A bit less fancy than my Skorpekh Lord, here is how to paint a Necron warrior in NMM (non metallic metal) for my Necron army.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Necron Warrior
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Paints used:
- Vallejo Dark Grey: Used for mixing the initial base coat, providing a solid, neutral foundation.
- Vallejo Heavy Grey: Combined with Dark Grey for the base coat and used for lighter areas and initial highlights.
- Vallejo Deep Blue Pale: Added to mixes for cool-toned highlights and to incorporate subtle color variation.
- Games Workshop Mournfang Brown: Utilized in glazes to impart a worn, rust-like effect, enhancing the NMM finish with a touch of realism.
- Games Workshop Deathworld Forest: Offers an alternative hue for creating variation in the NMM effect, enhancing the model’s worn appearance.
- P3 Morrow White: Applied for the brightest highlights, creating high contrast and drawing attention to focal points on the miniature.
- Games Workshop Abaddon Black: Used to reinforce the deepest shadows and to outline and separate different sections of the NMM armor.
Materials and Preparation
- Prime your Necron Warrior with black primer, including the base pre-coated with sand for texture.
- You’ll need Vallejo Dark Grey, Heavy Grey, and a mix of the two for the initial layers. The exact colours aren’t critical, but aim for a dark, warm grey. Adjustments can be made as you glaze additional colours later.
- Vallejo Dark Blue Pale, White, and a mix for highlighting.
- For added warmth and grunge, prepare Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest.
Base Coating
Initial Layer: Start by mixing Vallejo Dark Grey and Heavy Grey in a 50:50 ratio. This base layer sets the stage for subsequent detailing, providing a dark, warm grey undertone. Apply this mix across the Necron Warrior, ensuring even coverage.
Highlighting and Detailing
Applying Highlights: Use Heavy Grey for the first set of highlights. Focus on the model’s head and upper parts, where light naturally hits. This creates a focal point and draws attention to the model’s face and chest.
Further Highlights: Mix Dark Blue Pale with White in varying ratios to create different shades for additional highlights. These should be applied to emphasize the model’s contours, edges, and details, such as the ribs and the energy blade of the gun. Aim for a high contrast by placing highlights near shadows.
Special Attention to the Head: Spend extra time on the head to make it a key focal point. Use lighter mixes for the most prominent highlights here.
Creating Wear and Tear
Adding Wear with Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest: To convey a sense of age and disrepair, glaze areas of the model with Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest. These colours add a grubby look that suits the Necron lore, suggesting these warriors are ancient and somewhat neglected.
Finishing Touches
Red Details: For glowing elements, start with a base of Mephiston Red, applying it to the gun’s power source and other selected areas. Layer over with Wild Rider Red and a touch of Ice Yellow mixed with Wild Rider Red for the brightest points, creating a glow effect.
Blade Detailing: The blade can be highlighted using the same greys as the rest of the model, followed by glazing with reds to suggest a power source or energy effect.
Final Glazing: To unify the model and enhance the worn look, apply thin glazes of Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest over metallic areas. This step adds depth and a sense of realism to the metallic surfaces.
More Necrons:
Necrons
Here are all of my tutorials on how to paint a Gold Necron Overlord from the Indomitus box set, from his shining gold NMM armour, to his weapons and more. I sculpted a base for him from milliput, so he can stand tall while looking down on his enemies!
Scroll down to explore the how to paint a Gold Necron Overlord tutorials in order, or use the contents below to quickly jump to a specific part or technique:
Video: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part OneMaterials RequiredStep-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part OneVideo: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part TwoPaintsStep-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part TwoVideo: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part ThreePaintsStep-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part ThreeVideo: How to paint a Necron Overlord Blade PaintsStep-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Necron BladeVideo: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Back Carapace NMMPaintsStep-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Back Carapace NMMVideo: How to Create a BaseMaterials NeededStep-by-Step Guide: How to Create a BaseSculpting the BasePainting the BaseFinishing TouchesTips
Video: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part One
Materials Required
Prime: The model is primed in black.
Paints: Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow, Ultramarine Blue, Doombull Brown, and P3 Morrow White.
Brushes: Fine detail brushes, ideally size 0 or 00, suitable for precise application and blending. I use the Artist Opus series of brushes.
Palette: A wet palette to help keep your paints at the correct consistency.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part One
Step 1: Base Layer
Start with Doombull Brown, applying it to areas you want to be gold. Doombull Brown will serve as our base because of its deep, rich red-brown hue that provides a good foundation for gold. Expect it to darken as it dries, so multiple thin layers may be necessary for an even base without obscuring details.
Step 2: First Highlights
Mix Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre in a 50/50 ratio and apply this mixture to areas where light naturally hits the model. This blend starts the transition towards the brighter gold tones. Be mindful of the paint’s translucency; apply in thin layers to build up the colour gradually.
Step 3: Enhancing the Gold
Apply pure Heavy Ochre to enhance the gold effect, focusing on raised areas and edges that would catch the light. This pigment is stronger and more opaque, allowing for more pronounced highlights.
Step 4: Bright Highlights
Create a 50/50 mix of Heavy Goldbrown and Ice Yellow for the next layer of highlights. This combination starts to introduce the characteristic shine of gold, applied more selectively to the highest points and sharpest edges where light would be most intense.
Step 5: Final Highlights
Use Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights, focusing on very specific areas that would reflect the most light. This step is crucial for selling the NMM effect, making the gold look luminous and reflective.
Step 6: Adding Depth and Contrast
For the deepest shadows and to add contrast, return to Doombull Brown in areas opposite the light source or where shadows would be most pronounced. This contrast is key to the NMM technique, giving the illusion of metal.
Step 7: Fine Details
Use Ultramarine Blue for elements like the Overlord’s eyes, adding a pop of colour and visual interest. This also prepares for potential object source lighting (OSL) effects in later stages.
Step 8: Refining and Adjusting
Continue to refine and adjust the distribution of light and shadow across the model, ensuring a coherent light source and believable metallic effect. You may need to go back and forth between shades to achieve smooth transitions.
Step 9: Final Touches
For the sharpest highlights and to represent the most reflective parts of the metal, apply tiny dots or very fine lines of Morrow White. Use this sparingly, as too much can detract from the gold effect.
Tips:
Patience and Layers: NMM gold requires patience and numerous thin layers to build up the desired effect. Don’t rush the process.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure all highlights and shadows are consistent with a single, imagined light source.
Brush Care: Use different brushes for applying paint and mixing on your palette to maintain their condition. A worn brush can provide softer marks for blending, while a newer, sharper brush is ideal for fine details and edge highlighting.
Video: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part Two
In this session, we continue adding gold details, focusing on the elements cascading from the Overlord’s necklace and introducing more techniques for achieving a realistic NMM gold effect.
Paints
Vallejo: Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow, Dark Grey, Neutral Grey, Silver Grey.
Games Workshop: Doombull Brown.
P3: Morrow White (used sparingly for final highlights).
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part Two
Segmented Chains Highlighting:
Begin with the chains descending from the necklace. Each segment must be painted according to its angle relative to the light source. This approach ensures a varied and realistic representation of light across the figure, enhancing the NMM effect.
Use the colour palette established in Part 1: Doombull Brown, a mix of Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre, Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown mixed with Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow.
Adjusting Highlights According to Angle:
For segments angling upwards or more horizontally, apply more light to reflect their increased exposure. Conversely, more vertical segments should have subdued highlights to mimic realistic shadowing.
Application Technique:
Apply the base colours smoothly, ensuring that transitions between shades are gradual and natural. The aim is to mimic the light’s natural fall off on metallic surfaces without losing the detailed sculptural elements of the miniature.
Detailing and Texture:
As you move onto different sections, adjust the intensity and placement of highlights to suit each area’s orientation. Use a combination of stippling and smooth brushwork to add texture and depth, particularly on battle-damaged areas.
Necklace and Carapace:
For the necklace and parts of the carapace, transition to cooler tones using Dark Grey, Neutral Grey, and Silver Grey. These areas should complement the gold while maintaining the overall NMM technique.
Mix these greys to achieve the desired mid-tones and highlights, creating a metallic sheen that contrasts with the warmer gold tones.
Edge Highlighting and Final Touches:
Emphasise edges and details with finer highlights, gradually building up to the lightest tones. Reserve Morrow White for the most pronounced highlights to draw attention and impart a gleaming metallic finish.
Focus on ensuring that each part of the miniature works together as a cohesive whole. The goal is to have the NMM effect believable across the entire model, with careful attention to the light source consistency.
Video: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part Three
In this third installment of our painting guide, we focus on the Tachyon Arrow of the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus box set, continuing the theme of non-metallic metal (NMM) gold and adding depth to the blue globe.
Paints
Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow, Ultramarine Blue; Games Workshop Doombull Brown; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part Three
Preparing the Model:
If you’re following from previous videos, the model will have a base coat of Doombull Brown for the gold sections and Vallejo Ultramarine Blue for the blue globe.
Applying the Base Highlights:
Using the same colours as previous sections, begin enhancing the Tachyon Arrow. The palette includes Doombull Brown, a 50/50 mix of Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre, pure Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, a mix of Heavy Goldbrown and Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow for the highest highlights.
Focusing on Key Highlights:
Pay special attention to a vertical crease to the right of the blue globe. Highlight this crease directly to simulate reflected light, using a brighter tone such as the Heavy Goldbrown and Ice Yellow mix or Ice Yellow for the most intense reflection.
Building Up Layers:
Gradually work up the highlights, starting with deeper shades like the 50/50 Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre mix, moving through Heavy Ochre, and then to the lighter mixes involving Ice Yellow. This creates a realistic metallic sheen.
Remember to revisit darker shades if necessary to refine transitions and add depth to the NMM effect.
Handling Flat Panels:
The weapon’s flat panels require careful attention. Ensure that the transition from the base colour up to the lighter highlights is smooth, avoiding the temptation to skip straight to the lightest colours without building up the mid-tones.
Detailing the Blue Globe:
For the blue globe, start with a base of Ultramarine Blue. Gradually lighten the top of the globe where the light would naturally hit, blending towards Ice Yellow for the brightest points.
Incorporate a soft highlight at the globe’s base to simulate a bounce light effect, ensuring the transition is smooth to maintain the appearance of a soft, glowing object.
Final Touches:
Revisit the gold sections around the globe, ensuring that the transitions between colours are smooth and that the reflective qualities of the metal are accurately represented.
For the metallic sections not covered in gold, such as the weapon’s armature, use a gradient from Dark Grey to Silver Grey to create a steel effect, mirroring the techniques used on the gold but with cooler tones.
Video: How to paint a Necron Overlord Blade
In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to paint the blade of the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus boxed set, aiming for a standout effect with an alien technology vibe. We’ll employ a combination of vibrant and contrasting colours to achieve this unique look.
Paints
Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise, Sunset Red, Ice Yellow, Black; Games Workshop Abaddon Black, Ahriman Blue, Incubi Darkness; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Necron Blade
Step 1: Base Details
Start with Ice Yellow, thinning it with approximately two parts water to one part paint for smooth flow. This thinned mixture should be applied to the recessed circular details on the blade, allowing capillary action to draw the paint into these areas. Let dry, then apply a second coat if needed for opacity.
Step 2: Adding Colour Contrast
Apply Sunset Red (a vibrant magenta/hot pink shade) to further highlight the recessed areas, contrasting sharply with the future turquoise and blue elements. This step enhances the alien technology aspect with its striking colour difference.
Step 3: Initial Highlights
Mix a little white with Sunset Red to desaturate the pink slightly for the first stage of highlights. Focus these lighter pink highlights around the recesses to emphasize the glow effect. Avoid adding too much white to maintain the vibrancy of the pink.
Step 4: Cleaning Up
Once the recessed areas are highlighted, use Vallejo Black (or Games Workshop Abaddon Black) to tidy up the edges around these highlights. This step will sharpen the contrast and make the details pop against the blade’s darker base.
Step 5: Turquoise Application
Begin applying Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise to the flat of the blade. This isn’t aimed at realistic reflection but rather at adding an otherworldly glow. Use this alongside a mix of Turquoise with a small amount of Black for shading and pure Turquoise for mid-tones.
Step 6: Adding Scratches and Texture
For creating scratches and texture on the blade’s surface, use a very fine brush and lightly apply lines using a mix of Turquoise and White, gradually increasing the amount of white for the brightest highlights. Add these scratches sparingly to avoid overwhelming the design.
Step 7: Glazing for Depth
To soften and blend the transitions on the blade, prepare glazes with Ahriman Blue (or an equivalent turquoise shade), Incubi Darkness for dark areas, and Abaddon Black for the deepest shadows. Apply these glazes carefully to merge the highlights and shades smoothly, enhancing the blade’s dimensional appearance.
Step 8: Final Highlights and Adjustments
Using Morrow White, add final spot highlights to the edges and tips of the blade where light would naturally catch the most. This step brings together all the elements, giving the blade a polished, gleaming look that stands out from the rest of the model.
Tips for Success:
Layering: Build up colours gradually, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. This approach gives you more control over the final outcome.
Contrast: Make use of contrasting colours to create visual interest and highlight the alien nature of the technology.
Texture: Adding small scratches and imperfections can lend realism and character to the blade, suggesting wear and use.
Video: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Back Carapace NMM
This guide provides detailed steps for painting the back carapace of a Necron Overlord miniature from the Indomitus box set.
Paints
Games Workshop Doombull Brown, Abaddon Black; Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Back Carapace NMM
Preparation:
Ensure the carapace is primed and ready for painting. If you have painted other parts of the model, make sure they are protected or carefully work around them.
Step 1: Establishing Base Layers
Start with Doombull Brown as your base layer, covering the entire carapace area. This rich, deep brown will serve as the foundation for building up the gold effect.
Step 2: Building Up Layers
Create a gradient of colours on your palette, starting with Doombull Brown and gradually mixing in Heavy Ochre to lighten the shade. Apply these mixed shades to areas where light naturally hits the carapace, considering your light source to be coming from the top right.
Progress to Heavy Goldbrown, focusing on smaller areas within those previously highlighted. This creates depth and the illusion of a light source affecting the metal’s appearance.
Mix Heavy Goldbrown with Ice Yellow for the next set of highlights, further refining the areas hit by light. This combination starts to give the gold a vibrant, reflective quality.
Step 3: Finishing Highlights
Pure Ice Yellow is used for the highest points of light reflection. Apply this sparingly to the most prominent edges and areas where the light would be strongest.
For the final highlights and to achieve the brightest points of light reflection, use Morrow White. This should be used very sparingly and only on the most elevated areas to simulate the reflection of light on metal.
Step 4: Adjusting Shadows
Use Abaddon Black to glaze into the deepest recesses and shadows of the carapace. This step is crucial for enhancing the contrast, making the NMM effect more pronounced. It’s important to maintain a balance, ensuring that the dark areas do not overpower the lighter, reflective sections.
Step 5: Refining and Cleaning Up
Go back with your initial colours, like Doombull Brown mixed with Heavy Ochre, to smooth out any transitions between shades or correct any oversights. This step also allows you to adjust the contrast and ensure that the lighting looks natural and consistent across the carapace.
Use a fine detail brush to clean up edges or redefine lines that may have become muddled during the painting process.
Step 6: Final Inspection and Adjustments
Once the main painting is complete, inspect the model from various angles to ensure the lighting looks consistent and the NMM effect is convincing. Make any necessary adjustments to the highlights or shadows to perfect the appearance.
Tips for Success:
Lighting Consistency: Keep the light source direction consistent across the model for a cohesive look. Imagine how the light falls on the model and paint accordingly.
Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a smooth transition between shades. This technique is key to achieving a realistic metal appearance.
Controlled Brushwork: Use controlled, precise brush strokes, especially for the finer highlights and shadows, to ensure the best outcome for your NMM effect.
Video: How to Create a Base
This guide will walk you through sculpting and painting the base for the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus boxed set, utilising Milliput for the sculpting part and a selection of Games Workshop paints for painting.
Materials Needed
Milliput (Super Fine White preferred, but any type will do)
Sculpting tools and a scalpel
Water or a lubricant like Vaseline for smoothing Milliput
PVA glue and fine grain sand for texture
Paints: Vallejo Model Color Black, Games Workshop Deathworld Forest, Ogryn Camo, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Kantor Blue
Weathering pigment (e.g., Forge World Dark Sand)
Brushes, including a small Artist Opus dry brush
Matte varnish for sealing
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Create a Base
Sculpting the Base
Mixing Milliput: Take equal parts of Milliput’s two components and knead until uniformly beige. It might initially be flaky; continue until smooth.
Forming the Terrain: Roll the mixed Milliput into a ball and press onto the base. Begin sculpting the rough shape of the terrain using sculpting tools, dipped in water or lubricant to prevent sticking.
Adding Details: Once you have a basic shape, use tools and a scalpel to carve more detailed rock formations. Ensure the terrain is level where the model will stand.
Creating Smaller Rocks: Take excess Milliput, form small balls, and press onto the base to simulate smaller rocks, blending them into the larger mass.
Smoothing and Refining: Continue to refine the shapes, adding crevices and smoothing surfaces. Allow the Milliput to partially dry for easier handling.
Painting the Base
Base Coat: Once the Milliput is dry, apply a thin base coat of Vallejo Model Color Black. Ensure it’s watered down to cover quickly without obscuring details.
Adding Sand: Apply PVA glue to the base and sprinkle fine grain sand over it for additional texture. Allow to dry.
Applying Weathering Pigment: Use a dark sand weathering pigment, pushing it into crevices and blowing away the excess.
Washing: Create a wash with Deathworld Forest (5 parts water to 1 part paint) and cover the entire base. This will spread the pigment and add depth.
Dry Brushing: Once dry, dry brush the base with Deathworld Forest, followed by Ogryn Camo, focusing on top-down strokes to highlight edges and textures.
Detailing: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone to pick out individual rocks and edges for added contrast and detail.
Adding Shadows: Water down Kantor Blue and apply it to the undersides of rocks and in shadowed areas to simulate ambient occlusion and enhance depth.
Finishing Touches
Sealing: Once fully painted and dry, apply a matte varnish to seal the weathering pigment and paint, protecting your work.
Base Rim: Tidy up the base’s rim with Vallejo Model Color Black for a neat finish.
Tips
Work in stages, allowing materials to dry fully between steps.
Be creative with your rock shapes but ensure the model will stand level on the finished base.
Use a variety of brush sizes for dry brushing to reach different areas without disturbing the painted model.
Test fit your model frequently on the base during the sculpting process to ensure a good fit
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A set of videos on how to paint a Skorpekh Lord from the Indomitus boxed set from Games Workshop. With NMM (Non-metallic metal) and red OSL. Read on to explore the tutorials in order, or quick jump using the contents below!
Video – How to Paint Skorpekh Lord Part OnePaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step GuideVideo – How to Paint Skorpekh Lord Part TwoPaints and Materials NeededStep-by-Step Guide
Video – How to Paint Skorpekh Lord Part One
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints:
Vallejo Paints:
Black
Dark Grey
Heavy Grey
Deep Blue Pale
P3 Paints:
Morrow White (Alternatively, you can choose your preferred white paint)
Brushes:
Fine Detail Brush: For intricate work and precise highlights, a Size 00 brush is recommended. This will allow you to apply the smaller, more detailed marks needed for the final highlights and finer details.
Standard Brush: A Size 0 or 1 brush for the broader strokes and layering. This will be useful for the initial application of the 50/50 mix of Dark Grey and Heavy Grey, and for applying the Heavy Grey.
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Preparation
Assemble and prime your Skorpekh Lord. Note that the model is push-fit, so keeping parts separate for detailed painting can be tricky. However, assembling it fully then painting is possible and can yield great results.
Step 2: Establishing Base Tones
Start by applying a mix of Vallejo Dark Grey and Heavy Grey (mixed in a 50/50 ratio). This mix is your foundation for mapping out light points on the model. Apply it roughly to create texture, aiming for a grungy look.
Step 3: Adding Depth with Heavy Grey
Use Vallejo Heavy Grey to add depth. This grey has a slight green tint, enhancing the contrast with later red elements. Apply it over the initial mix, enhancing the textured, worn effect.
Step 4: Working with Blue Tones
Introduce Vallejo Deep Blue Pale to your palette. Apply this to areas you want to emphasise as reflecting the sky, adding a colder, metallic feel.
Create a 50/50 mix of Deep Blue Pale and White (P3 Morrow White or your choice of white) for lighter highlights. Apply these to the most raised and prominent areas, following the form of the model.
Step 5: Finishing with White Highlights
Use pure white paint for the final highlights. Focus on the smallest and brightest light points. This step requires precision – use a fine brush and aim for small, deliberate marks.
Step 6: Considerations During Painting
Align your brushstrokes with the armour’s shape. Vary your marks to reflect different levels of wear and tear.
Use a smaller brush (I used Artist Opus size 0 or 00) for finer details, especially as you work towards smaller, more precise highlights.
Be mindful of the light source. Understand how it interacts with the model to guide your placement of primary and secondary highlights.
Step 7: Refinement and Detailing
As you progress, refine the details. Ensure that areas like the head and weapons stand out.
Adjust your brushwork to enhance the model’s intricate features, adding depth and dimension.
Video – How to Paint Skorpekh Lord Part Two
Paints and Materials Needed
Paints:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Mephiston Red, Wildrider Red
Vallejo: English Uniform, Japanese Uniform, Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Dark Grey
Step-by-Step Guide
Golden Necklace:
Start with Vallejo English Uniform. Focus on specific areas, leaving sides dark to create a light-shining effect. This technique helps avoid a flat, overly contrasted appearance and maintains a gold-like hue.
Progress to Vallejo Japanese Uniform, highlighting details while considering the light reflecting from surrounding metal.
Use Vallejo Ice Yellow for final highlights. Place dots and dashes on hard edges and corners, simulating imperfections and dents in the metal.
Eyes:
Begin with Mephiston Red from Games Workshop.
Layer Wildrider Red, adding a little Ice Yellow for higher highlights. Be cautious not to make the eyes too pinkish. Adjust the red glow to achieve a sinister, darker tone.
Blade:
Use Vallejo Neutral Grey and Dark Grey as base colors.
Mix Neutral Grey with Ice Yellow, creating two mixes: one with a 2:1 ratio and another with more Ice Yellow.
Apply the mixes to the blade, starting with larger brushstrokes and gradually decreasing the size for finer details. Follow the blade’s curve with your brushstrokes.
Add Vallejo Ice Yellow with Neutral Grey for the final highlights. Apply with a delicate touch to maintain the metal’s weathered appearance.
For added realism, place tiny dots and lines using Vallejo Ice Yellow and Neutral Grey mix, simulating scratches and imperfections.
Rod on Weapon Handle:
Glaze the rod with Mournfang Brown, diluted with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Apply over the metallic colors previously painted, creating a brass-like effect.
Final Details and Touch-ups:
Go back and refine any areas as needed. Be especially careful with the sharp edge of the blade to maintain a clean, bright highlight.
Adjust any colors or highlights to ensure consistency and realism across the model.
Finishing Touches:
Once satisfied with the painting, you can apply a matte varnish to reduce any unwanted shine from the paint, enhancing the model’s overall appearance.
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A little bit different from me, a gaming true metal Necron Skorpekh Destroyer. I think he’ll be the only one I paint with true metals though!
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Necron Skorpekh Destroyer in True Metals
Paints Used on the Necron Skorpekh Destroyer:
Metallics for TMM:
Vallejo Model Air Gunmetal: Base coat for a smooth, metallic finish.
Vallejo Model Air Chrome: For bright, reflective highlights.
Games Workshop Nuln Oil: A shade to add depth and shadows.
Games Workshop Seraphim Sepia: For aging effects and adding grime.
Vallejo Scale 75 Victorian Brass: An option for gold metallic parts.
For the Green Blade (NMM effect):
Vallejo Game Color Heavy Blackgreen: Base color for the blade.
Vallejo Model Color White Grey: To mix for gradients and highlights.
For Red Lightning:
Games Workshop Mephiston Red: The base layer for lightning effects.
Games Workshop Wildrider Red: Intermediate highlights.
Games Workshop Lugganath Orange: Final, bright highlights.
Additional Contrast Paints for Effects:
Games Workshop Space Wolves Grey, Snakebite Leather, Gore Grunter Fur: For varied surface effects and detailing.
Brushes and Tools:
Fine Detail Brushes: For precision in painting highlights and intricate details.
A Well Palette: Recommended for metallic paints to prevent particle contamination.
A Wet Palette: Ideal for non-metallic paints to keep them moist and workable.
Two Water Jars: One for cleaning brushes used with metallic paints and one for non-metallic paints, to avoid transferring metallic particles.
Additional Materials:
Matte Varnish: To seal the paint job, providing durability and a uniform finish.
Cleaning Solution for Brushes: To maintain the quality and extend the lifespan of your brushes.
Why the Separation and Care Tips:
Separate Palettes and Water Jars: Using separate palettes and water jars for metallic and non-metallic paints is crucial. Metallic paints contain fine particles that can contaminate your non-metallic paints, leading to an unwanted sparkle in areas you may want matte. This separation also extends to water jars; mixing water used for cleaning metallic paint off brushes with non-metallics can inadvertently introduce shimmer to your entire palette.
Brush Care: Metallic paints can be harsher on brushes due to their particle content. It’s essential to clean your brushes thoroughly after each painting session, especially when using metallics. Utilizing a gentle brush soap can help remove paint residues without damaging the bristles. Avoid leaving brushes submerged in water, as this can cause bristle damage and loosen the glue holding the brush head, leading to shedding.
Base Coating and Initial Steps
Preparation: Begin by assembling your Necron Skorpekh Destroyer, ensuring all parts are clean and free from mould lines. Prime the model with a black primer to provide a dark base for metallic paints.
Base Coat with Gunmetal: Apply Vallejo Model Air Gunmetal as the base coat using a brush or airbrush. This metallic paint provides a smooth, dark metallic base for your model. Avoid thick applications to maintain detail.
Applying the Red Glow: Before proceeding with further metallics, paint the recessed areas intended for the red glow with Mephiston Red. Build this up in layers until you achieve a solid base. Highlight these areas progressively with Wildrider Red and Lugganath Orange to create a glowing effect.
Applying Metallic Highlights and Shadows
Highlighting with Chrome: Use Vallejo Model Air Chrome to highlight the edges and raised areas of the Necron Skorpekh Destroyer. This bright metallic paint simulates the reflective nature of metal. Apply it sparingly to areas that would naturally catch the light.
Shading with Washes: Use Nuln Oil to add depth to recesses and undercuts. For areas where you want to create a worn or tarnished look, apply Seraphim Sepia. These washes help define the model’s details and give it character.
Creating Texture and Additional Effects: To add variety and realism to the metallic surfaces, consider using a combination of washes and contrast paints like Snakebite Leather and Gore Grunter Fur. Apply these selectively to add oil stains, rust, or other weathering effects.
Painting the Green Blade (NMM Effect)
Base Coat the Blade: Start with Heavy Blackgreen for the base of the blade. This sets the stage for the NMM green effect.
Layering for the NMM Effect: Mix Heavy Blackgreen with White Grey in varying ratios to create a gradient of shades. Begin with the darkest mixture and apply it sparingly towards the edges and points where light would be less direct. Progressively mix in more White Grey for the mid-tones and highlights, focusing on areas that would catch the light.
Finishing Touches on the Blade: Use almost pure White Grey for the brightest highlights on the blade. Apply these highlights strategically to simulate the reflective properties of metal.
Detailing and Final Touches
Applying Red Lightning: Use Mephiston Red to sketch out the lightning patterns emanating from the blade’s core or other focal points. Layer over this with Wildrider Red and finally, Lugganath Orange at the brightest points to create an energised effect.
Refining Metallic Surfaces: Revisit the metallic areas with Chrome and possibly Mithril Silver to define edges and bright spots further. Use a fine detail brush for precision.
Matte Varnish (Optional): If desired, apply a matte varnish to unify the sheen on the model and protect your work. Be mindful that this can dull metallic finishes, so you may choose to selectively apply it to non-metallic areas only.
Glazing for Shine: As a final step, you can mix Chrome with a medium or water to create a thin glaze. Apply this glaze to metallic areas you wish to have a higher sheen, enhancing the TMM effect.
More Necrons:
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A bit less fancy than my Skorpekh Lord, here is how to paint a Necron warrior in NMM (non metallic metal) for my Necron army.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Necron Warrior
Paints used:
Vallejo Dark Grey: Used for mixing the initial base coat, providing a solid, neutral foundation.
Vallejo Heavy Grey: Combined with Dark Grey for the base coat and used for lighter areas and initial highlights.
Vallejo Deep Blue Pale: Added to mixes for cool-toned highlights and to incorporate subtle color variation.
Games Workshop Mournfang Brown: Utilized in glazes to impart a worn, rust-like effect, enhancing the NMM finish with a touch of realism.
Games Workshop Deathworld Forest: Offers an alternative hue for creating variation in the NMM effect, enhancing the model’s worn appearance.
P3 Morrow White: Applied for the brightest highlights, creating high contrast and drawing attention to focal points on the miniature.
Games Workshop Abaddon Black: Used to reinforce the deepest shadows and to outline and separate different sections of the NMM armor.
Materials and Preparation
Prime your Necron Warrior with black primer, including the base pre-coated with sand for texture.
You’ll need Vallejo Dark Grey, Heavy Grey, and a mix of the two for the initial layers. The exact colours aren’t critical, but aim for a dark, warm grey. Adjustments can be made as you glaze additional colours later.
Vallejo Dark Blue Pale, White, and a mix for highlighting.
For added warmth and grunge, prepare Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest.
Base Coating
Initial Layer: Start by mixing Vallejo Dark Grey and Heavy Grey in a 50:50 ratio. This base layer sets the stage for subsequent detailing, providing a dark, warm grey undertone. Apply this mix across the Necron Warrior, ensuring even coverage.
Highlighting and Detailing
Applying Highlights: Use Heavy Grey for the first set of highlights. Focus on the model’s head and upper parts, where light naturally hits. This creates a focal point and draws attention to the model’s face and chest.
Further Highlights: Mix Dark Blue Pale with White in varying ratios to create different shades for additional highlights. These should be applied to emphasize the model’s contours, edges, and details, such as the ribs and the energy blade of the gun. Aim for a high contrast by placing highlights near shadows.
Special Attention to the Head: Spend extra time on the head to make it a key focal point. Use lighter mixes for the most prominent highlights here.
Creating Wear and Tear
Adding Wear with Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest: To convey a sense of age and disrepair, glaze areas of the model with Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest. These colours add a grubby look that suits the Necron lore, suggesting these warriors are ancient and somewhat neglected.
Finishing Touches
Red Details: For glowing elements, start with a base of Mephiston Red, applying it to the gun’s power source and other selected areas. Layer over with Wild Rider Red and a touch of Ice Yellow mixed with Wild Rider Red for the brightest points, creating a glow effect.
Blade Detailing: The blade can be highlighted using the same greys as the rest of the model, followed by glazing with reds to suggest a power source or energy effect.
Final Glazing: To unify the model and enhance the worn look, apply thin glazes of Mournfang Brown and Deathworld Forest over metallic areas. This step adds depth and a sense of realism to the metallic surfaces.
More Necrons:
If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
A series of how to paint the Necron Overlord in NMM Gold from the Indomitus boxset by Games Workshop.
Video: How to Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold Part One
Materials Required
Prime: The model is primed in black.
Paints: Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow, Ultramarine Blue, Doombull Brown, and P3 Morrow White.
Brushes: Fine detail brushes, ideally size 0 or 00, suitable for precise application and blending. I use the Artist Opus series of brushes.
Palette: A wet palette to help keep your paints at the correct consistency.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold Part One
Step 1: Base Layer
Start with Doombull Brown, applying it to areas you want to be gold. Doombull Brown will serve as our base because of its deep, rich red-brown hue that provides a good foundation for gold. Expect it to darken as it dries, so multiple thin layers may be necessary for an even base without obscuring details.
Step 2: First Highlights
Mix Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre in a 50/50 ratio and apply this mixture to areas where light naturally hits the model. This blend starts the transition towards the brighter gold tones. Be mindful of the paint’s translucency; apply in thin layers to build up the colour gradually.
Step 3: Enhancing the Gold
Apply pure Heavy Ochre to enhance the gold effect, focusing on raised areas and edges that would catch the light. This pigment is stronger and more opaque, allowing for more pronounced highlights.
Step 4: Bright Highlights
Create a 50/50 mix of Heavy Goldbrown and Ice Yellow for the next layer of highlights. This combination starts to introduce the characteristic shine of gold, applied more selectively to the highest points and sharpest edges where light would be most intense.
Step 5: Final Highlights
Use Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights, focusing on very specific areas that would reflect the most light. This step is crucial for selling the NMM effect, making the gold look luminous and reflective.
Step 6: Adding Depth and Contrast
For the deepest shadows and to add contrast, return to Doombull Brown in areas opposite the light source or where shadows would be most pronounced. This contrast is key to the NMM technique, giving the illusion of metal.
Step 7: Fine Details
Use Ultramarine Blue for elements like the Overlord’s eyes, adding a pop of colour and visual interest. This also prepares for potential object source lighting (OSL) effects in later stages.
Step 8: Refining and Adjusting
Continue to refine and adjust the distribution of light and shadow across the model, ensuring a coherent light source and believable metallic effect. You may need to go back and forth between shades to achieve smooth transitions.
Step 9: Final Touches
For the sharpest highlights and to represent the most reflective parts of the metal, apply tiny dots or very fine lines of Morrow White. Use this sparingly, as too much can detract from the gold effect.
Tips:
Patience and Layers: NMM gold requires patience and numerous thin layers to build up the desired effect. Don’t rush the process.
Light Source Consistency: Ensure all highlights and shadows are consistent with a single, imagined light source.
Brush Care: Use different brushes for applying paint and mixing on your palette to maintain their condition. A worn brush can provide softer marks for blending, while a newer, sharper brush is ideal for fine details and edge highlighting.
Video: How to Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold Part Two
In this session, we continue adding gold details, focusing on the elements cascading from the Overlord’s necklace and introducing more techniques for achieving a realistic NMM gold effect.
Paints
Vallejo: Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow, Dark Grey, Neutral Grey, Silver Grey.
Games Workshop: Doombull Brown.
P3: Morrow White (used sparingly for final highlights).
Step-by-Step Guide: Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold Part Two
Segmented Chains Highlighting:
Begin with the chains descending from the necklace. Each segment must be painted according to its angle relative to the light source. This approach ensures a varied and realistic representation of light across the figure, enhancing the NMM effect.
Use the colour palette established in Part 1: Doombull Brown, a mix of Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre, Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown mixed with Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow.
Adjusting Highlights According to Angle:
For segments angling upwards or more horizontally, apply more light to reflect their increased exposure. Conversely, more vertical segments should have subdued highlights to mimic realistic shadowing.
Application Technique:
Apply the base colours smoothly, ensuring that transitions between shades are gradual and natural. The aim is to mimic the light’s natural fall off on metallic surfaces without losing the detailed sculptural elements of the miniature.
Detailing and Texture:
As you move onto different sections, adjust the intensity and placement of highlights to suit each area’s orientation. Use a combination of stippling and smooth brushwork to add texture and depth, particularly on battle-damaged areas.
Necklace and Carapace:
For the necklace and parts of the carapace, transition to cooler tones using Dark Grey, Neutral Grey, and Silver Grey. These areas should complement the gold while maintaining the overall NMM technique.
Mix these greys to achieve the desired mid-tones and highlights, creating a metallic sheen that contrasts with the warmer gold tones.
Edge Highlighting and Final Touches:
Emphasise edges and details with finer highlights, gradually building up to the lightest tones. Reserve Morrow White for the most pronounced highlights to draw attention and impart a gleaming metallic finish.
Focus on ensuring that each part of the miniature works together as a cohesive whole. The goal is to have the NMM effect believable across the entire model, with careful attention to the light source consistency.
Video: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Part Three
In this third installment of our painting guide, we focus on the Tachyon Arrow of the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus box set, continuing the theme of non-metallic metal (NMM) gold and adding depth to the blue globe.
Paints
Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow, Ultramarine Blue; Games Workshop Doombull Brown; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold Part Three
Preparing the Model:
If you’re following from previous videos, the model will have a base coat of Doombull Brown for the gold sections and Vallejo Ultramarine Blue for the blue globe.
Applying the Base Highlights:
Using the same colours as previous sections, begin enhancing the Tachyon Arrow. The palette includes Doombull Brown, a 50/50 mix of Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre, pure Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, a mix of Heavy Goldbrown and Ice Yellow, and pure Ice Yellow for the highest highlights.
Focusing on Key Highlights:
Pay special attention to a vertical crease to the right of the blue globe. Highlight this crease directly to simulate reflected light, using a brighter tone such as the Heavy Goldbrown and Ice Yellow mix or Ice Yellow for the most intense reflection.
Building Up Layers:
Gradually work up the highlights, starting with deeper shades like the 50/50 Doombull Brown and Heavy Ochre mix, moving through Heavy Ochre, and then to the lighter mixes involving Ice Yellow. This creates a realistic metallic sheen.
Remember to revisit darker shades if necessary to refine transitions and add depth to the NMM effect.
Handling Flat Panels:
The weapon’s flat panels require careful attention. Ensure that the transition from the base colour up to the lighter highlights is smooth, avoiding the temptation to skip straight to the lightest colours without building up the mid-tones.
Detailing the Blue Globe:
For the blue globe, start with a base of Ultramarine Blue. Gradually lighten the top of the globe where the light would naturally hit, blending towards Ice Yellow for the brightest points.
Incorporate a soft highlight at the globe’s base to simulate a bounce light effect, ensuring the transition is smooth to maintain the appearance of a soft, glowing object.
Final Touches:
Revisit the gold sections around the globe, ensuring that the transitions between colours are smooth and that the reflective qualities of the metal are accurately represented.
For the metallic sections not covered in gold, such as the weapon’s armature, use a gradient from Dark Grey to Silver Grey to create a steel effect, mirroring the techniques used on the gold but with cooler tones.
Video: How to paint a Necron Overlord Blade
In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to paint the blade of the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus boxed set, aiming for a standout effect with an alien technology vibe. We’ll employ a combination of vibrant and contrasting colours to achieve this unique look.
Paints
Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise, Sunset Red, Ice Yellow, Black; Games Workshop Abaddon Black, Ahriman Blue, Incubi Darkness; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Necron Blade
Step 1: Base Details
Start with Ice Yellow, thinning it with approximately two parts water to one part paint for smooth flow. This thinned mixture should be applied to the recessed circular details on the blade, allowing capillary action to draw the paint into these areas. Let dry, then apply a second coat if needed for opacity.
Step 2: Adding Colour Contrast
Apply Sunset Red (a vibrant magenta/hot pink shade) to further highlight the recessed areas, contrasting sharply with the future turquoise and blue elements. This step enhances the alien technology aspect with its striking colour difference.
Step 3: Initial Highlights
Mix a little white with Sunset Red to desaturate the pink slightly for the first stage of highlights. Focus these lighter pink highlights around the recesses to emphasize the glow effect. Avoid adding too much white to maintain the vibrancy of the pink.
Step 4: Cleaning Up
Once the recessed areas are highlighted, use Vallejo Black (or Games Workshop Abaddon Black) to tidy up the edges around these highlights. This step will sharpen the contrast and make the details pop against the blade’s darker base.
Step 5: Turquoise Application
Begin applying Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise to the flat of the blade. This isn’t aimed at realistic reflection but rather at adding an otherworldly glow. Use this alongside a mix of Turquoise with a small amount of Black for shading and pure Turquoise for mid-tones.
Step 6: Adding Scratches and Texture
For creating scratches and texture on the blade’s surface, use a very fine brush and lightly apply lines using a mix of Turquoise and White, gradually increasing the amount of white for the brightest highlights. Add these scratches sparingly to avoid overwhelming the design.
Step 7: Glazing for Depth
To soften and blend the transitions on the blade, prepare glazes with Ahriman Blue (or an equivalent turquoise shade), Incubi Darkness for dark areas, and Abaddon Black for the deepest shadows. Apply these glazes carefully to merge the highlights and shades smoothly, enhancing the blade’s dimensional appearance.
Step 8: Final Highlights and Adjustments
Using Morrow White, add final spot highlights to the edges and tips of the blade where light would naturally catch the most. This step brings together all the elements, giving the blade a polished, gleaming look that stands out from the rest of the model.
Tips for Success:
Layering: Build up colours gradually, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. This approach gives you more control over the final outcome.
Contrast: Make use of contrasting colours to create visual interest and highlight the alien nature of the technology.
Texture: Adding small scratches and imperfections can lend realism and character to the blade, suggesting wear and use.
Video: Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold (Back Carapace)
This guide provides detailed steps for painting the back carapace of a Necron Overlord miniature from the Indomitus box set.
Paints
Games Workshop Doombull Brown, Abaddon Black; Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Necron Overlord NMM Gold (Back Carapace)
Preparation:
Ensure the carapace is primed and ready for painting. If you have painted other parts of the model, make sure they are protected or carefully work around them.
Step 1: Establishing Base Layers
Start with Doombull Brown as your base layer, covering the entire carapace area. This rich, deep brown will serve as the foundation for building up the gold effect.
Step 2: Building Up Layers
Create a gradient of colours on your palette, starting with Doombull Brown and gradually mixing in Heavy Ochre to lighten the shade. Apply these mixed shades to areas where light naturally hits the carapace, considering your light source to be coming from the top right.
Progress to Heavy Goldbrown, focusing on smaller areas within those previously highlighted. This creates depth and the illusion of a light source affecting the metal’s appearance.
Mix Heavy Goldbrown with Ice Yellow for the next set of highlights, further refining the areas hit by light. This combination starts to give the gold a vibrant, reflective quality.
Step 3: Finishing Highlights
Pure Ice Yellow is used for the highest points of light reflection. Apply this sparingly to the most prominent edges and areas where the light would be strongest.
For the final highlights and to achieve the brightest points of light reflection, use Morrow White. This should be used very sparingly and only on the most elevated areas to simulate the reflection of light on metal.
Step 4: Adjusting Shadows
Use Abaddon Black to glaze into the deepest recesses and shadows of the carapace. This step is crucial for enhancing the contrast, making the NMM effect more pronounced. It’s important to maintain a balance, ensuring that the dark areas do not overpower the lighter, reflective sections.
Step 5: Refining and Cleaning Up
Go back with your initial colours, like Doombull Brown mixed with Heavy Ochre, to smooth out any transitions between shades or correct any oversights. This step also allows you to adjust the contrast and ensure that the lighting looks natural and consistent across the carapace.
Use a fine detail brush to clean up edges or redefine lines that may have become muddled during the painting process.
Step 6: Final Inspection and Adjustments
Once the main painting is complete, inspect the model from various angles to ensure the lighting looks consistent and the NMM effect is convincing. Make any necessary adjustments to the highlights or shadows to perfect the appearance.
Tips for Success:
Lighting Consistency: Keep the light source direction consistent across the model for a cohesive look. Imagine how the light falls on the model and paint accordingly.
Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a smooth transition between shades. This technique is key to achieving a realistic metal appearance.
Controlled Brushwork: Use controlled, precise brush strokes, especially for the finer highlights and shadows, to ensure the best outcome for your NMM effect.
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
This guide provides detailed steps for painting the Necron Overlord Carapace for the miniature from the Indomitus box set.
The next video is how to make his base with sculpting and painting as it’s a large, raised base with rocks, you can quickly jump to it, here:
How to Create a Boulder Base
This guide will walk you how to create a boulder base with realistic large rocks using Milliput for the sculpting part and a selection of Games Workshop paints for painting.
Watch Now
After that will be Abaddon’s face with Red OSL, and then I will start The Light of Eltharion for the Lumineth range (High elves!)
Video: Necron Overlord Carapace
Paints
Games Workshop Doombull Brown, Abaddon Black; Vallejo Heavy Ochre, Heavy Goldbrown, Ice Yellow; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord Carapace NMM
Preparation:
Ensure the carapace is primed and ready for painting. If you have painted other parts of the model, make sure they are protected or carefully work around them.
Step 1: Establishing Base Layers
Start with Doombull Brown as your base layer, covering the entire carapace area. This rich, deep brown will serve as the foundation for building up the gold effect.
Step 2: Building Up Layers
Create a gradient of colours on your palette, starting with Doombull Brown and gradually mixing in Heavy Ochre to lighten the shade. Apply these mixed shades to areas where light naturally hits the carapace, considering your light source to be coming from the top right.
Progress to Heavy Goldbrown, focusing on smaller areas within those previously highlighted. This creates depth and the illusion of a light source affecting the metal’s appearance.
Mix Heavy Goldbrown with Ice Yellow for the next set of highlights, further refining the areas hit by light. This combination starts to give the gold a vibrant, reflective quality.
Step 3: Finishing Highlights
Pure Ice Yellow is used for the highest points of light reflection. Apply this sparingly to the most prominent edges and areas where the light would be strongest.
For the final highlights and to achieve the brightest points of light reflection, use Morrow White. This should be used very sparingly and only on the most elevated areas to simulate the reflection of light on metal.
Step 4: Adjusting Shadows
Use Abaddon Black to glaze into the deepest recesses and shadows of the carapace. This step is crucial for enhancing the contrast, making the NMM effect more pronounced. It’s important to maintain a balance, ensuring that the dark areas do not overpower the lighter, reflective sections.
Step 5: Refining and Cleaning Up
Go back with your initial colours, like Doombull Brown mixed with Heavy Ochre, to smooth out any transitions between shades or correct any oversights. This step also allows you to adjust the contrast and ensure that the lighting looks natural and consistent across the carapace.
Use a fine detail brush to clean up edges or redefine lines that may have become muddled during the painting process.
Step 6: Final Inspection and Adjustments
Once the main painting is complete, inspect the model from various angles to ensure the lighting looks consistent and the NMM effect is convincing. Make any necessary adjustments to the highlights or shadows to perfect the appearance.
Tips for Success:
Lighting Consistency: Keep the light source direction consistent across the model for a cohesive look. Imagine how the light falls on the model and paint accordingly.
Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a smooth transition between shades. This technique is key to achieving a realistic metal appearance.
Controlled Brushwork: Use controlled, precise brush strokes, especially for the finer highlights and shadows, to ensure the best outcome for your NMM effect.
More Necrons? This way!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
In this tutorial, we’ll explore how to paint a necron blade for the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus boxed set, aiming for a standout effect with an alien technology vibe. We’ll employ a combination of vibrant and contrasting colours to achieve this unique look.
Video: How to Paint a Necron Blade
Paints
Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise, Sunset Red, Ice Yellow, Black; Games Workshop Abaddon Black, Ahriman Blue, Incubi Darkness; P3 Morrow White.
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Necron Blade
Step 1: Base Details
Start with Ice Yellow, thinning it with approximately two parts water to one part paint for smooth flow. This thinned mixture should be applied to the recessed circular details on the blade, allowing capillary action to draw the paint into these areas. Let dry, then apply a second coat if needed for opacity.
Step 2: Adding Colour Contrast
Apply Sunset Red (a vibrant magenta/hot pink shade) to further highlight the recessed areas, contrasting sharply with the future turquoise and blue elements. This step enhances the alien technology aspect with its striking colour difference.
Step 3: Initial Highlights
Mix a little white with Sunset Red to desaturate the pink slightly for the first stage of highlights. Focus these lighter pink highlights around the recesses to emphasize the glow effect. Avoid adding too much white to maintain the vibrancy of the pink.
Step 4: Cleaning Up
Once the recessed areas are highlighted, use Vallejo Black (or Games Workshop Abaddon Black) to tidy up the edges around these highlights. This step will sharpen the contrast and make the details pop against the blade’s darker base.
Step 5: Turquoise Application
Begin applying Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise to the flat of the blade. This isn’t aimed at realistic reflection but rather at adding an otherworldly glow. Use this alongside a mix of Turquoise with a small amount of Black for shading and pure Turquoise for mid-tones.
Step 6: Adding Scratches and Texture
For creating scratches and texture on the blade’s surface, use a very fine brush and lightly apply lines using a mix of Turquoise and White, gradually increasing the amount of white for the brightest highlights. Add these scratches sparingly to avoid overwhelming the design.
Step 7: Glazing for Depth
To soften and blend the transitions on the blade, prepare glazes with Ahriman Blue (or an equivalent turquoise shade), Incubi Darkness for dark areas, and Abaddon Black for the deepest shadows. Apply these glazes carefully to merge the highlights and shades smoothly, enhancing the blade’s dimensional appearance.
Step 8: Final Highlights and Adjustments
Using Morrow White, add final spot highlights to the edges and tips of the blade where light would naturally catch the most. This step brings together all the elements, giving the blade a polished, gleaming look that stands out from the rest of the model.
Tips for Success:
Layering: Build up colours gradually, allowing each layer to dry before applying the next. This approach gives you more control over the final outcome.
Contrast: Make use of contrasting colours to create visual interest and highlight the alien nature of the technology.
Texture: Adding small scratches and imperfections can lend realism and character to the blade, suggesting wear and use.
For all of my Tutorials on how I painted this Necron, go here:
Necron Overlord NMM Gold
A series of video tutorials on how I painted this Necro Overlord, with gold non metallic metals and a guide to how to paint his glowing weapons. Plus, a guide on creating his base.
Watch Now
More Necron Tutorials
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
This video shows how to sculpt and paint the base for the Necron Overlord from the Indomitus boxed set.
Video: How to Sculpt and Paint a Necron Overlord Base
Materials Needed
Milliput (Super Fine White preferred, but any type will do)
Sculpting tools and a scalpel
Water or a lubricant like Vaseline for smoothing Milliput
PVA glue and fine grain sand for texture
Paints: Vallejo Model Color Black, Games Workshop Deathworld Forest, Ogryn Camo, Morghast Bone, Ushabti Bone, and Kantor Blue
Weathering pigment (e.g., Forge World Dark Sand)
Brushes, including a small Artist Opus dry brush
Matte varnish for sealing
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Create a Necron Overlord Base
Sculpting the Necron Overlord Base
Mixing Milliput: Take equal parts of Milliput’s two components and knead until uniformly beige. It might initially be flaky; continue until smooth.
Forming the Terrain: Roll the mixed Milliput into a ball and press onto the base. Begin sculpting the rough shape of the terrain using sculpting tools, dipped in water or lubricant to prevent sticking.
Adding Details: Once you have a basic shape, use tools and a scalpel to carve more detailed rock formations. Ensure the terrain is level where the model will stand.
Creating Smaller Rocks: Take excess Milliput, form small balls, and press onto the base to simulate smaller rocks, blending them into the larger mass.
Smoothing and Refining: Continue to refine the shapes, adding crevices and smoothing surfaces. Allow the Milliput to partially dry for easier handling.
Painting the Necron Overlord Base
Base Coat: Once the Milliput is dry, apply a thin base coat of Vallejo Model Color Black. Ensure it’s watered down to cover quickly without obscuring details.
Adding Sand: Apply PVA glue to the base and sprinkle fine grain sand over it for additional texture. Allow to dry.
Applying Weathering Pigment: Use a dark sand weathering pigment, pushing it into crevices and blowing away the excess.
Washing: Create a wash with Deathworld Forest (5 parts water to 1 part paint) and cover the entire base. This will spread the pigment and add depth.
Dry Brushing: Once dry, dry brush the base with Deathworld Forest, followed by Ogryn Camo, focusing on top-down strokes to highlight edges and textures.
Detailing: Use Morghast Bone and Ushabti Bone to pick out individual rocks and edges for added contrast and detail.
Adding Shadows: Water down Kantor Blue and apply it to the undersides of rocks and in shadowed areas to simulate ambient occlusion and enhance depth.
Finishing Touches
Sealing: Once fully painted and dry, apply a matte varnish to seal the weathering pigment and paint, protecting your work.
Base Rim: Tidy up the base’s rim with Vallejo Model Color Black for a neat finish.
Tips
Work in stages, allowing materials to dry fully between steps.
Be creative with your rock shapes but ensure the model will stand level on the finished base.
Use a variety of brush sizes for dry brushing to reach different areas without disturbing the painted model.
Test fit your model frequently on the base during the sculpting process to ensure a good fit
How to Paint a Gold Necron Overlord
Keen to learn how to paint the model standing on this base? Go here:
Necron Overlord NMM Gold
A series of video tutorials on how I painted this Necro Overlord, with gold non metallic metals and a guide to how to paint his glowing weapons. Plus, a guide on creating his base.
Watch Now
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray
Other video tutorials on how to paint the gold for this Necron and my other Necrons are available below!: [...]
If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray