How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour – Vampire Mount

Video: How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour – Vampire Mount

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Paints and Materials Used

Games Workshop:

XV-88
Mournfang Brown

AK Interactive:

Burnt Red
Golden Brown
Pastel Peach
Ice Yellow
Deep Orange

Two Thin Coats:

Dark Sun Yellow

Brushes:

Size 1 and Size 4 (Artis Opus preferred)

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Preparation

Assemble the model in sub-assemblies. In this case, the rider and head are painted separately.
Prime the model as normal. The armour will be our focus area, specifically on the horse’s chest for this tutorial.

2. Base Colour

Start by applying a solid coat of AK Burnt Red over all the armour sections to act as your base tone. This sets the underlying richness and warmth for the NMM gold effect.

3. Rough Highlight Placement

Use a size 1 or 4 brush to apply scratchy, broken strokes of XV-88. Keep it random and avoid patterned hatching – the goal is to build subtle texture.
Don’t refine this too much at this stage. You’re laying down rough shapes to act as guideposts for future layers.

4. Midtone Highlights

Add AK Golden Brown to the previous highlights, still using scratchy marks. This begins to lift the light volumes and introduce warmth.
Work in large volumes rather than tiny lines – these layers will show through later and act as glow beneath the higher highlights.

5. Bright Highlights

Introduce AK Pastel Peach and then AK Ice Yellow, again with small, sharp strokes in the brightest spots.
These tones help simulate the metallic shine. Don’t overdo it – keep the brightest areas concentrated and refined later.

6. Orange Reflective Tones

Mix Mournfang Brown with AK Deep Orange to create a warm orange for upward-facing surfaces.
This simulates bounce light where golden sections reflect on each other.
You can vary this by mixing in Dark Sun Yellow to adjust saturation.

7. Fine Detailing

Continue layering scratches and stippling with decreasing highlight size as the tones get brighter.
Work toward your brightest shine, then blend backwards using intermediary tones to soften the transition.

8. Light Placement & Golden Angle

Hold the model at your intended display angle (“golden angle”) and sketch in the main highlight shapes accordingly.
Map light sources based on this viewpoint. Once that’s established, rotate and adjust other sides for balance and consistency.

9. Glazing and Smoothing

Create a thin glaze (7–8 parts water to 1 part paint) using AK Burnt Red to tone down harsh transitions and enrich the red shadows.
Apply gently over midtones and shadow areas to unify the colour and reduce any chalkiness.

Pro Tip: Avoid using the burnt red glaze over light highlights like Ice Yellow – it will dull them and make them muddy.

10. Optional Glazing for Highlights

If needed, glaze Ice Yellow (very diluted, ~5:1 water to paint) over highlight spots to soften texture and enhance the finish.
For slightly more satin finish, Golden Brown or Sand Yellow (if available) can work beautifully.

Final Notes on How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour

Non-metallic metal is all about contrast and placement. Keep checking the model under a lamp to evaluate your lighting decisions.
This method intentionally preserves texture and visual noise with the scratchy method – refined blending comes after the brightest highlights are in place.
Don’t panic if early stages look rough – that’s part of the process. Every layer adds complexity and realism.

NMM

How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour – Vampire Mount

In this first part of the tutorial, we’re tackling the red-gold armour on the vampire’s mount. This section covers light placement, colour layering, and blending techniques, all using a controlled, scratchy-brush NMM approach. While the model is eventually intended for a Golden Demon entry, the process is adaptable for any painter looking to explore rich, atmospheric NMM. Video: How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour – Vampire Mount Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop: XV-88 Mournfang Brown AK Interactive: Burnt Red Golden Brown Pastel Peach Ice Yellow Deep Orange Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Brushes: Size 1 and Size 4 (Artis Opus preferred) Step-by-Step Guide 1. Preparation Assemble the model in sub-assemblies. In this case, the rider and head are painted separately. Prime the model as normal. The armour will be our focus area, specifically on the horse’s chest for this tutorial. 2. Base Colour Start by applying a solid coat of AK Burnt Red over all the armour sections to act as your base tone. This sets the underlying richness and warmth for the NMM gold effect. 3. Rough Highlight Placement Use a size 1 or 4 brush to apply scratchy, broken strokes of XV-88. Keep it random and avoid patterned hatching – the goal is to build subtle texture. Don’t refine this too much at this stage. You’re laying down rough shapes to act as guideposts for future layers. 4. Midtone Highlights Add AK Golden Brown to the previous highlights, still using scratchy marks. This begins to lift the light volumes and introduce warmth. Work in large volumes rather than tiny lines – these layers will show through later and act as glow beneath the higher highlights. 5. Bright Highlights Introduce AK Pastel Peach and then AK Ice Yellow, again with small, sharp strokes in the brightest spots. These tones help simulate the metallic shine. Don’t overdo it – keep the brightest areas concentrated and refined later. 6. Orange Reflective Tones Mix Mournfang Brown with AK Deep Orange to create a warm orange for upward-facing surfaces. This simulates bounce light where golden sections reflect on each other. You can vary this by mixing in Dark Sun Yellow to adjust saturation. 7. Fine Detailing Continue layering scratches and stippling with decreasing highlight size as the tones get brighter. Work toward your brightest shine, then blend backwards using intermediary tones to soften the transition. 8. Light Placement & Golden Angle Hold the model at your intended display angle (“golden angle”) and sketch in the main highlight shapes accordingly. Map light sources based on this viewpoint. Once that’s established, rotate and adjust other sides for balance and consistency. 9. Glazing and Smoothing Create a thin glaze (7–8 parts water to 1 part paint) using AK Burnt Red to tone down harsh transitions and enrich the red shadows. Apply gently over midtones and shadow areas to unify the colour and reduce any chalkiness. Pro Tip: Avoid using the burnt red glaze over light highlights like Ice Yellow – it will dull them and make them muddy. 10. Optional Glazing for Highlights If needed, glaze Ice Yellow (very diluted, ~5:1 water to paint) over highlight spots to soften texture and enhance the finish. For slightly more satin finish, Golden Brown or Sand Yellow (if available) can work beautifully. Final Notes on How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour Non-metallic metal is all about contrast and placement. Keep checking the model under a lamp to evaluate your lighting decisions. This method intentionally preserves texture and visual noise with the scratchy method – refined blending comes after the brightest highlights are in place. Don’t panic if early stages look rough – that’s part of the process. Every layer adds complexity and realism. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor

In this in-depth tutorial series on how to paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor, we explore every stage of bringing this grimdark preacher to life using rich tones, detailed brushwork, and careful light placement. In Part One, we cover the initial airbrush setup using Soch Green and AK Cork to establish shadow and light direction, followed by painting the fluffy cloak with soft transitions and organic texture. We then move on to the non-metallic trim and chest details, a glowing red hat, and the pallid, bruised skin of the face. Techniques include loose brushwork, careful glazing, and using a mix of AK Interactive, Vallejo, and Games Workshop paints to achieve smooth, high-contrast results. In Part Two, we focus on the intricate freehand work across the confessor’s robe tassels, featuring a full walkthrough on how to paint freehand skulls in miniature scale. You’ll learn how to sketch in your base shapes, build them up with layered bone tones, and add believable variation using light, shadow, and subtle brush marks. We also paint the surrounding red robes and non-metallic gold trim to frame the freehand work and tie it all together. Whether you’re tackling this model for a Kill Team display or looking to push your freehand and material rendering, this series offers a clear, methodical approach with plenty of tips. Video: How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor Paints & Materials Used Step-by-Step Guide Pre-Shading with the Airbrush Blocking Non-Metallic Areas Painting the Fluffy Cloak Glazing for Softness: Painting Non-Metallic Trim Painting the Face Painting the Red Hat and Robes Finishing Touches on the Trim & Symbols Pro Tips Video: How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor Part Two – Freehand Skulls, Robes and Trim Paints and Materials Used Step-by-Step Guide to the Freehand Skulls! Start with a Flat Black Base Block in the Skull Shapes Layering Skull Highlights Add Depth with Shadows Painting the Red Robes and Tassels Base and Highlight the Reds Smooth the Transitions Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim Build the Gold Application Tips Pro Tips Video: How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor Paints & Materials Used Airbrush Stage: AK Soch Green AK Cork Cloak Base & Highlights: Games Workshop Mournfang Brown Games Workshop Rhinox Hide Games Workshop Abaddon Black AK Morgas Bone AK Ice Yellow (or Vallejo Ice Yellow / similar) Non-Metallic Trim & Tubing: Vallejo Neutral Grey Vallejo Sky Grey Pastel Blue (AK or equivalent) White (for final highlights) Non-Metallic Gold: Games Workshop XV-88 Two Thin Coats Dune Yellow Two Thin Coats Sand Yellow Ice Yellow or Pastel Yellow Games Workshop Mournfang Brown (for shadow details) Face: Games Workshop Bugman’s Glow Pastel Blue AK Soch Green or AK Archaic Turquoise (for blue shading) Hat and Red Cloth: AK Matte Red AK Deep Red AK Cadmium Red AK Burnt Red Brushes: Artis Opus Size 4 Size 00 and Size 0 for precision work Step-by-Step Guide Pre-Shading with the Airbrush Start with the model assembled and primed. Use an airbrush to apply: AK Soch Green sprayed from below to simulate shadows. Then airbrush AK Cork as a zenithal highlight from above. This underpainting will act as a guide for light placement on the cloak and face, and helps build contrast for your non-metallic metal (NMM) later on. Blocking Non-Metallic Areas Use AK Black thinned down with water (around 1:2 paint to water) to loosely wash over all areas intended for NMM: Mace Tubing Hat trim Chest details This wash subtly darkens surfaces, enhancing later contrast without filling in recesses like Contrast paints do. Painting the Fluffy Cloak Start with Mournfang Brown, heavily thinned (about 1:1.5 paint to water). Use a large brush (Artis Opus Size 4) and drag the paint downwards toward shadow areas, leaving lighter areas around the upper shoulders and neck. Add Rhinox Hide in deeper recesses. Wet blend Mournfang Brown and Black into the base for richer shadows. Once dry, use AK Morgas Bone in a loose wet-brush or semi-drybrush manner to bring up texture. Introduce Ice Yellow for sharper highlights (especially effective for punchy warmth). Glazing for Softness: Glaze with Mournfang Brown (4:1 water to paint) to soften transitions. Repeat with AK Cork over highlighted areas to unify tones and bring back fluffiness. The cloak is sculpted with soft detail, so focus on slow transitions and avoid sharp contrasts. Painting Non-Metallic Trim Block in large highlight shapes with Vallejo Neutral Grey: Be generous—smaller areas will get eaten by later highlights. Layer up: Neutral Grey 50/50 Neutral Grey + Sky Grey Sky Grey Sky Grey + Pastel Blue Pastel Blue Small touches of pure White for bright points Use stippling, line work, and tiny marks to convey texture. For bounce light, glaze in AK Cork where fur reflects onto metal. Painting the Face Start with Bugman’s Glow, building it over the zenithal base. Mix Bugman’s Glow + Pastel Blue for highlights. For sharper highlights: increase Pastel Blue, or even use it pure (with care). For shadows: Thin AK Archaic Turquoise or Soch Green to a glaze (5:1 water to paint). Apply subtly to lower cheeks and jawline recesses. The cold blue tones contrast the warmth and give the Confessor a slightly sickly, dramatic look—perfect for grimdark flavour. Painting the Red Hat and Robes Block in all red areas using AK Matte Red. Highlights: AK Deep Red for first pass Cadmium Red on forward-facing areas Keep left side (as viewed) darker—highlight only with Deep Red Shadows: Use AK Burnt Red sparingly at the base and under folds For blending: Glaze Cadmium Red with Deep Red to smooth transitions Use a Size 4 brush for long, smooth blends Drag or stipple with Matte Red or Burnt Red as needed These are high-saturation reds, with minimal white or black added. Keep it punchy and rich. Finishing Touches on the Trim & Symbols Use the same NMM greys and yellows as before for: The Inquisition “I” symbols on the chest and hat Cable around the back of the head Add extra Mournfang Brown marks to simulate reflections on the flat “I” symbols where sculpted detail is minimal. He should now look a little more like this! Pro Tips Face placement matters: Your eye is naturally drawn here, so use fine dot highlights for lips, cheeks, and eyes. Avoid over-highlighting fur: It becomes too harsh and loses softness. Adjust bounce light colours to reflect nearby surfaces (e.g. cloak fur tone into hat trim). Test your colour jumps: On smaller surfaces, you can skip intermediate mixes for a faster finish. Use your lamp to guide highlight placement realistically, but tweak for scale. How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor – Part 2: Freehand Skulls, Robes & Trim This is Part 2 in a series for how to paint the Priest from the Blood and Zeal Kill Team box that Games Workshop kindly sent me as an early review copy. This stage focuses on freehand painting the skull tassels, followed by the rich red fabric and non-metallic gold trim. Video: How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor Part Two – Freehand Skulls, Robes and Trim Paints and Materials Used From Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Screaming Skull Rhinox Hide XV-88 From AK Interactive: Cork Black Burnt Red Matt Red Deep Red Cadmium Red Sand Yellow Pastel Yellow From Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Brushes: Artis Opus Size 4 (for large glazing and soft transitions) Artis Opus Size 00 (for freehand and edge detailing) Step-by-Step Guide to the Freehand Skulls! Start with a Flat Black Base Base the tassel area in AK Black to give you a blank slate. Mistakes are easy to correct by simply touching them up with more black—no colour-matching required. Block in the Skull Shapes Roughly sketch out skull shapes using AK Cork. Avoid going too small—larger blobs give you more room to define facial features. Scatter some angled or partial skulls for interest and depth. Layering Skull Highlights Use a mix of the following for highlights: Games Workshop Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and (sparingly) Screaming Skull. You can also mix Cork + Morghast Bone to create a smoother midtone. Don’t worry about lower jaws—just the upper structure and cheekbones to keep it readable. Add Depth with Shadows Use Mournfang Brown for mid-shadow tones and detailing. Deepen with Rhinox Hide in recessed areas. For small transitions, glaze with thinned Mournfang Brown or mix into Cork as needed. Painting the Red Robes and Tassels Base and Highlight the Reds Begin with AK Matt Red for midtones and highlight placement. Shadow the lower sections with AK Burnt Red. Highlight top edges and curves with AK Deep Red and a touch of AK Cadmium Red (tone back with Deep Red if needed). Smooth the Transitions Create a glaze from Burnt Red (approx. 3:1 water to paint). Use a large brush like a Size 4 to glaze over the transitions quickly and evenly. Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim Build the Gold Base the entire trim in Games Workshop XV-88. Layer up highlights using: Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow AK Sand Yellow Final accents with AK Pastel Yellow Application Tips Paint the gold with soft, rounded transitions—it’s fabric trim, not shiny metal. Use black linework if needed to separate the trim from your freehand work. Be careful when painting close to your skulls—a clean edge makes all the difference. Pro Tips Have a few ‘hero’ skulls. Make one or two full, detailed skulls to help the viewer instantly recognise the pattern. Be willing to repaint. The first skull in the video was completely redone because it threw off the balance—don’t be afraid to do the same. Use the zenithal highlight from Part 1. This helps guide your red robe shadows and light placement. Let it be asymmetric. Freehand doesn’t have to be perfect—variation adds visual interest and is much easier to paint. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord

In this tutorial, I’ll take you through how to paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord from the new Champions of Slaanesh army box, kindly sent to me as an early review copy by Games Workshop. The Emperor’s Children are infamous for their garish, opulent, and excessive aesthetics—making them great fun to paint. Video – How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord – Part One Step by Step – How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord Establishing the Base Layers Building Up the Armour Highlights Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Trim What is Glazing & How to Use It? What is Glazing? Glazing in This Tutorial How to Mix a Glaze Tips for Effective Glazing Refining the Face & Details Cloak & Fabric Elements Non-Metallic Gold on the Slaanesh Icon Video – How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord – Part Two Paints Used Non-Metallic Trim Highlights Armour Highlights Backpack Details Skin on Leg Metallic Studs Emperor’s Children Shoulder Symbol Video – How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord – Part One Step by Step – How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord Establishing the Base Layers To begin, I applied AK Violet Red and Emerald with a large brush, deliberately laying them down in a rough, loose fashion. These colours dry translucent, which allows the black primer to show through slightly—softening the intensity and creating a more natural undertone. While the initial result looks chaotic, it provides depth and variety that will later influence the armour’s highlights. This method also prevents the armour from feeling flat or overly clean, which is especially fitting for the decadent, chaotic aesthetic of the Emperor’s Children. Building Up the Armour Highlights For the iconic purple armour, I used a layered approach, mixing the following shades: Base Colour: Xereus Purple Mid-Tones: Xereus Purple + Emperor’s Children Highlights: Emperor’s Children → Emperor’s Children + AK Pastel Pink → AK Pastel Pink Rather than applying flat layers, I stippled and blended using a size 4 brush to establish soft transitions while keeping some texture. This technique ensures a more organic, high-contrast look, ideal for the dramatic shine seen on non-metallic armour. I also used glazing techniques with Xereus Purple to subtly shift the tone and unify different parts of the armour, ensuring colour harmony throughout the model. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Trim The intricate trim was painted using a non-metallic silver technique with the following colours: Base: Vallejo Neutral Grey Mid-Tone: AK Pale Grey Highlights: AK Pastel Blue To enhance realism, I avoided making the highlights too uniform. Instead, I varied the intensity in different areas, ensuring that the trim reacted naturally to imagined light sources. I also incorporated a subtle tint of Xereus Purple glaze to unify the trim with the armour, adding a subtle reflective colour shift. For finer details, I switched to a size 00 brush to carefully place sharp specular highlights on raised areas. What is Glazing & How to Use It? What is Glazing? Glazing is a technique where you use very thin, transparent layers of paint to subtly shift colour, create smooth blends, or enhance shadows and highlights. Unlike a wash (which settles into recesses), a glaze is carefully controlled to tint rather than fully cover the underlying layers. Glazing in This Tutorial In this video, I used glazing in a few key areas: Harmonising the Armour & Trim – I applied thin Xereus Purple glazes over the non-metallic trim to subtly reflect the armour’s colour, tying everything together. Deepening Shadows on the Cloak – I glazed with a mix of Xereus Purple + Wine Red (4:1 water-to-paint ratio) to push the shadows in fabric folds while keeping the overall colour rich. Refining the Gold NMM on the Slaanesh Icon – A light glaze of Xereus Purple over the mid-tones and shadows added depth and softened transitions. How to Mix a Glaze A good rule of thumb for glazing is a 4:1 or 5:1 water-to-paint ratio—but this depends on the pigment strength of the paint. If the glaze pools or streaks, it’s too wet; if it covers too opaquely, it’s too thick. Adjust accordingly! Tips for Effective Glazing Use a Damp Brush – After loading your brush, wick off excess paint on a paper towel to prevent flooding the surface. Let Layers Dry – Glazing is a slow-build technique. Let each layer dry before applying another, or you’ll lift the previous one. Work in Thin, Controlled Strokes – Apply in the direction of the blend, pulling towards the shadow or highlight you want to emphasise. Glaze Over Mistakes – If a highlight looks too stark or a shadow is too dark, a well-placed glaze can soften transitions and unify the surface. Refining the Face & Details The face of the Chaos Lord is one of the most important focal points. To ensure it stands out, I focused on creating precise highlights on the trim and facial details. One trick I often use is to place a tiny white dot on the forehead or high points of armour to push contrast. For the eye lenses, I wanted a muted, sinister glow rather than an overly bright finish. I painted them using: Base: AK Emerald Shadow: Xereus Purple (glazed into the upper edges) Highlight: AK Pastel Blue Shine Spot: A tiny dot of AK Pastel Blue at the upper left corner of the lens This layering creates a convincing sense of depth while keeping the colour scheme cohesive. Cloak & Fabric Elements For the cloak, I used a rich, desaturated red palette: Base: Wine Red + Xereus Purple Highlights: Wine Red → Magenta → Magenta + Pastel Pink I focused on building soft, blended transitions, making use of feathering and glazing techniques to create the illusion of light playing across the folds. To maintain realism and subtlety, I avoided taking the brightest highlights up to pure white, instead stopping at Pastel Pink. For added depth, I glazed in Xereus Purple at the shadows, enhancing the rich tones and adding variation to the overall red. Non-Metallic Gold on the Slaanesh Icon The Slaanesh icon clasp follows the same non-metallic metal principles but with a golden palette: Base: XV-88 Mid-Tone: Balor Brown Highlights: AK Sand Yellow → AK Pale Yellow To increase depth, I applied glazed Xereus Purple into the shadows, creating a satin-like richness. The brightest highlights were carefully placed to create a metallic gleam, but I avoided overusing pure white, as that would remove the golden warmth of the piece. Applying the base for the golden NMM. Video – How to Paint an Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord – Part Two In this detailed guide, we’ll continue painting the Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord. We’ll cover armour highlights, non-metallic metal trim, skin areas, metallic studs, and key techniques. Paints Used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Xereus Purple, Emperor’s Children, XV-88, Balor Brown, Cadian Fleshtone AK: Sand Yellow, Pastel Yellow, Pastel Blue, Pastel Pink, Sky Grey, Neutral Grey Vallejo: Neutral Grey Brushes: Artis Opus Size 4 and Size 00 Non-Metallic Trim Highlights Base: Vallejo Neutral Grey. Intermediate Highlight: Mix Vallejo Neutral Grey and AK Sky Grey (50:50). Apply as transitions. Final Highlights: AK Sky Grey and AK Pastel Blue. Contrast/Shading: Glaze Rhinox Hide into shadows and over highlight transitions to add depth and subtle colour. Bounce Highlights: Apply small bright reflections initially, then glaze Rhinox Hide (4:1 water:paint ratio) to soften and add warmth. Pro Tip: Use Size 4 for smooth blending and blocking; switch to Size 00 for fine details and precise stippling. Armour Highlights Base Colour: Mix Xereus Purple and Emperor’s Children (approx. 1:1). Mid Highlight: Pure Emperor’s Children. Top Highlight: Mix Emperor’s Children with AK Pastel Pink. Technique: Apply highlights using a stippling motion with a Size 4 brush for speed. For precision refinement, selectively use a Size 00 brush. Glazing: After highlighting, glaze Xereus Purple (4:1 water:paint ratio) from mid-tones into shadows for added richness. Pro Tip: Keep armour highlights subdued to avoid competing visually with the brighter trim highlights. Backpack Details Globes/Exhausts: Base with Neutral Grey. Highlight with Neutral Grey and Sky Grey mixture. Add brighter highlights sparingly with Sky Grey and minimal Pastel Blue. Keep less intense compared to head and chest areas. Flat Arms: Apply smoother transitions with more glazing to avoid flatness. Add scratches for texture. Incorporate Rhinox Hide for subtle colour and a weathered effect. Pro Tip: Use larger brushes for smoother, opaque highlights and smaller brushes for precise textures. Skin on Leg Base Colour: Mix Cadian Fleshtone with Xereus Purple to harmonise with overall colour scheme. Mid Highlight: Pure Cadian Fleshtone, applied gradually to areas catching most light. Top Highlight: Add a tiny amount of AK Pastel Pink to Cadian Fleshtone for brightest highlights. Technique: Block highlights first, then refine transitions by glazing back with the darker Cadian/Xereus mix. Glazing: Create a glaze (approx. 4:1 water:paint ratio) to smooth transitions. Pro Tip: Avoid using pure white; rely on pastel pink for natural-looking highlights. Metallic Studs Colours: Neutral Grey, Sky Grey, and Pastel Blue. Apply minimal transitions due to size limitations. Add bounce highlights using skin tones (Cadian/Xereus mix) on the lower-facing surfaces to reflect surrounding colour subtly. Pro Tip: Adjust highlight placement individually for realism—don’t highlight every stud identically. Emperor’s Children Shoulder Symbol Colours: XV-88, Balor Brown, Sand Yellow, Pastel Yellow (leaving hints of original base colour). Technique: Paint with primary viewing angle in mind rather than symbol-centred orientation. Edge Highlights: Use warmer colours like XV-88 and Balor Brown for definition, avoiding overly bright highlights. Pro Tip: Paint edge highlights carefully to separate symbol clearly from armour; add bounce highlights (optional purple-tinted highlights) for realism. This completes the second stage of painting your Emperor’s Children Chaos Lord. The final part will cover the gun, cloak, and backpack icon, providing additional refinement and finishing details. Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint an Aeldari Swooping Hawk

Hello, and welcome! In this guide, we’re diving into how to paint an Aeldari Swooping Hawk, one of the most elegant and iconic models in the Aeldari range. Whether you’re aiming for a display piece or simply want your tabletop army to stand out, this step-by-step walkthrough will help you bring your Swooping Hawk to life. We’ll be covering everything from achieving a glowing emerald armour finish to mastering non-metallic metal (NMM) wings and crafting a striking, high-contrast gun. I’ll also share tips on using light volumes, glazing techniques, and a few creative touches to make your model truly shine. Video: How to Paint an Aeldari Swooping Hawk Full Materials List for Painting a Swooping Hawk Paints Armour and Gun: AK Emerald (Basecoat and glaze) AK Sky Blue (Highlights) AK White (Final highlights) AK Anthracite Grey (Gun basecoat) AK Neutral Grey (Gun highlights) AK Black (Shading and darkest areas) Non-Metallic Gold (NMM) Wings: Games Workshop Mournfang Brown (Basecoat) AK Yellow Sand (Highlights) AK Ice Yellow (Mid to final highlights) Games Workshop Rhinox Hide (Dark reflections) AK Deep Orange (Warmth and edge reflections) AK White (Final sharp highlights) Two Thin Coats – Dark Sun Yellow Soul Stones and Gems: AK Wind Red (Basecoat) AK Ice Yellow (Reflections and light refraction) Brushes Artis Opus Size 1 Brush (Glazing, layering, and detail work) Artis Opus Size 2 Brush (Basecoats, larger surface glazing) Optional: Small Detail Brush (Size 0) (Tiny areas like gems or eyes, if needed) Tools Airbrush (For priming and applying the armour basecoat) Alternative: Large brush for applying thin coats of AK Emerald if an airbrush is unavailable. Fine Sandpaper or Scalpel (For removing imperfections like mould lines or texture issues) Wet Palette (For mixing and thinning paints) Hair Dryer (Optional: To speed up drying between layers) Blu Tack (To temporarily secure the head for painting) Additional Materials Primer: AK Black (For priming the entire model) Water: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes. Kitchen Roll or Towel: To remove excess paint from the brush when glazing. Step by Step Guide on How to Paint an Aeldari Swooping Hawk This guide walks you through painting a Swooping Hawk miniature, focusing on its armour, non-metallic metal (NMM) wings, and gun. 1. Preparation Assembly: Assemble the Swooping Hawk but avoid gluing the head. Instead, secure it temporarily with Blu Tack for easy painting. Priming: Prime the entire model with AK Black for a solid base. 2. Painting the Armour Basecoat: Use an airbrush to apply AK Emerald over the armour. If you don’t have an airbrush, apply multiple thin coats with a large brush for even coverage. First Highlights: Mix AK Sky Blue into AK Emerald in increasing proportions. Block in light volumes by painting large highlight areas where light naturally falls. Use thin layers (50% paint, 50% water) to build opacity while avoiding thick paint application. Successive Highlights: Continue mixing AK Sky Blue with AK Emerald, gradually increasing the brightness. Focus on smaller areas, leaving some of the previous highlights visible to create transitions. For the brightest spots, use pure AK Sky Blue, and sparingly add AK White for extreme highlights. Blending: Thin AK Emerald with water (4:1 water to paint) to create a glaze. Glaze over transitions to smooth the blends without dulling the brightest highlights. 3. Non-Metallic Gold (NMM) Wings Basecoat: Paint all gold areas, including the wings, with Games Workshop Mournfang Brown. Highlighting: Mix Mournfang Brown with AK Yellow Sand for the first layer of highlights. Gradually add AK Ice Yellow to the mix for subsequent layers, focusing on shine spots. Leave deeper sections in Mournfang Brown for contrast. Reflections: Use Games Workshop Rhinox Hide for dark reflections, especially where feathers overlap. Apply AK Deep Orange sparingly near reflective edges to add warmth and realism. Final Highlights: Add AK Ice Yellow mixed with AK White for sharp highlights on the edges of the feathers. Ensure highlights follow the natural curve of the wings for a realistic finish. 4. Painting the Gun Basecoat: Apply AK Anthracite Grey as the base layer. Layering: Gradually mix AK Neutral Grey into Anthracite Grey for the highlights. For the brightest edges, use Neutral Grey mixed with AK White. Shading: Mix Anthracite Grey with AK Black for shadows. Glaze darker mixes into recesses and areas less exposed to light. For the darkest areas, glaze with pure AK Black for maximum contrast. Grip Details: Paint the grip using the same grey mixes, focusing on sharp contrasts to make it stand out. 5. Detailing the Soul Stones Basecoat: Paint soul stones with AK Wind Red. Layering: Add tiny highlights with AK Ice Yellow to simulate light refraction. Place a pure white dot on the upper edge of each gem for a final touch of realism. 6. Final Steps and Adjustments Glazing: Use glazes to adjust transitions and smooth out blends on the armour, wings, and gun. Ensure you do not glaze over the brightest highlights to maintain contrast. Contrast Enhancements: Push the darkest areas on the wings and gun by glazing with AK Black. Add small touches of AK White to intensify the brightest highlights. 7. Optional: Corrections and Refinements Check the model from multiple angles to ensure smooth transitions and consistent highlights. If necessary, use stippling or pointillism techniques to refine blends on the armour or wings. Adjust the placement of light and shadow for better overall balance and contrast. Pro Tips Brush Size: Use larger brushes (size 1 or 2) for glazing and basecoats to ensure smooth finishes. Reserve smaller brushes for fine details. Patience: Allow layers to dry fully before glazing or blending to avoid damaging the work. Experimentation: Play with colour mixes to suit your preference. For example, add warmth to gold with AK Deep Orange or richness with AK Wind Red. This step-by-step guide provides everything you need to paint a stunning Swooping Hawk, ready to shine on the battlefield or, if you are like me, in a display case! 😉 Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark Reaper

This detailed video tutorial and step by step guide covers how to paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark Reaper. The focus is on achieving smooth transitions in black highlights and creating a stunning non-metallic gold (NMM) effect for the launcher’s tip. Video – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark ReaperPaints UsedStep by Step – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark ReaperPreparing the ModelBasecoating the Gold TipBlocking in Black HighlightsRefining Black HighlightsPainting the Non-Metallic Gold TipFinal Touches on the LauncherOptional: Glazing for Smooth FinishesGemstonesEvaluate and AdjustPro TipsPaint to water ratiosBasecoatingLayeringStipplingGlazingEdge Highlights Video – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark Reaper Paints Used AK: Black, White, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Sand Yellow Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Step by Step – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark Reaper Preparing the Model Ensure the Reaper Launcher is mounted separately to facilitate access to all areas. Prime the model black, focusing on even coverage. Basecoating the Gold Tip Use Mournfang Brown as the base for the NMM gold tip. Start by covering the entire tip with a larger brush for efficiency. Apply two thin coats for smooth, even coverage. Avoid painting the gemstones on the launcher—leave them black for now. Blocking in Black Highlights Prepare your wet palette with the following: AK Black on the far left. Gradually mix AK White into the black, creating incremental shades of grey. Optionally, use Neutral Grey as a mid-tone. Begin by blocking in highlights on the black sections of the launcher. Use the darkest grey (black + a small amount of white) to map out the key highlight areas. Apply thin layers, leaving some of the black basecoat visible for contrast. Refining Black Highlights Gradually add more AK White to your grey mix, creating lighter shades for successive highlights. Layer these on top of your initial highlights, leaving edges of the previous layer visible. Use a stippling technique for softer transitions. To create a high-gloss effect: Focus on tight, sharp highlights in key areas, blending smoothly into surrounding darker tones. Use a thin glaze of Neutral Grey to blend transitions and refine shapes. Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Tip Establish the gradient: Start with Mournfang Brown. Mix Dark Sun Yellow into Mournfang Brown for the next layer, applying it to the midsections. Add Ice Yellow to your Dark Sun Yellow mix for brighter highlights. Finish with pure Ice Yellow and small touches of White for the brightest spots. Focus on the light direction: Paint a strong horizontal highlight across the centre of the tip, following the light source. Add bounce highlights to the underside for added realism, but ensure these are subtle. Correct imperfections: Use Balor Brown to glaze over transitions and smooth out uneven areas. Incorporate Rhinox Hide for deeper shadows near recesses and edges. Final Touches on the Launcher Refine the highlight placement on the black body of the gun. Ensure light volumes correspond to the weapon’s position and orientation on the model. Adjust shapes to follow the cylindrical and spherical surfaces accurately. Add edge highlights: Use a bright grey (Neutral Grey + White) to pick out sharp edges for a crisp finish. Adjust shadows for maximum contrast: Apply a glaze of Black (or Abaddon Black) to deepen the darkest areas. Optional: Glazing for Smooth Finishes Create a glaze using your chosen colour diluted 5:1 with water. Apply thin, even layers over transitions, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next. Use a larger brush for glazing to avoid streaky finishes. For the NMM gold, glaze Mournfang Brown into midtones for a richer appearance. Gemstones Leave the gemstones unpainted for now if they will be addressed in a future video. Evaluate and Adjust Attach the launcher to the model and check the highlights’ alignment with the overall light source. Make any necessary corrections to ensure consistency and cohesion across the model. Pro Tips Avoid Overworking: If an area isn’t working, don’t hesitate to paint over it and start fresh. Test Glazes: Always test glaze consistency on a palette before applying it to the model. Reference Objects: Use real-world cylindrical or spherical objects to study light behaviour. Paint to water ratios Due to popular demand, here is some more info on the paint to water ratio for each technique! Basecoating Ratio: 2 parts paint to 1 part water. Purpose: Ensures smooth, even coverage without brush strokes. This is used for the Mournfang Brown basecoat on the gold tip. Layering Ratio: 3 parts paint to 1 part water. Purpose: Allows for controlled application while maintaining opacity for building highlights. This is used for the initial grey highlight layers on the black sections of the gun. Stippling Ratio: 1 part paint to 1 part water. Purpose: Achieves fine, controlled dots with minimal texture build-up. Used for softening highlight edges or creating subtle transitions, especially on the black gun body. Glazing Ratio: 5–6 parts water to 1 part paint. Purpose: Creates ultra-thin layers to blend transitions and smooth surfaces. This is used for: Blending the black highlights. Smoothing transitions on the NMM gold (e.g., glazing Mournfang Brown or Balor Brown into midtones). Adjusting overall contrast by glazing black into shadows or light colours into highlights. Edge Highlights Ratio: 3 parts paint to 1 part water (or slightly thicker). Purpose: Maintains control for sharp, precise lines. Used for picking out edges on the gun with light grey or white. By following these steps, your Dark Reaper launcher will be competition-ready, showcasing both dynamic black highlights and a rich NMM gold tip! Good luck! Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

Mastering NMM Gold: Step-by-Step Guide to Painting a Skull Mask by Cult of Paint

This guide covers painting the large skull mask from the Cult of Paint bust using the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique. The focus is on mastering NMM gold with a realistic gold effect. Below you’ll find the tutorial video, plus a breakdown of paints, tools, and techniques, along with detailed instructions to recreate the effect shown! Video: Painting a Skull Mask by Cult of Paint in NMM Gold Paints Used Base and Shadows: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown AK: Deep Brown, Light Brown Midtones: AK: Golden Brown, Dark Sun Yellow (Two Thin Coats) Highlights: AK: Sand Yellow, Pale Yellow, Ice Yellow, White Warm Reflections: AK: Deep Orange Techniques for Mastering NMM Gold Layering: Building colour transitions by adding lighter tones over darker ones. Glazing: Thinned paint applied in layers to soften transitions or enrich colours. Stippling: Creating texture with a brush by dabbing paint onto the surface. Edge Highlighting: Using a fine brush to highlight edges for contrast and definition. Preparation Prime the Model: Begin with a black primer to enhance shadows and contrast. Plan the Order: Paint recessed areas (like the eyes) before tackling the mask to avoid overlapping mistakes. Painting the Skull Mask Step 1: Base Colours Mix Rhinox Hide and Deep Brown for the darkest base layer. Apply this mix to all areas of the mask. Gradually add Golden Brown to your mix, focusing on raised areas and surfaces catching more light. Step 2: Midtones Apply Golden Brown as the primary midtone, building up the colour in layers. This will create the foundation for the gold effect. Mix Dark Sun Yellow with Golden Brown to create a richer, more saturated gold. Cover areas transitioning from shadow to light. Step 3: Highlights Use Sand Yellow and gradually work up to Pale Yellow and Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Focus on edges and surfaces directly facing your light source. Add White sparingly to the brightest points for a strong reflective effect. Key areas include the brow, cheekbones, and raised details. Step 4: Reflections Mix Deep Orange with a small amount of Golden Brown to create warm bounce reflections. Apply this to areas where light reflects indirectly, such as the sides of the mask or near recesses. Blend the orange reflections softly into surrounding areas to maintain a natural look. Step 5: Texture and Details Add texture by stippling Mournfang Brown or Rhinox Hide onto flat or damaged areas of the mask. This mimics wear and tear on a metallic surface. Use a fine brush to create scratches or imperfections with lighter colours, such as Ice Yellow mixed with Golden Brown. Refinement Blending Use thin layers of paint and blend transitions with a slightly damp brush. Glaze with Rhinox Hide or Deep Brown in shadowed areas to deepen contrast. Adjusting Highlights Reinforce the brightest areas with White if needed, ensuring the strongest highlights remain at focal points (e.g., the front of the mask). Final Touches for Mastering NMM Gold Reassess the overall contrast. Push shadows darker with a glaze of Rhinox Hide or even Abaddon Black for maximum depth. Add final edge highlights to sharpen the look, particularly on key edges like the nose bridge and cheekbones. Balance the texture. Blend areas as necessary to avoid overworking the details while keeping a painterly feel. Tips Brush Choice: Use larger brushes for initial layers and smaller ones (size 0 or 1) for finer details. A sharp brush tip is essential for precise highlights. Lighting Consideration: Think about where your light source is positioned to guide the placement of highlights and shadows. Experimentation: Feel free to adjust colours or add creative reflections to suit your vision. Explore more Non-Metallic Metal Tutorials Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint an Aeldari Dark Reaper

Welcome to my comprehensive painting guide for Aeldari Dark Reapers. Whether you’re looking to master freehand techniques or refine your display-standard painting skills, these tutorials have you covered. In the first tutorial, I’ll guide you through painting a freehand skull on a Dark Reaper helmet. This step-by-step process is perfect for intermediate to advanced painters who want to add atmospheric, lore-inspired details to their models. In the second tutorial, I’ll show you how to paint the armour, hair, and non-metallic gold (NMM) details on a Dark Reaper. With tips for correcting mistakes, smooth blending, and achieving a striking finish, this guide is ideal for anyone seeking to elevate their models to display standard. Together, these tutorials provide everything you need to create a visually stunning Dark Reaper unit with plenty of character and finesse. Let’s get started! How to Paint a Freehand Skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper HelmetVideo: How to Paint a Freehand Skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper HelmetMaterials NeededStep 1: Prepare the SurfaceStep 2: Prime the ModelStep 3: Painting the EyesStep 4: Begin the Skull OutlineStep 5: Adding Skull HighlightsStep 6: Fine Details and TeethStep 7: Highlighting and Final RefinementsStep 8: Optional Final TouchesHow to Paint an Aeldari Dark Reaper Part Two – Body, Gold and HairVideo: How to Paint an Aeldari Dark Reaper Part Two – Body, Gold and HairPainting Guide: Dark Reaper – Armour, Hair, and NMM GoldMaterials List:BrushesPaintsPrimersArmourStep 1: BasecoatStep 2: HighlightsStep 3: ShadingStep 4: RefinementHairStep 1: BasecoatStep 2: HighlightsStep 3: RefinementNon-Metallic Gold DetailsStep 1: BasecoatStep 2: HighlightsStep 3: ShadingStep 4: Finishing TouchesCorrecting MistakesFinal TouchesPro TipsVideo – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark ReaperPaints UsedStep by Step – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark ReaperPreparing the ModelBasecoating the Gold TipBlocking in Black HighlightsRefining Black HighlightsPainting the Non-Metallic Gold TipFinal Touches on the LauncherOptional: Glazing for Smooth FinishesEvaluate and AdjustPro TipsMore Aeldari videos below!Videos Not Showing? How to Paint a Freehand Skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper Helmet In this guide, I’ll walk you through the entire process of painting a freehand skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper helmet. Video: How to Paint a Freehand Skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper Helmet Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Sotek Green P3: Morrow White (or any white paint) Vallejo: Model Colour Black Other Supplies: Sculpting putty (for filling face details) Tamia Extra Thin Cement (optional, for smoothing putty edges) Sharp scalpel for scraping Wet palette for paint mixing Step 1: Prepare the Surface Fill in Sculpted Details: To ensure a smooth surface for the skull, use sculpting putty to fill in the nose and teeth details on the face. Apply a generous amount to cover gaps. Let it Dry Fully: Allow the putty to dry overnight. Scrape any excess with a scalpel for a smooth finish, avoiding key areas like the chin and brow to retain sharpness. Step 2: Prime the Model Apply Primer: Prime the model with black primer to enhance contrast and set the base for painting. Use Pins for Easy Handling: Attach pins to the model’s head and limbs to make it easier to handle and reposition during the painting process. Step 3: Painting the Eyes Base Colour: Start with Sotek Green as the base for the eye lenses. Layering Highlights: Gradually add white to Sotek Green for each successive layer, creating depth in the eye lenses. Focus highlights on the bottom edge of the lenses, where light naturally hits. Add Depth with Shadows: If desired, darken the top corner of each lens to achieve a soulless, reflective look. This effect is achieved by carefully adding black to the darkest areas, giving the eyes a sharp, eerie quality. Step 4: Begin the Skull Outline Base Colour with XV-88: Use XV-88 to outline the skull shape across the helmet’s face. This will act as the base colour for the skull, creating a solid foundation for further detail. Shadow Layer with Rhinox Hide: Mix XV-88 with Rhinox Hide to deepen shadows in certain areas, like the cheekbones and under the brow ridge. Step 5: Adding Skull Highlights Transition Layer with Morghast Bone: After blocking out the skull shape with XV-88, begin adding highlights with Morghast Bone. Apply this colour around the raised areas, like the forehead, cheekbones, and jaw. Create Smooth Transitions: Mix XV-88 and Morghast Bone to bridge the tones, softening transitions between shadows and highlights. Stippling for Texture: For a realistic bone texture, stipple Morghast Bone across the forehead and cheekbones. This adds a slight roughness, giving the impression of natural bone. Step 6: Fine Details and Teeth Teeth Outline: Using Morghast Bone, paint the teeth by creating slightly exaggerated outlines. This allows for sharper definition when refining with black later. Refining with Vallejo Black: Use Vallejo Black to cut into the teeth and refine their shape, narrowing them where necessary for a natural look. Vallejo Black’s smooth flow makes it ideal for creating crisp lines. Emphasising Depth: Rhinox Hide can be used as a softer alternative to pure black for adding shadows around the teeth and along cheekbone lines, giving a more subtle definition. Step 7: Highlighting and Final Refinements Add Bright Highlights: Mix Morghast Bone with Morrow White for the final highlights, concentrating on high points like the brow, the tip of the nose, and the edges of the cheekbones. Focus on Forehead Shine: For an extra focal point, add a slightly larger bright highlight to the forehead’s centre to mimic natural light reflection. Tweak Subtle Details: Adjust any final areas as necessary, ensuring the highlights and shadows balance well across the skull. This can be done by adding small touches of colour or blending transitions further. Step 8: Optional Final Touches If you wish to increase contrast, especially under high display lighting, revisit the forehead and cheekbone highlights, pushing the lighter areas with a touch more Morrow White. How to Paint an Aeldari Dark Reaper Part Two – Body, Gold and Hair This guide outlines how to paint the armour, hair, and NMM (non-metallic metal) gold details of a Dark Reaper model to display standard. This step-by-step process follows the techniques, corrections, and insights shared in the video below! Video: How to Paint an Aeldari Dark Reaper Part Two – Body, Gold and Hair Painting Guide: Dark Reaper – Armour, Hair, and NMM Gold Materials List: Brushes Artis Opus Series S: Size 0 for precise edge highlighting and small details. Size 1 for general layering and blending. Microfiber Cloth: For cleaning and removing excess moisture from brushes (preferred over kitchen roll to avoid fibres contaminating paint). Paints Armour Colours AK Interactive: Violet Red (primary armour colour) Black (base and shadow colour) Ice Yellow (for highlights and NMM gold) Optional Armour Colour: Red Wine (alternative base colour, mixed with Black for shading) Gold (NMM) Colours Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown (base for gold) Rhinox Hide (shadow glaze for deeper contrast) AK Interactive: Golden Brown (first highlight for gold) Ice Yellow (bright highlights and shine spots) Hair Colours AK Interactive: Deep Blue (base and midtones, replacing Night Lords Blue) P3: Morrow White (for mixing and highlights) Other Paints (Optional) Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow (alternative warm yellow for gold, used sparingly due to grainy texture) Primers AK Interactive: Black primer (matte finish for excellent paint adherence). Armour Step 1: Basecoat Colours: AK Violet Red for the final armour; AK Red Wine (mixed with black for shading) if attempting the alternative colour. Prime the model with a matte black primer (AK Black recommended for a more consistent finish). Cover the armour with AK Violet Red, leaving recesses darker. Optional: Start with AK Red Wine for a redder tone but mix with a touch of black to desaturate it. Step 2: Highlights Mixes: Violet Red + White for progressive highlights. Build highlights gradually using thin layers. Edge highlight all raised edges with a finer mix of Violet Red + more White. Step 3: Shading Colours: Black or Violet Red mixed with black. Deepen recesses by glazing with a mix of Violet Red and black. Use a controlled glazing technique for smooth transitions between shadows and highlights. Step 4: Refinement Use stippling to smooth transitions if needed. Create a final glaze using Violet Red diluted with water (4:1 ratio) to unify tones and enhance saturation. Hair Step 1: Basecoat Colours: AK Deep Blue (alternative to Games Workshop Night Lords Blue). Repaint any old colours (e.g., green) with a clean black basecoat. Apply AK Deep Blue as the primary hair colour. Step 2: Highlights Mixes: Deep Blue + White for lighter tones. Highlight raised areas and strands using thin lines to mimic shine. Focus on areas where curves catch light, like the top of the topknot and edges of strands. Step 3: Refinement Glaze over highlights with diluted Deep Blue to maintain a rich, dark tone. Aim for smooth transitions and avoid stark contrasts. Non-Metallic Gold Details Step 1: Basecoat Colours: Games Workshop Mournfang Brown. Block in gold areas, such as rib details on the chest and other decorative elements. Step 2: Highlights Mixes: Mournfang Brown + AK Golden Brown. Golden Brown + AK Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Pure Ice Yellow or Ice Yellow + White for extreme highlights. Begin highlighting raised areas and edges, keeping transitions tight. Focus brightest highlights on upper-facing sections, such as the chest. Step 3: Shading Colours: Rhinox Hide. Glaze Rhinox Hide into shadows to deepen contrast and create tonal variation. Step 4: Finishing Touches Add a final glaze of Golden Brown mixed with a hint of Ice Yellow to blend transitions. Ensure each rib section has its own highlights to avoid uniformity, simulating light catching at different angles. Correcting Mistakes If paint spills onto finished areas, quickly clean with a damp brush before it sets. For set paint, carefully repaint with basecoat colours, blending as needed. Final Touches Armour: Reassess highlight placement. Ensure light volumes are consistent and focused on areas like the chest and thighs. Hair: Keep highlights smaller to maintain the deep blue richness. Gold: Add micro highlights with Ice Yellow or pure White for an extra reflective effect. Pro Tips Use a wet palette to manage paint mixes and prevent drying. Employ glazing for smooth transitions and tonal adjustments. Keep the model under a consistent light source for accurate highlight placement. Video – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark Reaper Paints Used AK: Black, White, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Sand Yellow Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Step by Step – How to Paint the Reaper Launcher for a Dark Reaper Preparing the Model Ensure the Reaper Launcher is mounted separately to allow access to all areas. Prime the model black, focusing on even coverage. Basecoating the Gold Tip Use Mournfang Brown as the base for the NMM gold tip. Start by covering the entire tip with a larger brush for efficiency. Apply two thin coats for smooth, even coverage. Avoid painting the gemstones on the launcher—leave them black for now. Blocking in Black Highlights Prepare your wet palette with the following: AK Black on the far left. Gradually mix AK White into the black, creating incremental shades of grey. Optionally, use Neutral Grey as a mid-tone. Begin by blocking in highlights on the black sections of the launcher. Use the darkest grey (black + a small amount of white) to map out the key highlight areas. Apply thin layers, leaving some of the black basecoat visible for contrast. Refining Black Highlights Gradually add more AK White to your grey mix, creating lighter shades for successive highlights. Layer these on top of your initial highlights, leaving edges of the previous layer visible. Use a stippling technique for softer transitions. To create a high-gloss effect: Focus on tight, sharp highlights in key areas, blending smoothly into surrounding darker tones. Use a thin glaze of Neutral Grey to blend transitions and refine shapes. Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Tip Establish the gradient: Start with Mournfang Brown. Mix Dark Sun Yellow into Mournfang Brown for the next layer, applying it to the midsections. Add Ice Yellow to your Dark Sun Yellow mix for brighter highlights. Finish with pure Ice Yellow and small touches of White for the brightest spots. Focus on the light direction: Paint a strong horizontal highlight across the centre of the tip, following the light source. Add bounce highlights to the underside for added realism, but ensure these are subtle. Correct imperfections: Use Balor Brown to glaze over transitions and smooth out uneven areas. Incorporate Rhinox Hide for deeper shadows near recesses and edges. Final Touches on the Launcher Refine the highlight placement on the black body of the gun. Ensure light volumes correspond to the weapon’s position and orientation on the model. Adjust shapes to follow the cylindrical and spherical surfaces accurately. Add edge highlights: Use a bright grey (Neutral Grey + White) to pick out sharp edges for a crisp finish. Adjust shadows for maximum contrast: Apply a glaze of Black (or Abaddon Black) to deepen the darkest areas. Optional: Glazing for Smooth Finishes Create a glaze using your chosen colour diluted 5:1 with water. Apply thin, even layers over transitions, allowing each layer to dry before adding the next. Use a larger brush for glazing to avoid streaky finishes. For the NMM gold, glaze Mournfang Brown into midtones for a richer appearance. Evaluate and Adjust Attach the launcher to the model and check the highlights’ alignment with the overall light source. Make any necessary corrections to ensure consistency and cohesion across the model. Pro Tips Reference Objects: Use real-world cylindrical or spherical objects to study light behaviour. Avoid Overworking: If an area isn’t working, don’t hesitate to paint over it and start fresh. Test Glazes: Always test glaze consistency on a palette before applying it to the model. Ensure the Reaper Launcher is mounted separately to facilitate access to all areas. Prime the model black, focusing on even coverage. More Aeldari videos below! Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf

In this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf from the new Chaos Dwarf Blood Bowl box, provided by Games Workshop as an early review copy. We’ll be focusing on achieving a high tabletop standard, using a combination of classic paint colours and techniques to bring out the rich, detailed character of the model. Whether you’re painting for your next game or aiming for a display-worthy finish, this step-by-step guide will help you tackle everything from non-metallic metal gold to vibrant red armour, all while keeping the process efficient and enjoyable. Video – How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf Step-by-Step Guide Materials Required: Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Bugman’s Glow, Night Lords Blue, Rhinox Hide Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey Two Thin Coats Paints: Dark Sun YellowWhite Star Brushes: Artis Opus Size 1 Brush, Artis Opus Size 00 Brush Other Tools: Wet Palette, Lamp (for checking light placement), Water Jar How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf Step 1: Priming Start by priming the model using Mephiston Red as the base coat. You can use an airbrush or a hand brush to apply it. This will form the base of the red armour and speed up the process. Step 2: Painting the Beard For the beard, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to base coat it. Highlight the beard using Vallejo Neutral Grey. Apply this in parallel strokes to follow the sculpted lines of the beard. Add some final highlights by mixing Neutral Grey with a bit of White Star and pick out raised areas. Step 3: Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim For the gold trim, begin with XV-88 as the base colour. This provides a solid foundation for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. Create your first highlight mix with Dark Sun Yellow. Layer this on top of the XV-88, leaving some of the base visible. Gradually lighten the gold by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with White Star. Apply smaller, more precise highlights with each layer. To give the gold a bit more warmth, you can glaze over areas with XV-88 or add subtle orange tints using Troll Slayer Orange in the shadowed areas. Step 4: Painting the Red Armour After the Mephiston Red base, layer on Evil Sunz Scarlet. Use a stippling or scratchy technique to give texture to the armour. For shadowing, use Night Lords Blue in the recesses and shaded areas, being careful not to overwhelm the red. If needed, go back with Evil Sunz Scarlet to reinforce the red and add brightness. Step 5: Shading and Highlighting the Face Wash the face with a thinned-down layer of Rhinox Hide (4 parts water, 1 part paint) to shade it and separate it from the rest of the armour. Highlight the face using Bugman’s Glow, focusing on the raised areas like the nose, cheeks, and brow. For brighter highlights, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow (or White Star if you don’t have Ice Yellow) to add subtle highlights to key areas like the cheekbones and nose bridge. Step 6: Painting the Eyes Paint the whites of the eyes using a light grey rather than pure white to keep it natural. Use black to paint the pupil and iris in one go, as these are very small details that don’t require too much fine detail. Step 7: Painting the Teeth and Horns Base the teeth and horns with Morghast Bone. You can use the same colour for both areas to keep consistency. Add highlights using White Star on the tips of the teeth and horns, carefully placing small dots or lines for a shine effect. Step 8: Painting the Leather Areas The gloves and boots can be painted with the same colours as the horns. Start with XV-88 for the base coat, then highlight with Morghast Bone, but don’t take the highlights up to white for these areas. Step 9: Finishing Touches Once the main areas are painted, go back and refine any details that need sharpening, such as the edges of the armour or the highlights on the face. If the red armour starts looking too dark or the highlights become too muted, reapply Evil Sunz Scarlet in fine marks to bring the vibrancy back. Step 10: Final Shading and Glazing For a final touch, glaze over the non-metallic gold areas with a thin mix of XV-88 to enhance the richness of the colour. You can add extra depth to the shadows by applying a thin wash of Night Lords Blue in the deepest recesses of the red armour. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour – PDF

Unlock the secrets to painting Rogal Dorn’s iconic armour with this comprehensive guide on the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique. Learn how to master the art of simulating reflective gold without using metallic paints. This step-by-step guide, complete with tips and tricks, will walk you through every stage of the process, from priming and base layers to perfecting highlights and shadows. Whether you’re new to NMM or looking to refine your skills, this guide is your go-to resource for achieving stunning results. How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here. Looking for the video? How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold In this detailed video guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists! Watch Now Read PDF Guide Why Use NMM Gold for to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour? Rogal Dorn, the stalwart Primarch of the Imperial Fists, is renowned for his unyielding defence of the Imperium. His armour, adorned in resplendent gold, symbolizes not only his noble duty to protect humanity but also reflects the unbreakable spirit of the Imperial Fists. The gold represents his loyalty and the shining beacon of hope he stands for in the dark times of war. Painting his armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold captures this grandeur and allows you to highlight the brilliance and majesty of one of the Imperium’s greatest warriors! More Tips on NMM! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs in addition to the How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal PDF above. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. [...] Read more...

How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock

In this guide, we’ll walk through how to paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock with a grimy, non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. The focus will be on creating weathered steel armour and verdigris-weathered copper. You’ll learn to build up layers using stippling and dry brushing, while maintaining the gritty, battle-worn look typical of Skaven. This method is also ideal for quickly painting an entire army to a table-ready standard. Video – How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock: Part One Materials Needed: Games Workshop Paints: Doombull Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow Brushes: Large and small dry brushes (Artis Opus recommended, or makeup brushes can suffice), size 0 brush, and others as needed Step 1: Prime the Model Begin by priming your assembled model with Abaddon Black, Step 2: Base Layer with Mournfang Brown Using a large dry brush, apply a base coat of Mournfang Brown using a stippling technique. Thin the paint by mixing it with water (about 50/50 ratio). Ensure the dry brush is damp but not wet to avoid texture buildup. Stipple the paint all over the model, ensuring a smooth application with no unwanted texture. This will create a rough surface that adds depth to the dirty, grimy appearance of the armour. Step 3: Add Neutral Grey Highlights Switch to a smaller dry brush for more control, and apply Vallejo Neutral Grey. Again, thin the paint with water (50/50) and lightly stipple the paint over areas where you want the steel effect. Focus on armour plates and metallic surfaces, building up a soft layer of grey over the brown to give it a worn metallic look. Let the initial layer of Mournfang Brown peek through to give the impression of rust and grime. Step 4: Refine the Metallic Layers Now, switch to your size 0 brush for more detailed work. Continue building highlights using Neutral Grey but add small amounts of Ice Yellow with each layer. Increase the amount of Ice Yellow in each highlight as you progress, eventually reaching pure Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights. Add a final touch of white if you want to push the contrast further. Be cautious not to overblend; the strength of this technique lies in the visible transitions between layers, adding texture and a rough, battle-worn appearance. Step 5: Create Verdigris on Copper Sections For the copper elements, begin with Doombull Brown as your base colour. Hold the model under a light to identify the highlight areas. Thin Doombull Brown and apply it to the copper parts of the model. Mix Bugman’s Glow with Doombull Brown for the next layer, applying this mix to the raised areas of the copper. Progressively add Ice Yellow to Bugman’s Glow for further highlights, working up to nearly pure Ice Yellow. If your copper starts looking too pale, glaze over with a watered-down layer of Doombull Brown to restore some warmth. Step 6: Add Verdigris Weathering To achieve a verdigris effect, mix Vallejo Ice Yellow and Warpstone Glow with water (about 3:1 ratio of water to paint). Apply this to recesses and areas where the copper would naturally oxidise. Focus on the joints and edges of the copper parts. As the glaze dries, it will create a subtle verdigris patina, enhancing the aged look of the model. Step 7: Apply Rusty Shadows and Dark Glazes To deepen the shadows on the armour, mix Rhinox Hide with Abaddon Black, thinning it with water (4:1 water to paint). Use this glaze to darken recesses and areas where rust would gather, particularly around the joints and lower sections. Glaze carefully to avoid losing the texture created by earlier stippling. Stay away from the brightest highlights to maintain the contrast. Step 8: Add a Pop of Colour – Warpstone Glow Lens For small details like lenses, start by applying Warpstone Glow to the lens, followed by a highlight of Moot Green. Finish with a small dot of Flash Gitz Yellow in the upper corner of the lens for a specular highlight. Ensure the lens stands out from the grimy armour to give the model a bit of Skaven flare. This stage of painting the Skaven Arch-Warlock gives you a quick and effective tabletop-ready look, perfect for gaming or as a base for further refinement. The grimy, weathered appearance suits the Skaven’s lore, while the stippling and dry brushing techniques create a realistic metallic effect without needing an airbrush. In the next part, we’ll continue with other details such as the weapon, robe, and tail. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon

Welcome to my guide on how to paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon from the Hive Secundus box set. This video tutorial along with step-by-step guide will help you achieve a high tabletop standard, with lots of the techniques interchangeable for your other models’ weapons, too! Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Materials and Paints Needed Paints Games Workshop: Incubi Darkness Daemonette Hide Abaddon Black P3: Morrow White Vallejo: Model Colour Black Brushes Artist Opus Size 1 brush Artist Opus Size 00 brush Other Tools Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed) Wet palette Preparation Weapon Removal: If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier. How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Base Colour Incubi Darkness: Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading. Highlighting Daemonette Hide: Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light. For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition. For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth. Blending Highlights Incubi Darkness: Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights. For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish. Edge Highlights Daemonette Hide: Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon. Daemonette Hide and Morrow White: Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features. Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas. Painting the Number ‘2’ Base Colour Light Grey: Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon. If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish. Detailing the Number Vallejo Model Colour Black: Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work. If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges. Additional Details Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections Neutral Grey to White: For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights. Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish. Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look. Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Part Two Materials and Paints Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Detail brush for fine lines and highlights A larger brush for base coating Additional Tools: Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush. Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes) Preparing the Base Colour Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover. Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish. Building the NMM Gold Effect Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal. Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas. Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition. Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight. Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal. Adding Hazard Stripes Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up. Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out. Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension. Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition. Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes. Final Touches Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes. Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic. Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place. Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work. By following these steps, you’ll have a beautifully painted Van Saar Heavy Weapon that stands out on the tabletop. Enjoy the process and take your time to achieve the best results! More Van Saar Tutorials! How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips! Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set

In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips! Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus setPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set Base Colour ApplicationHighlightingDetailing with BlacksPainting the VisorEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponMaterials and Paints NeededPaintsBrushesOther ToolsPreparationStep by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponBase ColourHighlightingBlending HighlightsEdge HighlightsPainting the Number ‘2’Base ColourDetailing the NumberAdditional DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) SectionsVideo : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Materials and Paints Needed:Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Preparing the Base ColourBuilding the NMM Gold EffectAdding Hazard StripesFinal Touches Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set The techniques and steps covered should help you achieve a high-quality finish on the armour panels and visor. Paints and Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Dark Reaper, Sybarite Green, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Model Colour Black Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 1 Artis Opus Size 0 Artis Opus Additional Tools: Wet palette Lamp for lighting guidance Step by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set Base Colour Application Base Colour: Start by applying Dark Reaper as the base colour. This colour should cover all the armour panels. Tip: Use a wet palette to keep your paints fresh and to mix colours easily. Highlighting First Highlight Mix: Create a 50/50 mix of Dark Reaper and Sybarite Green. Apply this mix to the raised areas of the armour, focusing on where the light naturally hits. Paint towards the highlight points to ensure the finish is opaque and the colours are strong. Second Highlight: Use pure Sybarite Green for the next layer. Apply this in smaller areas within the previously highlighted sections. For best results, use the lamp as a rough guide for light placement. Final Highlight: Mix Sybarite Green with P3 Morrow White to achieve the final highlight colour. Apply this sparingly to the highest points of the armour. Ensure the transitions between layers are smooth. If necessary, go back with the darker mix to blend the steps. Detailing with Blacks Glazing Shadows: Use Abaddon Black to glaze shadows and enhance depth. This paint is slightly satin and has less coverage, making it ideal for subtle shading. Apply it to the chest panel and other large armour sections where you want the darkest areas. Rubber Effect: For a stronger black mark, use Vallejo Model Colour Black. This paint is more opaque and covers better, perfect for small details and corrections. Painting the Visor Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown to the visor as a base. This will help establish a rich, warm undertone. Highlighting the Visor: Use the following sequence for the visor highlights: Mix Mournfang Brown with Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow (50/50) and apply. Pure Dark Sun Yellow for the next layer. Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White for the final highlight. Adding Contrast: To enhance the visor’s shine, add a touch of Rhinox Hide to the upper highlight areas. This creates a quick transition to a nearly white highlight for a shiny effect. Edge Highlights and Final Touches Edge Highlights: Use the highlight mixes to edge highlight the armour panels. Keep the lines sharp and neat, cutting into them with the darker base colours if needed. Blending: Go back and forth between the highlight and base colours to blend any visible transitions. For small, detailed areas, use the tip of the brush and work slowly. Additional Reflections: Add subtle reflections to the visor and armour panels for a more realistic effect. Use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to darken areas as needed, enhancing the 3D effect. Video: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Learn how to apply a smooth base coat using Incubi Darkness and create striking highlights with Daemonette Hide. We cover mastering blending techniques for seamless transitions and edge highlighting for sharp, clean details. Additionally, you’ll learn how to freehand the number ‘2’ for a personalised touch and paint non-metallic metal (NMM) sections for realistic metal effects. Materials and Paints Needed Paints Games Workshop: Incubi Darkness Daemonette Hide Abaddon Black P3: Morrow White Vallejo: Model Colour Black Brushes Artist Opus Size 1 brush Artist Opus Size 00 brush Other Tools Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed) Wet palette Preparation Weapon Removal: If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier. Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Base Colour Incubi Darkness: Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading. Highlighting Daemonette Hide: Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light. For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition. For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth. Blending Highlights Incubi Darkness: Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights. For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish. Edge Highlights Daemonette Hide: Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon. Daemonette Hide and Morrow White: Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features. Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas. Painting the Number ‘2’ Base Colour Light Grey: Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon. If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish. Detailing the Number Vallejo Model Colour Black: Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work. If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges. Additional Details Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections Neutral Grey to White: For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights. Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish. Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look. Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes) Materials and Paints Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Detail brush for fine lines and highlights A larger brush for base coating Additional Tools: Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush. Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes) Preparing the Base Colour Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover. Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish. Building the NMM Gold Effect Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal. Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas. Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition. Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight. Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal. Adding Hazard Stripes Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up. Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out. Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension. Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition. Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes. Final Touches Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes. Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic. Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place. Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Grey Seer NMM and Verdigris

This is part 2 in a series for how to paint a Grey Seer from the Skaventide box that Games Workshop sent me. This video focuses on the metal sections of the staff, particularly the top symbol, and how to paint it in NMM and add verdigris. Video: How to paint a Grey Seer – NMM and Verdigris Paints Used Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Inverted Highlighting and Verdigris We’ll start by finishing the verdigris around the runes on the dagger. This involves inverted highlighting, where the darkest areas are actually the lightest. The mix for this is Sybarite Green and Sotek Green, with a touch of white added for the highlight layer. Remember this mix, as we’ll use it later on the staff and symbol. How to paint a Grey Seer Staff Base Colours: If you airbrushed the model with brown, you can use XV-88 as your starting point for highlights. For areas not covered by XV-88, use Mournfang Brown to blend the edges. Remember, the goal is a scratched, rough metal look, not a perfectly smooth finish. Highlighting: Start by mixing XV-88 with Dark Sun Yellow and apply it to the curves of the staff, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit. Gradually add more Dark Sun Yellow to your mix for subsequent highlights, building up the brightness. For the final highlights, use pure Dark Sun Yellow or Ice Yellow mixed with Dark Sun Yellow. Remember to paint the entire staff, including the back and sides, but focus the brightest highlights on the front. Adding Depth and Contrast: Use Rhinox Hide to darken areas and create contrast. Thin the Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for smoother blending. Don’t worry about being too precise with the scratches; they’ll add to the overall texture. Painting the Symbol Flat Surfaces: Painting NMM on flat surfaces can be tricky, but focus on edge highlights and texture. Use the same colors and techniques as for the staff, but pay attention to the light source and where the brightest highlights should be. Leave the sides of the symbol dark to enhance contrast. Verdigris: Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (50/50) and heavily water it down (70% water, 30% paint). Apply the verdigris to the recesses and darker areas of the symbol. Remember, this is for visual effect, not realism, so focus on what looks best. Additional Tips for How to Paint a Grey Seer Use a size 1 Artist Opus brush for the scratchy marks. Don’t worry about perfect transitions; the scratches will help blend the colours. Consider the overall lighting of your model and adjust highlight placement accordingly. For a more desaturated gold, add more white to your Dark Sun Yellow mixes. More videos on how to paint a Grey Seer! How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer! Watch Now How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGr [...] Read more...

How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel

This step-by-step guide provides a comprehensive overview of the process for how to paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel. By following these steps, you can achieve a stunning NMM (non-metallic metal) finish which you can use on your Abraxia, or anything that has this distinctive curved armour or carapace shape! Video: How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel Materials Games Workshop paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Abaddon Black, Sons of Horus Green, Barak-Nar Burgundy Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Heavy Grey Two Thin Coats paint: Dark Sun Yellow P3 paint: Morrow White Various Artist Opus brushes, including size 1 and size 2 Steps to Follow Step 1: Block in the Colours Begin by roughly blocking in the colours on the entire model using a size 1 brush. This helps to establish the overall colour scheme and provides a base for the highlights. Use Neutral Grey for the armour plates and XV-88 for the gold trim. Apply Sons of Horus Green and Barak-Nar Burgundy to the skin areas. Step 2: Refine the Armour Plates Choose an armour panel to focus on and begin refining the NMM effect. Start with Neutral Grey and gradually add Ice Yellow to create a series of increasingly lighter highlights. Use a variety of brush strokes to create texture and variation in the reflections, ensuring a “micro texture” that is smooth and detailed. Consider the overall lighting of the model and place the highlights accordingly. Glaze with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to add depth and warmth to the shadows. Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights, creating smooth transitions and a bright, opaque finish. Step 3: Add Weathering and Details Use a smaller brush to add scratches, dents, and other details to the armour plates, turning the marks from the initial blocking in into realistic battle damage. Vary the colours of the weathering based on the surrounding area, using darker greys or black in shadowed areas and lighter greys or white in highlighted areas. Glaze with white to create a smooth, opaque finish on the brightest highlights, enhancing the illusion of reflected light. Step 4: Repeat for Additional Panels Repeat the process for the remaining armour panels, adjusting the placement and intensity of the highlights to match the overall lighting scheme. Remember that the highlights should become smaller and darker as you move away from the main focal point of the model. Additional Tips: Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours and techniques. Consider the overall composition of the model and how the different elements will interact with each other – what will be on your base? Who will be around it? Colours will reflect off these objects onto the shiny armour. Building your Abraxia How to Build Abraxia, With Tips! This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc. Watch Now Read PDF Guide If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Red Techmarine NMM Axe

This how to paint a Red Techmarine NMM Axe guide aims to help you achieve a realistic non-metallic metal effect on your Techmarine’s axe, with a focus on contrast, texture, and light reflection. For all of the videos on how to paint a Red Techmarine, follow the link below, or scroll down here for just the axe guide! Red Techmarine A series for how to paint a Primaris Techmarine by Games Workshop. Watch Now Video: How to Paint a Red Techmarine – NMM Axe This guide aims to help you achieve a realistic non-metallic metal effect on your Techmarine’s axe, with a focus on contrast, texture, and light reflection. Materials Needed: Fine detail brushes for precise application. (I use the Artis Opus range, but any decent quality brush works!) A wet palette to keep your paints hydrated. Vallejo and Games Workshop paints: Doombull Brown, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, XV-88, Ice Yellow, Pale Grey Blue, and P3 Morrow White (or any white). Preparing the NMM Axe: Metal Pole: Begin by painting the metal pole using the same NMM techniques detailed in the previous video. This ensures consistency across metallic elements of the miniature. Painting the Circular Detail on the NMM Axe: Base Colour: Start with the darker brown (Doombull Brown), applying it as the base for the small circular detail on the pole. This connects the colour scheme with the axe head, adding warmth and interest. Highlighting: Gradually build up the highlights transitioning from dark (Doombull Brown) to light (XV-88 to Ice Yellow) from the top to the bottom of the circular detail. Finish with a thin edge highlight at the top for definition. Painting the NMM Axe Blade: Vertical Lines: Initially, paint vertical lines across the blade with a mixture of 50:50 water to paint. This underlayer softens the stark contrast between subsequent horizontal lines and the dark primer. Adding Texture: Apply horizontal lines over the vertical ones to create a cross-hatching effect. This technique adds texture and subtlety to the blade, avoiding harsh contrasts. Defining Highlights: Focus on creating a diagonal highlight across the axe head, marking the primary light reflection. This line should be brighter at the top edge of the blade, tapering and becoming more subtle as it crosses the blade. Building Up the Blade’s Texture: Further Highlights: Use Mournfang Brown to add more texture and depth, emphasizing the top of the blade where the light is strongest. The aim is to make the top appear lighter than the bottom, enhancing the NMM effect. Ice Yellow Highlights: Progress to Ice Yellow for the highest highlights, concentrating on areas that would catch the most light. Ensure these lines are fine and precise to maintain the textured look. Detailing the Axe Head: Base Texturing: With Mournfang Brown, create scribbly, textured marks on the flat of the axe head, focusing on creating a light to dark modulation from one edge to the other. Enhancing Texture: Progress through Balor Brown and XV-88, adding finer, more controlled highlights to build up the texture. These should be more focused and less extensive than the base texture, adding depth and interest to the surface. Final Highlights: Use Ice Yellow and Pale Grey Blue for the final highlights, paying particular attention to areas like the skull and the circle on the axe head. These colours should only be applied to the blade for differentiation, so don’t go too crazy with them, adding a cool tone to contrast with the warmer body of the axe head. Finishing Touches: Neatening Edges: Go back and tidy up any overspill or overly broad lines with the base colours, ensuring the texture remains coherent and the contrasts sharp. Evaluation: Step back and review the entire piece, making any necessary adjustments to ensure the NMM effect is convincing and the textures and contrasts work together harmoniously. If you can’t see the videos, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Dante Axe NMM

This video shows how to paint Dante’s axe NMM. This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result! Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM Materials and Paints Used Paints Games Workshop Paints: Baharroth Blue Rhinox Hide Mournfang Brown Vallejo Paints: Ice Yellow Neutral Grey German Grey Kimera Colours Paint: Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange) Materials Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe. Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency. Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe. Step 1: Preparing the Axe Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide. Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights. Step 2: Base Painting Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer. Base Colours: For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo). For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom. Step 3: Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom. Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom. Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection. Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality. Step 4: Refining the Metallic Look Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade. Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas. Step 5: Edge Highlights and Final Touches Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look. Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights. Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights. Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact. Now, you’re all set to bring Dante’s axe to life with a stunning NMM effect that mimics the intricate play of light on metal surfaces! While you are here, check out more NMM tutorials to try. More NMM Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Commander Dante

A series looking at how to paint Commander Dante, which was sent to me for early review purposes by Games Workshop. The model is being painted to a high standard and will be covered in large amounts of NMM (Non Metallic Metal) Quick Jump To: Materials and Paints Needed for the NMMVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part OneVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part TwoVideo – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part ThreeSteps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMMBase LayerDeveloping Mid-TonesRefining HighlightsEnhancing BrightnessDeepening ShadowsFinal Highlights and Sharp DetailsGlazing and SmoothingClean UpTips for Success:Video – NMM Axe (First Version)Materials NeededStepsTipsVideo – NMM Axe (Second Version)Materials and Paints UsedPreparing the AxeBase PaintingSky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) TechniqueRefining the Metallic LookEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo – Head, Eyes, Blood GemMaterials and Paints Needed:Steps for Commander Dantes Head and DetailsVideo – Red Shoulder NMMPaints NeededStepsTips Materials and Paints Needed for the NMM Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for precise work on NMM effects. Black Primer: To create a solid base for your colours. Palette: For mixing your paints and achieving the right consistency. Paints: Base and Mid-Tones: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown (Games Workshop) Highlights: Ice Yellow (Vallejo; you can substitute with Dorn Yellow from GW), Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz Yellow (Games Workshop) Shadows and Deep Recesses: Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) Final Highlights and Sharp Details: Morrow White (P3; any high-quality white paint will suffice) Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part One All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow! Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Two Video – How to Paint Commander Dante NMM: Part Three Steps and Tips on Commander Dante: NMM Base Layer Paint: Mournfang BrownApplication: Apply Mournfang Brown as a base layer over the areas you intend to paint gold. This forms a foundational layer that aids in building depth. Developing Mid-Tones Paints: Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor BrownApplication: Begin layering XV-88 over the Mournfang Brown base, focusing on raised areas. Then, use Balor Brown to start defining the mid-tones, enhancing the dimensional appearance. Refining Highlights Paints: Mix of Balor Brown and Ice YellowApplication: Create a lighter shade by mixing Balor Brown with a small amount of Ice Yellow. Apply this mixture to the highest points of the highlighted areas, where light naturally catches more intensely. Enhancing Brightness Paints: Ice Yellow, Troll Slayer Orange, Flash Gitz YellowApplication: Gradually add brighter highlights using these colours. Focus on areas where light would hit the strongest, such as edges and prominent features. Deepening Shadows Paint: Rhinox HideApplication: Use Rhinox Hide to deepen the shadows and add contrast. Apply it in recessed areas and where different parts of the model meet, to give more definition and depth. Final Highlights and Sharp Details Paint: Morrow WhiteApplication: Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights and sharp details, accentuating the most raised edges where the light would be most intense. Glazing and Smoothing Technique: GlazingApplication: If necessary, use glazing with the lighter colours to smooth out transitions between highlights and mid-tones, ensuring a more natural progression of colour. Clean Up Action: Tidy any overspill or mistakes with appropriate base colours. This step is crucial for a neat and professional finish. Tips for Success: Consistency is Key: Maintain the right paint consistency. For NMM, a slightly thicker mix can be preferable for vibrant colours, but it should still flow smoothly.Consider Lighting: Always consider the overall lighting and direction of your model. Your highlights should consistently reflect this light source.Brush Care: Look after your brushes. Use a separate brush for mixing paints to maintain the fine tips of your detail brushes.Patience Pays Off: Allow each layer to dry thoroughly before proceeding to the next. NMM is a technique that benefits greatly from patience and careful layering. Video – NMM Axe (First Version) Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details Palette: For mixing colours Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes Steps Initial Blocking In: Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM. Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes. Lightening the Blue-Green Mix: Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle. Painting the Upper and Lower Sections: Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights. For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide. Creating Specular Highlights: Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges. Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM. Adding Lightning Effect: Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects. Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe. Glazing and Smoothing: Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights. Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment. Final Touches: Refine the edges and any rough areas. If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism. Tips Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints. Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes. Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement. Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next. Video – NMM Axe (Second Version) This is my second try at the axe NMM, as I wasn’t happy with the first result! You can use whichever you prefer. Video – How to Paint Dante Axe NMM (V2) Materials and Paints Used Paints Games Workshop Paints: Baharroth Blue Rhinox Hide Mournfang Brown Vallejo Paints: Ice Yellow Neutral Grey German Grey Kimera Colours Paint: Diarylide Yellow (Note: You can create a similar effect by mixing Yriel Yellow with a small amount of orange) Materials Black Primer: For the initial coat on the axe. Wet Palette: For mixing and maintaining paint consistency. Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and details – I use Artist Opus brushes, but any high-quality fine-detail brush is fine Sanding Tools: For modifying and smoothing the cutting edge of the axe. Preparing the Axe Initial Assessment: Note that The Cutting Edge is blunt, almost a millimeter wide. Modification: Carefully shave down The Cutting Edge for a more realistic, thin look. Ensure evenness to avoid wonky highlights. Base Painting Primer: Apply a light coat of black primer. Base Colours: For the flat side of the axe, start with a base of Neutral Grey (Vallejo). For The Cutting Edge, use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) at the top, blending into Mournfang Brown towards the bottom. Sky Earth Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Technique Sky Representation: Mix Baharroth Blue (Games Workshop) with Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to create a sky-like gradient on the flat side of the axe. Start darker at the top, gradually lightening towards the bottom. Earth Representation: At the bottom of The Cutting Edge, use a mix of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) for the earth reflection. Blend Neutral Grey (Vallejo) into this mix for lighter shades towards the bottom. Adding Highlights: Gradually add more Ice Yellow (Vallejo) to the Baharroth Blue mix for the sky, and more Mournfang Brown for the earth, to create a sense of depth and reflection. Reflection Details: Add subtle warped shapes and lines to mimic trees or mountains in the reflection, enhancing the mirror-like quality. Refining the Metallic Look Glare Effect: Identify the primary light source and add a glare effect on the axe. This will be higher up on the axe blade. Shine Spots: Paint independent shine spots to enhance the metallic effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and German Grey (Vallejo) for darker areas, and a mix of Ice Yellow and Baharroth Blue for lighter areas. Edge Highlights and Final Touches Edge Highlights: Apply thin highlights along The Cutting Edge and other prominent edges of the axe. Use a mixture of the base colors for a consistent look. Lightning Effect (Optional): If desired, add a subtle lightning effect, particularly in darker areas. Use saturated colors with minimal highlights. Final Glazing: Use thinned down Ice Yellow (Vallejo) and Diarylide Yellow (Kimera Colors) or a similar mix for warm glazing over the highlights. Pure White Highlights: Add small dots of pure white paint at the brightest points of the shine spots for maximum impact. Video – Head, Eyes, Blood Gem Materials and Paints Needed: Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems. Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas. Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints. For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo) Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop) Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3) Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop) Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Details Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue. Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance. Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look. Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold. Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left. Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection. Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature. Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look. Video – Red Shoulder NMM Paints Needed Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Trollslayer Orange, Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Black Steps Base and Mapping: Start with Mephiston Red mixed with a small amount of black to map out where the shiny parts will be. Apply this mix to create the initial shape of the reflection on the shoulder pad. Building Layers: Use gradually lighter mixes of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet, adding Ice Yellow for the lighter tones. Focus on smooth layering to build up the red tones, paying attention to how light naturally reflects on a curved surface. Defining the Shine: For the brightest shine spot, use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Ice Yellow from Games Workshop. Apply these colours carefully to create a realistic reflection effect. Painting the Gold Trim: Start with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide for darker areas. Progressively mix in Trollslayer Orange and Ice Yellow for brighter sections. Ensure a smooth transition between the red of the shoulder pad and the gold trim to maintain a cohesive look. Adding Additional Reflections: Insert additional shine spots in both the red and gold areas for more depth and realism. Use stippling techniques to create a diffused yet shiny highlight on the brightest parts. Be mindful of the shape and direction of these additional reflections to maintain consistency with the light source. Final Touches: Use a mix of Mephiston Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet for the final glazes to enhance the vibrancy of the red. Add final highlights with the lightest mix of Ice Yellow and white for the brightest points. Refinement: Go back and refine any areas as needed, especially the transitions between highlights and shadows. Add intricate details such as reflected light on the gold trim to enhance the NMM effect. Tips Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint-to-water ratio to around 60% water for smoother application and finish. Reflection Logic: Consider the shape of the shoulder pad and how light interacts with it. Use a lamp to guide your reflection placement. Edge Highlights: Be careful with edge highlights; ensure they are consistent with the overall light reflection and texture of the surface. Patience and Layers: Build up the layers gradually for a smooth transition. This is crucial for achieving a realistic NMM effect. Stippling Technique: Use stippling in the brightest areas to create a diffused highlight, adding depth and realism. Harmonizing Colours: Ensure the reds and golds complement each other, keeping the overall look cohesive. Reflective Details: Consider adding subtle reflective details in surrounding areas, like reflected red light on nearby silver parts, to enhance realism. Rest and Review: Sometimes stepping away from the model and returning with fresh eyes can help spot areas needing refinement or a different approach. More Tutorials to Explore If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight (Fish Head!)

This video shows how to paint the Cities of Death Arch Knight from the Freeguild Command Corps. The colours are selected to achieve an aquatic feel to match the style of the armour and are painted using NMM (Non-Metallic Metal) The set was sent to me for review by Games Workshop. How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Sotek Green Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Heavy Blackgreen P3: Morrow White Top Tips on How to Paint Cities of Death Arch Knight Choosing the Axe: If you prefer the look of the axe over the hammer, go for it. The lack of specific details on the axe allows for creative freedom in painting a fancy cutting blade. Colour Scheme: Opt for a green, blue, and turquoise colour scheme to complement the fish theme. Use paints like Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and Vallejo Heavy Blackgreen for reflections. Mapping Highlights with Vallejo Neutral Grey: Begin by mapping out highlight points using Vallejo Neutral Grey. This will serve as a base for the non-metallic metal style. Blocking In: Use a larger brush initially, like a size 3, for quick blocking of colours. This helps cover large areas efficiently, but be aware it may result in a more translucent finish. Layering Colours for Non-Metallic Effect: Layer Sotek Green mixed with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for the non-metallic effect. Adjust the mix for a gradual transition and blend as needed. Reflective Surfaces and Angles: Consider the angles and reflective surfaces carefully. Downward-facing parts should reflect the chosen colours, but keep in mind the realism of the light source and its impact on reflections. Focus on Head, Chest, and Shoulder Area: Concentrate on painting the head, chest, and shoulder areas. This not only emphasises the most interesting parts of the model but also guides the viewer’s attention. Highlighting Techniques: Use careful brush marks for highlights, especially on intricate shapes like the fish helmet. Sharp, harsh brush marks can create a textured and reflective surface. Balancing Reflections and Colours: Strike a balance between the upward-facing and downward-facing reflections. Consider the colour wheel for harmonious combinations, avoiding overly contrasting colours. Refining and Detailing: The refining phase is crucial. Continuously refine and add details to elevate the model’s overall finish. This process can take the model from a basic finish to a Golden Demon standard with dedication. More NMM Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus tips and PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

Free Video Tutorial: Alchemite Warforger (Short version)

Here is the shorter version of my Alchemite Warforger video, which is available to watch on here or Youtube for free. For more detail, check out the longer version! The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, XV88.Vallejo: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral GreyP3: Morrow White Grass: Mininatur Spring Moss Pads Step-by-Step Guide to the Alchemite Warforger Preparation: Assemble your Cities of Sigmar Alchemite Warforger model from the Cities of Sigma box set. Prime the model with black primer. Omit the cube with smoke for easier painting (add it back when you’ve painted the model!) Helmet Painting: Use XV88 to block in highlights for a bronzy colour on the helmet. Apply the paint loosely with a size 2 Artist Opus brush, focusing on where light naturally falls. Thin the paint to around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint for easy layering. Metal Painting: Use a gray base colour (Neutral Gray or Mechanicum Standard Gray) for most steel-colored objects. Optionally, add colour with Daemonette Hide for a purpley-gray tone. Apply the paint loosely and scribbly to create texture. Use smaller brushes for refined marks in specific areas. Consider adding Daemonette Hide and Slaanesh Gray for additional colour on metal pieces for reflections. Leather Parts: Base the leather apron and other leather parts with Rhinox Hide. Apply the paint loosely with a mix of around 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint. Keep the paint flowing with the shape of the sculpt for a harmonized look. Highlighting: Highlight the metal parts with Slaanesh Gray, applying smaller and more refined marks. For leather, use Mornfang Brown for additional layers, creating a distinct color difference. Glaze with Mourning Brown on top of the highlights for added contrast. For leather straps, use larger black marks at the edges and smaller marks towards the core. Skin Painting: Base the skin with Rhinox Hide and layer with Mornfang Brown. Highlight using the following sequence: XV88, Guardian Flesh Tone mixed with Baneblade Brown and a bit of white. Keep the skin texture smooth, differentiating it from the heavily textured leather. Final Details: Apply Verdigris to metal clasps for a weathered look. Add OSL (Object Source Lighting) with plain flesh tone for the rune effect. Optionally, use Rhinox Hide for a runic effect. Consider the placement of the cube with smoke for potential obstructions. Remember, these steps are a guide, and you can adjust them based on your preferences and painting style. Happy painting! More Full Character Tutorials Free Video Tutorials Free videos (for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to paint an Alchemite Warforger

This full video shows how to paint an Alchemite Warforger from the Cites of Sigmar, which Games Workshop sent to me as an early review copy.This guide will cover various techniques such as non-metallic metal effects (NMM), leather texture, and object source lighting (OSL). How to paint an Alchemite Warforger Video You’ll Need: Alchemite Warforger. A range of brushes (including a size 3 Artist Opus M brush). Paints from Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Daemonette Hide, Slaanesh Grey, Mephiston Red, Yriel Yellow, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone. Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, German Grey, Neutral Grey. P3 paint: Morrow White. Mininatur Spring Moss Pads for basing. Let’s Get Started: Base Coating: Initiate with a base layer of XV-88. This creates an ideal foundation for both gold and bronze non-metallic metal (NMM) effects. Apply these base colours in a relaxed manner; perfection isn’t the goal at this stage. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Bronze/Gold: Use a combination of XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and a touch of Rhinox Hide. Mix these colours in various ratios to achieve the desired NMM effect. Leather Textures: For the leather apron and straps, start with a base of Rhinox Hide. Then, build up the texture and highlights with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone, adding Morghast Bone for the lighter areas. Skin Tones: Begin with Mournfang Brown as the base for the skin. Gradually layer up the skin tones using a mix of Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone, finishing with lighter highlights. Object Source Lighting (OSL): For the glowing effects, such as the pot’s contents, start with Mephiston Red and build up to Yriel Yellow and Wild Rider Red for the intense glow. Detailing: Use Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide for the cooler tones, and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow and Neutral Grey for the metallic areas. German Grey can be used for darker shadows. Finishing Touches: Use Morrow White for the brightest highlights and final touches. The base can be detailed with Mininatur Spring Moss Pads to add a natural touch. Remember, painting is about building up layers and textures, so take your time and enjoy the process. Each layer adds depth and character to your Alchemite Warforger. Explore More of my Character Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Commander Dante Head, Eyes, Blood Gem

This video looks more at the head of Commander Dante and shows his Eyes, and Blood Drop as well as more NMM Gold of the face. Commander Dante is being painted as a Golden Demon entry. Video Tutorial: Commander Dante Head and Details Materials and Paints Needed: Fine Detail Brush: Crucial for precision work on small areas like eyes and gems. Magnification Tool (Optional): Can be useful for extremely detailed areas. Palette: Necessary for mixing and thinning your paints. Paints: For Gold Tones: XV-88, Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) Highlights for Gold: Troll Slayer Orange, Ice Yellow (Vallejo) Eyes Base Colour: Sotek Green (Games Workshop) Eyes and Gem Highlights: Morrow White (P3) Blood Gem: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop) Steps for Commander Dantes Head and Detail: Refining the Gold: Enhance the gold’s depth by adding more orange reflections, especially on the cheeks and ear muffs. This technique replicates the way gold reflects on gold, creating an orange hue. Eyes Detailing: Start with Sotek Green for the base. For the highlights, progressively mix in Morrow White with Sotek Green. Focus on the lower edge of each eye, adding more intense highlights near the tear duct and finishing with a small white dot at the back for a gem-like appearance. Blood Gem on Forehead: Use Mephiston Red as the base color for the gem. Apply Wild Rider Red on the lower right section to simulate light reflection within the gem. Mix a small amount of Morrow White with Wild Rider Red for the edge highlights, ensuring a realistic gem look. Layering for NMM Gold Effect: Apply layers of XV-88, Balor Brown, and Rhinox Hide, using the translucency of the paints to create depth and warmth in the gold. Troll Slayer Orange is key for achieving reflective properties and varied tones in the gold. Detailed Facial Features: Paint a dark line from below the nose over both lips down to the chin. This creates a division on the face, adding to the realism. Make sure the right side of the face is slightly lighter than the left. Fine Touches on Eyes and Gem: Ensure the eyes are fully covered in blue to maintain their vibrancy. For the blood gem, detail the top left of the gem with a sharp edge and a line running down, symbolizing light reflection. Reviewing and Balancing: Regularly step back to assess the overall look. It’s essential to balance the details with the overall aesthetics of the miniature. Assembling and Final Review: Once all the parts are painted, assemble the head and do a final review. Make any necessary adjustments for a polished look. Continue Painting Commander Dante! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Dantes Axe NMM and SENMM

This video shows how to paint the Dante’s axe using NMM or SENMM (Sky Earth Non Metallic Metal.) The video also covers some of the challenges of painting in hot weather! Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Wazdakka Red Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: A variety of sizes including 00 for fine details Palette: For mixing colours Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes Steps: Initial Blocking In: Start by applying a mix of Neutral Grey and Mournfang Brown at the lower part of the axe for the Earth section of SENMM. Above that, apply a mix of Sotek Green and Neutral Grey. However, this will be lightened later on for blending purposes. Lightening the Blue-Green Mix: Mix Ice Yellow with the Sotek Green and Neutral Grey mix to lighten it, allowing for smoother blending with the lighter colours in the middle. Painting the Upper and Lower Sections: Use various mixes of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow to create gradients and highlights. For the Earthy sections, use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide. Creating Specular Highlights: Apply Morrow White for the brightest highlights on the most raised edges. Be mindful of the light source and the reflective qualities you’re trying to achieve with NMM. Adding Lightning Effect: Use Wazdakka Red, gradually adding white for the lightning effects. Focus on creating dynamic, jagged lines emanating from the power nodes of the axe. Glazing and Smoothing: Use glazing techniques with lighter colours to smooth out transitions and refine highlights. Adjust the consistency of your glazes depending on the humidity and temperature of your painting environment. Final Touches: Refine the edges and any rough areas. If necessary, add more layers to enhance depth and realism. Tips: Paint Consistency: Adjust the paint consistency based on your environment. Hotter conditions may require more frequent watering of paints. Brush Care: Use a separate brush for mixing paints to preserve the tips of your detail brushes. Light Reflection: Constantly refer back to how light naturally interacts with metal surfaces to guide your highlight placement. Patience and Layers: Build up your layers gradually and allow each to dry before applying the next. Now, you’re all set to bring Dante’s axe to life with a stunning NMM effect that mimics the intricate play of light on metal surfaces! More NMM Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Vampire Lord

How to Paint a Vampire Lord from the Soulblight Gravelord Armies! This includes NMM shiny steel armour, face and hair, skeleton base tutorial plus a dripping gore-covered mace! Read on to watch the comprehensive set of How to Paint a Vampire Lord tutorials plus key steps, paints and materials guide. Quick Jump to: Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel ArmourPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ArmourVideo – How to Paint a Vampire NMM ShieldPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM ShieldVideo – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added GorePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory MaceVideo – Vampire Lord Face and HairPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and HairVideo – Skeleton Base Part OnePaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton BaseBuilding the BasePainting the BaseFinishing TouchesVideo – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton)Paints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton BasePainting the SkeletonPainting the SwordPainting the ClothAdding VegetationVideo – Simple Freehand DragonPaints and MaterialsStep-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon Video – How to Paint a Vampire Lord Steel Armour All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. Click the cog icon to choose speed, if I’m too fast or slow! Paints and Materials Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey: Used for mapping out highlights and base tones on the armour. Vallejo Ice Yellow: Applied for initial highlights, gives a warm, off-white effect. Games Workshop Mournfang Brown: Used sparingly for adding depth and richness in transitions. Games Workshop Abaddon Black: Thinned down and used for glazing to deepen shadows and smooth transitions. P3 Morrow White: For final bright highlights. Thinned down considerably for a subtle effect. Brushes: Fine Detail Brushes: Essential for applying precise highlights and for the stippling technique. I used the Artis Opus range, but any high-quality fine brush will work. Glazing Brushes: Preferably also with a fine tip, used for applying thinned down glazes of Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black. Primer: Ultimate Primer (Black): Used for priming the model before painting. Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Armour Preparation: Assemble the model but avoid gluing areas like the shield or head that might obstruct painting. Prime the model in black. For this, Ultimate Primer is a good choice. Base Layer: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey to map out highlight points on the armour. This colour is ideal for desaturated, steel-like effects. Light Direction and Armour Detailing: Consider the light source and how it hits the model. Focus on areas like the hip covers and rib cage, and map out light and reflections. The Neutral Grey will be useful for creating the base tones. Initial Highlights: Apply Vallejo Ice Yellow for the highlights. Despite its name, Ice Yellow will give a desaturated, warm white appearance, especially when applied thinly. This is perfect for adding a subtle warmth to the steel. Refining the Highlights: Use a stippling technique with Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, building up the texture and refining the highlights. Remember, this is a gradual process, and patience is key. Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown: Introduce Games Workshop Mournfang Brown sparingly at transition edges or darker areas for a richer tone. Be cautious not to overdo it, as too much brown can detract from the steel effect. Glazing for Smoothness: Thin down Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black with water (about 5-6 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply them as glazes. This step will help in smoothing out transitions and adding depth. Final Highlights with Morrow White: Use P3 Morrow White for final bright highlights. Ensure the white is thinned down and apply it very carefully to the highest points of the armour.Adjusting and Blending: Keep adjusting the highlights and shadows, blending the colours where necessary. This might involve going back and forth between the different shades to achieve a smooth transition.Finish and Review: Once satisfied, review the model under different lighting to ensure the non-metallic metal effect is consistent and realistic. Throughout this process, keep your paint thin and apply multiple layers for the best results. The key to NMM is patience and gradual building of layers. Remember, each step contributes to the overall metallic effect, so take your time and enjoy the process! Video – How to Paint a Vampire NMM Shield Paints and Materials Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Mephiston Red, Balor BrownVallejo: Neutral Grey, Ice YellowP3: Morrow White Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the NMM Shield Priming and Preparation: The shield should be primed black. The use of Ultramar Varnish is optional. Base Layering: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey, using scribbly strokes to create a rough and scratchy base.Add a darker grey mixture by blending Neutral Grey with Abaddon Black. This can be substituted with other dark greys like Vallejo German Grey. Creating Texture: Continue with Neutral Grey, making irregular, scratchy marks. These marks will contribute to a subtle textured look.Focus on building up layers and refining the texture. Highlighting:Apply a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow for initial highlights.Move to Ice Yellow, applying it thinly (1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to avoid a chalky finish.Apply the Ice Yellow in a stippling manner to refine the highlights and cover uneven areas.Painting the Dragon:Base the dragon with Mephiston Red.Create shadows by adding a small amount of Abaddon Black to Mephiston Red.For highlights, mix Mephiston Red with P3 Morrow White (or another white) and apply to raised areas and facets of the dragonGlazing and Refining: Use a heavily diluted mixture of Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, and P3 Morrow White for glazing.Apply the Mournfang Brown for a soft yellow-brown hue in certain areas.Use Abaddon Black to darken and dull areas and to create shadows.Use P3 Morrow White to soften and blend the highlighted areas. Adding Scratches and Imperfections:Add random scratch-like marks using a very light application for realism.Apply small white dots to suggest nicks and imperfections. Final Highlights and Adjustments:Go over the shield and dragon, adding final highlights and making adjustments as necessary.Focus on achieving a balanced look from different viewing angles. Painting the Trim: Paint the trim using a mix of Abaddon Black and Mephiston Red as a base.Layer with Balor Brown, and then add highlights with a mix of Balor Brown and Mournfang Brown.Add final edge highlights and details to match the overall lighting and contrast of the shield.Finishing Touches: Tidy up any rough edges or over-painted areas.Ensure that the shield’s various sections harmonize in terms of light and contrast.Remember to let each layer dry thoroughly before applying the next, and adjust the thickness of your paints with water to maintain control and avoid a textured buildup. Video – Non Metallic Metal Mace with added Gore Paints and Materials Primer: Black Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey Vallejo Black Vallejo Basalt Grey Vallejo German Grey Games Workshop Rhinox Hide Games Workshop Blood for the Blood God P3 Morrow White Brushes: Fine detail brushes Additional: Gloss varnish, super glue, fishing wire for gore effect Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Gory Mace Priming: The mace should be primed in black. Base Layering: Start with Vallejo Neutral Grey. This can be created with a mix of black and white. Use Pearl Grey Blue for slight colour variation, though this is optional. German Grey can also be added to the mix. Highlighting and Texture: Focus on picking out angles and curves on the mace. Ensure brighter parts on surfaces facing you, with darker shades on less visible parts. Use a combination of different greys to build up layers and create a realistic metal effect. Detailing: Pay attention to the many facets of the mace, including chamfered edges and curves. Use fine brushes for precision in highlighting these small, detailed areas. Glazing: Mix Rhinox Hide with a significant amount of water for a thin glaze. Apply this to mid-tones to shadows, avoiding the brightest highlights. This step enhances contrast and adds a hint of colour to the mace. Adding the Gore Effect: Attach thin strands of fishing wire to the mace using super glue to create dangling gore. Apply gloss varnish to the connection points for added strength and flexibility. Once the varnish is dry, cover the fishing wire with “Blood for the Blood God” paint. Ensure the gore effect is applied in a realistic manner, considering where blood would naturally accumulate and drip from the mace. Final Touches: Revisit any areas that need refining or additional highlights. Make sure the gore effect blends seamlessly with the painted mace. Allow all layers to dry completely before handling. Tips: Take your time with each facet of the mace; precision is key to a realistic look. Ensure your paint consistency is right for each step – thinner for glazing, thicker for opaquer details. Be cautious when applying the gore effect; it’s a focal point but shouldn’t overwhelm the detailed painting beneath. Video – Vampire Lord Face and Hair Paints and Materials Games Workshop: Calgar Blue, Cadian Fleshtone, Ushabti Bone, Yriel Yellow, Khorne Red, Mephiston RedVallejo: Neutral Grey, Black Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Face and Hair Painting the Face:Base Coat: Start with a base coat of Calgar Blue over the black primer. Expect poor coverage initially. Thin the paint with approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint. Apply 3-4 layers to achieve an opaque finish. Highlighting: Create a mix of 50/50 Calgar Blue and Cadian Fleshtone. Apply this mix to specific areas of the face, considering the natural light fall. Key areas include the forehead, cheekbones, and areas between the eyes and nose. This mix will start to give a flesh tone, retaining a hint of blue for the undead look. Further Detailing: Use Cadian Fleshtone and a mix of 50/50 Ushabti Bone and Cadian Fleshtone for additional highlighting. Focus on raised areas and consider how light interacts with facial features. Apply highlights gradually, using a heavily diluted mix for soft transitions. Eyes and Mouth: Paint the eyes and the inside of the mouth in black. This step ensures these areas are defined and helps balance the highlights on the face. Painting the Hair:Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey from Vallejo over the black primer. Switch to Khorne Red for a vibrant, contrasting colour to the skin. Thin the paint slightly and apply multiple coats for an even, opaque finish. Highlighting: Use Ushabti Bone to highlight the hair. Mix it with Khorne Red in varying proportions, increasing the Ushabti Bone content for brighter highlights. Focus on areas where light would naturally hit, creating a shiny, luxurious look. Glazing for Colour Depth: After highlighting, the hair may appear too desaturated. To bring back the richness of the red, glaze over the hair with a heavily diluted Mephiston Red. This step enhances the red colour while maintaining the shine. Final Touches on Hair: Optionally, add Abaddon Black to the corn red to create darker shades in the hair, increasing the depth and contrast. Video – Skeleton Base Part One Paints and Materials A skeleton figure from Warhammer Underworlds Warbands Milliput and Fimo (or slate pieces) Green stuff (50/50 mix of blue and yellow) Super glue Sand (variety in particle size, not sharp sand) PVA glue (diluted with water) Base brush (flat Games Workshop brush or equivalent) Neutral Grey (Vallejo), Deathworld Forest, Morghast Bone, Agrax Earthshade, Athonian Camoshade, Astronomicon Grey (Games Workshop) Water for thinning paints Rock material guide by the fantastic Julien Casses:https://www.juliencasses.com/2012/11/how-to-make-rocks Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Skeleton Base Building the Base Prepare Skeleton: Start by preparing your skeleton figure, ensuring it has a ‘rising from the ground’ appearance. Create Stone Slabs: Mix Milliput and Fimo, bake at 120°C for 30 minutes, then break into slabs to represent stones. Alternatively, use slate pieces. Attach these slabs to the base with super glue. Apply Green Stuff: Mix blue and yellow Green Stuff and use it to create a ridge around the skeleton, giving the illusion of a hole from which the skeleton emerges. Embed the Vampire Lord’s rock into the Green Stuff to integrate it with the base. Add Texture: Sculpt some small, round rocks using Green Stuff for added detail. Sand Application: Cover the base in beach sand, avoiding sharp sand. Use various particle sizes for a natural look. Painting the Base Seal Sand: Brush diluted PVA glue over the sand to seal it and prevent flaking. Base Colour for Sand: Dry brush the entire base with Deathworld Forest, focusing on sandy areas. Highlighting Sand: Apply a lighter dry brush of Morghast Bone to the sand for highlights. Defining Rocks: Use Agrax Earthshade as a thick glaze around the sculpted rocks to define their shapes. Enhancing Greenery: Apply Athonian Camoshade to enhance the green tones on the base. Rock Painting: Begin detailed painting on rocks using Neutral Grey. Focus on highlighting angles and adding scratchy details for texture. Additional Rock Highlights: Use Pelgrave Blue, potentially mixed with white, to highlight rocks further. Remember not to overpower the model with the base’s contrast. Enhancing Edges: Add lighter edges around rocks using Astronomicon Grey to define shapes. Finishing Touches Consider adding other details like small flowers or greenery to the base. Reflect these colours onto the Vampire Lord for cohesion. Ensure the base matches the quality and style of your painted model. Video – Skeleton Base Part Two (Painting the Skeleton) Paints and Materials Paints: XV-88, Balor Brown, Moot Green, Deathworld Forest, Ushabti Bone, Mournfang Brown, Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop); Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Black (Vallejo); Iosen Green, Morrow White (P3) Mininatur Moss Pads and Flowers Water for thinning paints Brushes with fine tips PVA Glue Jeweler’s tweezers Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for Painting the Skeleton Base Painting the Skeleton Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with white paint, thinned down. Apply 2-3 layers for an opaque finish. Avoid overloading to prevent the paint from pooling. Adding Color to Eyes: Use Pro Acryl Golden Yellow (or any similar yellow) around the edges of the eye sockets, leaving the back white to mimic a light source. Then, use Moot Green, thinned down, around the yellow, ensuring smooth transitions. Skeleton Bone: Use XV-88 to paint the skull and bones. Apply the paint thinly and unevenly to create a natural, weathered look. Emphasize areas where light would naturally hit, based on the light source direction. Highlighting Bone: Apply Ushabti Bone for highlights, focusing on raised areas and edges. Keep the paint thin for a smooth finish. Additional Details: Add small scratches or battle damage marks for realism. Final Highlights on Bone: Use white (Morrow White) for the final highlights on the most raised areas. Painting the Sword Base Colour: Use Neutral Grey to paint the entire sword, including the hilt and blade. Weathering: Add Mournfang Brown to the blade for a rust effect, focusing on recessed areas and pitted holes. Highlighting the Blade: Use Pale Grey Blue for highlighting and adding scratchy details, focusing on areas that would catch light. Rust Details: Add Trollslayer Orange in the deepest recesses for an inverted highlight effect. Refining Highlights: Go back with Neutral Grey and Pale Grey Blue to refine the highlights and add more detail to the weathered look. Painting the Cloth Base Layer: Apply Deathworld Forest over black primer, focusing on raised folds and areas that would catch light. Highlighting: Use Balor Brown for further highlights, keeping the paint very thin to maintain a dark, grubby appearance. Adding Vegetation Applying Moss Pads: Use PVA glue to attach Mininatur Moss Pads around the base. Utilize jeweler’s tweezers for precise placement. Adding Flowers: Integrate white flowers from Mininatur for additional detail. Trim if necessary to avoid overpowering the base. Adding Roots: For an emerging effect, glue small roots around the skeleton, bending them to create a natural look. Dry Brushing: Gently dry brush Balor Brown over the moss pads to integrate them with the base and add depth. Video – Simple Freehand Dragon Paints and Materials The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, White Step-by-Step Guide and Tips for the Freehand Dragon Prepare the Surface: Begin by roughly painting the inside of the shield with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide from Games Workshop. These paints should be heavily thinned with approximately two parts water to one part paint. Use a large brush, like a size 2 artist opus brush, for quick and broad coverage. This base coat doesn’t need to perfectly match the shield’s front colour, as it will largely be covered. Apply Texture: The texture on the back of the shield differs from the front to differentiate it from the armor. Apply the paint in a scratchy manner to simulate wear and tear. For this, use Neutral Grey from Vallejo, mixed with Ice Yellow for highlights, and German Grey for darker areas. Remember, this part doesn’t have to be perfectly blended, as some roughness adds character. Glazing: If needed, glaze over the scratchy texture with more diluted Rhinox Hide and German Grey. Glazing helps to soften the texture and can hide any imperfections in the painting. Freehanding the Dragon: When painting the dragon, start with a reference photo of the dragon design on the shield’s front. This helps maintain consistency across the model. Use Vallejo Model Color Black for the dragon outline, ensuring the paint is well-diluted for fine lines. Brush Selection: Use a fine brush for detailed work. A worn-out brush might not give the sharp lines needed for intricate details. A newer, sharper brush is recommended for finer details and corrections. Highlighting the Dragon: Start with Neutral Grey for initial highlights. For more pronounced highlights, mix Neutral Grey with Ice Yellow, leaning more towards Ice Yellow for brighter highlights. Apply these highlights only to the upper edges of the dragon design, where light would naturally catch. Adjusting for 3D Effect: Paint the inside of the dragon with a darker grey, such as a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey, to create depth and avoid a flat black appearance. Final Touches: Add fine highlights to the dragon, especially along the edges and raised areas, to enhance the 3D effect. Use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow for the brightest points. Be mindful of the shield’s orientation to ensure that highlights correspond to the light source. Painting the Shield Trim: Finally, paint the shield’s trim, likely in a gold or metal colour. This trim frames the dragon and gives a polished look to the shield, enhancing the overall appearance. More Vampire Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire

A series for how to paint an Askurgan Exemplar from the Warcry Bloodhunt box, who I painted as part of my Commended Golden Demon Entry for 2023. Because it’s a Demon entry, the techniques will be very in-depth and very precise!In these videos you will learn how to paint his undead skin, red robes and rope, NMM metals on his weapon and armour, horn effect on his trophy rack and lots of other little tips and tricks. Read on to explore them along with paints, materials and step by step help. How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part One: Face, Arm and ShoulderMaterials and PaintsPainting the SkinNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) on ArmourAdditional TipsHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part Two: Red Robes, Hair and RopeMaterials and PaintsPainting Red RobesTechnique and BrushworkPainting HairPainting the RopeNon-Metallic Metal Effect on CollarOther TipsHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 3: Sword Blade, Gold Sword Hilt and Hip ArmourMaterials and PaintsBase CoatingPainting the RopeHip ArmourSword Blade and HandleDetailing and Finishing TouchesEdge Highlighting and RefinementHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 4: Trophy Rack and HornsMaterials and PaintsTrophy Rack Horns How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 5: NMM SwordPaints and Materials RequiredBase Coat and HighlightingBlade Edge DetailingFlat Blade SurfaceReflections and HighlightsEdge HighlightsRefining and Adjusting HighlightsFinal TouchesHow to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Dirt On His RobePreparing to PaintAdding Depth with Mournfang BrownFinishing Touches with Balor BrownGeneral Tips for an Authentic EffectMore Undead and Vampire Tutorials to Explore! How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part One: Face, Arm and Shoulder All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints Paints: Games Workshop (Sotek Green, Cadian Fleshtone, Kislev Flesh, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet), Vallejo (Toxic Yellow, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black), Two Thin Coats (Dark Sun Yellow – optional) White Paint: Schmincke White Brushes: Size 00 and other fine brushes for detailed work Painting the Skin Base Colour: Mix Sotek Green with Cadian Fleshtone for a warm, turquoise green. This will be your base colour for the skin, providing a unique look while not being too dark. Building Highlights: Progressively lighten this mixture by adding more Kislev Flesh, and Toxic Yellow from Vallejo for higher highlights. The aim is to create a series of progressively lighter shades, leading up to a final mix of Toxic Yellow, Kislev Flesh, and Schmincke White for the brightest highlights. Application Technique: Use a very thin consistency (about 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint). Apply with a size 00 brush, focusing on upwards-facing surfaces and muscles for a natural look. Remember, the key is to layer thinly and build up the colour gradually. Detailing the Face: For the vampire’s face, focus on defining sharp features while maintaining a natural appearance. Use the lightest colour mix for the highest points like the brow ridges and cheekbones. The eyes are painted black with Yriel Yellow for the irises, positioned such that the upper eyelid slightly covers the iris. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) on Armour Chest Armour: Begin with a base of Mournfang Brown. For highlighting, use a mix of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow, progressively adding more Ice Yellow for brighter areas. Paint the armour’s detailed features like fangs and textures with care, incrementally building up to white for the highest highlights. Shoulder Armour: Start with Neutral Grey, building up highlights towards the top where the light naturally hits. Add reflections and finer details, creating a smooth transition from light to dark. Use Mournfang Brown, thinned down, for adding tonal variation and depth. Gold Details: Utilise a combination of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow (or Balor Brown) for the base of gold areas. Highlight with Ice Yellow, and for the brightest spots, use a mix of Ice Yellow and Schmincke White. Be sure to maintain the gold’s richness by not over-highlighting with white, thus keeping the metallic effect. Additional Tips Glazing: Use glazes (thin, transparent layers of paint) to smooth out transitions between colours, especially on the gold and armour sections. Edge Highlighting: On the armour, especially the shoulder guards, use edge highlighting to define shapes and enhance the metallic appearance. Reflections and Light Sources: Be mindful of the environment’s impact on reflections. Vary the reflections on different parts of the armour to create a more dynamic and realistic look. Detailing and Textures: Pay attention to the texture of each surface. For instance, the vampire’s skin should have a smooth finish, while the armour can have a more textured appearance. Consistency Across the Unit: If this model is part of a unit, ensure consistency in the painting style and colour scheme across all models, while allowing for individual variations. One of the reasons I believe I missed out on a trophy with my vampires is because I made them all much too unique and they didn’t look like they were part of the group. Cohesion and lore accuracy is very important for Golden Demon! I talk about this a bit more in my Golden Demon 2023 video, here. Anyway, sorry, back to the model..! How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part Two: Red Robes, Hair and Rope All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints Games Workshop Colours:Rhinox Hide: A deep brown, used as a base for the red robes.Mournfang Brown: Utilized in creating non-metallic gold effects and for darkening rope.Mephiston Red: Employed to enrich the red highlights.Evil Sunz Scarlet: A vibrant red for brighter highlights.Wild Rider Red: Used very sparingly for the highest red highlights.Balor Brown: Mixed with other colors for non-metallic gold effects.Karak Stone: The base for the rope.Skeleton Horde (Contrast): Applied for shading and depth on the rope. Vallejo Colours:Toxic Yellow: Mixed for non-metallic gold effects and for rope detailing.Ice Yellow: Used in similar contexts as Toxic Yellow.Neutral Grey: A base for light grey hair and for mixing higher highlights.German Grey: Mixed with Neutral Grey for hair.Black: Used for various detailing and mixing. Other Materials:Schmincke White: An artist’s acrylic paint used for the highest highlights, particularly in the hair. Painting Red Robes Base Coat: Start with Rhinox Hide. Despite its brown tone, it’s essentially a deep red. Apply this as a base for the robe. First Highlight: Mix Rhinox Hide with Mephiston Red. This creates a richer, warmer red. Apply with a size 2 brush for broad strokes. Subsequent Highlights: Progressively lighten the red using Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red. Be cautious with Wild Rider Red, using it sparingly to maintain the robe’s red saturation. Technique and Brushwork Use a larger brush for the broader areas of the robe to achieve smooth, clean strokes. For finer areas, switch to a smaller brush for precise application and to highlight raised details and creases. Painting Hair Initially, aim for shiny black hair, but later shift to a light grey, matte finish. Use Neutral Grey mixed with white for higher highlights, painting in the direction of the hair’s texture. Be mindful of the hairline; avoid a stark contrast between the skin and hair. Aim for a subtle shadow effect. Painting the Rope Base coat the rope with Karak Stone. Use a larger brush to cover the area efficiently. Apply Skeleton Horde contrast paint for shading and depth. For texture, add tiny lines with a mix of Karak Stone and white, representing the rope’s fibres. Non-Metallic Metal Effect on Collar This segment is challenging due to its intricate texture. Use a mix of Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown, Toxic Yellow, and Ice Yellow to create a gold effect. Add white for the brightest highlights, focusing on the collar’s embossed details. Other Tips Throughout the process, maintain a balance between boldness and subtlety. The goal is to accentuate the model’s features without overwhelming its overall appearance. Key points to remember: Layering and Blending: The layering technique is crucial, especially for the red robes. Begin with dark tones and gradually build up to lighter hues, ensuring a seamless transition. Directional Brushwork: Align your brush strokes with the texture and direction of the materials you are painting, whether it’s the flow of the robes or the strands of hair. This approach enhances realism. Contrast and Focal Points: High contrast areas, like the non-metallic metal collar, should be approached with caution. Ensure they complement, rather than overpower, the focal points like the face. Texture and Detailing: The rope’s texture is a time-consuming but rewarding aspect. Those fine lines, while tedious, add a significant level of detail to the model. How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 3: Sword Blade, Gold Sword Hilt and Hip Armour All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials and Paints Games Workshop Colours: Rhinox Hide: A deep, dark brown, used for shading and creating gradients on elements like the rope and as a base for other colours. Mournfang Brown: Employed in non-metallic metal effects and to add depth to certain elements. Mephiston Red: A bright red, used for adding vivid highlights and details. Balor Brown: Mixed with other colours for non-metallic gold effects. Karak Stone: Used as a base colour for the rope. Skeleton Horde (Contrast): Applied for shading and to add depth, especially on the rope. Vallejo Colours: Ice Yellow: Mixed for creating highlights and for non-metallic gold effects. Neutral Grey: A base for grey tones and for mixing higher highlights. German Grey: Used in conjunction with Neutral Grey for various details. Black: Employed for shading and defining details. Other Materials: Schmincke White: An artist-grade acrylic paint used for the highest level of highlights. Base Coating Apply the base colours: Rhinox Hide for darker areas, Mournfang Brown for metallic parts, Karak Stone for the rope, and other base colours as required for different parts. Painting the Rope Apply Karak Stone as the base colour. Shade with Skeleton Horde (Contrast) to add depth. For weathering effects, use Rhinox Hide in a glaze consistency (about three parts water to one part paint) at the bottom of the rope. Hip Armour Paint the ropes in the armour with the same technique as the main rope. For the armoured plates (that resemble bones), start with a metallic base using Mournfang Brown. Create a non-metallic metal effect by gradually building up layers, transitioning to lighter colours like Balor Brown and then Ice Yellow. Include reflective highlights where light would naturally hit. Sword Blade and Handle For the sword blade, use Neutral Grey as a base, applying highlights where light would naturally reflect. Pay attention to any sculpted details like indents or edges, and enhance these with your highlights. The sword hilt is treated similarly, with a non-metallic gold technique. Start with Mournfang Brown, adding highlights and transitioning to lighter tones like Ice Yellow and White. For both the blade and hilt, remember to add glazes for smoother transitions. Detailing and Finishing Touches Enhance the gold sections (such as the bracelets and sword hilt) with Ice Yellow and White for bright highlights. For small details like rings or intricate parts of the armour, use precise brush strokes. Highlight the top edges and create contrast with darker shades in recesses. If necessary, use glazes (a thin mix of paint and water) to smooth out transitions and make the colours more cohesive. Pay attention to the consistency of the paint. It should be thin enough to flow smoothly but not so thin that it loses opacity. Edge Highlighting and Refinement Carefully apply edge highlights to the armor and sword, using lighter colors like Ice Yellow or White. This step brings out the details and gives a more three-dimensional appearance. For the sword blade, create the effect of light reflecting off the blade by adding thin lines and highlights. Remember to adjust the intensity based on the angle and curvature of the blade. Use a mix of Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, and White to create the non-metallic metal effect, building up to the brightest highlights where the light would be strongest. How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 4: Trophy Rack and Horns Materials and Paints Brushes: Size 2 M Artist Opus, Size 0 and 00 Paints: Games Workshop’s Rhinox Hide, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Skeleton Horde (Contrast); Vallejo’s Ice Yellow, Dead White Trophy Rack Base Coat Combine Rhinox Hide and Evil Sunz Scarlet in a 2:1 ratio Thin the mixture with equal parts water for a smoother application First Highlight Add Balor Brown to the base mix for a subdued pink tone Apply carefully, ensuring light effects align with the model’s other parts Additional Highlights Incrementally introduce more Balor Brown and a touch of Ice Yellow for brighter highlights Utilise the larger brush for expansive areas, switching to finer brushes for detailed texturing Detailing Filigree Employ a slender brush for precision Gently add lighter paint to intricate patterns, avoiding overly fluid paint Horns Begin with Ushabti Bone on a black base, requiring several layers for full coverage Typically, four coats achieve a solid foundation Gradients Gradually mix in Rhinox Hide with Ushabti Bone for shading Paint each segment, progressing towards the horn’s tip Texture Highlights Revert to Ushabti Bone for accentuating raised textures Apply using small wiggles and dots, extending into less detailed areas Horns – Finishing Touches Apply a significantly diluted Rhinox Hide for softening transitions Use Skeleton Horde Contrast for added depth and hue Final Notes Ensure uniform painting on all sides of the horns Balance detailed work with broader strokes for a unified, realistic appearance How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Part 5: NMM Sword This guide focuses on creating a realistic non-metallic metal (NMM) effect on a sword, employing careful layering and blending techniques to achieve a shiny appearance. Patience and attention to detail are key in this process. Paints and Materials Required Brushes: Various sizes for detailed work Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, German Grey, Black; Games Workshop Mournfang Brown Base Coat and Highlighting Start with Neutral Grey as the base colour Mix Neutral Grey with a small amount of Ice Yellow for the first stage highlight Progressively add Ice Yellow to the mixture for brighter highlights Use Ice Yellow with a touch of White for the brightest points Thin the paints appropriately for smooth application Blade Edge Detailing Focus on parallel line textures for the cutting blade edge Use horizontal and vertical strokes for diverse textural effects Emphasize the sharpness of the blade with these line details Flat Blade Surface Change brush marks on the flat blade surface for distinction Plan for coloured reflections, using Mournfang Brown as a glazing colour Reflections and Highlights Paint all reflections in grey tones before applying colour glazes Remember that the lower edge of the blade will reflect the ground, requiring a different treatment Use glazes to soften and blend reflections and highlights Edge Highlights Apply fine line highlights along the sharpest part of the blade Ensure these highlights are thin and precise for a realistic effect Refining and Adjusting Highlights Adjust and refine highlights as needed for balance and symmetry Use a mix of stippling and glazing techniques for smoother transitions Pay attention to the spine of the sword, adjusting the placement and intensity of highlights Final Touches Use glazes to smooth out textures, especially when working with lighter colours Consider the overall composition and aesthetic appeal when placing final highlights Ensure a unified and realistic look by balancing light and shadow How to Paint an Askurgan Exemplar Vampire Dirt On His Robe Paints Required Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Balor Brown Preparing to Paint Begin with Rhinox Hide: Apply at the very bottom of the robe. This colour blends well with the red robe, creating a subtle effect. As you move upwards, make the application more visible with small dots and splotches. This creates an impression of staining. Adding Depth with Mournfang Brown Switch to Mournfang Brown: This shade gives depth to the weathering effect. Initially, it might seem light but it darkens as it dries. If you find it too strong, you can tone it down with Rhinox Hide to soften the effect. The key here is to balance the intensity, ensuring it doesn’t overpower the base colour of the robe. Finishing Touches with Balor Brown Finalise with Balor Brown: This is a strong colour, so apply it cautiously. It’s significantly different from the previous colours and can make a bold impact. Focus on the very bottom of the robe, gradually building up a denser application of paint. Be mindful of areas near the highlights, such as near the foot of the robe at the front. Here, you might need to add more Balor Brown to counteract the brighter red tones. General Tips for an Authentic Effect Strive for unevenness: Avoid symmetrical or uniform patterns. Some areas should appear dirtier than others for a realistic effect. Control the paint consistency: Aim for a 50/50 mix of paint to water for optimal flow and control. This consistency allows you to work for an extended period without creating a heavy texture. Use a smaller brush: A smaller brush gives you more control, especially for creating uneven, chaotic patterns. Avoid pressing too hard to prevent large, unintended marks. Adjust for mistakes: If you apply too much paint, quickly rub it off with your finger. For smears, stipple over them with a bit of Rhinox Hide to create interesting marks. More Undead and Vampire Tutorials to Explore! Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the Freebies video page! [...] Read more...

How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters

How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters, which was sent to me as an early review copy from Games Workshop. Currently this includes his face, horns and hair to his shining red armour and NMM gold trim. You can watch the current tutorials in order by scrolling down, or quick jump to a specific technique, paints lists or tips by clicking on the options below: Video Part One: How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters Armour, Horns, Eyes, HairPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo Part Two : Red ArmourPaints and Materials UsedStep by Step GuideVideo Part Three : Bronze Trim on the Armour (NMM)Paints and Materials UsedStep by Step Guide Video Part One: How to paint the Khorne Lord Invocatus from the World Eaters Armour, Horns, Eyes, Hair All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop: Barak-Nar Burgandy, Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Sotek Green, XV-88, Balor Brown Vallejo: Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow optional) Two Thin Coats: White Star, Carcharodon Grey, Doomdeath Black Brushes: Fine detail brushes, larger brushes for smooth transitions. Palette: Wet palette recommended for paint mixing and consistency maintenance. Step by Step Guide 1. Priming: Prime the head using Ultimate Primer (black), thinned with airbrush thinner for a matte finish. 2. Armour (Red Parts): Basecoat the helmet with Barak-Nar Burgundy, extending slightly onto the horns for a color transition. Apply Mephiston Red over the burgundy for the true red areas. This serves as the key red tone. For highlights, carefully apply Evil Sunz Scarlet, followed by Wild Rider Red, ensuring the Mephiston Red remains visible for a true red effect. 3. Horns: Start with a dark mix of XV-88 and black, blending into the burgundy on the helmet. Gradually lighten towards the tips using XV-88 with diminishing amounts of black. Finish the tips with pure XV-88 and a touch of Morghast Bone, ensuring smooth transitions. 4. Eyes: Base the eyes with Sotek Green. Highlight with a mix of Sotek Green and White Star. Add final highlights using pure White Star, placed strategically for a realistic lens effect. 5. Hair: Begin with a base of Barak-Nar Burgundy. Gradually mix in White Star for highlights, focusing on the upward-facing sections. Aim for smooth transitions to mimic natural hair shine. 6. Metal Details: Use a mix of Doomdeath Black and Carcharodon Grey for base and mid-tones. Highlight with Carcharodon Grey and White Star. Add red reflections from the armor using the red tones previously mentioned. 7. Teeth: Use the grey mix (Carcharodon Grey with black, then pure Carcharodon Grey) for base and mid-tones. Highlight the teeth with White Star, considering the light source for realistic placement. 8. Leather Strips (Topknot): Base with Rhinox Hide. Layer with Dwarf Skin and Elf Skin (or similar tones like Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone). Glaze with thinned Mournfang Brown for added warmth. Video Part Two : Red Armour This video shows how to paint the red armour on the juggernaut of Khorne Paints and Materials Used The following paints were used: Vallejo Model Colour (new): Evil Red, Nocturnal Red Games Workshop: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red Two Thin Coats: White Star (Any white will do) Step by Step Guide 1. Base Layer: Begin by applying a base coat of Evil Red from Vallejo Model Colour. This hue is a dark burgundy or purple tone. It may necessitate several layers to achieve a consistent and opaque covering. 2. Initial Highlight: Use Nocturnal Red from Vallejo Model Colour for the first layer of highlights. This shade is a deep and rich red, offering more vibrancy compared to Evil Red, thus setting the stage for subsequent highlighting. 3. Main Highlights: Apply Evil Sunz Scarlet by Games Workshop for primary highlights. This brighter shade contrasts well with the darker base. For heightened highlights and a more textured finish, apply Wild Rider Red by Games Workshop to areas that would naturally catch more light. To create the textured effect, employ a small brush (such as size 00) and make small, scratchy, stipple-like marks on the armour, focusing on areas where light naturally falls. 4. Enhanced Highlighting and Blending: If the transition between Nocturnal Red and Evil Sunz Scarlet seems too abrupt, blend them by applying Nocturnal Red over the edges of the Evil Sunz Scarlet highlights. For the brightest points, mix Wild Rider Red with White Star (or any white paint) and apply cautiously. Excessive white can desaturate the red and diminish its intensity. Soften and merge the texture marks by glazing over them with thinned Nocturnal Red. 5. Refinement: Alternate between Nocturnal Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red to refine the texture and smoothly blend the highlights. Adjust the highlight intensity depending on the curvature and structure of the armour pieces. 6. Final Adjustments: Once content with the highlighting and texture, make any final tweaks necessary. This might involve reinforcing the deepest shadows or adding a final glaze to unify the colours. Technique Tips: Consistency is key. Ensure the paint is properly thinned for a smoother application. Build up the colours in layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next. Consider the light source and its interaction with the armour’s shape when placing highlights. For the textured effect, use just the tip of the brush with a gentle hand. Video Part Three : Bronze Trim on the Armour (NMM) This video shows how to paint the bronze trim on the juggernaut armour using NMM (Non Metallic Metal) The following paints were used: Paints and Materials Used Vallejo Model Colour (New): Gorgon Brown, Grunge Brown, Sunset Orange, Toxic Yellow Two Thin Coats: Doomdeath Black, White Star (and black and white will do) Step by Step Guide 1. Base Coat: Start by applying Gorgon Brown from Vallejo Model Colour. This colour serves as your base for the bronze trim. It’s a dark brown that’s not as red as Rhinox Hide but works well for this purpose. 2. Building the Colour: Next, apply Grunge Brown, also from Vallejo, to begin building up the bronze colour. This shade will act as a mid-tone in your NMM technique. 3. Adding Highlights: Use Sunset Orange from Vallejo Model Colour to start highlighting the raised areas of the trim. Blend it in at the sides with Grunge Brown for a smoother transition. 4. Mixing for Intermediate Shades: Create a mix of Grunge Brown and Sunset Orange (about 50/50) to create an intermediate shade. Use this to bridge the gap between the darker base and the brighter highlights. 5. Further Highlighting: Proceed with Toxic Yellow from Vallejo Model Colour for your next layer of highlights. This colour, akin to Ice Yellow, provides a nice, smooth application and gives a cooler yellow tone to your bronze. 6. Using White for Final Highlights: For the brightest highlights, mix a small amount of White Star from Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats (or any suitable white paint) with your highlight colour. Apply this sparingly to the most raised and reflective areas of the trim. 7. Refining and Adjusting: Go back and forth between your colours, adjusting the blends and refining the highlights. Remember, NMM is about creating the illusion of metal through contrast and careful placement of lights and darks. 8. Glazing for Saturation: If the colours lack saturation or depth, glaze over the mid-tones and shadows with a diluted Grunge Brown. This step adds richness and depth to the bronze colour. Technique Tips: Aim for smooth transitions between shades. Use glazing techniques to blend the layers seamlessly. Focus on the light source and how it would naturally hit the trim. The highest points should have the brightest highlights. For NMM, contrast is key. Don’t shy away from using dark shadows against bright highlights to mimic the reflective nature of metal. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz with Two Thin Coats (Duncan Rhodes) Paints!

This video shows you how to paint a Squigboss from the Gloomspite Gitz army for Age of Sigmar. The model was painted exclusively using Two Thin Coats paints.In this how to paint a Squigboss video, we’ll be doing something a bit different. I’ll guide you through the process of painting the Squig boss, generously sent to me by Games Workshop. Alongside, I’ll be reviewing a set of paints I personally purchased, intrigued by reviews—the Two Thin Coats series by Duncan Rhodes. These paints will exclusively adorn our Squigboss, and I’ve procured them independently. So, no sponsorships or freebies; it’s all about exploring these paints. Now, let’s get started! All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). The following paints were used:Two Thin Coats: Two Thin Coats: Doom Death Black, White Star, Etheral Green, Carcharodon Grey, Dark Sun Yellow, Skulker Yellow, Skeleton Legion, Demon Red, Scorched Earth, Dragon Fang, Boar Hide, Sanguine Scarlet, Dwarven Skin, Marine Blue, Orange Flare, Emerald Green, Wolf Grey, Fanatic Orange, Cuirass Leather, Berserker Red Tips on how to paint a Squigboss with these paints! Base Coat with Boar Hide Colour:Initiate with the “Boar Hide” shade, akin to Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, serving as the foundational coat for the entire Squig boss model. Non-Metallic Metal Gold Face Mask:I’ve gone for a non-metallic gold style for the goblin’s face mask, utilising the unique properties of the Duncan Rhodes Two Thin Coats series.Apply the same colours used for the face mask on the staff, creating a non-metallic metal effect. Note differences in technique for different areas. Adapting to Paint Properties:The paints seem quite nice to work with. Thinning is essential, however, and adapting to the colours’ strength becomes a creative challenge. Use Translucent Marks for Subtle Effects:Experiment with translucent or softer marks by thinning the paint more. This technique can be effective for creating subtle details but requires precision in application. Be Mindful of Paint Strength:As mentioned, the colour strength might be stronger than anticipated, so be cautious when adding subtle marks. Adjust as needed to avoid overpowering the model with vibrant colours. Varied Application Techniques:Explore different application techniques for varied textures and effects. The angular features of the model complement the paints’ adaptability very well and allows for creative highlighting and detailing Matte Finish and Dark Tones:Consider a matte finish for the model to achieve a pastel look. Embrace the dark and yellow tones for added depth and character. Diverse Colour Palette for Highlights:Incorporate a diverse colour palette, such as Dark Sun Yellow, for highlighting and detailing, providing a unique touch to gold and other elements. The matte finish and the richness these paints bring to dark and yellow tones is great. Quick Scratches and Detailing:Create quick, sharp scratches and detailing, adding interest to specific areas without the need for extensive blending. Quick and sharp detailing becomes a breeze with these paints, making them ideal for adding interesting detail without the need for laborious blending. Highlighting with Translucent White:Use translucent white for highlighting, applying small amounts to achieve a subtle effect. Ensure quick application to prevent drying before reaching the model. Colour Variations for Textures:Experiment with different colours for textures, adapting to the model’s features. Allow the varied palette to enhance details and bring out the intricacies. The paints are good at bringing out intricate details. Teeth Detailing:Detail the teeth with simple lines, complementing the skin fold creases. Use the extra detailing to fill spaces and add interest without smoothing transitions. Remember, the beauty lies in adapting and exploring the properties of the paints. Happy painting! Free Video Tutorials More free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Mummy, Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin.

This video shows you how to paint the Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull and Skin on a Blood Bowl Mummy. Video Tutorial – How to Paint the Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull and Skin All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Needed Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown Rhinox Hide XV-88 Balor Brown Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Death Korps Drab Hobgrot Hide (not recommended) Trollslayer Orange Paints (Vallejo): Ice Yellow Pure White Neutral Grey Brushes: Size 00 Artist Opus Brush (for detailed work) Size 2 Artist Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing) Other Materials: MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect) Step-by-Step Guide 1. How to Paint the Bandages: Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages. Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect. Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail. Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages. 2. How to Paint the Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold): Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base. Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect. Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades. 3. How to Paint the Clothing (Trousers/Pants): Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour. Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights. 4. How to Paint the Belt: Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour. Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick. 5. How to Paint the Skin: Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas. Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition. 6. How to Paint the Base and Finishing Touches: Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass. Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model. More of my latest videos: If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint an Ogroid Sword with NMM and Rust

This video and guide shows how to paint an Ogroid sword with NMM (non-metallic metal) and rusty effects. (Apologies for the dog hair) Video : How to Paint an Ogroid Sword with NMM and Rust All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!) Paints and Materials Paints Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown Troll Slayer Orange Fire Dragon Bright Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Ice Yellow Black German Grey Neutral Grey Pure White (Mecha Color) Brushes A range of brushes were used, including but not limited to: A fine detail brush (such as a size 0 or 00), used for detailed work and fine highlights. A larger brush (like a size 2), which can be useful for broader strokes and glazing. Other Materials Blue Tack: Used to temporarily attach the sword to the model for assessing lighting and highlight placement. Wet Palette: Essential for mixing and maintaining paint consistency. Water: For thinning paints, essential for techniques like glazing and stippling. Step-by-Step Basecoat and Shades: Start with a neutral grey, darkened slightly with black. Create a gradient of greys by mixing German Grey with Neutral Grey, and then adding Ice Yellow for various shades. This creates a series of warm greys for highlights. Use a wet palette to mix and maintain the paint consistency. Highlighting the Blade: Focus on creating a main shine spot on the curved part of the blade, as this area naturally catches more light. Add random reflections down the blade. Over-highlight initially as you will glaze over these later to reduce their intensity. Remember that the flat of the blade will be rusty, so avoid highlighting this area. Adding Details: Paint distinct blocks of highlights or reflections on the blade, especially around the curved section. Start with darker greys and layer up to lighter ones, finishing with Pure White for the brightest spots. Use vertical brush strokes for control and consistency. Rust Effects on the Blade: Stipple Mournfang Brown over the flat of the blade for a textured rust effect. Be random and uneven in your application. Layer Troll Slayer Orange over this, focusing on specific patches for an uneven and realistic rust effect. Optionally, use Fire Dragon Bright for the brightest rust highlights. Refining and Adding Scratches: Add scratches and chips using a mixture of Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow. Apply these details sparingly and randomly to avoid patterns. For added depth, add a line of a darker colour (like Rhinox Hide) above some of the scratches. Finishing Touches: Make final adjustments to the highlights and rust effects. Use glazing techniques to soften transitions and blend colours seamlessly. Be cautious with the use of white; too much can detract from the warm effect. More tutorials to explore! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy with weathered NMM bronze effects, bandages, clothing, NMM Skull and Skin! Scroll town to explore the two video tutorials in order, or quick jump to specific techniques and materials you might need. Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with VerdigrisPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze MummyVideo Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and BasePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideBandagesSkull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold)Clothing (Trousers/Pants)BeltSkinBase and Finishing Touches Video One – How to paint NMM Bronze with Verdigris All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Needed Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Sybarite Green, Gauss Blaster Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Pure White Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Blood Bowl Bronze Mummy 1. Priming and Base Coating: Start with the model already primed in black. Apply Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) roughly on the armour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. The application at this stage can be quite loose and liberal. 2. Layering for Texture: Proceed with XV-88 (Games Workshop), this time being more careful and refined in your brushwork. Focus on creating a weathered texture, interpreting the previous layer’s marks as damage or wear. Use the very tip of the brush for finer lines and stippling. 3. Detailing with Lighter Tones: Use Balor Brown (Games Workshop) to further enhance the details. At this stage, focus on the edges, rivets, and any other raised details on the armour. Remember, the aim is to create a three-dimensional effect, highlighting the lower edges of dents or imperfections to create depth. 4. Highest Highlights: Introduce Ice Yellow (Vallejo) for the brightest parts of the armour. Apply it sparingly and only on the most raised areas to create the illusion of light reflecting off metal. Be cautious with this step to maintain a realistic metallic look. 5. Glazing for Depth: If needed, mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with water to create a glaze. Apply this over areas that are in shadow or need to be toned down. This step helps integrate the highlights and creates a more cohesive look. 6. Applying Verdigris: For the verdigris effect, use Sybarite Green and Gauss Blaster Green (both Games Workshop). Thin these paints down considerably. Apply them mainly in recessed areas, joints, and crevices where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Avoid covering the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen. Technique Tips: Work in layers, building up from dark to light to create depth and realism. Focus on where light naturally hits the model, creating highlights that follow the form and curvature of the armour. In the verdigris step, less is more. It’s easier to add more verdigris effect than to remove it, so start with a light application and build up as neede Video Two: Bandages, Clothing, NMM Skull, Skin and Base All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Paints and Materials Needed Paints (Games Workshop): Mournfang Brown Rhinox Hide XV-88 Balor Brown Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Death Korps Drab Hobgrot Hide (not recommended) Trollslayer Orange Paints (Vallejo): Ice Yellow Pure White Neutral Grey Brushes: Size 00 Artis Opus Brush (for detailed work) Size 2 Artis Opus Brush (for broader strokes and glazing) Other Materials: MiniNatur Moss Pads (for the base grass effect) Step-by-Step Guide Bandages Base Layer: Start with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) as a base layer for the bandages. Main Colour: Apply Balor Brown (Games Workshop) over the bandages. It’s recommended to use this instead of Hobgrot Hide for better coverage and a more desired effect. Highlighting: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone (both from Games Workshop) for highlighting. Focus on creating lines parallel to the bandages’ direction, paying special attention to the upper edges around the face for more detail. Shadows and Grubby Effect: Apply a thinned down Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) in shadowed areas and to add a grubby effect to the bandages. Skull (Non-Metallic Metal Gold) Base Layer: Use Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base. Layering: Progressively layer with Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow (Vallejo), and Pure White (Vallejo). Each layer should be smaller than the previous, creating a bright highlight effect. Refinement: Feather the edges of each layer for a smooth transition between shades. Clothing (Trousers/Pants) Base Colour: Mix Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) with Neutral Grey (Vallejo) and apply as the base colour. Texture and Highlight: Create a scratchy, rough texture using a mix of Rhinox Hide, Grey, and Ice Yellow (Vallejo). Add white to the mix for final highlights. Belt Base Layer: Apply Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) as the base colour. Detailing: Use Trollslayer Orange (Games Workshop) for the detailing, ensuring the paint is not too thick. Skin Base Layer: Use Death Korps Drab (Games Workshop) as the base layer for exposed skin areas. Highlighting: Gradually add white to Death Korps Drab for highlighting, focusing on the knuckles, fingertips, and muscle definition. Base and Finishing Touches Grass Application: The base is painted with Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) and decorated with MiniNatur Moss Pads for grass. Final Adjustments: Ensure the consistency of the lighting and colour theme across the model. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

How to Paint Horus Head, Red Glow, Armour, NMM Trim

This video shows how to paint Horus Ascended from the Horus Heresy. The video looks at his skin, the red osl glow around his head, the armour and the NMM armour trim. Video: How to Paint Horus – Part One All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Yriel Yellow, Sons of Horus Green, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Balor BrownVallejo: Ice Yellow, Black, Neutral Grey P3: Morrow White Steps and Tips Assembly and Preparation:Assemble the model but leave the wolf pelt, cloak, and head unattached for ease of painting.Carefully address any mould lines on the mace, ensuring a clean finish.Utilise a heat gun to reshape the wolf pelt for an accurate fit on the model. Priming:Prime the model thoroughly and allow it to set overnight. Base Painting:Begin with a base coat of Mephiston Red, particularly on areas destined for the red glow (Object Source Lighting, OSL). Apply this in a brisk and relaxed style, without focusing on blending. Building the Glow:Layer Wild Rider Red and Troll Slayer Orange, concentrating on recesses to enhance the glow effect.Incorporate Yriel Yellow for added brightness in the OSL areas. Head Details:For the head, apply Cadian Fleshtone as a base to simulate natural lighting.Layer with Bugman’s Glow to establish depth and realistic skin tones.Highlight the forehead and areas receiving the main light with a mixture of Cadian Fleshtone and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow for a pronounced highlight. Armour Details:Start the armour with a base of Sons of Horus Green.For depth, mix Sons of Horus Green with black for shadowed areas, and with Ice Yellow for highlighted regions. Metallic Effects:For non-metallic metal effects on trims and details, commence with XV-88 as a base.Progressively apply layers using Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, and Balor Brown, accentuating edges and raised details to mimic a metallic sheen.Employ Vallejo’s Neutral Grey for areas resembling steel or iron. Finishing Touches:For ultimate highlights and refinement, use P3’s Morrow White. More Character Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.

If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray

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How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour – Vampire Mount

Video: How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour – Vampire Mount

Paints and Materials Used

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Preparation

2. Base Colour

3. Rough Highlight Placement

4. Midtone Highlights

5. Bright Highlights

6. Orange Reflective Tones

7. Fine Detailing

8. Light Placement & Golden Angle

9. Glazing and Smoothing

10. Optional Glazing for Highlights

Final Notes on How to Paint Red-Gold NMM Armour

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