An Adeptus Titanicus Knights Guide.
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More Adeptus Titanicus Tutorials!
Titans
In this guide, we’ll explore how to paint marble armour effect on the armour of an Adeptus Titanicus Legio Gryphonicus Titan.
This technique creates a visually striking pattern that mimics the speckled and veined appearance of marble, adding depth and interest to your miniature’s armour plating. The process is designed to be quick and straightforward and uses some unexpected materials!
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord with Marble Armour
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials List:
Airbrush: Essential for applying smooth base coats and gradients.
Hand disinfectant wipes or baby wipes: Used to create the marble effect.
Paints:
Vallejo Pale Grey Blue: For the initial base coat.
Vallejo Neutral Grey: To begin creating the marble effect.
Vallejo Dark Grey (German Grey): For adding darker veins to the marble.
Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown: Base colour for yellow armour sections.
Games Workshop Phalanx Yellow: For highlighting yellow armour sections.
How to Paint Marble Armour Step-by-Step Guide:
Base Coat:
Begin by airbrushing Vallejo Pale Grey Blue onto the carapace of the Titan. This may require a few coats to achieve a smooth finish. The paint can be thinned a bit, but not excessively, to ensure good coverage without too much speckling.
Preparing the Wipe:
Take a hand disinfectant wipe or baby wipe and stretch it out so it’s slightly spread and thin. This texture will be transferred to the armour to create the marble effect.
Applying the Wipe:
Lay the stretched wipe over the armour part you’ve just painted. Ensure it’s not too densely applied; the idea is to leave some areas exposed more than others for a varied marble effect.
Adding Darker Tones:
Airbrush Vallejo Neutral Grey over the wipe-covered armour. Keep the airbrush pressure low to avoid displacing the wipe. Focus more on the edges and less on the centre to mimic natural shading.
Without completely covering the previous layer, lightly apply Vallejo Dark Grey in a few select areas to create the appearance of darker veins within the marble.
Revealing the Effect:
Carefully remove the wipe to reveal the marble armour effect beneath. You’ll find areas of light and dark grey creating a naturalistic marble pattern.
Cleaning Up:
After removing the wipe, there may be strands left on the model. Take your time to clean these off to avoid them becoming permanently attached in later steps.
Painting Yellow Armour Sections:
For Legio Gryphonicus’s iconic grey and yellow scheme, base coat the relevant armour sections with Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown. Highlight these areas with Games Workshop Phalanx Yellow to achieve a vibrant, contrasting look against the grey marble armour.
All of my War Griffons Warlord Tutorials
War Griffons Warlord
All of my series of quick videos on the different techniques used on this model. These include the marble effect, the stripes, applying decals and weathering.
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I’m excited to share my journey of painting the Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, a majestic model sent to me by Games Workshop. My focus is to highlight the crucial role of airbrushing in bringing this titan to life with the vibrant colours of the Legio Astorum, also known as the Warp Runners.
Watch the Video
The Importance of Airbrushing: Airbrushing is a game-changer in miniature painting, offering unparalleled smoothness and efficiency. It’s especially valuable when painting large models like the Iconoclast Titan, where traditional brushing might fall short. The fluidity of airbrush paints, like Vallejo’s Metal Color series, is perfect for both airbrushing and regular brushwork.
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black
Initial Steps: Before diving into painting, it’s essential to prepare the model. I left off the armor plates of the titan to separately paint the skeleton with metallic colours and the armor panels with the distinctive Warp Runner scheme.
Airbrushing Techniques:
Base Coating: Starting with Vallejo’s Burnt Iron, I applied the base coat to the skeleton. Despite being formulated for airbrushing, its fluid nature worked well with a large, soft brush for a non-textured finish.
Detailing with Copper: For the hips, I used Games Workshop’s metallic colour, applying it straight from the pot. This step required multiple thin coats for a consistent finish.
Creating Verdigris Effects: I used oil paints to simulate the verdigris effect on the copper parts. Stippling the paint onto the model, I focused on crevices and rivets, where oxidation naturally occurs.
Oil Washes: An overall wash of oil paints, mixed with spirits, added depth to the metallic parts. This technique requires patience, as it’s essential to allow the wash to dry completely, typically 24 hours.
Highlighting with Chrome: Vallejo’s Chrome, another airbrush-focused paint, was used for highlights. Its liquid consistency demanded careful application to avoid flooding recessed areas.
Colouring the Armor Panels: The real challenge and joy of airbrushing came alive while painting the armor panels. I started with Night Lords Blue, followed by Macragge Blue, both thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner. The process involved covering entire panels with the darker blue, then focusing on upper sections and curves for the lighter blue, creating a pleasing visual gradient.
Stripe and Flame Patterns: For detailed patterns like stripes and flames, I relied on masking techniques and freehand painting. Tamiya tape helped in creating crisp, clean lines for stripes, while freehanding flames allowed for a more organic and fitting look on the armor panels.
Applying Decals and Weathering: After the base colours and patterns, I applied decals for additional detailing. This step required a steady hand and patience, especially when dealing with folded decals. Weathering was achieved with oil paints, enhancing the realism of the titan.
Final Touches: Matte varnishing the model brought all elements together, providing a uniform look and protecting the paint job. For the trim, I chose to paint it with Scale 75’s Necro Gold, followed by weathering and sealing with a matte varnish.
Airbrushing the Iconoclast Titan was a rewarding experience, showcasing the versatility and efficiency of this painting method. The ability to layer colours, create gradients, and apply washes and weathering with ease made airbrushing an indispensable tool in my painting arsenal. Whether you’re a seasoned veteran or a beginner, incorporating airbrushing into your miniature painting can elevate your models to new heights.
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This free video shows how to paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan for the Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) from the Adeptus Titanicus game.
The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Night Lords Blue, Calgar Blue, Mephiston Red, Balor Brown, Hashut Copper, Yriel YellowVallejo: Dark Sea Grey, White, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Gold, Metal Colour Chrome, Mecha Gloss VarnishScale 75: Necro GoldAmmo: Ultra-Matt Lucky VarnishWinsor and Newton: Sansodor mineral spirit, oil colour Black, oil colour Burnt Sienna Badger: Ultimate Primer Black
Steps to Follow on How to Paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan
Preparing the Model
Build the Model: Assemble your Warmaster Iconoclast Titan, leaving off the armour plates for separate painting. This allows easier access to the skeleton for painting in metallic colours.
Painting the Skeleton
Base Coat in Metallic: Start with Vallejo Metal Colour Burnt Iron applied with a large soft brush or a dry brush for a smooth metallic base on the skeleton.
Detailing with Copper: Use Games Workshop Hashut Copper for the hips and other details, applying multiple coats as necessary for even coverage. Thin with water if the paint is too thick.
Verdigris Effect: Mix oil paints on cardboard to create a light green verdigris colour. Stipple this onto the copper parts with an old brush, focusing on crevices and rivets. Thin with white spirit for a more natural effect.
Weathering the Metal
Oil Wash: Create an oil wash with black and burnt sienna oil paints thinned with mineral spirits. Apply over the entire metal skeleton, excluding verdigris areas, to add depth and an oily finish.
Highlighting: Highlight edges and raised details with Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome for a sharp contrast.
Painting the Armour Panels
Base Coat in Blue: Airbrush the panels with Games Workshop Night Lords Blue, followed by highlights with Calgar Blue focusing on upper sections and curves.
Detailing Stripes and Flames: For striped areas, use Tamiya masking tape and Vallejo Dark Sea Grey. For flames, start with Balor Brown as a base, building up to lighter tones and finally white for the hottest parts.
Applying Decals: Use Forge World or Games Workshop decals for additional detailing, sealing them with Microset or Microsol. I’ve put a link to another free video on how to do that, below!
Final Weathering: Apply oil washes for weathering effects, focusing on creating streaks and grime accumulation that fits with the battlefield-worn look.
How to Apply Forge World Decals and Weather Them
A beginners guide on how to apply Forge World decals and weather them so they look a natural part of the painting on your model. Painting and applying decals to your models adds significant details and realism, making it stand out during tabletop gaming. It’s also a lot easier than freehand! I still use decals a lot in my models, despite also enjoying freehand work.
Watch and Read Now
Finishing Touches
Painting Trim and Details: Use Scale 75 Necro Gold for gold trim, applying carefully around edges and details. For a brighter highlight, apply Vallejo Metal Colour Gold.
Matte Varnish: Seal the entire model with an ultra-matte varnish to tie together the different finishes and protect the paintwork.
Optional Ribbon Streamers: Create custom ribbon streamers from plastic card, painted and detailed to match the Titan’s colour scheme, adding dynamism and a personalised touch to your model.
Additional Tips
Always thin your paints to ensure smooth application and avoid obscuring fine details.
When working with oil paints for weathering, allow ample drying time between layers to prevent smudging.
Use a hairdryer to speed up drying times cautiously, avoiding too much heat on plastic parts.
Experiment with lighting and colour modulation on the armour panels for a dynamic appearance.
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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This video is a kit review for a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan that Games Workshop sent me and I have painted. I also include a link to one of my free videos on how I painted mine!
Key Features of the Warmaster Iconoclast Titan
Versatile Weaponry and Heads: Games Workshop introduces two distinct weapon options and a variety of five head configurations. A notable limitation, however, is the ability to construct only one head. The inclusion of a power claw with an alternative drill bit allows for some customisation in armament, though.
Navigating Pose Challenges: I found it a little tricky achieving dynamic poses. The intricacies of armour panel fitting, particularly on the legs, pose challenges in pose customisation. I would recommend that you conduct dry fittings before finalising your pose for your titan!
Commendable Kit Quality: Despite the pose-related challenges, the overall quality of the kit is great. Noteworthy features include movable pistons, adaptable leg positions, and individually cut-out toe sections.
Pondering Painting Nuances: With a model this large and complicated, it’s going to take you a while to paint, although there are some corners you can cut! The detailed trim on the armour will especially take you time, however. You can watch my free tutorial on how I painted him, which has some great tips on getting some great looks, quicker.
Additional Attributes: The kit incorporates banners, although I opted for bespoke creations. A noteworthy feature is the option to magnetise certain components, allowing flexibility for potential future releases or personalised variations.
In summary, the Warmaster Iconoclast Titan Kit stands out for its overall excellence! Now, why not paint yours along with me in this free video?
Warmaster Iconoclast Titan in Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) colours
This video shows how to paint a Warmaster Iconoclast Titan for the Legio Astorum (Warp Runners) from the Adeptus Titanicus game.
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This video tutorial shows How to Paint a Legio Fureans Reaver (Tiger Eyes) from the Adeptus Titanicus game. I’ve done it as a gaming piece, but I’ll be doing a Warlord for a potential Golden Demon entry.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
Materials and Paints:
Paints from Games Workshop (Yriel Yellow, Flash Gitz Yellow, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Magos Purple Contrast, Technical Stormshield, Corvus Black, Sotek Green, Rhinox Hide), Vallejo (Dark Sea Grey, German Grey, Black, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Chrome, Ice Yellow, White), and Scale 75 (Necro Gold).
Oil Colours: Winsor and Newton’s Sansodor mineral spirit, Black, and Burnt Sienna.
Primer: Badger Ultimate Primer in Black.
Airbrush: Infinity CR Plus, set at about 30-35 PSI.
Additional Tools: Mixing cups, a selection of brushes and a magnifying headset.
Step-by-Step Guide:
Priming: Start with a base coat of black primer.
Airbrushing the Carapace:
Dilute Yriel Yellow with Vallejo airbrush thinner. Apply several coats for a solid finish.
Optionally, start with a base of XV-88 for a quicker yellow hue.
Add depth with Mournfang Brown in recessed areas.
Reapply Yriel Yellow for a smooth blend.
Highlight the edges with Flash Gitz Yellow.
Mix a bit of Mournfang Brown with Yriel Yellow for a gentler transition.
Trim Painting:
Apply Necro Gold, thinned down to about a 50/50 mix with water.
Add depth with a wash of Aggrex Earthshade.
Detailing with Black Flames:
Hand-paint black flames using Model Color Black. Start with simple S-curves, then refine.
Applying Decals:
Apply a gloss varnish, then the decals with microset.
Seal with matt varnish after drying.
Oil Weathering:
Apply Burnt Sienna oil paint for realistic streaking effects.
Scratches and Dents:
Use Rhinox Hide for scratches, followed by Ice Yellow on the lower edges for a 3D effect.
Highlighting and Shading Trim:
Reapply Necro Gold, then blend with Vallejo Chrome for brighter highlights.
Use Wild Wood contrast paint for shading.
Main Structure Painting:
Stipple on Burnt Iron metallic colour.
Add depth with a Magos Purple wash, followed by a diluted Mournfang Brown wash.
Painting the Head and Lenses:
Start with a black base, then layer up highlights with German Grey and Dark Sea Grey.
Glaze over with Corvus Black to tone down and blend highlights.
Paint the lenses with Sotek Green and white highlights.
Finishing Touches:
Apply final weathering, varnishing, and any additional detailing as needed.
Richard’s Pro Tips:
Patience is key when airbrushing. Build up the layers gently for a more professional finish.
Experiment with brush strokes and blending to achieve your desired effect.
Each miniature is a canvas for creativity – don’t be afraid to add your own flair!
Always thin your paints for smoother application and a more refined look.
Take breaks! Detail work can be taxing on the eyes and hands.
More Free Video Tutorials
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
This video shows you how to create a Titan Martian Base, a Martian red landscape for your Adeptus Titanicus Titan, or for any large model you like, really!
Video Tutorial: Titan Martian Base
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints and Materials Used
Fimo and Milliput: For making rock shapes.
Baking Soda: For creating the fine-grained surface texture.
Paints:
Scale 75’s Antares Red
Scale 75’s Red Leather (or similar Games Workshop red and brown colours)
Games Workshop’s Deathworld Forest
Games Workshop’s Ushabti Bone
Weathering Powders:
Forge World’s Aged Rust
Forge World’s Orange Rust
Matte Varnish: For sealing the base.
Tools:
Brushes for painting and dry brushing.
Sculpting tools or a flat surface for applying the baking soda mixture.
Airbrush for applying weathering powder (optional).
Other Materials:
Water: For mixing with weathering powders.
Super Glue: For securing rocks to the base.
Q-tip: Slightly damp, for cleaning up excess weathering powder.
Step by Step Guide
Preparing the Base: Start by placing your model on the base and arrange rocks around it. Use rocks made from a mixture of Fimo and Milliput, baked and then broken into shapes.
Creating the Surface: Mix baking soda (for fine texture), Scale 75’s Antares Red and Red Leather paint (or similar GW paints), and matte varnish to form a sticky, wet-looking substance. This creates the dusty, Martian surface.
Applying the Surface Mixture: Carefully apply the mixture to the base, ensuring it’s pushed up against the rocks. Use a large, slightly damp brush to stipple and smooth out the mixture, avoiding unnatural marks.
Using Cracking Paint: Apply a thin layer of Martian Ironearth cracking paint for subtle cracking effects. Ensure it’s not too thick to maintain the scale’s integrity.
Painting the Rocks: Once dry, paint the rocks with Vallejo Model Color Black or a similar black paint. Then dry brush with GW Deathworld Forest for initial colour, followed by Ushabti Bone for highlights.
Applying Weathering Powder: Mix Forge World Aged Rust and Orange Rust powder with a lot of water, and spray over the base using an airbrush. Focus on the lower parts of the model for a realistic effect. For manual application, use a large, soft brush.
Cleaning Up: After the weathering powder dries, use a slightly damp Q-tip to remove excess powder from the rocks and lower sections of the Titan, enhancing the details and textures.
Final Touches: Seal the base with a matte varnish to preserve the dusty look and reduce the brightness of the orange rust effect.
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This video shows how to paint the metal and weathering effects on the legs of the Adeptus Titanicus Titan. Enhancing the metalwork, particularly the armour trim and skeletal structure, to achieves a detailed and realistic finish that looks fantastic on the battlefield. We’ll be using a mix of Games Workshop, Vallejo, and Forge World paints to bring our Titan to life.
Video: How to Paint Weathering and Metal on an Adeptus Titanicus Titan
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints
Games Workshop:
Agrax Earthshade
Wyldwood (Contrast)
Contrast Aggaros Dunes
Forge World:
Aged Rust (Weathering Powder)
Vallejo Metal Colour (Airbrush Ready):
Victorian Brass (Scale 75 for an alternative base colour)
Magnesium
Gold
Chrome
Winsor & Newton:
Water Mixable Oil Colour Burnt Umber
Brushes
A fine detail brush for applying precise highlights and for controlled application of contrast paints and weathering powders.
A medium brush for applying base coats and larger areas of colour.
A soft, large brush for applying washes and for dusting off excess weathering powders.
I use the Artis Opus range of brushes, but any good quality brush is recommended.
Step by Step – Weathering and Metal on the Adeptus Titanicus Titan
Preparing the Armour Trim
Base Coat: Begin with a base coat of Scale 75 Victorian Brass over the trim. This provides a solid foundation for subsequent layers.
Initial Shading: Apply Contrast Aggaros Dunes over the Victorian Brass to introduce depth and shading to the trim. This step should have been completed in earlier stages of the model’s painting process.
Enhancing the Trim
Adding Depth: Use Games Workshop’s Wyldwood contrast paint to darken recesses and joints in the trim. The high contrast between the dark recesses and the metallic brass creates visual interest and depth. Apply the paint selectively to areas that would naturally accumulate shadow.
Highlighting: Vallejo Metal Colour Gold is used to highlight the edges of the trim. Due to its fluidity, it provides a smooth application but be mindful of its runniness. Lightly touch the edges with a fine brush to catch the raised areas.
Painting the Skeleton
Base Layer: Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium serves as the base layer for the Titan’s skeletal structure. Its liquidity ensures it flows well into recesses but exercise caution to prevent pooling.
Weathering: Apply Forge World’s Aged Rust weathering powder mixed with water to the skeletal structure for a grimy, rusted effect. Focus on areas that would naturally collect dirt and rust, maintaining a balance to avoid obscuring details.
Sealing the Weathering: Once dry, seal the weathering with a mix of Agrax Earthshade. This reactivates and fixes the weathering powder, giving a durable and realistic rust effect.
Detailing Pistons and Metal Accents
Chrome Pistons: Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome is applied to pistons for a bright, reflective finish. Multiple thin layers may be needed for uniform coverage.
Oily Effects: Windsor and Newton’s Water Mixable Oil Colour Burnt Umber is used to simulate oil and grime on pistons and mechanical parts. Dilute with water for a manageable consistency and apply at joints and moving parts for a realistic oily effect.
Finishing Touches
Reichland Fleshshade Glaze: Optional, but can be used to add warmth to metal parts, particularly useful on brass or gold trims to simulate reflected light or heat staining.
Highlighting and Cleaning Up: After applying weathering and shading, go back to highlight edges and clean up any overspill with your base metallic colours. This step sharpens details and enhances the overall contrast of the model.
Techniques and Tips
Trim Detailing: Use the fine detail brush with Vallejo Metal Colour Gold to highlight the edges of the trim, applying the paint carefully to avoid spillage onto other areas.
Skeleton Base Layer: Apply Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium with a medium brush, ensuring even coverage and avoiding pooling in recesses.
Weathering Powder Application: Mix Aged Rust with water in the well palette and apply with a large brush, targeting recesses and areas where rust would naturally accumulate.
Chrome Pistons: Use Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome, applying multiple thin layers as needed for a smooth, reflective finish.
Oily Effects: Dilute Winsor & Newton Water Mixable Oil Colour Burnt Umber with water and apply at the tops of pistons and around mechanical parts to simulate oil and grime.
Watch all the tutorials for my War Griffons Warlord!
War Griffons Warlord
A series of quick videos on the different techniques used on this model. These include the marble effect, the stripes, applying decals and weathering and metal.
Watch Now
Free Video Tutorials
Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
In this tutorial, we’ll cover how to achieve a dynamic heat bloom effect on a Melta Cannon for an Adeptus Titanicus Reaver Titan, specifically for the Legio Gryphonicus, also known as the War Griffins. This effect will simulate the intense heat generated by the weapon, using a gradient of colours to represent the heat bloom.
Video: How to Paint a Melta Cannon Heat Bloom
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials Needed:
Airbrush and Thinner: For applying smooth gradients of colour.
Brushes: A fine detail brush for precise application and a dry brush for highlighting.
Paints:
Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium (for the metallic base).
Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome (for highlighting metallic areas).
Scale 75 Victorian Brass (for trim detailing).
Games Workshop Contrast Paints: Iyanden Yellow, Magos Purple, Talassar Blue (for the heat effect).
Games Workshop Contrast Aggaros Dunes (for additional trim detailing).
Melta Cannon Step-by-Step Guide:
Base Coating the Weapon:
Begin by airbrushing the Melta weapon’s recesses with Averland Sunset, ensuring the weapon’s holes face directly towards the airbrush to prevent uneven shading. Don’t worry about overspray on the weapon casing; this will be covered later.
Adding Initial Heat Glow:
Switch to Troll Slayer Orange and apply over the Averland Sunset, creating a gradient effect from the weapon’s recesses outward. Ensure even coverage without tilting the airbrush to maintain consistency across the recesses.
Masking for Overspray:
To prevent overspray on adjacent yellow armour panels, use masking tape or modelling putty. This step is crucial for maintaining clean lines and avoiding accidental paint transfer.
Metallic Base Coat:
Paint the metallic parts of the weapon with Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium, carefully avoiding the recesses to maintain the glow effect. This creates a solid base for subsequent detailing.
Trim Detailing:
Apply Scale 75 Victorian Brass to the weapon’s trim, followed by a coat of Games Workshop Contrast Aggaros Dunes to add depth and dimension to the detailing.
Heat Bloom Effect:
Begin the heat bloom effect by airbrushing Iyanden Yellow halfway along the Melta Cannon barrel, avoiding the recesses. Layer Magos Purple over the Iyanden Yellow, leaving some yellow visible for a blended effect. Finish with Talassar Blue, applying it over the Magos Purple but not covering all the previous layers, creating a transition from yellow to deep blue.
Highlighting and Finishing Touches:
Dry brush Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome on the non-painted metallic areas to enhance the metallic sheen. Carefully highlight the lower edges of the weapon with Chrome using a normal paintbrush, accentuating the heat bloom’s impact.
Final Assembly:
Once all painting is complete, remove any masking materials and assemble any remaining parts of the Titan, paying attention to aligning the heat bloom effects correctly.
This technique for painting a heat bloom on a Melta Cannon adds a visually striking element to your Adeptus Titanicus Titans, emphasizing the weapon’s power and the heat it generates. The use of contrast paints over a metallic base allows for a vibrant, dynamic effect that stands out on the battlefield
Watch all the tutorials for my War Griffons Warlord!
War Griffons Warlord
A series of quick videos on the different techniques used on this model. These include the marble effect, the stripes, applying decals and weathering.
Watch Now
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
A tutorial on how to freehand paint a skull onto a clear surface, in this case the shoulder of a Titan.
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials Required
Your miniature for the freehand to be painted on! Mine is a Warlord Titan,
Brushes (various sizes, including a size 0 for fine details)
Vallejo Model Color Black
Games Workshop paints: Rhinox Hide, Ceramite White, Balor Brown, Ushabti Bone, Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red
Vallejo paints: Pale Grey Blue, Dark Sea Grey
Step 1: Preparing the Area
Begin with a flat area on your model. Make sure it is clean and free of any mould lines, dirt or grease.
Apply a black primer base, then airbrush layers of grey, a glaze of purple, and grey again to create a dynamic background.
Step 2: Sketching the Freehand Design
Start by blocking in the rough shape of a skull in the centre. Use Vallejo Model Color Black for strong coverage and a matte finish. Ensure the initial shape is smaller so you can adjust the size as needed without difficulty.
Step 3: Adding Details as You Freehand Paint a Skull
Add the eye sockets and nose hole, focusing on making the skull slightly asymmetrical to add interest.
Use Rhinox Hide to block in shadows and define the shape of the skull, especially around the cheekbones and beneath the eye sockets.
Step 4: Refining the Skull
Gradually build up the skull’s details using a mix of Balor Brown and Ushabti Bone. This process involves adding highlights and shadows to create depth and texture.
Pay attention to the top-down lighting, ensuring the highlights and shadows correspond to this light source.
Step 5: Painting the Blindfold and Chains
Paint the blindfold using Mephiston Red, ensuring it wraps realistically around the contours of the skull.
For the chains, start with Vallejo Model Color Black to outline the shapes, then use Pale Grey Blue and Dark Sea Grey to add highlights and shadows, creating a metallic look.
Step 6: Finishing Touches
Use Ceramite White for the highest highlights, focusing on areas like the forehead and teeth to enhance the skull’s dimensional effect.
Apply small amounts of shading and texture throughout the skull to refine its appearance.
Step 7: Adding Atmospheric Effects
To give the skull a darker, moodier feel, consider using a water mixable oil color like burnt umber around the edges and in the recesses. This step is optional but can add a significant impact to the final look.
Remember, the key to successful miniature painting, especially when dealing with freehand designs, lies in patience, practice, and attention to detail.
More Freehand Tutorials
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A series of quick videos on how to paint a War Griffons Warlord Adeptus Titanicus Titan to game standard. This included marble effects, stripes, weathering and decals and more!
Scroll down to explore the videos in order, or use the quick links below to jumps to a technique or part of the model in particular:
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Marble EffectMaterials List:Marble Armour Step-by-Step Guide:Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : The StripesMaterials Needed:The Stripes Step by Step:Additional Tips:Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Weathering and DecalsMaterials Needed:Steps:Preparing the Surface:How to Apply the Forge World Decals:Sealing the Decal:Weathering the Decal and Armour:Additional Tips:Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Heat Bloom on Melta CannonMaterials Needed:Melta Cannon Step-by-Step Guide:Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Weathering and Metal PaintsStep by Step – Weathering and Metal on the War Griffons WarlordPreparing the Armour TrimEnhancing the TrimPainting the SkeletonDetailing Pistons and Metal AccentsFinishing TouchesTechniques and TipsMore Titan Tutorials!
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Marble Effect
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials List:
Airbrush: Essential for applying smooth base coats and gradients.
Hand disinfectant wipes or baby wipes: Used to create the marble effect.
Paints:
Vallejo Pale Grey Blue: For the initial base coat.
Vallejo Neutral Grey: To begin creating the marble effect.
Vallejo Dark Grey (German Grey): For adding darker veins to the marble.
Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown: Base colour for yellow armour sections.
Games Workshop Phalanx Yellow: For highlighting yellow armour sections.
Marble Armour Step-by-Step Guide:
Base Coat:
Begin by airbrushing Vallejo Pale Grey Blue onto the carapace of the Titan. This may require a few coats to achieve a smooth finish. The paint can be thinned a bit, but not excessively, to ensure good coverage without too much speckling.
Preparing the Wipe:
Take a hand disinfectant wipe or baby wipe and stretch it out so it’s slightly spread and thin. This texture will be transferred to the armour to create the marble effect.
Applying the Wipe:
Lay the stretched wipe over the armour part you’ve just painted. Ensure it’s not too densely applied; the idea is to leave some areas exposed more than others for a varied marble effect.
Adding Darker Tones:
Airbrush Vallejo Neutral Grey over the wipe-covered armour. Keep the airbrush pressure low to avoid displacing the wipe. Focus more on the edges and less on the centre to mimic natural shading.
Without completely covering the previous layer, lightly apply Vallejo Dark Grey in a few select areas to create the appearance of darker veins within the marble.
Revealing the Effect:
Carefully remove the wipe to reveal the marble effect beneath. You’ll find areas of light and dark grey creating a naturalistic marble pattern.
Cleaning Up:
After removing the wipe, there may be strands left on the model. Take your time to clean these off to avoid them becoming permanently attached in later steps.
Painting Yellow Armour Sections:
For Legio Gryphonicus’s iconic grey and yellow scheme, base coat the relevant armour sections with Vallejo Heavy Goldbrown. Highlight these areas with Games Workshop Phalanx Yellow to achieve a vibrant, contrasting look against the grey marble.
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : The Stripes
This guide will take you through the process of painting and weathering the stripes to achieve a battle-worn effect, ensuring your titan stands out on the tabletop.
Materials Needed:
Scale 75 Victorian Brass (For the trim)
Tamiya Masking Tape (3mm strips recommended for precision)
Games Workshop Kantor Blue (For the base stripe colour)
Vallejo Ultramarine Blue (For highlighting the stripes)
Vallejo Neutral Grey (For weathering)
Vallejo Pale Grey Blue (For weathering)
Airbrush and airbrush thinner (Vallejo Airbrush Thinner recommended)
Fine detail brush for weathering
The Stripes Step by Step:
Prepare the Trim:
Begin by painting the trim of the carapace using Scale 75 Victorian Brass. This step should ideally be done after painting the stripes to avoid overspray, but if you prefer to paint it first, be prepared to touch it up later.
Masking for Stripes:
Apply Tamiya masking tape to the carapace to create the desired pattern for your stripes. Ensure the tape is firmly pressed down, especially near the edges and armour trim, to prevent paint from bleeding underneath.
Base Colour for Stripes:
Airbrush Games Workshop Kantor Blue over the masked areas. The paint should be thinned appropriately and applied in even coats to achieve an opaque finish. Be mindful of overspray on the trim.
Highlighting Stripes:
After the base colour dries, apply Vallejo Ultramarine Blue as a highlight. Focus on the raised edges and ridges to create a gradient effect, ensuring some Kantor Blue remains visible for contrast.
Removing Masking Tape:
Carefully peel off the masking tape to reveal crisp, clean stripes. This step is highly satisfying and reveals the neat lines that define the pattern.
Weathering the Stripes:
Using a fine detail brush, apply Vallejo Neutral Grey and Pale Grey Blue to simulate chips and wear on the stripes. Focus on areas that would naturally see more wear and tear, breaking up the clean edges of the stripes to create a more realistic, battle-worn look. Use the colours that match the underlying marble effect for a cohesive appearance.
Finishing Touches:
Optionally, go back over the trim with Victorian Brass to clean up any overspray from painting the stripes. This will ensure a neat and polished look.
Additional Tips:
The choice of stripe colour can vary; red or hazard striping are also effective options.
The weathering step is crucial for adding realism. Smaller, more concentrated damage marks enhance the scale effect, making the titan appear as a massive war machine.
Keep the weathering consistent with the overall wear on the rest of the titan for a unified appearance.
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Weathering and Decals
This step-by-step guide, designed to be beginner-friendly, will walk you through applying decals, adding a gloss finish for protection, and executing weathering techniques to give your titan a battle-worn appearance.
Materials Needed:
Vallejo Gloss Varnish
Water for softening decals
Micro Sol and Micro Set for decal application
Tamiya 3mm Masking Tape or equivalent
Games Workshop Kantor Blue
Vallejo Neutral Grey, Ultramarine Blue, and Pale Grey Blue for weathering
Games Workshop Matte Varnish
Fine detail brushes
Airbrush (optional for varnishing)
Forge World Decals for Legio Gryphonicus
Steps:
Preparing the Surface:
Apply Gloss Varnish: Begin by applying Vallejo Gloss Varnish to the areas where decals will be applied. This creates a smooth surface, reducing air pockets and imperfections. You can apply the varnish with a brush or an airbrush. If brushing, slightly dilute the varnish with water for easier application.
How to Apply the Forge World Decals:
Soften Decals in Water: Cut out your chosen decals and soak them in water until they easily slide off the backing paper. This typically takes a few minutes.
Apply Micro Sol: Place a small amount of Micro Sol on the model where the decal will be applied. This softener helps the decal conform to the model’s surface.
Position the Decal: Carefully slide the decal from the paper to the model. Use a soft brush to adjust its position accurately.
Remove Excess Water: Gently dab a soft, dry brush or a paper towel to remove any excess water and air bubbles beneath the decal.
Apply Micro Set: Once the decal is in place, apply Micro Set over it. This solution helps soften the decal further, allowing it to snuggle down into the model’s details. Let it dry thoroughly, ideally overnight. Don’t worry if the decal looks wrinkled at this stage; it will smooth out as it dries.
Sealing the Decal:
Apply Additional Gloss Varnish: After the decal has dried, apply another layer of gloss varnish over it using an airbrush for an even coat. This step helps to seal the decal and even out the surface. If necessary, apply 2-3 coats, allowing each to dry thoroughly.
Matte Varnish Finish: Once the gloss varnish is completely dry, apply a matte varnish over the entire model to give it a uniform, non-glossy finish. This also helps to further blend the edges of the decal into the model.
Weathering the Decal and Armour:
Weathering with Paint: Use Vallejo Neutral Grey and Pale Grey Blue to add weathering around the decals and on the armour. Use a fine detail brush to apply small chips and scratches, focusing on edges and areas that would naturally see more wear. This adds realism and depth to your titan.
Additional Weathering Techniques: For further realism, you can add streaks and rust effects using diluted paint or weathering powders. Apply these sparingly in areas where water and dirt would naturally accumulate and streak down the model’s surface.
Additional Tips:
Take your time with each step, especially when applying and positioning the decals.
Always allow each layer of varnish and paint to dry completely before proceeding to the next step.
Practice weathering techniques on a spare piece before applying them to your model to get a feel for the effect.
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Heat Bloom on Melta Cannon
Materials Needed:
Airbrush and Thinner: For applying smooth gradients of colour.
Brushes: A fine detail brush for precise application and a dry brush for highlighting.
Paints:
Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium (for the metallic base).
Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome (for highlighting metallic areas).
Scale 75 Victorian Brass (for trim detailing).
Games Workshop Contrast Paints: Iyanden Yellow, Magos Purple, Talassar Blue (for the heat effect).
Games Workshop Contrast Aggaros Dunes (for additional trim detailing).
Melta Cannon Step-by-Step Guide:
Base Coating the Weapon:
Begin by airbrushing the Melta weapon’s recesses with Averland Sunset, ensuring the weapon’s holes face directly towards the airbrush to prevent uneven shading. Don’t worry about overspray on the weapon casing; this will be covered later.
Adding Initial Heat Glow:
Switch to Troll Slayer Orange and apply over the Averland Sunset, creating a gradient effect from the weapon’s recesses outward. Ensure even coverage without tilting the airbrush to maintain consistency across the recesses.
Masking for Overspray:
To prevent overspray on adjacent yellow armour panels, use masking tape or modelling putty. This step is crucial for maintaining clean lines and avoiding accidental paint transfer.
Metallic Base Coat:
Paint the metallic parts of the weapon with Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium, carefully avoiding the recesses to maintain the glow effect. This creates a solid base for subsequent detailing.
Trim Detailing:
Apply Scale 75 Victorian Brass to the weapon’s trim, followed by a coat of Games Workshop Contrast Aggaros Dunes to add depth and dimension to the detailing.
Heat Bloom Effect:
Begin the heat bloom effect by airbrushing Iyanden Yellow halfway along the Melta Cannon barrel, avoiding the recesses. Layer Magos Purple over the Iyanden Yellow, leaving some yellow visible for a blended effect. Finish with Talassar Blue, applying it over the Magos Purple but not covering all the previous layers, creating a transition from yellow to deep blue.
Highlighting and Finishing Touches:
Dry brush Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome on the non-painted metallic areas to enhance the metallic sheen. Carefully highlight the lower edges of the weapon with Chrome using a normal paintbrush, accentuating the heat bloom’s impact.
Final Assembly:
Once all painting is complete, remove any masking materials and assemble any remaining parts of the Titan, paying attention to aligning the heat bloom effects correctly.
Video – How to Paint a War Griffons Warlord : Weathering and Metal
Paints
Games Workshop:
Agrax Earthshade
Wyldwood (Contrast)
Contrast Aggaros Dunes
Forge World:
Aged Rust (Weathering Powder)
Vallejo Metal Colour (Airbrush Ready):
Victorian Brass (Scale 75 for an alternative base colour)
Magnesium
Gold
Chrome
Winsor & Newton:
Water Mixable Oil Colour Burnt Umber
Step by Step – Weathering and Metal on the War Griffons Warlord
Preparing the Armour Trim
Base Coat: Begin with a base coat of Scale 75 Victorian Brass over the trim. This provides a solid foundation for subsequent layers.
Initial Shading: Apply Contrast Aggaros Dunes over the Victorian Brass to introduce depth and shading to the trim. This step should have been completed in earlier stages of the model’s painting process.
Enhancing the Trim
Adding Depth: Use Games Workshop’s Wyldwood contrast paint to darken recesses and joints in the trim. The high contrast between the dark recesses and the metallic brass creates visual interest and depth. Apply the paint selectively to areas that would naturally accumulate shadow.
Highlighting: Vallejo Metal Colour Gold is used to highlight the edges of the trim. Due to its fluidity, it provides a smooth application but be mindful of its runniness. Lightly touch the edges with a fine brush to catch the raised areas.
Painting the Skeleton
Base Layer: Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium serves as the base layer for the Titan’s skeletal structure. Its liquidity ensures it flows well into recesses but exercise caution to prevent pooling.
Weathering: Apply Forge World’s Aged Rust weathering powder mixed with water to the skeletal structure for a grimy, rusted effect. Focus on areas that would naturally collect dirt and rust, maintaining a balance to avoid obscuring details.
Sealing the Weathering: Once dry, seal the weathering with a mix of Agrax Earthshade. This reactivates and fixes the weathering powder, giving a durable and realistic rust effect.
Detailing Pistons and Metal Accents
Chrome Pistons: Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome is applied to pistons for a bright, reflective finish. Multiple thin layers may be needed for uniform coverage.
Oily Effects: Windsor and Newton’s Water Mixable Oil Colour Burnt Umber is used to simulate oil and grime on pistons and mechanical parts. Dilute with water for a manageable consistency and apply at joints and moving parts for a realistic oily effect.
Finishing Touches
Reichland Fleshshade Glaze: Optional, but can be used to add warmth to metal parts, particularly useful on brass or gold trims to simulate reflected light or heat staining.
Highlighting and Cleaning Up: After applying weathering and shading, go back to highlight edges and clean up any overspill with your base metallic colours. This step sharpens details and enhances the overall contrast of the model.
Techniques and Tips
Trim Detailing: Use the fine detail brush with Vallejo Metal Colour Gold to highlight the edges of the trim, applying the paint carefully to avoid spillage onto other areas.
Skeleton Base Layer: Apply Vallejo Metal Colour Magnesium with a medium brush, ensuring even coverage and avoiding pooling in recesses.
Weathering Powder Application: Mix Aged Rust with water in the well palette and apply with a large brush, targeting recesses and areas where rust would naturally accumulate.
Chrome Pistons: Use Vallejo Metal Colour Chrome, applying multiple thin layers as needed for a smooth, reflective finish.
Oily Effects: Dilute Winsor & Newton Water Mixable Oil Colour Burnt Umber with water and apply at the tops of pistons and around mechanical parts to simulate oil and grime.
More Titan Tutorials!
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Learn how to paint Titan Armour and Trim for the Forge World Adeptus Titanicus Warlord-Sinister Psi-Titan with my video and guide below. Or, keep scrolling for my freehand guide.
Video: How to Paint Titan Armour and Trim
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials Needed:
Paintbrushes (stippling brush, size 4 brush)Wet palettePaints: Mechanicus Standard Grey, Corvus Black, Grey Seer, Incubi Darkness, Abaddon Black, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Victorian Brass (Scale 75)Water potKitchen roll or tissue paper
Step 1: Priming:Ensure that your miniature model is primed with black primer. This provides a solid base for the subsequent layers of paint.
Step 2: Base Layer:Start by applying Corvus Black to the entire armour panel using a large stippling brush.Use Mechanicus Standard Grey to apply a watered-down layer over the black, focusing on creating a gradient effect from top to bottom.Gradually introduce Grey Seer at the very top of the panel to simulate light hitting the surface. Be mindful of the direction of light for a realistic effect
Step 3: Glazing:Prepare glazes by mixing Incubi Darkness and Abaddon Black with water on your wet palette.Apply Incubi Darkness glaze over the highlighted areas, gradually blending it into the shadows. Use long, vertical strokes for a smooth finish.Follow up with Abaddon Black glaze, concentrating on the shadowed areas to enhance depth and contrast. Be cautious not to apply too much and avoid getting it on the highlighted areas.
Step 4: Metal TrimPaint the metal trim using Victorian Brass, covering all the trim carefully.Optionally, add verdigris effects by applying Nihilakh Oxide or a similar greenish paint to create a weathered appearance.
Step 5: Shading and Detailing:Use Darkoath Flesh (Contrast) or a brown ink to shade certain areas of the metal trim, focusing on adding depth and texture.Highlight the edges of the trim with Victorian Brass to define the shape and add contrast.
Step 6: Final Touches:Blend the shaded areas on the metal trim to create a cohesive look, ensuring a natural transition between colours.Add streaking effects with Nihilakh Oxide or a watered-down paint to simulate weathering and oxidation.
Step 7: Finishing:Allow the paint to dry completely before handling the Psi-Titan.Admire your finished masterpiece and prepare for the next steps in the series, which will cover freehand symbol painting.
For the Freehand, visit this link for the step-by-step tutorial with guide:
Legio Sinister Freehand on the Adeptus Titanicus Warlord Titan
A guide on how to paint the freehand Legio Sinister on the Adeptus Titanicus Warlord Titan.
Watch Now
Step By Step Image Guide
The team at Warhammer Community approached me for some tips on freehand and I created an article with step by step imagery for the tutorial above – to view it, visit:
Tips on Freehand – Step-By-Step Image Guide : Adeptus Titanicus
If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray