Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade

How to Paint Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade

Lady Annika’s thirst for blood is legendary, even amongst the Soulblight vampires! I really enjoyed painting her and made a few tweaks to the model.

Here is a series of videos I created for how to paint Lady Annika, scroll down to explore them in order, or use the contents below to quickly jump to to a part of Lady Annika, The Thirsting Blade!

Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Face and Hair

This is the first video in a series of how to paint Lady Annika.
This video looks at painting the face and hair to display level.

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Materials Needed for her Face and Hair

  • Games Workshop Paints: Kislev Flesh, Dark Reaper, Ushabti Bone, Flayed One Flesh, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow
  • Vallejo Paints: Black, Basalt Grey, Dark Sea Grey
  • P3 Paint: Morrow White
  • Fine detail brushes
  • Wet palette
  • Water (for thinning paints)

Preparation

  1. Prime and Prepare: Prime the whole model and build it, leaving the head separate for easier painting. This approach allows better access to the head, especially around areas obstructed by accessories like masks.

Painting the Skin

  1. Base Coat with Kislev Flesh: Thin Kislev Flesh with water at a ratio of approximately 2:1 (water:paint). Apply the thinned paint to the head, aiming for a very translucent effect. This will take around 3-4 layers to achieve a good, but not opaque, coverage.
  2. Shading: Mix Kislev Flesh with Dark Reaper to create various shades for skin shadows. Start with a small amount of Dark Reaper to slightly darken the Kislev Flesh and incrementally increase the amount of Dark Reaper for deeper shadows. Apply these mixes carefully to areas like under the eyes, around the nose, and under the chin to simulate natural shadows.
  3. Adding Depth with Ushabti Bone and Flayed One Flesh: Introduce Ushabti Bone and Flayed One Flesh for highlights and to add depth to the skin. These should also be thinned and applied sparingly to areas that would naturally catch the light.
  4. Refining Details: Use pure Dark Reaper to define the eyes and deeper shadows. Then, carefully increase the intensity of highlights and shadows by adding more layers, paying close attention to the light source (coming from the left in this case) to ensure a realistic appearance.

Painting the Hair

  1. Base with Moot Green: Apply Moot Green as the base colour for the hair. If necessary, mix Moot Green with a little black to adjust the shade. Ensure to cover all strands, aiming for a uniform base layer.
  2. Add Highlights and Shadows: Create a gradient effect by mixing Moot Green with white for highlights and pure black for deeper shadows. Apply these mixes strategically to mimic natural hair highlights and to give the impression of volume and movement.
  3. Detailing with Fine Strands: Use a fine brush to add delicate strands of hair in lighter green shades towards the tips and darker shades near the roots to simulate depth and texture.
  4. Roots Detailing: For an added touch of realism, use Basalt Grey and Dark Sea Grey near the roots to suggest regrowth or a transition of colour. This technique adds complexity and depth to the hair.

Finishing Touches

  1. Glazing for Smoothness: Once satisfied with the skin and hair, use glazing techniques to smooth out transitions and blend the colours more seamlessly. This step involves thin layers of paint applied over dry areas to subtly adjust tones and shades.
  2. Eyes and Teeth: Paint the eyes using Yriel Yellow for the whites and Vallejo Black for the pupils. For the teeth, use Ushabti Bone for a natural look, and carefully define each tooth for clarity.
  3. Lips: Paint the lower lip with a mixture of red (e.g., Mephiston Red from Games Workshop) and add highlights with a mix of Shabti Bone and the red base colour to create a natural gradient.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Mask of Horror

This video shows how to paint the mask (and some of the difficulties I had!) for Lady Annika.

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Materials Needed

  • Games Workshop Paints: Cadian Fleshtone, Rhinox Hide, Ushabti Bone, Mephiston Red, Dark Reaper (later changed to Corvus Black)
  • Vallejo Paint: Model Color Air White
  • Fine detail brushes
  • Wet palette
  • Water (for thinning paints)

Base Coat

  1. Prime the Mask: Begin with a black primer to ensure the colours that follow stand out.
  2. Apply Cadian Fleshtone: Cover the mask with Cadian Fleshtone. This will likely take three to four coats due to the poor coverage over the black primer. The aim is to achieve a base that resembles a realistic skin tone, though the mask itself is quite small, making this task more challenging.

Creating the Skin Tones

  1. Mix Shades: Prepare a range of shades on your wet palette by mixing Cadian Fleshtone with varying amounts of white for highlights and Rhinox Hide for shadows. For deeper shadows, use a 50/50 mix of Cadian Fleshtone and Rhinox Hide, and for pure shadow areas, use Rhinox Hide alone.
  2. Block in Highlights and Shadows: Considering the light source is from the top left, start blocking in highlights and shadows to define the mask’s features. This initial stage doesn’t require perfect blending, as the translucent nature of the watered-down paints (approximately two parts water to one part paint) allows for underlying layers to show through, contributing to a more natural look.

Refining Details

  1. Enhance the Highlights: Use the lighter mixes (Cadian Fleshtone with white and Ushabti Bone with white) to highlight areas like the bridge of the nose, cheekbones, and forehead. These areas may need even more watered-down paint to avoid a chalky texture.
  2. Detailing the Eyes and Mouth: With Corvus Black, add definition around the eyes and mouth. Initially, Dark Reaper was used, but Corvus Black provided a more suitable shade for creating a horror effect without being overly saturated.

Adding Horror Elements

  1. Mascara Tears: Using Corvus Black, paint streaks running down from the eyes to simulate mascara tears, ensuring they thin out towards the bottom. This effect should look distressed and slightly uneven to enhance the horror aesthetic.
  2. Red Lips: Paint the lips with Mephiston Red, carefully defining them to stand out against the paler skin tones. The open mouth adds to the mask’s gormless, horrific expression.

Finishing Touches

  1. Softening and Blending: Go back over the mask to soften any harsh lines or transitions, especially around the streaks and shadowed areas, to ensure a coherent and lifelike (yet horrific) appearance.
  2. Detailing and Corrections: If necessary, use the skin tone mixes to correct any mistakes or overly bold lines, particularly around the eyes and eyebrows, to maintain the desired look.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress

These videos show how to paint Lady Annikas dress, from the distinctive vivid reds to the freehand pattern on her skirts. I decided I didn’t like the freehand after all and changed it to something else (that video is a little further down!)

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Materials Needed for Lady Annikas Vampire Red Dress

  • Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet
  • Vallejo Paint: Model Color Black (or any black paint you prefer)
  • Fine detail brushes
  • Wet palette
  • Water for thinning paints

Step by Step Guide to Lady Annikas Vampire Red Dress

Create a Gradient of Reds: On your wet palette, start with pure Mephiston Red. Then create four additional shades by progressively adding Vallejo Model Color Black to Mephiston Red. You should have a range from pure Mephiston Red to a dark, almost brownish red. The exact proportions aren’t crucial, but aim for a gradual transition from light to dark across the five mixes.

Apply a Dark Red Base: Select one of the darker red mixes (close to a 50/50 mix of Mephiston Red and black) and cover the entire dress. This base layer sets a foundation for building up the red tones and ensures that the shadows aren’t too stark or black.

Begin with Mid-tones: Starting with the second or third darkest shade, begin to layer up the colour, focusing on areas that would naturally catch the light. Keep your paints thinned (approximately 1.5 parts water to 1 part paint) to ensure smooth transitions.

Add Highlights: Gradually work your way up through the shades, ending with pure Mephiston Red for the brightest highlights. Focus these on the highest points of the dress, where light would naturally hit the most. This includes the tops of folds and the hip area.

Smooth Out Transitions: Unlike non-metallic metal (NMM) techniques, which require stark contrasts, velvet demands soft, gradual transitions. Achieve this by applying multiple thin layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next. This method ensures a soft, velvety texture.

Bright Highlights: To add vibrancy, sparingly apply Evil Sunz Scarlet to the very highest points and sharpest creases of the dress. Be cautious with this bright, slightly orange shade, as overuse can detract from the deep red velvet effect. Focus on areas like creases on the arm and the upper parts of the dress.

Detailing: Use the darker red mixes to deepen shadows or adjust transitions where necessary. If you’ve already painted adjacent areas (such as hands or accessories), be extra cautious to avoid splattering these with red.

Modifying Your Brush: For fine detail work, consider customising your brush by trimming it to create a longer, thinner tip. This can provide more control for painting fine details and maintaining thin, even coats.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)

This is the first version of the skirt freehand I did for Lady Annika. Although this attempt was ultimately not to my liking, so I started afresh, the process and techniques described here may be useful for anyone looking to add intricate details to miniature models. This step-by-step guide incorporates a gothic vine pattern.

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Materials and Tools Used

  • Paints: Vallejo German Grey, Neutral Grey, Black, and Dark Sea Grey; Games Workshop Corvus Black, Pelgrave Blue, and Blue Horror.
  • Brushes: Fine detail brushes suitable for precise freehand work.
  • Palette: A wet palette to keep your paints workable.
  • Water: For thinning your paints.

Step by Step on How to Paint Lady Annikas Dress Freehand (First Version)

Basecoat the Dress: Begin with a black primer as a solid foundation for your paints. This tutorial focuses on the inner dress section or skirt of Lady Annika.

Block in Highlights and Shadows: Use a mix of German Grey and Neutral Grey to block in the highlights on the dress, focusing on areas that would naturally catch the light. Add shadows with a blend of Neutral Grey and Black to create depth. This foundational work is crucial for the subsequent freehand pattern.

Painting the Freehand Pattern

Sketch the Pattern: Start by roughly sketching the pattern using a light grey, such as Dark Sea Grey. This initial sketch doesn’t have to be perfect; it serves as a guideline for your detailed work later.

Refine the Pattern: Once the basic pattern is laid out, begin refining the lines, making them thinner and more precise. This step requires patience and a steady hand. Use the original sketch as a guide but allow for adjustments as needed to achieve a more intricate design.

Add Details: Incorporate additional elements such as leaves or vines into the pattern to enhance its complexity and appeal. These details should complement the overall design and follow the flow of the fabric.

Adjusting the Pattern

Correcting Mistakes: Use the base colours (German Grey and Neutral Grey mixed with Black) to correct any errors or to sharpen the pattern. This “erasing” technique allows for adjustments and improvements to the pattern’s clarity and coherence.

Glazing for Depth: Apply glazes of Blue Horror and Corvus Black to integrate the pattern with the underlying highlights and shadows. These glazes help the pattern adhere to the fabric’s contours, making it appear more natural.

Evaluate and Adjust: Step back and assess your work. Make any final adjustments to the pattern, highlights, or shadows to ensure a cohesive appearance. The goal is for the pattern to complement the model’s overall aesthetic without overwhelming it.

Video: How to Paint Lady Annika Boots

How I did her shining leather boots….

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Materials Needed to Paint Lady Annikas Boots:

  • Vallejo Paints: Black, Neutral Grey
  • P3 Paint: Morrow White (or any white paint)
  • Wet palette
  • Fine detail brushes (sizes 0 and 00 recommended)
  • Kitchen roll or paper towel
  • Lamp for highlighting guidance

Step by Step Guide to the Boots

Prepare Your Palette: On your wet palette, mix a variety of greys using Black from Vallejo, Neutral Grey from Vallejo, and P3 Morrow White. The goal is to create a spectrum of grey shades. You can adjust the quantities to get lighter or darker shades as needed.

Base Coating: Start with a base coat of Neutral Grey on the boots. You can adjust the shade by mixing in either more black or white to darken or lighten the grey, respectively. This base coat serves as the foundation for building up highlights and shadows.

Highlight Mapping: Using a slightly lighter grey, begin mapping out where the highlights on the boots will be. Don’t worry about being too precise; the goal is to identify where light naturally hits the boots. Use a lamp to observe how light interacts with the surface and mimic this on the model. Remember, we aim for a shiny leather look, so some highlights will be exaggerated.

Adjusting Highlights: If you over-highlight, it’s fine. You’ll refine these highlights later in the process. The key is to create contrast and depth, making the boots appear shiny. Lady Annika’s slender design means space is limited, so choose your highlight areas wisely, focusing on making them visible from the primary viewing angle.

Glazing and Fine Tuning: Once you’re satisfied with the highlight placement, it’s time to blend and smooth out the transitions. This is where the stippling technique comes into play. Dilute your paint with water (around a 50:50 ratio, but adjust as necessary for a finer stipple) and gently apply to the edges of highlights to create a gradual transition.

Glaze over the boots with a thin layer of black to enrich the colour and add depth. This will also help to knock back any over-highlighted areas, ensuring they blend seamlessly into the overall finish.

Reflective Highlights: For added realism, incorporate some reflective highlights. These should be small and placed strategically to mimic how light reflects off a shiny surface. Use the brightest grey or even white for these highlights but apply them sparingly.

Final Adjustments: Review the model under different angles and lighting conditions. You might need to go back and adjust some highlights or shadows to ensure the boots look good from all perspectives. The goal is for the boots to have a high contrast, shiny appearance, indicative of leather.

Finishing Touches: As a final step, use glazing to unify all the elements. A thin glaze of black can help to tie together the highlights and shadows, making the transition between them smoother and more natural. This step also adds a satin finish to the boots, enhancing the leather effect.

Video: How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand Skull

In one of my previous videos I did a pattern on the dress for Lady Annika, but decided I wanted to change it to something a little bit creepier. Here is how I did the freehand skull design that replaced it! It includes tips on folds and how I did the weathering at the bottom of the cloth.

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Materials Needed

  • Primer: Black (if you started with a black primer base).
  • Base Paints: Vallejo Black, German Grey, Neutral Grey, Dark Sea Grey.
  • Highlight Paints: 50/50 mix of Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey.
  • Weathering Paints: Vallejo Heavy Grey (appears green), Games Workshop Rhinox Hide, Cadian Fleshtone, Monfang Brown.
  • Fine Detail Brushes
  • Wet Palette
  • Reference Image: A realistic skull from a science book (or the Internet!) for accuracy.

Step by Step – How To Paint A Much Cooler Freehand Skull

Design Sketching: Sketch the skull design lightly on the skirt. Consider the folds and curves of the fabric; your design must follow these contours to look natural. The skull should be positioned considering the fabric’s folds, especially around tricky areas like deep creases or hard lines.

Base Painting: Using Vallejo Black as your darkest shade, begin blocking in the skull and its surroundings. Gradually build up the mid-tones using German Grey and Neutral Grey. For highlights, use a 50/50 mix of Neutral Grey and Dark Sea Grey. Keep the contrast lower than other elements (like the boots) to ensure the skirt’s design doesn’t overpower the miniature’s other focal points.

Adding Details: Focus on defining the skull’s features, adjusting for the fabric’s folds. Use your mixed greys to paint in the finer details, such as the teeth and eye sockets, considering the underlying fabric’s shape and the skull’s anatomy. For the headdress, spikes, and cobweb details, apply the same grey tones, ensuring they blend seamlessly into the skull.

Final Highlights and Shadows: Revisit the highlights and shadows, emphasizing the skull’s curvature and the fabric’s texture. Use the lighter greys to enhance the design’s three-dimensionality, paying special attention to areas that catch the light or recede into shadow.

Weathering: Start with Rhinox Hide, diluted significantly with water. Apply it to the lower third of the skirt, building up layers until you achieve a subtle, brown tint. Follow with Monfang Brown for a richer tone, focusing more intensely at the very bottom. This creates a gradient effect, simulating dirt accumulation.

Final Touches: Use a mix of the weathering colours to add texture and depth to the weathered area, mimicking the appearance of mud or dust caught in the fabric’s texture. This step enhances the realism of your miniature, grounding it in its environment.

Explore more of my Vampires!

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October 17, 2024In this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf from the new Chaos Dwarf Blood Bowl box, provided by Games Workshop as an early review copy. We’ll be focusing on achieving a high tabletop standard, using a combination of classic paint colours and techniques to bring out the rich, detailed character of the model. Whether you’re painting for your next game or aiming for a display-worthy finish, this step-by-step guide will help you tackle everything from non-metallic metal gold to vibrant red armour, all while keeping the process efficient and enjoyable. Video – How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf Step-by-Step Guide Materials Required: Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Bugman’s Glow, Night Lords Blue, Rhinox Hide Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey Two Thin Coats Paints: Dark Sun YellowWhite Star Brushes: Artis Opus Size 1 Brush, Artis Opus Size 00 Brush Other Tools: Wet Palette, Lamp (for checking light placement), Water Jar How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf Step 1: Priming Start by priming the model using Mephiston Red as the base coat. You can use an airbrush or a hand brush to apply it. This will form the base of the red armour and speed up the process. Step 2: Painting the Beard For the beard, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to base coat it. Highlight the beard using Vallejo Neutral Grey. Apply this in parallel strokes to follow the sculpted lines of the beard. Add some final highlights by mixing Neutral Grey with a bit of White Star and pick out raised areas. Step 3: Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim For the gold trim, begin with XV-88 as the base colour. This provides a solid foundation for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. Create your first highlight mix with Dark Sun Yellow. Layer this on top of the XV-88, leaving some of the base visible. Gradually lighten the gold by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with White Star. Apply smaller, more precise highlights with each layer. To give the gold a bit more warmth, you can glaze over areas with XV-88 or add subtle orange tints using Troll Slayer Orange in the shadowed areas. Step 4: Painting the Red Armour After the Mephiston Red base, layer on Evil Sunz Scarlet. Use a stippling or scratchy technique to give texture to the armour. For shadowing, use Night Lords Blue in the recesses and shaded areas, being careful not to overwhelm the red. If needed, go back with Evil Sunz Scarlet to reinforce the red and add brightness. Step 5: Shading and Highlighting the Face Wash the face with a thinned-down layer of Rhinox Hide (4 parts water, 1 part paint) to shade it and separate it from the rest of the armour. Highlight the face using Bugman’s Glow, focusing on the raised areas like the nose, cheeks, and brow. For brighter highlights, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow (or White Star if you don’t have Ice Yellow) to add subtle highlights to key areas like the cheekbones and nose bridge. Step 6: Painting the Eyes Paint the whites of the eyes using a light grey rather than pure white to keep it natural. Use black to paint the pupil and iris in one go, as these are very small details that don’t require too much fine detail. Step 7: Painting the Teeth and Horns Base the teeth and horns with Morghast Bone. You can use the same colour for both areas to keep consistency. Add highlights using White Star on the tips of the teeth and horns, carefully placing small dots or lines for a shine effect. Step 8: Painting the Leather Areas The gloves and boots can be painted with the same colours as the horns. Start with XV-88 for the base coat, then highlight with Morghast Bone, but don’t take the highlights up to white for these areas. Step 9: Finishing Touches Once the main areas are painted, go back and refine any details that need sharpening, such as the edges of the armour or the highlights on the face. If the red armour starts looking too dark or the highlights become too muted, reapply Evil Sunz Scarlet in fine marks to bring the vibrancy back. Step 10: Final Shading and Glazing For a final touch, glaze over the non-metallic gold areas with a thin mix of XV-88 to enhance the richness of the colour. You can add extra depth to the shadows by applying a thin wash of Night Lords Blue in the deepest recesses of the red armour. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
April 17, 2024This is another video looking at Sekhar the vampire, this time focusing on how to paint a skeleton with glowing eyes for the model on her base. This video looks at the skeleton, how to paint his glowing eyes, sword and bones etc. The whole model is covered! Video: How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes Materials needed: Skeleton ModelPriming spray (I’ve used black!) Brushes:I use the Artist Opus range of brushesFine detail brushMedium-sized brushLarge brush (optional, for basecoating larger areas) Wet Palette (for mixing and thinning paints)Varnish (to protect the finished paint job) Paints:All paints mentioned are from Games Workshop’s Citadel range. Yriel Yellow Moot Green Balor Brown Morghast Bone Screaming Skull Mournfang Brown XV-88 Rhinox Hide Other Materials: Rocks or pebblesFoliage (such as static grass or miniature leaves)Sand or texture paste (for ground texture)Super glue (for attaching basing materials)Water (for thinning paints)Paper towels or cloth to ensure your brushes are totally clean! How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes – Step 1: Priming Prime your model with a suitable undercoat. Black is recommended as it provides a good base for both the glowing effects and the shadowed recesses of the skeleton. Step 2: Base Coating Skeleton: Apply a thin base coat of XV-88 over the entire skeleton. Ensure the paint is thinned with water to maintain detail. Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with Kimera White. Given the deep recesses, apply multiple thin layers to build up a solid white base. Patience is key here to avoid a textured look. Step 3: Adding Depth to Eyes Mix Yriel Yellow with Kimera White to create a pale yellow. Carefully fill in the eye sockets, leaving the deepest part still white to simulate glow. Gradually add more Yriel Yellow towards the front of the eye sockets, intensifying the colour as you move forwards. Define the edges of the sockets with Moot Green to enhance the glow effect, blending it slightly into the yellow for a smooth transition. Step 4: Skeletal Detailing General Bone Texture: Lightly dry brush the skeleton with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 to bring out the texture. Enhanced Details: Use Morghast Bone to highlight edges and raised details across the bones. Deepening Shadows: Mix Rhinox Hide with a small amount of black to create shadows in the deeper recesses and under the bones for added depth. Step 5: Sword and Metallic Effects Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey as a base for the sword and any metallic elements. Weathering: Add scratch effects using Troll Slayer Orange mixed with Mournfang Brown to simulate rust and age. Highlights: Use Screaming Skull to pick out edges and features, giving the impression of worn, yet still sharp, metal. Step 6: Final Touches Refining Glows: Go back to the eyes, adding pure Yriel Yellow to the centres and intensifying the green at the edges if necessary. Blending and Smoothing: Use glazes of the base colours to smooth out transitions and unify the appearance, particularly around the eye sockets and on the sword to blend the rust effects. Contrasting Details: For a final layer of detail, use Screaming Skull to highlight teeth, knuckles, and other small bone protrusions, adding a subtle layer of Rhinox Hide for ageing. Step 7: Sealing the Model Once fully satisfied with your painting, seal the model with a matte varnish to protect your work and reduce any unwanted shininess, ensuring the skeletal figure looks as haunting in the display case as it does on the battlefield. Explore more of my Golden Demon entry tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials in addition to my How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes, with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
April 11, 2024A small series on how to paint Rodney Roachbait, the new Blood Bowl star player for their Gnome team! In these videos we will explore lots of different textures and techniques a lot different to my usual moody and dark style. I hope you enjoy following along as much as I enjoyed painting him. Video Part One: How to paint Rodney Roachbait – Base colours, skin, beard and jumper. Although the model is painted to a high standard the techniques can still be used for tabletop gaming. This first part looks at preparing all of the base colours for the model, the skin, beard and jumper. Materials List Brushes:Fine Detail Brush, Standard Brush, Drybrush – I use the Artis Opus range of brushes. Paints:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Contrast Dark Oath Flesh, Sotek GreenKimera Colours: Fallen GrassWhite (or P3 Morrow White)Sun Ray (or Vallejo Ice Yellow)Vallejo: Neutral GreyOther Materials: PVA Glue, Gloss Varnish, Magnifying Headset Steps and Tips on How to Paint Rodney Roachbait Preparation and Base Colour: I recommend using a headset to enhance visibility on this model as he is very, VERY small. I’ve based coated him black to begin. Base Colour Application: Begin by applying a base colour to the entire model to avoid the prominence of black from the primer. Use Rhinox Hide to block in areas like the hat and the ball. However, upon closer inspection, I realised he wore waders instead of boots, so I switched to Mournfang Brown as the base colour for the waders to avoid excessive brown tones. Paint the strap holding the fish carcass onto the hat using Mournfang Brown. When painting resin models like this one, you may notice slight lines, but these are easily obscured with paint. Addressing Imperfections: However, there are more pressing imperfections on this model – if you have some, like resin air bubbles, fill them with PVA glue and painting over. For the strap over the hat, use Fallen Grass from Chimera Colors. These paints are single-pigment, avoiding separation issues common with other paints. Mixing them with Games Workshop paints adds a satin finish to maintain colour vibrancy while avoiding using varnish, which can interfere with the model’s look. Painting Specific Areas: For specific areas like the jumper, use Sotek Green for a matte finish, while the leather hat has a satin finish achieved by mixing in Games Workshop paints. Paint the fish head and tail using Sotek Green and Balthasar Gold for the bony parts. Adding Depth: After basic block-ins, apply a thinned-down contrast paint, Dark Oath Flesh, over the model to give it a slight filter effect. This helps tie the colours together and softens harsh lines, especially on resin models with sharp details. Take care when using contrast paint, as it may pool in recesses, requiring careful cleanup. Once dry, it adds depth and subtle shading to the model. Correcting Imperfections: Apply gloss varnish to smooth out any unwanted textures, like creases on the cheeks, providing a polished finish. More tutorials for him to follow! In the mean time, why not explore my other videos? If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
April 8, 2024My detailed how to paint the Nagash helmet tutorials, with videos plus step by step guide and tips with full paints used. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part OnePaints and Materials UsedPaintsBrushesOther MaterialsSteps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash HelmetVideo – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part TwoPaintsSteps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet (Part Two)Video – How to Paint the Nagash Freehand Swirls/FiligreePaintsTips for the Freehand FiligreeVideo – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and RunesPaintsStep and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and RunesFor all of my Nagash Tutorials in one place, go hereExplore More Nagash Technique Tutorials Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part One In this tutorial, we’ll focus on painting the metallic areas of Nagash, specifically the head. The colours used for this tutorial are a bit different from the standard, and in the video I discuss techniques in more detail to achieve a textured, refined finish. Paints and Materials Used Paints Vallejo: English Uniform (VX-88) Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow) Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green) Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow) Ivory (Screaming Skull) Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Abaddon Black Naggaroth Night (for future use) Brushes Fine detail brush (suitable for intricate work and small highlights) Medium-sized brush (for larger areas and base coating) Wet palette (to keep paints fresh and workable) Other Materials Wet palette Green stuff (for sculpting additional details, if desired) Painting lamp (for consistent lighting during the painting process) Miniature holder (for ease of handling and painting) Steps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Prepare the Model: Ensure your miniature is assembled and primed appropriately for painting. I’ve used a black primer for my Nagash. Block in the Base Colour: Start by blocking in the main highlights using Vallejo’s English Uniform (VX-88). Apply this colour where you want the primary light source to hit, focusing on a top-left orientation.Be mindful not to make the colour too opaque; a slight texture is desirable for the metallic effect. Understanding Colour Choices: The choice of metallic colours doesn’t have to be conventional. For this model, I went for a dark and moody theme inspired by the artwork of Nagash.My chosen metallic shades include Golden Olive, Yellow Green, and Ice Yellow from Vallejo, along with Rhinox Hide and Abaddon Black from Games Workshop. Building Layers of Colour: Use Golden Olive to build layers on top of the English Uniform, focusing on areas that require additional depth and shading.The opacity of Vallejo paints allows for strong, defined marks, ideal for creating small details and textures. Creating Texture and Depth: With each layer, gradually introduce lighter shades such as Yellow Green and Ice Yellow to enhance highlights and add dimension to the metallic surfaces.Keep in mind the direction of light and focus on maintaining a balance between light and shadow. Understanding Volume and Light: Highlighting metallic surfaces requires understanding how light interacts with volume. Unlike standard blending techniques, aim for distinct contrasts between light and shadow. Make sure you consider how light reflects off different surfaces, creating highlights and shadows of varying intensities. I like to use lots of real-life references of metal to study as I paint. Achieving a Moody Atmosphere: For an undead character like Nagash, aim for a dark, desaturated overall appearance. Use strong, small highlights strategically to draw attention to focal points. Avoid smooth blending; purposefully textured painting adds depth and character to the model. Experimenting with Glazing TechniquesExperiment with glazing techniques to blend colours seamlessly and soften transitions between different areas of the model.Glazing allows for subtle colour adjustments and can help unify the overall color scheme, creating a harmonious visual effect. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Part Two In this part, we’ll focus on painting the skull face, hair, and bone structures atop the hat. Paints Vallejo Model Colour: English Uniform (VX-88), Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow), Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green), Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow), Ivory (Screaming Skull), Neutral Grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey), Pale Grey Blue (Grey Seer mixed with Blue Horror) Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Warpstone Green Contrast, Deathclaw Brown P3: Morrow White Steps and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet (Part Two) Paint the Bone Structures: Using Vallejo’s English Uniform (VX-88), begin by painting the bone structures on top of the hat. Focus on picking out the highlights, keeping in mind the top-left orientation of the light source. Apply the paint carefully to emphasize the edges and contours of the bones.Enhance the Bone Texture: Utilise Golden Olive (a mix of Elysian Green and Yriel Yellow) to add depth and shading to the bone structures. Concentrate on areas that require additional definition, such as the joints and sockets. Remember to maintain a balance between light and shadow to create a realistic, textured effect.Add Highlights: With Yellow Green (a mix of Dorn Yellow and Moot Green), further highlight the bone structures, focusing on the areas where light would naturally hit. Pay attention to the left-hand side of the model to create a stronger contrast and emphasise the lighting direction.Refine the Highlights: Using Ice Yellow (Dorn Yellow), continue to build up the highlights on the bone structures, especially on the left-hand side. Gradually increase the brightness of the highlights towards the center of the model to draw attention to focal points.Adjusting with Rhinox Hide: If necessary, use Rhinox Hide to refine any areas where you’ve made mistakes or to add depth to the shadows. The translucency of this paint allows for easy blending and adjustment while maintaining a natural look.Painting the Skull Face: For the skull face, start with Deathclaw Brown, focusing on creating a weathered, textured appearance. Apply the paint in a rough, uneven manner to mimic the natural wear and tear of ancient bones.Highlighting the Skull: Gradually add highlights to the skull using Morghast Bone. Concentrate the highlights towards the left-hand side of the face to maintain consistency with the overall lighting scheme. Ensure the highlights stand out against the darker base colour to create depth and dimension.Adding Detail to the Eyes: Use a small amount of Morghast Bone to pick out the details around the eyes, emphasising the cheekbones and brow ridge. Be mindful of the sculpted eye sockets and adjust the highlights accordingly to enhance the overall appearance.Painting the Hair: Begin painting the hair with Neutral Grey, focusing on the large, clumpy strands. Keep the highlights towards the top side of the hair to simulate light hitting the surface. Apply the paint in a rough, textured manner to achieve a realistic look.Adding Texture to the Hair: Continue to build up the texture of the hair using Pale Grey Blue. Emphasize the highlights on the top side of the hair while leaving the underside darker to create depth and volume.Refining the Highlights: Using Morrow White sparingly, refine the highlights on the hair strands to add contrast and dimension. Focus on the areas closest to the face to draw attention to the focal points. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Freehand Swirls/Filigree Paints Vallejo: English Uniform (VX-88), Golden Olive (Elysian Green mixed with Yriel Yellow), Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green), Ivory (Screaming Skull), Neutral Grey (Mechanicus Standard Grey), Pale Grey Blue (Grey Seer mixed with Blue Horror)Games Workshop: Warpstone Green Contrast, Abaddon BlackP3: Morrow White Tips for the Freehand Filigree Base Coat: Apply a base coat of Vallejo English Uniform (VX-88) to start the filigree on the Nagash hat. Ensure even coverage and allow it to dry completely. Highlighting with Yellow-Green: Mix Vallejo Yellow Green (Dorn Yellow mixed with Moot Green) with a small amount of white to increase opacity. Use a fine tip brush to apply highlights to what would be the raised areas of the filigree. Focus on creating sharp lines and highlights to enhance the detail. Adding Ivory Highlight Dots: Using Vallejo Ivory (Screaming Skull), create small highlight dots on the filigree. These dots should be strategically placed on curves and extreme curve points to simulate shine and reflectivity. Ensure consistency in placement for a cohesive look. Enhancing Contrast with Black: With Games Workshop Abaddon Black, carefully outline the filigree details to enhance contrast and definition. Use a fine tip brush and steady hand to create clean lines and borders. Glazing with Warpstone Green Contrast: Thin Games Workshop Warpstone Green Contrast with water (about two parts water to one part paint) to create a glaze. Apply the glaze over the filigree to enhance shading and highlights. Final Touches: Use P3 Morrow White to add final highlights to the filigree, focusing on the most raised and reflective areas. Ensure consistency and restraint with the white highlights to avoid overpowering the overall effect. Video – How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and Runes By following these steps and techniques, you can effectively paint leather strips and runes on your Nagash (or any other model, really!) adding depth, texture, and character. Paints Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Temple Guard Blue, Barroth Blue. Step and Tips on How to Paint the Nagash Helmet Leather Strips and Runes Base Coat: Ensure that the leather strips on the Nagash helmet are properly primed with black primer. Once primed, apply a base coat of Games Workshop Mournfang Brown to the leather strips. This will serve as the foundation for the leather texture. Highlighting with Mournfang Brown: Using Games Workshop Mournfang Brown, begin highlighting the curves and raised areas of the leather strips. Apply the paint in a textured manner, focusing on creating depth and dimension to simulate the appearance of weathered leather. Don’t worry about perfect blending; imperfections add to the realism. Layering with Cadian Fleshtone: Next, switch to Games Workshop Cadian Fleshtone and continue highlighting the leather strips. Apply this paint more sparingly, focusing on the most raised areas and curves to enhance the texture. The tonal contrast between Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone will create depth and visual interest. Glazing with Rhinox Hide: Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water to create a glaze. Apply the glaze over the highlighted areas to tone down the highlights and add depth to the leather texture. Focus on applying the glaze in the shadowed areas and along the edges of the leather strips for a realistic look. Painting Runes: Using Games Workshop Temple Guard Blue and Barroth Blue, paint the runes onto the leather strips. Ensure that the runes are clearly visible and neatly painted. Use a fine tip brush and steady hand to create clean lines and shapes. Less is more; avoid overcrowding the leather strips with too many runes to maintain balance. Touching Up: Review the painted leather strips and runes, making any necessary touch-ups or adjustments. Ensure consistency in highlighting placement and rune design throughout the miniature model. For all of my Nagash Tutorials in one place, go here Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead Nagash, Supreme Lord of the Undead is the father of necromancy.  I created a series of detailed tutorials on how I painted him. Watch Now Explore More Nagash Technique Tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...
April 7, 2024Games Workshop sent me the new gnome special character, Rodney Roachbait, for the gnome Blood Bowl team. I haven’t quite managed to finish him yet, but close enough. The rope is only base coloured, the handle isn’t done and his orange waders need finishing on the back, among other bits and pieces. A Gnome Star Player in Blood Bowl, Rodney Roachbaitis a notorious line-man of the Altdorf Park Anglers. He’s an absolutely tiny model, but so full of character, I couldn’t resist painting him. It was also a nice change of pace from all the mean and moody things I’ve been painting. Follow along with my tutorials on how I painted him! There are many textures to explore that you can recreate on a variety on your models: How to Paint Rodney Roachbait A small series on how to paint Rodney Roachbait, the new Blood Bowl star player for their Gnome team! In these videos we will explore lots of different textures and techniques a lot different to my usual moody and dark style. Watch Now Who is Rodney Roachbait? Unveiled at the Warhammer World Anniversary Preview, Rodney emerged from the shadows as a seasoned Star Player, bringing with him a legacy of both notoriety and skill from his days as a line-man for the Altdorf Park Anglers. In Blood Bowl, Rodney stands apart as a gnome of unconventional tactics, but with a determination often very present in gnomes! While most gnomes revel in the chaos of the gridiron, Rodney was keen to prove that the boisterous sport of Blood Bowl pales in comparison to the finesse required in the art of fishing. Initially met with defeat, Rodney refused to be deterred. Armed with his trusty fishing rod, he ventured onto the field against the Merry Mootmen Halfling team, weaving his angling expertise into the game and securing a victory for his gnome brethren. His triumph became the stuff of legend, a tale he relishes recounting whenever given the chance (certainly not a “one that got away” story, ha ha). (Sorry) For teams fortunate enough to enlist Rodney Roachbait, his tactical acumen and fisherman’s flair make him a great team member. With his Catch of the Day ability, Rodney can seize control of an unattended ball once per half, leaving opponents in disarray. Combining his Stunty and Sidestep skills, Rodney evades tackles with ease, and his resilience is further bolstered by Jump Up, ensuring he swiftly bounces back from any knockdowns. At a mere 70,000 GP, Rodney is a bargain for Halfling Thimble Cup teams seeking an edge on the field. Available as an expert kit crafted from Forge World resin, Rodney Roachbait promises to elevate any team lucky enough to harness his unparalleled prowess! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...] Read more...

If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access.

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