should not be smooth or uniformly applied like rust. Check your work against reference images to ensure a natural look. Finishing Up: After applying all three stages, your model should exhibit a realistic verdigris effect over the copper. The underlying NMM copper should still be visible, contributing to the overall realism. More Nurgle Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Here I show you how to create a Nurgle Rusty Sword in this simple but very effective way! You can use it to create a rusty effect on your Nurgle weapons, or on armour. Video: How to Create a Nurgle Rusty Sword Materials Needed: Baking Soda Matte Varnish Old brushes Orange Paint (For this example, we’ll use Scale 75 Kalahari Orange, but any solid orange paint will do) Step-by-Step Guide: Mixing the Rust Effect: Begin by creating your rust mixture. You’ll need to combine baking soda, matte varnish, and orange paint. The exact colour of the orange paint isn’t crucial, but a solid orange like Scale 75 Kalahari Orange is recommended for authenticity. Mix these ingredients together. You don’t need any specialised tools for mixing; anything you have to hand will suffice. Adjusting Consistency: The mixture might appear a bit dry initially. If it’s too clumpy, thin it down with more varnish. Remember, the more varnish you add, the stronger and more hard-wearing the mixture becomes. This also helps to seal the baking soda against any acidic elements. Aim for an intense, well-bound mixture. It should dry lighter in colour, so don’t be alarmed by the initial appearance. Application on the Model: Use an old brush for application; this mixture isn’t kind to brushes. An older, slightly worn brush is ideal. Apply the mixture to the desired areas of your model. It’s a somewhat passive process; you don’t have to be overly precise. The mixture will be akin to a psyche in gel, so aim for an uneven surface. Too thin an application will just look like spread-out grains. Focus on clumping the mixture slightly for a more realistic rust effect. If applied too thinly, it won’t have the desired impact. Creating Texture: After applying, use a stippling technique with your brush to spread out the grains at the edges. This helps to soften the transition from the rusted areas to the clean areas of the model. Continue dabbing at the mixture to spread it and create a texture that resembles rust accumulating on the blade or other parts of the model. Final Touches: Once applied, the mixture might look a bit smooth, but don’t worry. As it dries, it will gain a more defined, grainy rust-like texture. To enhance the effect, you can apply a very watered-down coat of a darker paint, like Rhinox Hide, after the rust mixture has dried. Finishing Up: Allow your model to dry completely. Once dry, you should see a realistic rust effect, adding depth and character to your piece. More Tutorials on Rust, Grime and Weathering If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

There are lots of textures and fine details on the feet and face of Mortarion – here’s how to paint Mortarions Face, Feet and Hood! Quick Jump to: Video: Face and footStep-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Face and footVideo: Hood Part 1Step-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Hood – Part OneVideo: Head and Hood Part 2Step-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Head and Hood – Part TwoVideos Not Showing? Video: Face and foot This video shows how to lighten the face of Mortarion and also how to paint the weathering on his armour. The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Ceramite White, Flayed One Flesh, Pallid Wych Flesh, Ushabti Bone, Rhinox Hide. Step-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Face and foot Glazing for Face Lightening: Prepare a glaze using Games Workshop’s Flayed One Flesh paint and water (about 5 parts water to 1 part paint).Load the brush with the glaze and remove excess paint on kitchen roll.Apply thin layers of glaze to the face, focusing on central areas like the forehead, bridge of the nose, and cheeks.Be careful not to let the glaze pool in the recesses. Keep adjusting to maintain control over the layering.Pallid Wych Flesh Detailing: Use Games Workshop’s Pallid Wych Flesh, a thicker paint, to highlight the top of creases on the face.Build up contrast between creases and highlights gradually to create a natural look.Ensure that the creases are lightened, but maintain a balance with the overall lighting on the face.Final Highlight with Games Workshop’s Ceramite White: Apply Games Workshop’s Ceramite White to the highest points of the face, focusing on central areas.Use a controlled technique to avoid overdoing the highlights.Maintain subtlety and control over the white highlights for a natural effect.Chip-Weathering on Armor: Choose Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide for chipping on the armor.Apply the paint with a brush, creating small marks on the model.Leave some patches of white paint between the chipped areas for added interest.Consider the positioning of chips, focusing on areas that would naturally experience wear and tear.Use a colour-coded brush to keep track of the tool’s usage and maintain control.Refining the Chipping: Adjust the thickness of the chipping lines to control the visual impact.Ensure that the chipping looks natural and not too high in contrast.Pay attention to the bottom of the foot, adjusting the highlighting based on the foot’s position.Add more chips on areas that would naturally experience more damage, like the front side of the leg. Video: Hood Part 1 The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Abaddon Black, Temple Guard Blue, Xereus Purple, Balor Brown Vallejo: Black (Abaddon Black), Heavy Blue Grey (Celestra Grey), German Grey (Abaddon Black with a touch of white) P3: Morrow White (Ceramite White) Step-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Hood – Part One Prepare the Model: Ensure that the Mortarion model’s hood has been properly primed in black. Fill in any gaps resulting from assembling the model using polystyrene cement. Sand down the gaps to create a smoother surface. Gather Paints and Tools:On your wet palette, prepare the following paints: Abaddon Black (Games Workshop)Temple Guard Blue (Games Workshop)Xereus Purple (Games Workshop)Balor Brown (Games Workshop)German Grey (Vallejo) – Mix Abaddon Black with a touch of whiteHeavy Blue Grey (Vallejo) – Celestra Grey (Games Workshop)Morrow White (P3) – Ceramite White (Games Workshop)Tools:Older paintbrush (to avoid quick wear)Size zero artist brush (for finer details)Palette for mixing paintsAbaddon black for glazingBase Coat with Blue: Take the older paintbrush and apply Temple Guard Blue onto the model’s hood. Alternate between German Grey and Temple Guard Blue for a quick blended look. Focus on the edges and tendrils, applying more blue to create a weathered effect. Refine with Finer Brush: Switch to the size zero artist brush and refine the texture. Pay attention to the spikes on top of Mortarion’s head, making them stand out against the dark color. Apply both German Grey and Temple Guard Blue in a more controlled manner. Add Black for Shading: Introduce deeper shading by mixing Abaddon Black with a small amount of water. Use the finer brush to apply this mixture to specific areas, enhancing the three-dimensional effect. Glaze with Red: Create a glaze using Abaddon Black and Xereus Purple (or any purple paint). Start near the highlights and work into the shadows, allowing the glaze to enhance the color variance. Repeat this process to build up the desired tone. How to paint Mortarions Face: Once the hood is painted, focus on the face. Be cautious around the details, such as the eyes and eyelids. Use Balor Brown for shadows and then apply Morrow White to pick out fine details. Pay attention to the eyes, painting them with a brighter yellow for contrast. Fine-Tune and Experiment: Continue fine-tuning the paintwork, experimenting with glazes and additional details. Remember to test the paint consistency on a spare surface before applying it to the model. Glaze and Highlight: Keep glazing over the areas, especially the highlights, to add depth. Use minimal amounts of paint to pick out final highlights, enhancing the overall texture and making it look three-dimensional. Video: Head and Hood Part 2 Vallejo: Neutral Grey : Skavenblight Dinge German Grey (Abaddon Black with a touch of white) English Uniform (XV-88) Japanese Uniform (Balor Brown) Ice Yellow (Ushabti Bone with a touch of yellow) Heavy Blue Grey (Celestra Grey) Black (Abaddon Black) Games Workshop: Emperor’s Children Rhinox Hide P3: P3: Morrow White (Ceramite White) Step-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Head and Hood – Part Two How to paint Mortarions Face and Eyes: Start with a black paint (Vallejo: Black) to paint the pupils and cover the iris.Use Vallejo: Heavy Blue Grey (Celestra Grey) to paint the eyes themselves, avoiding pure white to create a more natural look.Consider painting cataracts initially but feel free to change to red and blue eyes for a magical effect.Highlighting the Eyes: Use Vallejo: White to highlight the lower edge of the eyes, creating a subtle, realistic contrast.Paint the iris around the black dots to add depth and detail to the eyes.Painting the Metal Halo: Apply a base coat of Vallejo: English Uniform (XV-88) on the metal halo, ensuring it’s less saturated than other gold areas on the model.Use Vallejo: Neutral Grey to blend into crevices and scratches, creating a reverse shading effect.Add Vallejo: Morrow White (Ceramite White) to blend in some warmth and detail.Rebreather Cylinders: Highlight the cylinders with a mix of Vallejo: Ice Yellow (Ushabti Bone with a touch of yellow) and Vallejo: Black.Blend in some of the previous colours to add more detail and scratches.Use Games Workshop: Emperor’s Children for the tubing, and highlight with Vallejo: English Uniform (XV-88).Cabling and Tubes: Highlight cabling with a mix of Vallejo: White and Vallejo: English Uniform (XV-88).Pay attention to angles and details, painting from one angle along the length to maintain consistency.Add final highlights sparingly using Vallejo: Ice Yellow (Ushabti Bone with a touch of yellow).Fleshy Details: Paint the stringy flesh between canisters with Vallejo: Rhinox Hide for an organic look.Use Vallejo: Evil Sunz Scarlet as a glaze to transition light hitting the piping while maintaining details.Final Touches: Paint black ribbing on the inside of the lower tube with Vallejo: Neutral Grey and highlight with Vallejo: Heavy Blue Grey (Celestra Grey).Ensure all details are well-defined and consistent. More Mortarion? Right this way: Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

I had to make the Nurgling companions of Mortarion have wings to match their master! Here is How to Paint Freehand Tiny Nurgle Wings, with two videos, paints and a step-by-step guide. How to Paint Freehand Tiny Nurgle Wings : Part One The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Ushabti Bone, Kislev Flesh, Cadian Fleshtone, Bugmans Glow, Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Model Colour Black (Abaddon Black) Step by Step: How to Paint Freehand Tiny Nurgle Wings Preparation Before you begin painting the cherub wings on your Mortarion model, ensure you have the necessary paints and tools. The paints used in this tutorial are Rhinox Hide, Bugmans Glow, Ushabti Bone, Kislev Flesh, Cadian Fleshtone, and Vallejo Model Colour Black (equivalent to Abaddon Black). Additionally, you’ll need a wet palette, a size double zero artist opus brush, and a scalpel. Wing Preparation Prepare the cherub wings by carefully removing any sculpted veins with a scalpel. Sand down the wings, apply glue to smooth the details, and then give them a black prime. Use an airbrush to apply a quick layer of Ushabti Bone to create a base. Base Layer Start with a 50/50 mix of Rhinox Hide and Bugmans Glow. Using the tip of your size double zero brush, apply this mixture to the wings, building up layers to achieve a translucent effect. This darker base will allow for easier highlighting later. Painting Details Using the tip of your brush, paint the lines and details on the wings with Rhinox Hide. Be mindful of the small scale, adapting the details as needed. Focus on creating flowing lines that follow the contours of the wings. Adding Depth Mix Kislev Flesh and Cadian Fleshtone on the wet palette. Apply this mixture to highlight the lines painted with Rhinox Hide. This glazing technique adds depth without excessive layering, providing a smooth transition. Eyes and Black Details Using Vallejo Model Colour Black, paint the eyes on the wings. Don’t worry about the size; you’ll refine them later. This step helps balance tones on the model. Use the tip of the brush to paint black details, such as spikes or dots, around the wings. Veins and Highlights Switch to Kislev Flesh and paint in the veins on the wings. Ensure they are clear and defined. Gradually build up highlights using Cadian Fleshtone and Ushabti Bone, focusing on edges and details. Soften transitions for a more natural look. Refining and Tweaking Continuously refine and tweak the details as you go along. Adjust the size and position of the eyes, ensuring they complement the overall composition. Use the wet palette for any necessary paint mixing. Final Touches Highlight imperfections in the wings, emphasizing dimensional details. Pay attention to areas underneath the eyes, adapting details to fit the small scale. Continue refining until you achieve the desired depth and clarity. All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. How to Paint Freehand Tiny Nurgle Wings: Part Two The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Kislev Flesh, Cadian Fleshtone, Rhinox Hide, Bugman’s Glow, Ushabti Bone, Ceramite White, Moot Green, Warpstone Glow, Sotek Green, Mephiston Red, Fire Dragon Bright, Waaagh! FleshVallejo: Black, Pale Blue Grey Step by Step: How to Paint Freehand Tiny Nurgle Wings Softening Previous Details Commence by gently blending and softening the details on the wings painted in the previous video. Utilize a glaze mixture of approximately five parts water to one part paint, specifically using Rhinox Hide, to seamlessly merge and soften the fleshing marks on the wings. Painting the Whites of the Eyes Proceed to paint the whites of the eyes with Kislev Flesh. Ensure to leave a small gap at the top of the eye to introduce a subtle shadow effect. Apply clean and flesh tones, directing your strokes towards you for a polished finish. Building Up Highlights on the Eyes Employ a slightly thicker paint to build up highlights on the whites of the eyes. Introduce a pale blue-gray colour later for a desaturated effect. Apply highlights by initiating strokes on the left-hand side, moving towards the centre, and then returning to the right-hand side, drawing towards the centre again for more pronounced highlights at the bottom. Adding Organic Details Apply Ryza Oxide to paint small dots around the eyes, creating an organic and three-dimensional appearance. Exercise caution to avoid disrupting existing lines, maintaining the realism of veins. Green Dots and Highlights Use Waaagh! Flesh and Moot Green to paint green dots around the tear duct area. Enhance the green dots by applying a line along the bottom right edge and a dot on the top left for a glossy bubble effect. Painting the Iris and Pupil For the blue eye, use Sotek Green and Mint Green to paint a ring around the lower section of the eye to represent the iris. The actual grey doesn’t matter; choose a light grey for painting reflections, ensuring a realistic and shiny appearance. Start with Vallejo Pale Blue Grey to paint a ring around the lower section of the eye to represent the iris. The actual grey doesn’t matter; choose a light grey for painting reflections, ensuring a realistic and shiny appearance. Highlight the iris with Ceramite White, adding a few strokes to enhance the glossy effect. Complete the red eye by applying Mephiston Red to the entire iris and pupil area. Use Fire Dragon Bright to add small lines separating the circles on the iris. Apply a highlight using Vallejo Pale Blue Grey, ensuring to maintain the same technique as with the blue eye. More Mortarion Tutorials: Videos Not Showing? 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A set of video tutorials on How to Paint Mortarions Wings, with paints and step-by-step guides on freehand. Demon Wing Details First steps and basics For a pdf on how I cleaned the wing ready for painting, visit : https://richardgraycreations.com/mortarion-wing-prep-pdf/ ) All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Demon Wing Details: Part One The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Yriel Yellow, Kislev Flesh, Cadian Fleshtone, Moot Green, Xereus Purple, Evil Sunz Scarlet*note, in the video I show Emperor’s Children and Death Guard Green. These were not used in this video. Vallejo: Ivory Demon Wing Details: Part Two The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Xereus Purple, Valejo: Ivory Demon Wing Details: Part Three The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Rhinox Hde, Xereus Purple, Vallejo Model Colour: Ivory Step by Step Tips: How to Paint Mortarions Wings – Demon Wing Details Part One: Prepare the Model: Confirm that the model has been properly primed, and any base colors, such as carmine, have been applied. Take a moment to inspect the model and identify any pre-painted outlines or details. Outline with Rhinox Hide: Utilise Rhinox Hide to start painting the outlines on the wings. This step involves creating the base pattern and initial details. Opt for Rhinox Hide over black to match the desired fleshy tone of the wings. Paint Veins with Xereus Purple: Select Xereus Purple to paint the vein-like details on the wings. Use a larger brush for broader coverage and to establish the initial structure. The combination of Xereus Purple and Rhinox Hide will give a dark, diseased appearance to the veins. Add Variation to Veins: Pay attention to the thickness and variation of the veins. Make deliberate wiggles and different shapes to create depth and interest. Ensure that the veins go over some of the previously painted thick lines for a more realistic effect. Consider Viscosity of Paint: Observe the viscosity of the paint; it should be thick enough to allow for fine lines. This is crucial for painting detailed and thin veins. You can load the brush more freely when using a thicker paint. Add Vein Details: Paint thin lines of purple coming out from certain areas, resembling veins spreading out. Use the thickness of the brush to your advantage, allowing for both longer lines and finer details. Introduce Spot Colours: Incorporate spot colours using Moot Green from Games Workshop. These spots will contrast with the purple, adding visual interest to specific areas, like craters on the wings. Highlight Veins: Highlight the veins by using Kislev Flesh, creating a raised vein effect. This will add depth and dimension to the wing. Soften Edges and Add Shadows: Use glue to soften edges and make the veins appear less pustule-like. Introduce shadow areas around the veins to enhance the three-dimensional look. Plan Lighting Directions: Consider the lighting directions on the model. Reflective lights and multiple light sources can contribute to a realistic 3D effect. Think about how the light interacts with the various elements on the wings. Part Two: Set Up Your Palette: Arrange your paints on the wet palette, as shown in the top right corner of the video. Let them mix a bit for added variation in your application. Begin with Cadian Fleshtone: Using Cadian Fleshtone, highlight the small segments between the veins. Focus on the upper areas to mimic light hitting from above. Use Reasonable Dilution: Ensure the paint is reasonably diluted, allowing for smoother application. As you’re highlighting, create the impression of shadows by avoiding direct application on dark vein edges. Utilise Mournfang Brown and Xereus Purple: Outline details with Mournfang Brown, and use Xereus Purple to add depth. These details may evolve organically as you progress. Fine-tune with a Sharp Brush: For fine details, use a sharp-tipped brush. Paint slightly thicker than usual, taking advantage of the wet palette to maintain consistency. Create Organic Look: Emphasise the fleshy and organic feel by avoiding a precise pattern. Moths and butterflies inspire the style, but the focus is on a fleshy appearance. Observe Light Source: Keep the light source in mind while highlighting. Work on veins to create shadows, ensuring a dynamic and realistic look. Add Transition Colours: Utilise mixed-up areas on the palette for transition colours. This adds depth and enhances the shadow effect, especially on larger, rounder areas. Experiment with Xereus Purple Outlining: Experiment with Xereus Purple outlining to enhance details. Remember, fine details may evolve as you progress, creating a unique and organic look. Balance the Details: Constantly tweak and balance details as you go. Ensure the veins, fleshy areas, and fine details complement each other for a cohesive appearance. Keep Consistency: Maintain consistency in the colour palette but vary the ratio of colours. This provides variation while adhering to a cohesive theme. Avoid Exaggeration: While enhancing details, avoid exaggeration. The goal is to create an organic, fleshy look without turning it into a three-dimensional eyeball. Part Three: Understand the Existing Freehand Progress: Examine the progress of the freehand on the model, especially the veins and patterns. Note that Rhinox Hide comes in two versions, with the thinner one used for glazes and quick transitions. Begin Painting the Veins: Start with Rhinox Hide to paint veins, emphasizing the connections and flow between them. Be mindful of curves and avoid making the veins look too straight or jarring. Create Veins as Eyelashes: Connect the veins to the eye, using them as eyelashes. This adds a unique and natural touch to the model, representing an organic connection between the eye and wing. Add Variation to Veins Around Holes: Paint veins around holes using Xereus Purple, varying the pattern to avoid repetition. Darken the area around the hole for contrast and tonal variation. Adjusting Freehand for a Cohesive Look: As the freehand progresses, ensure that the details flow well with each other, avoiding a disconnected appearance. Veins should follow the natural contours of the wing. Layering for Depth: Layer veins to create depth, using Kislev Flesh and Ivory for highlights. This technique makes the veins appear more 3D and layered. Darken and Outline: Darken certain areas using Rhinox Hide to create shadows and depth. Outline veins and details to make them stand out clearly. Highlighting and Refining: Use Vallejo Ivory to highlight specific sections, creating contrast and emphasizing the shapes. Continuously refine and tweak details, keeping an eye on the overall picture. Glazing for Smooth Transitions and Shapes: Use glazing to create smooth transitions between different paint layers. This is particularly useful for blending colours seamlessly. Apply glazes to emphasise the shapes of painted sections, ensuring a smooth and coherent look. Final Touches: Continue refining details, emphasising shapes, and making any final adjustments. Take your time to ensure a high-quality finish. How To Paint Mortarions Wings: Blue Eye The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Cybarite White, Flayed One Flesh, Doombull Brown, Balor Brown, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Lothern Blue, Ahriman Blue (optional) Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Ultramarine Blue, Night Blue (optional) Black, Pale Grey Blue P3: Ryn Flesh Step by Step Tips: How to Paint Mortarions Wings – Blue Eye Start with the Blue Detail on the Eyes: Commence the process by using Ultramarine Blue to paint a circle in the center of the existing black circle on the wing. Precision isn’t crucial at this point; you can refine it later. Refine the Blue Circle: Utilize black paint to clean up and refine the edges of the blue circle, serving as a guideline for the forthcoming details. Add Fine Details with Ultramarine Blue: Apply Ultramarine Blue to create fine lines and intricate details within the circle, representing the complex features of the eye. Allow the lines to follow the organic nature of the wing. Highlight the Blue Details: Use Flayed One Flesh to highlight selected blue details, creating a smooth transition between colours and enhancing the eye’s three-dimensional appearance. Introduce Pale Brown for Depth: Apply Pale Brown to add depth to the eye, concentrating on the lower section of the white. Be cautious not to use excessive paint to preserve the details from earlier steps. Create Highlights with Flayed One Flesh: Revisit Flayed One Flesh to introduce highlights on the blue details, enhancing the overall aesthetic of the eye. Glaze with Pale Grey Blue: Create a glaze using Pale Grey Blue and apply it to specific areas of the eye. This will help blend colours and add a layered effect to the strands and details. Add Red Veins and Details: Carefully reintroduce red veins, resembling eyelashes from the bottom of the eye. Utilize a dragging motion with the brush for precise lines. Correct Mistakes and Refine Detail: If any mistakes occur, use black paint to rectify errors and refine the intricate details, maintaining attention to the shape and flow of the lines. Final Touches on Reflections: Add reflections to the eye using semi-white to highlight the central part of the reflection. Consider the light source and aim for a realistic and captivating result. How To Paint Mortarions Wings: Demon Eye The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Rhinox Hide Doombull Brown, Zamesi Desert, Yriel Yellow, Moot Green Temple Guard Blue, Sotek Green, Abaddon Black, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Ceramite WhiteVallejo Model Colour: Ivory, BlackP3: Iosen Green (GW Warpstone Glow alternative) Ryn Flesh Step by Step Tips: How to Paint Mortarions Wings – Demon Eye Outline the Pupil: Begin by outlining the pupil of the eye. Focus on the inner shape rather than the outer, as you can fix any wonkiness later. Paint the Iris: Using a spread-out pattern, carefully paint the lines of the iris, starting from the center and moving outwards. Use a lighter colour to highlight some imperfections and indentations on the wing. Refine the Lines: Separate the lines, especially around the Nurgle symbol. Use Abaddon Black as a rubber to create a rough outline and add depth to the design. Introduce Different Colours: Experiment with different colours such as Temple Guard Blue and Wild Rider Red to add layers and details. Don’t be afraid to mix colours on the brush for a varied effect. Paint the Sclera: Apply Temple Guard Blue to the sclera, ensuring a smooth transition from the red, and be cautious not to paint over the detailed lines. Enhance Highlights: Use Ceramite White to brighten the eyes, creating a strong contrast. Paint carefully, following the shape of the eye for a rounded and natural look. Add Veins: Use Mephiston Red to paint veins onto the white of the eye, creating a realistic effect. Keep the lines subtle and centered for a natural appearance. Apply Glazes: Use glazes to soften transitions and tie the piece together. Deploy glazes by loading the brush from the wet palette. Final Highlights: Highlight with Ivory to emphasize details on the veins and enhance the overall look. Add Reflections: Apply White to the reflections on the eye to give it a lifelike and 3D effect. Create Wetness Effect: Using a small amount of Kislev Flesh or a similar colour, add small irregular dots to represent the wetness of the eye. Need more Mortarion? Check out the other tutorial videos, below: Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

A video tutorial with paints and a step-by-step guide on How to Paint Mortarions Blue Eye on his wings. How to Paint Mortarions Blue Eye The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Cybarite White, Flayed One Flesh, Doombull Brown, Balor Brown, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Lothern Blue, Ahriman Blue (optional) Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Ultramarine Blue, Night Blue (optional) Black, Pale Grey Blue P3: Ryn Flesh Step by Step Tips: How to Paint Mortarions Blue Eye Start with the Blue Detail on the Eyes: Commence the process by using Ultramarine Blue to paint a circle in the center of the existing black circle on the wing. Precision isn’t crucial at this point; you can refine it later. Refine the Blue Circle: Use black paint to clean up and refine the edges of the blue circle, serving as a guideline for the forthcoming details. Add Fine Details with Ultramarine Blue: Apply Ultramarine Blue to create fine lines and intricate details within the circle, representing the complex features of the eye. Allow the lines to follow the organic nature of the wing. Highlight the Blue Details: Use Flayed One Flesh to highlight selected blue details, creating a smooth transition between colours and enhancing the eye’s three-dimensional appearance. Introduce Pale Brown for Depth: Apply Pale Brown to add depth to the eye, concentrating on the lower section of the white. Be cautious not to use excessive paint to preserve the details from earlier steps. Create Highlights with Flayed One Flesh: Revisit Flayed One Flesh to introduce highlights on the blue details, enhancing the overall aesthetic of the eye. Glaze with Pale Grey Blue: Create a glaze using Pale Grey Blue and apply it to specific areas of the eye. This will help blend colours and add a layered effect to the strands and details. Add Red Veins and Details: Carefully reintroduce red veins, resembling eyelashes from the bottom of the eye. Utilize a dragging motion with the brush for precise lines. Correct Mistakes and Refine Detail: If any mistakes occur, use black paint to rectify errors and refine the intricate details, maintaining attention to the shape and flow of the lines. Final Touches on Reflections: Add reflections to the eye using semi-white to highlight the central part. All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Need more Mortarion? Check out the other tutorial videos, below: Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to paint a Deathshroud Terminator Cloak using freehand. This model won me a Golden Demon in 2017! These models represent the grotesque and decay-themed warriors of Nurgle, a faction known for their resilience and corrupted, plague-ridden aesthetics. So, in these tutorials we are aiming to enhance the models’ appearance with detailed faces and textures on their cloaks! Quick note here – these are some of my earliest tutorial videos, so are not of the same quality as my current tutorials visually and sound-wise. My apologies for this.Richard Video: Deathshroud Terminator Red Cloak This process results in a textured, worn cloak suitable for a Death Shroud Terminator, using a simple but effective painting technique. Materials and Paints Used Gal Vorbak Red (Forge World) Cadian Fleshtone (Games Workshop) Eldandil Violet (Scalecolour Fantasy) Step by Step Guide Base Coat: Start with Gal Vorbak Red as the primary colour. Detailing and Texture: Use Cadian Fleshtone for adding highlights and texture, creating a worn and mouldy appearance. Shading: Apply Eldandil Violet for shading in the recesses, enhancing depth and wear. Glazing with Evil Sunz Scarlet: Use it as a glaze to add warmth to the cloak. Refining Texture: Focus on cross-hatching movements to build texture, emphasizing the worn look. Final Touches: Add further glazes and highlights to refine the texture and depth, tailoring the effect to your desired level of detail. Video: Deathshroud Terminator Cloak Freehand Materials and Paints Used The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Heavy Brown, Cork Brown, Ice Yellow, Black P3: Battlefield Brown *Note, Morrow White was not actually used in this video, but is used in part 2. Step by Step Guide Preparation: I used a test model to experiment with my design concept. This approach allows you to refine the freehand pattern before applying it to the main models. Base Colours: Apply Vallejo Heavy Brown as a foundational colour. Enhance the base with Cork Brown for a richer texture. Use Rhinox Hide to outline the design, ensuring the lines are crisp and distinct. Detailing: Carefully mark the eye sockets with black paint, paying attention to the cloak’s folds. These details will add depth and character to the freehand design. Highlighting: Utilize Ice Yellow for highlights. This step involves blending the highlights with the base colors to achieve a natural, integrated look. The highlights should accentuate the topography of the cloak and enhance the freehand design. Shading: Use Battlefield Brown to deepen the shadows and add complexity to the design. This shade will create a more dynamic and realistic appearance on the cloak. Finishing Touches: Review the entire design, making final adjustments for consistency and balance. Focus on refining the freehand artwork, ensuring it harmonizes with the cloak’s texture and the overall theme of the model. Video: Deathshroud Terminator Cloak Freehand Refinement Materials and Paints Used The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Cadian Fleshtone, Pallid Wych Flesh, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Loren Forest, Nurgling Green, Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Cork Brown, Black, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Heavy Brown P3: Battlefield Brown, Morrow White Step by Step Guide Base Preparation: Start by painting a rough base of fleshy shapes using Cadian Fleshtone. This initial layer doesn’t need to be perfect or smooth. Detailing Ears and Face: Add ears to distinguish the image from a skull, creating a more zombie-like face. Use Kadeem Flesh Tone for this step. Sketching Flesh and Bone: Sketch out areas where flesh appears torn or missing, revealing bone underneath. This technique enhances the undead appearance and integrates the existing skull highlights. Adding White Highlights: Use Pallid Wych Flesh to accentuate bone areas, making them stand out from the flesh tone. Painting the Eyes: Employ Neutral Grey, followed by Pale Grey Blue for the eyes. Add white dots in the center and top left corner of each eye for a lifelike effect. Mouth and Teeth Details: Refine the mouth and teeth using Rhinox Hide and Ice Yellow for highlights. Focus on defining the teeth shapes and adding depth to the mouth. Adding Texture to Flesh: Use Bugman’s Glow and other flesh tones to create textured, worn skin. Apply these tones in layers, allowing the underlying skull details to peek through. Final Touches: Finish by adding fine details and additional highlights to enhance the depth and realism of the freehand design. The key to this process is building up the layers gradually, refining the details as you go, a More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide All Deathshroud Bodyguard Video Tutorials Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard A series of video tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Watch Now More Freehand Tips: If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

A series of videos on how to paint Mortarions green armour! Follow along with a paint guide, video and step-by-step instructions. My Mortarion won Gold in Golden Demon 2019. Quick note on the white paint I use – with Ceramite White not an option, apparently Corax White is the replacement, but really I don’t think it matters too much which white you use, eg Valleho white, Two Thin Coats, White Star etc! How to Paint Mortarions Green Armour: Basic colours and knee armour All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Death Guard Green, Ushabti Bone, Ceramite White, Incubis Darkness. Step-by-step: How to Paint Mortarions Green Armour: Basic colours and knee armour Prepare Your Model: Ensure that the base colour (Death Guard green) has been sprayed onto the model. It can be applied using an airbrush or by hand painting.Shadow Bone Base Layer: Use a small brush to apply Ushabti Bone directly on top of the Death Guard green. Apply it roughly to create a textured and rough appearance.Use the side of the brush to avoid filling in details, especially in areas with corrosion or small holes.Directional Lighting: Maintain a consistent light source direction for the entire model. In this case, the lighting is from the top left.Use the side of the brush to catch the edges of details and create shadows where needed.Building Layers: Apply multiple layers of Ushabti Bone, allowing each layer to dry. This builds up texture and depth on the armour. The paint should be fairly watered-down to allow for a gradual transition and darker appearance upon drying.Ceramite White Highlights: Apply Ceramite White on top of Ushabti Bone, following the same process as before but in a reduced area. Highlight the sculpted details and the simple dark areas left by the previous layer.Fine Detailing: Use a small brush to add finer details, such as dimples and small marks, using both Ushabti Bone and Ceramite White. Take care with areas that will be hidden, as they can still be visible from certain angles.Shading with Incubis Darkness: Introduce Incubis Darkness for shading, especially in areas like the holes in the armour. Darken these areas to add contrast. Use the same directional lighting approach for shading.Gold Trim Consideration: Be mindful of the upcoming gold trim painting, as it will affect the surrounding painted areas.Final Details and Blending: Fine-tune details, especially in areas like the knee, ensuring that the lighting direction is consistent.Blend colours using a wet palette for a smoother transition between shades.Yellow Details: Consider using a yellow paint, such as Averland Sunset, for adding small details like dots in the centre of holes NMM (non metallic metal) armour trim The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Yriel Yellow, Rhinox Hide, Firedragon Bright, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown Vallejo: Ice Yellow Step-by-step: How to Paint NMM (non metallic metal) armour trim Prepare Your Workspace: Set up your painting area with good lighting and ventilation.Gather your paints: Yriel Yellow, Rhinox Hide, Firedragon Bright, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, and Ice Yellow from Vallejo.Ensure you have a wet palette for smoother paint application.Have a variety of brushes ready, including a small fine-tip brush for detailed work.Base Coat with Firedragon Bright: Apply Firedragon Bright as the base coat for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. Use a wet palette to maintain the paint’s consistency.Focus on covering the areas designated for the metallic trim.Add Troll Slayer Orange for Vibrancy: Introduce Troll Slayer Orange to create a vibrant orange hue.Blend it with Firedragon Bright for a smooth transition.Adjust the intensity by adding more or less Troll Slayer Orange as needed.Create Initial Highlights with Ice Yellow: Utilise Ice Yellow to mark out initial highlight areas.Apply it generously, as it will be blended and softened later.Adjust based on the model’s position and where light would naturally hit.Blend and Soften Highlights: Blend the colours together using small marks and strokes.Use a wet palette to keep the paint workable.Pay attention to transitions and reflections, adjusting as necessary.Introduce Yriel Yellow for Brightness: Add Yriel Yellow for intense brightness.Be cautious not to overdo it; you can always layer and adjust later.Focus on the most prominent areas that catch the light.Tone Down with Mournfang Brown: Use Mournfang Brown to tone down the intensity of the yellow hues.Glaze over areas to create a subtle transition.Consider the reflective properties of metal for realistic effects.Adjust Highlights with White Scar: Apply White Scar to create sharp highlights.Concentrate on areas where light hits sharply.Use a fine-tip brush for precision.Evaluate and Make Adjustments: Assemble the model partially to evaluate how light interacts with the metallic trim.Identify areas that need adjustments, considering the model’s overall composition.Add Final Touches and Reflections: Fine-tune reflections and add small dots to simulate reflective points.Experiment with different angles to ensure the model looks realistic from various perspectives.Pay attention to contrast, emphasising dark areas next to light for a shiny effect. How to Paint Mortarions Green Armour: Details on the knee armour The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Death Guard Green Ushabti Bone Incubi Darkness Yriel Yellow Mournfang Brown P3: Morrow White (Ceramite White) Step-by-step: Paint Mortarions Green Armour: Details on the knee armour Prepare the Model: Ensure the model is clean and free of any dust or debris.Use an airbrush to apply Death Guard Green as the base colour evenly over the foot.Initial Highlights with Ushabti Bone: Use a sharp brush to apply Ushabti Bone roughly over the Death Guard Green. Apply the highlight at an angle to catch light on the curve of the foot.Brush Technique: Utilize a worn-out size 1 brush for a softer, larger mark.Take advantage of the worn tip to create fatter marks for a textured effect.Layering Highlights: Apply multiple layers of highlights, ensuring they align from toe to the top of the foot.Use Death Guard Green on the palette to create soft blends and transitions.Adding Depth with Incubi Darkness: Glaze or paint Incubi Darkness over the highlights for a dark, contrasting effect.Test visibility behind the cloak to determine areas worth spending time on.Refining Highlights with Morrow White (Ceramite White): Move on to a smaller area with white, refining the highlight points. Underline sculpted details to enhance their 3D appearance.Glazing and Opaque Effects: Apply a sloppy glaze of Incubi Darkness to create a wash-like effect.Be mindful of catching raised details; the goal is to maintain texture.Adjusting Glazes: Fine-tune glazes by adjusting the opacity and color on the palette.Experiment with different mixtures to achieve desired transitions.Fine Details: Use Morrow White (Ceramite White) or a preferred white paint for underlining details.Add an orange base color for a unique glow effect.Shadows and Depth: Introduce shadows with Incubi Darkness on the upper edges of textures.Add shadows to make 3D imperfections in the armor more pronounced.Rivets and Details: Paint the rivets white for contrast and visibility.Address any streaking or imperfections, correcting as needed.Yellow Dots: Water down Yriel Yellow and paint the center of holes with multiple layers.Consider using the paint directly from the pot for a harder yellow dot.Streaking Effect: Use Mournfang Brown to create streaks coming from the holes.Adjust paint thickness to control the streaking effect.Final Touches: Ensure streaking direction aligns with the model’s positioning. Face and foot This video shows how to lighten the face of Mortarion and also how to paint the weathering on his armour. The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Ceramite White, Flayed One Flesh, Pallid Wych Flesh, Ushabti Bone, Rhinox Hide. Step-by-step: How to Paint Face and foot Glazing for Face Lightening: Prepare a glaze using Games Workshop’s Flayed One Flesh paint and water (about 5 parts water to 1 part paint).Load the brush with the glaze and remove excess paint on kitchen roll.Apply thin layers of glaze to the face, focusing on central areas like the forehead, bridge of the nose, and cheeks.Be careful not to let the glaze pool in the recesses. Keep adjusting to maintain control over the layering.Pallid Wych Flesh Detailing: Use Games Workshop’s Pallid Wych Flesh, a thicker paint, to highlight the top of creases on the face.Build up contrast between creases and highlights gradually to create a natural look.Ensure that the creases are lightened, but maintain a balance with the overall lighting on the face.Final Highlight with Games Workshop’s Ceramite White: Apply Games Workshop’s Ceramite White to the highest points of the face, focusing on central areas.Use a controlled technique to avoid overdoing the highlights.Maintain subtlety and control over the white highlights for a natural effect.Chip-Weathering on Armor: Choose Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide for chipping on the armor.Apply the paint with a brush, creating small marks on the model.Leave some patches of white paint between the chipped areas for added interest.Consider the positioning of chips, focusing on areas that would naturally experience wear and tear.Use a colour-coded brush to keep track of the tool’s usage and maintain control.Refining the Chipping: Adjust the thickness of the chipping lines to control the visual impact.Ensure that the chipping looks natural and not too high in contrast.Pay attention to the bottom of the foot, adjusting the highlighting based on the foot’s position.Add more chips on areas that would naturally experience more damage, like the front side of the leg. Cloth The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Ceramite White, Sotek Green, Abaddon Black, Evil Sunz Scarlet Vallejo: German Grey (Abaddon Black with a touch of white), Neutral Grey (Skavenblight Dinge), Pale Grey Blue (Celestra Grey). Step-by-step: How to Paint Cloth Primer Coat: Begin with a black primed base coat using Games Workshop: Abaddon Black or any black primer of your choice.Base Coat with German Gray: Apply Vallejo German Grey (a mix of Abaddon Black with a touch of white) using a stipple-like, rough fashion with a large, stiff brush. Rotate the brush to avoid obvious patterns.Dry Brush with Neutral Grey: Dry brush the cloth with Vallejo Neutral Grey (Skavenblight Dinge) using a large, stiff brush. Maintain a textured effect without removing the paint too severely.Fine Detailing with Sotek Green: Switch to a smaller brush (size 0 or similar) and use Sotek Green. Apply combinations of scratches and dots, focusing on smaller marks. Keep the paint fairly thick for strong marks.Gradual Highlighting: Mix Sotek Green with a small amount of Celestra Grey (Pale Grey Blue) in around a 2:1 ratio. Gradually build up layers, focusing on creases and details. Highlight raised areas more than recessed ones.Further Highlighting with Pale Blue-Gray: Mix Sotek Green with a small amount of Celestra Grey. Apply this highlight colour delicately, focusing on smaller areas. Enhance texture and pay attention to the shape of folds.Final Highlight with Pale Blue: Use Celestra Grey (Pale Blue) as the final highlight. Be extremely delicate with application, focusing on small details. Less is more at this stage, as the heavy paint can make strong marksGlazing with Abaddon Black: Use Abaddon Black for glazing. Apply it in the recesses to soften the texture marks and create a more blended look. Load the brush heavily for a more pronounced effect.Additional Glazing with Evil Sunz Scarlet: Use Evil Sunz Scarlet for additional glazing, mainly in the recesses. This adds contrast and depth to the demonic clothing. Experiment with colours to make the cloth more interesting.Final Touches and Details: Pay attention to focal points, such as areas where the cloth is attached to chains. Ensure that details are enhanced without losing the depth of the piece. More Mortarion Tutorials: Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Horn Painting Guide. PDF Tutorial How to paint a Nurgle horn with texture on a Deathshroud Terminator. – Richard Download the Horn Painting Guide Please wait for the PDF below to load to view, or download it here. About the Guide In this detailed guide I meticulously explain the process of painting a horn on a Death Shroud terminator model, emphasising brush control and the right consistency of paint. The tutorial progresses through six stages, including colour banding, blending, and highlighting, with tips on brush selection and technique. It’s good resource for model painters keen on improving their skills in adding realistic textures and details to their Nurgle model and is filled with practical advice, making complex techniques accessible to painters at various skill levels. More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide Video Tutorials Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard A series of video tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Watch Now More Nurgle Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Nurgle Lord Non-Metallic Metal Armour Guide By Richard Gray Master the art of non-metallic metal (NMM) painting with this comprehensive Nurgle Lord Non-Metallic Metal Armour Guide to achieving a stunning armour effect for your Nurgle Lord model. Follow along with detailed steps and techniques to create a realistic, textured metal look without using metallic paints. What’s Inside the Nurgle Lord Non-Metallic Metal Armour Guide: Materials and Paints Needed: Vallejo: German Grey, Dark Sea Grey, Pale Blue Grey, Leather Brown, Black Games Workshop: Skavenblight Dinge P3: Morrow White Coat d’Arms: Black Model Preparation: Learn how to properly prepare your model by washing the plastic, using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement for assembly, and filling gaps with Greenstuff. Prime the model grey and let it cure for 24 hours. Base Colour Application: Start with a black base colour to set the foundation for the NMM effect, providing the necessary contrast for a realistic shine. Initial Lighting with German Grey: Apply German Grey to the areas of the armour that will catch the most light. This stage sets the groundwork for the lighting effect and doesn’t require neatness, allowing for texture development. Stippling Technique for Texture: Introduce Dark Sea Grey with a stippling technique, creating small dots to add texture and refine the lighting. Use thicker paint for definite dots and don’t worry about imperfections. Highlighting with Pale Blue Grey: Continue stippling with Pale Blue Grey, focusing on higher light points. Add tiny lines under darker dots to simulate three-dimensional dints. Final White Stippling: Add small white dots to enhance the texture further. Though it may look messy at this stage, the following steps will smooth out the details. Smoothing with Glazes: Use heavily watered-down Battlefield Brown to create a glaze, applying it in thin layers to subtly blend and smooth the texture. Follow with a Coat d’Arms black glaze for shadows, enhancing the contrast with its satin finish. Final Touches and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more texture or brightness, especially the leg plates. Use the same colours and techniques to bring out the details, making adjustments as necessary to achieve a balanced look. Additional Refinement: Apply gentle glazes of Skavenblight Dinge to unify the textures and maintain the grey metal appearance. Balance the brown glazes to avoid overwhelming the armour, adjusting for the desired effect. Tips and Techniques: Stippling for Texture: Achieve a worn and battered look by stippling, a technique that involves creating small dots with a brush. Glazing for Smooth Transitions: Use very thin layers of paint to blend textures and create smooth transitions between colours. Balancing Highlights and Shadows: Ensure the highlighted areas are bright enough without overpowering the overall effect. Use glazes to deepen shadows and enhance contrast. This guide is perfect for hobbyists looking to achieve a realistic NMM armour effect on their models. With patience and attention to detail, you can create stunning, textured armour that stands out. Stay tuned for future guides on painting the rusted axe and the skin of the Plague Lord. Download the full guide below and transform your Nurgle Lord’s armour with non-metallic metal techniques! NurgleLordArmour-for-Patreon-final-1 If the above link doesnt load, follow this link or the below to download! https://richardgraycreations.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/NurgleLordArmour-for-Patreon-final-1.pdf Explore my latest video tutorials! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

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Free Tutorials

How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint

I don’t usually paint true metals as I find them irritating and the metallic particles get everywhere like a glitter bomb. I get a lot of requests for how to paint them though, so I thought I’d record this How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint for you, below! Video – How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint Paints Used The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Snakebite Leather, Black Templar Games Workshop: Averland Sunset, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Air Chrome, Air Gunmetal Grey (large pots), Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (substitute Mechanicum Codex Grey and Abaddon Black) Step-by-Step : How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint Initial Preparation Begin by assembling your Iron Warrior model, ensuring all parts are properly attached except for the head, which should be left unattached for easier painting. Your primary paints will be Vallejo Metal Colour Airbrush Colours, specifically Gunmetal Grey and Chrome, and Games Workshop’s Contrast paints like Snakebite Leather and Black Templar. Applying the Base Coat Start with Vallejo’s Air Gunmetal Grey. It’s a true metallic colour, enriched with botanic flakes to achieve a genuine metallic effect. This is in contrast to non-metallic metals which use standard colours to simulate metal. Apply Gunmetal Grey evenly, using a brush for a more organic, less sterile look. This approach maintains the natural shadows in recesses and adds interesting brush strokes. Highlighting with Chrome Enhance the model’s metallic sheen by highlighting with Vallejo Air Chrome. Focus on areas where light naturally falls, such as elevated surfaces and curves. The chrome will accentuate these spots, creating a dynamic contrast with the darker Gunmetal Grey. It’s crucial to observe the light interaction with the model to identify the best areas for chrome highlights. Adding Shadows with Contrast Paint For deepening shadows and adding depth, use Black Templar Contrast paint. This is particularly effective over metallic paints due to its translucent nature, adding depth without obscuring the metallic shine. Apply carefully to avoid overwhelming the metallic effect. Detailing with Snakebite Leather Snakebite Leather Contrast paint is excellent for adding warmth and a tint of colour to the metallics. It’s particularly useful for areas you want to appear weathered or less shiny. Apply sparingly and blend well to maintain a natural look. Hazard Stripes on Shoulder Pads Painting hazard stripes requires a steady hand and patience. Start by painting the shoulder pads with Neutral Grey and German Grey, blending these colours to create a mid-tone. Once the base is ready, use Averland Sunset for the yellow stripes. Ensure this paint is thin enough for smooth application but dense enough for good coverage. Carefully paint straight lines, keeping the spacing consistent. Avoid using masking techniques as they can complicate the process and don’t always yield cleaner results. Finishing Touches Once the main painting is complete, focus on adding small details like weathering effects, especially on the hazard stripes. Use black paint to simulate chips and scratches, creating a battle-worn look. Also, remember to paint the non-metallic parts, like the ribbing between armour plates, using appropriate grey tones. Final Assembly and Clean-Up After painting, reattach the head and any other separate parts. Be sure to clean your brushes thoroughly, especially when switching between metallic and non-metallic paints, to avoid unwanted cross-contamination More Contrast Paint projects and tutorials: More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Warhammer 40,000 Leviathan – Short Review and How to Paint A Deathwing Terminator from the New Leviathan Box!

Richard was sent the new Warhammer 40,000 Leviathan box set from Games Workshop, and of course had to pick out his favourite model to paint up for a tutorial video for you guys. This is up on the website, ad free for freebie members and above, but also on Youtube – follow the link below or click in the embed to watch: The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic) P3: Morrow White About the Leviathan box set – (Review by Rebecca) The “launch box” contains two armies (Space Marines and Tyranids), a limited edition book, and lots of other treats. However, if you’re a newbie to this hobby, brace yourself for a slightly steeper learning curve. Unlike some dedicated starter sets, Leviathan skips the dice, measuring tools, and handy “get started” guide. The box also contains a set of transfers covering a host of Space Marine Chapters.In the video Richard says that there are no Dark Angel ones, but there are, (sorry). In addition to this, while the rules for every Warhammer 40k unit will be available for free download from Warhammer Community, be aware that the box itself does not include physical cards. Instead, you’ll find basic profiles tucked away in the back of the instruction manual. Richard enjoyed painting a Terminator for the video above, and was impressed by the level of detail. They’ve managed to retain the classic charm of their predecessors while seamlessly blending into the ranks of the latest Space Marine models. In this new edition, the Terminators boast some nifty tricks up their power-armoured sleeves. Imagine being able to plant a teleport marker anywhere on the battlefield right from the get-go, courtesy of these bad boys. And the best part? You can use Rapid Ingress without spending a single resource to appear right next to that marker. Finally, they give a resounding “no thanks” to any negative hit modifiers. That means they’re practically unstoppable in combat. For beginners and those who stick themselves together more than their miniatures, the models in the Leviathan box set are push fit, requiring no glue. Despite their easy assembly, they stand strong against intricate multi-part kits, however and still boast a great level of detail and good customisability. I, personally, love the books that comes with the sets, especially when they are as full of background information as the rule book that comes with the Leviathan set.This exclusive book encompasses a whopping 200 pages of background information, hobby details, and lore. Not only does it provide insights into every Combat Patrol available, but it also showcases stunning images of painted models. In short, the Leviathan box set is a great set if you are looking to get a lot of very cool models plus some great lore! Rebecca Gray This website showcases lots of Warhammer tutorial videos by Richard Gray! If you don’t have an account on the website, please sign up here! In total, the website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore the free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me Richard on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Video Tutorials: How to Paint NMM Gold on a Stormcast Eternal Annihilator

I have to teach you how to paint NMM gold, especially after Games Workshop kindly sent me a review copy of the Age of Sigmar Dominion box, which is full of these golden boys! The first model I decided to paint was this chonky Annihilator! NMM means (Non Metallic Metal) – so it looks like gold paint, but is painted with “normal” paints. Read on and see! How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part One All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. There are also speed controls, click the little cog and choose a faster speed, if you’d like to speed it up a bit! How to Paint NMM Gold Video : Part Two Paints and Tools The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Yriel Yellow, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zamesi Desert, Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine) Step By Step Guide: How to Paint NMM Gold Step 1: Base Layer – Zamesi Desert: Start by applying the base layer using Zamesi Desert. Be careful with the application, as it can build up like a dusty layer if you’re sloppy. Use thin layers and consider dry brushing or stippling for a textured effect. Step 2: Highlights with Scrappy Marks: Apply the highlights by holding the model under a light source and quickly blocking in where the highlights hit. Use a chunky stippling style for blocking colours on the armour. Quick transitions work well for a better look. Don’t worry about brush marks; the focus is on selling the non-metallic effect. Step 3: Light Volumes and Reflections: Focus on getting the light volumes right for the non-metallic metal effect. Reflect other lights around you, similar to how a mirror reflects light. Be aware that some parts may not catch light as desired, but you can tweak it as you go along. Step 4: Adding White Highlights: Add white highlights using P3 Morrow White or any white paint of your preference. These highlights will enhance the non-metallic effect. Be mindful of the thickness of the paint, and if needed, glaze over for a refined and neater look. Step 5: Balancing Highlights: Maintain consistency in the highlights by holding the model under a light source and blocking in where the highlights hit. Balance is crucial for selling the non-metallic metal effect. Step 6: Layering and Glazing: Consider using glazing techniques with colours like Balor Brown or Japanese Uniform to add depth and colour variation. Thin your paints for later stages to achieve refined and smaller marks. Glazing helps neaten and soften the overall look. Step 7: Additional Details and Contrast: Add additional details using Rhinox Hide for larger areas to push contrast. Use watered-down Rhinox Hide for subtlety, and consider adding white highlights for reflections. Step 8: Stippling and Scratching: Stipple and scratch with a watered-down mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for larger areas. This technique adds texture and a brushed look to the non-metallic gold. Step 9: Final Touches and Glazing: Continue blending and refining the paint with scratchy marks. Towards the end, consider glazing to further enhance and refine the non-metallic gold effect. Adjust as needed for a balanced finish. Learn NMM Like a Pro! Liked this video? Check out all my latest subscriber videos with Non-Metallic Metal techniques by clicking the thumbnails below, or explore more freebies by clicking here. Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Tips on Freehand – Step-By-Step Image Guide : Adeptus Titanicus

The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand, especially for Adeptus Titanicus. The whole interview can be found here. Richard: As a massive fan of Adeptus Titanicus, I knew I had to have the Warlord-Sinister Psi-Titan as soon as I saw it. After I built the model, I realised I would have to figure out how to add the Legio Sinister icon to the shoulder pads. With no transfers available, this would make an ideal project to show my freehand process. The first thing to do when you want to freehand is a little research and planning. It’s very tempting to jump straight in and wing it. What usually happens if you do is that you run out of space, get details wrong and wish you had a transfer! With this in mind I looked for artwork of the Legio Sinister icon and managed to find a nice, large image. This tends to be when the true horror hits that you have a very detailed, large image that you need to fit in to a teeny tiny area. Before you get started on your freehand piece itself, paint the background armour panel completely. It’s much easier to paint it now rather than trying to get nice highlights and transitions around your carefully painted freehand.  The colours I’m going to use for the freehand are as follows: For the non-metallic metal (NMM) sections, I’ll use Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Dorn Yellow, and Screaming Skull. For the lion itself I will be using Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer, Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red. To get started, I first map out the shape and position of the freehand in black. Start in the centre and work your way outwards to allow you to make small corrections as you go. If you try painting the outline straight off there’s a good chance you’ll get the position wrong, and then it’s very hard to change! For the spikes just make small marks for each position to make sure they are spaced correctly. The reason for using black as a base colour is that it’s much easier to build up the highlight positions and use the black as shading, to keep your tonal contrast high. It also means you can use black to correct any mistakes you make.  Once the outline is complete it’s time to move on to the next layer – NMM trim. Start with Rhinox hide and make very large highlight blocks. Remember that the highlights will get smaller and smaller with each layer. I didn’t make a straight copy of the reference artwork, but rather made the lighting come from the top left. This made it look a bit more dramatic and allowed me to build stronger highlights and shadows.  Hard edges and curves reflect the light more strongly, so focus on those areas for the brighter highlights. After the Rhinox Hide, continue adding highlight layers with the remaining NMM colours in the order listed previously. Save the XV-88 for the finest edge highlights. After all of the trim is painted it’s time to start on the lion. This is where things get tricky! You should have a black, round hole in the middle of the design. Roughly block in the shape of the lion face using Mechanicus Standard Grey. This allows you to get the positioning correct without going over any of the work you’ve just done. Next begin refining the details of the face with Slaanesh Grey – be careful not to corrupt your Psi-Titan! Imagine the face as a 3D object and try to think where the highlights would naturally fall. I kept the light direction coming from the top left to match the trim. Now it’s time to start painting the lion’s mane. This is the scary part as it goes over all of the NMM that you’ve carefully painted. I strongly recommend that you take your time and try to be selective with your positioning. Avoid covering the bright point in the top left, as this feature helps make the NMM look metallic and shiny. I used watered down Mephiston Red to paint in the eye sockets, this makes the lion look extra angry. You should pick out the eyes in Grey Seer, plus any other details can be finished up in this step. By this stage everything should be starting to come together. One thing I strongly recommend is to take photos of your piece, and look at those rather than the painted model. The freehand is so small that it’s easy to miss mistakes, but on an enlarged photograph, your mistakes will look massive (and terrible)! This might be a difficult step, but it will be much easier to correct your work. Once the lion’s complete, it’s time for the symbol to be painted on the forehead. Again, start with black to block in the shape, then use the same colours for the NMM. As this area is so small, you don’t need to bother with Rhinox Hide. Finally, take one last photograph to check everything on the model and then give the whole panel a coat of matte varnish. This will remove any variances in the finish and will make the freehand look like it’s a part of the armour panel. I hope you liked my tips on freehand and if you’d like to learn more tips on freehand techniques from me, please scroll down to explore some videos, like the guide I created alongside this one, or explore the site! I did a tutorial video alongside this guide, click below to view it! Freehand Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine!

Ready to try some Grimdark Ultramarines? This how to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine tutorial’s got you covered. We’ll be using an airbrush and some cool oil weathering tricks to turn a plain model into a gritty Ultramarine warrior. From slapping on the base colour to adding those fine details, we’re keeping it real and straightforward. The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue, Blue Horror, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black, (Metal Colour Magnesium, Gold, Chrome) Scale 75: Dwarven Gold Winsor & Newton Oil Colour: Burnt Sienna, Black (Burnt Umber!) Forge World: Dark Sand How to paint a Grimdark Ultramarine Steps and Tips Base Coat:Apply Macragge Blue from Games Workshop using an airbrush.Use a small arch surface dry brush for a stippling technique to add colour and texture.Focus on covering all armour panels, avoiding non-blue elements like guns and chainsaws. Highlighting:Mix airbrush thinner and water.Highlight specific areas (shoulders, head, chest, backpack) using the airbrush.Use Scale 75 Dwarven Gold for golden trim, fixing any mistakes with black paint. Additional Detailing:Add scratches and dents using a fine brush.Apply subtle highlights using blue and blue horror, keeping it restrained.Avoid excessive highlighting for a balanced appearance. Purity Seals and Small Details:Optionally detail purity seals and other small features.Experiment with paint mixes for variety. Oil, Transfers and Weathering:Use micro set to soften transfers and apply them to the model.Coat with gloss varnish and let it dry.Apply oil paints for weathering by dabbing or gently rubbing.Highlight specific areas (knee, shoulder pads, head, hip plate, backpack) with the oil wash. Final Touches:Paint the eyes using white and carefully add additional highlights.Address any mistakes or mishaps.Reapply highlights using the same colours to make certain areas pop.Use weathering powder for a grounded look on the base. Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Mould Lines Tutorial : Build and Convert Mephiston Without Mould Lines or Gaps!

This mould lines tutorial shows you how to build and convert Mephiston of the Blood Angels and end up with a result that has no mould lines or gaps. Tools You Will Need The following tools were used in the video: Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Revell Contacta Plus Glue Greenstuff 2 Part Yellow and Blue epoxy Scalpel Clippers (I used Tamiya 300074123 – Diagonal Cutter) Step By Step Mould Lines Tutorial Prepare your ToolsSee above list! Foot Modification for Custom Base:If planning a custom base, clip off Mephiston’s foot from the base to allow for easier base building later! Tackle Mould Lines:Identify and remove mould lines using Tamiya Extra Thin, ensuring a smooth and clean surface. Take your time! Scalpel Precision:Utilise the full length of the scalpel for better control, especially in challenging areas like fabric creases. Handle Tricky Details:Address challenges with tubes and concave shapes, taking your time to avoid cutting into the model.Inspect and remove mould lines diligently, paying attention to hidden areas like armpits and hair. Sprue Connection Removal:Cut off tags where the model connects to the sprue and use Tamiya Extra Thin to blend the cut areas seamlessly. Model Assembly:Use Revel glue for assembly, overloading edges for a strong bond.Scrape away excess glue with a scalpel, mimicking the process of removing mould lines. Dry Fitting and Final Touches:Perform a dry fit to ensure proper part alignment.Address gaps or imperfections with green stuff for larger spaces. Adding Movement and Detail:Add movement to elements like Mephiston’s hair using Vallejo model putty for dynamic strands. Final Inspection:Clean up any excess putty or glue.Inspect the model for visible mould lines or gaps, ensuring a flawless finish. Keep Learning Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the freebies video page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Grimdark Black Templar

This free video shows how to paint a Grimdark Black Templar to tabletop standard (make sure you are logged in to view!) All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints: Paints: Games Workshop (Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Yriel Yellow, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull), Vallejo (Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, German Grey, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey), Scale 75 (Necro Gold), P3 (Morrow White) Oil Colours: Winsor & Newton (Black, Burnt Sienna) Odorless Mineral Spirit: Winsor & Newton Sansodor Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black Brushes: Artis Opus Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush Varnish: Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish (optional Mecha Gloss Varnish) How to Paint a Grimdark Black Templar – Step-by-Step Guide: 1. Base Preparation: Prime the model black, leaving the head with blue tack for easier eye painting. 2. Armour Texture and Highlights: Stipple German Grey (or a dark grey mix) over the armour, focusing on the edges and avoiding leather pouches and shoulder pads. This creates a textured base for highlighting. Progress with lighter greys, like Basalt and Neutral Grey, using a similar stippling technique. This builds up the highlights and adds depth. 3. Shoulder Pads: Paint shoulder pads with Neutral Grey. This area will eventually be white but start with a grey base to create a grimy look. 4. Masking for Airbrushing: Use putty to mask off areas and airbrush a mix of Morrow White and a touch of Abaddon Black on the shoulder pads, creating a gradient effect. 5. Detailing Black Areas: Use black paint to touch up any overspray from airbrushing, particularly on the armour trim and the Black Templar cross. 6. Leather and Skull: Apply Mournfang Brown to leather areas and the skull. The oil wash will later help blend and shade these parts. 7. Gold Details: Paint gold areas with Necro Gold, watering down the metallics for a smooth finish. 8. Metallics: Fill in all metallic parts with Gunmetal Grey. Oil wash will later enhance these metallics, providing depth and shading. 9. Skull Highlight: Add a quick highlight of Morghast Bone to the skull to make it stand out against the dark base. 10. Verdigris Effect: Apply a mix of Sotek Green and White for a verdigris effect on gold areas, focusing on recesses and crevices. 11. Oil Wash: Mix Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint with mineral spirit and apply generously over the model. This step dramatically alters the model’s look, blending and toning down highlights and adding a weathered effect. 12. Touching up Highlights: Redo the highlights in smaller areas using Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey, and Pale Blue Grey. This step refines the highlights post-oil wash. 13. Lenses: Paint the lenses starting with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Evil Sunz Scarlet, Fire Dragon Bright mixed with Yriel Yellow, and finally pure Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect. 14. Final Touches: Reapply metallic paints to certain areas for a contrast boost. Apply final highlights and adjust any last-minute details to your liking. Explore more of the latest free videos! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Video Tutorial: How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!

This video looks at How to Paint Snikrot the Ork! The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily. Tools and Paints: Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner Step By Step: How to Paint Snikrot the Ork Priming and Highlighting Begin with a primed model and apply a highlight using an airbrush and white ink from Vallejo. Thin the white ink with airbrush thinner for a smooth finish. Ensure the focal points, such as the face and chest, receive extra brightness during airbrushing. The contrast paint naturally enhances shadows and highlights. Applying Contrast Paints Use contrast paints for a high tabletop standard. Apply contrast paint to the model, focusing on loading up the brush with a generous amount to let it run into crevices and create shadow effects. Choose contrast colours based on personal preference, as they all work similarly. I’ve used contrast black (Templar Black) for metal areas. Leather and Metal Details Paint leather areas with desert yellow, avoiding excessive thinning as it complements the contrast paints. For metal areas, use contrast black or any black color of choice. Leave teeth and tongue unpainted, applying a coat of skeleton horde or a chosen pink colour for the tongue. Matte Varnish Apply matte varnish to reduce the shiny finish of contrast paints. Vallejo’s matte varnish is recommended for its balanced matte effect. Use a Wet Palette to Organise Your Paints Arrange neutral gray, neutral gray mixed with white, black, and dead white for easy access during painting. Detailing and Highlights Use grunge brown for detailing and add highlights with desert yellow. Experiment with different water-to-paint ratios for varied effects. Metallic Effects Achieve a metallic effect by using opaque white sparingly. Focus on creating highlights on edges and surfaces, making the metal look scratched and darkened. Creating Texture Experiment with brushes to create texture on the model. Stipple with an older, worn brush for a more textured effect on specific areas. Lenses and Final Touches Paint lenses using turquoise as the base colour and add highlights with Aquamarine or a mix of turquoise and white. Follow a common technique for gem-like effects. Looking for the Rebecca version? My wife did an April Fools version of this video, with her voice-over. It can be found below!: More free video tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine

These videos will show you how to paint a Death Guard Space Marine, specifically from the Space Marine Heroes collection. These guides will focus on creating a textured, decayed look characteristic of the Death Guard, using various stippling techniques. Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part OneMaterials NeededStepsTipsVideo – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part TwoAdditional Painting StepsAdditional TipsMore Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!Free Video Tutorials Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part One Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Khorne Red, Volupus Pink, Fire Dragon Bright, (alternatively Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for copper effect) Vallejo: Ice Yellow, (alternatively Old Rose and Salmon Rose) Brushes: A variety of sizes, including stippling brushes (Artist Opus dry brush or makeup brushes can be used) Primer: Black primer (Ultimate Primer recommended) Palette: For mixing colours Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes Steps Priming and Base Texture: Prime the model in black. Start stippling texture onto the armour using Balor Brown. Ensure the paint is diluted (about 50% water) to achieve translucency and avoid excessive build-up. Layering the Texture: Continue building texture with Morghast Bone, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Aim for a top-left light perspective. Dilute your paints as you stipple, gradually building up layers for a controlled, textured effect. Detailing with Contrast Paint: Apply Volupus Pink to recesses and bubbly areas on the armour for quick coverage. This helps in defining those decayed spots distinct to Death Guard armour. Base Colour for Trims and Metals: Paint all trims and metal areas with watered-down Rhinox Hide. This acts as a base for later metallic effects. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Effect: For a non-metallic metal look, mix Old Rose with Rhinox Hide and Salmon Rose with Ice Yellow. Layer these mixes to create a copper-like effect, adding Mournfang Brown for warmth. Highlighting Armour and Details: Use Screaming Skull to push highlights on the armour. Concentrate on areas like the chest, head, and shoulder pads to draw focus. Stippling Screaming Skull provides a more opaque highlight. For the pus boils, start with Balor Brown and build up layers with Fist Red for veins. Add Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for highlights, creating a shiny, reflective surface. Painting Fungus and Red Details: Base the fungus-like growths with Khorne Red. Create a gradient effect by mixing Khorne Red with Fire Dragon Bright, then highlight with Ice Yellow for a vibrant contrast against the armour. Tips Patience is Key: Death Guard models are detailed, so take your time to add depth and texture. Light Source Consistency: Ensure the light source remains consistent across the model for a cohesive look. Layering: Gradual layering helps create a more realistic texture, particularly for the decayed look of the Death Guard. Brush Care: Clean brushes thoroughly between colours, especially when working with stippling techniques. Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part Two Continuing from Part 1, let’s delve into completing the Death Guard Space Marine with a focus on the gun, additional weathering effects, and other details. We’ll be using a variety of techniques to add depth and character to the model. Additional Painting Steps Gun and Metallics: Start with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for a coppery effect. Apply these colours to the gun, focusing on light placement and creating non-metallic metal effects. Use Mournfang Brown and Ice Yellow for richer copper tones. Ensure smooth transitions and consistent light reflection. Weathering and Verdigris Effect: For added realism, apply verdigris using Sotek Green. Mix with water (approx. 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply it to recessed areas and around details for an oxidized look. Add layers of Sotek Green mixed with white for a more pronounced effect. Apply sparingly to avoid overpowering the metallic sheen. Highlighting and Details: Highlight the gun and metallic parts with Ice Yellow and a touch of white for glare effects. Be cautious with paint consistency to avoid unwanted textures. Address the back of the model similarly, but you can opt for brighter highlights as this part is often in shadow during gameplay. Painting the Backpack and Tentacles: For the backpack’s tentacle-like extensions, use a mix of Pink Horror, Emperor’s Children, and Fulgrim Pink. Stipple on these colours to create a mottled, organic texture. Use Averland Sunset or a similar yellow for raised pustules, adding depth and contrast to the tentacles. Green Goo Effect: Paint any dripping goo with Moot Green, applying in layers to create a luminous, toxic effect. Highlight edges with Ice Yellow for added vibrancy. Finishing Touches: Utilize Corvus Black for deepening shadows and refining details. Water down the paint and apply it as a glaze to enhance contrast and soften textures. For the final highlights, focus on the model’s focal points, such as the head, chest, and weapon, ensuring they draw the viewer’s attention. Additional Tips Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a more natural and controlled effect. Light Source: Keep the light source consistent across the model for a cohesive appearance. Weathering Techniques: Experiment with weathering to add character. Verdigris and rust effects can significantly enhance the decayed look of the Death Guard. Patience: Take your time with details, especially on focal points, to make them stand out. Brush Care: Maintain your brushes, especially when working with techniques that can be hard on them, like stippling and dry brushing. More Death Guard Tutorials to Explore! Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Gloomspite Gitz Grot in Contrast Paint

A quick and simple video tutorial in how to paint this friendly little Gloomspite Gitz Grot with Contrast paints and apply varnish to bring the colours together and finish the piece. The key is to work fast with Contrast paints, allowing their properties to create natural shadows and highlights, and then refining with traditional paints for a more polished finish. Video Tutorial – Gloomspite Gitz Grot in Contrast Paint All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Materials List for Painting Gloomspite Gitz with Contrast Paint Brushes: Various brushes suitable for applying contrast paints and doing detail work – I use Artist Opus range for details, with a standard general brush for applying the paint more roughly. Primer: Vallejo Surface Primer Black: For the initial priming of the models. Games Workshop Wraithbone spray can: Used for zenithal highlights. Contrast Paints (Games Workshop) Black Templar: For dark areas like robes. Plaguebearer Flesh: For skin. Iyanden Yellow: For ropes and feet. Nazdreg Yellow: Alternative option for ropes and feet. Flesh Tearers Red: For red elements on the models. Additional Paints: Games Workshop Daemonette Hide: For highlighting black areas. Games Workshop Dorn Yellow: For enhancing yellow areas. Games Workshop Blue Horror: For brighter highlights. Games Workshop Ceramite White: For final, brightest highlights. Games Workshop Skavenblight Dinge: For non-metallic metal effects. Varnish: AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish: For finishing and protecting the painted models. Other Materials: Water for thinning paints and cleaning brushes. A palette for mixing paints. Kitchen roll or a similar material for wiping and adjusting brush moisture. Airbrush (Optional): Recommended for a smoother zenithal highlight application compared to using a rattle can. Step-by-Step Guide Priming and Base Highlights: Prime the models with Vallejo Surface Primer Black. Use Games Workshop’s Wraithbone spray for zenithal highlights, creating a directional light effect to enhance contrast paint application. Applying Contrast Paints: Start with the skin using Games Workshop’s Plaguebearer Flesh. Be relatively quick and don’t worry excessively about neatness. For darker areas like robes, use Black Templar. Apply it straight out of the pot, allowing it to flow into recesses. Paint the ropes and feet with a brown contrast paint like Iyanden Yellow or Nazdreg Yellow. Use Flesh Tearers Red for red elements, considering multiple coats for a smoother finish. Additional Details: For weapons, you can opt for a simple black base and metallic highlights, or try a non-metallic metal (NMM) approach using neutral grays. To enhance yellow areas that are translucent and show speckles, use Dorn Yellow for edge highlights and additional coats. Refining and Enhancing: Use Daemonette Hide to pick out highlights, particularly on black areas. Vertical strokes can emphasize cloth folds. Add brighter highlights with Blue Horror, focusing on raised areas and edges for a sharper look. Finalize the highlights with Ceramite White, adding small touches to the most prominent areas. Correcting Mistakes and Blending: If you make mistakes or need to blend areas, use appropriate contrast paints or a mix with water for glazing and tinting. Varnishing: Once painting is complete, apply an ultra-matte varnish (like AK Interactive Ultra Matte) to unify the finish and protect the paint. This can be done by hand or with an airbrush. Be cautious of pooling and bubbles. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video: Paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton

This video shows the complete process of how to paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton from the Cursed City boxed game by Games Workshop. The tutorial covers techniques for achieving a worn, non-metallic metal look and provides insights into brush handling, highlighting, and detailing. The following paints were used in the video:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Cadian Fleshtone, Baharroth Blue, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Basalt Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black, Heavy Grey P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green Steps And Tips to Paint an Ulfenwatch Skeleton Preparation and Priming:Use Scale 75 surface primer for a matte finish on the Ulfenwatch Skeleton from the Cursed City box game.Remove the tab from the feet for basing without risking damage to your paintwork. Armour Painting Technique:Start with Vallejo Basalt Gray for non-metallic metal-style armour painting.Use a worn-out brush for a rough look, applying lighter shades on prominent areas and gradually decreasing paint for darker sections.Start on the brightest points for effective highlighting. Highlighting and Detailing:Apply successive highlights using Basalt Gray, Neutral Gray, Pale Grey Blue, and White to create neater and more defined details on the armourHighlight worn spots, holes, and dents on the armour to add character, ensuring that the marks become neater with each successive highlight. Shield Painting:Use Mournfang Brown for a bronze/copper look on the shield, focusing on one primary shine point.Highlight points where the light hits the shield, including spikes and creases, using a controlled blobbing technique for added definition. Face and Eye Painting:Paint the face with Balor Brown, focusing on small, intricate details.Use Yriel Yellow to add a bright edge around the eye sockets for a realistic effect, but keep an eye (ha ha) to ensure you are keeping your lighting consistent throughout the model.Do the process for painting other parts like arms and legs, but beware of overly bright highlights that may distract from focal points. Watch more of my tutorials by clicking the links below: Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan in Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) colours

This free video shows how to paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan for the Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) from the Adeptus Titanicus game. The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black Steps to Follow on How to Paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan Preparing the Model Build the Model: Assemble your Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, leaving off the armour plates for separate painting. This allows easier access to the skeleton for painting in metallic colours. Painting the Skeleton Base Coat in Metallic: Start with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron applied with a large soft brush or a dry brush for a smooth metallic base on the skeleton. Detailing with Copper: Use Games Workshop Hashut Copper for the hips and other details, applying multiple coats as necessary for even coverage. Thin with water if the paint is too thick. Verdigris Effect: Mix oil paints on cardboard to create a light green verdigris colour. Stipple this onto the copper parts with an old brush, focusing on crevices and rivets. Thin with white spirit for a more natural effect. Weathering the Metal Oil Wash: Create an oil wash with black and burnt sienna oil paints thinned with mineral spirits. Apply over the entire metal skeleton, excluding verdigris areas, to add depth and an oily finish. Highlighting: Highlight edges and raised details with Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome for a sharp contrast. Painting the Armour Panels Base Coat in Blue: Airbrush the panels with Games Workshop Night Lords Blue, followed by highlights with Calgar Blue focusing on upper sections and curves. Detailing Stripes and Flames: For striped areas, use Tamiya masking tape and Vallejo Dark Sea Grey. For flames, start with Balor Brown as a base, building up to lighter tones and finally white for the hottest parts. Applying Decals: Use Forge World or Games Workshop decals for additional detailing, sealing them with Microset or Microsol. I’ve put a link to another free video on how to do that, below! Final Weathering: Apply oil washes for weathering effects, focusing on creating streaks and grime accumulation that fits with the battlefield-worn look. How to Apply Forge World Decals and Weather Them A beginners guide on how to apply Forge World decals and weather them so they look a natural part of the painting on your model. Painting and applying decals to your models adds significant details and realism, making it stand out during tabletop gaming. It’s also a lot easier than freehand! I still use decals a lot in my models, despite also enjoying freehand work. Watch and Read Now Finishing Touches Painting Trim and Details: Use Scale 75 Necro Gold for gold trim, applying carefully around edges and details. For a brighter highlight, apply Vallejo Metal Colour Gold. Matte Varnish: Seal the entire model with an ultra-matte varnish to tie together the different finishes and protect the paintwork. Optional Ribbon Streamers: Create custom ribbon streamers from plastic card, painted and detailed to match the Titan’s colour scheme, adding dynamism and a personalised touch to your model. Additional Tips Always thin your paints to ensure smooth application and avoid obscuring fine details. When working with oil paints for weathering, allow ample drying time between layers to prevent smudging. Use a hairdryer to speed up drying times cautiously, avoiding too much heat on plastic parts. Experiment with lighting and colour modulation on the armour panels for a dynamic appearance. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!

This video looks at how to paint the Ork special character, Snikrot, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.The model is painted to a high tabletop standard and Contrast paints are used heavily. Quick Jump to: Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork!Steps and TipsPriming and HighlightingApplying Contrast PaintPainting DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueSkin HighlightsLeather and StrapsFinal Touches on Metallic AreasLenses and EyesVideo Tutorial – (Richard Version)More Free Video Tutorials Video Tutorial – How to Paint Snikrot the Ork! The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Black Legion, Mantis Warriors Green, Aggaros Dunes, Skeleton Horde, Garaghak’s Sewer Vallejo Game Colour (New): White Ink, Mecha Matt Varnish, Neutral Grey, Black, Desert Yellow, Bile Green, Grunge Brown, Dead Flesh, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Dead White, Airbrush Thinner Steps and Tips Priming and Highlighting Prime the model.Apply white ink using an airbrush, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner, focusing on the face and chest for natural light effects. Applying Contrast Paint Start with Mantis Warriors Green for the skin. Use a large brush for efficient coverage, allowing the paint to settle in the recesses.For trousers, use Aggaros Dunes, a dark brown contrast paint.Apply another brown contrast paint for the leather areas.Paint all metal areas with Black Legion contrast paint, without worrying about neatness as black will cover any overlapping paint.For bone areas, use Skeleton Horde. Painting Details Paint teeth and tongue with Skeleton Horde, and use a pink colour for the tongue.Apply a coat of matte varnish (Mecha Matt Varnish by Vallejo) to reduce the sheen from the contrast paints. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique Start with Vallejo Game Colour Neutral Grey for the metallic areas.Create a palette with Neutral Grey, mixed with white and black, and use Dead White for the brightest highlights. Skin Highlights Mix Bile Green with white for brighter skin highlights. Focus on the areas where natural light wouldhit, such as the tops of muscles and face. Leather and Straps For additional texture and highlights on leather, use Grunge Brown.Apply Desert Yellow for final highlights on leather, following the sculpted creases and stress points. Final Touches on Metallic Areas Enhance the metal parts with additional Grunge Brown, focusing on recesses and flat surfaces for a grimy look.Use Dead Flesh for final highlights on metallic areas, achieving a high contrast non-metallic metal effect. Lenses and Eyes Paint the lenses starting with Turquoise, followed by Aquamarine for the first highlight.Add a small dot of Dead White at the bottom for a reflective effect.Throughout the process, remember to let each layer dry before applying the next. Video Tutorial – (Richard Version) Yep – it was an April Fools! 😀 This was my wife and she wanted to have some fun doing a voice over.She has her own channel here, if you’d like to check out more of her Warhammer New Release unboxings and voice overs, or you can explore them below. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “”friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Legio Sinister Freehand on the Adeptus Titanicus Warlord Titan

Welcome to this detailed guide on how to paint the Legio Sinister freehand symbol for a Warlord Titan. I will be using various Games Workshop and Vallejo paints to achieve a polished and striking look. This guide is suitable for intermediate to advanced hobbyists due to the precision required in freehand painting. Video – Legio Sinister FreehandPaints UsedSteps and Tips for the Legio Sinister FreehandStep By Step Image GuideMore Freehand Tutorials on the WebsiteFree Video Tutorials Video – Legio Sinister Freehand All videos are recorded in HD 720p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Paints Used Vallejo Model Colour Black Games Workshop Paints: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer, Mephiston Red, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Dorn Yellow, Screaming Skull Steps and Tips for the Legio Sinister Freehand Mapping Out the Position: Begin by using Vallejo Model Colour Black to roughly outline where the symbol will be placed. Start with a small circle at the centre, gradually expanding outwards. Include a line at the top of the curve to centralise the image. Refining the Shape: Progressively enlarge the symbol, focusing on refining its shape. Paint an approximate circle with spikes extending outward. Ensure even distribution of the black paint to provide a solid base for subsequent layers. Applying Initial Colours: Commence with Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, applying it as a foundation for the non-metallic parts of the symbol. Layer on XV-88 next, followed by Dorn Yellow, with a focus on the top-left for the lighting direction. Remember, moderate use of Dorn Yellow prevents oversaturation. Adding Highlights: Employ Screaming Skull to introduce highlights. Be judicious in this step, concentrating on the top left to evoke a lustrous appearance. The XV-88 should remain the predominant colour for the metallic aspects. Painting the Lion’s Face: Utilise a range of greys (Mechanicus Standard Grey, Slaanesh Grey, Grey Seer) to depict the lion’s face. Start with basic shapes, refining them progressively. Pay special attention to the eyes, nose, and mouth, building depth with shadows and highlights. Detailing with Red: Apply a glaze of Mephiston Red for a subtle red glow around the eyes and other facial areas. This step enhances the lion’s fierce visage. Adding Fur Details: Use greys to render fur details, commencing with darker shades and progressing to lighter highlights. Focus on creating a three-dimensional effect with varied brushstrokes. Final Details: Paint the Titanicus symbol on the lion’s forehead using black as a base. Layer greys for the non-metallic metal effect, ensuring a thinner central line for a precise appearance. Use Dorn Yellow and Screaming Skull for the highest highlights, ensuring they are well-placed to create a realistic metallic sheen. Refining and Adjusting: As you near completion, revisit areas that require refinement. This may include sharpening edges, deepening shadows, or enhancing highlights. The key is to achieve a balance between contrast and harmony in the symbol’s details. Final Touches: Examine the overall piece for any last-minute adjustments. This might involve intensifying certain colours, smoothing transitions, or adding small details to bring the symbol to life. Ensure the lighting direction is consistent and the symbol stands out against the background. Step By Step Image Guide The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand and I created an article with step by step imagery for the tutorial above – to view it, visit: Tips on Freehand – Step-By-Step Image Guide : Adeptus Titanicus More Freehand Tutorials on the Website Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist

This video shows the whole process of how to paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist for Warhammer 40,000, plus a step by step text guide. Tool and Paints The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Balor Brown, XV-88 Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Black, (Metal Colour Magnesium) P3: Morrow White (Any brand of white is fine) Scale 75: Dwarven Gold, Neco Gold Winsor & Newton: Oil Colour: Burnt Sienna, Black, Sansodoor solvent Step by Step Guide : How to Paint a Grimdark Imperial Fist Step 1: Base Coating with XV-88 Start with a model primed in black and assembled (except for head and backpack). Use XV88 paint directly from the pot and scrunch it onto a piece of paper towel. Stipple the paint onto the model with a large brush to cover all armour panels. Stab the marine harshly with the stippling brush to create texture. Don’t worry about getting paint on other parts; focus on covering armour panels thoroughly. Step 2: Adding Baylor Brown Highlights Switch to a smaller brush for precision. Use Balor Brown paint and continue stippling, focusing on areas with prominent curves (shoulder pads, backpack, head). Highlight the model by emphasizing the curves for a top-down lighting effect. Step 3: Airbrushing with Yriel Yellow and Ice Yellow Thin Yriel Yellow paint with airbrush thinner in a wet palette. Apply a thin coat with an airbrush, blending and smoothing the texture. Use Ice Yellow with the airbrush to highlight specific metal areas (gun, joints, recesses). Step 4: Red Trim with Mephiston Red Paint the trim on the marine in red using Mephiston Red paint. Avoid painting directly from the pot; thin the paint with water to achieve the right consistency. Focus on essential highlights rather than painting every edge. Step 5: Final Highlights and Stippling Use worn-out brushes for final highlights, adding details to areas with texture or leftover stippling. Stipple lightly to blend and enhance highlights. Step 6: Weathering with Sotek Green and Verdigris Apply Sotek Green for verdigris weathering on the chest piece. Water down the paint and run it into recesses for a weathered effect. Step 7: Apply Decals and Micro Set Glue the head on to avoid wobbly head issues. Apply decals using Micro Set for adhesion. Skip Micro Sol; Micro Set alone is sufficient for shaping decals. Step 8: Oil Wash with Agrax Earthshade Thin Agrax Earthshade with some Sansodor to create a wash. Apply the wash generously over the model, allowing it to settle in recesses. Wipe off excess if needed. Step 9: Final Touches and Stippling Stipple over highlights again to clean up and enhance contrast. Use Metal Colour Magnesium paint on lower areas (shin, foot) for a dirty, textured effect. Focus on making the knee pad stand out and eliminating unwanted highlights. Step 10: Eyes and Final Details Paint eyes with a mix of Sotek Green and Metal Colour Magnesium for a glowing effect. Add final details as needed, keeping the overall grimy and weathered appearance. Free Video Tutorials More free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Deathwing Terminator from the New Leviathan Box!

This video looks at how to paint a Deathwing Terminator from the new Leviathan boxed set, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy. Video – How to Paint a Deathwing Terminator The following paints were used Games Workshop: Black Templar (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Yriel Yellow Vallejo: Game Colour Dark Green, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black, Gunmetal Grey (Metallic), Chrome (Metallic) P3: Morrow White Step by Step Guide Preparation and Priming: Assemble the Deathwing Terminator, modifying as desired (e.g., swapping weapons). Prime the model in black. Base Coat and Airbrush Highlighting: Apply a base coat of XV-88. Highlight with Morghast Bone using an airbrush, focusing on natural light areas. Applying Contrast Paint: Mix Darkoath Flesh with Contrast Medium and cover the Deathwing Terminator, emphasising recesses over large, smooth areas. Highlighting and Texturing: Hand apply highlights and textures using Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull, targeting brighter airbrushed areas. Detailing with Black Paint: Paint areas destined for other colours (metal, red, green) with Black Templar Contrast or thinned black paint. Metallic Parts: Apply Vallejo Gunmetal Grey to metal parts. Use Agrax Earthshade for a matte effect. Add highlights with Chrome. Red Areas (Eyes, Lenses, Purity Seals): Base with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black. Progressively highlight with Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red. Green Areas (Chest Eagle): Base in Vallejo Game Colour Dark Green. Add highlights by progressively mixing in white. Bone Armour Texturing and Detailing: Further texture and scratch effects using Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Screaming Skull. Mix Morghast Bone with a bit of Mournfang Brown for shadows. Chest Eagle and Purity Seal Text: Use fine brushwork for text effects on purity seals with black paint. Final Highlights and Details: Apply final highlights with Screaming Skull or white, focusing on areas for maximum contrast. Blend and soften with Neutral Grey glazing. Basing: Base the Deathwing Terminator as preferred, employing sand texturing, painting rocks in German Grey and Neutral Grey, and adding grass tufts. Finishing Touches: Add chips and scratches across the armour with Rhinox Hide and Screaming Skull. Enhance details and edge highlights to complete your Deathwing Terminator! Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint

This video tutorial looks at how to paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paints, using a couple of the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and specifically using ‘Imperial Fist’ paint! I also go through top techniques and tips you can use on all your Space Marines. Video Tutorial: How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). The following paints and materials were used: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust Manifold P3: Morrow White (Any White will do) Micro Set BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Step by Step Guide – How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint Preparing the Base Coat Start with Mournfang Brown as the base coat. This provides a solid foundation and eliminates black elements that might affect the final colour. Apply a thin, even layer to ensure a smooth finish. Creating a Pre-Shade Effect To create a pre-shade effect, mix P3 Morrow White with Mournfang Brown. This technique helps in achieving both highlights and shadows in one go. Avoid taking the pre-shade highlight all the way up to pure white unless you desire a very bright yellow. Applying Imperial Fist Contrast Paint Use the Imperial Fist contrast paint, a bright yellow, over the pre-shaded model. This contrast paint is translucent and needs a light base for optimal results. Apply it evenly, focusing on the model’s raised areas to enhance the pre-shade effect. If the first coat appears too orange, apply a light layer of P3 Morrow White on the desired areas and reapply the contrast paint for a brighter yellow. Enhancing Highlights with White For areas requiring a more vibrant yellow, directly apply P3 Morrow White using an airbrush. This step significantly brightens up the yellow tones, providing a more striking appearance to the model. Adding Depth with Contrast Paints Experiment with Rattling Grime contrast paint for adding depth. If it appears too dark, dilute it with Contrast Medium. Apply it sparingly, especially in recessed areas, to create natural shadows. Applying Matte Varnish Once the contrast paints are dry, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This helps to dull any unwanted shine and sets the base for further detailing. Glazing with Yriel Yellow Create a glaze by heavily thinning down Yriel Yellow with water. Apply this glaze selectively to the model’s raised areas, building up the colour in thin layers. This process enhances the vibrancy of the yellow and adds more dimension. Detailing with Additional Colours Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for detailing elements like scroll work. These colours contrast well with the yellow and bring out the finer details. For battle damage, use Rhinox Hide or a similar dark colour to create chips and scratches. Highlighting Battle Damage Mix Yriel Yellow with a bit of white (or use Dawn Yellow) for highlighting the lower edges of the battle damage. This creates a more realistic chipped paint effect. Painting the Weapon For the bolter or other weapons, use a combination of German Grey and Neutral Grey from Vallejo. Apply them in a gradient for a realistic metallic effect, and use black to blend and soften transitions. Lenses and Eyes Paint lenses and eyes using Sotek Green, gradually adding white to the mix for successive highlights. Ensure the brightest highlights are off-centre for a natural glow effect. Finishing Touches Finally, apply Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand to the base and lower parts of the legs for a gritty, battle-worn look. Seal with a matte varnish to fix the powder in place. More Contrast Paint Tutorial and Projects If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon Head

This video looks at how to paint the head of the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon. The video looks at the textured bone, how to add colour and interest and then how to add verdigris and NMM to the bronze trim. Video – How to Paint the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon Head Paints and Materials Used on the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon Paints: Games Workshop Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Skavenblight Dinge, (Skeleton Horde Contrast optional) Kimera Colours: Fallen Grass (Sybarite Green as an alternative) Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun (Balor Brown alternative) Brushes and Tools: Artis Opus Small Dry Brush: Used for stippling the base coat and first highlights. Size 2 Brush (Old): Ideal for glazing with Scavenblight Dinge and applying the verdigris effect on metallic elements. An older brush is recommended as the techniques used can be rough on the bristles. Size Z00 Brush: Used for finer detail work, such as adding texture to the verdigris effect. However, a larger brush may be more efficient for larger areas. Size 1 Brush: Recommended for applying non-metallic metal highlights. An older brush is suitable as long as it maintains a good point. Wet Palette: Handy for keeping your paint mixes workable and blending colours. Kitchen Roll: For dabbing off excess paint and ensuring the right consistency on the brush. Water Pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes. Step-by-Step Guide to Painting the Tomb Kings Bone Dragon Step 1: Base Coat Create a mix of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 in approximately a 50/50 ratio. The exact mix isn’t crucial, but aim for a reddish-brown shade. Thin this mixture with water (about two parts water to one part paint). Using an Artist Opus small dry brush, apply this mixture to the dragon head using a stippling method. Ensure the brush is damp, not wet, to avoid a dusty look. Cover the entire surface, allowing the small dots of paint to create texture. This might require two to three layers for opaque coverage. Step 2: First Highlight Switch to Morghast Bone for the next layer of highlight. Again, thin the paint (similar ratio as before) and dab off excess paint on kitchen roll before applying. Stipple Morghast Bone more selectively, focusing on creating a transition from darker to lighter areas. Pay special attention to the metal crests and teeth-like protrusions, ensuring they are light enough for later glazing. Step 3: Final Highlight Move on to Screaming Skull for the highest highlights. Apply this colour even more sparingly and delicately, focusing on the most raised areas and textures. Remember, this is not dry brushing. Dab the brush straight onto the model to create the desired texture. Step 4: Painting the Teeth Start with the base colours used for the bone and apply them with a normal brush for a smoother finish. For the top teeth, paint from the bottom upwards. This creates a shiny effect, with the brightest part of the tooth at the top. Use Screaming Skull for the very top section of the teeth to enhance the shiny look. Step 5: Softening Textures Use Scavenblight Dinge to soften the texture on the skull. Thin the paint significantly (about three to four parts water to one part paint). Apply with a large brush, focusing on midtones to shadows to enhance depth and contrast. Step 6: Glazing and Highlighting Return to the mixture of XV-88 and Mournfang Brown, now very watered down. Glaze around the teeth and other areas to add warmth and contrast, separating different elements like teeth from the skull. Step 7: Additional Details and Glazing Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull to pick out details, focusing on areas like the eye sockets and brow for added focus. For the bone spikes, start glazing with Rhinox Hide, thinned down. Progress from Rhinox Hide to a black colour (like Vallejo Model Color Black), applying from halfway down the bone spike towards the tip, creating a dark gradient. Step 8: Metallic Elements Base the metal parts with Mournfang Brown. Apply a wash of Fallen Grass, heavily watered down (five parts water to one part paint), focusing on recesses. Follow up with black lining for added definition, using watered-down black paint. Step 9: Non-Metallic Metal Highlights Create a palette with Mournfang Brown, a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun, Dark Sun, Dark Sun mixed with white, and pure white. Start with the darker mixes and progressively highlight with lighter mixes, focusing on edges and areas where wear would naturally occur. Add finer highlights and scratches with the lightest mixtures. Step 10: Finishing Touches Revisit areas with Scavenblight Dinge for further softening and definition. Optionally, add warmth with a glaze of Mournfang Brown and XV-88, or Skeleton Horde Contrast for subtlety. Explore more Old World and Bone Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: Legions Imperialis – Leman Russ Vanquishers

This video shows how to paint some tanks for the Solar Auxilia faction of Legions Imperialis. Plus, I’ve included a little step-by-step guide underneath on the key points of the video! The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Agrax Earthshade, Skeleton Horde Contrast, Sotek Green, Moot Green, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Rhinox HideVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Metal Colour Copper P3: Morrow White Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (series 1 oil paint), Black, Sansodoor mineral spirit For melting decals onto models : Micro Set Step-by-Step Guide: Prepare the Base Coat:Use an airbrush for efficiency in batch painting for your large Legions Imperialis faction.Mix Vallejo Neutral Gray with airbrush thinner (30 PSI, 50/50 ratio with thinner).Apply the base coat evenly to the entire tank. Consider using gray primer for a quicker and better result.Layering for Opaque Finish:Apply two or three layers of paint, especially for lighter colours like Pale Blue Gray Blue and Morrow White.Account for the drying effect, as colours may appear brighter when wet and darker when dry.Ensure a smooth and opaque finish by layering. Weathering Techniques:Stipple Rhinox Hide for additional details, using a foam piece held by tweezers.Apply weathering heavily to achieve a worn and battle-hardened look.Consider the impact areas for realistic weathering, such as edges and front sections. Adding Red Markings:Use Evil Suns Scarlet for red markings.Differentiate leader tanks by adding a red turret.Apply the red markings consistently across Legions Imperialis tanks for uniformity. Metallic and Lens Details:Use Exhaust Manifold by Vallejo for metallic parts.Apply Agrax Earthshade for a wash over the metallic sections.Paint lenses black and highlight with a mix of black and white in three stages. Final Touches:Add decals before applying any oil wash to blend them with the weathering.Consider adding additional details like hazard stripes or cables for higher-level detailing.Apply a final matte varnish or Games Workshop fixative to set the weathering powder and prevent rubbing off. Optional Colour Variations:Experiment with different colours based on personal preferences.Lighter colours with heavy weathering can enhance contrast and visibility in smaller scale models.Customise the Legions Imperialis tanks according to your gaming preferences. Final Assessment and Variations:Assess the overall look of the Legions Imperialis tank for any additional highlighting or weathering needed.Consider variations in colours and markings for a diverse tank fleet.Keep in mind that the level of detail can be adjusted based on personal preferences and the purpose of the painted tanks (e.g., gaming).! More videos! Click on the thumbnails below to explore more Legions Imperialis videos, or visit the All Videos page to browse all of my latest tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore more of my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour NMM Gold

In this guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists! Paints and Materials Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownP3: Morrow White (Any White will do) BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush Step-by-Step Guide Want more? Download the detailed PDF guide! If you’ve enjoyed the video and want to take your painting to the next level, don’t forget to download the accompanying PDF guide. This extra resource provides step-by-step instructions, close-up insights, and useful tips to help you perfect the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold technique on Rogal Dorn’s armour. Whether you’re watching the video or painting at your own pace, the guide is here to ensure you achieve the best results. Download the PDF Guide and master the art of NMM gold! Read Now More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Night Lords Praetor for Horus Heresy

In this free video you will be shown how to paint a Night Lords Praetor in terminator armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!) All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Kantor Blue, Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue (optional), Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Firedragon Bright, Baneblade Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Balor Brown, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Windsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron Scale 75: Elven Gold (optional)P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush Step by Step : How to paint a Night Lords Praetor Painting Steps: Priming and Assembly: Assemble your model fully and prime it in black. In this case, the head is already glued in, making it slightly more challenging to paint. Base Layering: Start with Night Lords Blue, diluted roughly 50:50 with water. Use a small dry brush or makeup brush to stipple the paint onto the model, ensuring to get into all the recesses. Progressive Highlights: Apply subsequent layers of Kantor Blue, then Macragge Blue. With each layer, be less vigorous and focus more on areas where light naturally hits. Detailing with a Small Brush: For hard-to-reach areas like the chest, use a small brush to apply highlights. Final Highlighting: If desired, add a final stage of highlighting with Calgar Blue, although its translucency can be less satisfying. A mix of Macragge Blue and white can be more effective. Blocking in Other Colours: Apply base colours for other parts of the model, such as Mephiston Red for red areas, Baneblade Brown for leather straps, and Balor Brown for skulls and bones. Metallics and Golds: Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron and golden areas with Scale 75 Elven Gold. Gloss Varnish and Oil Wash: Once all base colors are blocked in, apply Vallejo Mecha Gloss Varnish. Follow this with a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black oil paint thinned with mineral spirits. Apply it liberally over the model and then remove excess with a clean brush dipped in mineral spirits. Matte Varnish: After the oil wash has dried, apply Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish to prepare the model for further acrylic painting. Refining Highlights: Revisit areas with acrylic highlights, enhancing details and cleaning up where necessary. Lightning Effect: Use a mix of Macragge Blue and white, then pure white, to paint lightning effects on armor panels. Finishing Touches: Add final details to the model such as eye lenses, further skull highlighting, and final metallic edge highlights. Base Detailing: For the base, use Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand over glued sand for a realistic texture. Additional Tips on how to paint a Night Lords Praetor: Keep the paint consistency thin to avoid losing details. Use stippling and careful brushwork to create texture and depth. Be patient with the oil wash and varnish steps, as they significantly enhance the final look. Experiment with the lightning effect to create dynamic visual interest on the armor. Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Video Tutorial: How to Fix the Legions Imperialis Marines

This video takes a look at the distortion on the marines and tries to fix the issue. Legions Imperialis was sent to me by Games Workshop as an early review copy. In this video, I’m tackling a little issue with the Legions Imperialis Marines from the latest game. These guys are small, about 9 millimeters tall and they’ve got some quirks… So, in this tutorial, I’m walking you through how I clean them up. I grab a trusty scalpel, trim off the excess plastic, and then work some magic with Tamia extra thin glue to make it all smooth and polished. Steps to Fix the Legions Imperialis Step 1: Identify IssuesStart by examining the Legions Imperialis Marines for any deformities or excess plastic.Note specific areas that need attention, such as the back of the gun, gaps between limbs, or any other noticeable imperfections.Step 2: Gather MaterialsObtain a scalpel, ensuring it is sharp for precision.Prepare Tamiya extra thin glue or a similar product for smoothing and blending the cut areas.Have your choice of paints ready for later stages.Step 3: Cut Excess PlasticCarefully use the scalpel to cut away excess plastic, following the natural lines of the model.Focus on areas where the deformities are most prominent, like the back of the gun or gaps between limbs.Be careful, as the models are small, and small, deliberate movements are essential.Step 4: Clean Up the CutsUse the scalpel to clean up the cut areas, creating a neat and smooth finish.Don’t worry too much about perfect precision, as the Tamiya glue will help blend and soften the edges later.Step 5: Address Specific IssuesPay extra attention to problematic areas, such as gaps between limbs or any distorted sections.Address these issues with precise cuts and clean-ups to improve the overall appearance.Step 6: Apply Tamiya Extra Thin GlueRun Tamiya extra thin glue over the cut areas to soften and blend the plastic.This step is crucial for achieving a seamless look and hiding any imperfections from the cuts.Step 7: PaintingOnce the glue has dried, proceed with painting the Legions Imperialis Marines! Why not follow one of my tutorials? While this process may seem meticulous, it’s essential to note that the level of detail and effort put into fixing the models is a personal choice. Not everyone may find it necessary, especially for gaming purposes. However, for those who are particular about the appearance of their models, these steps offer a solution to improve the overall look of the Legions Imperialis Marines. Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Trugg the Troggoth King – Kit Review and Gap Filling Guide

Here is a kit review for the New Trugg the Troggoth King from the Gloomspite Gitz army. I also show how to fill in gaps in the plastic using Sprue Glue. Tools Used on Trugg the Troggoth King Sprue glue (made from Tamia extra thin glue and waste sprue) Tamiya extra thin glue Tamiya sanding pads Modelling putty (optional, mentioned as an alternative to sprue glue for a longer but more detailed process) Sandpaper Step by Step Guide Begin by assembling the model, focusing on its open design to make painting easier.Glue the model together, leaving only the head separate for more detailed painting. Notice join lines, especially on areas like horns, where the gaps are obvious and need attention Prepare sprue glue by cutting waste sprue from a plastic kit.Place the sprue pieces into a container with Tamiya extra thin glue, ensuring the consistency is not too thin. Use the sprue glue to fill join lines by blobbing it onto the gaps.Ensure the sprue glue is thick enough, containing sufficient plastic material. After applying sprue glue, use Tamiya extra thin glue to blend and smooth the surface.Work the extra thin glue to create a seamless transition, eliminating hard, bumpy edges. Cut off excess sprue glue after it has been applied and blended.Allow the model to dry overnight for the sprue glue to set completely.If desired, go back and sand over the top for a smoother finish.Use Tamiya sanding pads or similar tools for flexibility, especially on organic shapes Prime the model after gap-filling to see how well the join lines have vanished.Note any minor indentations, which can be painted over as part of the organic shape. If there are concerns with the sculpting of rock parts or moss details, sneakily mask them by adding additional textures using materials like sand or other textured elements. More Assembly Tutorials Lots More Tutorials! Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints

Two videos on how I painted this Rockgut Troggoth quickly using Contrast Paints, with step by step guides to the methods I used with which paints. Read on and good luck! Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step GuideVideo Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsMaterials and Paints:StepsShow it off!More Free Video Tutorials Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Paints and Materials Needed Black Primer Wraithbone (Games Workshop) Contrast Paints (Magos Purple, Skeleton Horde, Wyldwood, Aethermatic Blue, Black Templar – all from Games Workshop) P3 Morrow White (or any alternative white paint) Fine Brushes Airbrush (optional) Wet Palette Step by Step Guide Base Coating with Contrast Paints: After priming your Rockgut Troggoth with black and then applying a zenithal highlight of Wraithbone (using an airbrush or rattle-can), start applying contrast paints. Focus on using Magos Purple for the skin, being generous with the paint to ensure proper flow and coverage. Handling Overpainting and Pooling: If you accidentally overpaint or encounter pooling, use a clean brush to soak up the excess. Remember, contrast paints are designed to settle in recesses, so a heavier application is acceptable. Painting Other Elements: Use different contrast paints for various parts of the model. Apply Skeleton Horde for the teeth, toenails, and wrappings, and Wildwood for the hammer’s handle. The nature of contrast paints means they will flow into crevices and recesses, creating natural shadows. Applying Contrast to the Rocky Skin: For the rocky skin and other stone-like textures, use Aethermatic Blue. The contrast paints will naturally create a depth effect, with darker areas in recesses and brighter highlights on raised surfaces. Utilising Black Templar for Darker Areas: Apply Black Templar contrast paint for the rock elements and the loincloth. This step will provide a solid base and emphasise the darker regions of the Troggoth. Review and Adjust: Once all the contrast paints are applied, review your model. The use of different contrast paints should have already created a variety of tones and shades on the model. If necessary, touch up any areas where the paint may have pooled excessively or where coverage is uneven. Enhancing Highlights on the Skin: To enhance the skin, mix some P3 Morrow White with Magos Purple to create a light purple hue. Apply this mixture to the skin’s raised areas, following the zenithal highlights you established earlier. This step will add more depth and dimension to the Troggoth’s skin. Adding Detail to Crystal Skin: For the crystal-like skin, create a mixture of Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue. Focus on painting the flat, upward-facing surfaces of the crystals to mimic the appearance of hard, reflective edges. Video Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints Materials and Paints: Games Workshop: Magos Purple (Contrast), Plaguebearer Flesh (Contrast), Slaanesh Grey, Daemonette Hide, Balor Brown, Moot Green, XV-88, Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone, Naggaroth Night Vallejo: Ice Yellow (or Dorn Yellow) P3: Morrow White (or White Scar) Steps Rock-Like Skin Textures: Mix Aethermatic Blue with white for a greeny-grey shade. Apply to the flat surfaces and edges of the rocky textures. Highlight with pure white (Morrow White/White Scar). Skin Highlights: Use pre-mixed Magos Purple and white for primary skin highlights. Add secondary highlights with Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide, focusing on reflective light areas. Wood Detailing: Apply Balor Brown for the base wood grain on the mallet. Highlight progressively with XV-88 and Zandri Dust. Final highlights with Ushabti Bone. Rock and Wood Texturing: Glaze rock textures with Naggaroth Night to deepen shadows. Lightly glaze wood with Plaguebearer Flesh for a mossy effect. Loincloth and Trinkets: Base the loincloth with XV-88, highlight with Zandri Dust, and then Ushabti Bone. Paint trinkets starting with XV-88, highlight with Balor Brown, then Ice Yellow for brightest points. Final Highlights and Adjustments: Reapply Magos Purple and white mix on skin for final highlights. Highlight rock textures with Morrow White. Apply Moot Green selectively for contrast, especially in shadows. Unify with Naggaroth Night glaze to smooth transitions and deepen shadows. Troggoth Eyes and Claws: Base eyes with Yriel Yellow, add a white dot for the pupil. Claw highlights with Ushabti Bone for depth. Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint an Ork Beastboss

These videos shows how to paint an Ork Beastboss to a high level tabletop standard.In them, we are aiming to achieve a rugged, battle-worn look, emphasising strong contrasts and weathered metallics. Quick Jump to: Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part OneMaterials NeededStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossVideo – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part TwoPaints UsedStep-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork BeastbossPDF GuideFree Video Tutorials There is also a detailed 26 page PDF guide for this model, which can be found here. Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part One All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials Needed Ork Beastboss Miniature Brushes: Various sizes for different techniques Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast) Vallejo Paints: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white will do) Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss Priming and Zenithal Highlighting: Prime the model black and apply a zenithal highlight using Vallejo Pale Grey Blue. This creates natural shadows and highlights, guiding future paint layers. Skin Tones: Paint the Ork’s flesh using a 50/50 mix of Ork Flesh Contrast and Contrast Medium. This enables some of the grey from the zenithal highlighting to show through, providing a guide for later highlights. Fur and Details: Apply Skeleton Horde Contrast directly for fur, ensuring highlights are visible. Use Volupus Pink Contrast for lizard-like skin textures and Blood Angel Red Contrast for the top knot and tassel. Armour and Metallics: Paint areas intended to be bronzy or gold with Gryph-Hound Orange Contrast. This creates a dark orange base over the light grey zenithal highlights. For black areas or parts you want darker, mix Black Templar Contrast with Contrast Medium and apply. Bronze Metallics: Start painting the skeleton head and other bronzy parts. Use scratchy, rough strokes to build up layers, starting from a darker base and gradually adding lighter colours for highlights. Highlight Placement: Follow the guide provided by the zenithal priming for light placement, enhancing it with further highlights where needed. Steel Armor: For a steel-like finish on certain armour parts, use a similar scratchy technique, starting with Vallejo Dark Sea Grey and building up to lighter greys and whites. Weathering and Rust: Add weathering using Mournfang Brown and Trollslayer Orange, focusing on recessed areas, rivets, and parts where rust naturally accumulates. Video – How to Paint an Ork Beastboss : Part Two Paints Used Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Contrast Medium, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Ork Flesh (Contrast), Skeleton Horde (Contrast), Black Templar (Contrast), Blood Angel Red (Contrast), Gryph-Hound Orange (Contrast), Flesh Tearers Red (Contrast), Volupus Pink (Contrast) Vallejo: Dark Sea Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White (Any white will do) Step-by-step Guide on How to Paint the Ork Beastboss Picking up from where we left off in the first guide… 1. Sword (Big Chopper) with Rusty Texture Base Layer: Start with Rhinox Hide, using a scribbly and scratchy technique similar to the armour’s style. This creates a dark base for the flat of the blade. If Rhinox Hide is unavailable, mix Mournfang Brown with Black for a close approximation. Stippling Technique: Apply Mournfang Brown with stippling, creating a rusty texture. Remember, the paint can be a bit thicker here to add texture. Additional Rust Effect: Use Trollslayer Orange for more rust detail, focusing on areas like the top hook of the blade. This paint is slightly translucent, so you might need to layer it for a stronger effect. 2. Highlighting the Blade Scratches and Cutting Edge: Use lighter colours like Pale Grey Blue and White to highlight and define scratches and the cutting edge of the blade. This gives a contrasting effect to the rusty areas. Bounce Highlights: Consider adding bounce highlights to reflect the battlefield’s environment, like green reflections for a green terrain. 3. Horns and Fur Base Colours: Use the same colours as the blade for consistency. Start with a mix of Rhinox Hide and Morghast Bone. Highlighting: Gradually lighten the base with pure Morghast Bone and then Screaming Skull, focusing more on the base of the horns and the top of the fur for a natural gradient. 4. The Face Initial Layers: Begin with a base of Warboss Green. You might need several layers due to its translucency. To reduce the shine from contrast paints, apply an ultra-matte varnish partway through the painting process. Detailing: Add more detail than is sculpted, especially around the temple and eyes, to create a more menacing look. Use Warboss Green mixed with Screaming Skull for highlights, making the face a focal point. 5. Teeth and Bone Decorations Base Colour: For teeth and bone-like decorations, start with a base of Balor Brown. Texture Technique: Use a stippling and scratchy technique for texture, similar to the horns and fur. 6. Red Hair Base and Highlights: Start with a base of Evil Sunz Scarlet. For highlighting, mix in a bit of white for a slightly pinkish hue, but be careful not to overdo it. Detailing: Use vertical strokes to highlight, focusing on the strands without overly brightening the recesses. 7. Loin Cloth (Lizard Skin) Base Layer: Use Xereus Purple over a base that was previously primed and given a coat of Volupus Pink. Highlighting: Highlight selectively, focusing on larger scales and facets. Use lighter shades of purple mixed with white for the highlights, but remember to keep the overall area dark for contrast. 8. Verdigris Effect on Bronze Areas Base Colour: Apply Sotek Green, watered down for a flowing effect into recesses. Layering: Add white to Sotek Green for progressive highlights, focusing on the darker areas and avoiding the brightest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen. 9. Back to the Face Detailed Texturing: Add more detailed textures to the face using the lighter green mixture, emphasizing areas where light hits directly. Balancing Highlights: Alternate between highlighting and shading to balance the contrast and maintain the focus on the face. 10. Finishing the Eyes Initial Layers: Start with a base of Pearl Grey Blue, then define the iris with Sotek Green. Highlighting: Use lighter shades of blue for the lower parts of the eyes. For the final highlights, map out the placement with the first highlight blue, focusing on the top left to represent the light source. 11. Final Touches Teeth and Tongue: Paint teeth in Balor Brown and adjust the tongue if needed. Bone Decorations: Add final touches to bone decorations, ensuring they stand out against the hair. Red Hair: Refine the highlights and ensure they blend well with the base colour. And there you have it, your Ork Beastboss is now ready for battle, boasting a range of textures and colours, all contributing to its fierce and battle-worn appearance. For more detailed instruction, check out the PDF Guide! PDF Guide I have also created a detailed 26 page PDF guide on painting this model, that can be found here for full website members: How to Paint an Ork Beastboss – PDF Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Video Tutorial: Stab Grot! The most powerful model from the Age of Sigmar Dominion box!

The most powerful model from the Age of Sigmar Dominion box! I thought it was time that I painted the most powerful model from the new Age of Sigmar Dominion box! It’s the mighty Stab-Grot! Materials Required: Stab Grot miniature, fully assembled and primed with Scale 75 Surface Black Primer Paints: Games Workshop (Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Firedragon Bright, Daemonette Hide, Sotek Green, XV-88, Moot Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet), Vallejo (Ice Yellow, Black, Neutral Grey, White, German Grey, Pale Grey Blue) Brushes, including a fine detail brush (size 00 recommended) Painting Process: Base Layers: Begin with Vallejo German Grey, applying it to the armoured parts using a scratchy technique. Concentrate on lighter points where light naturally falls (shoulder, forearm), but ensure even coverage. Adding Tones: Apply Daemonette Hide for a subtle hint of colour. Use the same method as with German Grey but in smaller areas, allowing the underlying grey to show through for texture. Highlights and Shading: Combine Pale Grey Blue and Daemonette Hide for highlights. Aim for a grimy, non-polished metal appearance. Use white sparingly to highlight edges and dents. Skin Tones: Start with Sotek Green, progressively adding Moot Green and white for highlights. Focus on creating soft transitions with diluted paint for a realistic skin effect. Leather Details: Base with Rhinox Hide, then layer with XV-88 and Cadian Fleshtone, concentrating on edges and scratches. Use watered-down Mournfang Brown for a glazing effect, softening the highlights. Red Cloth: Base with Mephiston Red, layering for opacity. Highlight with Evil Sunz Scarlet, careful not to overdo it to preserve the red’s vibrancy. Final Touches: Add final details such as rust on the blade with Mournfang Brown and scratches with Ice Yellow. Remember, moderation is key for a realistic weathered look. Tips for Success: Pay attention to natural light fall for realistic highlights and shadows. Use a scratchy technique for armour to create texture and a weathered appearance. Thin your paints for smoother transitions, especially on the skin. Avoid over-highlighting reds to prevent a pink or orange shade. Patience and attention to detail are vital for a small, detailed model like Stab Grot. Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Castellax from the Mechanicum Battle Force Box

This video guide and full instructions will walk you how to paint a Castellax model from the Mechanicum Battle Force box set. The goal is to achieve a high-quality tabletop standard using quick, repeatable techniques—no airbrush required! The process focuses on achieving a grimy, weathered look that complements a Death Guard army. Video – How to Paint a Castellax from the Mechanicum Battle Force Box Paints and Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow Vallejo: Model Colour Black Scalecolour: Necro Gold Pro Acryl: Light Bronze Metallic P3: Morrow White Brushes: Artis Opus Size 4 (Worn-out brush for stippling) Artis Opus Size 3M (Shorter bristle brush for dry brushing) Size 0 brush (for detailing) Size 00 brush (for fine details) A piece of dense foam (for sponge chipping) Step 1: Preparation Begin by assembling the model, leaving the legs separate from the torso to make painting easier. This is a common technique to manage sub-assemblies, allowing easier access to harder-to-reach areas and making the model more manageable to hold. All I’ve done there is put some sprue glue and I’d left that to dry so I hadn’t sanded that down perfectly smooth here because the shoulder pad’s coming two parts and you can clearly see how one part connects to the other, but they are glued onto the model at the moment. While it’s possible to leave the shoulder pads off to make painting easier, it’s up to personal preference. Some may find that too many sub-assemblies can result in scattered parts and unfinished projects. If you do decide to leave them off, it will make painting these parts slightly easier, especially when it comes to avoiding overspill. Step 2: Base Coat Prime the model with a black base coat using Vallejo Model Colour Black. This forms a solid foundation for the metallic and armour colours, ensuring good coverage and depth in subsequent layers. “The first thing we’re doing is using some scale colour necro gold… I haven’t really watered it down too much… you want it reasonably runny but not too runny.” Ensure the base coat is smooth and even, as this will help the metallics and other layers adhere better and produce a cleaner finish. Step 3: Metallic Base Use Scalecolour Necro Gold to cover all metal areas of the model. Apply this using a stippling technique with a worn-out Artis Opus Size 4 brush. The goal here is to create a textured, weathered look on the metallic areas. Be cautious with the thickness of the paint to avoid unwanted texture buildup, as you only want the paint to create a visual texture, not a physical one. “You’re just doing that all over all the metal areas on the model… be careful of physical texture buildup… the only texture you want really on the model is painting texture, not three-dimensional thick paint texture.” Next, use Pro Acryl Light Bronze Metallic to highlight raised areas. Focus on prominent features like the dome of the head, flamer nozzles, and the edges of the armour. Switch to a Size 3M Artis Opus brush for more control, as its shorter bristles help achieve a smooth application with this dry brushing technique. “This is a little bit thinner than the Necro Gold and the idea with this is you’re doing a very similar kind of process with it… don’t go too crazy with the light bronze because it is a very light colour; it almost looks silver when you apply it.” Step 4: Clean Up Once the metallics are dry, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to go back over any areas where metallic paint has spilled onto the armour panels. This clean-up step is crucial for keeping the final look neat and avoiding metallic flakes showing through when painting the armour colours. “When I was painting the metal I didn’t care where the paint got onto armour panels… it makes the process much quicker, and you don’t have to worry… just keeps everything looking neat.” Take your time with this step to ensure all overspill is covered, particularly in recesses and around edges where the metallics might have spread. Step 5: Armour Panels Start by applying Games Workshop Balor Brown, thinned with water in a 1:1 ratio. Stipple this over all armour panels using the Size 3M brush. This technique creates a textured, weathered effect that forms the base layer for the armour. “You’re basically covering all of the armour panels with that stippling effect… a large brush makes it hard to paint in some of these recess areas without getting the paint onto the metal.” Next, apply Games Workshop Morghast Bone in the same manner, focusing on the curves and raised areas of the armour. The goal here is to start building up lighter areas, enhancing the depth and contrast on the model. “You want the area to look darker in the recesses anyway… making sort of like a very soft light volume onto the armour.” Finally, highlight the most prominent areas with Screaming Skull. As you progress to lighter colours, apply the paint more carefully, focusing on areas where light naturally hits the model, such as the tops of the shoulder pads, the chest, and the front-facing parts of the armour. “We’re trying to get those highlight positions and be a little bit more accurate with it… you want to rotate the brush around a little bit and you also want to make sure that when you dab the brush onto the model you have it straight on.” Remember to dab off any excess paint on kitchen roll before applying it to the model to avoid blobs or streaks. Step 6: Applying Wash Mix Darkoath Flesh Contrast with Contrast Medium in a 1:1 ratio. Apply this wash over the entire model, covering both the armour and metallic areas. This step is essential for toning down the highlights, blending the colours, and adding a grimy effect that suits the model’s aesthetic. “If you use water, you will actually destroy the effect the way that the contrast paint works… it will give a very smooth, clean finish all over.” Be mindful of pooling, especially in recesses. Use a clean brush to wick away any excess wash from these areas to maintain the model’s detail. Contrast paint is slightly thick, so if you have a big pool of contrast paint, it will dry and it will just start to kind of gloss over some of the details. Step 7: Decals and Further Weathering If using decals, apply them at this stage. Use Micro Set to position them and ensure they blend seamlessly with the surface. For a more integrated look, consider applying the decals before the Darkoath Flesh wash so that they naturally blend into the model’s finish. After the decals are in place, stipple Morghast Bone along their edges to simulate chipping and wear, especially around the corners and where the decals might receive the most damage. Finally, apply another layer of the Darkoath Flesh wash over the decals to blend them further and reduce the starkness of the decal’s edges. Step 8: Sponge Chipping Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water in a 1:1 ratio. Use a piece of dense foam (such as that from old Warhammer clamshell packs) to sponge this onto the edges and areas likely to receive wear and tear. Focus on creating an irregular, natural pattern, with more chipping towards the front and the edges of the armour. “You want to pay attention to the position of the weathering… it’s very easy to rub an edge against something, whereas the flat surface is less likely to get any damage.” Before applying, dab the sponge on kitchen roll to remove excess paint. This prevents the foam from dumping too much paint onto the model, which could create an unwanted texture buildup. “When you put the foam into the paint, you need to dab it off on some kitchen roll… you want to remove the excess paint.” Step 9: Detailing Using a Size 00 brush, paint fine scratches and streaks with Rhinox Hide. Place these near areas likely to see heavy use or impact, such as around weapons or sharp edges. This step adds realism and depth to the model by simulating wear and tear. For larger chips created during the sponge chipping, consider adding a highlight line with Morghast Bone on the lower edge of the chip to simulate light catching the edge of the flaked paint. “Picking out a few edges here and there… it makes it look like a chip and the light’s catching the flake of paint.” Run the side of your brush along the edges of the armour to create subtle highlights, but focus primarily on upward-facing edges where light would naturally hit. Step 10: Grimy Weathering For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model, Step 11: Further Grimy Weathering For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model, particularly around the chainsaw blade hands, where the most action would occur. If desired, you can mix a bit of red into the Darkoath Flesh to create a fresher, bloodier effect, adding another layer of realism to the model’s grimy appearance. Step 12: Verdigris (Optional) To add a verdigris effect to the metal areas, mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green in a 50:50 ratio, then thin it heavily with water (4:1). Apply this wash into the recesses and areas where water might naturally collect, simulating the patina of aged copper. If you want to push the verdigris further, add a touch of white to the mix for the most extreme recesses, but be careful not to overdo it as it can make the effect too opaque. Step 13: Metallic Highlights Reapply the Light Bronze Metallic sparingly to the highest points of the metallic areas to restore some shine lost during the wash step. This should be done with a very fine brush and thinned paint (2:1 water to paint) to maintain control and avoid overpowering the subtle weathering. Step 14: Lenses (Optional) For the lenses, start with Warpstone Glow, then layer Moot Green, followed by a final highlight with Flash Gitz Yellow. This creates a gradient effect that mimics light shining through the lens. “This makes it slightly less shiny… it just depends on how you want to do it; I just like the way this looks personally.” Finish by adding a small white dot in the top left corner of each lens for a reflective effect, bringing the lenses to life and adding a focal point to the model. Final Touches and Further Tips As you finish your Castellax, take a moment to review your work and touch up any areas that may need it. Focus on ensuring your highlights are consistent, your grime looks natural, and that the overall effect is cohesive and fitting with the rest of your army. Further Tips: Patience with Stippling: When stippling, less is often more. Build up your layers gradually and step back occasionally to check the overall effect. This prevents overworking the model and keeps the texture subtle and realistic. Experiment with Washes: The mix of Contrast Medium with Darkoath Flesh can be adjusted to suit your preference. A thicker wash will give a grimier look, while a thinner wash will maintain more of the underlying colour. Don’t be afraid to experiment on a test model or a hidden part of the figure. Edge Highlighting: For a clean and professional finish, take your time with edge highlighting. While it may seem tedious, careful edge highlighting can significantly enhance the depth and definition of your model, making it stand out on the tabletop. Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: Alchemite Warforger (Short version)

Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version! The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger Preparation: Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set. Prime the model with black primer. Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!) Helmet Painting: Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet. Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls. Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering. Metal Painting: Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects. Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone. Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture. Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas. Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections. Leather Parts: Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide. Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint. Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look. Highlighting: Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks. For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference. Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast. For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core. Skin Painting: Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown. Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white. Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather. Final Details: Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look. Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect. Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect. Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions. Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting! More Full Character Tutorials Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Howling Banshee

These videos show how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee to a high level tabletop standard, ideal for a commanding presence in your army or for smaller game systems like Kill Team. Part One – How to Paint a Howling BansheeMaterials NeededPaints NeededStep-by-Step Tips and GuidePart Two: How to Paint a Howling Banshee WeaponMaterials NeededStep-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMMMore Video Tutorials Part One – How to Paint a Howling Banshee This session focuses on achieving a detailed, bone-coloured armour synonymous with Howling Banshees. All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials Needed Aeldari Howling Banshee Miniature Brushes: Various sizes, including a size two for base coating and size 00 Artist Opus (or equivalent) for detail work. Paints Needed Games Workshop Paints: Base Colours: Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Sotek Green Shades and Glazes: Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium Highlight and Detail Colours: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Corvus Black (for black areas) Vallejo Paints: Basalt Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Ice Yellow (for non-metallic metals) P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white for extreme highlights) Step-by-Step Tips and Guide Base Coating and Stippling: Prime the miniature and begin with a stippling technique using Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone. Apply the paint thinly and evenly with a dry brush for a smooth base. Adding Depth with Contrast Paint: Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with Contrast Medium and apply over the stippled areas for added depth. Refining Armour with Stippling: Progressively build up highlights with Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull, and Morrow White. Focus on light placement to enhance features, keeping the paint watered down for a soft finish. Glazing for Shadows: Thin down Mournfang Brown considerably and apply in recesses to deepen shadows. Painting the Eyes and Non-Metallic Metals: Use Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and Basalt Grey for non-metallic metal areas, ensuring the correct placement of light and reflections. Hair and Cloth Details: Base the hair with Mephiston Red, building up highlights with Evil Sunz Scarlet and white. For the black areas, create subtle highlights with Basalt Grey and Pale Grey Blue, avoiding an overly grey appearance. Final Touches: Refine details, adjust highlights, and ensure a balanced, cohesive look. Part Two: How to Paint a Howling Banshee Weapon The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights. Materials Needed Cybrite Green (Games Workshop) Black (Vallejo Model Colour) Ice Yellow (Vallejo) Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop) Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop) Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop) Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white) A fine brush A wet palette Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM Base Layer: Firstly, coat the power weapon in black, creating a pristine base. Green Layering: Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the weapon less exposed to light. Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions. Highlight Application: Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes. Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint. Texture via Stippling: With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity. Reflections Definition: Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts. Finalising Highlights: Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect. Gemstone Painting: For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection. For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights. Refinement and Adjustment: If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred. Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance. More Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator

This video shows the complete process for How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator from Games Workshop including a step by step text guide and full list of colours needed. Paints and Tools The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Warpstone Glow, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Lothern Blue, Blue Horror, XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Fire Dragon Bright, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Pale Grey Blue, White Grey, Ice Yellow How to Paint a Nighthaunt Krulghast Cruciator Step 1: Base Coating with Airbrush Ensure the model is completely built and primed. Separate the model into two sections for easier painting. Use an airbrush with a 0.4 sized nozzle to apply a base coat of red at the top and blue at the bottom. Mask off areas to avoid overspray and focus on highlighting towards the head and shoulders. Step 2: Adding Highlights with Airbrush Use Mephiston Red for the red sections and Fire Dragon Bright for the blue sections. Be cautious with lighter colours as they can be challenging to airbrush without speckles. Pay attention to angles to avoid overspraying onto other parts of the model. Gradually build up the highlights, especially on the tips of the tendrils. Step 3: Transitioning Colours Use White or Fire Dragon Bright for highlights, but be mindful not to turn the red into pink. Consider the translucency of the paint and how it interacts with layers. Be strategic in highlighting to maintain the desired colour intensity. Step 4: Detailing with Brushes Switch to a smaller brush for fine details and lines. Use Vallejo’s White Gray or a similar colour for opaque and solid highlights. Follow the sculpted details and angles on the model for a stylised effect. Step 5: Creating Contrast and Highlights on the Helmet Apply XV88 and Balor Brown to create contrast and define shapes. Add edge highlights to enhance details and create shine spots. Use Vallejo’s White Gray for additional highlights. Step 6: Adding Filigree Details Add filigree details to areas like the cross for a shiny effect Reinforce the glare by going over edges with a blob of paint. Ensure consistency and follow the sculpting direction for a polished look. Step 7: Refining Highlights and Shadows Glaze over the model to blend highlights and shadows. Tidy up and pick out additional details using Blue Horror. Use Wild Rider Red for final touches on certain areas. Step 8: Painting Wood Effect Cover everything with Rhinox Hide for the wood effect. Be rough and don’t worry about spikes; paint over them and pick them out in black later. Focus on pushing lightness towards the edges of each wood plank. Step 9: Adding Green Flame Use Warpstone Glow for the green flame. Be aware of the paint’s bad coverage and apply multiple coats for saturation. Add a small bright yellow dot for high contrast. Step 10: Applying Matte VarnishFinish by applying a coat of ultra-matte varnish to even out the surface and remove shine. Explore more tutorials Liked this video? Check out all my latest subscriber videos by clicking the thumbnails below, or explore more freebies by clicking here [...]

How to Paint a Desolation Dark Angel

This video tutorial and step-by-step guide shows how to paint a Desolation Dark Angel, one of the new Desolation Marines from the Strike Force Agastus, which was sent to me by Games Workshop. Read on for a full video, lots of tips and full materials and paints list. Video Tutorial – Desolation Dark Angel Materials: Vallejo Model Colour (New): Angel Green, Charcoal, Toxic Yellow, Black, Turquoise, Aquamarine, Grunge Brown, Orange Fire, Nocturnal Red, Scarlet Blood Games Workshop: Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium Two Thin Coats: Plate Armour, Dragon’s Gold P3: Morrow White Steps: Base Coat:Mix Angel Green and Charcoal (50:50 ratio).Apply this mix over the entire model using a large dry brush or makeup brush.Water the paint down slightly for a smoother application, aiming for a 50:50 water-to-paint ratio. Layering:Apply straight Angel Green on top, using a kitchen roll to dab off excess paint for a thin layer.Focus on light volumes, covering flat surfaces more than edges. Metallics:Paint metallic areas using Two Thin Coats’ Plate Armour and Dragon’s Gold.Thin these slightly for better flow and coverage. Red Details:Use Nocturnal Red and Scarlet Blood for red areas, like the gun.Mix them for a base layer, then use Scarlet Blood mixed with a bit of white for highlights. Adding Depth:Use Vallejo Black for shading and defining darker areas. Highlighting Armour:Create three mixes on your palette: pure Angel Green, a 50:50 mix of Angel Green and Toxic Yellow, and a majority Toxic Yellow with a small amount of Angel Green.Apply these mixes progressively, starting with the darkest and moving to the lightest for highlights. Use a brush control technique similar to edge highlighting. Contrast and Washes:Apply Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) selectively, followed by Contrast Medium for dilution in specific areas.Use Nuln Oil for metallic parts to create depth. Detailing Metallics:Add highlights to metallic areas using a mix of Plate Armour and white. Eyes and Lenses:Paint eyes with a base of Nocturnal Red, adding highlights with a mix of Scarlet Blood and white.Use a small white dot for reflection. For lenses, use Turquoise mixed with Charcoal, then highlight with Aquamarine and pure white. Final Touches:Add fine scratches and details using lighter shades of the base colours.For the belt, use Grunge Brown base and Orange Fire for highlights. Basing:Apply PVA glue and sand.Once dry, wash with Agrax Earthshade and apply weathering powder. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer with Contrast Paints

This video looks at the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and I use them to paint a very colourful Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer. Read on to watch and follow along with a detailed step-by-step paints and steps guide. Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Mantis Warriors Green (Contrast), Striking Scorpion Green (Contrast), Karandras Green (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Magmadroth Flame (Contrast), Baal Red (Contrast), Doomfire Magenta (Contrast), Sigvald Burgundy (Contrast), Seraphim Sepia (Shade), Flash Gitz Yellow, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Xereus Purple Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Matt P3: Morrow White (Any White will do) Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer Priming and Preparing the Model Start by assembling and priming your Gossamid Archer model. Use Wraithbone as a base colour, which helps in achieving brighter, cleaner colours. If you want an even brighter finish, you can spray the whole model white. A zenithal highlight can be applied to create natural focal points on the head and chest, allowing for more dynamic shading. Applying Base Colours with Contrast Paints Begin painting with a variety of contrast paints to achieve a vibrant and varied colour scheme. Use a large brush like an Artist Opus size 4 for quick application. Key contrast paints to use are Striking Scorpion Green, Karandras Green, and Garaghak’s Sewer. While the paints are still wet, you can blend them together on the model for a smooth transition. However, be cautious of drying times to avoid streaking. Correcting and Refining with Airbrush If needed, refine areas with an airbrush. For instance, overpainting with Striking Scorpion Green can provide a more opaque and smoother finish, especially on the wings. Mixing Contrast Paints with Acrylics Contrast paints can be mixed with regular acrylics for more versatility. Mix Striking Scorpion Green with P3 Morrow White to create various shades for highlighting. This method allows for smooth transitions and a semi-translucent finish. Painting Wings with Dragonfly Effect For a dragonfly-like effect on the wings, use a mix of Striking Scorpion Green and white to paint vein-like lines, emulating a dragonfly’s wing pattern. Start with basic lines, then create four-sided shapes like rectangles or squares, resembling the vein structure. The lines don’t need to be perfect, as the organic nature of the wings allows for some variation. Ensure your brush isn’t overloaded with paint for finer lines. Skin and Body Details For the skin, use Magmadroth Flame contrast paint, which provides a strong, vibrant base while still allowing for natural shading in recesses. For the arm and other body parts, apply Sigvald Burgundy, Baal Red, Doomfire Magenta, and other contrast colours, blending while they are wet for a smooth transition. Use smaller brushes for detailed areas, and ensure you cover all surfaces. Highlighting and Detailing Highlight the skin by mixing Magmadroth Flame with Kislev Flesh, gradually adding more Kislev Flesh and white for higher highlights. Apply these mixes to the raised areas like shoulders, chest, and arms. For the hair, start with a vibrant base of Flash Gitz Yellow, dulled down with a Seraphim Sepia wash. Highlight by adding white to Flash Gitz Yellow for a striking effect. Bow and Other Accessories Paint the bow using Rhinox Hide, XV-88, and Balor Brown, adding white for final highlights. Keep the painting simple, avoiding overly intricate freehand patterns unless desired. Remember to mix and match colours to add more interest to the model. Finishing Touches with Matt Varnish Once the painting is complete, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This will unify the finish of the model, reducing any unwanted shine from the contrast paints and enhancing the overall appearance. More Contrast Paint Projects and Tutorials More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz with Two Thin Coats (Duncan Rhodes) Paints!

This video shows you how to paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz army for Age of Sigmar. The model was painted exclusively using Two Thin Coats paints.In this how to paint a Squigboss video, we’ll be doing something a bit different. I’ll guide you through the process of painting the Squig boss, generously sent to me by Games Workshop. Alongside, I’ll be reviewing a set of paints I personally purchased, intrigued by reviews—the Two Thin Coats series by Duncan Rhodes. These paints will exclusively adorn our Squigboss, and I’ve procured them independently. So, no sponsorships or freebies; it’s all about exploring these paints. Now, let’s get started! All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). The following paints were used:Two Thin Coats: Two Thin Coats: Doom Death Black, White Star, Etheral Green, Carcharodon Grey, Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, Skeleton Legion, Demon Red, Scorched Earth, Dragon Fang, Boar Hide, Sanguine Scarlet, Dwarven Skin, Marine Blue, Orange Flare, Emerald Green, Wolf Grey, Fanatic Orange, Cuirass Leather, Berserker Red Tips on how to paint a Squigboss with these paints! Base Coat with Boar Hide Colour:Initiate with the “Boar Hide” shade, akin to Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, serving as the foundational coat for the entire Squig boss model. Non-Metallic Metal Gold Face Mask:I’ve gone for a non-metallic gold style for the goblin’s face mask, utilising the unique properties of the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats series.Apply the same colours used for the face mask on the staff, creating a non-metallic metal effect. Note differences in technique for different areas. Adapting to Paint Properties:The paints seem quite nice to work with. Thinning is essential, however, and adapting to the colours’ strength becomes a creative challenge. Use Translucent Marks for Subtle Effects:Experiment with translucent or softer marks by thinning the paint more. This technique can be effective for creating subtle details but requires precision in application. Be Mindful of Paint Strength:As mentioned, the colour strength might be stronger than anticipated, so be cautious when adding subtle marks. Adjust as needed to avoid overpowering the model with vibrant colours. Varied Application Techniques:Explore different application techniques for varied textures and effects. The angular features of the model complement the paints’ adaptability very well and allows for creative highlighting and detailing Matte Finish and Dark Tones:Consider a matte finish for the model to achieve a pastel look. Embrace the dark and yellow tones for added depth and character. Diverse Colour Palette for Highlights:Incorporate a diverse colour palette, such as Dark Sun Yellow, for highlighting and detailing, providing a unique touch to gold and other elements. The matte finish and the richness these paints bring to dark and yellow tones is great. Quick Scratches and Detailing:Create quick, sharp scratches and detailing, adding interest to specific areas without the need for extensive blending. Quick and sharp detailing becomes a breeze with these paints, making them ideal for adding interesting detail without the need for laborious blending. Highlighting with Translucent White:Use translucent white for highlighting, applying small amounts to achieve a subtle effect. Ensure quick application to prevent drying before reaching the model. Colour Variations for Textures:Experiment with different colours for textures, adapting to the model’s features. Allow the varied palette to enhance details and bring out the intricacies. The paints are good at bringing out intricate details. Teeth Detailing:Detail the teeth with simple lines, complementing the skin fold creases. Use the extra detailing to fill spaces and add interest without smoothing transitions. Remember, the beauty lies in adapting and exploring the properties of the paints. Happy painting! Free Video Tutorials More free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer

In this tutorial, we’re diving into the wonderfully grim world of Nurgle as we explore how to bring the Rotbringer Sorcerer from Age of Sigmar to life with vivid detail. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting out, this step-by-step guide will equip you with techniques and tips to get going. Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part One: All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Video: How to Paint a Rotbringer Sorcerer – Part Two Materials and Paints Primer: Badger’s Ultimate Primer Black Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Skeleton Horde Contrast Vallejo Paints: Basalt Grey, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (optional) P3 Paints: Morrow White Step-by-Step Guide to the Rotbringer Sorceror: Preparation and Priming: Fully assemble your Rotbringer Sorcerer and prime it with a black primer. For easier access to intricate areas, consider leaving the arm that holds the scythe detached during priming. Base Coating: Apply base coats using Mournfang Brown for wooden elements and Basalt Grey for the cloak and scythe blade. Bugman’s Glow is ideal for flesh areas. Apply these base coats roughly, aiming for coverage rather than precision. Skin Tones: Enhance skin areas with Bugman’s Glow, providing a rosy, dark flesh tone. Progress with Cadian Fleshtone for highlights, ensuring to thin your paints for a smooth finish. Wood and Metal Detailing: Utilise Balor Brown for initial wood highlights, transitioning to Mournfang Brown for added depth. For metallic areas like the scythe blade, start with Rhinox Hide, building up to Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights. Create rust effects using Trollslayer Orange. Shading: Employ Corvus Black, adequately thinned, to add depth through shading across the model, focusing on recesses and shadowed areas. Detail Enhancement: Use Screaming Skull for edge highlights and detail work on scrolls and similar features. Maintain thin paint layers for refinement. Textures and Freehand Elements: Incorporate freehand elements like Nurgle symbols using Mephiston Red. Apply textures such as rust and wood grain using stippling techniques with Trollslayer Orange for rust and Morghast Bone for wood grain. Verdigris Effect: On copper elements, create a verdigris effect with Sotek Green mixed with white. Apply this judiciously to areas that would naturally show oxidation, steering clear of bright highlights. Candle Flames: Paint candle flames using Yriel Yellow, adding Trollslayer Orange to the tips. Blend these colours for a realistic flame appearance. Model Basing: Prepare a base that complements the model, using a mix of sand, poly filler, and paint it with XV-88, Morghast Bone, and weathering powder. Introduce grass patches for added realism. Final Adjustments: Revisit the Rotbringer Sorcerer for any last highlights or corrections. Use a precise brush for fine details, ensuring the paint consistency is suitable. Model Sealing: Once satisfied with the painting, apply a matte varnish to protect your work. Tips: Thin your paints for smoother layers and better control. Utilise an older brush for base coating and a newer, finer brush for detailed work. Regularly assess your work from a distance for adjustments. Experiment with light placement for dynamic highlighting and shadowing effects on your Rotbringer Sorceror. Initial layers don’t need perfection as they will be layered over with more detail. Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 More Nurgle Tutorials More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer

In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting. We’ll cover everything from essential tools and materials to step-by-step assembly instructions, ensuring you achieve a flawless finish on your model. Video: How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by Step Gather Your Tools: You’ll need Godhand clippers (or similar), a scalpel, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, and sprue glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement mixed with plastic sprue bits).Clean Your Model: Carefully clip out all the model pieces. Use your scalpel to scrape away any mould lines, always angling the blade away from the direction you’re moving to avoid cutting into the model. Take your time with this step.Remove Push-Fit Connections: Even though the model is push-fit, I cut off the connection points to avoid gaps and make painting easier. This makes for a cleaner fit. Assembly: Dry Fit: Before gluing, dry fit the pieces together to make sure everything lines up correctly.Glue Main Body: Apply a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to the connection points and join the pieces together. Use gentle pressure to ensure a tight fit.Leave the Head: Don’t glue the head yet, as this will make painting easier. Gap Filling: Identify Gaps: Look for any gaps or seams in the model where the pieces join.Apply Sprue Glue: Carefully apply sprue glue to the gaps, being careful not to get any on areas you don’t want to fill. Use the tip of your scalpel to guide the glue and remove any excess.What’s Sprue Glue? Follow this link to learn more.Smooth Out: Once the sprue glue is dry, use a fine file or sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges.Your Grey Seer model is now ready for priming and painting! Additional Tips: Work in a well-ventilated area as the glues and paints can be toxic. If you accidentally get sprue glue somewhere you don’t want it, you can try to quickly remove it with extra thin cement. Take your time and don’t rush the process. The more care you take in the preparation stages, the better the final result will be. If you’re painting a whole army, consider cutting some corners to save time, but still aim for a neat and tidy finish. Now you’ve learnt How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer, why not get started painting him? How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer! Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: How to paint OSL on the Vargskyr from Cursed City

This free video shows how to paint OSL on the Vargskyr from the Cursed City boxed game by Games Workshop with some easy to follow tips. The following paints were used on the modelGames Workshop: Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow, Baharroth Blue, Blue Horror, Contrast Skeleton Horde Vallejo: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Black, Pale Grey Blue Top Tips on How to paint OSL on the Vargskyr Priming and Base Coat: Start by priming the model with an ultimate primer, like Badger primer, for a slightly satin finish.Use a black base coat for the OSL (Object Source Lighting) effect, as it provides high contrast.Begin with Warpstone, applying a couple of coats with an airbrush for the green glow. Adding OSL Effect: For a sickly look, hold the airbrush a bit further and add yellow to the warp stone glow.Rotate the model to ensure lighting works from multiple angles.Reduce the spray area and focus on the back with Baharroth Blue to enhance the OSL effect. Matte Varnish and Detail Restoration: Apply a coat of ultra matte varnish, like Lucky Varnish by Mig, to eliminate shine – this brings back detail lost in the varnishing process.Consider using multiple layers for a transition effect as layers build up. Fur Texture: Use Baharroth Blue for fur, but be cautious as it may create a high-contrast jump.Blend Pale Grey Blue into the fur for a smoother transition, applying thinner coats for textured effects. Face Highlights: Highlight the face, a major focal point, using Skeleton Horde as a guide for placement.Don’t worry about neatness; embrace the furry, textured nature of the model. Texture Effect Painting: Use a small brush for texture effect painting, but feel free to experiment with brush sizes.Maintain a wet paint mixture for precise dry brushing on fur, enhancing the model’s expressive nature.Accept some roughness in the paint as it adds character to a gaming model. Green Glow and Final Touches: Continue working on the green glow side, following the same process as the light side.Avoid excessive airbrushing for a clinical look; embrace expressive marks.Add a slightly darker gray colour to enhance details on non-glowing areas. Frame with Black Rim: Paint the model’s base with a black rim to frame and enhance the overall neatness.Consider the model’s orientation and adjust the painting accordingly to avoid missing details. Blue Light from the Other Side: Using Baharroth Blue, dry brush in the direction of the light to create a blue light effect.Maintain a consistent direction, capturing angles that highlight the green glow, face, and arm. Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: How to Paint Darkstrider (Tau) for Warhammer 40K

This video shows How to Paint Darkstrider, who is a Tau special character for 40k.We’re aiming for a stealthy and moody look, differing from the standard bright and clear artwork. Because of that, it’s essential to prime the figure in black for the deep, shadowy effect we’re going for. How to Paint Darkstrider – Video All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials Needed: Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer Black Paints: Games Workshop (XV-88, Balor Brown, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Macragge Blue, Yriel Yellow), Vallejo (German Grey, Black, White, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey) Painting Steps: Priming: Begin by priming your miniature in black. This will enhance the darker, stealthy look of the character. Base Colours: Use XV-88 and Macragge Blue mixed with German Grey to create a desaturated base for the armour and cloth. This creates a dull, muted base, essential for the later stages of highlighting. Blocking In: Apply Vallejo Neutral Grey to areas that will become white. For black regions, use German Grey as your initial highlight. Remember not to overdo it, or you’ll end up with grey instead of black. Highlighting Armour: Start building highlights on the armour using a mix of XV-88 and German Grey, gradually adding less grey to each mix. Use a thin, 50:50 water-to-paint mix for a smooth transition. Focus on the chest and head for the brightest highlights, as they are the focal points. Face and Detailing: For the face, start with a base of Macragge Blue mixed with German Grey. Gradually add more blue and then white for highlights. Pay attention to the unique features of the Tau’s face, using the sculpt as a guide. Add detail and texture through your brushwork. Non-Metallic Gold Elements: Use XV-88 as a base for gold elements, highlighting progressively with Balor Brown and Ice Yellow. Remember, the brighter and larger your highlight, the shinier the gold will appear. How to Paint Darkstrider Lenses and Eyes: For the lens on the gun, start with Mephiston Red, adding Evil Sunz Scarlet and white for highlights. For Darkstrider’s eye, consider black with a yellow iris, as per the Warhammer animation. Final Touches: Check the overall miniature for balance in colour and highlights. Adjust and add final details as necessary. Remember, the model should look cohesive from all angles. Finishing: Once satisfied, you can finish your miniature with a suitable varnish to protect your work. Tips: Keep your brushwork consistent and controlled. Use a wet palette to keep your paints workable. Regularly step back and review your work for a balanced look. This process should give you a Darkstrider miniature with a stealthy, dark look, different from the standard bright Tau colour schemes. Enjoy your painting! More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour

This free video shows how to paint a Blood Angel in new Mark VI armour, from the Horus Heresy (make sure you are logged in to view!) Video: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials: Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Warboss Green, Moot Green, Mournfang Brown, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt IronP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush Step-by-Step: How to Paint A Blood Angel in MKVI Armour Preparation Clean Model: Ensure the model is cleaned of mold lines and primed. Drill the barrel for added realism if it hasn’t been done already. Assembly: Fully assemble the model before starting to paint. Base Coating Red Armor: First Layer: Start with Mephiston Red, diluting it to a 50/50 mix with water. Apply with a small drybrush or a large round soft brush, using a stippling motion to cover the armor. Second Layer: Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to areas where light naturally falls, like shoulders and helmet, using a gentler stippling motion. Final Layer: Add Wild Rider Red to the brightest areas, but be careful as it’s a pinky-orange hue. This layer is just for the very highlights. Detailing Metallics: Paint metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron. These metallics have good coverage, so there’s no need for a black undercoat. Once dry, apply a coat of gloss varnish (optional). Eyes: Start with Warboss Green for the base of the eye lenses. Add Moot Green over the Warboss Green, leaving some of the darker green visible around the edges. Mix Moot Green with a bit of white for the next layer, focusing on the central part of the lenses. Finish with a small dot of white in the center for the glowing effect. Black Areas: Paint any black parts like the bolter and the eyes. Shading Wash: Mix Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) with a bit of Contrast Medium and apply liberally over the model for shadows and depth. Use a clean brush to remove excess wash, especially in recesses. Highlights and Finishing Touches Red Armor: Revisit with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red, focusing on areas where light hits to enhance the red color. For chips and scratches, use Rhinox Hide with a fine brush, adding tiny dots and lines to simulate battle damage. Metallics: Re-highlight with Burnt Iron to restore the metallic sheen. Base Cover with PVA glue and sand. Once dry, apply a brown wash and let it dry. Apply Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand for a dusty, battle-worn look. Varnishing Finish with a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt for protection and a matte finish. Final Touches Detailing: Add any final details like highlighting edges or correcting overspills. Decals (Optional): If you have Blood Angels decals, apply them after the shading stage. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy with weathered NMM bronze effects, bandages, clothing, NMM Skull and Skin! Scroll town to explore the two video tutorials in order, or quick jump to specific techniques and materials you might need. Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with VerdigrisPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze MummyVideo Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and BasePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideBandagesSkull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)Clothing (Trousers/Pants)BeltSkinBase and Finishing Touches Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with Verdigris All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Needed Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Pure White Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy 1. Priming and Base Coating: Start with the model already primed in black. Apply Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) roughly on the armour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. The application at this stage can be quite loose and liberal. 2. Layering for Texture: Proceed with XV-88 (Games Workshop), this time being more careful and refined in your brushwork. Focus on creating a weathered texture, interpreting the previous layer’s marks as damage or wear. Use the very tip of the brush for finer lines and stippling. 3. Detailing with Lighter Tones: Use Balor Brown (Games Workshop) to further enhance the details. At this stage, focus on the edges, rivets, and any other raised details on the armour. Remember, the aim is to create a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the lower edges of dents or imperfections to create depth. 4. Highest Highlights: Introduce Ice Yellow (Vallejo) for the brightest parts of the armour. Apply it sparingly and only on the most raised areas to create the illusion of light reflecting off metal. Be cautious with this step to maintain a realistic metallic look. 5. Glazing for Depth: If needed, mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with water to create a glaze. Apply this over areas that are in shadow or need to be toned down. This step helps integrate the highlights and creates a more cohesive look. 6. Applying Verdigris: For the verdigris effect, use Sybarite Green and Gauss Blaster Green (both Games Workshop). Thin these paints down considerably. Apply them mainly in recessed areas, joints, and crevices where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Avoid covering the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen. Technique Tips: Work in layers, building up from dark to light to create depth and realism. Focus on where light naturally hits the model, creating highlights that follow the form and curvature of the armour. In the verdigris step, less is more. It’s easier to add more verdigris effect than to remove it, so start with a light application and build up as neede Video Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and Base All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Needed Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown Rhinox Hide XV-88 Balor Brown Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Death Korps Drab Hobgrot Hide (not recommended) Trollslayer Orange Paints (Vallejo): Ice Yellow Pure White Neutral Grey Brushes: Size 00 Artis Opus Brush (for detailed work) Size 2 Artis Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing) Other Materials: MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect) Step-by-Step Guide Bandages Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages. Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect. Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail. Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages. Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold) Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base. Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect. Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades. Clothing (Trousers/Pants) Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour. Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights. Belt Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour. Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick. Skin Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas. Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition. Base and Finishing Touches Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass. Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Freehand Skull on Castellan Knight

A video tutorial with step-by-step guide on how to freehand a skull on Castellan Knight legplate, with advanced shading and patterns. This guide will take you through painting a detailed skull freehand on the shin panel of a Castellan Knight miniature from Games Workshop. We’re focusing on creating a striking skull design amidst a vivid background, with a two-part process that lays the groundwork for intricate background details to be added later. The process begins with modifying the shin panel for a smooth painting surface, followed by base colouring, sketching, and detailing the skull. Video: Freehand Skull on Imperial Knight Part One Materials Needed Brushes: Size 1 Artis Opus Brush (used throughout the video for detailed work) Paints: Games Workshop (Citadel): Rhinox Hide: Base sketching of the skull Balor Brown: Refining skull details Ushabti Bone: Highlighting the skull Ceramite White: Final highlights on the skull Wild Rider Red: Used for airbrushing the background (mentioned as part of the orange base) Troll Slayer Orange: Part of the airbrushed background Mournfang Brown: Used in shadows and for airbrushing background details Privateer Press (P3): Battlefield Brown: Alternative to GW Scorched Brown, used for shading Vallejo: Model Colour Black: For defining eye sockets and other dark areas on the skull Other Materials: Airbrush: For applying the base layer of the shin panel Scalpel: For modifying the shin panel to create a smooth surface Fine Grit Sandpaper: For smoothing the modified shin area Wet Palette: To keep paints hydrated and workable Water Container: For rinsing brushes Paper Towels: For brush cleaning and paint dabbing Preparation Tools: Filling Material: To fill in gaps after modifying the shin panel for a smooth painting surface Step-by-Step Guide Preparing the Surface Modify the Shin Panel: Begin by carefully removing excess detail from the shin panel using a scalpel. Fill in any gaps to create a smooth surface for your freehand painting. Although minor dimples might remain, they will be covered by the paintwork. Base Colouring Airbrush Background: Apply an airbrushed base layer using Wildrider Orange, Troll Slayer Orange, and a touch of Mournfang Brown for shadows. This creates a vibrant orange backdrop, setting a stark contrast for the skull. Sketching the Skull Outline with Rhinox Hide: Start sketching the skull using Rhinox Hide, focusing on getting the overall shape rather than detailed features like eye sockets or teeth. This stage doesn’t require perfection in symmetry or detail, as adjustments can be made later. Refine with Balor Brown: With Balor Brown, begin refining the skull’s structure, particularly around the temples, nose, and eye sockets. This layer adds dimension and prepares for detailed work. Detailing the Skull Highlight with Ushabti Bone: Use Ushabti Bone to start bringing out the highlights of the skull. This step involves building up from the darkest shadows to the lightest areas, considering the light source will be from the top left. Deepen Shadows: Apply Vallejo Model Colour Black to define the eye sockets and other deep shadows within the skull, enhancing the contrast and depth. Add Texture and Fine Details: Continue with Balor Brown and Ushabti Bone, applying very light, fine strokes to create texture and detail across the skull’s surface. Focus on asymmetry and imperfections for a more realistic appearance. Final Highlights with Ceramite White: Use Ceramite White sparingly to add the brightest highlights, concentrating on areas that would catch the most light. This step dramatically increases the contrast and brings the skull to life. Starting the Background Pattern Outline Pattern with Black: Begin outlining the background pattern, starting with simple geometric shapes and lines to create a non-symmetrical, maze-like design. This base pattern sets the stage for further detailing. Apply Initial Highlights: Initially, experiment with Fire Dragon Bright for highlights but plan to integrate the skull’s colours (Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Ceramite White) into the background for consistency. Finishing Touches Adjust and Refine: As the background pattern develops, continuously adjust and refine the design. Incorporate shadows and highlights to create depth and interest, using P3 Battlefield Brown for shading. Merge Skull and Background: Begin to subtly blend elements of the skull into the background pattern, ensuring the entire piece feels cohesive. Video: Freehand Skull on Imperial Knight Part Two Where we focus on refining the maze-like background detail introduced in Part 1, enhancing the overall visual appeal and integrating the skull into the pattern for a cohesive look. Materials Required: Brushes: A fine detail brush, ideally size 0 or 1. Paints: Games Workshop’s Wild Rider Red, Rhinox Hide, Ceramite White, Zamersi Desert, Ushabti Bone, Firedragon Bright, Abaddon Black, and P3’s Battlefield Brown (or Baneblade Brown as a GW alternative). Other Supplies: A wet palette for mixing paints, water for thinning paints, and kitchen paper for brush cleaning. Step-by-Step Guide: Review and Refine the Existing Pattern: Begin by assessing the pattern laid out in Part 1. Identify areas that require refining or adjustments to ensure a unified appearance across the entire shin armour. Adjusting the Pattern: Use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Battlefield Brown to refine areas needing adjustments. This may involve smoothing transitions between different sections of the pattern or altering shapes to better integrate with the overall design. Focus particularly on areas around the white dots and sections that appeared overly bright or disjointed in Part 1. The aim is to create seamless transitions between the skull and the background pattern. Enhancing Contrast and Depth: Apply thin glazes of Rhinox Hide in areas needing more depth, helping to highlight details and make the pattern more intricate. Increase contrast by selectively brightening areas with Zamersi Desert, followed by Ushabti Bone and Ceramite White for the highest highlights. This step is crucial for giving the pattern a three-dimensional look. Blending the Skull into the Pattern: To integrate the skull into the background, extend pattern elements over the edges of the skull. Use a fine detail brush and steady hand to draw lines and shapes that flow from the skull into the surrounding areas, unifying them. Final Highlights and Touch-Ups: Add final highlights with Ceramite White to the highest points of the pattern, enhancing the illusion of depth and detail. Review the piece for any areas requiring further refinement or additional highlights before sealing your work. Glazing for Cohesion: Create a glaze with Firedragon Bright and water for a thin consistency. Apply this over the entire pattern, especially where transitions need softening or colours unifying. The glaze will blend highlights and shadows for a cohesive look. Finishing Touches: Once the glaze has dried, reassess the effect. If necessary, redefine any details with base colours that may have been softened too much by the glazing. Sealing the Work: After ensuring the paint is completely dry, apply a matte varnish to protect your work. This also helps unify the finish across different textures and layers. More Free Video Tutorials More free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Weathered Armour Plate and Freehand Text

Two videos on how to paint weathered armour plate, complete with rust, scratches and chips and a simple freehand banner. You won’t need an airbrush for this tutorial. Video: Part One – Armour and Weathering Materials and Paints Needed Games Workshop Paints: Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, White Brushes: Large dry brush (or makeup brush), fine detail brush, glazing brush (size 4 or similar) Accessories: Water for thinning paints, kitchen towel for wiping brushes, well palette Preparing the Model Clean and prime your Redemptor Dreadnought model. A light grey or white primer is recommended for bright colours like yellow. Base Coating with Stippling Technique Mix Balor Brown with water in a roughly 50/50 ratio. This will be your base layer. Stipple Balor Brown onto the armour panels using a large, round, flat brush. Aim for gentle touches to build up the texture without creating pronounced, three-dimensional brush marks. Allow the paint to dry fully before adding more layers. This creates a worn, battlefield-ready appearance. Glazing for Colour Depth Create glazes in your well palette by mixing Mournfang Brown and Yriel Yellow separately with water, using about 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint. Apply Mournfang Brown glaze to shade areas, starting from lighter areas and moving the brush towards darker regions. This adds warmth to the shadows. Apply Yriel Yellow glaze over the entire panel, focusing more paint towards the centre for a vibrant effect. Ensure to remove excess paint from your brush to avoid pooling. Chipping for Weathered Effect Use Rhinox Hide with a fine detail brush to create chipping along the edges of the armour panels where wear would naturally occur. Remember, less is more; avoid overdoing it with lines and crosses. Highlight the lower edge of each chip with Yriel Yellow to simulate the armour’s wear and tear, making the chips stand out more against the base layers. Detailing and Finishing Touches Rivets: Paint each rivet with a dot of Pale Grey Blue on the top left and a tiny line on the bottom right to simulate light reflection. Metal Exposure: Use Neutral Grey to paint areas where the metal beneath the yellow paint would show through, particularly around chips and edges. This technique helps redefine the model’s shape and adds dimensionality to the weathering. Final Highlights: Add a final touch by placing a small dot of White on the most prominent parts of the chips and rivets to enhance the reflective effect. Video: Part Two – Freehand Banner Materials and Paints Needed: Games Workshop Paints: Baneblade Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Balor Brown Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black Brushes: A smaller brush for initial sketching and detailing, and a larger brush for smoother finishes on larger sections. Other Supplies: Water for thinning paints, a palette for mixing, and kitchen towel for wiping off excess paint. Preparing the Banner: Base Layer with Morghast Bone: Begin by sketching the basic shape of the banner on the shoulder pad using Morghast Bone. This step involves creating the outline and filling in the banner. For larger sections, use a larger brush to achieve a smoother finish. Refining Edges: Use a smaller brush to refine the edges and the trailing ends of the banner. Aim for a shape that complements the space available on the shoulder pad, keeping in mind the overall design and avoiding overly stubby ends. Applying Shadow with Baneblade Brown and Rhinox Hide Mix: Mix approximately 50/50 Baneblade Brown and Rhinox Hide to create a shadow colour. Apply this mixture to add depth and shadow to the banner, especially along the edges and the banner’s folds. Highlight with Screaming Skull: To highlight the main body of the banner and give it a three-dimensional appearance, apply Screaming Skull, focusing on the central and raised areas. This step brings out the details and makes the banner stand out. Painting the Text: Sketching Text with Vallejo Model Colour Black: Using a fine detail brush and Vallejo Model Colour Black, begin sketching the text onto the banner. Start with basic shapes for letters and focus on spacing. The chosen word for this tutorial is “MORTIS.” Refining Letters: Once the basic spacing and shape are down, refine each letter for clarity and style. Adjust the thickness of the lines and add any stylistic flourishes to match the desired font. Consistency in line weight and style across all letters is crucial for readability. Correcting and Sharpening Edges: Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull to correct any overshoots or to sharpen the edges of the letters. This step allows for cleaner lines and more precise letter shapes. Final Touches: Weathering: To integrate the text and banner naturally with the rest of the model, apply weathering. Use Balor Brown to simulate chipped paint and wear on the banner and text. This step adds realism and character to the model. Applying Filters: A filter of heavily diluted Mournfang Brown and Yriel Yellow can be applied over the entire freehand work. This unifies the colours, softens the contrast, and gives the banner and text a worn look, blending them seamlessly with the model’s overall weathered appearance. More Free Video Tutorials More Free videos are available for for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Free Video Tutorial: Death Guard for the Horus Heresy

This video shows you how to paint a Death Guard marine for the Horus Heresy. This guide incorporates a mix of airbrushing and traditional painting techniques, ideal for achieving a weathered, battle-hardened look. Death Guard Horus Heresy – Video All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials Required: Death Guard Marine miniature, primed black Airbrush and Tamiya X20A thinner Paints: Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, Ionrach Skin, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Mortarion Grime (Shade), Vallejo’s Black, Burnt Iron Metal Colour, Pure White, and P3’s Iosen Green Brushes, including a large brush for applying washes and a fine detail brush Painting Steps: Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown using an airbrush, thinned with Tamiya X20A to ensure smooth application. If an airbrush is unavailable, a brown primer can be used as an alternative. Secondary Coat: Airbrush Ionrach Skin over the model. If the paint speckles, add more thinner to achieve a smooth finish. Focus on armour panels, allowing some brown to show in recesses for depth. Highlighting: Use Vallejo Pure White, thinned more heavily than the previous layers, to highlight areas such as the head, chest, and shoulder pads. Be selective, as the right shoulder pad will be painted green later. Metallic Parts: Paint all metal parts with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour. For better control and to prevent the paint from flowing into unwanted areas, let it thicken slightly in a palette before use. Black Areas: Use a black contrast paint to cover areas like the shoulder pad. This can be done with a large brush for speed and efficiency. A couple of coats may be needed for full coverage. Green Shoulder Pad: Airbrush Iosen Green onto the left shoulder pad, gradually adding Yriel Yellow to the mix for a bright front highlight, creating a transition from bright to dark. Shading: Saturate the model with Mortarion Grime shade using a large brush. Ensure an even coat and avoid pooling. The shade will naturally darken recesses and enhance details. Chipping Effect: Apply Rhinox Hide to simulate chips and wear on the armour. Focus on edges and surfaces that would naturally see wear and tear. This step adds realism to the model. Highlighting Chips: Using Vallejo Pure White, highlight the lower edges of the chips to create a three-dimensional effect. This step is particularly effective in making the chipping stand out. Weapon Details: Highlight the gun with Neutral Grey by Vallejo, focusing on upward-facing edges and adding scratches for realism. This adds contrast and depth to the weapon. Glowing Red Eyes: Start with Mephiston Red, followed by Troll Slayer Orange, and then highlight with Yriel Yellow. Finish with a small dot of Pure White in the centre for a glowing effect. Final Touches: Apply light highlights of Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour on metallic surfaces for extra sheen. Use Forge World Dark Sand weathering powder on the feet for a dusty look. Tips for Success: Ensure smooth transitions when airbrushing by adjusting paint consistency. Use the chipping technique to add character and age to the model. Focus on focal points like the head and chest for your brightest highlights. Experiment with the thickness of your paint for different effects; thicker paint can achieve sharper lines and highlights. Be mindful of the lore and aesthetic of the Death Guard when choosing colours, especially for details like the eye lenses. Remember, the goal is to create a visually striking model that embodies the rugged and corroded nature of the Death Guard. Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Legio Fureans Reaver

This video tutorial shows How to Paint a Legio Fureans Reaver (Tiger Eyes) from the Adeptus Titanicus game. I’ve done it as a gaming piece, but I’ll be doing a Warlord for a potential Golden Demon entry. All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints: Paints from Games Workshop (Yriel Yellow, Flash Gitz Yellow, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Magos Purple Contrast, Technical Stormshield, Corvus Black, Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide), Vallejo (Dark Sea Grey, German Grey, Black, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Chrome, Ice Yellow, White), and Scale 75 (Necro Gold). Oil Colours: Winsor and Newton’s Sansodor mineral spirit, Black, and Burnt Sienna. Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black. Airbrush: Infinity CR Plus, set at about 30-35 PSI. Additional Tools: Mixing cups, a selection of brushes and a magnifying headset. Step-by-Step Guide: Priming: Start with a base coat of black primer. Airbrushing the Carapace: Dilute Yriel Yellow with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Apply several coats for a solid finish. Optionally, start with a base of XV-88 for a quicker yellow hue. Add depth with Mournfang Brown in recessed areas. Reapply Yriel Yellow for a smooth blend. Highlight the edges with Flash Gitz Yellow. Mix a bit of Mournfang Brown with Yriel Yellow for a gentler transition. Trim Painting: Apply Necro Gold, thinned down to about a 50/50 mix with water. Add depth with a wash of Aggrex Earthshade. Detailing with Black Flames: Hand-paint black flames using Model Color Black. Start with simple S-curves, then refine. Applying Decals: Apply a gloss varnish, then the decals with microset. Seal with matt varnish after drying. Oil Weathering: Apply Burnt Sienna oil paint for realistic streaking effects. Scratches and Dents: Use Rhinox Hide for scratches, followed by Ice Yellow on the lower edges for a 3D effect. Highlighting and Shading Trim: Reapply Necro Gold, then blend with Vallejo Chrome for brighter highlights. Use Wild Wood contrast paint for shading. Main Structure Painting: Stipple on Burnt Iron metallic colour. Add depth with a Magos Purple wash, followed by a diluted Mournfang Brown wash. Painting the Head and Lenses: Start with a black base, then layer up highlights with German Grey and Dark Sea Grey. Glaze over with Corvus Black to tone down and blend highlights. Paint the lenses with Sotek Green and white highlights. Finishing Touches: Apply final weathering, varnishing, and any additional detailing as needed. Richard’s Pro Tips: Patience is key when airbrushing. Build up the layers gently for a more professional finish. Experiment with brush strokes and blending to achieve your desired effect. Each miniature is a canvas for creativity – don’t be afraid to add your own flair! Always thin your paints for smoother application and a more refined look. Take breaks! Detail work can be taxing on the eyes and hands. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Howling Banshee Triskele Weapon

This video shows how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee Triskele Weapon to a high level tabletop standard. The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon (the ‘triskele’ weapon) will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights. Materials Needed Cybrite Green (Games Workshop) Black (Vallejo Model Colour) Ice Yellow (Vallejo) Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop) Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop) Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop) Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white) A fine brush A wet palette Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM Base Layer: Firstly, coat the triskele weapon in black, creating a pristine base. Green Layering: Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the triskele weaponless exposed to light. Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions. Highlight Application: Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the triskele weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes. Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint. Texture via Stippling: With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity. Reflections Definition: Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts. Finalising Highlights: Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect. Gemstone Painting: For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection. For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights. Refinement and Adjustment: If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred. Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance on the triskele weapon. Explore more Non-Metallic Metal Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought

In this guide you will be shown how to paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in Imperial First colours from the new Horus Heresy boxed game. Many of you were asking for help painting a model in this style without using an airbrush or oils – so here he is! Video: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: Black, Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Colour Burnt Iron P3: Morrow White (Any White will do) Step by Step Guide: How to Paint a Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought Initial Preparation Begin with assembling the Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought. Keep arms and backpack separate for easier painting. Prime your Plastic Contemptor Dreadnought in black to set the stage for the upcoming colours. Base Coating with Mournfang Brown Start with Mournfang Brown, heavily diluted with water for a translucent effect. Using a large brush, apply the paint in a stippling motion. This technique creates a mottled, weathered look on the model. Multiple thin coats are needed, around three or four, to achieve the desired coverage. Creating Highlights Mix P3 Morrow White (or any available white paint) with Mournfang Brown. This mixture is used for creating highlights on the model. Apply with a smaller dry brush for more controlled and precise placement of highlights, especially on areas like the chest and upper stomach. Adding Layers and Textures Progress with the painting by layering and texturing the model. Focus on building up colours gradually. Use the stippling method to apply these layers, which enhances the weathered and battle-worn appearance. Incorporating Uriel Yellow Uriel Yellow, diluted in a similar fashion to Mournfang Brown, is used next. It’s important to keep the brush damp, not wet, to avoid the paint running. Apply in a dabbing motion, focusing on areas where light naturally falls. This stage is crucial for developing the yellow hue characteristic of the Imperial Fist. Glazing and Fine Details Move to glazing layers using Uriel Yellow. This involves a thinner consistency and focuses on the model’s focal points like the head and chest. Pay attention to edges and hard lines, using a fine brush for precise application. Weathering and Final Touches For weathering effects, employ Rhinox Hide for chipping and damage marks. Apply these strategically across the model to create a realistic battle-damaged effect. Focus on edges and areas likely to receive wear. Enhancing Eyes and Metal Details Sotek Green is used for the eyes, creating a layered effect with a transition from green-blue to pure white. For metal parts, use Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold and Copper, applying carefully due to their fluid nature. Applying Transfers and Final Varnishing After applying decals or transfers, coat them with gloss varnish to blend them seamlessly into the model. Use Micro Set for applying and setting the transfers. Base Details Finish by creating a cohesive base using Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Apply multiple layers, interspersed with matte varnish, to build up a textured, grimy effect that complements your Contemptor Dreadnought Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists

In this guide you will be shown how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists in Beakie armour, from the Horus Heresy. Video – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints Used Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand. Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral GreyWindsor and Newton oil paints: Burnt Siena, Black, Sansodor mineral spiritVallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust ManifoldP3: Morrow White (Any White will do). BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00. Step by Step Guide – How to Paint MKVI Imperial Fists Base Coating with Mournfang BrownBegin by airbrushing or hand painting Mournfang Brown onto the miniatures, creating a solid base for subsequent layers. Highlight Placement Lighten Mournfang Brown with a bit of white, applying it to areas of natural highlights like upward-facing surfaces. Applying Yriel Yellow Over the pre-shaded miniatures, apply thinned Yriel Yellow, bringing out the Imperial Fists’ iconic yellow. Detailing with Mephiston Red Use Mephiston Red for the sergeant’s red head stripe, distinguishing the squad leader. Eyes and Weapons Paint eyes and weapon details black, setting the stage for later detailing. Metallic Elements Apply Vallejo Metal Exhaust Manifold to metallic areas, focusing on weapon coils and armour studs. Gloss Varnishing for Decals Apply a coat of gloss varnish over the miniatures to smooth the surface for decal application. Decal Application Carefully apply Imperial Fist decals, using microset for proper adherence and fit. Oil Washes for Depth Create a wash with Burnt Sienna, Black, and Sansodor mineral spirit, enhancing depth and worn appearance. Matte Varnishing After the oil wash dries, apply a coat of matte varnish to seal previous layers and prepare for final detailing. Enhancing Yellow Highlights Revisit yellow areas with thinned-down Yriel Yellow, creating bright focal points. Eyes and Plasma Effect Create glowing effects with Sotek Green mixed with white, applying to eyes and plasma details. Weathering with Rhinox Hide Add a battle-worn effect using Rhinox Hide for scratches and chips across the armour. Final Touches Add highlights to the red plume, enhance yellow details, and complete any final touches. Base Decoration Decorate the base with sand, PVA glue, Agrax Earthshade, and weathering powder for a realistic ground effect. Final Sealing Seal the model with a final layer of matte varnish to protect your work. Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished the how to paint MKVI Imperial Fists tutorial, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank

This video and step by step guide shows you how to paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank, blending traditional brushwork with optional airbrush techniques, ensuring a deeply weathered, battle-hardened appearance. Whether you’re a seasoned painter or just starting, this tutorial should and leave you with a striking addition to your Death Guard army. Quick Jump to: Video: How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile TankPaints UsedStep-by-Step GuidePreparation and PrimingStippling the Base LayersBuilding LayersAirbrushing (Optional)Detailing and WeatheringChipping EffectLenses and Vision SlitsFinal Weathering Video: How to Paint a Death Guard Scorpius Missile Tank All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints Used Games Workshop: XV-88, Hobgrot Hide, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Athonian Camoshade Vallejo: Black, Ice Yellow, Burnt Iron Metal Colour P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green Step-by-Step Guide Preparation and Priming Model Assembly: Assemble the Scorpius missile tank but leave the missile pods and top unglued for ease of painting. Priming: Prime the model black. For an easier approach, consider starting with a brown primer. Stippling the Base Layers Stippling Technique: Use a large dry brush, like Artist Opus, to stipple on the paint. Start with a color like XV-88 from Games Workshop, diluted to about 50% with water. Application: Ensure the stippled paint reaches recesses but expect some natural variation in tone. Apply two coats for adequate coverage Building Layers Lightening the Base: Apply successive lighter shades of brown and bone colors (like Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone), each time covering a smaller area to create a natural, textured fade from dark to light. Focus on Raised Areas: With each lighter layer, focus more on the raised areas, leaving recesses darker for contrast. Airbrushing (Optional) Airbrush Use: If desired, use an airbrush for a smoother finish on the lower two-thirds of the tank. Start with a light brown and gradually transition to white for a clean look. Detailing and Weathering Contrast Shading: Use Darkoath Flesh contrast paint mixed with contrast medium for shading. Apply it carefully, focusing on recesses and high contrast areas. Metallic Parts: Paint all metal areas with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour and then apply Athonian Camoshade for shading. Chipping Effect Chipping Technique: Use Rhinox Hide to create chips and scratches, focusing on edges and surfaces where wear is likely. Highlighting Chips: For added depth, highlight the lower edges of each chip with a lighter color like P3 Morrow White. Lenses and Vision Slits Painting Lenses: Start with a base color like Iosen Green, then add layers of progressively lighter shades, focusing on creating a reflective effect. Vision Slits: Begin with Mephiston Red, followed by layers of Troll Slayer Orange and Yriel Yellow for a glowing effect. Final Weathering Streaking: Create streaks with a heavily diluted brown paint, using vertical strokes for a natural rain-streaked effect. Weathering Powder: Apply dark sand weathering powder mixed with matte varnish for a realistic, powdery finish on lower sections. More Tank Tutorials! Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel

This video shows you how to paint an Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel (Astra Militarium), which Games Workshop sent me as part of the new Army Box. Quick Jump to: Video Tutorial: How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel Paints Used Step by Step Guide – How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel Initial Setup Airbrushing the Base Coat Enhancing Highlights Weathering and Details Missile and OSL (Object Source Lighting) Final Touches and Highlights Metal Work and Final Weathering Video Tutorial: How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints Used Games Workshop: Daemonette Hide, Sotek Green, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green Vallejo: Black, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White, Iosen Green Step by Step Guide – How to Paint An Imperial Guard Armoured Sentinel Initial Setup Model Assembly: This Sentinel from the Imperial Guard Astra Militarum Army box can be built in various ways. Our focus is on the armored version with a plasma cannon and hunter-killer missile. The weapons aren’t glued for easier painting. Airbrushing the Base Coat Airbrush Settings: Use a 0.4 needle with PSI around 30. Thin ‘Daemonette Hide’ paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner. Application Technique: Aim for dramatic lighting with stronger opacity on the front cabin, top left, fading towards bottom right. Ensure smooth transitions, but don’t worry too much about perfection as weathering will cover minor flaws. Enhancing Highlights Mixing for Highlights: Gradually mix ‘Morrow White’ into the ‘Daemonette Hide’ mixture for highlighting, focusing on the dramatic light effect. Highlighting Method: Create a realistic lighting effect, brighter on the top left of each section. Weathering and Details Base Coating Metal Areas: Apply ‘Burnt Iron’ Vallejo metal color on metal parts and ‘Viking Gold’ from Scale 75 on decorations like aquilas. Weathering: Use ‘Mournfang Brown’ for rust-style weathering. Apply ‘Cyberite Green’ on gold areas for a Verdigris effect. Missile and OSL (Object Source Lighting) Missile Painting: Originally red, but later changed to black for better contrast with the OSL. OSL Technique: Start with ‘Mephiston Red’ for the plasma glow, then layer with ‘Troll Slayer Orange’ and ‘Yriel Yellow’ for intensity. Final Touches and Highlights Adding Details: Paint lenses using a progression from ‘Sotek Green’ mixed with white for a glowing effect. Armor Panel Highlights: Use the brightest highlight mix used earlier, focusing on the top left areas and incorporating into scratches for a realistic effect. Metal Work and Final Weathering Metallic Highlights: Reapply ‘Burnt Iron’ on metal parts for brighter edges. Final Weathering: Add rust effects with thinned down ‘Rhinox Hide’ and ‘Troll Slayer Orange’, focusing on edges and recesses. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray More of my latest videos: [...]

How to Paint Leviathan Dreadnought Imperial Fist

This free video shows the Plastic Leviathan Dreadnought from Games Workshop and shows how to paint it using Imperial Fist Contrast paint and oil paint. Video: How to Paint the Leviathan Dreadnought All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints Used: Airbrush with a 0.4 needle Paints from Games Workshop (GW), Vallejo, Winsor and Newton, and P3 Winsor and Newton Sansodoor mineral spirit Vallejo Mecha Varnish (Gloss and Matt) Abteilung 502 Desert and Sand Pigment set Micro Set for decals Various brushes, including a small dry brush and a size 2 brush Water jar and wet palette Paints: GW: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Rhinox Hide, Abaddon Black Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Dark Blue Pale, Exhaust Manifold, Chrome Winsor and Newton: Burnt Sienna (oil paint), Black P3: Morrow White Step by Step Guide to Painting the Leviathan Dreadnought 1. Base Coating: Start by airbrushing Mournfang Brown on all armor panels. Thin the paint with Tamiya X-20A thinner for better flow. Airbrush at around 30 PSI. 2. Adding Highlights: Mix some P3 Morrow White into the Mournfang Brown along with a bit more thinner. Airbrush areas you want to appear brighter. This will affect the final yellow hue after applying Imperial Fist contrast paint. Precision is key for this step. 3. Final Highlights: Use P3 Morrow White (thinned) for the last layer of highlights. Aim for a smooth application, although some speckling is tolerable as the contrast paint will cover minor imperfections. 4. Applying Contrast Paint: Apply Imperial Fist Contrast paint over the armor. This will tie in all the layers and give a vibrant yellow finish. 5. Painting Black Areas: Start with Abaddon Black, gradually adding small amounts of white and thinner for highlights. Focus on curved areas for a natural lighting effect. 6. Metallic Sections: Paint all metallic areas with Vallejo Metal Color Exhaust Manifold. Apply it directly without undercoating in black to save time. 7. Adding Decals and Chipping: Apply decals using Micro Set on gloss-varnished areas. Then, paint chipping using Rhinox Hide. Be mindful of the order; it’s easier to apply yellow glazes before adding decals and chipping. 8. Weathering with Oils: Use Burnt Sienna oil paint for streaking effects. Apply the paint in blobs and streak down using a brush dampened with mineral spirits. For pin washing, use a mix of Burnt Sienna and Black thinned with mineral spirits. Focus on recesses and rivets. 9. Painting the Head: Airbrush the head with Mephiston Red. Freehand a stripe using Vallejo Dark Blue Pale mixed with white. Highlight the red areas with Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red. 10. Eye Lenses: Paint the lenses with Sotek Green, followed by a mix of Sotek Green and white for highlights. 11. Glazing Yellow Highlights: Use a glaze of Yriel Yellow mixed with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part paint) for bright highlights on the top of shoulders and other upward-facing surfaces. 12. Highlighting Chips: Mix Yriel Yellow with white and highlight the lower edges of chips. This is time-consuming but adds depth. 13. Claw and Exhaust Weathering: Dry brush the claw using a mix of Vallejo Chrome and Exhaust Manifold. Focus on the blade edges. Apply the same mix to the exhaust sections. 14. Applying Weathering Powder: Use the Abteilung 502 Desert and Sand Pigment set for the base and lower parts of the Leviathan Dreadnought. 15. Sealing with Varnish: Finish by covering the entire model with Vallejo Mecha Matt Varnish for a uniform and protected finish on your Leviathan Dreadnought. More Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Unleashing the Power of Airbrushing: Painting the Iconoclast Titan

I’m excited to share my journey of painting the Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, a majestic model sent to me by Games Workshop. My focus is to highlight the crucial role of airbrushing in bringing this titan to life with the vibrant colours of the Legio Astorum, also known as the Warp Runners. Watch the Video The Importance of Airbrushing: Airbrushing is a game-changer in miniature painting, offering unparalleled smoothness and efficiency. It’s especially valuable when painting large models like the Iconoclast Titan, where traditional brushing might fall short. The fluidity of airbrush paints, like Vallejo’s Metal Color series, is perfect for both airbrushing and regular brushwork. The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black Initial Steps: Before diving into painting, it’s essential to prepare the model. I left off the armor plates of the titan to separately paint the skeleton with metallic colours and the armor panels with the distinctive Warp Runner scheme. Airbrushing Techniques: Base Coating: Starting with Vallejo’s Burnt Iron, I applied the base coat to the skeleton. Despite being formulated for airbrushing, its fluid nature worked well with a large, soft brush for a non-textured finish. Detailing with Copper: For the hips, I used Games Workshop’s metallic colour, applying it straight from the pot. This step required multiple thin coats for a consistent finish. Creating Verdigris Effects: I used oil paints to simulate the verdigris effect on the copper parts. Stippling the paint onto the model, I focused on crevices and rivets, where oxidation naturally occurs. Oil Washes: An overall wash of oil paints, mixed with spirits, added depth to the metallic parts. This technique requires patience, as it’s essential to allow the wash to dry completely, typically 24 hours. Highlighting with Chrome: Vallejo’s Chrome, another airbrush-focused paint, was used for highlights. Its liquid consistency demanded careful application to avoid flooding recessed areas. Colouring the Armor Panels: The real challenge and joy of airbrushing came alive while painting the armor panels. I started with Night Lords Blue, followed by Macragge Blue, both thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner. The process involved covering entire panels with the darker blue, then focusing on upper sections and curves for the lighter blue, creating a pleasing visual gradient. Stripe and Flame Patterns: For detailed patterns like stripes and flames, I relied on masking techniques and freehand painting. Tamiya tape helped in creating crisp, clean lines for stripes, while freehanding flames allowed for a more organic and fitting look on the armor panels. Applying Decals and Weathering: After the base colours and patterns, I applied decals for additional detailing. This step required a steady hand and patience, especially when dealing with folded decals. Weathering was achieved with oil paints, enhancing the realism of the titan. Final Touches: Matte varnishing the model brought all elements together, providing a uniform look and protecting the paint job. For the trim, I chose to paint it with Scale 75’s Necro Gold, followed by weathering and sealing with a matte varnish. Airbrushing the Iconoclast Titan was a rewarding experience, showcasing the versatility and efficiency of this painting method. The ability to layer colours, create gradients, and apply washes and weathering with ease made airbrushing an indispensable tool in my painting arsenal. Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or a beginner, incorporating airbrushing into your miniature painting can elevate your models to new heights. More Free Video Tutorials More free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint an Orange Blood Angel for Movember

This tutorial with video will guide you through how to paint an orange Blood Angel Space Marine with a unique orange twist to his armour. Painted as part of Movember for mental health awareness, this model also features a freehand moustache as a quirky homage to the cause. One of the key challenges of this project was working with Troll Slayer Orange—an infamously tricky paint—and blending it into the Blood Angels’ classic aesthetic, reminiscent of their older colour schemes. Video: How to Paint an Orange Blood Angel Paints Used Games Workshop Mephiston Red Rhinox Hide Balor Brown XV-88 Troll Slayer Orange Sotek Green Contrast Medium Contrast Dark Oath Flesh Vallejo Ice Yellow Black Neutral Grey Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold Game Colour Scarlet Blood Scale 75 Necro Gold P3 Morrow White AK 3rd Gen (Optional) Golden Brown Light Brown Step-By-Step – How to Paint an Orange Blood Angel 1. Basecoat with Mephiston Red Method: Begin by stippling Mephiston Red over a black-primed model using a small drybrush. This base layer ensures smoother transitions when applying the Troll Slayer Orange later, as orange paint is notoriously translucent over black. Consistency: Thin the Mephiston Red with a 50/50 mix of water and paint for better flow. Use a damp brush for stippling to achieve a consistent texture. Tips: Regularly clean and dry your brush to avoid flooding the model with excess paint. Use a smaller, chunky brush to fill in hard-to-reach areas to eliminate visible primer in the recesses. 2. Add Scarlet Blood for Vibrancy Paint: Vallejo Scarlet Blood Method: Stipple this matte red paint over the basecoat, focusing on areas that catch light, such as the chest, shoulder pads, and helmet. This adds richness to the tone while subtly transitioning towards orange. Placement: Apply with precision, keeping the brush perpendicular to the model to avoid drybrush streaks. Alternatives: Evil Sunz Scarlet can be used instead if you prefer GW paints, but Scarlet Blood offers excellent coverage and vibrancy. 3. Highlight with Troll Slayer Orange Paint: Troll Slayer Orange Method: Thin the orange paint (1:1 water to paint) and apply it to the raised areas in multiple thin layers. Its translucency works in your favour, blending naturally with the red beneath. Technique: Work around the model, allowing sections to dry before returning for additional layers. This prevents muddy transitions and creates a soft gradient. Pro Tip: For a less orange look, mix Scarlet Blood with small amounts of white or yellow to lighten highlights without veering too far into orange territory. 4. Shade with Contrast Dark Oath Flesh Paint: Contrast Dark Oath Flesh + Contrast Medium Method: Apply a diluted wash of Dark Oath Flesh over the entire model. This acts as a filter, unifying the tones, shading the recesses, and reducing the vibrancy of the orange. Consistency: Use Contrast Medium instead of water to maintain the wash’s properties. Check for pooling and wick away excess with a clean, damp brush. 5. Painting Details and Metallics Metallic Paints: Vallejo Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Scale 75 Necro Gold (or Viking Gold) Method: Pick out the trim, weapon details, and any embellishments. Silver: Use Vallejo Exhaust Manifold for weaponry. Gold: Apply Necro Gold on selected trims (e.g., shoulder pads). Highlight with a lighter gold for emphasis. Pro Tip: To create a weathered look, glaze Dark Oath Flesh over metallics for a patina effect. 6. Adding Glow to the Eyes Paints: Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and White Steps: Paint the eye lenses with Ice Yellow to create a bright base. Glaze over with Sotek Green to establish the colour. Highlight the centre of the lens with Ice Yellow and pure White for the brightest point. Add Object Source Lighting (OSL): Thin Sotek Green and lightly glaze the surrounding areas to simulate a glow effect. Tips: Focus OSL on areas in shadow for the most dramatic effect. If the surrounding armour is well-lit, the glow will appear less intense. 7. The Moustache As a nod to Movember, the model features a freehand moustache on its faceplate. Basecoat: Use Golden Brown for the initial design. Highlight: Build up with Ice Yellow for a metallic gold appearance. Symmetry: For best results, face the model head-on while painting and use short, confident brush strokes. Pro Tip: If you make a mistake, mix Rhinox Hide and Troll Slayer Orange to “erase” errors and blend corrections seamlessly. 8. Final Touches and Base Decals: Apply transfers with Micro Set to conform them to the armour, then stipple over with basecoat colours for a weathered look. New to Decals, or need some tips? Use this handy step by step guide and video! Watch Now Base: Keep it simple—sand painted with Agrax Earthshade, finished with a touch of weathering powder. This project was a fun challenge, blending unconventional colours into a Blood Angels scheme while supporting an important cause. Whether you tackle the freehand mustache or adapt the colour palette for your own chapter, the techniques here can add character and vibrancy to any Space Marine. If you want to support the Movember mental health campaign, check out the link below: https://movember.com/m/15175299 Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

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If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray