Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade

How to Paint Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade

Lady Annika’s thirst for blood is legendary, even amongst the Soulblight vampires! I really enjoyed painting her and made a few tweaks to the model.

Here is a series of videos I created for how to paint Lady Annika, scroll down to explore them in order, or use the contents below to quickly jump to to a part of Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade!

Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Face and Hair

This is the first video in a series of how to paint Lady Annika.
This video looks at painting the face and hair to display level.

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Materials Needed for her Face and Hair

  • Games Workshop Paints: Kislev Flesh, Dark Reaper, Ushabti Bone, Flayed One Flesh, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow
  • Vallejo Paints: Black, Basalt Grey, Dark Sea Grey
  • P3 Paint: Morrow White
  • Fine detail brushes
  • Wet palette
  • Water (for thinning paints)

Preparation

  1. Prime and Prepare: Prime the whole model and build it, leaving the head separate for easier painting. This approach allows better access to the head, especially around areas obstructed by accessories like masks.

Painting the Skin

  1. Base Coat with Kislev Flesh: Thin Kislev Flesh with water at a ratio of approximately 2:1 (water:paint). Apply the thinned paint to the head, aiming for a very translucent effect. This will take around 3-4 layers to achieve a good, but not opaque, coverage.
  2. Shading: Mix Kislev Flesh with Dark Reaper to create various shades for skin shadows. Start with a small amount of Dark Reaper to slightly darken the Kislev Flesh and incrementally increase the amount of Dark Reaper for deeper shadows. Apply these mixes carefully to areas like under the eyes, around the nose, and under the chin to simulate natural shadows.
  3. Adding Depth with Ushabti Bone and Flayed One Flesh: Introduce Ushabti Bone and Flayed One Flesh for highlights and to add depth to the skin. These should also be thinned and applied sparingly to areas that would naturally catch the light.
  4. Refining Details: Use pure Dark Reaper to define the eyes and deeper shadows. Then, carefully increase the intensity of highlights and shadows by adding more layers, paying close attention to the light source (coming from the left in this case) to ensure a realistic appearance.

Painting the Hair

  1. Base with Moot Green: Apply Moot Green as the base colour for the hair. If necessary, mix Moot Green with a little black to adjust the shade. Ensure to cover all strands, aiming for a uniform base layer.
  2. Add Highlights and Shadows: Create a gradient effect by mixing Moot Green with white for highlights and pure black for deeper shadows. Apply these mixes strategically to mimic natural hair highlights and to give the impression of volume and movement.
  3. Detailing with Fine Strands: Use a fine brush to add delicate strands of hair in lighter green shades towards the tips and darker shades near the roots to simulate depth and texture.
  4. Roots Detailing: For an added touch of realism, use Basalt Grey and Dark Sea Grey near the roots to suggest regrowth or a transition of colour. This technique adds complexity and depth to the hair.

Finishing Touches

  1. Glazing for Smoothness: Once satisfied with the skin and hair, use glazing techniques to smooth out transitions and blend the colours more seamlessly. This step involves thin layers of paint applied over dry areas to subtly adjust tones and shades.
  2. Eyes and Teeth: Paint the eyes using Yriel Yellow for the whites and Vallejo Black for the pupils. For the teeth, use Ushabti Bone for a natural look, and carefully define each tooth for clarity.
  3. Lips: Paint the lower lip with a mixture of red (e.g., Mephiston Red from Games Workshop) and add highlights with a mix of Shabti Bone and the red base colour to create a natural gradient.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Mask of Horror

This video shows how to paint the mask (and some of the difficulties I had!) for Lady Annika.

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Materials Needed

  • Games Workshop Paints: Cadian Fleshtone, Rhinox Hide, Ushabti Bone, Mephiston Red, Dark Reaper (later changed to Corvus Black)
  • Vallejo Paint: Model Color Air White
  • Fine detail brushes
  • Wet palette
  • Water (for thinning paints)

Base Coat

  1. Prime the Mask: Begin with a black primer to ensure the colours that follow stand out.
  2. Apply Cadian Fleshtone: Cover the mask with Cadian Fleshtone. This will likely take three to four coats due to the poor coverage over the black primer. The aim is to achieve a base that resembles a realistic skin tone, though the mask itself is quite small, making this task more challenging.

Creating the Skin Tones

  1. Mix Shades: Prepare a range of shades on your wet palette by mixing Cadian Fleshtone with varying amounts of white for highlights and Rhinox Hide for shadows. For deeper shadows, use a 50/50 mix of Cadian Fleshtone and Rhinox Hide, and for pure shadow areas, use Rhinox Hide alone.
  2. Block in Highlights and Shadows: Considering the light source is from the top left, start blocking in highlights and shadows to define the mask’s features. This initial stage doesn’t require perfect blending, as the translucent nature of the watered-down paints (approximately two parts water to one part paint) allows for underlying layers to show through, contributing to a more natural look.

Refining Details

  1. Enhance the Highlights: Use the lighter mixes (Cadian Fleshtone with white and Ushabti Bone with white) to highlight areas like the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, and forehead. These areas may need even more watered-down paint to avoid a chalky texture.
  2. Detailing the Eyes and Mouth: With Corvus Black, add definition around the eyes and mouth. Initially, Dark Reaper was used, but Corvus Black provided a more suitable shade for creating a horror effect without being overly saturated.

Adding Horror Elements

  1. Mascara Tears: Using Corvus Black, paint streaks running down from the eyes to simulate mascara tears, ensuring they thin out towards the bottom. This effect should look distressed and slightly uneven to enhance the horror aesthetic.
  2. Red Lips: Paint the lips with Mephiston Red, carefully defining them to stand out against the paler skin tones. The open mouth adds to the mask’s gormless, horrific expression.

Finishing Touches

  1. Softening and Blending: Go back over the mask to soften any harsh lines or transitions, especially around the streaks and shadowed areas, to ensure a coherent and lifelike (yet horrific) appearance.
  2. Detailing and Corrections: If necessary, use the skin tone mixes to correct any mistakes or overly bold lines, particularly around the eyes and eyebrows, to maintain the desired look.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress

These videos show how to paint Lady Annikas dress, from the distinctive vivid reds to the freehand pattern on her skirts. I decided I didn’t like the freehand after all and changed it to something else (that video is a little further down!)

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Materials Needed for Lady Annikas Vampire Red Dress

  • Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet
  • Vallejo Paint: Model Color Black (or any black paint you prefer)
  • Fine detail brushes
  • Wet palette
  • Water for thinning paints

Step by Step Guide to Lady Annikas Vampire Red Dress

Create a Gradient of Reds: On your wet palette, start with pure Mephiston Red. Then create four additional shades by progressively adding Vallejo Model Color Black to Mephiston Red. You should have a range from pure Mephiston Red to a dark, almost brownish red. The exact proportions aren’t crucial, but aim for a gradual transition from light to dark across the five mixes.

Apply a Dark Red Base: Select one of the darker red mixes (close to a 50/50 mix of Mephiston Red and black) and cover the entire dress. This base layer sets a foundation for building up the red tones and ensures that the shadows aren’t too stark or black.

Begin with Mid-tones: Starting with the second or third darkest shade, begin to layer up the colour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch the light. Keep your paints thinned (approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to ensure smooth transitions.

Add Highlights: Gradually work your way up through the shades, ending with pure Mephiston Red for the brightest highlights. Focus these on the highest points of the dress, where light would naturally hit the most. This includes the tops of folds and the hip area.

Smooth Out Transitions: Unlike non-metallic metal (NMM) techniques, which require stark contrasts, velvet demands soft, gradual transitions. Achieve this by applying multiple thin layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next. This method ensures a soft, velvety texture.

Bright Highlights: To add vibrancy, sparingly apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to the very highest points and sharpest creases of the dress. Be cautious with this bright, slightly orange shade, as overuse can detract from the deep red velvet effect. Focus on areas like creases on the arm and the upper parts of the dress.

Detailing: Use the darker red mixes to deepen shadows or adjust transitions where necessary. If you’ve already painted adjacent areas (such as hands or accessories), be extra cautious to avoid splattering these with red.

Modifying Your Brush: For fine detail work, consider customising your brush by trimming it to create a longer, thinner tip. This can provide more control for painting fine details and maintaining thin, even coats.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)

This is the first version of the skirt freehand I did for Lady Annika. Although this attempt was ultimately not to my liking, so I started afresh, the process and techniques described here may be useful for anyone looking to add intricate details to miniature models. This step-by-step guide incorporates a gothic vine pattern.

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Materials and Tools Used

  • Paints: Vallejo German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black, and Dark Sea Grey; Games Workshop Corvus Black, Pelgrave Blue, and Blue Horror.
  • Brushes: Fine detail brushes suitable for precise freehand work.
  • Palette: A wet palette to keep your paints workable.
  • Water: For thinning your paints.

Step by Step on How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)

Basecoat the Dress: Begin with a black primer as a solid foundation for your paints. This tutorial focuses on the inner dress section or skirt of Lady Annika.

Block in Highlights and Shadows: Use a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey to block in the highlights on the dress, focusing on areas that would naturally catch the light. Add shadows with a blend of Neutral Grey and Black to create depth. This foundational work is crucial for the subsequent freehand pattern.

Painting the Freehand Pattern

Sketch the Pattern: Start by roughly sketching the pattern using a light grey, such as Dark Sea Grey. This initial sketch doesn’t have to be perfect; it serves as a guideline for your detailed work later.

Refine the Pattern: Once the basic pattern is laid out, begin refining the lines, making them thinner and more precise. This step requires patience and a steady hand. Use the original sketch as a guide but allow for adjustments as needed to achieve a more intricate design.

Add Details: Incorporate additional elements such as leaves or vines into the pattern to enhance its complexity and appeal. These details should complement the overall design and follow the flow of the fabric.

Adjusting the Pattern

Correcting Mistakes: Use the base colours (German Grey and Neutral Grey mixed with Black) to correct any errors or to sharpen the pattern. This “erasing” technique allows for adjustments and improvements to the pattern’s clarity and coherence.

Glazing for Depth: Apply glazes of Blue Horror and Corvus Black to integrate the pattern with the underlying highlights and shadows. These glazes help the pattern adhere to the fabric’s contours, making it appear more natural.

Evaluate and Adjust: Step back and assess your work. Make any final adjustments to the pattern, highlights, or shadows to ensure a cohesive appearance. The goal is for the pattern to complement the model’s overall aesthetic without overwhelming it.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Boots

How I did her shining leather boots….

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Materials Needed to Paint Lady Annikas Boots:

  • Vallejo Paints: Black, Neutral Grey
  • P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white paint)
  • Wet palette
  • Fine detail brushes (sizes 0 and 00 recommended)
  • Kitchen roll or paper towel
  • Lamp for highlighting guidance

Step by Step Guide to the Boots

Prepare Your Palette: On your wet palette, mix a variety of greys using Black from Vallejo, Neutral Grey from Vallejo, and P3 Morrow White. The goal is to create a spectrum of grey shades. You can adjust the quantities to get lighter or darker shades as needed.

Base Coating: Start with a base coat of Neutral Grey on the boots. You can adjust the shade by mixing in either more black or white to darken or lighten the grey, respectively. This base coat serves as the foundation for building up highlights and shadows.

Highlight Mapping: Using a slightly lighter grey, begin mapping out where the highlights on the boots will be. Don’t worry about being too precise; the goal is to identify where light naturally hits the boots. Use a lamp to observe how light interacts with the surface and mimic this on the model. Remember, we aim for a shiny leather look, so some highlights will be exaggerated.

Adjusting Highlights: If you over-highlight, it’s fine. You’ll refine these highlights later in the process. The key is to create contrast and depth, making the boots appear shiny. Lady Annika’s slender design means space is limited, so choose your highlight areas wisely, focusing on making them visible from the primary viewing angle.

Glazing and Fine Tuning: Once you’re satisfied with the highlight placement, it’s time to blend and smooth out the transitions. This is where the stippling technique comes into play. Dilute your paint with water (around a 50:50 ratio, but adjust as necessary for a finer stipple) and gently apply to the edges of highlights to create a gradual transition.

Glaze over the boots with a thin layer of black to enrich the colour and add depth. This will also help to knock back any over-highlighted areas, ensuring they blend seamlessly into the overall finish.

Reflective Highlights: For added realism, incorporate some reflective highlights. These should be small and placed strategically to mimic how light reflects off a shiny surface. Use the brightest grey or even white for these highlights but apply them sparingly.

Final Adjustments: Review the model under different angles and lighting conditions. You might need to go back and adjust some highlights or shadows to ensure the boots look good from all perspectives. The goal is for the boots to have a high contrast, shiny appearance, indicative of leather.

Finishing Touches: As a final step, use glazing to unify all the elements. A thin glaze of black can help to tie together the highlights and shadows, making the transition between them smoother and more natural. This step also adds a satin finish to the boots, enhancing the leather effect.

Video: How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand Skull

In one of my previous videos I did a pattern on the dress for Lady Annika, but decided I wanted to change it to something a little bit creepier. Here is how I did the freehand skull design that replaced it! It includes tips on folds and how I did the weathering at the bottom of the cloth.

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Materials Needed

  • Primer: Black (if you started with a black primer base).
  • Base Paints: Vallejo Black, German Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey.
  • Highlight Paints: 50/50 mix of Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey.
  • Weathering Paints: Vallejo Heavy Grey (appears green), Games Workshop Rhinox Hide, Cadian Fleshtone, Monfang Brown.
  • Fine Detail Brushes
  • Wet Palette
  • Reference Image: A realistic skull from a science book (or the Internet!) for accuracy.

Step by Step – How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand Skull

Design Sketching: Sketch the skull design lightly on the skirt. Consider the folds and curves of the fabric; your design must follow these contours to look natural. The skull should be positioned considering the fabric’s folds, especially around tricky areas like deep creases or hard lines.

Base Painting: Using Vallejo Black as your darkest shade, begin blocking in the skull and its surroundings. Gradually build up the mid-tones using German Grey and Neutral Grey. For highlights, use a 50/50 mix of Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey. Keep the contrast lower than other elements (like the boots) to ensure the skirt’s design doesn’t overpower the miniature’s other focal points.

Adding Details: Focus on defining the skull’s features, adjusting for the fabric’s folds. Use your mixed greys to paint in the finer details, such as the teeth and eye sockets, considering the underlying fabric’s shape and the skull’s anatomy. For the headdress, spikes, and cobweb details, apply the same grey tones, ensuring they blend seamlessly into the skull.

Final Highlights and Shadows: Revisit the highlights and shadows, emphasizing the skull’s curvature and the fabric’s texture. Use the lighter greys to enhance the design’s three-dimensionality, paying special attention to areas that catch the light or recede into shadow.

Weathering: Start with Rhinox Hide, diluted significantly with water. Apply it to the lower third of the skirt, building up layers until you achieve a subtle, brown tint. Follow with Monfang Brown for a richer tone, focusing more intensely at the very bottom. This creates a gradient effect, simulating dirt accumulation.

Final Touches: Use a mix of the weathering colours to add texture and depth to the weathered area, mimicking the appearance of mud or dust caught in the fabric’s texture. This step enhances the realism of your miniature, grounding it in its environment.

Explore more of my Vampires!

Vampires and Undead
April 17, 2024This is another video looking at Sekhar the vampire, this time focusing on how to paint a skeleton with glowing eyes for the model on her base. This video looks at the skeleton, how to paint his glowing eyes, sword and bones etc. The whole model is covered! Video: How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes Materials needed: Skeleton ModelPriming spray (I’ve used black!) Brushes:I use the Artist Opus range of brushesFine detail brushMedium-sized brushLarge brush (optional, for basecoating larger areas) Wet Palette (for mixing and thinning paints)Varnish (to protect the finished paint job) Paints:All paints mentioned are from Games Workshop’s Citadel range. Yriel Yellow Moot Green Balor Brown Morghast Bone Screaming Skull Mournfang Brown XV-88 Rhinox Hide Other Materials: Rocks or pebblesFoliage (such as static grass or miniature leaves)Sand or texture paste (for ground texture)Super glue (for attaching basing materials)Water (for thinning paints)Paper towels or cloth to ensure your brushes are totally clean! How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes – Step 1: Priming Prime your model with a suitable undercoat. Black is recommended as it provides a good base for both the glowing effects and the shadowed recesses of the skeleton. Step 2: Base Coating Skeleton: Apply a thin base coat of XV-88 over the entire skeleton. Ensure the paint is thinned with water to maintain detail. Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with Kimera White. Given the deep recesses, apply multiple thin layers to build up a solid white base. Patience is key here to avoid a textured look. Step 3: Adding Depth to Eyes Mix Yriel Yellow with Kimera White to create a pale yellow. Carefully fill in the eye sockets, leaving the deepest part still white to simulate glow. Gradually add more Yriel Yellow towards the front of the eye sockets, intensifying the colour as you move forwards. Define the edges of the sockets with Moot Green to enhance the glow effect, blending it slightly into the yellow for a smooth transition. Step 4: Skeletal Detailing General Bone Texture: Lightly dry brush the skeleton with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 to bring out the texture. Enhanced Details: Use Morghast Bone to highlight edges and raised details across the bones. Deepening Shadows: Mix Rhinox Hide with a small amount of black to create shadows in the deeper recesses and under the bones for added depth. Step 5: Sword and Metallic Effects Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey as a base for the sword and any metallic elements. Weathering: Add scratch effects using Troll Slayer Orange mixed with Mournfang Brown to simulate rust and age. Highlights: Use Screaming Skull to pick out edges and features, giving the impression of worn, yet still sharp, metal. Step 6: Final Touches Refining Glows: Go back to the eyes, adding pure Yriel Yellow to the centres and intensifying the green at the edges if necessary. Blending and Smoothing: Use glazes of the base colours to smooth out transitions and unify the appearance, particularly around the eye sockets and on the sword to blend the rust effects. Contrasting Details: For a final layer of detail, use Screaming Skull to highlight teeth, knuckles, and other small bone protrusions, adding a subtle layer of Rhinox Hide for ageing. Step 7: Sealing the Model Once fully satisfied with your painting, seal the model with a matte varnish to protect your work and reduce any unwanted shininess, ensuring the skeletal figure looks as haunting in the display case as it does on the battlefield. Explore more of my Golden Demon entry tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials in addition to my How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes, with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
April 8, 2024My detailed how to paint the Nagash helmet tutorials, with videos plus step by step guide and tips with full paints used. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part OnePaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsSteps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash HelmetVideo – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part TwoPaintsSteps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet (Part Two)Video – How to Paint the Nagash Freehand Swirls/FiligreePaintsTips for the Freehand FiligreeVideo – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and RunesPaintsStep and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and RunesFor all of my Nagash Tutorials in one place, go hereExplore More Nagash Technique Tutorials Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part One In this tutorial, we’ll focus on painting the metallic areas of Nagash, specifically the head. The colours used for this tutorial are a bit different from the standard, and in the video I discuss techniques in more detail to achieve a textured, refined finish. Paints and Materials Used Paints Vallejo: English Uniform (VX-88) Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow) Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green) Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow) Ivory (Screaming Skull) Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Abaddon Black Naggaroth Night (for future use) Brushes Fine detail brush (suitable for intricate work and small highlights) Medium-sized brush (for larger areas and base coating) Wet palette (to keep paints fresh and workable) Other Materials Wet palette Green stuff (for sculpting additional details, if desired) Painting lamp (for consistent lighting during the painting process) Miniature holder (for ease of handling and painting) Steps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Prepare the Model: Ensure your miniature is assembled and primed appropriately for painting. I’ve used a black primer for my Nagash. Block in the Base Colour: Start by blocking in the main highlights using Vallejo’s English Uniform (VX-88). Apply this colour where you want the primary light source to hit, focusing on a top-left orientation.Be mindful not to make the colour too opaque; a slight texture is desirable for the metallic effect. Understanding Colour Choices: The choice of metallic colours doesn’t have to be conventional. For this model, I went for a dark and moody theme inspired by the artwork of Nagash.My chosen metallic shades include Golden Olive, Yellow Green, and Ice Yellow from Vallejo, along with Rhinox Hide and Abaddon Black from Games Workshop. Building Layers of Colour: Use Golden Olive to build layers on top of the English Uniform, focusing on areas that require additional depth and shading.The opacity of Vallejo paints allows for strong, defined marks, ideal for creating small details and textures. Creating Texture and Depth: With each layer, gradually introduce lighter shades such as Yellow Green and Ice Yellow to enhance highlights and add dimension to the metallic surfaces.Keep in mind the direction of light and focus on maintaining a balance between light and shadow. Understanding Volume and Light: Highlighting metallic surfaces requires understanding how light interacts with volume. Unlike standard blending techniques, aim for distinct contrasts between light and shadow. Make sure you consider how light reflects off different surfaces, creating highlights and shadows of varying intensities. I like to use lots of real-life references of metal to study as I paint. Achieving a Moody Atmosphere: For an undead character like Nagash, aim for a dark, desaturated overall appearance. Use strong, small highlights strategically to draw attention to focal points. Avoid smooth blending; purposefully textured painting adds depth and character to the model. Experimenting with Glazing TechniquesExperiment with glazing techniques to blend colours seamlessly and soften transitions between different areas of the model.Glazing allows for subtle colour adjustments and can help unify the overall color scheme, creating a harmonious visual effect. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part Two In this part, we’ll focus on painting the skull face, hair, and bone structures atop the hat. Paints Vallejo Model Colour: English Uniform (VX-88), Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow), Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green), Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow), Ivory (Screaming Skull), Neutral Grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey), Pale Grey Blue (Grey Seer mixed with Blue Horror) Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Warpstone Green Contrast, Deathclaw Brown P3: Morrow White Steps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet (Part Two) Paint the Bone Structures: Using Vallejo’s English Uniform (VX-88), begin by painting the bone structures on top of the hat. Focus on picking out the highlights, keeping in mind the top-left orientation of the light source. Apply the paint carefully to emphasize the edges and contours of the bones.Enhance the Bone Texture: Utilise Golden Olive (a mix of Elysian Green and Yriel Yellow) to add depth and shading to the bone structures. Concentrate on areas that require additional definition, such as the joints and sockets. Remember to maintain a balance between light and shadow to create a realistic, textured effect.Add Highlights: With Yellow Green (a mix of Dorn Yellow and Moot Green), further highlight the bone structures, focusing on the areas where light would naturally hit. Pay attention to the left-hand side of the model to create a stronger contrast and emphasise the lighting direction.Refine the Highlights: Using Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow), continue to build up the highlights on the bone structures, especially on the left-hand side. Gradually increase the brightness of the highlights towards the center of the model to draw attention to focal points.Adjusting with Rhinox Hide: If necessary, use Rhinox Hide to refine any areas where you’ve made mistakes or to add depth to the shadows. The translucency of this paint allows for easy blending and adjustment while maintaining a natural look.Painting the Skull Face: For the skull face, start with Deathclaw Brown, focusing on creating a weathered, textured appearance. Apply the paint in a rough, uneven manner to mimic the natural wear and tear of ancient bones.Highlighting the Skull: Gradually add highlights to the skull using Morghast Bone. Concentrate the highlights towards the left-hand side of the face to maintain consistency with the overall lighting scheme. Ensure the highlights stand out against the darker base colour to create depth and dimension.Adding Detail to the Eyes: Use a small amount of Morghast Bone to pick out the details around the eyes, emphasising the cheekbones and brow ridge. Be mindful of the sculpted eye sockets and adjust the highlights accordingly to enhance the overall appearance.Painting the Hair: Begin painting the hair with Neutral Grey, focusing on the large, clumpy strands. Keep the highlights towards the top side of the hair to simulate light hitting the surface. Apply the paint in a rough, textured manner to achieve a realistic look.Adding Texture to the Hair: Continue to build up the texture of the hair using Pale Grey Blue. Emphasize the highlights on the top side of the hair while leaving the underside darker to create depth and volume.Refining the Highlights: Using Morrow White sparingly, refine the highlights on the hair strands to add contrast and dimension. Focus on the areas closest to the face to draw attention to the focal points. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Freehand Swirls/Filigree Paints Vallejo: English Uniform (VX-88), Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow), Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green), Ivory (Screaming Skull), Neutral Grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey), Pale Grey Blue (Grey Seer mixed with Blue Horror)Games Workshop: Warpstone Green Contrast, Abaddon BlackP3: Morrow White Tips for the Freehand Filigree Base Coat: Apply a base coat of Vallejo English Uniform (VX-88) to start the filigree on the Nagash hat. Ensure even coverage and allow it to dry completely. Highlighting with Yellow-Green: Mix Vallejo Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green) with a small amount of white to increase opacity. Use a fine tip brush to apply highlights to what would be the raised areas of the filigree. Focus on creating sharp lines and highlights to enhance the detail. Adding Ivory Highlight Dots: Using Vallejo Ivory (Screaming Skull), create small highlight dots on the filigree. These dots should be strategically placed on curves and extreme curve points to simulate shine and reflectivity. Ensure consistency in placement for a cohesive look. Enhancing Contrast with Black: With Games Workshop Abaddon Black, carefully outline the filigree details to enhance contrast and definition. Use a fine tip brush and steady hand to create clean lines and borders. Glazing with Warpstone Green Contrast: Thin Games Workshop Warpstone Green Contrast with water (about two parts water to one part paint) to create a glaze. Apply the glaze over the filigree to enhance shading and highlights. Final Touches: Use P3 Morrow White to add final highlights to the filigree, focusing on the most raised and reflective areas. Ensure consistency and restraint with the white highlights to avoid overpowering the overall effect. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and Runes By following these steps and techniques, you can effectively paint leather strips and runes on your Nagash (or any other model, really!) adding depth, texture, and character. Paints Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Temple Guard Blue, Barroth Blue. Step and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and Runes Base Coat: Ensure that the leather strips on the Nagash helmet are properly primed with black primer. Once primed, apply a base coat of Games Workshop Mournfang Brown to the leather strips. This will serve as the foundation for the leather texture. Highlighting with Mournfang Brown: Using Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, begin highlighting the curves and raised areas of the leather strips. Apply the paint in a textured manner, focusing on creating depth and dimension to simulate the appearance of weathered leather. Don’t worry about perfect blending; imperfections add to the realism. Layering with Cadian Fleshtone: Next, switch to Games Workshop Cadian Fleshtone and continue highlighting the leather strips. Apply this paint more sparingly, focusing on the most raised areas and curves to enhance the texture. The tonal contrast between Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone will create depth and visual interest. Glazing with Rhinox Hide: Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water to create a glaze. Apply the glaze over the highlighted areas to tone down the highlights and add depth to the leather texture. Focus on applying the glaze in the shadowed areas and along the edges of the leather strips for a realistic look. Painting Runes: Using Games Workshop Temple Guard Blue and Barroth Blue, paint the runes onto the leather strips. Ensure that the runes are clearly visible and neatly painted. Use a fine tip brush and steady hand to create clean lines and shapes. Less is more; avoid overcrowding the leather strips with too many runes to maintain balance. Touching Up: Review the painted leather strips and runes, making any necessary touch-ups or adjustments. Ensure consistency in highlighting placement and rune design throughout the miniature model. For all of my Nagash Tutorials in one place, go here Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead is the father of necromancy.  I created a series of detailed tutorials on how I painted him. Watch Now Explore More Nagash Technique Tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
March 13, 2024Creating a Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) texture on a sword for a miniature model requires patience, precision, and a good understanding of light and shadow. This guide is designed to walk you through the process of painting the weapon blade of Sekhar The Vampire, focusing on achieving a weathered, high-contrast, NMM effect. Video: Non Metallic Metal Texture Sword Materials Required Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow; Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide; P3 Morrow White; Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow. Brushes: Fine detail brushes capable of making very thin lines. Palette: A wet palette to ensure your paints remain workable. Water or Thinner: For diluting your paints to the desired consistency. Step-by-Step Guide to the Non Metallic Metal Texture Sword Preparing the Blade: Begin with a clean, primed miniature. Ensure Sekhar’s blade is smooth and free from any debris or fingerprints. Base Coating: Apply a base coat of Neutral Grey on the blade. This serves as your midpoint for building up highlights and deepening shadows. Establishing Light Points: Identify the main light points on the blade using a lamp. Typically, the flat back section of the blade and the curved edges will catch the most light. Mark these areas mentally as points where the highest highlights will be placed. Initial Highlights and Shadows: Create a gradient on your palette ranging from Neutral Grey to Ice Yellow, progressively adding Ice Yellow to lighten the mixture. Include a separate mix with Mournfang Brown and Neutral Grey for warmer tones, and pure white for the brightest highlights. Begin adding these mixtures to the blade, focusing on the predetermined light points. Use a scratchy, controlled technique with the very tip of your brush for texture. Refining the Texture: As the paint on your palette dries slightly, it will naturally become thicker. Use this to your advantage to add textured highlights and shadows, adjusting the water content as necessary for softer transitions or more pronounced scratches. Correcting and Sharpening Details: Utilise black to correct any oversteps or to sharpen the divisions between different sections of the blade. This step is crucial for defining the shape and enhancing the contrast of your NMM effect. Adding Depth with Glazes: Mix highly diluted glazes of Mournfang Brown (and variations with Neutral Grey) to apply to the lower sections of the blade. This creates a sense of depth and simulates a subtle reflection from the environment. Final Highlights: Use the brightest mixtures, including pure white, to add the final highlights to the top light points. This step might require going back to reinforce the contrast between the brightest highlights and the adjacent shadows. Weathering Effects: To add a weathered look, incorporate fine scratches across the blade’s surface with a very thin brush and lighter paint mixes. These should traverse both the light and dark areas to create a unified texture across the blade. Bounce Light: For a more advanced NMM effect, paint a bounce light on the cutting edge of the blade. This is a subtle highlight that simulates light reflecting off the ground, adding to the realism of your metal effect. Finishing Touches: Reassess the overall effect from multiple angles, ensuring that the blade looks good from all perspectives. Additional Tips Patience is Key: Achieving a convincing NMM effect is time-consuming. Work slowly and carefully. Lighting: Understanding how light interacts with metal is crucial for NMM. Study real-life examples if possible. More Soulblight, Undead and Vampire Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
February 27, 2024How to paint the skin, face, and eyes of Sekhar the Blood Queen, highlighting common pitfalls when painting tiny faces like hers, and how to rectify them. We’ll use a specific set of paints from Games Workshop, Vallejo, and P3 to achieve our desired effects. Video Part Three: Sekhar the Blood Queen Face with Eyes, and Skin Paints Needed Games Workshop: Bugman’s Glow, Sotek Green, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Morghast Bone Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Black P3: Morrow White (or any white paint) Step-by-Step Guide to Sekhar the Blood Queen Face, Eyes and Skin Preparing the Base Mixture for Skin: Mix a 50/50 blend of Sotek Green and Bugman’s Glow to create the base skin tone. This unique combination provides a natural, yet distinctly fantastical, skin colour for our vampire queen. Adding Highlights to the Skin: Gradually incorporate Ice Yellow into the base mixture for highlights. Start with small quantities and increase the Ice Yellow for each successive highlight layer. This technique helps achieve a smooth gradient in the skin tone, offering a more lifelike appearance. Advanced Skin Highlights: For a creamy and realistic skin tone, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow, carefully adjusting the blend to prevent the colours from becoming overly vibrant. Add a tiny amount of white to this mixture for the lightest highlights, aiming for an off-white shade that retains a hint of the base tones. Painting Contrast and Metallic Elements: Apply a grey base to the collar, preparing it for a metallic silver finish. This step is crucial for setting up the contrast between the metallic textures and the skin, ensuring that both elements stand out without competing for attention. Achieving Skin Texture and Smooth Transitions: Use thin layers for the skin, starting with a mix of approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint, and adjust as necessary for smoother finishes. Ensure each layer is completely dry before applying the next to avoid any unwanted textures. Highlighting Techniques: Focus on painting towards the highlights, lifting the brush at the brightest points for precise application. This method ensures that the highlights are sharp and well-defined, enhancing the model’s dimensional details. Painting Facial Features: Pay particular attention to the face, adjusting features like the nose with shading and highlighting to ensure it fits naturally under any headgear. Avoid relying solely on box art for colour references, as this can mislead your perception of how facial features should be represented. Painting the Eyes: Start with a solid base colour for the eyes, using black or a deep brown. Paint the iris in a striking colour, adding a small dot of white to each eye to simulate light reflection. This detail adds life and intensity to the figure’s gaze. Enhancing the Lips: Choose a vibrant red for the lips, applying it carefully to add depth and dimension. This colour choice should complement the vampire theme, adding an element of allure and danger to the figure. Overall Facial Harmony: Revisit the entire face to ensure all elements work together harmoniously. Adjust shadows, highlights, and colour intensity to achieve a balanced and realistic facial expression that suits the character’s persona. More Soulblight, Undead and Vampire Tutorials! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
February 6, 2024I was lucky enough to be sent Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia by Games Workshop as an early review copy and couldn’t wait to paint her up for you. I’ve gone for an aged bronze look for her. Read on for my tutorials so far on how to paint her, with paints and step-by-step guide. Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia, stands as a formidable agent of Neferata, wielding hypnotic powers to enthrall her foes. Accompanied by the serpent Ouboroth (although not in my version, sorry!) and leading packs of Dire Wolves and Fell Bats into battle, she embodies the deadly elegance of Nulahmia’s dark majesty. This set introduces Sekhar, her loyal Dire Wolves, and swooping Fell Bats, ready to bring terror to the Soulblight Gravelord armies! First Video Tutorial: Sekhar, Fang of NulahmiaMaterials NeededPreparationPainting the ArmourAdditional TipsVideo Part Two: Red Satin Cloak and Bronze HelmetPaintsPainting the Bronze HelmetPainting the Satin Red CloakVideo Part Three: Sekhar Fang of Nulahmia Face with Eyes, and SkinPaints NeededStep-by-Step Guide to her Face, Eyes and SkinVideo Part Four: Non Metallic Metal Texture SwordMaterials RequiredStep-by-Step Guide to the Non Metallic Metal Texture SwordAdditional TipsVideo Part Five: How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing EyesMaterials needed:More Soulblight, Undead and Vampire Tutorials! First Video Tutorial: Sekhar, Fang of Nulahmia Welcome to this step-by-step painting guide for Sekhar, a new vampire model from the Soulblight Gravelords range by Games Workshop. In this tutorial, we will focus on achieving a bronzed armour effect using a non-metallic metal (NMM) technique and subtly applying verdigris for an aged look. Materials Needed Primer: Black Base Paints: Mournfang Brown, Mephiston Red (for the cloak) Main Paints: Mournfang Brown, Sybarite Green, Rhinox Hide, Dark Sun Yellow (or Balor Brown with a bit of yellow), Morrow White Tools: Airbrush (optional), brushes (sizes 1 or 2 and a finer 00 for details), wet palette, super glue, and plastic glue. Preparation Prime the Model: Begin with a black primer. If desired, airbrush the cloak with Mephiston Red. Allow the primer to fully cure to avoid rubbing off the paint. Assembly: Attach all parts with plastic glue, except for the head, which you should temporarily attach with a tiny bit of super glue for easy removal and precise painting. Painting the Armour Base Layer: Apply a solid base layer of Mournfang Brown over the armour. The coverage doesn’t need to be perfect due to the textured look we’re aiming for. Highlight Preparation: Mix your highlights on a wet palette. Start with Mournfang Brown and progressively mix in Dark Sun Yellow and Morrow White to create a gradient of shades from dark brown to light yellow, finishing with white for the brightest highlights. Applying Highlights: Start with a mid-tone mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow, then progressively lighten the highlights by adding more Dark Sun Yellow and eventually white. Map out the highlights, focusing on the armour’s raised areas and edges. Texture Effect: Use a scratchy technique to add texture to the highlights, simulating wear and tear. Combine this with stippling for denser highlights. Ensure the texture is consistent across the armour to maintain a cohesive look. Verdigris Effect: Thin down Sybarite Green with water (approximately 70:30 water to paint ratio) for a heavy glaze. Apply this to mid-tones and shadows, avoiding the highest highlights to maintain the metallic sheen. For a more subtle verdigris, mix a small amount of Rhinox Hide into Sybarite Green. Avoid using the mix of Sybarite Green and white, as this may look too bright and unnatural. Additional Tips Brush Selection: Use larger brushes for broad highlights and switch to a finer brush (like a 00) for detailed texture work and smaller areas. Glazing: Use glazes to smooth transitions or adjust the intensity of colours. This is especially useful for blending the verdigris into the surrounding areas. Reflections and Details: For areas like the silver collar necklace, consider how it will reflect its surroundings. This includes colours from the helmet, the sky, and possibly the red cloak. Use lighter, desaturated colours to simulate reflection. Evaluating Your Work: Frequently step back and review your progress. Adjust highlights, shadows, and textures as needed to ensure a balanced and cohesive look. Video Part Two: Red Satin Cloak and Bronze Helmet Paints Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop) Sybarite Green (Games Workshop) Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop) Mephiston Red (Games Workshop) Morrow White (P3; any white will do) Dark Sun Yellow (Two Thin Coats; Balor Brown can be substituted with added yellow) White (Kimera Colours; any white optional) Painting the Bronze Helmet Base Layer: Start with a base layer of Mournfang Brown on the helmet. Ensure even coverage for a solid foundation. Mixing for Bronze: Prepare a mix of Mournfang Brown and a small amount of Dark Sun Yellow (or Balor Brown with added yellow) to create the bronze shade. This mix should be applied in two thin coats to ensure smooth coverage without obscuring details. Highlighting: Gradually add white to the bronze mix to create highlights. Focus these lighter shades on areas where light would naturally hit the helmet, enhancing the non-metallic metal effect. For very high highlights, use a mix predominantly of white with a touch of the bronze mixture. Verdigris Effect: Mix Sybarite Green and Rhinox Hide to create the verdigris shade. Apply this sparingly in recesses and areas where weathering would naturally accumulate. This step is optional and can be adjusted based on personal preference for the weathered look. Texture and Final Highlights: For added texture and to simulate wear, apply very fine dots and scratches using the lighter bronze mix. These should be concentrated around edges and high points where wear would be most apparent. Painting the Satin Red Cloak Base Layer: Apply a base coat of Mephiston Red over the cloak. Ensure smooth, even coverage as this will be the foundation for subsequent layers. Shadows: Create a shadow mix by combining Mephiston Red with Rhinox Hide. Apply this mixture in areas that would naturally be in shadow, such as under folds or lower parts of the cloak. Highlighting: Begin highlighting by adding white to Mephiston Red for a brighter red mix. Apply this to areas where light would naturally strike the cloak, such as the top of folds and raised areas. Gradually increase the amount of white in the mix for higher highlights, but avoid going up to pure white to maintain a satin finish. Glazing for Smoothness: Use glazes (thin, transparent layers) of your red mixes to smooth out transitions between shadows, mid-tones, and highlights. This step is crucial for achieving the smooth, satin look of the cloak. Final Adjustments: Revisit both the helmet and cloak for any final adjustments. Add more highlights or shadows as needed to enhance contrast and detail. Pay special attention to maintaining the balance between detailed texture on the helmet and the smooth finish of the cloak. Video Part Three: Sekhar Fang of Nulahmia Face with Eyes, and Skin Paints Needed Games Workshop: Bugman’s Glow, Sotek Green, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Morghast Bone Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Black P3: Morrow White (or any white paint) Step-by-Step Guide to her Face, Eyes and Skin Preparing the Base Mixture for Skin: Mix a 50/50 blend of Sotek Green and Bugman’s Glow to create the base skin tone. This unique combination provides a natural, yet distinctly fantastical, skin colour for our vampire queen. Adding Highlights to the Skin: Gradually incorporate Ice Yellow into the base mixture for highlights. Start with small quantities and increase the Ice Yellow for each successive highlight layer. This technique helps achieve a smooth gradient in the skin tone, offering a more lifelike appearance. Advanced Skin Highlights: For a creamy and realistic skin tone, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow, carefully adjusting the blend to prevent the colours from becoming overly vibrant. Add a tiny amount of white to this mixture for the lightest highlights, aiming for an off-white shade that retains a hint of the base tones. Painting Contrast and Metallic Elements: Apply a grey base to the collar, preparing it for a metallic silver finish. This step is crucial for setting up the contrast between the metallic textures and the skin, ensuring that both elements stand out without competing for attention. Achieving Skin Texture and Smooth Transitions: Use thin layers for the skin, starting with a mix of approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint, and adjust as necessary for smoother finishes. Ensure each layer is completely dry before applying the next to avoid any unwanted textures. Highlighting Techniques: Focus on painting towards the highlights, lifting the brush at the brightest points for precise application. This method ensures that the highlights are sharp and well-defined, enhancing the model’s dimensional details. Painting Facial Features: Pay particular attention to the face, adjusting features like the nose with shading and highlighting to ensure it fits naturally under any headgear. Avoid relying solely on box art for colour references, as this can mislead your perception of how facial features should be represented. Painting the Eyes: Start with a solid base colour for the eyes, using black or a deep brown. Paint the iris in a striking colour, adding a small dot of white to each eye to simulate light reflection. This detail adds life and intensity to the figure’s gaze. Enhancing the Lips: Choose a vibrant red for the lips, applying it carefully to add depth and dimension. This colour choice should complement the vampire theme, adding an element of allure and danger to the figure. Overall Facial Harmony: Revisit the entire face to ensure all elements work together harmoniously. Adjust shadows, highlights, and colour intensity to achieve a balanced and realistic facial expression that suits the character’s persona. Video Part Four: Non Metallic Metal Texture Sword Creating a Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) texture on a sword for a miniature model requires patience, precision, and a good understanding of light and shadow. This guide is designed to walk you through the process of painting the weapon blade of Sekhar The Vampire, focusing on achieving a weathered, high-contrast, NMM effect. Materials Required Paints: Vallejo Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow; Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide; P3 Morrow White; Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow. Brushes: Fine detail brushes capable of making very thin lines. Palette: A wet palette to ensure your paints remain workable. Water or Thinner: For diluting your paints to the desired consistency. Step-by-Step Guide to the Non Metallic Metal Texture Sword Preparing the Blade: Begin with a clean, primed miniature. Ensure Sekhar’s blade is smooth and free from any debris or fingerprints. Base Coating: Apply a base coat of Neutral Grey on the blade. This serves as your midpoint for building up highlights and deepening shadows. Establishing Light Points: Identify the main light points on the blade using a lamp. Typically, the flat back section of the blade and the curved edges will catch the most light. Mark these areas mentally as points where the highest highlights will be placed. Initial Highlights and Shadows: Create a gradient on your palette ranging from Neutral Grey to Ice Yellow, progressively adding Ice Yellow to lighten the mixture. Include a separate mix with Mournfang Brown and Neutral Grey for warmer tones, and pure white for the brightest highlights. Begin adding these mixtures to the blade, focusing on the predetermined light points. Use a scratchy, controlled technique with the very tip of your brush for texture. Refining the Texture: As the paint on your palette dries slightly, it will naturally become thicker. Use this to your advantage to add textured highlights and shadows, adjusting the water content as necessary for softer transitions or more pronounced scratches. Correcting and Sharpening Details: Utilise black to correct any oversteps or to sharpen the divisions between different sections of the blade. This step is crucial for defining the shape and enhancing the contrast of your NMM effect. Adding Depth with Glazes: Mix highly diluted glazes of Mournfang Brown (and variations with Neutral Grey) to apply to the lower sections of the blade. This creates a sense of depth and simulates a subtle reflection from the environment. Final Highlights: Use the brightest mixtures, including pure white, to add the final highlights to the top light points. This step might require going back to reinforce the contrast between the brightest highlights and the adjacent shadows. Weathering Effects: To add a weathered look, incorporate fine scratches across the blade’s surface with a very thin brush and lighter paint mixes. These should traverse both the light and dark areas to create a unified texture across the blade. Bounce Light: For a more advanced NMM effect, paint a bounce light on the cutting edge of the blade. This is a subtle highlight that simulates light reflecting off the ground, adding to the realism of your metal effect. Finishing Touches: Reassess the overall effect from multiple angles, ensuring that the blade looks good from all perspectives. Additional Tips Patience is Key: Achieving a convincing NMM effect is time-consuming. Work slowly and carefully. Lighting: Understanding how light interacts with metal is crucial for NMM. Study real-life examples if possible. Video Part Five: How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes This is another video looking at Sekhar the vampire, this time focusing on how to paint a skeleton with glowing eyes for the model on her base. This video looks at the skeleton, how to paint his glowing eyes, sword and bones etc. The whole model is covered! Materials needed: Skeleton ModelPriming spray (I’ve used black!) Brushes:I use the Artis Opus range of brushesFine detail brushMedium-sized brushLarge brush (optional, for basecoating larger areas) Wet Palette (for mixing and thinning paints)Varnish (to protect the finished paint job) Paints:All paints mentioned are from Games Workshop’s Citadel range. Yriel Yellow Moot Green Balor Brown Morghast Bone Screaming Skull Mournfang Brown XV-88 Rhinox Hide Other Materials: Rocks or pebblesFoliage (such as static grass or miniature leaves)Sand or texture paste (for ground texture)Super glue (for attaching basing materials)Water (for thinning paints)Paper towels or cloth to ensure your brushes are totally clean! More Soulblight, Undead and Vampire Tutorials! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.

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