In this guide, we’ll walk through how to paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock with a grimy, non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. The focus will be on creating weathered steel armour and verdigris-weathered copper. You’ll learn to build up layers using stippling and dry brushing, while maintaining the gritty, battle-worn look typical of Skaven. This method is also ideal for quickly painting an entire army to a table-ready standard.
Video – How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock: Part One
Materials Needed:
- Games Workshop Paints: Doombull Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow
- Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow
- Brushes: Large and small dry brushes (Artis Opus recommended, or makeup brushes can suffice), size 0 brush, and others as needed
Step 1: Prime the Model
- Begin by priming your assembled model with Abaddon Black,
Step 2: Base Layer with Mournfang Brown
- Using a large dry brush, apply a base coat of Mournfang Brown using a stippling technique. Thin the paint by mixing it with water (about 50/50 ratio). Ensure the dry brush is damp but not wet to avoid texture buildup.
- Stipple the paint all over the model, ensuring a smooth application with no unwanted texture. This will create a rough surface that adds depth to the dirty, grimy appearance of the armour.
Step 3: Add Neutral Grey Highlights
- Switch to a smaller dry brush for more control, and apply Vallejo Neutral Grey. Again, thin the paint with water (50/50) and lightly stipple the paint over areas where you want the steel effect.
- Focus on armour plates and metallic surfaces, building up a soft layer of grey over the brown to give it a worn metallic look. Let the initial layer of Mournfang Brown peek through to give the impression of rust and grime.
Step 4: Refine the Metallic Layers
- Now, switch to your size 0 brush for more detailed work. Continue building highlights using Neutral Grey but add small amounts of Ice Yellow with each layer.
- Increase the amount of Ice Yellow in each highlight as you progress, eventually reaching pure Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights. Add a final touch of white if you want to push the contrast further.
- Be cautious not to overblend; the strength of this technique lies in the visible transitions between layers, adding texture and a rough, battle-worn appearance.
Step 5: Create Verdigris on Copper Sections
- For the copper elements, begin with Doombull Brown as your base colour. Hold the model under a light to identify the highlight areas. Thin Doombull Brown and apply it to the copper parts of the model.
- Mix Bugman’s Glow with Doombull Brown for the next layer, applying this mix to the raised areas of the copper.
- Progressively add Ice Yellow to Bugman’s Glow for further highlights, working up to nearly pure Ice Yellow. If your copper starts looking too pale, glaze over with a watered-down layer of Doombull Brown to restore some warmth.
Step 6: Add Verdigris Weathering
- To achieve a verdigris effect, mix Vallejo Ice Yellow and Warpstone Glow with water (about 3:1 ratio of water to paint). Apply this to recesses and areas where the copper would naturally oxidise.
- Focus on the joints and edges of the copper parts. As the glaze dries, it will create a subtle verdigris patina, enhancing the aged look of the model.
Step 7: Apply Rusty Shadows and Dark Glazes
- To deepen the shadows on the armour, mix Rhinox Hide with Abaddon Black, thinning it with water (4:1 water to paint). Use this glaze to darken recesses and areas where rust would gather, particularly around the joints and lower sections.
- Glaze carefully to avoid losing the texture created by earlier stippling. Stay away from the brightest highlights to maintain the contrast.
Step 8: Add a Pop of Colour – Warpstone Glow Lens
- For small details like lenses, start by applying Warpstone Glow to the lens, followed by a highlight of Moot Green. Finish with a small dot of Flash Gitz Yellow in the upper corner of the lens for a specular highlight.
- Ensure the lens stands out from the grimy armour to give the model a bit of Skaven flare.
This stage of painting the Skaven Arch-Warlock gives you a quick and effective tabletop-ready look, perfect for gaming or as a base for further refinement. The grimy, weathered appearance suits the Skaven’s lore, while the stippling and dry brushing techniques create a realistic metallic effect without needing an airbrush.
In the next part, we’ll continue with other details such as the weapon, robe, and tail.
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