In my never ending task of not finishing a Nightvault team as I keep seeing new, shiny ones, I have started this Sylvaneth tree guy from Ylthari’s Guardians. I love this model, although it’s a complete pain to get around some of it to paint, now that it’s stuck together.
Paints Used:
The hair is Pink Horror, highlighted with Fulgrim Pink and white, then shaded with Rhinox Hide mixed in and finally glazed with Contrast Volupus Pink in the shadows.
The skin of my Sylvaneth tree guy was Sotek Green highlighted with Ahriman Blue and white mixed. There is some glazing of Warpstone Glow.
The sword is Warpstone Glow highlighted with Moot Green, Dorn Yellow and white, some Mournfang Brown for dodgy reflections and then glazed with Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh, but not over the bright highlights.
The wood and bark is a mess of colours, there is Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Skarsnik Green, Gaus Blaster Green, Ogryn Camo, Highlights of Zamesi Desert, Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. I used spots of Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh, Skeleton Horde and Nazdreg Yellow in various areas to enhance colours.
Make sure you are logged in, then click below to see some of my tutorials for contrast paints!
Contrast Paint Projects
I don’t usually paint true metals as I find them irritating and the metallic particles get everywhere like a glitter bomb. I get a lot of requests for how to paint them though, so I thought I’d record this How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint for you, below!
Video – How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint
Paints Used
The following paints were used: Games Workshop Contrast: Snakebite Leather, Black Templar Games Workshop: Averland Sunset, Ushabti Bone Vallejo: Air Chrome, Air Gunmetal Grey (large pots), Neutral Grey, German Grey, Black (substitute Mechanicum Codex Grey and Abaddon Black)
Step-by-Step : How to Paint an Iron Warrior in True Metallic Metals and Contrast Paint
Initial Preparation
Begin by assembling your Iron Warrior model, ensuring all parts are properly attached except for the head, which should be left unattached for easier painting. Your primary paints will be Vallejo Metal Colour Airbrush Colours, specifically Gunmetal Grey and Chrome, and Games Workshop’s Contrast paints like Snakebite Leather and Black Templar.
Applying the Base Coat
Start with Vallejo’s Air Gunmetal Grey. It’s a true metallic colour, enriched with botanic flakes to achieve a genuine metallic effect. This is in contrast to non-metallic metals which use standard colours to simulate metal. Apply Gunmetal Grey evenly, using a brush for a more organic, less sterile look. This approach maintains the natural shadows in recesses and adds interesting brush strokes.
Highlighting with Chrome
Enhance the model’s metallic sheen by highlighting with Vallejo Air Chrome. Focus on areas where light naturally falls, such as elevated surfaces and curves. The chrome will accentuate these spots, creating a dynamic contrast with the darker Gunmetal Grey. It’s crucial to observe the light interaction with the model to identify the best areas for chrome highlights.
Adding Shadows with Contrast Paint
For deepening shadows and adding depth, use Black Templar Contrast paint. This is particularly effective over metallic paints due to its translucent nature, adding depth without obscuring the metallic shine. Apply carefully to avoid overwhelming the metallic effect.
Detailing with Snakebite Leather
Snakebite Leather Contrast paint is excellent for adding warmth and a tint of colour to the metallics. It’s particularly useful for areas you want to appear weathered or less shiny. Apply sparingly and blend well to maintain a natural look.
Hazard Stripes on Shoulder Pads
Painting hazard stripes requires a steady hand and patience. Start by painting the shoulder pads with Neutral Grey and German Grey, blending these colours to create a mid-tone. Once the base is ready, use Averland Sunset for the yellow stripes. Ensure this paint is thin enough for smooth application but dense enough for good coverage. Carefully paint straight lines, keeping the spacing consistent. Avoid using masking techniques as they can complicate the process and don’t always yield cleaner results.
Finishing Touches
Once the main painting is complete, focus on adding small details like weathering effects, especially on the hazard stripes. Use black paint to simulate chips and scratches, creating a battle-worn look. Also, remember to paint the non-metallic parts, like the ribbing between armour plates, using appropriate grey tones.
Final Assembly and Clean-Up
After painting, reattach the head and any other separate parts. Be sure to clean your brushes thoroughly, especially when switching between metallic and non-metallic paints, to avoid unwanted cross-contamination
More Contrast Paint projects and tutorials:
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This video looks at the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and I use them to paint a very colourful Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer. Read on to watch and follow along with a detailed step-by-step paints and steps guide.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: Mantis Warriors Green (Contrast), Striking Scorpion Green (Contrast), Karandras Green (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Magmadroth Flame (Contrast), Baal Red (Contrast), Doomfire Magenta (Contrast), Sigvald Burgundy (Contrast), Seraphim Sepia (Shade), Flash Gitz Yellow, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Xereus Purple
Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Matt
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Step-by-Step Guide: How to Paint a Sylvaneth Gossamid Archer
Priming and Preparing the Model Start by assembling and priming your Gossamid Archer model. Use Wraithbone as a base colour, which helps in achieving brighter, cleaner colours. If you want an even brighter finish, you can spray the whole model white. A zenithal highlight can be applied to create natural focal points on the head and chest, allowing for more dynamic shading.
Applying Base Colours with Contrast Paints Begin painting with a variety of contrast paints to achieve a vibrant and varied colour scheme. Use a large brush like an Artist Opus size 4 for quick application. Key contrast paints to use are Striking Scorpion Green, Karandras Green, and Garaghak’s Sewer. While the paints are still wet, you can blend them together on the model for a smooth transition. However, be cautious of drying times to avoid streaking.
Correcting and Refining with Airbrush If needed, refine areas with an airbrush. For instance, overpainting with Striking Scorpion Green can provide a more opaque and smoother finish, especially on the wings.
Mixing Contrast Paints with Acrylics Contrast paints can be mixed with regular acrylics for more versatility. Mix Striking Scorpion Green with P3 Morrow White to create various shades for highlighting. This method allows for smooth transitions and a semi-translucent finish.
Painting Wings with Dragonfly Effect For a dragonfly-like effect on the wings, use a mix of Striking Scorpion Green and white to paint vein-like lines, emulating a dragonfly’s wing pattern. Start with basic lines, then create four-sided shapes like rectangles or squares, resembling the vein structure. The lines don’t need to be perfect, as the organic nature of the wings allows for some variation. Ensure your brush isn’t overloaded with paint for finer lines.
Skin and Body Details For the skin, use Magmadroth Flame contrast paint, which provides a strong, vibrant base while still allowing for natural shading in recesses. For the arm and other body parts, apply Sigvald Burgundy, Baal Red, Doomfire Magenta, and other contrast colours, blending while they are wet for a smooth transition. Use smaller brushes for detailed areas, and ensure you cover all surfaces.
Highlighting and Detailing Highlight the skin by mixing Magmadroth Flame with Kislev Flesh, gradually adding more Kislev Flesh and white for higher highlights. Apply these mixes to the raised areas like shoulders, chest, and arms. For the hair, start with a vibrant base of Flash Gitz Yellow, dulled down with a Seraphim Sepia wash. Highlight by adding white to Flash Gitz Yellow for a striking effect.
Bow and Other Accessories Paint the bow using Rhinox Hide, XV-88, and Balor Brown, adding white for final highlights. Keep the painting simple, avoiding overly intricate freehand patterns unless desired. Remember to mix and match colours to add more interest to the model.
Finishing Touches with Matt Varnish Once the painting is complete, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This will unify the finish of the model, reducing any unwanted shine from the contrast paints and enhancing the overall appearance.
More Contrast Paint Projects and Tutorials
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This video tutorial looks at how to paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paints, using a couple of the new Contrast paints from Games Workshop and specifically using ‘Imperial Fist’ paint! I also go through top techniques and tips you can use on all your Space Marines.
Video Tutorial: How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!).
The following paints and materials were used:
Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Yriel Yellow, Sotek Green, Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand, Imperial Fist (Contrast), Garaghak’s Sewer (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull
Vallejo: German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black Vallejo: Mecha Varnish Gloss, Mecha Varnish Matt, Metal Exhaust Manifold
P3: Morrow White (Any White will do)
Micro Set
BrushesArtis Opus: Series S size 1 and 00,
Step by Step Guide – How to Paint Imperial Fists with Contrast Paint
Preparing the Base Coat
Start with Mournfang Brown as the base coat. This provides a solid foundation and eliminates black elements that might affect the final colour. Apply a thin, even layer to ensure a smooth finish.
Creating a Pre-Shade Effect
To create a pre-shade effect, mix P3 Morrow White with Mournfang Brown. This technique helps in achieving both highlights and shadows in one go. Avoid taking the pre-shade highlight all the way up to pure white unless you desire a very bright yellow.
Applying Imperial Fist Contrast Paint
Use the Imperial Fist contrast paint, a bright yellow, over the pre-shaded model. This contrast paint is translucent and needs a light base for optimal results. Apply it evenly, focusing on the model’s raised areas to enhance the pre-shade effect. If the first coat appears too orange, apply a light layer of P3 Morrow White on the desired areas and reapply the contrast paint for a brighter yellow.
Enhancing Highlights with White
For areas requiring a more vibrant yellow, directly apply P3 Morrow White using an airbrush. This step significantly brightens up the yellow tones, providing a more striking appearance to the model.
Adding Depth with Contrast Paints
Experiment with Rattling Grime contrast paint for adding depth. If it appears too dark, dilute it with Contrast Medium. Apply it sparingly, especially in recessed areas, to create natural shadows.
Applying Matte Varnish
Once the contrast paints are dry, apply a coat of Vallejo Mecha Varnish Matt. This helps to dull any unwanted shine and sets the base for further detailing.
Glazing with Yriel Yellow
Create a glaze by heavily thinning down Yriel Yellow with water. Apply this glaze selectively to the model’s raised areas, building up the colour in thin layers. This process enhances the vibrancy of the yellow and adds more dimension.
Detailing with Additional Colours
Use Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for detailing elements like scroll work. These colours contrast well with the yellow and bring out the finer details. For battle damage, use Rhinox Hide or a similar dark colour to create chips and scratches.
Highlighting Battle Damage
Mix Yriel Yellow with a bit of white (or use Dawn Yellow) for highlighting the lower edges of the battle damage. This creates a more realistic chipped paint effect.
Painting the Weapon
For the bolter or other weapons, use a combination of German Grey and Neutral Grey from Vallejo. Apply them in a gradient for a realistic metallic effect, and use black to blend and soften transitions.
Lenses and Eyes
Paint lenses and eyes using Sotek Green, gradually adding white to the mix for successive highlights. Ensure the brightest highlights are off-centre for a natural glow effect.
Finishing Touches
Finally, apply Forge World Weathering Powder Dark Sand to the base and lower parts of the legs for a gritty, battle-worn look. Seal with a matte varnish to fix the powder in place.
More Contrast Paint Tutorial and Projects
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A quick and simple video tutorial in how to paint this friendly little Gloomspite Gitz Grot with Contrast paints and apply varnish to bring the colours together and finish the piece. The key is to work fast with Contrast paints, allowing their properties to create natural shadows and highlights, and then refining with traditional paints for a more polished finish.
Video Tutorial – Gloomspite Gitz Grot in Contrast Paint
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Materials List for Painting Gloomspite Gitz with Contrast Paint
Brushes:
Various brushes suitable for applying contrast paints and doing detail work – I use Artist Opus range for details, with a standard general brush for applying the paint more roughly.
Primer:
Vallejo Surface Primer Black: For the initial priming of the models.
Games Workshop Wraithbone spray can: Used for zenithal highlights.
Contrast Paints (Games Workshop)
Black Templar: For dark areas like robes.
Plaguebearer Flesh: For skin.
Iyanden Yellow: For ropes and feet.
Nazdreg Yellow: Alternative option for ropes and feet.
Flesh Tearers Red: For red elements on the models.
Additional Paints:
Games Workshop Daemonette Hide: For highlighting black areas.
Games Workshop Dorn Yellow: For enhancing yellow areas.
Games Workshop Blue Horror: For brighter highlights.
Games Workshop Ceramite White: For final, brightest highlights.
Games Workshop Skavenblight Dinge: For non-metallic metal effects.
Varnish:
AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish: For finishing and protecting the painted models.
Other Materials:
Water for thinning paints and cleaning brushes.
A palette for mixing paints.
Kitchen roll or a similar material for wiping and adjusting brush moisture.
Airbrush (Optional):
Recommended for a smoother zenithal highlight application compared to using a rattle can.
Step-by-Step Guide
Priming and Base Highlights:
Prime the models with Vallejo Surface Primer Black.
Use Games Workshop’s Wraithbone spray for zenithal highlights, creating a directional light effect to enhance contrast paint application.
Applying Contrast Paints:
Start with the skin using Games Workshop’s Plaguebearer Flesh. Be relatively quick and don’t worry excessively about neatness.
For darker areas like robes, use Black Templar. Apply it straight out of the pot, allowing it to flow into recesses.
Paint the ropes and feet with a brown contrast paint like Iyanden Yellow or Nazdreg Yellow.
Use Flesh Tearers Red for red elements, considering multiple coats for a smoother finish.
Additional Details:
For weapons, you can opt for a simple black base and metallic highlights, or try a non-metallic metal (NMM) approach using neutral grays.
To enhance yellow areas that are translucent and show speckles, use Dorn Yellow for edge highlights and additional coats.
Refining and Enhancing:
Use Daemonette Hide to pick out highlights, particularly on black areas. Vertical strokes can emphasize cloth folds.
Add brighter highlights with Blue Horror, focusing on raised areas and edges for a sharper look.
Finalize the highlights with Ceramite White, adding small touches to the most prominent areas.
Correcting Mistakes and Blending:
If you make mistakes or need to blend areas, use appropriate contrast paints or a mix with water for glazing and tinting.
Varnishing:
Once painting is complete, apply an ultra-matte varnish (like AK Interactive Ultra Matte) to unify the finish and protect the paint. This can be done by hand or with an airbrush. Be cautious of pooling and bubbles.
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Two videos on how I painted this Rockgut Troggoth quickly using Contrast Paints, with step by step guides to the methods I used with which paints. Read on and good luck!
Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step GuideVideo Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast PaintsMaterials and Paints:StepsShow it off!More Free Video Tutorials
Video One – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints
All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.
Paints and Materials Needed
Black Primer
Wraithbone (Games Workshop)
Contrast Paints (Magos Purple, Skeleton Horde, Wyldwood, Aethermatic Blue, Black Templar – all from Games Workshop)
P3 Morrow White (or any alternative white paint)
Fine Brushes
Airbrush (optional)
Wet Palette
Step by Step Guide
Base Coating with Contrast Paints: After priming your Rockgut Troggoth with black and then applying a zenithal highlight of Wraithbone (using an airbrush or rattle-can), start applying contrast paints. Focus on using Magos Purple for the skin, being generous with the paint to ensure proper flow and coverage.
Handling Overpainting and Pooling: If you accidentally overpaint or encounter pooling, use a clean brush to soak up the excess. Remember, contrast paints are designed to settle in recesses, so a heavier application is acceptable.
Painting Other Elements: Use different contrast paints for various parts of the model. Apply Skeleton Horde for the teeth, toenails, and wrappings, and Wildwood for the hammer’s handle. The nature of contrast paints means they will flow into crevices and recesses, creating natural shadows.
Applying Contrast to the Rocky Skin: For the rocky skin and other stone-like textures, use Aethermatic Blue. The contrast paints will naturally create a depth effect, with darker areas in recesses and brighter highlights on raised surfaces.
Utilising Black Templar for Darker Areas: Apply Black Templar contrast paint for the rock elements and the loincloth. This step will provide a solid base and emphasise the darker regions of the Troggoth.
Review and Adjust: Once all the contrast paints are applied, review your model. The use of different contrast paints should have already created a variety of tones and shades on the model. If necessary, touch up any areas where the paint may have pooled excessively or where coverage is uneven.
Enhancing Highlights on the Skin: To enhance the skin, mix some P3 Morrow White with Magos Purple to create a light purple hue. Apply this mixture to the skin’s raised areas, following the zenithal highlights you established earlier. This step will add more depth and dimension to the Troggoth’s skin.
Adding Detail to Crystal Skin: For the crystal-like skin, create a mixture of Wraithbone and Aethermatic Blue. Focus on painting the flat, upward-facing surfaces of the crystals to mimic the appearance of hard, reflective edges.
Video Two – How to Paint a Troggoth in Contrast Paints
Materials and Paints:
Games Workshop: Magos Purple (Contrast), Plaguebearer Flesh (Contrast), Slaanesh Grey, Daemonette Hide, Balor Brown, Moot Green, XV-88, Zandri Dust, Ushabti Bone, Naggaroth Night
Vallejo: Ice Yellow (or Dorn Yellow)
P3: Morrow White (or White Scar)
Steps
Rock-Like Skin Textures:
Mix Aethermatic Blue with white for a greeny-grey shade.
Apply to the flat surfaces and edges of the rocky textures.
Highlight with pure white (Morrow White/White Scar).
Skin Highlights:
Use pre-mixed Magos Purple and white for primary skin highlights.
Add secondary highlights with Slaanesh Grey and Daemonette Hide, focusing on reflective light areas.
Wood Detailing:
Apply Balor Brown for the base wood grain on the mallet.
Highlight progressively with XV-88 and Zandri Dust.
Final highlights with Ushabti Bone.
Rock and Wood Texturing:
Glaze rock textures with Naggaroth Night to deepen shadows.
Lightly glaze wood with Plaguebearer Flesh for a mossy effect.
Loincloth and Trinkets:
Base the loincloth with XV-88, highlight with Zandri Dust, and then Ushabti Bone.
Paint trinkets starting with XV-88, highlight with Balor Brown, then Ice Yellow for brightest points.
Final Highlights and Adjustments:
Reapply Magos Purple and white mix on skin for final highlights.
Highlight rock textures with Morrow White.
Apply Moot Green selectively for contrast, especially in shadows.
Unify with Naggaroth Night glaze to smooth transitions and deepen shadows.
Troggoth Eyes and Claws:
Base eyes with Yriel Yellow, add a white dot for the pupil.
Claw highlights with Ushabti Bone for depth.
Show it off!
As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂
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Continuing on How to Paint Yellow Marines, I decided that I couldn’t live with a clean marine and took the airbrushed guy I’d painted and weathered him up. I added chipping all over, weathering powder to his feet, increased the tonal contrast and then changed his eyes to glowing; finally I gave him a coat of matte varnish to kill the satin finish. I think he looks quite mean now, and I am much happier to paint an army like this. Total time around 2.5 hours, although he is still missing the Fist symbol.
Learn how to paint yellow marines like I do in these tutorials!:
How to Paint an Imperial Fist Space Marine to Tabletop Standard
In this guide, we’ll walk through the steps to paint an Imperial Fist Space Marine quickly and effectively to tabletop standard. This tutorial uses an airbrush for the base coats, followed by detailed brushwork for finishing touches.
Watch Now
MKVI Imperial Fists
In this guide you will be shown how to paint Imperial Fists in MKVI (Beakie) armour, from the Horus Heresy.
Watch Now
Imperial Fist with Heavy Bolters – No Airbrush or Oils needed!
In this guide you will be shown how to paint Imperial Fists with Heavy Bolters without the need for an Airbrush or Oil Paints!
Watch Now
More tutorials on painting Space Marines!
If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
I’ve been on a painting mission to get this Gloomspite Gitz Troggoth guy painted quickly. He’s done using the same process as the previous version I painted (zenithal base – Contrast paint – standard painting on top.) I ended up taking him a little further than the last guy by adding more texture and a bit of contrasting colour, as well as pushing the lighting aspect a bit more. I very, very nearly have a playable Gloomspite Gitz army now!
To watch a video tutorial on how I painted this figure with contrast paints, follow this link:
Video Tutorials : Troggoth in Contrast Paints
More Contrast Paint projects and tutorials:
Free Video Tutorials
Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
In my never ending task of not finishing a Nightvault team as I keep seeing new, shiny ones, I have started this Sylvaneth tree guy from Ylthari’s Guardians. I love this model, although it’s a complete pain to get around some of it to paint, now that it’s stuck together.
Paints Used:
The hair is Pink Horror, highlighted with Fulgrim Pink and white, then shaded with Rhinox Hide mixed in and finally glazed with Contrast Volupus Pink in the shadows.
The skin of my Sylvaneth tree guy was Sotek Green highlighted with Ahriman Blue and white mixed. There is some glazing of Warpstone Glow.
The sword is Warpstone Glow highlighted with Moot Green, Dorn Yellow and white, some Mournfang Brown for dodgy reflections and then glazed with Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh, but not over the bright highlights.
The wood and bark is a mess of colours, there is Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Skarsnik Green, Gaus Blaster Green, Ogryn Camo, Highlights of Zamesi Desert, Ushabti Bone and Screaming Skull. I used spots of Contrast Plaguebearer Flesh, Skeleton Horde and Nazdreg Yellow in various areas to enhance colours.
Make sure you are logged in, then click below to see some of my tutorials for contrast paints!
The air sings with glorious life magic as the children of Alarielle surge into battle. The reborn goddess of war leads from the front as glorious Wyldwoods burst forth from the heaving ground, called into being by ancient spirits. Determined to protect the Realm of Life, mighty Wargroves advance, crushing enemies with the inexorable strength of nature. Outcasts and Free Spirits strike suddenly and without warning, slaughtering the foe mercilessly to cleanse the tainted land. The rebirth of the sylvaneth will be remembered as a harbinger of absolute vengeance.Sylvaneth – Age of Sigmar Wiki [...]
More Contrast paints experimentation, you won’t get these results out of the pot. I started with a black prime and then a zenithal highlight with Wraithbone base with my airbrush. I coated the body of the model with Skeleton Horde and the tentacles with Magos Purple. After that I shaded the body with Fyreslayer Flesh (no dilution). After this I airbrushed Plaguebearer Flesh on all of the highlights on the body and the shadows on the tentacles… due to the translucency of the paint the details showed through beneath.I made highlights for the body by mixing Plaguebearer Flesh with Wraithbone and just picked out some nice light points For the tentacles I mixed Magos Purple with Wraithbone and painted on some lines. All of the shiny yellow nurgle pustules were just Yriel yellow, I painted a highlight spot and then a reflection line on the lower part. The claws and teeth were Zandri Dust and Ushabti Bone plus Ceramite White, straight over the top of the Contrast paints from the body. I then gave the whole model a coat of matte varnish and picked out a few areas in gloss.The back of the model isn’t highlighted or detailed yet. Total time so far about 2.5 hours, but waiting for the body to dry took a long time as I put a really heavy layer on. Watch this space for more Contrast paints experimentation and explore my other Contrast projects, below!
Here are some more projects and video tutorials using contrast paints:
Free Video Tutorials
Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page!
If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
The air sings with glorious life magic as the children of Alarielle surge into battle. The reborn goddess of war leads from the front as glorious Wyldwoods burst forth from the heaving ground, called into being by ancient spirits. Determined to protect the Realm of Life, mighty Wargroves advance, crushing enemies with the inexorable strength of nature. Outcasts and Free Spirits strike suddenly and without warning, slaughtering the foe mercilessly to cleanse the tainted land. The rebirth of the sylvaneth will be remembered as a harbinger of absolute vengeance.[1]
Sylvaneth – Age of Sigmar Wiki