I was lucky enough to be sent an early review copy of Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia from the Age of Sigmar Fangs of the Blood Queen set, and am really enjoying painting her, so far. I’ve gone for a weathered bronze effect in NMM. I will be moving on to her red cape, which I will paint in a satin effect and she will have some nice gems in her hat (which I rather like). Finally, I will show you how to paint her skin in a suitably undead fashion!
The first tutorial is already up, if you would like to explore it now:
How to Paint Sekhar Fang of Nulahmiia from Fangs of the Blood Queen
I was lucky enough to be sent Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia by Games Workshop as an early review copy and couldn’t wait to paint her up for you. I’ve gone for an aged bronze look for her. Read on for my tutorials so far on how to paint her, with paints and step-by-step guide.
More about the fearsome Sekhar!
Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia, emerges from the shadowed lands of Nulahmia as a figure of dread and awe, serving as one of Neferata’s most deadly and skilled envoys. Renowned for her mastery in the art of hypnotism, Sekhar wields her power to bend the wills of even those with formidable resolve. Among her most notable thralls is Ouboroth, a once mighty death god now reduced to a perpetual state of hunger, serving as her lethal companion. On the battlefield, Sekhar is never alone; she is the heart of a dark swarm, with packs of Dire Wolves hunting at her command and Fell Bats darkening the skies above. Together, they harry her foes, offering no quarter, no escape.
More on the Fangs of the Blood Queen set…
This boxed set “Fangs of the Blood Queen” presents Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia, in her debut appearance, equipped for war with the fearsome Nulahmian warglaive and the echoing presence of the serpent god, Ouboroth. Accompanying her into the fray are 10 Dire Wolves, her loyal hunters, and three Fell Bats, her eyes and wings in the sky.
The set not only brings these formidable models to life in multipart plastic but also offers the tactical depth to field Sekhar in Soulblight Gravelord armies, introducing the Scions of Nulahmia army of renown through the lore and rules detailed in Dawnbringers: Book IV – The Mad King Rises.
More Undead Painting Tutorials!
Vampires and Undead
October 17, 2024In this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf from the new Chaos Dwarf Blood Bowl box, provided by Games Workshop as an early review copy. We’ll be focusing on achieving a high tabletop standard, using a combination of classic paint colours and techniques to bring out the rich, detailed character of the model. Whether you’re painting for your next game or aiming for a display-worthy finish, this step-by-step guide will help you tackle everything from non-metallic metal gold to vibrant red armour, all while keeping the process efficient and enjoyable.
Video – How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf
Step-by-Step Guide
Materials Required:
Games Workshop Paints:
Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Bugman’s Glow, Night Lords Blue, Rhinox Hide
Vallejo Paints:
Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey
Two Thin Coats Paints:
Dark Sun YellowWhite Star
Brushes: Artis Opus Size 1 Brush, Artis Opus Size 00 Brush
Other Tools: Wet Palette, Lamp (for checking light placement), Water Jar
How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf
Step 1: Priming
Start by priming the model using Mephiston Red as the base coat. You can use an airbrush or a hand brush to apply it. This will form the base of the red armour and speed up the process.
Step 2: Painting the Beard
For the beard, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to base coat it.
Highlight the beard using Vallejo Neutral Grey. Apply this in parallel strokes to follow the sculpted lines of the beard.
Add some final highlights by mixing Neutral Grey with a bit of White Star and pick out raised areas.
Step 3: Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim
For the gold trim, begin with XV-88 as the base colour. This provides a solid foundation for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect.
Create your first highlight mix with Dark Sun Yellow. Layer this on top of the XV-88, leaving some of the base visible.
Gradually lighten the gold by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with White Star. Apply smaller, more precise highlights with each layer.
To give the gold a bit more warmth, you can glaze over areas with XV-88 or add subtle orange tints using Troll Slayer Orange in the shadowed areas.
Step 4: Painting the Red Armour
After the Mephiston Red base, layer on Evil Sunz Scarlet. Use a stippling or scratchy technique to give texture to the armour.
For shadowing, use Night Lords Blue in the recesses and shaded areas, being careful not to overwhelm the red.
If needed, go back with Evil Sunz Scarlet to reinforce the red and add brightness.
Step 5: Shading and Highlighting the Face
Wash the face with a thinned-down layer of Rhinox Hide (4 parts water, 1 part paint) to shade it and separate it from the rest of the armour.
Highlight the face using Bugman’s Glow, focusing on the raised areas like the nose, cheeks, and brow.
For brighter highlights, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow (or White Star if you don’t have Ice Yellow) to add subtle highlights to key areas like the cheekbones and nose bridge.
Step 6: Painting the Eyes
Paint the whites of the eyes using a light grey rather than pure white to keep it natural.
Use black to paint the pupil and iris in one go, as these are very small details that don’t require too much fine detail.
Step 7: Painting the Teeth and Horns
Base the teeth and horns with Morghast Bone. You can use the same colour for both areas to keep consistency.
Add highlights using White Star on the tips of the teeth and horns, carefully placing small dots or lines for a shine effect.
Step 8: Painting the Leather Areas
The gloves and boots can be painted with the same colours as the horns. Start with XV-88 for the base coat, then highlight with Morghast Bone, but don’t take the highlights up to white for these areas.
Step 9: Finishing Touches
Once the main areas are painted, go back and refine any details that need sharpening, such as the edges of the armour or the highlights on the face.
If the red armour starts looking too dark or the highlights become too muted, reapply Evil Sunz Scarlet in fine marks to bring the vibrancy back.
Step 10: Final Shading and Glazing
For a final touch, glaze over the non-metallic gold areas with a thin mix of XV-88 to enhance the richness of the colour.
You can add extra depth to the shadows by applying a thin wash of Night Lords Blue in the deepest recesses of the red armour.
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April 17, 2024This is another video looking at Sekhar the vampire, this time focusing on how to paint a skeleton with glowing eyes for the model on her base. This video looks at the skeleton, how to paint his glowing eyes, sword and bones etc. The whole model is covered!
Video: How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes
Materials needed:
Skeleton ModelPriming spray (I’ve used black!)
Brushes:I use the Artist Opus range of brushesFine detail brushMedium-sized brushLarge brush (optional, for basecoating larger areas)
Wet Palette (for mixing and thinning paints)Varnish (to protect the finished paint job)
Paints:All paints mentioned are from Games Workshop’s Citadel range.
Yriel Yellow
Moot Green
Balor Brown
Morghast Bone
Screaming Skull
Mournfang Brown
XV-88
Rhinox Hide
Other Materials:
Rocks or pebblesFoliage (such as static grass or miniature leaves)Sand or texture paste (for ground texture)Super glue (for attaching basing materials)Water (for thinning paints)Paper towels or cloth to ensure your brushes are totally clean!
How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes – Step 1: Priming
Prime your model with a suitable undercoat. Black is recommended as it provides a good base for both the glowing effects and the shadowed recesses of the skeleton.
Step 2: Base Coating
Skeleton: Apply a thin base coat of XV-88 over the entire skeleton. Ensure the paint is thinned with water to maintain detail.
Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with Kimera White. Given the deep recesses, apply multiple thin layers to build up a solid white base. Patience is key here to avoid a textured look.
Step 3: Adding Depth to Eyes
Mix Yriel Yellow with Kimera White to create a pale yellow. Carefully fill in the eye sockets, leaving the deepest part still white to simulate glow.
Gradually add more Yriel Yellow towards the front of the eye sockets, intensifying the colour as you move forwards.
Define the edges of the sockets with Moot Green to enhance the glow effect, blending it slightly into the yellow for a smooth transition.
Step 4: Skeletal Detailing
General Bone Texture: Lightly dry brush the skeleton with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 to bring out the texture.
Enhanced Details: Use Morghast Bone to highlight edges and raised details across the bones.
Deepening Shadows: Mix Rhinox Hide with a small amount of black to create shadows in the deeper recesses and under the bones for added depth.
Step 5: Sword and Metallic Effects
Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey as a base for the sword and any metallic elements.
Weathering: Add scratch effects using Troll Slayer Orange mixed with Mournfang Brown to simulate rust and age.
Highlights: Use Screaming Skull to pick out edges and features, giving the impression of worn, yet still sharp, metal.
Step 6: Final Touches
Refining Glows: Go back to the eyes, adding pure Yriel Yellow to the centres and intensifying the green at the edges if necessary.
Blending and Smoothing: Use glazes of the base colours to smooth out transitions and unify the appearance, particularly around the eye sockets and on the sword to blend the rust effects.
Contrasting Details: For a final layer of detail, use Screaming Skull to highlight teeth, knuckles, and other small bone protrusions, adding a subtle layer of Rhinox Hide for ageing.
Step 7: Sealing the Model
Once fully satisfied with your painting, seal the model with a matte varnish to protect your work and reduce any unwanted shininess, ensuring the skeletal figure looks as haunting in the display case as it does on the battlefield.
Explore more of my Golden Demon entry tutorials
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April 11, 2024A small series on how to paint Rodney Roachbait, the new Blood Bowl star player for their Gnome team! In these videos we will explore lots of different textures and techniques a lot different to my usual moody and dark style. I hope you enjoy following along as much as I enjoyed painting him.
Video Part One: How to paint Rodney Roachbait – Base colours, skin, beard and jumper.
Although the model is painted to a high standard the techniques can still be used for tabletop gaming. This first part looks at preparing all of the base colours for the model, the skin, beard and jumper.
Materials List
Brushes:Fine Detail Brush, Standard Brush, Drybrush – I use the Artis Opus range of brushes.
Paints:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Contrast Dark Oath Flesh, Sotek GreenKimera Colours: Fallen GrassWhite (or P3 Morrow White)Sun Ray (or Vallejo Ice Yellow)Vallejo: Neutral GreyOther Materials: PVA Glue, Gloss Varnish, Magnifying Headset
Steps and Tips on How to Paint Rodney Roachbait
Preparation and Base Colour: I recommend using a headset to enhance visibility on this model as he is very, VERY small. I’ve based coated him black to begin.
Base Colour Application: Begin by applying a base colour to the entire model to avoid the prominence of black from the primer. Use Rhinox Hide to block in areas like the hat and the ball. However, upon closer inspection, I realised he wore waders instead of boots, so I switched to Mournfang Brown as the base colour for the waders to avoid excessive brown tones. Paint the strap holding the fish carcass onto the hat using Mournfang Brown. When painting resin models like this one, you may notice slight lines, but these are easily obscured with paint.
Addressing Imperfections: However, there are more pressing imperfections on this model – if you have some, like resin air bubbles, fill them with PVA glue and painting over. For the strap over the hat, use Fallen Grass from Chimera Colors. These paints are single-pigment, avoiding separation issues common with other paints. Mixing them with Games Workshop paints adds a satin finish to maintain colour vibrancy while avoiding using varnish, which can interfere with the model’s look.
Painting Specific Areas: For specific areas like the jumper, use Sotek Green for a matte finish, while the leather hat has a satin finish achieved by mixing in Games Workshop paints. Paint the fish head and tail using Sotek Green and Balthasar Gold for the bony parts.
Adding Depth: After basic block-ins, apply a thinned-down contrast paint, Dark Oath Flesh, over the model to give it a slight filter effect. This helps tie the colours together and softens harsh lines, especially on resin models with sharp details. Take care when using contrast paint, as it may pool in recesses, requiring careful cleanup. Once dry, it adds depth and subtle shading to the model.
Correcting Imperfections: Apply gloss varnish to smooth out any unwanted textures, like creases on the cheeks, providing a polished finish.
More tutorials for him to follow! In the mean time, why not explore my other videos?
If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
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April 8, 2024My detailed how to paint the Nagash helmet tutorials, with videos plus step by step guide and tips with full paints used.
Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part OnePaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsSteps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash HelmetVideo – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part TwoPaintsSteps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet (Part Two)Video – How to Paint the Nagash Freehand Swirls/FiligreePaintsTips for the Freehand FiligreeVideo – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and RunesPaintsStep and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and RunesFor all of my Nagash Tutorials in one place, go hereExplore More Nagash Technique Tutorials
Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part One
In this tutorial, we’ll focus on painting the metallic areas of Nagash, specifically the head. The colours used for this tutorial are a bit different from the standard, and in the video I discuss techniques in more detail to achieve a textured, refined finish.
Paints and Materials Used
Paints
Vallejo:
English Uniform (VX-88)
Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow)
Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green)
Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow)
Ivory (Screaming Skull)
Games Workshop:
Rhinox Hide
Abaddon Black
Naggaroth Night (for future use)
Brushes
Fine detail brush (suitable for intricate work and small highlights)
Medium-sized brush (for larger areas and base coating)
Wet palette (to keep paints fresh and workable)
Other Materials
Wet palette
Green stuff (for sculpting additional details, if desired)
Painting lamp (for consistent lighting during the painting process)
Miniature holder (for ease of handling and painting)
Steps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet
Prepare the Model: Ensure your miniature is assembled and primed appropriately for painting. I’ve used a black primer for my Nagash.
Block in the Base Colour: Start by blocking in the main highlights using Vallejo’s English Uniform (VX-88). Apply this colour where you want the primary light source to hit, focusing on a top-left orientation.Be mindful not to make the colour too opaque; a slight texture is desirable for the metallic effect.
Understanding Colour Choices: The choice of metallic colours doesn’t have to be conventional. For this model, I went for a dark and moody theme inspired by the artwork of Nagash.My chosen metallic shades include Golden Olive, Yellow Green, and Ice Yellow from Vallejo, along with Rhinox Hide and Abaddon Black from Games Workshop.
Building Layers of Colour: Use Golden Olive to build layers on top of the English Uniform, focusing on areas that require additional depth and shading.The opacity of Vallejo paints allows for strong, defined marks, ideal for creating small details and textures.
Creating Texture and Depth: With each layer, gradually introduce lighter shades such as Yellow Green and Ice Yellow to enhance highlights and add dimension to the metallic surfaces.Keep in mind the direction of light and focus on maintaining a balance between light and shadow.
Understanding Volume and Light: Highlighting metallic surfaces requires understanding how light interacts with volume. Unlike standard blending techniques, aim for distinct contrasts between light and shadow. Make sure you consider how light reflects off different surfaces, creating highlights and shadows of varying intensities. I like to use lots of real-life references of metal to study as I paint.
Achieving a Moody Atmosphere: For an undead character like Nagash, aim for a dark, desaturated overall appearance. Use strong, small highlights strategically to draw attention to focal points.
Avoid smooth blending; purposefully textured painting adds depth and character to the model.
Experimenting with Glazing TechniquesExperiment with glazing techniques to blend colours seamlessly and soften transitions between different areas of the model.Glazing allows for subtle colour adjustments and can help unify the overall color scheme, creating a harmonious visual effect.
Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part Two
In this part, we’ll focus on painting the skull face, hair, and bone structures atop the hat.
Paints
Vallejo Model Colour: English Uniform (VX-88), Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow), Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green), Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow), Ivory (Screaming Skull), Neutral Grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey), Pale Grey Blue (Grey Seer mixed with Blue Horror)
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Warpstone Green Contrast, Deathclaw Brown
P3: Morrow White
Steps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet (Part Two)
Paint the Bone Structures: Using Vallejo’s English Uniform (VX-88), begin by painting the bone structures on top of the hat. Focus on picking out the highlights, keeping in mind the top-left orientation of the light source. Apply the paint carefully to emphasize the edges and contours of the bones.Enhance the Bone Texture: Utilise Golden Olive (a mix of Elysian Green and Yriel Yellow) to add depth and shading to the bone structures. Concentrate on areas that require additional definition, such as the joints and sockets. Remember to maintain a balance between light and shadow to create a realistic, textured effect.Add Highlights: With Yellow Green (a mix of Dorn Yellow and Moot Green), further highlight the bone structures, focusing on the areas where light would naturally hit. Pay attention to the left-hand side of the model to create a stronger contrast and emphasise the lighting direction.Refine the Highlights: Using Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow), continue to build up the highlights on the bone structures, especially on the left-hand side. Gradually increase the brightness of the highlights towards the center of the model to draw attention to focal points.Adjusting with Rhinox Hide: If necessary, use Rhinox Hide to refine any areas where you’ve made mistakes or to add depth to the shadows. The translucency of this paint allows for easy blending and adjustment while maintaining a natural look.Painting the Skull Face: For the skull face, start with Deathclaw Brown, focusing on creating a weathered, textured appearance. Apply the paint in a rough, uneven manner to mimic the natural wear and tear of ancient bones.Highlighting the Skull: Gradually add highlights to the skull using Morghast Bone. Concentrate the highlights towards the left-hand side of the face to maintain consistency with the overall lighting scheme. Ensure the highlights stand out against the darker base colour to create depth and dimension.Adding Detail to the Eyes: Use a small amount of Morghast Bone to pick out the details around the eyes, emphasising the cheekbones and brow ridge. Be mindful of the sculpted eye sockets and adjust the highlights accordingly to enhance the overall appearance.Painting the Hair: Begin painting the hair with Neutral Grey, focusing on the large, clumpy strands. Keep the highlights towards the top side of the hair to simulate light hitting the surface. Apply the paint in a rough, textured manner to achieve a realistic look.Adding Texture to the Hair: Continue to build up the texture of the hair using Pale Grey Blue. Emphasize the highlights on the top side of the hair while leaving the underside darker to create depth and volume.Refining the Highlights: Using Morrow White sparingly, refine the highlights on the hair strands to add contrast and dimension. Focus on the areas closest to the face to draw attention to the focal points.
Video – How to Paint the Nagash Freehand Swirls/Filigree
Paints
Vallejo: English Uniform (VX-88), Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow), Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green), Ivory (Screaming Skull), Neutral Grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey), Pale Grey Blue (Grey Seer mixed with Blue Horror)Games Workshop: Warpstone Green Contrast, Abaddon BlackP3: Morrow White
Tips for the Freehand Filigree
Base Coat: Apply a base coat of Vallejo English Uniform (VX-88) to start the filigree on the Nagash hat. Ensure even coverage and allow it to dry completely.
Highlighting with Yellow-Green: Mix Vallejo Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green) with a small amount of white to increase opacity. Use a fine tip brush to apply highlights to what would be the raised areas of the filigree. Focus on creating sharp lines and highlights to enhance the detail.
Adding Ivory Highlight Dots: Using Vallejo Ivory (Screaming Skull), create small highlight dots on the filigree. These dots should be strategically placed on curves and extreme curve points to simulate shine and reflectivity. Ensure consistency in placement for a cohesive look.
Enhancing Contrast with Black: With Games Workshop Abaddon Black, carefully outline the filigree details to enhance contrast and definition. Use a fine tip brush and steady hand to create clean lines and borders.
Glazing with Warpstone Green Contrast: Thin Games Workshop Warpstone Green Contrast with water (about two parts water to one part paint) to create a glaze. Apply the glaze over the filigree to enhance shading and highlights.
Final Touches: Use P3 Morrow White to add final highlights to the filigree, focusing on the most raised and reflective areas. Ensure consistency and restraint with the white highlights to avoid overpowering the overall effect.
Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and Runes
By following these steps and techniques, you can effectively paint leather strips and runes on your Nagash (or any other model, really!) adding depth, texture, and character.
Paints
Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Temple Guard Blue, Barroth Blue.
Step and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and Runes
Base Coat: Ensure that the leather strips on the Nagash helmet are properly primed with black primer. Once primed, apply a base coat of Games Workshop Mournfang Brown to the leather strips. This will serve as the foundation for the leather texture.
Highlighting with Mournfang Brown: Using Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, begin highlighting the curves and raised areas of the leather strips. Apply the paint in a textured manner, focusing on creating depth and dimension to simulate the appearance of weathered leather. Don’t worry about perfect blending; imperfections add to the realism.
Layering with Cadian Fleshtone: Next, switch to Games Workshop Cadian Fleshtone and continue highlighting the leather strips. Apply this paint more sparingly, focusing on the most raised areas and curves to enhance the texture. The tonal contrast between Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone will create depth and visual interest.
Glazing with Rhinox Hide: Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water to create a glaze. Apply the glaze over the highlighted areas to tone down the highlights and add depth to the leather texture. Focus on applying the glaze in the shadowed areas and along the edges of the leather strips for a realistic look.
Painting Runes: Using Games Workshop Temple Guard Blue and Barroth Blue, paint the runes onto the leather strips. Ensure that the runes are clearly visible and neatly painted. Use a fine tip brush and steady hand to create clean lines and shapes. Less is more; avoid overcrowding the leather strips with too many runes to maintain balance.
Touching Up: Review the painted leather strips and runes, making any necessary touch-ups or adjustments. Ensure consistency in highlighting placement and rune design throughout the miniature model.
For all of my Nagash Tutorials in one place, go here
Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead
Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead is the father of necromancy. I created a series of detailed tutorials on how I painted him.
Watch Now
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April 7, 2024Games Workshop sent me the new gnome special character, Rodney Roachbait, for the gnome Blood Bowl team. I haven’t quite managed to finish him yet, but close enough. The rope is only base coloured, the handle isn’t done and his orange waders need finishing on the back, among other bits and pieces.
A Gnome Star Player in Blood Bowl, Rodney Roachbaitis a notorious line-man of the Altdorf Park Anglers.
He’s an absolutely tiny model, but so full of character, I couldn’t resist painting him. It was also a nice change of pace from all the mean and moody things I’ve been painting.
Follow along with my tutorials on how I painted him! There are many textures to explore that you can recreate on a variety on your models:
How to Paint Rodney Roachbait
A small series on how to paint Rodney Roachbait, the new Blood Bowl star player for their Gnome team! In these videos we will explore lots of different textures and techniques a lot different to my usual moody and dark style.
Watch Now
Who is Rodney Roachbait?
Unveiled at the Warhammer World Anniversary Preview, Rodney emerged from the shadows as a seasoned Star Player, bringing with him a legacy of both notoriety and skill from his days as a line-man for the Altdorf Park Anglers.
In Blood Bowl, Rodney stands apart as a gnome of unconventional tactics, but with a determination often very present in gnomes! While most gnomes revel in the chaos of the gridiron, Rodney was keen to prove that the boisterous sport of Blood Bowl pales in comparison to the finesse required in the art of fishing.
Initially met with defeat, Rodney refused to be deterred. Armed with his trusty fishing rod, he ventured onto the field against the Merry Mootmen Halfling team, weaving his angling expertise into the game and securing a victory for his gnome brethren. His triumph became the stuff of legend, a tale he relishes recounting whenever given the chance (certainly not a “one that got away” story, ha ha). (Sorry)
For teams fortunate enough to enlist Rodney Roachbait, his tactical acumen and fisherman’s flair make him a great team member. With his Catch of the Day ability, Rodney can seize control of an unattended ball once per half, leaving opponents in disarray. Combining his Stunty and Sidestep skills, Rodney evades tackles with ease, and his resilience is further bolstered by Jump Up, ensuring he swiftly bounces back from any knockdowns.
At a mere 70,000 GP, Rodney is a bargain for Halfling Thimble Cup teams seeking an edge on the field. Available as an expert kit crafted from Forge World resin, Rodney Roachbait promises to elevate any team lucky enough to harness his unparalleled prowess!
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If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.
If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray