This video shows how to paint an Aeldari Howling Banshee Triskele Weapon to a high level tabletop standard.
The Aeldari Howling Banshee’s power weapon (the ‘triskele’ weapon) will have a non-metallic, yet luminous green effect. This method involves intricate layering and stippling to simulate reflection. We’ll primarily utilise Cybrite Green from Games Workshop, blended with various quantities of black for shadows, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for the highlights.
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Materials Needed
- Cybrite Green (Games Workshop)
- Black (Vallejo Model Colour)
- Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
- Evil Sunz Scarlet (Games Workshop)
- Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
- Fire Dragon Bright (Games Workshop)
- Morrow White (P3 or any alternative white)
- A fine brush
- A wet palette
Step-by-Step Tips and Guide – Green NMM
- Base Layer: Firstly, coat the triskele weapon in black, creating a pristine base.
- Green Layering:
- Blend Cybrite Green with a touch of black. Apply this darker green shade to parts of the triskele weaponless exposed to light.
- Incrementally integrate more black into the mixture for creating deeper shadows, ensuring smooth transitions.
- Highlight Application:
- Form lighter shades by mixing Cybrite Green with small increments of Ice Yellow. Gradually apply these on the triskele weapon’s raised and edge areas, depicting where light naturally strikes.
- Keep your paint mix slightly thinned for better control during layering. A recommended mix is two parts water to one part paint.
- Texture via Stippling:
- With the lighter green mixes, stipple the surface to generate a textured, reflective look. The density of the dots correlates with the opacity.
- Reflections Definition:
- Under a lamp, observe the natural light reflections on the blade. Mimic these on the blade’s upper portion using lighter green shades, ensuring they’re the most luminous parts.
- Finalising Highlights:
- Employ white or the palest green mix for the highest light points. Apply these sparingly as minute dots or slender lines to achieve a sparkling effect.
- Gemstone Painting:
- For red gems: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet, augment with highlights using Wild Rider Red and Fire Dragon Bright, mainly on the gems’ lower areas. Cap off with an Ice Yellow or white dot atop each gem for reflection.
- For the blue gem: Adopt a similar approach, starting with Sotek Green and progressively incorporating white for highlights.
- Refinement and Adjustment:
- If needed, use glazes (diluted paint) to soften transitions or reintroduce colour in areas where over-highlighting may have occurred.
- Continuously evaluate and tweak the intensity and positioning of highlights to achieve a balanced and realistic reflective appearance on the triskele weapon.
Explore more Non-Metallic Metal Tutorials
NMM
In this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf from the new Chaos Dwarf Blood Bowl box, provided by Games Workshop as an early review copy. We’ll be focusing on achieving a high tabletop standard, using a combination of classic paint colours and techniques to bring out the rich, detailed character of the model. Whether you’re painting for your next game or aiming for a display-worthy finish, this step-by-step guide will help you tackle everything from non-metallic metal gold to vibrant red armour, all while keeping the process efficient and enjoyable.
Video – How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf
Step-by-Step Guide
Materials Required:
Games Workshop Paints:
Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Bugman’s Glow, Night Lords Blue, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo Paints:
Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey
Two Thin Coats Paints:
Dark Sun YellowWhite Star
Brushes: Artis Opus Size 1 Brush, Artis Opus Size 00 Brush
Other Tools: Wet Palette, Lamp (for checking light placement), Water Jar
How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf
Step 1: Priming
Start by priming the model using Mephiston Red as the base coat. You can use an airbrush or a hand brush to apply it. This will form the base of the red armour and speed up the process.
Step 2: Painting the Beard
For the beard, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to base coat it.
Highlight the beard using Vallejo Neutral Grey. Apply this in parallel strokes to follow the sculpted lines of the beard.
Add some final highlights by mixing Neutral Grey with a bit of White Star and pick out raised areas.
Step 3: Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim
For the gold trim, begin with XV-88 as the base colour. This provides a solid foundation for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect.
Create your first highlight mix with Dark Sun Yellow. Layer this on top of the XV-88, leaving some of the base visible.
Gradually lighten the gold by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with White Star. Apply smaller, more precise highlights with each layer.
To give the gold a bit more warmth, you can glaze over areas with XV-88 or add subtle orange tints using Troll Slayer Orange in the shadowed areas.
Step 4: Painting the Red Armour
After the Mephiston Red base, layer on Evil Sunz Scarlet. Use a stippling or scratchy technique to give texture to the armour.
For shadowing, use Night Lords Blue in the recesses and shaded areas, being careful not to overwhelm the red.
If needed, go back with Evil Sunz Scarlet to reinforce the red and add brightness.
Step 5: Shading and Highlighting the Face
Wash the face with a thinned-down layer of Rhinox Hide (4 parts water, 1 part paint) to shade it and separate it from the rest of the armour.
Highlight the face using Bugman’s Glow, focusing on the raised areas like the nose, cheeks, and brow.
For brighter highlights, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow (or White Star if you don’t have Ice Yellow) to add subtle highlights to key areas like the cheekbones and nose bridge.
Step 6: Painting the Eyes
Paint the whites of the eyes using a light grey rather than pure white to keep it natural.
Use black to paint the pupil and iris in one go, as these are very small details that don’t require too much fine detail.
Step 7: Painting the Teeth and Horns
Base the teeth and horns with Morghast Bone. You can use the same colour for both areas to keep consistency.
Add highlights using White Star on the tips of the teeth and horns, carefully placing small dots or lines for a shine effect.
Step 8: Painting the Leather Areas
The gloves and boots can be painted with the same colours as the horns. Start with XV-88 for the base coat, then highlight with Morghast Bone, but don’t take the highlights up to white for these areas.
Step 9: Finishing Touches
Once the main areas are painted, go back and refine any details that need sharpening, such as the edges of the armour or the highlights on the face.
If the red armour starts looking too dark or the highlights become too muted, reapply Evil Sunz Scarlet in fine marks to bring the vibrancy back.
Step 10: Final Shading and Glazing
For a final touch, glaze over the non-metallic gold areas with a thin mix of XV-88 to enhance the richness of the colour.
You can add extra depth to the shadows by applying a thin wash of Night Lords Blue in the deepest recesses of the red armour.
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Unlock the secrets to painting Rogal Dorn’s iconic armour with this comprehensive guide on the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique. Learn how to master the art of simulating reflective gold without using metallic paints. This step-by-step guide, complete with tips and tricks, will walk you through every stage of the process, from priming and base layers to perfecting highlights and shadows. Whether you’re new to NMM or looking to refine your skills, this guide is your go-to resource for achieving stunning results.
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How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold
In this detailed video guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
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Why Use NMM Gold for to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour?
Rogal Dorn, the stalwart Primarch of the Imperial Fists, is renowned for his unyielding defence of the Imperium. His armour, adorned in resplendent gold, symbolizes not only his noble duty to protect humanity but also reflects the unbreakable spirit of the Imperial Fists. The gold represents his loyalty and the shining beacon of hope he stands for in the dark times of war. Painting his armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold captures this grandeur and allows you to highlight the brilliance and majesty of one of the Imperium’s greatest warriors!
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In this guide, we’ll walk through how to paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock with a grimy, non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. The focus will be on creating weathered steel armour and verdigris-weathered copper. You’ll learn to build up layers using stippling and dry brushing, while maintaining the gritty, battle-worn look typical of Skaven. This method is also ideal for quickly painting an entire army to a table-ready standard.
Video – How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock: Part One
Materials Needed:
Games Workshop Paints: Doombull Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow
Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
Brushes: Large and small dry brushes (Artis Opus recommended, or makeup brushes can suffice), size 0 brush, and others as needed
Step 1: Prime the Model
Begin by priming your assembled model with Abaddon Black,
Step 2: Base Layer with Mournfang Brown
Using a large dry brush, apply a base coat of Mournfang Brown using a stippling technique. Thin the paint by mixing it with water (about 50/50 ratio). Ensure the dry brush is damp but not wet to avoid texture buildup.
Stipple the paint all over the model, ensuring a smooth application with no unwanted texture. This will create a rough surface that adds depth to the dirty, grimy appearance of the armour.
Step 3: Add Neutral Grey Highlights
Switch to a smaller dry brush for more control, and apply Vallejo Neutral Grey. Again, thin the paint with water (50/50) and lightly stipple the paint over areas where you want the steel effect.
Focus on armour plates and metallic surfaces, building up a soft layer of grey over the brown to give it a worn metallic look. Let the initial layer of Mournfang Brown peek through to give the impression of rust and grime.
Step 4: Refine the Metallic Layers
Now, switch to your size 0 brush for more detailed work. Continue building highlights using Neutral Grey but add small amounts of Ice Yellow with each layer.
Increase the amount of Ice Yellow in each highlight as you progress, eventually reaching pure Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights. Add a final touch of white if you want to push the contrast further.
Be cautious not to overblend; the strength of this technique lies in the visible transitions between layers, adding texture and a rough, battle-worn appearance.
Step 5: Create Verdigris on Copper Sections
For the copper elements, begin with Doombull Brown as your base colour. Hold the model under a light to identify the highlight areas. Thin Doombull Brown and apply it to the copper parts of the model.
Mix Bugman’s Glow with Doombull Brown for the next layer, applying this mix to the raised areas of the copper.
Progressively add Ice Yellow to Bugman’s Glow for further highlights, working up to nearly pure Ice Yellow. If your copper starts looking too pale, glaze over with a watered-down layer of Doombull Brown to restore some warmth.
Step 6: Add Verdigris Weathering
To achieve a verdigris effect, mix Vallejo Ice Yellow and Warpstone Glow with water (about 3:1 ratio of water to paint). Apply this to recesses and areas where the copper would naturally oxidise.
Focus on the joints and edges of the copper parts. As the glaze dries, it will create a subtle verdigris patina, enhancing the aged look of the model.
Step 7: Apply Rusty Shadows and Dark Glazes
To deepen the shadows on the armour, mix Rhinox Hide with Abaddon Black, thinning it with water (4:1 water to paint). Use this glaze to darken recesses and areas where rust would gather, particularly around the joints and lower sections.
Glaze carefully to avoid losing the texture created by earlier stippling. Stay away from the brightest highlights to maintain the contrast.
Step 8: Add a Pop of Colour – Warpstone Glow Lens
For small details like lenses, start by applying Warpstone Glow to the lens, followed by a highlight of Moot Green. Finish with a small dot of Flash Gitz Yellow in the upper corner of the lens for a specular highlight.
Ensure the lens stands out from the grimy armour to give the model a bit of Skaven flare.
This stage of painting the Skaven Arch-Warlock gives you a quick and effective tabletop-ready look, perfect for gaming or as a base for further refinement. The grimy, weathered appearance suits the Skaven’s lore, while the stippling and dry brushing techniques create a realistic metallic effect without needing an airbrush.
In the next part, we’ll continue with other details such as the weapon, robe, and tail.
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Welcome to my guide on how to paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon from the Hive Secundus box set. This video tutorial along with step-by-step guide will help you achieve a high tabletop standard, with lots of the techniques interchangeable for your other models’ weapons, too!
Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Materials and Paints Needed
Paints
Games Workshop:
Incubi Darkness
Daemonette Hide
Abaddon Black
P3:
Morrow White
Vallejo:
Model Colour Black
Brushes
Artist Opus Size 1 brush
Artist Opus Size 00 brush
Other Tools
Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed)
Wet palette
Preparation
Weapon Removal:
If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier.
How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Base Colour
Incubi Darkness:
Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading.
Highlighting
Daemonette Hide:
Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light.
For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition.
For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth.
Blending Highlights
Incubi Darkness:
Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights.
For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish.
Edge Highlights
Daemonette Hide:
Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon.
Daemonette Hide and Morrow White:
Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features.
Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas.
Painting the Number ‘2’
Base Colour
Light Grey:
Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon.
If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish.
Detailing the Number
Vallejo Model Colour Black:
Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work.
If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges.
Additional Details
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections
Neutral Grey to White:
For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights.
Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish.
Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look.
Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Part Two
Materials and Paints Needed:
Paints:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Detail brush for fine lines and highlights
A larger brush for base coating
Additional Tools:
Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable
Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections
Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush.
Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)
Preparing the Base Colour
Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover.
Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish.
Building the NMM Gold Effect
Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal.
Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas.
Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition.
Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight.
Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal.
Adding Hazard Stripes
Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up.
Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out.
Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension.
Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition.
Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes.
Final Touches
Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes.
Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic.
Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place.
Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work.
By following these steps, you’ll have a beautifully painted Van Saar Heavy Weapon that stands out on the tabletop. Enjoy the process and take your time to achieve the best results!
More Van Saar Tutorials!
How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set
In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips!
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If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
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In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips!
Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus setPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set Base Colour ApplicationHighlightingDetailing with BlacksPainting the VisorEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponMaterials and Paints NeededPaintsBrushesOther ToolsPreparationStep by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponBase ColourHighlightingBlending HighlightsEdge HighlightsPainting the Number ‘2’Base ColourDetailing the NumberAdditional DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) SectionsVideo : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Materials and Paints Needed:Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Preparing the Base ColourBuilding the NMM Gold EffectAdding Hazard StripesFinal Touches
Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set
The techniques and steps covered should help you achieve a high-quality finish on the armour panels and visor.
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Dark Reaper, Sybarite Green, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Model Colour Black
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Size 1 Artis Opus
Size 0 Artis Opus
Additional Tools:
Wet palette
Lamp for lighting guidance
Step by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set
Base Colour Application
Base Colour: Start by applying Dark Reaper as the base colour. This colour should cover all the armour panels.
Tip: Use a wet palette to keep your paints fresh and to mix colours easily.
Highlighting
First Highlight Mix: Create a 50/50 mix of Dark Reaper and Sybarite Green.
Apply this mix to the raised areas of the armour, focusing on where the light naturally hits.
Paint towards the highlight points to ensure the finish is opaque and the colours are strong.
Second Highlight: Use pure Sybarite Green for the next layer.
Apply this in smaller areas within the previously highlighted sections.
For best results, use the lamp as a rough guide for light placement.
Final Highlight: Mix Sybarite Green with P3 Morrow White to achieve the final highlight colour.
Apply this sparingly to the highest points of the armour.
Ensure the transitions between layers are smooth. If necessary, go back with the darker mix to blend the steps.
Detailing with Blacks
Glazing Shadows: Use Abaddon Black to glaze shadows and enhance depth.
This paint is slightly satin and has less coverage, making it ideal for subtle shading.
Apply it to the chest panel and other large armour sections where you want the darkest areas.
Rubber Effect: For a stronger black mark, use Vallejo Model Colour Black.
This paint is more opaque and covers better, perfect for small details and corrections.
Painting the Visor
Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown to the visor as a base.
This will help establish a rich, warm undertone.
Highlighting the Visor: Use the following sequence for the visor highlights:
Mix Mournfang Brown with Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow (50/50) and apply.
Pure Dark Sun Yellow for the next layer.
Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White for the final highlight.
Adding Contrast: To enhance the visor’s shine, add a touch of Rhinox Hide to the upper highlight areas.
This creates a quick transition to a nearly white highlight for a shiny effect.
Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Use the highlight mixes to edge highlight the armour panels.
Keep the lines sharp and neat, cutting into them with the darker base colours if needed.
Blending: Go back and forth between the highlight and base colours to blend any visible transitions.
For small, detailed areas, use the tip of the brush and work slowly.
Additional Reflections: Add subtle reflections to the visor and armour panels for a more realistic effect.
Use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to darken areas as needed, enhancing the 3D effect.
Video: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Learn how to apply a smooth base coat using Incubi Darkness and create striking highlights with Daemonette Hide. We cover mastering blending techniques for seamless transitions and edge highlighting for sharp, clean details. Additionally, you’ll learn how to freehand the number ‘2’ for a personalised touch and paint non-metallic metal (NMM) sections for realistic metal effects.
Materials and Paints Needed
Paints
Games Workshop:
Incubi Darkness
Daemonette Hide
Abaddon Black
P3:
Morrow White
Vallejo:
Model Colour Black
Brushes
Artist Opus Size 1 brush
Artist Opus Size 00 brush
Other Tools
Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed)
Wet palette
Preparation
Weapon Removal:
If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier.
Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon
Base Colour
Incubi Darkness:
Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading.
Highlighting
Daemonette Hide:
Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light.
For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition.
For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth.
Blending Highlights
Incubi Darkness:
Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights.
For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish.
Edge Highlights
Daemonette Hide:
Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon.
Daemonette Hide and Morrow White:
Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features.
Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas.
Painting the Number ‘2’
Base Colour
Light Grey:
Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon.
If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish.
Detailing the Number
Vallejo Model Colour Black:
Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work.
If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges.
Additional Details
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections
Neutral Grey to White:
For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights.
Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish.
Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look.
Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)
Materials and Paints Needed:
Paints:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
Detail brush for fine lines and highlights
A larger brush for base coating
Additional Tools:
Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable
Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections
Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush.
Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)
Preparing the Base Colour
Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover.
Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish.
Building the NMM Gold Effect
Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal.
Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas.
Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition.
Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight.
Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal.
Adding Hazard Stripes
Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up.
Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out.
Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension.
Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition.
Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes.
Final Touches
Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes.
Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic.
Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place.
Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work.
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This is part 2 in a series for how to paint a Grey Seer from the Skaventide box that Games Workshop sent me. This video focuses on the metal sections of the staff, particularly the top symbol, and how to paint it in NMM and add verdigris.
Video: How to paint a Grey Seer – NMM and Verdigris
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green
Vallejo: Ice Yellow
Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow
Inverted Highlighting and Verdigris
We’ll start by finishing the verdigris around the runes on the dagger. This involves inverted highlighting, where the darkest areas are actually the lightest. The mix for this is Sybarite Green and Sotek Green, with a touch of white added for the highlight layer. Remember this mix, as we’ll use it later on the staff and symbol.
How to paint a Grey Seer Staff
Base Colours:
If you airbrushed the model with brown, you can use XV-88 as your starting point for highlights.
For areas not covered by XV-88, use Mournfang Brown to blend the edges.
Remember, the goal is a scratched, rough metal look, not a perfectly smooth finish.
Highlighting:
Start by mixing XV-88 with Dark Sun Yellow and apply it to the curves of the staff, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit.
Gradually add more Dark Sun Yellow to your mix for subsequent highlights, building up the brightness.
For the final highlights, use pure Dark Sun Yellow or Ice Yellow mixed with Dark Sun Yellow.
Remember to paint the entire staff, including the back and sides, but focus the brightest highlights on the front.
Adding Depth and Contrast:
Use Rhinox Hide to darken areas and create contrast.
Thin the Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for smoother blending.
Don’t worry about being too precise with the scratches; they’ll add to the overall texture.
Painting the Symbol
Flat Surfaces:
Painting NMM on flat surfaces can be tricky, but focus on edge highlights and texture.
Use the same colors and techniques as for the staff, but pay attention to the light source and where the brightest highlights should be.
Leave the sides of the symbol dark to enhance contrast.
Verdigris:
Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (50/50) and heavily water it down (70% water, 30% paint).
Apply the verdigris to the recesses and darker areas of the symbol.
Remember, this is for visual effect, not realism, so focus on what looks best.
Additional Tips for How to Paint a Grey Seer
Use a size 1 Artist Opus brush for the scratchy marks.
Don’t worry about perfect transitions; the scratches will help blend the colours.
Consider the overall lighting of your model and adjust highlight placement accordingly.
For a more desaturated gold, add more white to your Dark Sun Yellow mixes.
More videos on how to paint a Grey Seer!
How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer
My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer!
Watch Now
How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer
In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting
Watch Now
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This step-by-step guide provides a comprehensive overview of the process for how to paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel. By following these steps, you can achieve a stunning NMM (non-metallic metal) finish which you can use on your Abraxia, or anything that has this distinctive curved armour or carapace shape!
Video: How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel
Materials
Games Workshop paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Abaddon Black, Sons of Horus Green, Barak-Nar Burgundy
Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Heavy Grey
Two Thin Coats paint: Dark Sun Yellow
P3 paint: Morrow White
Various Artist Opus brushes, including size 1 and size 2
Steps to Follow
Step 1: Block in the Colours
Begin by roughly blocking in the colours on the entire model using a size 1 brush. This helps to establish the overall colour scheme and provides a base for the highlights.
Use Neutral Grey for the armour plates and XV-88 for the gold trim.
Apply Sons of Horus Green and Barak-Nar Burgundy to the skin areas.
Step 2: Refine the Armour Plates
Choose an armour panel to focus on and begin refining the NMM effect.
Start with Neutral Grey and gradually add Ice Yellow to create a series of increasingly lighter highlights.
Use a variety of brush strokes to create texture and variation in the reflections, ensuring a “micro texture” that is smooth and detailed.
Consider the overall lighting of the model and place the highlights accordingly.
Glaze with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to add depth and warmth to the shadows.
Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights, creating smooth transitions and a bright, opaque finish.
Step 3: Add Weathering and Details
Use a smaller brush to add scratches, dents, and other details to the armour plates, turning the marks from the initial blocking in into realistic battle damage.
Vary the colours of the weathering based on the surrounding area, using darker greys or black in shadowed areas and lighter greys or white in highlighted areas.
Glaze with white to create a smooth, opaque finish on the brightest highlights, enhancing the illusion of reflected light.
Step 4: Repeat for Additional Panels
Repeat the process for the remaining armour panels, adjusting the placement and intensity of the highlights to match the overall lighting scheme.
Remember that the highlights should become smaller and darker as you move away from the main focal point of the model.
Additional Tips:
Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours and techniques.
Consider the overall composition of the model and how the different elements will interact with each other – what will be on your base? Who will be around it? Colours will reflect off these objects onto the shiny armour.
Building your Abraxia
How to Build Abraxia, With Tips!
This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc.
Watch Now
Read PDF Guide
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This how to paint a Red Techmarine NMM Axe guide aims to help you achieve a realistic non-metallic metal effect on your Techmarine’s axe, with a focus on contrast, texture, and light reflection.
For all of the videos on how to paint a Red Techmarine, follow the link below, or scroll down here for just the axe guide!
Red Techmarine
A series for how to paint a Primaris Techmarine by Games Workshop.
Watch Now
Video: How to Paint a Red Techmarine – NMM Axe
This guide aims to help you achieve a realistic non-metallic metal effect on your Techmarine’s axe, with a focus on contrast, texture, and light reflection.
Materials Needed:
Fine detail brushes for precise application. (I use the Artis Opus range, but any decent quality brush works!)
A wet palette to keep your paints hydrated.
Vallejo and Games Workshop paints: Doombull Brown, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, XV-88, Ice Yellow, Pale Grey Blue, and P3 Morrow White (or any white).
Preparing the NMM Axe:
Metal Pole: Begin by painting the metal pole using the same NMM techniques detailed in the previous video. This ensures consistency across metallic elements of the miniature.
Painting the Circular Detail on the NMM Axe:
Base Colour: Start with the darker brown (Doombull Brown), applying it as the base for the small circular detail on the pole. This connects the colour scheme with the axe head, adding warmth and interest.
Highlighting: Gradually build up the highlights transitioning from dark (Doombull Brown) to light (XV-88 to Ice Yellow) from the top to the bottom of the circular detail. Finish with a thin edge highlight at the top for definition.
Painting the NMM Axe Blade:
Vertical Lines: Initially, paint vertical lines across the blade with a mixture of 50:50 water to paint. This underlayer softens the stark contrast between subsequent horizontal lines and the dark primer.
Adding Texture: Apply horizontal lines over the vertical ones to create a cross-hatching effect. This technique adds texture and subtlety to the blade, avoiding harsh contrasts.
Defining Highlights: Focus on creating a diagonal highlight across the axe head, marking the primary light reflection. This line should be brighter at the top edge of the blade, tapering and becoming more subtle as it crosses the blade.
Building Up the Blade’s Texture:
Further Highlights: Use Mournfang Brown to add more texture and depth, emphasizing the top of the blade where the light is strongest. The aim is to make the top appear lighter than the bottom, enhancing the NMM effect.
Ice Yellow Highlights: Progress to Ice Yellow for the highest highlights, concentrating on areas that would catch the most light. Ensure these lines are fine and precise to maintain the textured look.
Detailing the Axe Head:
Base Texturing: With Mournfang Brown, create scribbly, textured marks on the flat of the axe head, focusing on creating a light to dark modulation from one edge to the other.
Enhancing Texture: Progress through Balor Brown and XV-88, adding finer, more controlled highlights to build up the texture. These should be more focused and less extensive than the base texture, adding depth and interest to the surface.
Final Highlights: Use Ice Yellow and Pale Grey Blue for the final highlights, paying particular attention to areas like the skull and the circle on the axe head. These colours should only be applied to the blade for differentiation, so don’t go too crazy with them, adding a cool tone to contrast with the warmer body of the axe head.
Finishing Touches:
Neatening Edges: Go back and tidy up any overspill or overly broad lines with the base colours, ensuring the texture remains coherent and the contrasts sharp.
Evaluation: Step back and review the entire piece, making any necessary adjustments to ensure the NMM effect is convincing and the textures and contrasts work together harmoniously.
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This video shows how to paint Dante’s axe NMM. This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result!
Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM
Materials and Paints Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Baharroth Blue
Rhinox Hide
Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Paints:
Ice Yellow
Neutral Grey
German Grey
Kimera Colours Paint:
Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange)
Materials
Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe.
Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine
Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe.
Step 1: Preparing the Axe
Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide.
Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights.
Step 2: Base Painting
Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer.
Base Colours:
For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo).
For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom.
Step 3: Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom.
Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom.
Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection.
Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality.
Step 4: Refining the Metallic Look
Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade.
Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas.
Step 5: Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look.
Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights.
Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights.
Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact.
Now, you’re all set to bring Dante’s axe to life with a stunning NMM effect that mimics the intricate play of light on metal surfaces! While you are here, check out more NMM tutorials to try.
More NMM Tutorials
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A series looking at how to paint Commander Dante, which was sent to me for early review purposes by Games Workshop. The model is being painted to a high standard and will be covered in large amounts of NMM (Non Metallic Metal)
Quick Jump To:
Materials and Paints Needed for the NMMVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part OneVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part TwoVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part ThreeSteps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMMBase LayerDeveloping Mid-TonesRefining HighlightsEnhancing BrightnessDeepening ShadowsFinal Highlights and Sharp DetailsGlazing and SmoothingClean UpTips for Success:Video – NMM Axe (First Version)Materials NeededStepsTipsVideo – NMM Axe (Second Version)Materials and Paints UsedPreparing the AxeBase PaintingSky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueRefining the Metallic LookEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo – Head, Eyes, Blood GemMaterials and Paints Needed:Steps for Commander Dantes Head and DetailsVideo – Red Shoulder NMMPaints NeededStepsTips
Materials and Paints Needed for the NMM
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for precise work on NMM effects.
Black Primer: To create a solid base for your colours.
Palette: For mixing your paints and achieving the right consistency.
Paints:
Base and Mid-Tones: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown (Games Workshop)
Highlights: Ice Yellow (Vallejo; you can substitute with Dorn Yellow from GW), Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow (Games Workshop)
Shadows and Deep Recesses: Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Final Highlights and Sharp Details: Morrow White (P3; any high-quality white paint will suffice)
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Two
Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Three
Steps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMM
Base Layer
Paint: Mournfang BrownApplication: Apply Mournfang Brown as a base layer over the areas you intend to paint gold. This forms a foundational layer that aids in building depth.
Developing Mid-Tones
Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownApplication: Begin layering XV-88 over the Mournfang Brown base, focusing on raised areas. Then, use Balor Brown to start defining the mid-tones, enhancing the dimensional appearance.
Refining Highlights
Paints: Mix of Balor Brown and Ice YellowApplication: Create a lighter shade by mixing Balor Brown with a small amount of Ice Yellow. Apply this mixture to the highest points of the highlighted areas, where light naturally catches more intensely.
Enhancing Brightness
Paints: Ice Yellow, Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz YellowApplication: Gradually add brighter highlights using these colours. Focus on areas where light would hit the strongest, such as edges and prominent features.
Deepening Shadows
Paint: Rhinox HideApplication: Use Rhinox Hide to deepen the shadows and add contrast. Apply it in recessed areas and where different parts of the model meet, to give more definition and depth.
Final Highlights and Sharp Details
Paint: Morrow WhiteApplication: Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights and sharp details, accentuating the most raised edges where the light would be most intense.
Glazing and Smoothing
Technique: GlazingApplication: If necessary, use glazing with the lighter colours to smooth out transitions between highlights and mid-tones, ensuring a more natural progression of colour.
Clean Up
Action: Tidy any overspill or mistakes with appropriate base colours. This step is crucial for a neat and professional finish.
Tips for Success:
Consistency is Key: Maintain the right paint consistency. For NMM, a slightly thicker mix can be preferable for vibrant colours, but it should still flow smoothly.Consider Lighting: Always consider the overall lighting and direction of your model. Your highlights should consistently reflect this light source.Brush Care: Look after your brushes. Use a separate brush for mixing paints to maintain the fine tips of your detail brushes.Patience Pays Off: Allow each layer to dry thoroughly before proceeding to the next. NMM is a technique that benefits greatly from patience and careful layering.
Video – NMM Axe (First Version)
Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps
Initial Blocking In:
Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM.
Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes.
Lightening the Blue-Green Mix:
Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle.
Painting the Upper and Lower Sections:
Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights.
For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide.
Creating Specular Highlights:
Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges.
Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM.
Adding Lightning Effect:
Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects.
Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe.
Glazing and Smoothing:
Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights.
Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment.
Final Touches:
Refine the edges and any rough areas.
If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism.
Tips
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints.
Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes.
Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement.
Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next.
Video – NMM Axe (Second Version)
This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result! You can use whichever you prefer.
Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM (V2)
Materials and Paints Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Baharroth Blue
Rhinox Hide
Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Paints:
Ice Yellow
Neutral Grey
German Grey
Kimera Colours Paint:
Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange)
Materials
Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe.
Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine
Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe.
Preparing the Axe
Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide.
Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights.
Base Painting
Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer.
Base Colours:
For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo).
For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom.
Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique
Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom.
Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom.
Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection.
Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality.
Refining the Metallic Look
Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade.
Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas.
Edge Highlights and Final Touches
Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look.
Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights.
Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights.
Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact.
Video – Head, Eyes, Blood Gem
Materials and Paints Needed:
Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems.
Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas.
Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints.
For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop)
Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3)
Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Details
Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue.
Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance.
Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look.
Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold.
Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left.
Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection.
Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature.
Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look.
Video – Red Shoulder NMM
Paints Needed
Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black
Steps
Base and Mapping:
Start with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black to map out where the shiny parts will be.
Apply this mix to create the initial shape of the reflection on the shoulder pad.
Building Layers:
Use gradually lighter mixes of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet, adding Ice Yellow for the lighter tones.
Focus on smooth layering to build up the red tones, paying attention to how light naturally reflects on a curved surface.
Defining the Shine:
For the brightest shine spot, use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Ice Yellow from Games Workshop.
Apply these colours carefully to create a realistic reflection effect.
Painting the Gold Trim:
Start with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide for darker areas.
Progressively mix in Trollslayer Orange and Ice Yellow for brighter sections.
Ensure a smooth transition between the red of the shoulder pad and the gold trim to maintain a cohesive look.
Adding Additional Reflections:
Insert additional shine spots in both the red and gold areas for more depth and realism.
Use stippling techniques to create a diffused yet shiny highlight on the brightest parts.
Be mindful of the shape and direction of these additional reflections to maintain consistency with the light source.
Final Touches:
Use a mix of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for the final glazes to enhance the vibrancy of the red.
Add final highlights with the lightest mix of Ice Yellow and white for the brightest points.
Refinement:
Go back and refine any areas as needed, especially the transitions between highlights and shadows.
Add intricate details such as reflected light on the gold trim to enhance the NMM effect.
Tips
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint-to-water ratio to around 60% water for smoother application and finish.
Reflection Logic: Consider the shape of the shoulder pad and how light interacts with it. Use a lamp to guide your reflection placement.
Edge Highlights: Be careful with edge highlights; ensure they are consistent with the overall light reflection and texture of the surface.
Patience and Layers: Build up the layers gradually for a smooth transition. This is crucial for achieving a realistic NMM effect.
Stippling Technique: Use stippling in the brightest areas to create a diffused highlight, adding depth and realism.
Harmonizing Colours: Ensure the reds and golds complement each other, keeping the overall look cohesive.
Reflective Details: Consider adding subtle reflective details in surrounding areas, like reflected red light on nearby silver parts, to enhance realism.
Rest and Review: Sometimes stepping away from the model and returning with fresh eyes can help spot areas needing refinement or a different approach.
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This video shows how to paint the Cities of Death Arch Knight from the Freeguild Command Corps. The colours are selected to achieve an aquatic feel to match the style of the armour and are painted using NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) The set was sent to me for review by Games Workshop.
How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Sotek Green Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Heavy Blackgreen P3: Morrow White
Top Tips on How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight
Choosing the Axe: If you prefer the look of the axe over the hammer, go for it. The lack of specific details on the axe allows for creative freedom in painting a fancy cutting blade.
Colour Scheme: Opt for a green, blue, and turquoise colour scheme to complement the fish theme. Use paints like Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and Vallejo Heavy Blackgreen for reflections.
Mapping Highlights with Vallejo Neutral Grey: Begin by mapping out highlight points using Vallejo Neutral Grey. This will serve as a base for the non-metallic metal style.
Blocking In: Use a larger brush initially, like a size 3, for quick blocking of colours. This helps cover large areas efficiently, but be aware it may result in a more translucent finish.
Layering Colours for Non-Metallic Effect: Layer Sotek Green mixed with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for the non-metallic effect. Adjust the mix for a gradual transition and blend as needed.
Reflective Surfaces and Angles: Consider the angles and reflective surfaces carefully. Downward-facing parts should reflect the chosen colours, but keep in mind the realism of the light source and its impact on reflections.
Focus on Head, Chest, and Shoulder Area: Concentrate on painting the head, chest, and shoulder areas. This not only emphasises the most interesting parts of the model but also guides the viewer’s attention.
Highlighting Techniques: Use careful brush marks for highlights, especially on intricate shapes like the fish helmet. Sharp, harsh brush marks can create a textured and reflective surface.
Balancing Reflections and Colours: Strike a balance between the upward-facing and downward-facing reflections. Consider the colour wheel for harmonious combinations, avoiding overly contrasting colours.
Refining and Detailing: The refining phase is crucial. Continuously refine and add details to elevate the model’s overall finish. This process can take the model from a basic finish to a Golden Demon standard with dedication.
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Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version!
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads
Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger
Preparation:
Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set.
Prime the model with black primer.
Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!)
Helmet Painting:
Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet.
Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls.
Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering.
Metal Painting:
Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects.
Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone.
Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture.
Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas.
Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections.
Leather Parts:
Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide.
Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint.
Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look.
Highlighting:
Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks.
For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference.
Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast.
For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core.
Skin Painting:
Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown.
Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white.
Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather.
Final Details:
Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look.
Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect.
Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect.
Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions.
Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting!
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This full video shows how to paint an Alchemite Warforger from the Cites of Sigmar, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.This guide will cover various techniques such as non-metallic metal effects (NMM), leather texture, and object source lighting (OSL).
How to paint an Alchemite Warforger Video
You’ll Need:
Alchemite Warforger.
A range of brushes (including a size 3 Artist Opus M brush).
Paints from Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone.
Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral Grey.
P3 paint: Morrow White.
Mininatur Spring Moss Pads for basing.
Let’s Get Started:
Base Coating: Initiate with a base layer of XV-88. This creates an ideal foundation for both gold and bronze non-metallic metal (NMM) effects. Apply these base colours in a relaxed manner; perfection isn’t the goal at this stage.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Bronze/Gold: Use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and a touch of Rhinox Hide. Mix these colours in various ratios to achieve the desired NMM effect.
Leather Textures: For the leather apron and straps, start with a base of Rhinox Hide. Then, build up the texture and highlights with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone, adding Morghast Bone for the lighter areas.
Skin Tones: Begin with Mournfang Brown as the base for the skin. Gradually layer up the skin tones using a mix of Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone, finishing with lighter highlights.
Object Source Lighting (OSL): For the glowing effects, such as the pot’s contents, start with Mephiston Red and build up to Yriel Yellow and Wild Rider Red for the intense glow.
Detailing: Use Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide for the cooler tones, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow and Neutral Grey for the metallic areas. German Grey can be used for darker shadows.
Finishing Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest highlights and final touches. The base can be detailed with Mininatur Spring Moss Pads to add a natural touch.
Remember, painting is about building up layers and textures, so take your time and enjoy the process. Each layer adds depth and character to your Alchemite Warforger.
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This video looks more at the head of Commander Dante and shows his Eyes, and Blood Drop as well as more NMM Gold of the face. Commander Dante is being painted as a Golden Demon entry.
Video Tutorial: Commander Dante Head and Details
Materials and Paints Needed:
Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems.
Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas.
Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints.
Paints:
For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop)
Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo)
Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop)
Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3)
Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop)
Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Detail:
Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue.
Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance.
Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look.
Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold.
Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left.
Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection.
Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature.
Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look.
Continue Painting Commander Dante!
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This video shows how to paint the Dante’s axe using NMM or SENMM (Sky Earth Non Metallic Metal.) The video also covers some of the challenges of painting in hot weather!
Materials Needed:
Paints:
Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Brushes:
A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details
Palette: For mixing colours
Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes
Steps:
Initial Blocking In:
Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM.
Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes.
Lightening the Blue-Green Mix:
Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle.
Painting the Upper and Lower Sections:
Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights.
For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide.
Creating Specular Highlights:
Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges.
Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM.
Adding Lightning Effect:
Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects.
Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe.
Glazing and Smoothing:
Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights.
Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment.
Final Touches:
Refine the edges and any rough areas.
If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism.
Tips:
Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints.
Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes.
Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement.
Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next.
Now, you’re all set to bring Dante’s axe to life with a stunning NMM effect that mimics the intricate play of light on metal surfaces!
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How to Paint a Vampire Lord from the Soulblight Gravelord Armies! This includes NMM shiny steel armour, face and hair, skeleton base tutorial plus a dripping gore-covered mace! Read on to watch the comprehensive set of How to Paint a Vampire Lord tutorials plus key steps, paints and materials guide.
Quick Jump to:
Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel ArmourPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ArmourVideo – How to Paint a Vampire NMM ShieldPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ShieldVideo – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added GorePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory MaceVideo – Vampire Lord Face and HairPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and HairVideo – Skeleton Base Part OnePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton BaseBuilding the BasePainting the BaseFinishing TouchesVideo – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)Paints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton BasePainting the SkeletonPainting the SwordPainting the ClothAdding VegetationVideo – Simple Freehand DragonPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon
Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Paints and Materials
Paints:
Vallejo Neutral Grey: Used for mapping out highlights and base tones on the armour.
Vallejo Ice Yellow: Applied for initial highlights, gives a warm, off-white effect.
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown: Used sparingly for adding depth and richness in transitions.
Games Workshop Abaddon Black: Thinned down and used for glazing to deepen shadows and smooth transitions.
P3 Morrow White: For final bright highlights. Thinned down considerably for a subtle effect.
Brushes:
Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and for the stippling technique. I used the Artis Opus range, but any high-quality fine brush will work.
Glazing Brushes: Preferably also with a fine tip, used for applying thinned down glazes of Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black.
Primer:
Ultimate Primer (Black): Used for priming the model before painting.
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Armour
Preparation: Assemble the model but avoid gluing areas like the shield or head that might obstruct painting. Prime the model in black. For this, Ultimate Primer is a good choice.
Base Layer: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey to map out highlight points on the armour. This colour is ideal for desaturated, steel-like effects.
Light Direction and Armour Detailing: Consider the light source and how it hits the model. Focus on areas like the hip covers and rib cage, and map out light and reflections. The Neutral Grey will be useful for creating the base tones.
Initial Highlights: Apply Vallejo Ice Yellow for the highlights. Despite its name, Ice Yellow will give a desaturated, warm white appearance, especially when applied thinly. This is perfect for adding a subtle warmth to the steel.
Refining the Highlights: Use a stippling technique with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, building up the texture and refining the highlights. Remember, this is a gradual process, and patience is key.
Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown: Introduce Games Workshop Mournfang Brown sparingly at transition edges or darker areas for a richer tone. Be cautious not to overdo it, as too much brown can detract from the steel effect.
Glazing for Smoothness: Thin down Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black with water (about 5-6 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply them as glazes. This step will help in smoothing out transitions and adding depth.
Final Highlights with Morrow White: Use P3 Morrow White for final bright highlights. Ensure the white is thinned down and apply it very carefully to the highest points of the armour.Adjusting and Blending: Keep adjusting the highlights and shadows, blending the colours where necessary. This might involve going back and forth between the different shades to achieve a smooth transition.Finish and Review: Once satisfied, review the model under different lighting to ensure the non-metallic metal effect is consistent and realistic.
Throughout this process, keep your paint thin and apply multiple layers for the best results. The key to NMM is patience and gradual building of layers. Remember, each step contributes to the overall metallic effect, so take your time and enjoy the process!
Video – How to Paint a Vampire NMM Shield
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Mephiston Red, Balor BrownVallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice YellowP3: Morrow White
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Shield
Priming and Preparation: The shield should be primed black. The use of Ultramar Varnish is optional.
Base Layering: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey, using scribbly strokes to create a rough and scratchy base.Add a darker grey mixture by blending Neutral Grey with Abaddon Black. This can be substituted with other dark greys like Vallejo German Grey.
Creating Texture: Continue with Neutral Grey, making irregular, scratchy marks. These marks will contribute to a subtle textured look.Focus on building up layers and refining the texture.
Highlighting:Apply a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for initial highlights.Move to Ice Yellow, applying it thinly (1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to avoid a chalky finish.Apply the Ice Yellow in a stippling manner to refine the highlights and cover uneven areas.Painting the Dragon:Base the dragon with Mephiston Red.Create shadows by adding a small amount of Abaddon Black to Mephiston Red.For highlights, mix Mephiston Red with P3 Morrow White (or another white) and apply to raised areas and facets of the dragonGlazing and Refining: Use a heavily diluted mixture of Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, and P3 Morrow White for glazing.Apply the Mournfang Brown for a soft yellow-brown hue in certain areas.Use Abaddon Black to darken and dull areas and to create shadows.Use P3 Morrow White to soften and blend the highlighted areas.
Adding Scratches and Imperfections:Add random scratch-like marks using a very light application for realism.Apply small white dots to suggest nicks and imperfections.
Final Highlights and Adjustments:Go over the shield and dragon, adding final highlights and making adjustments as necessary.Focus on achieving a balanced look from different viewing angles.
Painting the Trim: Paint the trim using a mix of Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red as a base.Layer with Balor Brown, and then add highlights with a mix of Balor Brown and Mournfang Brown.Add final edge highlights and details to match the overall lighting and contrast of the shield.Finishing Touches:
Tidy up any rough edges or over-painted areas.Ensure that the shield’s various sections harmonize in terms of light and contrast.Remember to let each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next, and adjust the thickness of your paints with water to maintain control and avoid a textured buildup.
Video – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added Gore
Paints and Materials
Primer: Black
Paints:
Vallejo Neutral Grey
Vallejo Black
Vallejo Basalt Grey
Vallejo German Grey
Games Workshop Rhinox Hide
Games Workshop Blood for the Blood God
P3 Morrow White
Brushes: Fine detail brushes
Additional: Gloss varnish, super glue, fishing wire for gore effect
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory Mace
Priming: The mace should be primed in black.
Base Layering:
Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey. This can be created with a mix of black and white.
Use Pearl Grey Blue for slight colour variation, though this is optional.
German Grey can also be added to the mix.
Highlighting and Texture:
Focus on picking out angles and curves on the mace.
Ensure brighter parts on surfaces facing you, with darker shades on less visible parts.
Use a combination of different greys to build up layers and create a realistic metal effect.
Detailing:
Pay attention to the many facets of the mace, including chamfered edges and curves.
Use fine brushes for precision in highlighting these small, detailed areas.
Glazing:
Mix Rhinox Hide with a significant amount of water for a thin glaze.
Apply this to mid-tones to shadows, avoiding the brightest highlights.
This step enhances contrast and adds a hint of colour to the mace.
Adding the Gore Effect:
Attach thin strands of fishing wire to the mace using super glue to create dangling gore.
Apply gloss varnish to the connection points for added strength and flexibility.
Once the varnish is dry, cover the fishing wire with “Blood for the Blood God” paint.
Ensure the gore effect is applied in a realistic manner, considering where blood would naturally accumulate and drip from the mace.
Final Touches:
Revisit any areas that need refining or additional highlights.
Make sure the gore effect blends seamlessly with the painted mace.
Allow all layers to dry completely before handling.
Tips:
Take your time with each facet of the mace; precision is key to a realistic look.
Ensure your paint consistency is right for each step – thinner for glazing, thicker for opaquer details.
Be cautious when applying the gore effect; it’s a focal point but shouldn’t overwhelm the detailed painting beneath.
Video – Vampire Lord Face and Hair
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Calgar Blue, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, Mephiston RedVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and Hair
Painting the Face:Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Calgar Blue over the black primer. Expect poor coverage initially. Thin the paint with approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint. Apply 3-4 layers to achieve an opaque finish.
Highlighting: Create a mix of 50/50 Calgar Blue and Cadian Fleshtone. Apply this mix to specific areas of the face, considering the natural light fall. Key areas include the forehead, cheekbones, and areas between the eyes and nose. This mix will start to give a flesh tone, retaining a hint of blue for the undead look.
Further Detailing: Use Cadian Fleshtone and a mix of 50/50 Ushabti Bone and Cadian Fleshtone for additional highlighting. Focus on raised areas and consider how light interacts with facial features. Apply highlights gradually, using a heavily diluted mix for soft transitions.
Eyes and Mouth: Paint the eyes and the inside of the mouth in black. This step ensures these areas are defined and helps balance the highlights on the face.
Painting the Hair:Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey from Vallejo over the black primer. Switch to Khorne Red for a vibrant, contrasting colour to the skin. Thin the paint slightly and apply multiple coats for an even, opaque finish.
Highlighting: Use Ushabti Bone to highlight the hair. Mix it with Khorne Red in varying proportions, increasing the Ushabti Bone content for brighter highlights. Focus on areas where light would naturally hit, creating a shiny, luxurious look.
Glazing for Colour Depth: After highlighting, the hair may appear too desaturated. To bring back the richness of the red, glaze over the hair with a heavily diluted Mephiston Red. This step enhances the red colour while maintaining the shine.
Final Touches on Hair: Optionally, add Abaddon Black to the corn red to create darker shades in the hair, increasing the depth and contrast.
Video – Skeleton Base Part One
Paints and Materials
A skeleton figure from Warhammer Underworlds Warbands
Milliput and Fimo (or slate pieces)
Green stuff (50/50 mix of blue and yellow)
Super glue
Sand (variety in particle size, not sharp sand)
PVA glue (diluted with water)
Base brush (flat Games Workshop brush or equivalent)
Neutral Grey (Vallejo), Deathworld Forest, Morghast Bone, Agrax Earthshade, Athonian Camoshade, Astronomicon Grey (Games Workshop)
Water for thinning paints
Rock material guide by the fantastic Julien Casses:https://www.juliencasses.com/2012/11/how-to-make-rocks
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton Base
Building the Base
Prepare Skeleton: Start by preparing your skeleton figure, ensuring it has a ‘rising from the ground’ appearance.
Create Stone Slabs: Mix Milliput and Fimo, bake at 120°C for 30 minutes, then break into slabs to represent stones. Alternatively, use slate pieces. Attach these slabs to the base with super glue.
Apply Green Stuff: Mix blue and yellow Green Stuff and use it to create a ridge around the skeleton, giving the illusion of a hole from which the skeleton emerges. Embed the Vampire Lord’s rock into the Green Stuff to integrate it with the base.
Add Texture: Sculpt some small, round rocks using Green Stuff for added detail.
Sand Application: Cover the base in beach sand, avoiding sharp sand. Use various particle sizes for a natural look.
Painting the Base
Seal Sand: Brush diluted PVA glue over the sand to seal it and prevent flaking.
Base Colour for Sand: Dry brush the entire base with Deathworld Forest, focusing on sandy areas.
Highlighting Sand: Apply a lighter dry brush of Morghast Bone to the sand for highlights.
Defining Rocks: Use Agrax Earthshade as a thick glaze around the sculpted rocks to define their shapes.
Enhancing Greenery: Apply Athonian Camoshade to enhance the green tones on the base.
Rock Painting: Begin detailed painting on rocks using Neutral Grey. Focus on highlighting angles and adding scratchy details for texture.
Additional Rock Highlights: Use Pelgrave Blue, potentially mixed with white, to highlight rocks further. Remember not to overpower the model with the base’s contrast.
Enhancing Edges: Add lighter edges around rocks using Astronomicon Grey to define shapes.
Finishing Touches
Consider adding other details like small flowers or greenery to the base.
Reflect these colours onto the Vampire Lord for cohesion.
Ensure the base matches the quality and style of your painted model.
Video – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)
Paints and Materials
Paints: XV-88, Balor Brown, Moot Green, Deathworld Forest, Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop); Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black (Vallejo); Iosen Green, Morrow White (P3)
Mininatur Moss Pads and Flowers
Water for thinning paints
Brushes with fine tips
PVA Glue
Jeweler’s tweezers
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton Base
Painting the Skeleton
Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with white paint, thinned down. Apply 2-3 layers for an opaque finish. Avoid overloading to prevent the paint from pooling.
Adding Color to Eyes: Use Pro Acryl Golden Yellow (or any similar yellow) around the edges of the eye sockets, leaving the back white to mimic a light source. Then, use Moot Green, thinned down, around the yellow, ensuring smooth transitions.
Skeleton Bone: Use XV-88 to paint the skull and bones. Apply the paint thinly and unevenly to create a natural, weathered look. Emphasize areas where light would naturally hit, based on the light source direction.
Highlighting Bone: Apply Ushabti Bone for highlights, focusing on raised areas and edges. Keep the paint thin for a smooth finish.
Additional Details: Add small scratches or battle damage marks for realism.
Final Highlights on Bone: Use white (Morrow White) for the final highlights on the most raised areas.
Painting the Sword
Base Colour: Use Neutral Grey to paint the entire sword, including the hilt and blade.
Weathering: Add Mournfang Brown to the blade for a rust effect, focusing on recessed areas and pitted holes.
Highlighting the Blade: Use Pale Grey Blue for highlighting and adding scratchy details, focusing on areas that would catch light.
Rust Details: Add Trollslayer Orange in the deepest recesses for an inverted highlight effect.
Refining Highlights: Go back with Neutral Grey and Pale Grey Blue to refine the highlights and add more detail to the weathered look.
Painting the Cloth
Base Layer: Apply Deathworld Forest over black primer, focusing on raised folds and areas that would catch light.
Highlighting: Use Balor Brown for further highlights, keeping the paint very thin to maintain a dark, grubby appearance.
Adding Vegetation
Applying Moss Pads: Use PVA glue to attach Mininatur Moss Pads around the base. Utilize jeweler’s tweezers for precise placement.
Adding Flowers: Integrate white flowers from Mininatur for additional detail. Trim if necessary to avoid overpowering the base.
Adding Roots: For an emerging effect, glue small roots around the skeleton, bending them to create a natural look.
Dry Brushing: Gently dry brush Balor Brown over the moss pads to integrate them with the base and add depth.
Video – Simple Freehand Dragon
Paints and Materials
The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White
Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon
Prepare the Surface: Begin by roughly painting the inside of the shield with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide from Games Workshop. These paints should be heavily thinned with approximately two parts water to one part paint. Use a large brush, like a size 2 artist opus brush, for quick and broad coverage. This base coat doesn’t need to perfectly match the shield’s front colour, as it will largely be covered.
Apply Texture: The texture on the back of the shield differs from the front to differentiate it from the armor. Apply the paint in a scratchy manner to simulate wear and tear. For this, use Neutral Grey from Vallejo, mixed with Ice Yellow for highlights, and German Grey for darker areas. Remember, this part doesn’t have to be perfectly blended, as some roughness adds character.
Glazing: If needed, glaze over the scratchy texture with more diluted Rhinox Hide and German Grey. Glazing helps to soften the texture and can hide any imperfections in the painting.
Freehanding the Dragon: When painting the dragon, start with a reference photo of the dragon design on the shield’s front. This helps maintain consistency across the model. Use Vallejo Model Color Black for the dragon outline, ensuring the paint is well-diluted for fine lines.
Brush Selection: Use a fine brush for detailed work. A worn-out brush might not give the sharp lines needed for intricate details. A newer, sharper brush is recommended for finer details and corrections.
Highlighting the Dragon: Start with Neutral Grey for initial highlights. For more pronounced highlights, mix Neutral Grey with Ice Yellow, leaning more towards Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Apply these highlights only to the upper edges of the dragon design, where light would naturally catch.
Adjusting for 3D Effect: Paint the inside of the dragon with a darker grey, such as a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey, to create depth and avoid a flat black appearance.
Final Touches: Add fine highlights to the dragon, especially along the edges and raised areas, to enhance the 3D effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow for the brightest points. Be mindful of the shield’s orientation to ensure that highlights correspond to the light source.
Painting the Shield Trim: Finally, paint the shield’s trim, likely in a gold or metal colour. This trim frames the dragon and gives a polished look to the shield, enhancing the overall appearance.
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A series for how to paint an Askurgan Exemplar from the Warcry Bloodhunt box, who I painted as part of my Commended Golden Demon Entry for 2023. Because it’s a Demon entry, the techniques will be very in-depth and very precise!In these videos you will learn how to paint his undead skin, red robes and rope, NMM metals on his weapon and armour, horn effect on his trophy rack and lots of other little tips and tricks. Read on to explore them along with paints, materials and step by step help.
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part One: Face, Arm and ShoulderMaterials and PaintsPainting the SkinNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) on ArmourAdditional TipsHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part Two: Red Robes, Hair and RopeMaterials and PaintsPainting Red RobesTechnique and BrushworkPainting HairPainting the RopeNon-Metallic Metal Effect on CollarOther TipsHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 3: Sword Blade, Gold Sword Hilt and Hip ArmourMaterials and PaintsBase CoatingPainting the RopeHip ArmourSword Blade and HandleDetailing and Finishing TouchesEdge Highlighting and RefinementHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 4: Trophy Rack and HornsMaterials and PaintsTrophy Rack Horns How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 5: NMM SwordPaints and Materials RequiredBase Coat and HighlightingBlade Edge DetailingFlat Blade SurfaceReflections and HighlightsEdge HighlightsRefining and Adjusting HighlightsFinal TouchesHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Dirt On His RobePreparing to PaintAdding Depth with Mournfang BrownFinishing Touches with Balor BrownGeneral Tips for an Authentic EffectMore Undead and Vampire Tutorials to Explore!
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part One: Face, Arm and Shoulder
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints
Paints: Games Workshop (Sotek Green, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet), Vallejo (Toxic Yellow, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black), Two Thin Coats (Dark Sun Yellow – optional)
White Paint: Schmincke White
Brushes: Size 00 and other fine brushes for detailed work
Painting the Skin
Base Colour: Mix Sotek Green with Cadian Fleshtone for a warm, turquoise green. This will be your base colour for the skin, providing a unique look while not being too dark.
Building Highlights: Progressively lighten this mixture by adding more Kislev Flesh, and Toxic Yellow from Vallejo for higher highlights. The aim is to create a series of progressively lighter shades, leading up to a final mix of Toxic Yellow, Kislev Flesh, and Schmincke White for the brightest highlights.
Application Technique: Use a very thin consistency (about 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint). Apply with a size 00 brush, focusing on upwards-facing surfaces and muscles for a natural look. Remember, the key is to layer thinly and build up the colour gradually.
Detailing the Face: For the vampire’s face, focus on defining sharp features while maintaining a natural appearance. Use the lightest colour mix for the highest points like the brow ridges and cheekbones. The eyes are painted black with Yriel Yellow for the irises, positioned such that the upper eyelid slightly covers the iris.
Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) on Armour
Chest Armour: Begin with a base of Mournfang Brown. For highlighting, use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, progressively adding more Ice Yellow for brighter areas. Paint the armour’s detailed features like fangs and textures with care, incrementally building up to white for the highest highlights.
Shoulder Armour: Start with Neutral Grey, building up highlights towards the top where the light naturally hits. Add reflections and finer details, creating a smooth transition from light to dark. Use Mournfang Brown, thinned down, for adding tonal variation and depth.
Gold Details: Utilise a combination of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow (or Balor Brown) for the base of gold areas. Highlight with Ice Yellow, and for the brightest spots, use a mix of Ice Yellow and Schmincke White. Be sure to maintain the gold’s richness by not over-highlighting with white, thus keeping the metallic effect.
Additional Tips
Glazing: Use glazes (thin, transparent layers of paint) to smooth out transitions between colours, especially on the gold and armour sections.
Edge Highlighting: On the armour, especially the shoulder guards, use edge highlighting to define shapes and enhance the metallic appearance.
Reflections and Light Sources: Be mindful of the environment’s impact on reflections. Vary the reflections on different parts of the armour to create a more dynamic and realistic look.
Detailing and Textures: Pay attention to the texture of each surface. For instance, the vampire’s skin should have a smooth finish, while the armour can have a more textured appearance.
Consistency Across the Unit: If this model is part of a unit, ensure consistency in the painting style and colour scheme across all models, while allowing for individual variations. One of the reasons I believe I missed out on a trophy with my vampires is because I made them all much too unique and they didn’t look like they were part of the group. Cohesion and lore accuracy is very important for Golden Demon! I talk about this a bit more in my Golden Demon 2023 video, here. Anyway, sorry, back to the model..!
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part Two: Red Robes, Hair and Rope
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints
Games Workshop Colours:Rhinox Hide: A deep brown, used as a base for the red robes.Mournfang Brown: Utilized in creating non-metallic gold effects and for darkening rope.Mephiston Red: Employed to enrich the red highlights.Evil Sunz Scarlet: A vibrant red for brighter highlights.Wild Rider Red: Used very sparingly for the highest red highlights.Balor Brown: Mixed with other colors for non-metallic gold effects.Karak Stone: The base for the rope.Skeleton Horde (Contrast): Applied for shading and depth on the rope.
Vallejo Colours:Toxic Yellow: Mixed for non-metallic gold effects and for rope detailing.Ice Yellow: Used in similar contexts as Toxic Yellow.Neutral Grey: A base for light grey hair and for mixing higher highlights.German Grey: Mixed with Neutral Grey for hair.Black: Used for various detailing and mixing.
Other Materials:Schmincke White: An artist’s acrylic paint used for the highest highlights, particularly in the hair.
Painting Red Robes
Base Coat: Start with Rhinox Hide. Despite its brown tone, it’s essentially a deep red. Apply this as a base for the robe.
First Highlight: Mix Rhinox Hide with Mephiston Red. This creates a richer, warmer red. Apply with a size 2 brush for broad strokes.
Subsequent Highlights: Progressively lighten the red using Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red. Be cautious with Wild Rider Red, using it sparingly to maintain the robe’s red saturation.
Technique and Brushwork
Use a larger brush for the broader areas of the robe to achieve smooth, clean strokes.
For finer areas, switch to a smaller brush for precise application and to highlight raised details and creases.
Painting Hair
Initially, aim for shiny black hair, but later shift to a light grey, matte finish.
Use Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights, painting in the direction of the hair’s texture.
Be mindful of the hairline; avoid a stark contrast between the skin and hair. Aim for a subtle shadow effect.
Painting the Rope
Base coat the rope with Karak Stone.
Use a larger brush to cover the area efficiently.
Apply Skeleton Horde contrast paint for shading and depth.
For texture, add tiny lines with a mix of Karak Stone and white, representing the rope’s fibres.
Non-Metallic Metal Effect on Collar
This segment is challenging due to its intricate texture.
Use a mix of Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Toxic Yellow, and Ice Yellow to create a gold effect.
Add white for the brightest highlights, focusing on the collar’s embossed details.
Other Tips
Throughout the process, maintain a balance between boldness and subtlety. The goal is to accentuate the model’s features without overwhelming its overall appearance. Key points to remember:
Layering and Blending: The layering technique is crucial, especially for the red robes. Begin with dark tones and gradually build up to lighter hues, ensuring a seamless transition.
Directional Brushwork: Align your brush strokes with the texture and direction of the materials you are painting, whether it’s the flow of the robes or the strands of hair. This approach enhances realism.
Contrast and Focal Points: High contrast areas, like the non-metallic metal collar, should be approached with caution. Ensure they complement, rather than overpower, the focal points like the face.
Texture and Detailing: The rope’s texture is a time-consuming but rewarding aspect. Those fine lines, while tedious, add a significant level of detail to the model.
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 3: Sword Blade, Gold Sword Hilt and Hip Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints
Games Workshop Colours:
Rhinox Hide: A deep, dark brown, used for shading and creating gradients on elements like the rope and as a base for other colours.
Mournfang Brown: Employed in non-metallic metal effects and to add depth to certain elements.
Mephiston Red: A bright red, used for adding vivid highlights and details.
Balor Brown: Mixed with other colours for non-metallic gold effects.
Karak Stone: Used as a base colour for the rope.
Skeleton Horde (Contrast): Applied for shading and to add depth, especially on the rope.
Vallejo Colours:
Ice Yellow: Mixed for creating highlights and for non-metallic gold effects.
Neutral Grey: A base for grey tones and for mixing higher highlights.
German Grey: Used in conjunction with Neutral Grey for various details.
Black: Employed for shading and defining details.
Other Materials:
Schmincke White: An artist-grade acrylic paint used for the highest level of highlights.
Base Coating
Apply the base colours: Rhinox Hide for darker areas, Mournfang Brown for metallic parts, Karak Stone for the rope, and other base colours as required for different parts.
Painting the Rope
Apply Karak Stone as the base colour.
Shade with Skeleton Horde (Contrast) to add depth.
For weathering effects, use Rhinox Hide in a glaze consistency (about three parts water to one part paint) at the bottom of the rope.
Hip Armour
Paint the ropes in the armour with the same technique as the main rope.
For the armoured plates (that resemble bones), start with a metallic base using Mournfang Brown.
Create a non-metallic metal effect by gradually building up layers, transitioning to lighter colours like Balor Brown and then Ice Yellow. Include reflective highlights where light would naturally hit.
Sword Blade and Handle
For the sword blade, use Neutral Grey as a base, applying highlights where light would naturally reflect. Pay attention to any sculpted details like indents or edges, and enhance these with your highlights.
The sword hilt is treated similarly, with a non-metallic gold technique. Start with Mournfang Brown, adding highlights and transitioning to lighter tones like Ice Yellow and White.
For both the blade and hilt, remember to add glazes for smoother transitions.
Detailing and Finishing Touches
Enhance the gold sections (such as the bracelets and sword hilt) with Ice Yellow and White for bright highlights.
For small details like rings or intricate parts of the armour, use precise brush strokes. Highlight the top edges and create contrast with darker shades in recesses.
If necessary, use glazes (a thin mix of paint and water) to smooth out transitions and make the colours more cohesive.
Pay attention to the consistency of the paint. It should be thin enough to flow smoothly but not so thin that it loses opacity.
Edge Highlighting and Refinement
Carefully apply edge highlights to the armor and sword, using lighter colors like Ice Yellow or White. This step brings out the details and gives a more three-dimensional appearance.
For the sword blade, create the effect of light reflecting off the blade by adding thin lines and highlights. Remember to adjust the intensity based on the angle and curvature of the blade.
Use a mix of Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, and White to create the non-metallic metal effect, building up to the brightest highlights where the light would be strongest.
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 4: Trophy Rack and Horns
Materials and Paints
Brushes: Size 2 M Artist Opus, Size 0 and 00
Paints: Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Skeleton Horde (Contrast); Vallejo’s Ice Yellow, Dead White
Trophy Rack
Base Coat
Combine Rhinox Hide and Evil Sunz Scarlet in a 2:1 ratio
Thin the mixture with equal parts water for a smoother application
First Highlight
Add Balor Brown to the base mix for a subdued pink tone
Apply carefully, ensuring light effects align with the model’s other parts
Additional Highlights
Incrementally introduce more Balor Brown and a touch of Ice Yellow for brighter highlights
Utilise the larger brush for expansive areas, switching to finer brushes for detailed texturing
Detailing Filigree
Employ a slender brush for precision
Gently add lighter paint to intricate patterns, avoiding overly fluid paint
Horns
Begin with Ushabti Bone on a black base, requiring several layers for full coverage
Typically, four coats achieve a solid foundation
Gradients
Gradually mix in Rhinox Hide with Ushabti Bone for shading
Paint each segment, progressing towards the horn’s tip
Texture Highlights
Revert to Ushabti Bone for accentuating raised textures
Apply using small wiggles and dots, extending into less detailed areas
Horns – Finishing Touches
Apply a significantly diluted Rhinox Hide for softening transitions
Use Skeleton Horde Contrast for added depth and hue
Final Notes
Ensure uniform painting on all sides of the horns
Balance detailed work with broader strokes for a unified, realistic appearance
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 5: NMM Sword
This guide focuses on creating a realistic non-metallic metal (NMM) effect on a sword, employing careful layering and blending techniques to achieve a shiny appearance. Patience and attention to detail are key in this process.
Paints and Materials Required
Brushes: Various sizes for detailed work
Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, German Grey, Black; Games Workshop Mournfang Brown
Base Coat and Highlighting
Start with Neutral Grey as the base colour
Mix Neutral Grey with a small amount of Ice Yellow for the first stage highlight
Progressively add Ice Yellow to the mixture for brighter highlights
Use Ice Yellow with a touch of White for the brightest points
Thin the paints appropriately for smooth application
Blade Edge Detailing
Focus on parallel line textures for the cutting blade edge
Use horizontal and vertical strokes for diverse textural effects
Emphasize the sharpness of the blade with these line details
Flat Blade Surface
Change brush marks on the flat blade surface for distinction
Plan for coloured reflections, using Mournfang Brown as a glazing colour
Reflections and Highlights
Paint all reflections in grey tones before applying colour glazes
Remember that the lower edge of the blade will reflect the ground, requiring a different treatment
Use glazes to soften and blend reflections and highlights
Edge Highlights
Apply fine line highlights along the sharpest part of the blade
Ensure these highlights are thin and precise for a realistic effect
Refining and Adjusting Highlights
Adjust and refine highlights as needed for balance and symmetry
Use a mix of stippling and glazing techniques for smoother transitions
Pay attention to the spine of the sword, adjusting the placement and intensity of highlights
Final Touches
Use glazes to smooth out textures, especially when working with lighter colours
Consider the overall composition and aesthetic appeal when placing final highlights
Ensure a unified and realistic look by balancing light and shadow
How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Dirt On His Robe
Paints Required
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown
Preparing to Paint
Begin with Rhinox Hide: Apply at the very bottom of the robe. This colour blends well with the red robe, creating a subtle effect. As you move upwards, make the application more visible with small dots and splotches. This creates an impression of staining.
Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown
Switch to Mournfang Brown: This shade gives depth to the weathering effect. Initially, it might seem light but it darkens as it dries. If you find it too strong, you can tone it down with Rhinox Hide to soften the effect. The key here is to balance the intensity, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the base colour of the robe.
Finishing Touches with Balor Brown
Finalise with Balor Brown: This is a strong colour, so apply it cautiously. It’s significantly different from the previous colours and can make a bold impact. Focus on the very bottom of the robe, gradually building up a denser application of paint. Be mindful of areas near the highlights, such as near the foot of the robe at the front. Here, you might need to add more Balor Brown to counteract the brighter red tones.
General Tips for an Authentic Effect
Strive for unevenness: Avoid symmetrical or uniform patterns. Some areas should appear dirtier than others for a realistic effect.
Control the paint consistency: Aim for a 50/50 mix of paint to water for optimal flow and control. This consistency allows you to work for an extended period without creating a heavy texture.
Use a smaller brush: A smaller brush gives you more control, especially for creating uneven, chaotic patterns. Avoid pressing too hard to prevent large, unintended marks.
Adjust for mistakes: If you apply too much paint, quickly rub it off with your finger. For smears, stipple over them with a bit of Rhinox Hide to create interesting marks.
More Undead and Vampire Tutorials to Explore!
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How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters, which was sent to me as an early review copy from Games Workshop. Currently this includes his face, horns and hair to his shining red armour and NMM gold trim.
You can watch the current tutorials in order by scrolling down, or quick jump to a specific technique, paints lists or tips by clicking on the options below:
Video Part One: How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters Armour, Horns, Eyes, HairPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo Part Two : Red ArmourPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo Part Three : Bronze Trim on the Armour (NMM)Paints and Materials UsedStep by Step Guide
Video Part One: How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters Armour, Horns, Eyes, Hair
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Used
Games Workshop: Barak-Nar Burgandy, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, XV-88, Balor Brown Vallejo: Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow optional) Two Thin Coats: White Star, Carcharodon Grey, Doomdeath Black
Brushes: Fine detail brushes, larger brushes for smooth transitions.
Palette: Wet palette recommended for paint mixing and consistency maintenance.
Step by Step Guide
1. Priming:
Prime the head using Ultimate Primer (black), thinned with airbrush thinner for a matte finish.
2. Armour (Red Parts):
Basecoat the helmet with Barak-Nar Burgundy, extending slightly onto the horns for a color transition.
Apply Mephiston Red over the burgundy for the true red areas. This serves as the key red tone.
For highlights, carefully apply Evil Sunz Scarlet, followed by Wild Rider Red, ensuring the Mephiston Red remains visible for a true red effect.
3. Horns:
Start with a dark mix of XV-88 and black, blending into the burgundy on the helmet.
Gradually lighten towards the tips using XV-88 with diminishing amounts of black.
Finish the tips with pure XV-88 and a touch of Morghast Bone, ensuring smooth transitions.
4. Eyes:
Base the eyes with Sotek Green.
Highlight with a mix of Sotek Green and White Star.
Add final highlights using pure White Star, placed strategically for a realistic lens effect.
5. Hair:
Begin with a base of Barak-Nar Burgundy.
Gradually mix in White Star for highlights, focusing on the upward-facing sections.
Aim for smooth transitions to mimic natural hair shine.
6. Metal Details:
Use a mix of Doomdeath Black and Carcharodon Grey for base and mid-tones.
Highlight with Carcharodon Grey and White Star.
Add red reflections from the armor using the red tones previously mentioned.
7. Teeth:
Use the grey mix (Carcharodon Grey with black, then pure Carcharodon Grey) for base and mid-tones.
Highlight the teeth with White Star, considering the light source for realistic placement.
8. Leather Strips (Topknot):
Base with Rhinox Hide.
Layer with Dwarf Skin and Elf Skin (or similar tones like Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone).
Glaze with thinned Mournfang Brown for added warmth.
Video Part Two : Red Armour
This video shows how to paint the red armour on the juggernaut of Khorne
Paints and Materials Used
The following paints were used: Vallejo Model Colour (new): Evil Red, Nocturnal Red Games Workshop: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red Two Thin Coats: White Star (Any white will do)
Step by Step Guide
1. Base Layer:
Begin by applying a base coat of Evil Red from Vallejo Model Colour. This hue is a dark burgundy or purple tone. It may necessitate several layers to achieve a consistent and opaque covering.
2. Initial Highlight:
Use Nocturnal Red from Vallejo Model Colour for the first layer of highlights. This shade is a deep and rich red, offering more vibrancy compared to Evil Red, thus setting the stage for subsequent highlighting.
3. Main Highlights:
Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet by Games Workshop for primary highlights. This brighter shade contrasts well with the darker base.
For heightened highlights and a more textured finish, apply Wild Rider Red by Games Workshop to areas that would naturally catch more light.
To create the textured effect, employ a small brush (such as size 00) and make small, scratchy, stipple-like marks on the armour, focusing on areas where light naturally falls.
4. Enhanced Highlighting and Blending:
If the transition between Nocturnal Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet seems too abrupt, blend them by applying Nocturnal Red over the edges of the Evil Sunz Scarlet highlights.
For the brightest points, mix Wild Rider Red with White Star (or any white paint) and apply cautiously. Excessive white can desaturate the red and diminish its intensity.
Soften and merge the texture marks by glazing over them with thinned Nocturnal Red.
5. Refinement:
Alternate between Nocturnal Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red to refine the texture and smoothly blend the highlights.
Adjust the highlight intensity depending on the curvature and structure of the armour pieces.
6. Final Adjustments:
Once content with the highlighting and texture, make any final tweaks necessary. This might involve reinforcing the deepest shadows or adding a final glaze to unify the colours.
Technique Tips:
Consistency is key. Ensure the paint is properly thinned for a smoother application.
Build up the colours in layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next.
Consider the light source and its interaction with the armour’s shape when placing highlights.
For the textured effect, use just the tip of the brush with a gentle hand.
Video Part Three : Bronze Trim on the Armour (NMM)
This video shows how to paint the bronze trim on the juggernaut armour using NMM (Non Metallic Metal)
The following paints were used:
Paints and Materials Used
Vallejo Model Colour (New): Gorgon Brown, Grunge Brown, Sunset Orange, Toxic Yellow Two Thin Coats: Doomdeath Black, White Star (and black and white will do)
Step by Step Guide
1. Base Coat:
Start by applying Gorgon Brown from Vallejo Model Colour. This colour serves as your base for the bronze trim. It’s a dark brown that’s not as red as Rhinox Hide but works well for this purpose.
2. Building the Colour:
Next, apply Grunge Brown, also from Vallejo, to begin building up the bronze colour. This shade will act as a mid-tone in your NMM technique.
3. Adding Highlights:
Use Sunset Orange from Vallejo Model Colour to start highlighting the raised areas of the trim. Blend it in at the sides with Grunge Brown for a smoother transition.
4. Mixing for Intermediate Shades:
Create a mix of Grunge Brown and Sunset Orange (about 50/50) to create an intermediate shade. Use this to bridge the gap between the darker base and the brighter highlights.
5. Further Highlighting:
Proceed with Toxic Yellow from Vallejo Model Colour for your next layer of highlights. This colour, akin to Ice Yellow, provides a nice, smooth application and gives a cooler yellow tone to your bronze.
6. Using White for Final Highlights:
For the brightest highlights, mix a small amount of White Star from Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats (or any suitable white paint) with your highlight colour. Apply this sparingly to the most raised and reflective areas of the trim.
7. Refining and Adjusting:
Go back and forth between your colours, adjusting the blends and refining the highlights. Remember, NMM is about creating the illusion of metal through contrast and careful placement of lights and darks.
8. Glazing for Saturation:
If the colours lack saturation or depth, glaze over the mid-tones and shadows with a diluted Grunge Brown. This step adds richness and depth to the bronze colour.
Technique Tips:
Aim for smooth transitions between shades. Use glazing techniques to blend the layers seamlessly.
Focus on the light source and how it would naturally hit the trim. The highest points should have the brightest highlights.
For NMM, contrast is key. Don’t shy away from using dark shadows against bright highlights to mimic the reflective nature of metal.
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
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This video shows you how to paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz army for Age of Sigmar. The model was painted exclusively using Two Thin Coats paints.In this how to paint a Squigboss video, we’ll be doing something a bit different. I’ll guide you through the process of painting the Squig boss, generously sent to me by Games Workshop. Alongside, I’ll be reviewing a set of paints I personally purchased, intrigued by reviews—the Two Thin Coats series by Duncan Rhodes. These paints will exclusively adorn our Squigboss, and I’ve procured them independently. So, no sponsorships or freebies; it’s all about exploring these paints. Now, let’s get started!
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:Two Thin Coats: Two Thin Coats: Doom Death Black, White Star, Etheral Green, Carcharodon Grey, Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, Skeleton Legion, Demon Red, Scorched Earth, Dragon Fang, Boar Hide, Sanguine Scarlet, Dwarven Skin, Marine Blue, Orange Flare, Emerald Green, Wolf Grey, Fanatic Orange, Cuirass Leather, Berserker Red
Tips on how to paint a Squigboss with these paints!
Base Coat with Boar Hide Colour:Initiate with the “Boar Hide” shade, akin to Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, serving as the foundational coat for the entire Squig boss model.
Non-Metallic Metal Gold Face Mask:I’ve gone for a non-metallic gold style for the goblin’s face mask, utilising the unique properties of the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats series.Apply the same colours used for the face mask on the staff, creating a non-metallic metal effect. Note differences in technique for different areas.
Adapting to Paint Properties:The paints seem quite nice to work with. Thinning is essential, however, and adapting to the colours’ strength becomes a creative challenge.
Use Translucent Marks for Subtle Effects:Experiment with translucent or softer marks by thinning the paint more. This technique can be effective for creating subtle details but requires precision in application.
Be Mindful of Paint Strength:As mentioned, the colour strength might be stronger than anticipated, so be cautious when adding subtle marks. Adjust as needed to avoid overpowering the model with vibrant colours.
Varied Application Techniques:Explore different application techniques for varied textures and effects. The angular features of the model complement the paints’ adaptability very well and allows for creative highlighting and detailing
Matte Finish and Dark Tones:Consider a matte finish for the model to achieve a pastel look. Embrace the dark and yellow tones for added depth and character.
Diverse Colour Palette for Highlights:Incorporate a diverse colour palette, such as Dark Sun Yellow, for highlighting and detailing, providing a unique touch to gold and other elements. The matte finish and the richness these paints bring to dark and yellow tones is great.
Quick Scratches and Detailing:Create quick, sharp scratches and detailing, adding interest to specific areas without the need for extensive blending. Quick and sharp detailing becomes a breeze with these paints, making them ideal for adding interesting detail without the need for laborious blending.
Highlighting with Translucent White:Use translucent white for highlighting, applying small amounts to achieve a subtle effect. Ensure quick application to prevent drying before reaching the model.
Colour Variations for Textures:Experiment with different colours for textures, adapting to the model’s features. Allow the varied palette to enhance details and bring out the intricacies. The paints are good at bringing out intricate details.
Teeth Detailing:Detail the teeth with simple lines, complementing the skin fold creases. Use the extra detailing to fill spaces and add interest without smoothing transitions.
Remember, the beauty lies in adapting and exploring the properties of the paints. Happy painting!
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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This video shows you how to paint the Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull and Skin on a Blood Bowl Mummy.
Video Tutorial – How to Paint the Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull and Skin
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints (Games Workshop):
Mournfang Brown
Rhinox Hide
XV-88
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Ushabti Bone
Death Korps Drab
Hobgrot Hide (not recommended)
Trollslayer Orange
Paints (Vallejo):
Ice Yellow
Pure White
Neutral Grey
Brushes:
Size 00 Artist Opus Brush (for detailed work)
Size 2 Artist Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing)
Other Materials:
MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect)
Step-by-Step Guide
1. How to Paint the Bandages:
Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages.
Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect.
Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail.
Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages.
2. How to Paint the Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold):
Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base.
Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect.
Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades.
3. How to Paint the Clothing (Trousers/Pants):
Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour.
Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights.
4. How to Paint the Belt:
Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour.
Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick.
5. How to Paint the Skin:
Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas.
Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition.
6. How to Paint the Base and Finishing Touches:
Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass.
Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model.
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This video and guide shows how to paint an Ogroid sword with NMM (non-metallic metal) and rusty effects.
(Apologies for the dog hair)
Video : How to Paint an Ogroid Sword with NMM and Rust
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!)
Paints and Materials
Paints
Games Workshop:
Mournfang Brown
Troll Slayer Orange
Fire Dragon Bright
Rhinox Hide
Vallejo:
Ice Yellow
Black
German Grey
Neutral Grey
Pure White (Mecha Color)
Brushes
A range of brushes were used, including but not limited to:
A fine detail brush (such as a size 0 or 00), used for detailed work and fine highlights.
A larger brush (like a size 2), which can be useful for broader strokes and glazing.
Other Materials
Blue Tack: Used to temporarily attach the sword to the model for assessing lighting and highlight placement.
Wet Palette: Essential for mixing and maintaining paint consistency.
Water: For thinning paints, essential for techniques like glazing and stippling.
Step-by-Step
Basecoat and Shades:
Start with a neutral grey, darkened slightly with black.
Create a gradient of greys by mixing German Grey with Neutral Grey, and then adding Ice Yellow for various shades. This creates a series of warm greys for highlights.
Use a wet palette to mix and maintain the paint consistency.
Highlighting the Blade:
Focus on creating a main shine spot on the curved part of the blade, as this area naturally catches more light.
Add random reflections down the blade. Over-highlight initially as you will glaze over these later to reduce their intensity.
Remember that the flat of the blade will be rusty, so avoid highlighting this area.
Adding Details:
Paint distinct blocks of highlights or reflections on the blade, especially around the curved section.
Start with darker greys and layer up to lighter ones, finishing with Pure White for the brightest spots.
Use vertical brush strokes for control and consistency.
Rust Effects on the Blade:
Stipple Mournfang Brown over the flat of the blade for a textured rust effect. Be random and uneven in your application.
Layer Troll Slayer Orange over this, focusing on specific patches for an uneven and realistic rust effect.
Optionally, use Fire Dragon Bright for the brightest rust highlights.
Refining and Adding Scratches:
Add scratches and chips using a mixture of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow.
Apply these details sparingly and randomly to avoid patterns.
For added depth, add a line of a darker colour (like Rhinox Hide) above some of the scratches.
Finishing Touches:
Make final adjustments to the highlights and rust effects.
Use glazing techniques to soften transitions and blend colours seamlessly.
Be cautious with the use of white; too much can detract from the warm effect.
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How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy with weathered NMM bronze effects, bandages, clothing, NMM Skull and Skin!
Scroll town to explore the two video tutorials in order, or quick jump to specific techniques and materials you might need.
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with VerdigrisPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze MummyVideo Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and BasePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideBandagesSkull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)Clothing (Trousers/Pants)BeltSkinBase and Finishing Touches
Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with Verdigris
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Pure White
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy
1. Priming and Base Coating:
Start with the model already primed in black. Apply Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) roughly on the armour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. The application at this stage can be quite loose and liberal.
2. Layering for Texture:
Proceed with XV-88 (Games Workshop), this time being more careful and refined in your brushwork. Focus on creating a weathered texture, interpreting the previous layer’s marks as damage or wear. Use the very tip of the brush for finer lines and stippling.
3. Detailing with Lighter Tones:
Use Balor Brown (Games Workshop) to further enhance the details. At this stage, focus on the edges, rivets, and any other raised details on the armour. Remember, the aim is to create a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the lower edges of dents or imperfections to create depth.
4. Highest Highlights:
Introduce Ice Yellow (Vallejo) for the brightest parts of the armour. Apply it sparingly and only on the most raised areas to create the illusion of light reflecting off metal. Be cautious with this step to maintain a realistic metallic look.
5. Glazing for Depth:
If needed, mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with water to create a glaze. Apply this over areas that are in shadow or need to be toned down. This step helps integrate the highlights and creates a more cohesive look.
6. Applying Verdigris:
For the verdigris effect, use Sybarite Green and Gauss Blaster Green (both Games Workshop). Thin these paints down considerably. Apply them mainly in recessed areas, joints, and crevices where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Avoid covering the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen.
Technique Tips:
Work in layers, building up from dark to light to create depth and realism.
Focus on where light naturally hits the model, creating highlights that follow the form and curvature of the armour.
In the verdigris step, less is more. It’s easier to add more verdigris effect than to remove it, so start with a light application and build up as neede
Video Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and Base
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints (Games Workshop):
Mournfang Brown
Rhinox Hide
XV-88
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Ushabti Bone
Death Korps Drab
Hobgrot Hide (not recommended)
Trollslayer Orange
Paints (Vallejo):
Ice Yellow
Pure White
Neutral Grey
Brushes:
Size 00 Artis Opus Brush (for detailed work)
Size 2 Artis Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing)
Other Materials:
MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect)
Step-by-Step Guide
Bandages
Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages.
Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect.
Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail.
Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages.
Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)
Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base.
Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect.
Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades.
Clothing (Trousers/Pants)
Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour.
Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights.
Belt
Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour.
Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick.
Skin
Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas.
Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition.
Base and Finishing Touches
Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass.
Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model.
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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This video shows how to paint Horus Ascended from the Horus Heresy. The video looks at his skin, the red osl glow around his head, the armour and the NMM armour trim.
Video: How to Paint Horus – Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Sons of Horus Green, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Balor BrownVallejo: Ice Yellow, Black, Neutral Grey P3: Morrow White
Steps and Tips
Assembly and Preparation:Assemble the model but leave the wolf pelt, cloak, and head unattached for ease of painting.Carefully address any mould lines on the mace, ensuring a clean finish.Utilise a heat gun to reshape the wolf pelt for an accurate fit on the model.
Priming:Prime the model thoroughly and allow it to set overnight.
Base Painting:Begin with a base coat of Mephiston Red, particularly on areas destined for the red glow (Object Source Lighting, OSL). Apply this in a brisk and relaxed style, without focusing on blending.
Building the Glow:Layer Wild Rider Red and Troll Slayer Orange, concentrating on recesses to enhance the glow effect.Incorporate Yriel Yellow for added brightness in the OSL areas.
Head Details:For the head, apply Cadian Fleshtone as a base to simulate natural lighting.Layer with Bugman’s Glow to establish depth and realistic skin tones.Highlight the forehead and areas receiving the main light with a mixture of Cadian Fleshtone and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for a pronounced highlight.
Armour Details:Start the armour with a base of Sons of Horus Green.For depth, mix Sons of Horus Green with black for shadowed areas, and with Ice Yellow for highlighted regions.
Metallic Effects:For non-metallic metal effects on trims and details, commence with XV-88 as a base.Progressively apply layers using Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, and Balor Brown, accentuating edges and raised details to mimic a metallic sheen.Employ Vallejo’s Neutral Grey for areas resembling steel or iron.
Finishing Touches:For ultimate highlights and refinement, use P3’s Morrow White.
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These videos show how to a paint a Nurgle shield with freehand for an Ogroid from the Slaves to Darkness army box.The freehand is if a Nurgle Plaguebearer head and is intended as a potential Golden Demon entry.
Scroll down to explore the tutorials and steps in order, or click the below to quick jump to a technique or section.
Video One: How to Paint a Nurgle Shield with FreehandPaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide: PreparationBase PaintingFreehand SketchingRefining and DetailingFinal TouchesImportant NotesVideo Two: How to Paint the Shield Shine and NMM TrimPaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsStep-by-Step GuidePreparing the PalettePainting the ShinePainting the NMM TrimFinal TouchesImportant NotesMore Freehand Tutorials to Explore
Video One: How to Paint a Nurgle Shield with Freehand
Paints and Materials Used
Paints
Games Workshop Paints:
Rhinox Hide
Bugman’s Glow
Mournfang Brown
Morghast Bone
Deathworld Forest
Yriel Yellow
Khorne Red
Ushabti Bone
Vallejo Paints:
Black
Ice Yellow
P3 Paint:
Morrow White
Brushes
Artist Opus:
Size 00 brushes (both a newer brush for finer details and an older brush for blending)
Other Materials
Wet Palette: To keep paints moist and workable.
Scalpel: For removing details from the shield.
Sandpaper: For smoothing the shield after using the scalpel.
Primer: Ultimate primer (specifically thinned with X20A for this project).
Mixing Water: For thinning paints on the palette.
Matte Varnish: To even out the surface and finish of the paint job.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Preparation
Prep the Nurgle Shield with Freehand: Remove intricate details from the shield using a scalpel and sand it slightly. Keep some battle damage for authenticity, if you wish.
Prime the Shield: Use Ultimate primer, thinned with X20A, applied in 4-5 thin coats.
Base Painting
Wet Palette Setup: Prepare a wet palette with the following Games Workshop colours: Ice Yellow, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Deathworld Forest, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, and Ushabti Bone. Also, have Vallejo Black and P3 Morrow White ready.
Mixing Colours: Create various mixes of these colours on the palette, adjusting with water for a thinner consistency (approximately 50/50).
Freehand Sketching
Initial Sketch: Start sketching the Nurgle face on the shield using Bugman’s Glow. This doesn’t have to be symmetrical or realistic.
Adding Details: Gradually add more details like eyes, horns, and facial deformations using the mixed colours. Use Rhinox Hide for shading.
Background Technique: Use Vallejo Black as a ‘rubber’ to tweak and correct the sketch as needed.
Refining and Detailing
Light and Shadow: Use the lighter and darker mixes to create depth, focusing on the facial features. Ensure a balance between highlights and shadows.
Adding Texture: Pay attention to the direction of brushstrokes to replicate skin texture and facial creases.
Final Touches
Metallic Effects: For a Golden Demon entry, ensure to incorporate light volumes and reflective effects on the shield, as well as on the freehand.
Glazing: You may need to glaze over the freehand to integrate it with the shield’s overall shine and metallic effect.
Varnishing: Finish the shield with a matte varnish to even out different paint finishes.
Important Notes
Brush Technique: Use the very tip of your brush for detailed work. Switch between an older brush for blending and a newer one for sharp details.
Colour Importance: While exact colour mixes are flexible, ensure to maintain the overall desaturated, moody look characteristic of Nurgle.
Patience and Layers: Build up the image with multiple thin layers, allowing for smooth transitions and a detailed finish.
Personal Style: Remember, this guide is a base. Feel free to adjust and experiment according to your style.
Video Two: How to Paint the Shield Shine and NMM Trim
Paints and Materials Used
Paints
Vallejo Paints:
Black
German Grey
Neutral Grey
Ice Yellow
White
Games Workshop Paints:
Mournfang Brown
Brushes
Size 00 Brush: Ideal for detailed work and fine textures. Used for most of the work including the shine and trim.
Size 2 Brush: Used for broader strokes and glazing, especially over larger areas.
Other Materials
Wet Palette: To keep the paints moist and workable.
Lamp: For observing how natural light falls on the model, crucial for accurate highlight placement.
Blu Tack or Similar Adhesive: To temporarily attach the shield to the model for correct angle assessment.
Step-by-Step Guide
Preparing the Palette
Setup Wet Palette: Prepare a wet palette with Vallejo Black, German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White, and Games Workshop Mournfang Brown. Create a gradient of grey shades from black to white, mixing in Ice Yellow and White with Neutral Grey for various mid-tones.
Painting the Shine
Analyzing Light Direction: Position the model under a lamp to observe natural light fall. This will guide the placement of the shine.
Initial Highlights: Start with a Neutral Grey or a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey to block in the primary highlight areas on the shield.
Building Up Layers: Gradually increase the brightness of the highlights, focusing on the top left as the primary light source. Remember, the paint will appear brighter when wet and duller when dry.
Textured Effect: Use scratchy and stipple brushstrokes with minimal paint for a textured shine effect. Use the very tip of your brush.
Bounce Highlight: Add a bounce highlight at the bottom of the shield, reflecting light from the ground. This should be less bright than the primary highlight. Use a watered-down Mournfang Brown for a glaze over this area.
Painting the NMM Trim
Blocking in Highlights: Use Neutral Grey to block in primary highlights on the trim, focusing on the top area.
Adding Variation: Create a variety of light grey blocks along the trim, ensuring they get darker and more spaced out as they move away from the top highlight.
Refining Highlights: Gradually add lighter tones, culminating in white for the brightest parts. Ensure these highlights align with the shield’s central highlight.
Detailing Scratches: Use white to pick out tiny dots on sculpted scratches for added realism and depth.
Bounce Highlight on Trim: Similar to the shield, add a less intense bounce highlight at the bottom of the trim.
Final Touches
Glazing: Apply a thin glaze of Mournfang Brown over certain areas for colour integration and smooth transitions.
Detail Checks: Make any necessary adjustments to neaten the highlights and ensure consistency in lighting and texture across the shield and trim.
Important Notes
Consistency and Control: Maintain a good balance in paint consistency – not too thick for opaque marks and not too watery to avoid spreading.
Brush Technique: Always pull the brush towards yourself for control and precision, especially important when working near the freehand area.
Learning and Experimentation: Remember, this technique is both challenging and rewarding. Don’t be afraid to experiment and learn from the process.
These guides should provide a clear roadmap to achieving a high-standard finish for your freehand on shields, suitable for display or competition. Remember, practice and patience are key to mastering these techniques and don’t be afraid to do your own thing and add your own personal touch or style to your freehand!
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This video shows how to paint a NMM Axe belonging to the Chaos Champion from the Slaves to Darkness army box. The axe head is painted in NMM steel to a display level standard with coloured reflections. The trim of the axe is painted in NMM Gold.
Video: How to Paint a NMM Axe
Materials:
Paints: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Barroth Blue (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3)
Fine detail paintbrushes
Wet palette (optional, but recommended)
Steps for NMM Steel Effect on the Axe Blade:
Base Colour: Start with Neutral Grey. Block in the areas where you anticipate highlights, but don’t worry about precision at this stage. This step is about mapping out your light and dark areas.
Adding Reflections: Employ a ‘Sky Earth’ technique, but avoid a mirror-like chrome finish. Instead, aim for a less reflective surface with smoother transitions. This will differ from the steel look on the armour.
Colour Integration: On downward-facing surfaces, integrate a bit of Mournfang Brown into your Neutral Grey. For the top of the blade, use a lighter mix, incorporating a bit of Ice Yellow into Neutral Grey.
Brightness and Shadows: Apply Barroth Blue to represent the sky’s reflection. It should be brighter but not overly stark. Add Rhinox Hide to darken and desaturate certain areas, especially on downward curves.
Blending and Transition: Focus on blending your colours. Use a stippling or cross-hatching technique to create smooth transitions between the different tones. Pay attention to the balance between the bright and dark areas to maintain the metallic effect.
Final Highlights: For the brightest points, use Morrow White, especially on the uppermost curves and edges. This step is crucial for selling the metallic effect. Remember to keep these highlights sharp and focused.
Steps for NMM Gold Effect on the Axe Trim:
Base Coat: Start with XV-88. Outline the areas you want to appear as gold. This will be the foundation for your gold effect.
Layering: Gradually build up layers with Balor Brown, focusing on areas that would naturally catch more light. Be mindful of the shape and texture of the trim.
Adding Highlights: Use Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights on the gold sections. Apply it sparingly to the most prominent areas, like the edges and raised details.
Refining Details: Introduce Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide in the darker areas for deeper shadows, creating contrast and depth.
Final Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest spots on the gold trim, emphasizing the highest points of light reflection. This will enhance the metallic illusion.
Key Tips:
Brush Control: Use the tip of your brush for precision. The quality of your lines and blending directly impacts the realism of the NMM effect.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure that the light source is consistent across the model. This affects where you place highlights and shadows.
Patience and Layers: NMM is about building up layers gradually. Work slowly and allow layers to dry before applying the next.
Blending: Smooth transitions between colours are vital. Practice stippling and glazing techniques for seamless blends.
Reflections and Realism: Study how light interacts with metallic surfaces. Incorporate reflected colours and environments subtly into your NMM work for added realism.
Explore my latest tutorials
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These videos show how to paint the the Chaos Champion from the Slaves to Darkness army box that Games Workshop sent me, with full paints list and detailed step by steps. This guide is a part of a series focusing on non-metallic metal (NMM) armour, NMM gold, and a large animal skull, using a variety of paints including Games Workshop and Vallejo colours. The second video where we paint his NMM axe can be found below the first.
Video: How to Paint the Chaos Champion
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Vallejo Heavy Grey
Games Workshop Barroth Blue
Games Workshop XV-88
Games Workshop Balor Brown
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown
Vallejo Ice Yellow
P3 Morrow White
Vallejo Neutral Grey
Vallejo Model Color Black
Games Workshop Elysium Green (optional)
Size 00 and Size 1 brushes
Wet palette
Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint the Chaos Champion:
Step 1: Base Coat the Armour
Apply Vallejo Heavy Grey across all armour panels. This colour isn’t a plain grey but has a greenish, olive drab tone, adding a subtle hint of colour to the model.
Step 2: Detailed Armour Painting
Begin with a haphazard application of Heavy Grey, ensuring not to fill the recesses excessively.
For the first highlight, mix Heavy Grey and Barroth Blue in a 50/50 ratio. Apply this carefully, focusing on stippling and scratchy textures.
Progressively add more Barroth Blue to the mix for subsequent highlights.
The final highlight uses P3 Morrow White, applied sparingly on the most prominent parts.
Step 3: Non-Metallic Gold Trim
Start with a base coat of Games Workshop XV-88.
Apply Balor Brown, followed by Ice Yellow for highlights.
Use Vallejo Neutral Grey for lower bounce highlights.
Focus on creating high contrasts on sharp edges and subtle curves to mimic metallic shine.
Step 4: Painting the Skull
Base the skull with Games Workshop XV-88.
Add texture using Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, focusing on stippling to create a bone-like appearance.
Use Games Workshop Screaming Skull for higher highlights.
Finish with a glaze of Vallejo Neutral Grey to soften contrasts.
Step 5: Horns and Details
Paint the horns starting with Mournfang Brown, transitioning to Rhinox Hide, and finishing with black towards the tips.
Apply small highlights of Balor Brown and then white at the tips for a shiny effect.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Continuously refine the armour’s highlights, focusing on light direction and texture.
Use stippling techniques for texture on the skull and bones.
Ensure all parts of the model, including edges and recesses, are neatly finished.
Video: How to Paint the Chaos Champion NMM Axe
Materials:
Paints: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Barroth Blue (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3)
Fine detail paintbrushes
Wet palette (optional, but recommended)
Steps for NMM Steel Effect on the Axe Blade:
Base Colour: Start with Neutral Grey. Block in the areas where you anticipate highlights, but don’t worry about precision at this stage. This step is about mapping out your light and dark areas.
Adding Reflections: Employ a ‘Sky Earth’ technique, but avoid a mirror-like chrome finish. Instead, aim for a less reflective surface with smoother transitions. This will differ from the steel look on the armour.
Colour Integration: On downward-facing surfaces, integrate a bit of Mournfang Brown into your Neutral Grey. For the top of the blade, use a lighter mix, incorporating a bit of Ice Yellow into Neutral Grey.
Brightness and Shadows: Apply Barroth Blue to represent the sky’s reflection. It should be brighter but not overly stark. Add Rhinox Hide to darken and desaturate certain areas, especially on downward curves.
Blending and Transition: Focus on blending your colours. Use a stippling or cross-hatching technique to create smooth transitions between the different tones. Pay attention to the balance between the bright and dark areas to maintain the metallic effect.
Final Highlights: For the brightest points, use Morrow White, especially on the uppermost curves and edges. This step is crucial for selling the metallic effect. Remember to keep these highlights sharp and focused.
Steps for NMM Gold Effect on the Axe Trim:
Base Coat: Start with XV-88. Outline the areas you want to appear as gold. This will be the foundation for your gold effect.
Layering: Gradually build up layers with Balor Brown, focusing on areas that would naturally catch more light. Be mindful of the shape and texture of the trim.
Adding Highlights: Use Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights on the gold sections. Apply it sparingly to the most prominent areas, like the edges and raised details.
Refining Details: Introduce Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide in the darker areas for deeper shadows, creating contrast and depth.
Final Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest spots on the gold trim, emphasizing the highest points of light reflection. This will enhance the metallic illusion.
Key Tips:
Brush Control: Use the tip of your brush for precision. The quality of your lines and blending directly impacts the realism of the NMM effect.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure that the light source is consistent across the model. This affects where you place highlights and shadows.
Patience and Layers: NMM is about building up layers gradually. Work slowly and allow layers to dry before applying the next.
Blending: Smooth transitions between colours are vital. Practice stippling and glazing techniques for seamless blends.
Reflections and Realism: Study how light interacts with metallic surfaces. Incorporate reflected colours and environments subtly into your NMM work for added realism.
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These videos show you how to paint a Sons of Velmorn Skeleton from the Sons of Velmorn warband, which comes in the new Warhammer Underworlds Gnarlwood box that Games Workshop sent me.
Video – How to Paint a Sons of Velmorn Skeleton Part One
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints and Materials
Brushes: A size 2 brush for most painting and a smaller brush for details.
Paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Troll Slayer Orange, Firedragon Bright, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green, Dryad Bark (Games Workshop); German Grey (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3).
Step by Step Guide
Basecoat Armour: Start by base coating all metal areas with Dryad Bark. This unconventional start sets the stage for rusty, worn armour.
Mix Fabric Colour: Create a custom fabric colour by mixing Sybarite Green and German Grey. Adjust this mix to your preference – more grey for desaturation or pure green for vibrancy.
Apply Base Colours: Block in other base colours: Rhinox Hide for leather and wood parts, and Morghast Bone for skeletal areas. Don’t worry about perfect opacity; focus on coverage.
Rusty Effect: To achieve a rusty effect on the armour, mix a small amount of Mournfang Brown into the Dryad Bark, then add a bit of white to desaturate. Apply this mix to the armour, focusing on recesses and areas where rust would naturally accumulate.
Enhance Rust: Use straight Mournfang Brown, thinned with water, to intensify the rust effect, especially in recesses and dents.
Brighten Rust: Add Troll Slayer Orange and Firedragon Bright to certain rust areas for colour variation, keeping in mind how rust behaves in reality.
Non-Metallic Metal Highlights: Start highlighting the armour. Mix white into your base armour colour progressively, applying these lighter shades to raised areas and edges to simulate metallic reflection.
Detailing: Use the very tip of your brush for small highlights and scratches, particularly on the armour and blade. This step adds depth and realism to the rusty, worn metal effect.
White Highlights: Finally, use Morrow White for the brightest points on the armour. Be selective and minimal with white to maintain focus and contrast.
Finish Up: Conclude by refining highlights and ensuring a smooth transition between shades.
Additional Tips
Rust Placement: Apply rust thoughtfully, considering where it would naturally form and accumulate.
Highlighting Technique: Combine stippling and precise brushwork for a realistic, weathered look.
Focus on Key Areas: Spend more time on prominent areas like the helmet and chest for better visual impact.
Maintain Brush Control: Regularly adjust your brush’s load to avoid unwanted paint marks.
Balance Realism and Style: Choose your rust and highlight placement for both aesthetic appeal and realism.
Video – How to Paint a Sons of Velmorn Skeleton Part Two
Paints and Materials
Paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Troll Slayer Orange, Firedragon Bright, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green, Dryad Bark (Games Workshop); German Grey (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3).
Brushes: A size 2 brush for larger areas and a finer brush for details.
Step by Step Guide
Fabric Highlights:
Mix Sybarite Green, German Grey, and a bit of Morrow White.
Apply the mix to the fabric, focusing on smooth transitions. Use a larger brush for fewer brush strokes.
Multiple thin layers are needed. Add a small amount of white for each layer, focusing on the most illuminated areas.
Bone Details:
The bone areas are detailed and require precision. Consider using a smaller brush.
Highlight the raised areas and sculpted details, like elbow joints and knuckles.
For the face, accentuate teeth more than other bone parts for contrast.
Leather and Wood:
Start with Rhinox Hide, then apply Mournfang Brown, focusing on the upper edges.
Mix in Cadian Flesh Tone with Mournfang Brown for subsequent highlights, concentrating on the top edge and creating creases.
For the wood, after Mournfang Brown, use Balor Brown with Neutral Grey for desaturation. Highlight raised grain details.
Non-Metallic Gold:
Basecoat with XV-88.
Mix XV-88 with Ice Yellow for highlights.
Accentuate the brightest spots with a mixture of Ice Yellow and White.
Weathering Fabric:
Use heavily watered-down Rhinox Hide to create dirt and stains on the fabric.
Apply in thin layers, allowing each to dry before adding more. Focus on areas that would naturally gather dirt.
Painting the Skirt:
Base the skirt with Dark Grey or German Grey.
Add White progressively for highlights, concentrating on the curves and upper areas.
Use Rhinox Hide for weathering, similar to the green fabric.
Finishing Touches:
Add fine details like bone texture, teeth, and small crevices.
For the base, a simple grey stone effect with highlights works well.
Additional Tips
Brush Choice: Use larger brushes for broad areas and smaller ones for detailed work. I used the Artist Opus range of brushes, but any high-quality brush is good.
Weathering: Weathering can mask imperfections and add realism.
Balance of Colours: Ensure the fabric and armour contrast in cleanliness and texture.
Attention to Details: Small details like teeth or bone texture can significantly enhance the model’s appearance.
Lighting Consistency: Ensure your highlights are consistent with the light source direction established across the model.
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These videos show how to paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn Warrior (space dwarfs/squats), which were sent to me by Games Workshop.
Video Part One – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn WarriorVideo Part Two – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn WarriorPaints UsedPreparation and Base CoatingFace Mask and ArmourTrousers and BootsAdditional Details and WeatheringFinal Touches
Video Part One – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn Warrior
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Video Part Two – How to Paint Leagues of Votann Hearthkyn Warrior
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Sotek Green, Warpstone Glow, Yriel Yellow, XV-88, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Troll Slayer Orange, Fire Dragon Bright, Deathworld Forest, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Dark Grey, Ice Yellow
P3: Morrow White
Preparation and Base Coating
Model Assembly: Assemble your model, ensuring arms and weapons are separated for easier painting.
Priming: Apply a black primer evenly across the model. This will serve as your base for all subsequent layers.
Face Mask and Armour
Base Layer: Begin with ‘Rhinox Hide’ for the face mask, focusing on the left-hand side to simulate light direction. For the armour, start with ‘Sotek Green’, applying the paint loosely to create texture.
Highlighting Technique: Use a lamp to identify where the main highlights should be, focusing on the upper left side of the model. This will help simulate directional lighting.
Layering Armour: Build up the armour’s colour using layers of ‘Sotek Green’, ‘Ahriman Blue’, and ‘Temple Guard Blue’. For the final highlights, mix ‘Ice Yellow’ with ‘Temple Guard Blue’.
Detailing Face Mask: Use ‘Balor Brown’ and ‘Ice Yellow’ for detailing, especially on the top left side for highlights.
Trousers and Boots
Base Coat: Start with a black or dark grey base coat for the trousers.
Highlights: Gradually build highlights on the trousers using a mix of the base colour and ‘Ice Yellow’. Keep the highlights subtle to maintain the focus on the upper part of the model.
Additional Details and Weathering
Boots and Lower Details: Use a similar technique as the trousers for the boots, focusing on subtle highlights.
Weathering: Apply ‘Mournfang Brown’ to create a worn, weathered look on the armour. Focus on recesses and edges to simulate natural wear and tear.
Final Touches
Refining Highlights: Go back to the armour and face mask, refining highlights where necessary. This is the stage to perfect your light direction and ensure consistency across the model.
Completing the Base: Paint the base to complement the model. A simple, unobtrusive design ensures the focus remains on the warrior.
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These videos show how to paint Cado Ezechiar, one of the vampire models from Games Workshop. He was painted as a part of my Golden Demon entry for 2024!
There are a lot of fun techniques I used on Cado, from his pitted, slightly worn armour, to his cloth undershirt, cape and some weathered leather. Read on to explore the tutorials in order, or click below to explore each part.
Video Part One – Armour and Red ClothPaints UsedPreparationBlocking in ColoursPainting the ArmourEnhancing Texture and ColourVideo Part Two – Leather Belt and Pouch, the NMM Gold Dragon on his chest and his Black Cape with WeatheringPaints UsedStep-by-Step GuideLeather DetailsNMM Gold DragonBlack CapeVideo Part Three – How to Paint a Vampire HeadMaterials ListHow to Paint a Vampire Head Painting GuidePreparationBase CoatingLayering and DetailingAdditional TipsVideo Part Four – How to Paint his Cracked Leather ScabbardMaterials and PaintsStep by Step Guide to Paint a Cracked Leather ScabbardLeather Technique TipsVideos Not Showing?
Video Part One – Armour and Red Cloth
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Corvus Black Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German GreyP3: Morrow White
Preparation
Priming: The model should already be primed black. Imperfections in the primer’s coverage are not a concern, as all surfaces will be covered with paint.
Blocking in Colours
Base Coating: Start by blocking in base colours for efficiency and to prevent having to meticulously paint near completed areas later. Use Rhinox Hide for leather parts and German Grey (or a dark grey made by mixing black and white) for armour sections. This step is about laying down foundational colours and reacquainting yourself with the painting process.
Painting the Armour
Initial Armour Layer: Apply a base layer of German Grey across all armour parts. This step establishes a dark base for building up the texture and highlights that will follow.
Adding Texture and Base Highlights: Switch to Neutral Grey to begin adding texture and lighting effects to the armour. This involves creating scratch-like marks to simulate corrosion and wear, enhancing the model’s detailed sculpting. A size 00 brush is recommended for fine control and detail work.
Building Highlights: Gradually lighten the armour by adding more Neutral Grey, and then lighten further by mixing in Ice Yellow with Neutral Grey. The goal is to create a gradient of highlights leading to the brightest points of the armour. The addition of Ice Yellow introduces warmth to the grey, adding visual interest.
Final Highlights: Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights. Apply this sparingly to the most raised areas and points where light would naturally be the strongest. The white should be watered down significantly to ensure a smooth application.
Enhancing Texture and Colour
Glazing for Depth: Mix a glaze using Mournfang Brown and apply it to shadow areas and recesses to add depth and warmth to the armour. Follow up with Corvus Black for deepening the shadows further. These glazes help unify the texture and add complexity to the finish.
Adjustments and Finishing Touches: Continuously assess the model as you paint, especially when transitioning between different sections or colours. Ensure that the lighting and colours are cohesive across the model to maintain the unit’s unified appearance.
Video Part Two – Leather Belt and Pouch, the NMM Gold Dragon on his chest and his Black Cape with Weathering
Paints Used
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Fire Dragon Bright, XV-88, Balor Brown Vallejo: Dark Grey, Ice Yellow
Step-by-Step Guide
Leather Details
Base Coat: Start with Rhinox Hide as the base for all leather parts, which was applied in the previous painting session.
Initial Highlights: Using Mournfang Brown, begin blocking in the details on the belt and pouch using a size 00 brush. Focus on applying the paint with the tip of the brush, even when filling larger areas, to maintain precision and control.
Adding Texture: With the same brush, enhance the leather texture by applying additional highlights with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and Fire Dragon Bright. The Fire Dragon Bright will lighten the colour but may also increase the paint’s translucency, requiring multiple layers for full opacity.
Further Highlights: Introduce Ice Yellow into the mix for the next set of highlights, focusing on the most illuminated areas like the top of the pouch and the sides of the belt that are exposed to light. Use a delicate touch to add fine details and texture, simulating the natural wear and tear on the leather.
NMM Gold Dragon
Base Layer: Use XV-88 as your base colour for the dragon emblem. Carefully outline the shape, leaving black lines between the details to create depth and contrast.
Building Up Colour: Gradually add Balor Brown to the XV-88, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit the emblem. Consider the curvature and form of the dragon to place your highlights thoughtfully, enhancing the 3D effect.
Final Highlights: Mix in Ice Yellow with your base colours to brighten the highest points of the emblem. Apply these highlights sparingly to areas like the brow, nose tip, and the edges of the dragon heads to achieve a metallic shine. Optionally, add a dot of pure white at the very brightest points for maximum impact.
Black Cape
Initial Layering: Prime the cape black and then apply Vallejo Dark Grey, thinned with water (approximately 60% water to 40% paint), to start building up the layers. Aim for smooth, gradual transitions, focusing on the creases and raised areas of the cape.
Highlighting: Incrementally mix Ice Yellow into the Dark Grey for the highlights. Apply these to the edges and folds of the cape where the light naturally hits, ensuring that the highlights are concentrated towards the top of the folds to emphasise the flow and texture of the fabric.
Weathering: Using Rhinox Hide, begin stippling the lower edges of the cape to simulate mud and grime build-up. Progressively add Mournfang Brown and then Balor Brown into your mix, focusing the lighter, more detailed stippling towards the very bottom to create a realistic weathered effect. Avoid making this look too uniform; natural wear and variety in the marks will enhance the realism.
Video Part Three – How to Paint a Vampire Head
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials List
Paints:
Games Workshop: Cadian Fleshtone, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet
Vallejo: Neutral Grey, German Grey
P3: Morrow White (or any white paint)
Brushes:
Size 2 Round Brush (for broad applications)
Size 00 Round Brush (for detailed work)
Other Materials:
Wet Palette (to keep paints moist and workable)
Water Pot (for cleaning brushes)
Mixing Palette (for mixing custom paint shades)
Blue Tack (for temporarily attaching components)
Metal Rod (for holding the model while painting)
Super Glue (for assembly adjustments)
How to Paint a Vampire Head Painting Guide
Preparation
Modify and Assemble: Modify the hair of the model to prevent it from touching the face, allowing for easier access when painting. This involves careful cutting, reattaching, and positioning of the hair components.
Priming: Prime the model with a neutral primer to ensure paint adhesion and colour accuracy.
Base Coating
Apply Base Colours: Begin with a base coat of Cadian Fleshtone for the skin, applying it thinly (around a 1.5:1 ratio of water to paint) using a size 2 brush for a smooth layer. For the hair, use Neutral Grey as the base.
Layering and Detailing
Layering: Employ both a size 2 brush for general work and a 00 brush for fine details. Gradually build up the skin tones, focusing on creating dramatic lighting by highlighting facial features and leaving recesses darker. Mix Cadian Fleshtone with white for various highlight shades.
Eyes and Teeth Detailing: For the eyes, utilise Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for a glowing effect. For the teeth, mix Cadian Fleshtone with white to achieve a natural bone colour, steering clear of pure white to maintain realism.
Hair: Paint the hair in layers, starting with Neutral Grey, then adding white for highlights. Adjust shading and highlighting to reflect texture and colour accurately.
Shadows and Highlights: Use German Grey for deep shadows to add depth, especially around the eyes and under facial features. Use mixtures of Cadian Fleshtone with white and grey to refine the face’s appearance, enhancing the transition from light to shadow.
Final Touches: Add fine highlights with a mix of the lightest skin tone and a bit of white, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Use a fine brush for precision, ensuring smooth transitions between light and dark areas.
Additional Tips
Brush Care: Always wet your brush before starting to paint, even if it appears clean, to ensure smooth paint flow.
Lighting Effects: When painting, consider how light interacts with the model’s features. This helps in achieving a more natural and realistic appearance, even with dramatic lighting.
Colour Mixing: Don’t be limited by paint names. Understand that all paints are just colours, and creative mixing can achieve the desired effect, such as using skin tone mixes for teeth to avoid too stark a contrast.
Video Part Four – How to Paint his Cracked Leather Scabbard
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow!
Materials and Paints
Paints:
Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) – A dark brown paint used as the base color for the leather.
Bugman’s Glow (Games Workshop) – A flesh-toned paint used for creating mid-tones and highlights on the leather.
White (P3 Morrow White) – Used for mixing with Bugman’s Glow to create lighter shades for finer highlights.
Brushes:
Fine Detail Brush – A high-quality, fine-tipped brush, such as a size 0 or 00, is essential for painting the very fine lines that simulate the cracks in the leather. The brush used in the video is my favourite, the size 00 Artis Opus brush.
Additional Materials:
Water – For thinning the paints. The consistency of the paint should be around 50% water to 50% paint, with a slight adjustment for environmental factors like heat.
Wet Palette – To keep the paints hydrated and workable for longer periods. It’s particularly useful for mixing and maintaining the consistency of thinned paints.
Kitchen Roll or Paper Towel – Used for dabbing the brush to remove excess paint or water. It’s important to change the paper regularly to avoid degradation and particles sticking to the brush.
Painting Handle or Holder (optional) – To comfortably hold and manipulate the model while painting. I use Rathcore painting handles.
Step by Step Guide to Paint a Cracked Leather Scabbard
1. Preparation:
Ensure the scabbard on the model (in this case, Cado Ezechiar) is clean and ready for painting.
2. Base Coat:
Start by covering the entire scabbard area with Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop). Apply a couple of coats for even coverage but don’t worry about perfect opacity.
3. Mixing Paints:
Prepare your palette with a progression of mixes:
Rhinox Hide mixed with a small amount of Bugman’s Glow (GW).
Pure Bugman’s Glow, thinned slightly with water.
Bugman’s Glow mixed with a small amount of white (P3 Morrow White), and then a mix with more white added.
4. Detailing with a Fine Brush:
Use a thin brush, like a size 0 or 00, ensuring it has a very sharp tip for fine detailing.
Begin with the Rhinox Hide and Bugman’s Glow mix. Paint very fine, wiggly lines across the scabbard, simulating cracks in the leather. The lines should be more concentrated on the left side where the light hits, but include some on the right side too.
Turn the model as needed for comfort and accuracy but check the marks in the correct orientation to ensure they look natural.
Remember, the paint consistency should be about 50:50 water to paint, perhaps slightly more water for better flow.
5. Building Highlights:
Progress to using straight Bugman’s Glow. Go over some of the previous lines and add new ones. Ensure that some of the initial finer lines remain visible beneath.
Focus on making the edges and areas with supposed more wear brighter.
You can create deeper scratches by painting over the previous lines, adding detail and depth.
6. Correcting and Enhancing:
If any lines are too thick or dense, use Rhinox Hide to adjust them. You can also enhance them by extending the lines and creating additional features.
Remember, each line or mark should be distinct and avoid uniform patterns.
7. Final Highlights:
Use the mix of Bugman’s Glow and white for the brightest highlights. Apply these sparingly and focus on making them as small and fine as possible.
Adjust the intensity of your highlights by removing excess paint from the brush before application.
8. Glazing for Depth:
To bring the whole effect together and add depth, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown (GW) over the entire area. This step also helps soften the texture and make it more refined.
You can go back with Rhinox Hide into darker recesses if needed, to adjust the contrast and depth.
9. Final Touches:
Add more detail and glaze as needed to achieve the desired depth and realism in the leather texture. Be mindful of over-glazing, which can dilute the detail work.
10. Review and Adjust:
Continuously review your work and adjust as necessary to ensure a realistic and varied leather texture. Each step can be refined or corrected to achieve the desired effect.
Leather Technique Tips
Consistency in paint mixture is crucial for achieving the fine lines necessary for the cracked leather effect.
Regularly maintaining the brush’s fine tip is essential for detailed work.
Turning the model upside down can facilitate easier brush strokes, but always check the work in its correct orientation.
Glazing with thinned paint helps unify the painted area and add depth to the texture.
Remember, the key to this technique is patience and precision. The fine details make the difference, so take your time with each step to achieve a convincing cracked leather effect.
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In this guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists!
Paints and Materials
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownP3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00, Small Drybrush
Step-by-Step Guide
Want more? Download the detailed PDF guide!
If you’ve enjoyed the video and want to take your painting to the next level, don’t forget to download the accompanying PDF guide. This extra resource provides step-by-step instructions, close-up insights, and useful tips to help you perfect the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold technique on Rogal Dorn’s armour. Whether you’re watching the video or painting at your own pace, the guide is here to ensure you achieve the best results.
Download the PDF Guide and master the art of NMM gold!
Read Now
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