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Tutorial Examples

How to Paint an Orange Blood Angel for Movember

This tutorial with video will guide you through how to paint range Blood Angel Space Marine with a unique orange twist to his armour. Painted as part of Movember for mental health awareness, this model also features a freehand moustache as a quirky homage to the cause. One of the key challenges of this project was working with Troll Slayer Orange—an infamously tricky paint—and blending it into the Blood Angels’ classic aesthetic, reminiscent of their older colour schemes. Video: How to Paint an Orange Blood Angel Paints Used Games Workshop Mephiston Red Rhinox Hide Balor Brown XV-88 Troll Slayer Orange Sotek Green Contrast Medium Contrast Dark Oath Flesh Vallejo Ice Yellow Black Neutral Grey Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold Game Colour Scarlet Blood Scale 75 Necro Gold P3 Morrow White AK 3rd Gen (Optional) Golden Brown Light Brown Step-By-Step – How to Paint an Orange Blood Angel 1. Basecoat with Mephiston Red Method: Begin by stippling Mephiston Red over a black-primed model using a small drybrush. This base layer ensures smoother transitions when applying the Troll Slayer Orange later, as orange paint is notoriously translucent over black. Consistency: Thin the Mephiston Red with a 50/50 mix of water and paint for better flow. Use a damp brush for stippling to achieve a consistent texture. Tips: Regularly clean and dry your brush to avoid flooding the model with excess paint. Use a smaller, chunky brush to fill in hard-to-reach areas to eliminate visible primer in the recesses. 2. Add Scarlet Blood for Vibrancy Paint: Vallejo Scarlet Blood Method: Stipple this matte red paint over the basecoat, focusing on areas that catch light, such as the chest, shoulder pads, and helmet. This adds richness to the tone while subtly transitioning towards orange. Placement: Apply with precision, keeping the brush perpendicular to the model to avoid drybrush streaks. Alternatives: Evil Sunz Scarlet can be used instead if you prefer GW paints, but Scarlet Blood offers excellent coverage and vibrancy. 3. Highlight with Troll Slayer Orange Paint: Troll Slayer Orange Method: Thin the orange paint (1:1 water to paint) and apply it to the raised areas in multiple thin layers. Its translucency works in your favour, blending naturally with the red beneath. Technique: Work around the model, allowing sections to dry before returning for additional layers. This prevents muddy transitions and creates a soft gradient. Pro Tip: For a less orange look, mix Scarlet Blood with small amounts of white or yellow to lighten highlights without veering too far into orange territory. 4. Shade with Contrast Dark Oath Flesh Paint: Contrast Dark Oath Flesh + Contrast Medium Method: Apply a diluted wash of Dark Oath Flesh over the entire model. This acts as a filter, unifying the tones, shading the recesses, and reducing the vibrancy of the orange. Consistency: Use Contrast Medium instead of water to maintain the wash’s properties. Check for pooling and wick away excess with a clean, damp brush. 5. Painting Details and Metallics Metallic Paints: Vallejo Metal Colour Exhaust Manifold, Scale 75 Necro Gold (or Viking Gold) Method: Pick out the trim, weapon details, and any embellishments. Silver: Use Vallejo Exhaust Manifold for weaponry. Gold: Apply Necro Gold on selected trims (e.g., shoulder pads). Highlight with a lighter gold for emphasis. Pro Tip: To create a weathered look, glaze Dark Oath Flesh over metallics for a patina effect. 6. Adding Glow to the Eyes Paints: Sotek Green, Ice Yellow, and White Steps: Paint the eye lenses with Ice Yellow to create a bright base. Glaze over with Sotek Green to establish the colour. Highlight the centre of the lens with Ice Yellow and pure White for the brightest point. Add Object Source Lighting (OSL): Thin Sotek Green and lightly glaze the surrounding areas to simulate a glow effect. Tips: Focus OSL on areas in shadow for the most dramatic effect. If the surrounding armour is well-lit, the glow will appear less intense. 7. The Moustache As a nod to Movember, the model features a freehand moustache on its faceplate. Basecoat: Use Golden Brown for the initial design. Highlight: Build up with Ice Yellow for a metallic gold appearance. Symmetry: For best results, face the model head-on while painting and use short, confident brush strokes. Pro Tip: If you make a mistake, mix Rhinox Hide and Troll Slayer Orange to “erase” errors and blend corrections seamlessly. 8. Final Touches and Base Decals: Apply transfers with Micro Set to conform them to the armour, then stipple over with basecoat colours for a weathered look. Base: Keep it simple—sand painted with Agrax Earthshade, finished with a touch of weathering powder. This project was a fun challenge, blending unconventional colours into a Blood Angels scheme while supporting an important cause. Whether you tackle the freehand mustache or adapt the colour palette for your own chapter, the techniques here can add character and vibrancy to any Space Marine. If you want to support the Movember mental health campaign, check out the link below: https://movember.com/m/15175299 Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Freehand Skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper Helmet

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the entire process of painting a freehand skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper helmet. This tutorial is ideal for intermediate to advanced painters looking to add some atmospheric detail to their Dark Reaper unit. Let’s get started! Video: How to Paint a Freehand Skull on an Aeldari Dark Reaper Helmet Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Sotek Green P3: Morrow White (or any white paint) Vallejo: Model Colour Black Other Supplies: Sculpting putty (for filling face details) Tamia Extra Thin Cement (optional, for smoothing putty edges) Sharp scalpel for scraping Wet palette for paint mixing Step 1: Prepare the Surface Fill in Sculpted Details: To ensure a smooth surface for the skull, use sculpting putty to fill in the nose and teeth details on the face. Apply a generous amount to cover gaps. Let it Dry Fully: Allow the putty to dry overnight. Scrape any excess with a scalpel for a smooth finish, avoiding key areas like the chin and brow to retain sharpness. Step 2: Prime the Model Apply Primer: Prime the model with black primer to enhance contrast and set the base for painting. Use Pins for Easy Handling: Attach pins to the model’s head and limbs to make it easier to handle and reposition during the painting process. Step 3: Painting the Eyes Base Colour: Start with Sotek Green as the base for the eye lenses. Layering Highlights: Gradually add white to Sotek Green for each successive layer, creating depth in the eye lenses. Focus highlights on the bottom edge of the lenses, where light naturally hits. Add Depth with Shadows: If desired, darken the top corner of each lens to achieve a soulless, reflective look. This effect is achieved by carefully adding black to the darkest areas, giving the eyes a sharp, eerie quality. Step 4: Begin the Skull Outline Base Colour with XV-88: Use XV-88 to outline the skull shape across the helmet’s face. This will act as the base colour for the skull, creating a solid foundation for further detail. Shadow Layer with Rhinox Hide: Mix XV-88 with Rhinox Hide to deepen shadows in certain areas, like the cheekbones and under the brow ridge. Step 5: Adding Skull Highlights Transition Layer with Morghast Bone: After blocking out the skull shape with XV-88, begin adding highlights with Morghast Bone. Apply this colour around the raised areas, like the forehead, cheekbones, and jaw. Create Smooth Transitions: Mix XV-88 and Morghast Bone to bridge the tones, softening transitions between shadows and highlights. Stippling for Texture: For a realistic bone texture, stipple Morghast Bone across the forehead and cheekbones. This adds a slight roughness, giving the impression of natural bone. Step 6: Fine Details and Teeth Teeth Outline: Using Morghast Bone, paint the teeth by creating slightly exaggerated outlines. This allows for sharper definition when refining with black later. Refining with Vallejo Black: Use Vallejo Black to cut into the teeth and refine their shape, narrowing them where necessary for a natural look. Vallejo Black’s smooth flow makes it ideal for creating crisp lines. Emphasising Depth: Rhinox Hide can be used as a softer alternative to pure black for adding shadows around the teeth and along cheekbone lines, giving a more subtle definition. Step 7: Highlighting and Final Refinements Add Bright Highlights: Mix Morghast Bone with Morrow White for the final highlights, concentrating on high points like the brow, the tip of the nose, and the edges of the cheekbones. Focus on Forehead Shine: For an extra focal point, add a slightly larger bright highlight to the forehead’s centre to mimic natural light reflection. Tweak Subtle Details: Adjust any final areas as necessary, ensuring the highlights and shadows balance well across the skull. This can be done by adding small touches of colour or blending transitions further. Step 8: Optional Final Touches If you wish to increase contrast, especially under high display lighting, revisit the forehead and cheekbone highlights, pushing the lighter areas with a touch more Morrow White. Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Legions Imperialis Vulturax

This guide will take you through a comprehensive, hand-painting (no airbrush needed!) approach to How to Paint a Legions Imperialis Vulturax from the Mechanicum set. This process focuses on giving the Vulturax a gritty, battle-worn look suited for the Mechanicum. The layering and glazing techniques create depth and realism without the need for an airbrush! Video: How to Paint a Legions Imperialis Vulturax Materials Needed Primers: Black primer Metallic Paints: Vallejo Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey, Two Thin Coats Dragon’s Gold Contrasts/Washes: Games Workshop Skeleton Horde Contrast, Nuln Oil Layer Paints: Games Workshop Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Barak-Nar Burgundy (optional) Highlight Colours: Vallejo Model Colour Black, P3 Morrow White (or white of your choice) Step by Step Guide on How to Paint a Legions Imperialis Vulturax Priming and Preparing the Model Prime the model in black. A solid black primer will help accentuate shadows, adding depth to the metallic layers applied later. If there are noticeable gaps (e.g., along the carapace), fill these with sprue goo, soften with Tamiya Extra Thin cement, and scrape off excess with a scalpel for a smooth finish once dried. Base Metallic Layer Using Vallejo Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey, apply a rough metallic base layer to all metallic parts. This paint flows well but can be tricky to control, so use a small, chunky brush (like an Artis Opus Series M, size 3) in a dry-brush style. This ensures you catch raised areas without flooding recesses. Note: If you’re aiming for quick tabletop-ready results, you could airbrush the metallics instead and add the black areas afterward. Adding Gold Trim Paint any decorative trim or other detailing with Two Thin Coats Dragon’s Gold. Thin the paint slightly for a smoother application. Once dry, cover all metallic areas (including the gold trim) with Games Workshop Skeleton Horde Contrast. This will provide a dirtier, muted effect and unify the metals with a tarnished look. Highlighting and Refining Metals Go back in with Vallejo Metal Colour Gunmetal Grey in a dry-brush style to pick up some of the edges and raised details for a more worn look. Add depth and subtle shading by applying Nuln Oil wash into the darkest recesses (e.g., around jets, under tentacle areas). Multiple layers of Nuln Oil can increase contrast, building up a realistic depth. Armour Panel Highlighting (Grey Tones) Prepare a range of grey shades by mixing Vallejo Model Colour Black with increments of white, or use pre-made grey paints (e.g., German Grey for the base layer). Layering Technique: Starting with the darkest grey, layer up to a lighter grey at the highest points, focusing highlights on prominent armour curves, like the front curve of the carapace. Highlight Direction: Always paint towards the highlighted area, keeping the brightest highlights focused on the most raised and forward-facing surfaces for a directional light effect. Lens Detailing For lenses, use Evil Sunz Scarlet as a base. Optionally, mix Barak-Nar Burgundy with white for a pinkish shade to create a soft gradient effect from dark to light within the lens. Place a small white dot at the top left of each lens to simulate a reflection, creating a focal shine. Grime and Dirt Effects To create a weathered look, use Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown: Thin Rhinox Hide to a glaze consistency (about four parts water to one part paint). Start at the highlighted edges of the grey panels and pull the glaze toward recesses to soften transitions and add a subtle brown tint. Repeat with Mournfang Brown along the edges of trim and armour joins to add dirt streaks and grime. You can dilute this colour less for streaking effects and apply it in vertical strokes for a natural weathering look. Final Highlights and Touch-Ups Use a mixture of P3 Morrow White with a touch of black to create a very light grey for edge highlights along the carapace. For the gold trim, reapply Dragon’s Gold sparingly to highlight curves and make the edges pop, aligning highlights with the shine spot on the carapace’s front for a cohesive look. Adding Optional Details If you want to make your Vulturax model stand out, consider adding an hazard stripes or stripes in orange to some armour panels for a striking visual. So, the idea behind this Vulturax was to give it a darker, grittier look, kind of like it belongs to the Dark Mechanicum. At the time of painting, I didn’t have the full rulebook, so I wasn’t entirely sure how it could be used in a force, but I later found out that while the Dark Mechanicum can’t field it as a primary unit, it can be used as an allied unit for traitor forces. So, if you want to have these in your Dark Mechanicum army, you totally can, but they’ll act as allies rather than main force members. This really plays into the idea that the Dark Mechanicum forces are distinct from their Loyalist counterparts – they don’t use the same types of machines. The Dark Mechanicum is all about those huge, chaotic, SP war machines, while the traditional Mechanicum has cleaner, more standardised tech. This separation between traitors and Loyalists isn’t just about who’s ‘good’ or ‘bad’ in 30K, though – it’s more of a philosophical and technological divide. Dark Mechanicum units, for example, aren’t focused on keeping things shiny or pristine. They’re more rugged, rough around the edges, and unapologetically worn-looking. I think that fits the character of the Vulturax perfectly. Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf

In this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf from the new Chaos Dwarf Blood Bowl box, provided by Games Workshop as an early review copy. We’ll be focusing on achieving a high tabletop standard, using a combination of classic paint colours and techniques to bring out the rich, detailed character of the model. Whether you’re painting for your next game or aiming for a display-worthy finish, this step-by-step guide will help you tackle everything from non-metallic metal gold to vibrant red armour, all while keeping the process efficient and enjoyable. Video – How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf Step-by-Step Guide Materials Required: Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Bugman’s Glow, Night Lords Blue, Rhinox Hide Vallejo Paints: Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey Two Thin Coats Paints: Dark Sun YellowWhite Star Brushes: Artis Opus Size 1 Brush, Artis Opus Size 00 Brush Other Tools: Wet Palette, Lamp (for checking light placement), Water Jar How to Paint a Blood Bowl Chaos Dwarf Step 1: Priming Start by priming the model using Mephiston Red as the base coat. You can use an airbrush or a hand brush to apply it. This will form the base of the red armour and speed up the process. Step 2: Painting the Beard For the beard, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to base coat it. Highlight the beard using Vallejo Neutral Grey. Apply this in parallel strokes to follow the sculpted lines of the beard. Add some final highlights by mixing Neutral Grey with a bit of White Star and pick out raised areas. Step 3: Painting the Non-Metallic Gold Trim For the gold trim, begin with XV-88 as the base colour. This provides a solid foundation for the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. Create your first highlight mix with Dark Sun Yellow. Layer this on top of the XV-88, leaving some of the base visible. Gradually lighten the gold by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with White Star. Apply smaller, more precise highlights with each layer. To give the gold a bit more warmth, you can glaze over areas with XV-88 or add subtle orange tints using Troll Slayer Orange in the shadowed areas. Step 4: Painting the Red Armour After the Mephiston Red base, layer on Evil Sunz Scarlet. Use a stippling or scratchy technique to give texture to the armour. For shadowing, use Night Lords Blue in the recesses and shaded areas, being careful not to overwhelm the red. If needed, go back with Evil Sunz Scarlet to reinforce the red and add brightness. Step 5: Shading and Highlighting the Face Wash the face with a thinned-down layer of Rhinox Hide (4 parts water, 1 part paint) to shade it and separate it from the rest of the armour. Highlight the face using Bugman’s Glow, focusing on the raised areas like the nose, cheeks, and brow. For brighter highlights, mix Bugman’s Glow with Ice Yellow (or White Star if you don’t have Ice Yellow) to add subtle highlights to key areas like the cheekbones and nose bridge. Step 6: Painting the Eyes Paint the whites of the eyes using a light grey rather than pure white to keep it natural. Use black to paint the pupil and iris in one go, as these are very small details that don’t require too much fine detail. Step 7: Painting the Teeth and Horns Base the teeth and horns with Morghast Bone. You can use the same colour for both areas to keep consistency. Add highlights using White Star on the tips of the teeth and horns, carefully placing small dots or lines for a shine effect. Step 8: Painting the Leather Areas The gloves and boots can be painted with the same colours as the horns. Start with XV-88 for the base coat, then highlight with Morghast Bone, but don’t take the highlights up to white for these areas. Step 9: Finishing Touches Once the main areas are painted, go back and refine any details that need sharpening, such as the edges of the armour or the highlights on the face. If the red armour starts looking too dark or the highlights become too muted, reapply Evil Sunz Scarlet in fine marks to bring the vibrancy back. Step 10: Final Shading and Glazing For a final touch, glaze over the non-metallic gold areas with a thin mix of XV-88 to enhance the richness of the colour. You can add extra depth to the shadows by applying a thin wash of Night Lords Blue in the deepest recesses of the red armour. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials

For my Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials, I wanted to convey him truly as he is – the embodiment of millennia of chaos, terror, and galactic warfare. As the Warmaster of Chaos, Abaddon stands at the pinnacle of the Warhammer 40K universe, leading the Black Legion and waging countless wars in the name of the Dark Gods. When it came to painting this iconic character, I wanted to capture not only the weight of his legacy but also the immense detail Games Workshop has packed into his sculpt. This series of tutorials is a comprehensive guide to painting Abaddon the Despoiler, taking you through every step — from his infamous gold armor to the haunting freehand work on his cloak. Whether you’re looking to push your skills for a competition display piece or aiming to bring the Warmaster to life for the tabletop, these videos will guide you through the techniques needed to achieve a striking result. Gold Armour Trim and Armour – Using Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) In the first video of this series, we dive into one of the most defining features of Abaddon’s armor: the rich, dark gold trim. Instead of using metallic paints, I opted for a non-metallic metal (NMM) technique to really make the gold pop. The base coat of XV-88, layered with Balor Brown and Pale Grey Blue, creates depth and complexity, while small touches of white add that final reflective edge. Painting gold in NMM can be tricky, but it gives the armour an otherworldly, luminous quality. Watch Now Skull and Leather – Adding Character and Texture Abaddon’s skull decoration, dangling from his belt, is grim reminder of his connection to death and destruction. Painting it required careful layering of XV-88, Morghast Bone, and Screaming Skull to create the right mix of texture and realism. The leather loincloth, on the other hand, allowed for a more rugged, worn appearance. By using Rhinox Hide as the base, and carefully layering Cadian Fleshtone and Morghast Bone for highlights, I aimed to give the leather a weathered, battle-scarred look. Watch Now Drach’nyen – A Daemon-Infused Sword Drach’nyen, Abaddon’s sword, is a daemon weapon capable of wreaking havoc on the battlefield, and painting it was one of the most exciting parts of this project. The blade’s eerie green glow, achieved with Warpstone Glow and Sotek Green, draws attention to the faces that seem to emerge from the sword itself. Using NMM techniques for the metallic parts of the hilt adds a cohesive look, tying the weapon into the overall feel of Abaddon’s model. Watch Now Red OSL (Object Source Lighting) – The Glow of Chaos A major focal point of Abaddon’s model is the red glow of chaos. For this, I employed Object Source Lighting (OSL) techniques using Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red. Carefully layering these reds over Bugman’s Glow and Kislev Flesh creates a subtle yet intense glow that adds a sense of malevolence to Abaddon’s visage. Watch Now Shoulder Pad – The All-Seeing Eye and Intricate Gold Trim Abaddon’s shoulder pad, adorned with the all-seeing eye, serves as a powerful symbol of his connection to Chaos and his relentless pursuit of power. . I began by painting the pupil and iris with deep blues and subtle yellows, using Kantor Blue and Flash Gitz Yellow to create a vibrant, glowing effect. Meanwhile, the whites of the eye, highlighted with Ushabti Bone and detailed with thin, vein-like lines, add to the menacing realism. Watch Now Hair and Talon – Textures and Non-Metallic Metal Mastery Abaddon’s talon and hair combine to create a striking contrast between organic texture and metallic sheen, both of which add depth and realism to the model. The talon, painted using a non-metallic metal (NMM) effect, features a worn, weathered appearance. For Abaddon’s hair, I used Rhinox Hide as the base, with Mournfang Brown and Cadian Fleshtone to build up highlights. By applying Ushabti Bone to the very tips of the hair strands, I created a natural, textured finish that mimics the flow and movement of real hair. Watch Now The Cloak – Leather, Freehand, and Chaos Iconography Abaddon’s cloak is a testament to the grandeur of Chaos. I broke this part into multiple videos, starting with a leather effect on the inside of the cloak. The freehand work on the cloak, where I painted the faces of the four Chaos Gods, was the most challenging aspect of this model. Each section was dedicated to one of the dark gods — Slaanesh, Khorne, Nurgle, and Tzeentch — with their respective colours and textures. The final part of the cloak focuses on the iconic eight-pointed star of Chaos, blending the symbols into the fabric to represent Abaddon’s devotion to all four gods equally. Watch Now Trophy Rack – A Display of Defeat The trophy rack on Abaddon’s back is a grim reminder of the many enemies he has bested in combat. I used a combination of Vallejo and Games Workshop paints to give the Space Marine helmet a battle-worn appearance, adding scratches and weathering to make it look like it had seen countless wars. The wooden spikes and NMM metal tips provide additional texture and visual interest, while the skulls, painted with layers of Rhinox Hide and Screaming Skull, give the model a truly macabre touch. Watch Now Inspiration Behind the Project The inspiration for painting Abaddon came from a desire to push my painting skills and tackle a model that’s not only iconic but also loaded with intricate detail. I wanted to capture the dark, chaotic essence of Abaddon — from the daemonic energy of Drach’nyen to the gruesome trophy rack that looms over his back. Lore-wise, Abaddon is one of the most significant figures in Warhammer 40K. As the successor to Horus, Abaddon leads the Black Legion and has spearheaded no fewer than thirteen Black Crusades, each one aimed at toppling the Imperium of Man. His armor, known as the “Terminator Armor of the Warmaster,” is a relic of ancient times, and his weapon, Drach’nyen, is a sword infused with a daemonic presence. Every piece of Abaddon’s model tells a story of his conquests and the dark path he treads as the chosen of Chaos Undivided. For me, bringing Abaddon to life in paint was not just about technical mastery but about conveying his towering presence on the battlefield. I wanted the cloak to reflect his allegiance to all four Chaos Gods, while the armor, trim, and weaponry symbolize the destruction he’s capable of unleashing. All Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials Want all the tutorials on one massive long page?Follow the link below to watch them all. Abaddon the Despoiler Tutorials A series of videos on how to paint Abbadon the Despoiler to competition standard – (new step-by-step guides included!) Watch Now Join the Website! To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour – PDF

Unlock the secrets to painting Rogal Dorn’s iconic armour with this comprehensive guide on the Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) technique. Learn how to master the art of simulating reflective gold without using metallic paints. This step-by-step guide, complete with tips and tricks, will walk you through every stage of the process, from priming and base layers to perfecting highlights and shadows. Whether you’re new to NMM or looking to refine your skills, this guide is your go-to resource for achieving stunning results. How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here. Looking for the video? How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Gold In this detailed video guide you will be shown how to paint Rogal Dorn’s armour in NMM (non-metallic metal) gold. This is a higher level technique, suitable for the mighty Primarch of the Imperial Fists! Watch Now Read PDF Guide Why Use NMM Gold for to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour? Rogal Dorn, the stalwart Primarch of the Imperial Fists, is renowned for his unyielding defence of the Imperium. His armour, adorned in resplendent gold, symbolizes not only his noble duty to protect humanity but also reflects the unbreakable spirit of the Imperial Fists. The gold represents his loyalty and the shining beacon of hope he stands for in the dark times of war. Painting his armour in Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) gold captures this grandeur and allows you to highlight the brilliance and majesty of one of the Imperium’s greatest warriors! More Tips on NMM! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs in addition to the How to Paint Rogal Dorn’s Armour in Non-Metallic Metal PDF above. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. [...]

How to Paint an Aeldari Autarch Jump Pack with Spider Web and Gems

Welcome to this detailed guide on How to Paint an Aeldari Autarch Jump Pack, including freehand spider web designs, volumetric highlights, and painting red gems with horizon lines. In this tutorial, we’ll walk through the key techniques used in the process, as well as the specific paints required. Video: How to Paint an Aeldari Autarch Jump Pack with Spider Web and Gems Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Khorne Red, Wazdakka Red, Pink Horror Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Black, Game Colour Turquoise P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 00 brush (Artis Opus or similar) Wet palette Water for thinning paint Step by Step Guide – How to Paint an Aeldari Autarch Jump Pack with Spider Web and Gems Step 1: Blocking in the Spider Web Design Basecoat the jump pack in black primer. This will be the foundation upon which all the other layers will sit. Mark the anchor points for the web lines. Start by identifying four reference points around the spider gem in the centre of the jump pack. These lines will radiate outward, so place one line on each side of the spider to ensure symmetry. Draw the initial lines. Using Vallejo Neutral Grey, draw thin lines extending from the spider gem to the outer edges of the jump pack. It’s crucial to space these lines evenly to maintain the illusion of symmetry. Add in-between lines. After the four main lines are in place, draw connecting lines between them, creating a spider web pattern. Keep these lines neat and consistent. Refine the lines. Once all lines are blocked in, clean up any mistakes with Vallejo Black. You can sharpen the edges of the web lines by gently “cutting in” with the black paint to make them ultra crisp. Step 2: Adding Asymmetry to the Design Introduce asymmetry deliberately. To avoid the spider web looking too perfect, introduce small inconsistencies. Paint some sections slightly off to add a natural, web-like randomness. This will also help mask any small imperfections. Create asymmetrical details. On either side of the web, you can add small circles or other decorative elements to break up the symmetry. These will later be painted as gems, so feel free to add small, interesting features that balance the design. Step 3: Volumetric Highlights on the Web Apply volumetric highlights. Use Vallejo Neutral Grey to create highlights on certain parts of the web. Focus on areas where light would naturally hit the design, such as the topmost parts of the jump pack. Blend the highlights. Thin the paint to a roughly 60/40 mix of water to paint and lightly stipple the grey onto the surfaces, blending it smoothly into the black basecoat. This will give the web a realistic shine and depth. Step 4: Painting the Gems with Horizon Lines Start with the basecoat. Use Games Workshop Khorne Red to paint the base of the gems. Cover the gem surfaces evenly, ensuring no black primer shows through. Add shadows. Mix Khorne Red with a bit of Vallejo Black to create a dark red and apply this in the middle section of the gem, creating a “horizon line” effect. This gives the illusion of depth. Highlight with Wazdakka Red. Apply Wazdakka Red to the lower portion of the gem. Blend the transition between the darker red and Wazdakka Red to create a smooth gradient. Create the final highlight with Pink Horror. On the bottom section of the gem, apply Pink Horror to make it pop. Use a thin, translucent layer to ensure a subtle transition between the colours. Add the white specular highlight. Use P3 Morrow White to place a tiny dot on the top left of each gem. This should be the brightest point, simulating light reflection. Step 5: Painting the Blue Gems Basecoat the small gems in Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise. Ensure the coverage is smooth. Create a shadow. Mix the turquoise with black for the upper portion of the gem. This dark section will help the highlight stand out later. Add highlights. Gradually mix white into the turquoise and apply it to the lower right of the gem, following the same method as the red gems. Finish with a white highlight. Place a small white dot on the upper left of each blue gem to represent the light source, matching the technique used on the red gems. Step 6: Final Adjustments Tidy up the design. Go back with Vallejo Black or Neutral Grey to sharpen any lines that may have been blurred during the process. Blend further if needed. If the transitions in the gems or the volumetric highlights seem too stark, glaze over them with thinned down versions of the base colours to smooth things out. And that’s it! You’ve now completed the spider web design with volumetric highlights and stunning gems on your Aeldari Autarch jump pack. This method requires patience and refinement, but with these techniques, you’ll achieve a competition-level finish. Enjoy your painting! Want to know how to paint the freehand spider? How to Paint a Freehand Spider Gem How to paint a freehand spider gem on a round section of a backpack. The goal is to create a smooth, detailed finish using the right colours, applying stippling and glazing techniques, and ensuring sharp, clean lines in the freehand design. Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock

In this guide, we’ll walk through how to paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock with a grimy, non-metallic metal (NMM) effect. The focus will be on creating weathered steel armour and verdigris-weathered copper. You’ll learn to build up layers using stippling and dry brushing, while maintaining the gritty, battle-worn look typical of Skaven. This method is also ideal for quickly painting an entire army to a table-ready standard. Video – How to Paint the Skaven Arch-Warlock: Part One Materials Needed: Games Workshop Paints: Doombull Brown, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Abaddon Black, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow Vallejo Paints: Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow Brushes: Large and small dry brushes (Artis Opus recommended, or makeup brushes can suffice), size 0 brush, and others as needed Step 1: Prime the Model Begin by priming your assembled model with Abaddon Black, Step 2: Base Layer with Mournfang Brown Using a large dry brush, apply a base coat of Mournfang Brown using a stippling technique. Thin the paint by mixing it with water (about 50/50 ratio). Ensure the dry brush is damp but not wet to avoid texture buildup. Stipple the paint all over the model, ensuring a smooth application with no unwanted texture. This will create a rough surface that adds depth to the dirty, grimy appearance of the armour. Step 3: Add Neutral Grey Highlights Switch to a smaller dry brush for more control, and apply Vallejo Neutral Grey. Again, thin the paint with water (50/50) and lightly stipple the paint over areas where you want the steel effect. Focus on armour plates and metallic surfaces, building up a soft layer of grey over the brown to give it a worn metallic look. Let the initial layer of Mournfang Brown peek through to give the impression of rust and grime. Step 4: Refine the Metallic Layers Now, switch to your size 0 brush for more detailed work. Continue building highlights using Neutral Grey but add small amounts of Ice Yellow with each layer. Increase the amount of Ice Yellow in each highlight as you progress, eventually reaching pure Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights. Add a final touch of white if you want to push the contrast further. Be cautious not to overblend; the strength of this technique lies in the visible transitions between layers, adding texture and a rough, battle-worn appearance. Step 5: Create Verdigris on Copper Sections For the copper elements, begin with Doombull Brown as your base colour. Hold the model under a light to identify the highlight areas. Thin Doombull Brown and apply it to the copper parts of the model. Mix Bugman’s Glow with Doombull Brown for the next layer, applying this mix to the raised areas of the copper. Progressively add Ice Yellow to Bugman’s Glow for further highlights, working up to nearly pure Ice Yellow. If your copper starts looking too pale, glaze over with a watered-down layer of Doombull Brown to restore some warmth. Step 6: Add Verdigris Weathering To achieve a verdigris effect, mix Vallejo Ice Yellow and Warpstone Glow with water (about 3:1 ratio of water to paint). Apply this to recesses and areas where the copper would naturally oxidise. Focus on the joints and edges of the copper parts. As the glaze dries, it will create a subtle verdigris patina, enhancing the aged look of the model. Step 7: Apply Rusty Shadows and Dark Glazes To deepen the shadows on the armour, mix Rhinox Hide with Abaddon Black, thinning it with water (4:1 water to paint). Use this glaze to darken recesses and areas where rust would gather, particularly around the joints and lower sections. Glaze carefully to avoid losing the texture created by earlier stippling. Stay away from the brightest highlights to maintain the contrast. Step 8: Add a Pop of Colour – Warpstone Glow Lens For small details like lenses, start by applying Warpstone Glow to the lens, followed by a highlight of Moot Green. Finish with a small dot of Flash Gitz Yellow in the upper corner of the lens for a specular highlight. Ensure the lens stands out from the grimy armour to give the model a bit of Skaven flare. This stage of painting the Skaven Arch-Warlock gives you a quick and effective tabletop-ready look, perfect for gaming or as a base for further refinement. The grimy, weathered appearance suits the Skaven’s lore, while the stippling and dry brushing techniques create a realistic metallic effect without needing an airbrush. In the next part, we’ll continue with other details such as the weapon, robe, and tail. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Freehand Spider Gem

In this video tutorial and step by step guide, I’ll walk through how to paint a freehand spider gem on a round section of a backpack. The goal is to create a smooth, detailed finish using the right colours, applying stippling and glazing techniques, and ensuring sharp, clean lines in the freehand design. Video: How to Paint a Freehand Spider Gem Materials Needed: Vallejo Game Color Turquoise Vallejo Model Color Black P3 Morrow White Cyber Green (optional) Fine Detail Brush (I used Artis Opus Size 00) Wet Palette Thin Sandpaper or a file (for smoothing any rough textures) Kitchen Roll (for cleaning your brush) Step 1: Prepare the Base Mix the Base Colour: Begin by mixing Vallejo Game Color Turquoise with a small amount of Vallejo Model Color Black. The mix should be slightly darker than pure Turquoise but not overwhelmingly dark. Apply the Base Coat: Paint the entire round section with this base mix. Ensure an even coverage and let it dry completely. Adjust the Colour: If the initial base appears too dark or too light, adjust by adding more Turquoise or Black until you achieve the desired shade. This layer will be the foundation for the freehand spider. Step 2: Freehand the Spider Rough Outline: Start by lightly sketching the spider shape onto the base layer using a thinned version of the base colour. This is just to block in the general shape and position, so don’t worry about precision at this stage. Refine the Outline: Once the rough sketch is in place, begin refining the edges using P3 Morrow White mixed with Turquoise (add more white to the mix as needed). This mix should be lighter than the base colour but not too stark. Sharpen the edges to define the spider’s legs and body clearly. Symmetry Consideration: It’s difficult to achieve perfect symmetry, especially with freehand work. Consider making the spider asymmetrical to avoid the stress of perfect alignment. Small variances will make the design look more natural. Step 3: Add Highlights and Shading Stippling Technique: Use a stippling technique to gradually build up highlights. Dip your fine detail brush into the lighter mix (Turquoise + more white), and apply tiny, controlled dots across the spider and the background gem surface. Start with lighter pressure to achieve smaller dots. Transition Shading: For the edges of the spider, use a mix with slightly more white added to the Turquoise. Gradually build up the brightness by adding more stipples. Focus on the areas where the light would naturally hit, such as the top of the spider’s legs and body. Soft Shading: Introduce a small amount of Cyber Green into the stippling process for added depth and interest. Use this sparingly to avoid overpowering the original colour scheme. Step 4: Glazing for Smoothness Thin Glaze: Mix a very thin glaze using the base colour or slightly lighter mix. Apply this glaze over the entire spider and gem area to soften the stippling effect and blend the highlights smoothly. Be careful not to obscure the details you’ve painstakingly created. Glazing the Spider: If desired, add a final glaze of Cyber Green over the spider to enhance the depth and give a slight variation to the shine. Ensure the glaze is very thin, so it doesn’t overpower the design. Step 5: Final Touches and Edging Edge Highlighting: Use the side of your brush and apply a very fine line of the lightest mix (nearly white) to the edges of the round gem to create a sharp, defined boundary. This step will make the gem pop visually. Enhance the Spider Details: Add small highlights to the spider’s legs and body with a fine tip brush using the lightest mix. This will give the spider a more three-dimensional appearance. Check for Consistency: Review the entire section for any inconsistencies in stippling or shading. Add additional stipples or glazes as needed to ensure a smooth, cohesive finish. Step 6: Finishing Up Smooth Any Imperfections: If there are any rough spots or texture issues, gently sand them with fine sandpaper or a file. Final Inspection: Take photos or view the model under different lighting to check for any imperfections. Make any last adjustments to ensure the spider gem looks polished and consistent. Seal the Work: Once you’re satisfied with the result, consider applying a thin layer of matte or satin varnish to protect your work. Now move on to the next step! Spider Web and Gems on the Jump Pack Moving on from the above tutorial to include freehand spider web designs, volumetric highlights, and painting red gems with horizon lines. Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Autarch Armour, Sash and Weapon

In this How to Paint Autarch Armour, Sash and Weapon guide, we’ll dive into the painting process for an Aeldari Autarch, focusing on the armour, sash, and gold elements on the gun. This is part of an ongoing series where I’ve been working on this model, refining techniques to prepare it for competition. Below is a detailed step-by-step guide to help you achieve a similar level of detail and finish For all the Aeldari Autarch videos so far, follow this link: Aeldari Autarch (Eldritch Omens) A series of videos on how I painted my Aeldari Autarch (Eldritch Omens). This includes the pearlescent NMM armour, the soulstones, sword and Death Spinner(s). Watch Now Video: How to Paint Autarch Armour, Sash and Weapon Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Khorne Red, Wazdakka Red, Pink Horror Vallejo: Turquoise (Game Colour), Ice Yellow, Black P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 00 brush (for fine details) Synthetic mixing brush (to avoid shedding hairs) Size 0 or larger brushes for broader areas Step 1: How to Paint Autarch Armour Base We’ll start by focusing on the armour of the Autarch. The base colour I’m using is Vallejo Game Colour Turquoise. This is an older paint, but any similar turquoise shade will work. Begin by mixing the turquoise with some black to darken it slightly. Apply this mix as the base coat across the armour. “I went in with the flat turquoise colour and mapped out some of the highlight positions… the only highlight that you can map with assistance is the primary light source highlight.” Blocking in Highlights: Once the base coat is dry, start mapping out the primary highlights using the pure turquoise. Focus on areas where light naturally hits the model, such as the tops of the knees and the edges of the shoulder pads. Remember to hold the model under a lamp to check where the light falls. Highlight Transitions: To create smooth transitions, mix the turquoise with P3 Morrow White, creating several intermediate shades. Start layering these progressively lighter shades onto the armour, focusing on the primary highlights and then adding secondary and environmental reflections. “To get this super smooth kind of transition, more is kind of better… it makes it easier to layer them up just so that there’s not a big jump between each highlight layer.” Step 2: Refining Armour Highlights As you build up the highlights, pay attention to the contrast between light and dark areas. This contrast helps create a sense of depth and realism on the model. Adjusting Light Sources: Continue refining the primary highlights, ensuring that they are the brightest points on the armour. Secondary highlights should be slightly darker to maintain the illusion of directional light. “All the primary light sources should be consistent on the model… then you put all the secondary and other light sources just a bit darker.” Stippling Technique: For the most refined areas, such as the knees and shoulders, use a stippling technique with very fine brush control. This creates a texture that mimics light reflecting off a glossy surface, adding to the realism. “It just gives a nice sort of texture variation and it also again separates the cloth material out from the armour material.” Step 3: Painting the Sash Next, we’ll work on the sash, which presents its own challenges due to its position on the model. The colours I’ve used for the sash start with a base of Khorne Red, followed by Wazdakka Red, and then Pink Horror, progressively adding P3 Morrow White for the highlights. “I based them roughly off of the colours for the gems… starting off with Khorne Red, then Wazdakka Red, then Pink Horror, then adding more P3 Morrow White.” Highlight Placement: Start by applying the base of Khorne Red, then work up through Wazdakka Red and Pink Horror, focusing on the raised areas and where light would naturally fall. The sash around the waist and between the legs requires careful brush control due to the tight spaces. “The tricky area to paint is between the legs… I’ve used my size 00 brush for painting in here just because it gives me a little bit more breathing room for the brush marks.” Blending Technique: Use fine, parallel brush strokes to create smooth transitions between the shadows and highlights. Turning the model upside down can help you access hard-to-reach areas and maintain consistent brush strokes. “You’re going from a darker to a lighter colour each time, always painting towards the highest highlight point.” Step 4: Non-Metallic Gold Elements Finally, we’ll tackle the non-metallic gold (NMM) elements on the gun. For this, I’ve used a combination of Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and Rhinox Hide. “The colours you should be pretty familiar with for the non-metallic gold are Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Balor Brown, Ice Yellow, and then additional mixes depending on what you need.” Mapping the Highlights: Start by covering the areas in Mournfang Brown. Then, using XV-88, map out where the highlights will go, focusing on the edges and areas where light would naturally catch. Building the Gold Effect: Gradually layer up to Balor Brown and Ice Yellow, adding more white to the mix for the brightest highlights. Keep the transitions smooth by carefully blending the edges of each layer. “All you’re doing is just going through the layers… you just want a smooth finish because it makes the look of the material different to the other parts on the model.” Adding Depth with Shadows: Use Rhinox Hide to darken the recesses and add shadow lines between the highlights. This contrast is essential for making the NMM effect pop. “You’re just going to be going over and over some of these lines until you get it exactly right… it’s brush control and precision work.” Final Tips and Touch-Ups After completing the main areas, take some time to review the model and make any necessary touch-ups. Pay close attention to the transitions and ensure that all highlights are consistent and well-blended. Further Tips: Lighting and Photos: Use a lamp to check your highlights and take photos to spot areas that might need refining. Reviewing your work from different angles will help catch any inconsistencies. Brush Control: Practice fine motor control with a magnifying headset if needed. The more you practice, the easier it will become to achieve smooth, consistent stippling and fine detail work. “The more you do it, the better at it you get… and indeed people win Slayer Swords just using this technique.” Stay Tuned for More This is just one step in completing the Aeldari Autarch. Next, I’ll be working on the cloak and warp jump generator, adding some freehand details to really make the model stand out. I hope you found this guide helpful—thank you for following along! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Castellax from the Mechanicum Battle Force Box

This video guide and full instructions will walk you how to paint a Castellax model from the Mechanicum Battle Force box set. The goal is to achieve a high-quality tabletop standard using quick, repeatable techniques—no airbrush required! The process focuses on achieving a grimy, weathered look that complements a Death Guard army. Video – How to Paint a Castellax from the Mechanicum Battle Force Box Paints and Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Contrast Medium, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green, Warpstone Glow, Moot Green, Flash Gitz Yellow Vallejo: Model Colour Black Scalecolour: Necro Gold Pro Acryl: Light Bronze Metallic P3: Morrow White Brushes: Artis Opus Size 4 (Worn-out brush for stippling) Artis Opus Size 3M (Shorter bristle brush for dry brushing) Size 0 brush (for detailing) Size 00 brush (for fine details) A piece of dense foam (for sponge chipping) Step 1: Preparation Begin by assembling the model, leaving the legs separate from the torso to make painting easier. This is a common technique to manage sub-assemblies, allowing easier access to harder-to-reach areas and making the model more manageable to hold. All I’ve done there is put some sprue glue and I’d left that to dry so I hadn’t sanded that down perfectly smooth here because the shoulder pad’s coming two parts and you can clearly see how one part connects to the other, but they are glued onto the model at the moment. While it’s possible to leave the shoulder pads off to make painting easier, it’s up to personal preference. Some may find that too many sub-assemblies can result in scattered parts and unfinished projects. If you do decide to leave them off, it will make painting these parts slightly easier, especially when it comes to avoiding overspill. Step 2: Base Coat Prime the model with a black base coat using Vallejo Model Colour Black. This forms a solid foundation for the metallic and armour colours, ensuring good coverage and depth in subsequent layers. “The first thing we’re doing is using some scale colour necro gold… I haven’t really watered it down too much… you want it reasonably runny but not too runny.” Ensure the base coat is smooth and even, as this will help the metallics and other layers adhere better and produce a cleaner finish. Step 3: Metallic Base Use Scalecolour Necro Gold to cover all metal areas of the model. Apply this using a stippling technique with a worn-out Artis Opus Size 4 brush. The goal here is to create a textured, weathered look on the metallic areas. Be cautious with the thickness of the paint to avoid unwanted texture buildup, as you only want the paint to create a visual texture, not a physical one. “You’re just doing that all over all the metal areas on the model… be careful of physical texture buildup… the only texture you want really on the model is painting texture, not three-dimensional thick paint texture.” Next, use Pro Acryl Light Bronze Metallic to highlight raised areas. Focus on prominent features like the dome of the head, flamer nozzles, and the edges of the armour. Switch to a Size 3M Artis Opus brush for more control, as its shorter bristles help achieve a smooth application with this dry brushing technique. “This is a little bit thinner than the Necro Gold and the idea with this is you’re doing a very similar kind of process with it… don’t go too crazy with the light bronze because it is a very light colour; it almost looks silver when you apply it.” Step 4: Clean Up Once the metallics are dry, use Vallejo Model Colour Black to go back over any areas where metallic paint has spilled onto the armour panels. This clean-up step is crucial for keeping the final look neat and avoiding metallic flakes showing through when painting the armour colours. “When I was painting the metal I didn’t care where the paint got onto armour panels… it makes the process much quicker, and you don’t have to worry… just keeps everything looking neat.” Take your time with this step to ensure all overspill is covered, particularly in recesses and around edges where the metallics might have spread. Step 5: Armour Panels Start by applying Games Workshop Balor Brown, thinned with water in a 1:1 ratio. Stipple this over all armour panels using the Size 3M brush. This technique creates a textured, weathered effect that forms the base layer for the armour. “You’re basically covering all of the armour panels with that stippling effect… a large brush makes it hard to paint in some of these recess areas without getting the paint onto the metal.” Next, apply Games Workshop Morghast Bone in the same manner, focusing on the curves and raised areas of the armour. The goal here is to start building up lighter areas, enhancing the depth and contrast on the model. “You want the area to look darker in the recesses anyway… making sort of like a very soft light volume onto the armour.” Finally, highlight the most prominent areas with Screaming Skull. As you progress to lighter colours, apply the paint more carefully, focusing on areas where light naturally hits the model, such as the tops of the shoulder pads, the chest, and the front-facing parts of the armour. “We’re trying to get those highlight positions and be a little bit more accurate with it… you want to rotate the brush around a little bit and you also want to make sure that when you dab the brush onto the model you have it straight on.” Remember to dab off any excess paint on kitchen roll before applying it to the model to avoid blobs or streaks. Step 6: Applying Wash Mix Darkoath Flesh Contrast with Contrast Medium in a 1:1 ratio. Apply this wash over the entire model, covering both the armour and metallic areas. This step is essential for toning down the highlights, blending the colours, and adding a grimy effect that suits the model’s aesthetic. “If you use water, you will actually destroy the effect the way that the contrast paint works… it will give a very smooth, clean finish all over.” Be mindful of pooling, especially in recesses. Use a clean brush to wick away any excess wash from these areas to maintain the model’s detail. Contrast paint is slightly thick, so if you have a big pool of contrast paint, it will dry and it will just start to kind of gloss over some of the details. Step 7: Decals and Further Weathering If using decals, apply them at this stage. Use Micro Set to position them and ensure they blend seamlessly with the surface. For a more integrated look, consider applying the decals before the Darkoath Flesh wash so that they naturally blend into the model’s finish. After the decals are in place, stipple Morghast Bone along their edges to simulate chipping and wear, especially around the corners and where the decals might receive the most damage. Finally, apply another layer of the Darkoath Flesh wash over the decals to blend them further and reduce the starkness of the decal’s edges. Step 8: Sponge Chipping Thin Games Workshop Rhinox Hide with water in a 1:1 ratio. Use a piece of dense foam (such as that from old Warhammer clamshell packs) to sponge this onto the edges and areas likely to receive wear and tear. Focus on creating an irregular, natural pattern, with more chipping towards the front and the edges of the armour. “You want to pay attention to the position of the weathering… it’s very easy to rub an edge against something, whereas the flat surface is less likely to get any damage.” Before applying, dab the sponge on kitchen roll to remove excess paint. This prevents the foam from dumping too much paint onto the model, which could create an unwanted texture buildup. “When you put the foam into the paint, you need to dab it off on some kitchen roll… you want to remove the excess paint.” Step 9: Detailing Using a Size 00 brush, paint fine scratches and streaks with Rhinox Hide. Place these near areas likely to see heavy use or impact, such as around weapons or sharp edges. This step adds realism and depth to the model by simulating wear and tear. For larger chips created during the sponge chipping, consider adding a highlight line with Morghast Bone on the lower edge of the chip to simulate light catching the edge of the flaked paint. “Picking out a few edges here and there… it makes it look like a chip and the light’s catching the flake of paint.” Run the side of your brush along the edges of the armour to create subtle highlights, but focus primarily on upward-facing edges where light would naturally hit. Step 10: Grimy Weathering For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model, Step 11: Further Grimy Weathering For added grime, especially around weapons and heavily used areas, use undiluted Darkoath Flesh. Apply this carefully, building up layers to simulate dirt, grease, and other battlefield detritus. Focus this application near the front of the model, particularly around the chainsaw blade hands, where the most action would occur. If desired, you can mix a bit of red into the Darkoath Flesh to create a fresher, bloodier effect, adding another layer of realism to the model’s grimy appearance. Step 12: Verdigris (Optional) To add a verdigris effect to the metal areas, mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green in a 50:50 ratio, then thin it heavily with water (4:1). Apply this wash into the recesses and areas where water might naturally collect, simulating the patina of aged copper. If you want to push the verdigris further, add a touch of white to the mix for the most extreme recesses, but be careful not to overdo it as it can make the effect too opaque. Step 13: Metallic Highlights Reapply the Light Bronze Metallic sparingly to the highest points of the metallic areas to restore some shine lost during the wash step. This should be done with a very fine brush and thinned paint (2:1 water to paint) to maintain control and avoid overpowering the subtle weathering. Step 14: Lenses (Optional) For the lenses, start with Warpstone Glow, then layer Moot Green, followed by a final highlight with Flash Gitz Yellow. This creates a gradient effect that mimics light shining through the lens. “This makes it slightly less shiny… it just depends on how you want to do it; I just like the way this looks personally.” Finish by adding a small white dot in the top left corner of each lens for a reflective effect, bringing the lenses to life and adding a focal point to the model. Final Touches and Further Tips As you finish your Castellax, take a moment to review your work and touch up any areas that may need it. Focus on ensuring your highlights are consistent, your grime looks natural, and that the overall effect is cohesive and fitting with the rest of your army. Further Tips: Patience with Stippling: When stippling, less is often more. Build up your layers gradually and step back occasionally to check the overall effect. This prevents overworking the model and keeps the texture subtle and realistic. Experiment with Washes: The mix of Contrast Medium with Darkoath Flesh can be adjusted to suit your preference. A thicker wash will give a grimier look, while a thinner wash will maintain more of the underlying colour. Don’t be afraid to experiment on a test model or a hidden part of the figure. Edge Highlighting: For a clean and professional finish, take your time with edge highlighting. While it may seem tedious, careful edge highlighting can significantly enhance the depth and definition of your model, making it stand out on the tabletop. Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon

Welcome to my guide on how to paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon from the Hive Secundus box set. This video tutorial along with step-by-step guide will help you achieve a high tabletop standard, with lots of the techniques interchangeable for your other models’ weapons, too! Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Materials and Paints Needed Paints Games Workshop: Incubi Darkness Daemonette Hide Abaddon Black P3: Morrow White Vallejo: Model Colour Black Brushes Artist Opus Size 1 brush Artist Opus Size 00 brush Other Tools Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed) Wet palette Preparation Weapon Removal: If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier. How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Base Colour Incubi Darkness: Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading. Highlighting Daemonette Hide: Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light. For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition. For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth. Blending Highlights Incubi Darkness: Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights. For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish. Edge Highlights Daemonette Hide: Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon. Daemonette Hide and Morrow White: Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features. Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas. Painting the Number ‘2’ Base Colour Light Grey: Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon. If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish. Detailing the Number Vallejo Model Colour Black: Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work. If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges. Additional Details Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections Neutral Grey to White: For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights. Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish. Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look. Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Part Two Materials and Paints Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Detail brush for fine lines and highlights A larger brush for base coating Additional Tools: Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush. Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes) Preparing the Base Colour Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover. Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish. Building the NMM Gold Effect Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal. Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas. Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition. Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight. Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal. Adding Hazard Stripes Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up. Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out. Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension. Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition. Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes. Final Touches Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes. Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic. Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place. Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work. By following these steps, you’ll have a beautifully painted Van Saar Heavy Weapon that stands out on the tabletop. Enjoy the process and take your time to achieve the best results! More Van Saar Tutorials! How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips! Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set

In this tutorial we look at How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set, with a detailed video guide and step by step instruction and tips! Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus setPaints and Materials NeededStep by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set Base Colour ApplicationHighlightingDetailing with BlacksPainting the VisorEdge Highlights and Final TouchesVideo: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponMaterials and Paints NeededPaintsBrushesOther ToolsPreparationStep by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy WeaponBase ColourHighlightingBlending HighlightsEdge HighlightsPainting the Number ‘2’Base ColourDetailing the NumberAdditional DetailsNon-Metallic Metal (NMM) SectionsVideo : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Materials and Paints Needed:Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes)Preparing the Base ColourBuilding the NMM Gold EffectAdding Hazard StripesFinal Touches Video Part One: How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set The techniques and steps covered should help you achieve a high-quality finish on the armour panels and visor. Paints and Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Dark Reaper, Sybarite Green, Abaddon Black, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Model Colour Black Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 1 Artis Opus Size 0 Artis Opus Additional Tools: Wet palette Lamp for lighting guidance Step by Step : How to Paint a Van Saar Heavy from the Necromunda Hive Secundus set Base Colour Application Base Colour: Start by applying Dark Reaper as the base colour. This colour should cover all the armour panels. Tip: Use a wet palette to keep your paints fresh and to mix colours easily. Highlighting First Highlight Mix: Create a 50/50 mix of Dark Reaper and Sybarite Green. Apply this mix to the raised areas of the armour, focusing on where the light naturally hits. Paint towards the highlight points to ensure the finish is opaque and the colours are strong. Second Highlight: Use pure Sybarite Green for the next layer. Apply this in smaller areas within the previously highlighted sections. For best results, use the lamp as a rough guide for light placement. Final Highlight: Mix Sybarite Green with P3 Morrow White to achieve the final highlight colour. Apply this sparingly to the highest points of the armour. Ensure the transitions between layers are smooth. If necessary, go back with the darker mix to blend the steps. Detailing with Blacks Glazing Shadows: Use Abaddon Black to glaze shadows and enhance depth. This paint is slightly satin and has less coverage, making it ideal for subtle shading. Apply it to the chest panel and other large armour sections where you want the darkest areas. Rubber Effect: For a stronger black mark, use Vallejo Model Colour Black. This paint is more opaque and covers better, perfect for small details and corrections. Painting the Visor Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown to the visor as a base. This will help establish a rich, warm undertone. Highlighting the Visor: Use the following sequence for the visor highlights: Mix Mournfang Brown with Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow (50/50) and apply. Pure Dark Sun Yellow for the next layer. Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White for the final highlight. Adding Contrast: To enhance the visor’s shine, add a touch of Rhinox Hide to the upper highlight areas. This creates a quick transition to a nearly white highlight for a shiny effect. Edge Highlights and Final Touches Edge Highlights: Use the highlight mixes to edge highlight the armour panels. Keep the lines sharp and neat, cutting into them with the darker base colours if needed. Blending: Go back and forth between the highlight and base colours to blend any visible transitions. For small, detailed areas, use the tip of the brush and work slowly. Additional Reflections: Add subtle reflections to the visor and armour panels for a more realistic effect. Use Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to darken areas as needed, enhancing the 3D effect. Video: How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Learn how to apply a smooth base coat using Incubi Darkness and create striking highlights with Daemonette Hide. We cover mastering blending techniques for seamless transitions and edge highlighting for sharp, clean details. Additionally, you’ll learn how to freehand the number ‘2’ for a personalised touch and paint non-metallic metal (NMM) sections for realistic metal effects. Materials and Paints Needed Paints Games Workshop: Incubi Darkness Daemonette Hide Abaddon Black P3: Morrow White Vallejo: Model Colour Black Brushes Artist Opus Size 1 brush Artist Opus Size 00 brush Other Tools Scalpel or hobby knife (for cutting the weapon if needed) Wet palette Preparation Weapon Removal: If the weapon is already attached, carefully cut it off using a scalpel or hobby knife before painting. This makes painting the back of the weapon and armour panels easier. Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon Base Colour Incubi Darkness: Apply Incubi Darkness as the base colour for the weapon. This dark colour provides a good foundation for highlights and shading. Highlighting Daemonette Hide: Use Daemonette Hide for the first stage of highlighting. Apply it to the curved and flat surfaces of the gun, focusing on the areas that will catch the most light. For curved sections, take the highlight down further to create a smooth transition. For flat sections, add a light-dark-light modulation to create interest and depth. Blending Highlights Incubi Darkness: Thin Incubi Darkness to a 50/50 paint-to-water ratio for initial blending. Apply this over the transition points to smooth out the highlights. For final blending, thin Incubi Darkness further (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and glaze over the highlights to achieve a smooth finish. Edge Highlights Daemonette Hide: Edge highlight the entire weapon with Daemonette Hide. This step sharpens the edges and gives definition to the weapon. Daemonette Hide and Morrow White: Mix Daemonette Hide with Morrow White for a second stage of highlighting. Apply this mix to the upper edges and prominent features. Continue adding white to the mix for successive highlights, but avoid taking any highlights up to pure white to maintain contrast with non-metallic areas. Painting the Number ‘2’ Base Colour Light Grey: Use a light grey mix (lighter than neutral grey) for the number ‘2’. This base colour should be off-white to avoid competing with the highlights on the weapon. If the paint has dried and been rehydrated multiple times, consider mixing fresh paint to ensure a clean, opaque finish. Detailing the Number Vallejo Model Colour Black: Use black paint to tidy up the edges and refine the shape of the number ‘2’. This will create sharp, clean lines and enhance the appearance of the freehand work. If needed, go back and forth between the grey and black to perfect the edges. Additional Details Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Sections Neutral Grey to White: For non-metallic metal parts, start with a mid-grey base and progressively add white for highlights. Focus on creating strong light transitions and edge highlights to simulate a metallic finish. Add a final white dot highlight on the sharpest edges for a polished look. Video : How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes) Materials and Paints Needed: Paints: Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Detail brush for fine lines and highlights A larger brush for base coating Additional Tools: Wet palette to keep your paints moist and workable Scalpel for tidying up any imperfections Kitchen roll or tissue for removing excess paint from the brush. Step by Step – How to Paint the Van Saar Heavy Weapon (Gold and Hazard Stripes) Preparing the Base Colour Mixing the Base Colour: Begin by creating a 50/50 mix of Mournfang Brown and Dark Sun Yellow. This mix serves as the base colour for the NMM gold effect on the flamer cover. Applying the Base Colour: Apply the mixture in two to three thin coats to achieve an even, opaque layer. Ensure the paint is thinned slightly to avoid texture build-up, which can cause a lumpy finish. If the paint still feels thick, consider switching to a different yellow, such as Balor Brown, for a smoother finish. Building the NMM Gold Effect Highlighting with Dark Sun Yellow: Once the base colour is dry, use Dark Sun Yellow on its own to add highlights. Focus on the curved areas of the flamer cover, especially the top curve where the three circles are located. These areas should have the most intense highlights to mimic light catching on the metal. Creating a Transition: Paint a line of Mournfang Brown straight through the middle of the highlighted area. This will serve as the midpoint of the transition between the dark and light areas. Blending the Transition: Carefully blend the Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown by using thin layers and controlled brush strokes. If needed, create intermediary shades by mixing Dark Sun Yellow with Mournfang Brown in varying ratios to help smooth the transition. Adding the Brightest Highlights: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with P3 Morrow White to create a lighter highlight. Apply this to the top curve of the flamer cover, just above the three circles, where the light would be most intense. You can also use Vallejo Ice Yellow or Dawn Yellow if you prefer a pre-mixed highlight. Final Highlights with Pure White: For the final highlight, use P3 Morrow White directly on the brightest parts of the flamer cover, such as the top curve. This will enhance the NMM effect, making these areas appear as the shiniest and most reflective parts of the metal. Adding Hazard Stripes Base Colour for Hazard Stripes: Cover the entire cable with a solid layer of Dark Sun Yellow. Apply multiple thin coats to achieve an even coverage, avoiding any lumps or texture build-up. Marking the Hazard Stripes: Use a fine detail brush and thinned black paint (Abaddon Black is suitable) to paint the hazard stripes. Start from the bottom of the cable and work upwards, being mindful of the curvature. As the cable curves, adjust the spacing of the stripes to account for the distortion of the material—stripes on the inner curve will be closer together, while those on the outer curve will be more spaced out. Highlighting the Hazard Stripes: Once the black stripes are in place, mix grey by adding white to black for the black stripes’ highlights. For the yellow stripes, use the Dark Sun Yellow mixed with P3 Morrow White to create highlights. Apply these highlights along the edges of the stripes to give them dimension. Smoothing the Highlights: If your highlights appear too stark, soften them by glazing. Create a glaze by thinning down Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide with water (approximately 4 parts water to 1 part paint). Lightly apply the glaze to the areas where the highlights meet the base colour, building up the layers gradually until you achieve a smooth transition. Refining the Hazard Stripes: Use a combination of stippling, glazing, and careful brush strokes to refine the hazard stripes, ensuring they look crisp and well-blended. If necessary, go back and touch up any areas where the black and yellow meet, using the original colours to clean up any mistakes. Final Touches Glazing the Connecting Points: To add depth to the connecting points of the cable, apply a glaze of Mournfang Brown, followed by a glaze of Rhinox Hide. Start a few millimetres away from the connection and glaze towards it, building up the intensity near the connection. This will create a smooth gradient and enhance the overall appearance of the hazard stripes. Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic. Final Assembly: Attach any additional pieces, such as the weapon or other parts, if not already in place. Sealing: Apply a matte varnish to protect your work. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Assemble the Clawlord on Gnawbeast from Skaventide

Welcome to my step-by-step video and guide for how to assemble the Clawlord on Gnawbeast from Skaventide. This guide will take you through the process of building, cleaning, and preparing your model to a high standard, suitable for both army painting and display level. Video: How to Assemble the Clawlord on Gnawbeast from Skaventide Tools and Materials Required: Clawlord on Gnawbeast from Skaventide model kit Scalpel or hobby knife Tamiya Extra Thin Cement (Note: make sure you use this in a well-ventilated space) Sprue Goo Sprue (excess plastic from the model) Sandpaper or sanding sticks How to Assemble the Clawlord on Gnawbeast from Skaventide – Step-by-Step Instructions: Step 1: Preparing the Pieces Unbox and Inspect: Start by unboxing your Clawlord on Gnawbeast model. Inspect all pieces to ensure nothing is missing or damaged.Cutting from Sprue: Using a scalpel, carefully cut each piece from the sprue. Cut towards yourself for better control, but be cautious to avoid injury. The scalpel should be sharp, requiring only light pressure to make clean cuts. Step 2: Cleaning the Pieces Remove Nubs: After cutting the pieces from the sprue, remove any leftover nubs. Use the scalpel to trim them off smoothly.Mold Line Removal: Check each piece for mold lines and gently scrape them off with the scalpel. For better control, hold the piece firmly and scrape along the line until it’s smooth. Step 3: Assembling the Model Dry Fit: Before gluing, dry fit the pieces together to understand how they connect. This helps identify potential gaps and ensures a precise fit.Cutting Push Fit Rods: For a cleaner assembly, cut off all the push fit rods from the model pieces. This allows the parts to butt together neatly without leaving gaps,Gluing: Apply Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to the edges of the pieces where they will join. The glue’s capillary action will pull it into the seams, creating a strong bond.Joining: Press the parts together carefully. The extra thin cement will quickly bond the pieces, so ensure they are aligned correctly. Step 4: Filling Gaps Make Sprue Goo: Create a gap-filling material called “sprue goo” by dissolving sprue pieces in Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. This mixture should be thick and left overnight to achieve the right consistency.Applying Sprue Goo: Use a brush to apply the sprue goo to any visible gaps or join lines. Be generous, as it will shrink slightly as it dries.Smoothing: Use a separate brush dipped in Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to smooth out the sprue goo. This helps it blend seamlessly into the model surface. Step 5: Final Touches Drying Time: Allow the glued and filled model to dry overnight. This ensures all bonds and fills are fully set.Sanding: Once dry, use sandpaper or sanding sticks to smooth any rough areas, particularly where sprue goo was applied. This step is crucial for a professional finish.Subassemblies: If painting in subassemblies, decide which parts need to be separate for easier access. Typically, arms, weapons, and detailed sections can be left off and painted separately. Step 6: Painting Preparation Inspection: Inspect the entire model for any missed mold lines, gaps, or rough spots. Address these issues before priming and painting.Priming: Once satisfied with the assembly, prime the model with a suitable primer to prepare for painting. About the Clawlord on Gnawbeast As rulers of the Clans Verminus, Clawlords command the vast tides of Skaven soldiery that form the bulk of the Great Horned Rat’s armies. They have earned their positions through copious amounts of violence and a knack for scheming. Displaying far more valour and skill than typical Skaven, some Clawlords earn the privilege of riding into battle atop horrifying Gnaw-beasts. These mutated vermin have hyperactive metabolisms that force them into constant feeding frenzies, making them fearsome mounts in battle. Learn how to paint the Clawlord on Gnawbeast How to Paint a Clawlord on Gnawbeast In these videos, we delve into how to expertly apply base coats, create dynamic highlights, and achieve stunning texture effects on the the Clawlord on Gnawbeast from the Skaventide box set. Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Clawlord on Gnawbeast from Skaventide

Welcome to my latest video, ‘How to paint a Clawlord on Gnawbeast” in which we continue our journey with the Skaven characters from the Skaventide box set, focusing on the Claw Lord on Gnaw-Beast. This guide will detail the steps, techniques, and specific paints used to achieve a high-standard tabletop miniature. All paints and materials are listed below the video, plus simple step-by-step instructions. Video Part One – How to Paint a Clawlord on Gnawbeast – Clawlord Paints and materials needed Paints: Games Workshop: Evil Sunz Scarlet, Barak Nar Burgundy, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Moot Green, Yriel Yellow, Morghast Bone Vallejo: Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 00 Artis Opus brush Primer: Black primer Airbrush (optional for base coating) Step-by-Step Guide on How to Paint a Clawlord on Gnawbeast Preparation and Priming Prime the Model: Start by priming your Claw Lord on Gnaw-Beast with a black primer. Ensure even coverage across the entire model. Base Coats Base Coat with Airbrush: Apply a coat of Rhinox Hide over the entire model. Follow with Balor Brown in selected areas. Finally, spray XV-88 on the focal points such as the head, knees, thighs, shoulders, and the hand holding the spear. This step helps lighten these areas for easier detail painting later. Painting the Armour Red Armour: Start with Evil Sunz Scarlet for the base coat on the red armor sections. Highlight progressively by mixing Ice Yellow with Evil Sunz Scarlet, increasing the amount of Ice Yellow with each layer to create a warm pink highlight. If you prefer a cooler pink, substitute Ice Yellow with white. For a more vibrant red, over-highlight with the lighter mix and then glaze back with the darker red to deepen the colour. Rivets and Details: Initially, paint the rivets red like the armour. Optionally, you can return later to add verdigris or additional contrast paint to make them stand out more. Texture and Highlights Scratchy Method for Highlights: Using a size 00 Artis Opus brush, mix your paint to a 50/50 ratio of water to paint. This consistency allows for precise lines without being too translucent. Apply the paint using the very tip of the brush in a scratchy motion to create texture. Ensure the consistency is right to avoid overly soft or translucent lines. Eyes Painting the Eyes: Base the eyes with black paint. Paint a large section of the eye with Moot Green, leaving a small black outline. Add a white dot near the top of the pupil and a small highlight of Yriel Yellow in the bottom right to give the eyes depth and vibrancy. Horns and Teeth Horns: Base coat the horns with Balor Brown. Highlight with Morghast Bone followed by Ice Yellow. For final highlights, add dots of white to the most prominent raised areas. Teeth: Similar to the horns, base with Balor Brown. Highlight the top of each tooth with Morghast Bone and finish with white. Fur Painting the Fur: Base the fur with a mix of Rhinox Hide and white, creating a grey tone. Add more white to the mix for successive highlights, aiming for an off-white final highlight. Paint the fur texture using a similar technique to the scratchy method, applying fur lines with a 50/50 paint mixture, pulling the brush towards yourself for better control. Adjustments Additional Highlights and Adjustments: Reassess the model and add any final touches to ensure all details are highlighted appropriately. Consider glazing over areas where highlights might have dulled the base colour too much. Optionally, use a contrast paint to enhance the red armour further and give it a satin finish for added vibrancy. Video Part Two – How to Paint a Clawlord on Gnawbeast – Gnawbeast Materials and paints needed Paints Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide XV-88 Balor Brown Moot Green Yriel Yellow Bugmans Glow Cadian Fleshtone Sotek Green Sybarite Green Khorne Red Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Vallejo: Ice Yellow Model Colour Black P3: Morrow White Brushes Size 1 Artist Opus brush Size 00 Artist Opus brush(I use Artist Opus, but any high-quality brush will do!) Painting the Metal Trim Base Colour: Apply Dark Sun Yellow (Two Thin Coats) to the metal trim. You can use Balor Brown as an alternative. Highlighting: Mix Dark Sun Yellow with Morrow White for the highlights. Gradually add more white for brighter highlights. Use a size 00 brush to paint fine scratches and texture on the metal. Adding Verdigris: Mix Sybarite Green with Sotek Green (50/50). Apply this mixture to the recesses and darker areas of the metal trim. Add white to the mix for brighter highlights and apply sparingly to avoid overdoing it. Painting the Skin Base Colour: Apply Bugmans Glow as the base colour. Highlight using Cadian Fleshtone. Mix with white for brighter highlights. Highlighting: Focus on smoother transitions compared to the metal. Add small amounts of white to Bugmans Glow or Cadian Fleshtone for progressive highlights. Shading: Use Rhinox Hide to deepen shadows and enhance contrast where necessary. Painting the Fur Base Colour: Use Rhinox Hide as the base colour for the fur near the skin. Progressively darken towards the tips using black. Highlighting: Apply Mournfang Brown for mid-tones. Highlight with a mix of Rhinox Hide and Morrow White to create lighter fur towards the top. Painting the Warpstone Base Colour: Start with Moot Green. Highlighting: Highlight using Yriel Yellow. For the brightest highlights, mix Yriel Yellow with Morrow White and apply to the sharp edges and facets. Painting the Teeth Base Colour: Use a combination of Cadian Fleshtone and Morrow White for the base of the teeth. Highlighting: Apply white highlights to the tips and edges for a shiny enamel look. Painting the Eyes Base Colour: Start with a base of black.Iris and Pupil: Paint the iris with Moot Green. Highlight the iris with Yriel Yellow, focusing on the lower part of the eye. Add a small white dot for the reflection. Finishing Touches Review and Adjustments: Revisit any areas that need more contrast or smoother transitions. Ensure the highlights and shadows are consistent and realistic. How to Build the Clawlord on Gnaw-Beast How to Build a Clawlord on Gnawbeast Want to make sure your Clawlord looks the best possible before you even start painting? Follow my step-by-step assembly video and guide. Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Grey Seer NMM and Verdigris

This is part 2 in a series for how to paint a Grey Seer from the Skaventide box that Games Workshop sent me. This video focuses on the metal sections of the staff, particularly the top symbol, and how to paint it in NMM and add verdigris. Video: How to paint a Grey Seer – NMM and Verdigris Paints Used Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Inverted Highlighting and Verdigris We’ll start by finishing the verdigris around the runes on the dagger. This involves inverted highlighting, where the darkest areas are actually the lightest. The mix for this is Sybarite Green and Sotek Green, with a touch of white added for the highlight layer. Remember this mix, as we’ll use it later on the staff and symbol. How to paint a Grey Seer Staff Base Colours: If you airbrushed the model with brown, you can use XV-88 as your starting point for highlights. For areas not covered by XV-88, use Mournfang Brown to blend the edges. Remember, the goal is a scratched, rough metal look, not a perfectly smooth finish. Highlighting: Start by mixing XV-88 with Dark Sun Yellow and apply it to the curves of the staff, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit. Gradually add more Dark Sun Yellow to your mix for subsequent highlights, building up the brightness. For the final highlights, use pure Dark Sun Yellow or Ice Yellow mixed with Dark Sun Yellow. Remember to paint the entire staff, including the back and sides, but focus the brightest highlights on the front. Adding Depth and Contrast: Use Rhinox Hide to darken areas and create contrast. Thin the Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for smoother blending. Don’t worry about being too precise with the scratches; they’ll add to the overall texture. Painting the Symbol Flat Surfaces: Painting NMM on flat surfaces can be tricky, but focus on edge highlights and texture. Use the same colors and techniques as for the staff, but pay attention to the light source and where the brightest highlights should be. Leave the sides of the symbol dark to enhance contrast. Verdigris: Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (50/50) and heavily water it down (70% water, 30% paint). Apply the verdigris to the recesses and darker areas of the symbol. Remember, this is for visual effect, not realism, so focus on what looks best. Additional Tips for How to Paint a Grey Seer Use a size 1 Artist Opus brush for the scratchy marks. Don’t worry about perfect transitions; the scratches will help blend the colours. Consider the overall lighting of your model and adjust highlight placement accordingly. For a more desaturated gold, add more white to your Dark Sun Yellow mixes. More videos on how to paint a Grey Seer! How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer! Watch Now How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGr [...]

How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer

In this video and step-by-step guide, I’ll walk you through the process of building and preparing a Grey Seer miniature for painting. We’ll cover everything from essential tools and materials to step-by-step assembly instructions, ensuring you achieve a flawless finish on your model. Video: How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by Step Gather Your Tools: You’ll need Godhand clippers (or similar), a scalpel, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, and sprue glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement mixed with plastic sprue bits).Clean Your Model: Carefully clip out all the model pieces. Use your scalpel to scrape away any mould lines, always angling the blade away from the direction you’re moving to avoid cutting into the model. Take your time with this step.Remove Push-Fit Connections: Even though the model is push-fit, I cut off the connection points to avoid gaps and make painting easier. This makes for a cleaner fit. Assembly: Dry Fit: Before gluing, dry fit the pieces together to make sure everything lines up correctly.Glue Main Body: Apply a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to the connection points and join the pieces together. Use gentle pressure to ensure a tight fit.Leave the Head: Don’t glue the head yet, as this will make painting easier. Gap Filling: Identify Gaps: Look for any gaps or seams in the model where the pieces join.Apply Sprue Glue: Carefully apply sprue glue to the gaps, being careful not to get any on areas you don’t want to fill. Use the tip of your scalpel to guide the glue and remove any excess.What’s Sprue Glue? Follow this link to learn more.Smooth Out: Once the sprue glue is dry, use a fine file or sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges.Your Grey Seer model is now ready for priming and painting! Additional Tips: Work in a well-ventilated area as the glues and paints can be toxic. If you accidentally get sprue glue somewhere you don’t want it, you can try to quickly remove it with extra thin cement. Take your time and don’t rush the process. The more care you take in the preparation stages, the better the final result will be. If you’re painting a whole army, consider cutting some corners to save time, but still aim for a neat and tidy finish. Now you’ve learnt How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer, why not get started painting him? How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer! Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint Abraxia

All of the video tutorials for how to paint Abraxia from the Slaves to Darkness army. We have how to paint her head, with tips on skin and horns, her cloak and the NMM (non-metallic-metal) armour on her fearsome mount! Scroll to the bottom for links to how to assemble the model, too. Video: How to Paint Abraxias HeadPaints UsedBrushesOther MaterialsHow to Paint Abraxias HeadVideo: How to Paint the Cloak for AbraxiaPaints UsedBrushesOther MaterialsHow to Paint the Cloak StepsVideo: How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour PanelMaterialsSteps to FollowHow to Build Abraxia! PDF and Video Guide! Video: How to Paint Abraxias Head Paints Used Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Mournfang Brown Balor Brown (Alternative to Tuskgor Fur) Evil Sunz Scarlet XV-88 Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Screaming Skull Vallejo: Model Colour Black Model Colour Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes Artis Opus: Series M or S, Size 00 (for details and glazing) Other Materials Sprue glue Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Wet palette Lamp (for highlighting) Blue Tac (for holding the miniature) How to Paint Abraxias Head Step 1: Prep Work and Eye Basecoat Forehead Conversion: If desired, remove the protruding spike and fill it in for a smoother look. Use sprue glue and a touch of Tamiya Extra Thin to blend it seamlessly. Eye Basecoat: For the whites of the eyes, use a light yellow colour like Citadel’s Ice Yellow. Avoid pure white, as it won’t make the white dot “pop” later. Eye Challenges: Note the sculpted dots on the eyes, intended for glowing demon eyes. We’ll work around these to create a more human look. Scars running through the lower eyes will be addressed throughout the painting process. Step 2: Skin Basecoat and Highlight Placement Skin Basecoat: Apply a generous coat of Mournfang Brown. Use a 1:1 ratio of paint to water for a smooth application. Over-Highlighting: Don’t just highlight the shiny spots under a lamp. Cover the majority of the head with Mournfang Brown to avoid high contrasts later. Light Direction: Consider the direction of the light source for your highlights. I’m working with a top-left angle, focusing highlights there but ensuring ample coverage on the right side as well. Step 3: Skin Highlights Highlight Colours: Use a mix of Mournfang Brown with a tiny bit of Tuskgor Fur (or Ushabti Bone if you find Tuskgor Fur too grainy), gradually increasing the amount of Tuskgor Fur for lighter highlights. Blending: Carefully blend the highlight colours together, using a size z00 Artis Opus brush with a tiny amount of paint. Glazing: After highlighting, use watered-down Mournfang Brown (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and Rhinox Hide for glazing. This will smooth the transitions and enhance the shadows. Step 4: Horns Horn Basecoat: Apply Mournfang Brown to the horns. Horn Highlight Colours: Use XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, and white to highlight the horns. Horn Gradient: Aim for a light-to-dark gradient, with the base of the horns being the lightest and the tips the darkest. You can achieve this through wet blending, applying the colours while the paint is still wet. Horn Texture: Use the tip of your brush to create a stippling or scratching effect for a textured look. Vary the strokes and avoid uniform patterns. Step 5: Eyes and Lips Eye Refinement: Gradually fill in the scars on the lower eyes with the same light yellow used for the basecoat. Be patient and build up the layers for a smooth finish. Pupil: Paint a small white dot in the centre of each eye. Aim for similar size and shape for both eyes. Lip Colour: Leave the upper lip black, but paint the lower lip with a mix of Evil Sunz Scarlet and white. Use the lightest mix for the brightest highlights. Lip Details: Carefully define the shape of the lips with black paint, adding a slight highlight to the ridge below the nose. Add tiny lines on the sides of the mouth for added expression. Step 6: Final Touches Makeup: Extend the black around the eyes to create a “tick” that goes up towards the temple on both sides. Refinement: Keep refining the highlights, shadows, and textures until you’re happy with the result. Video: How to Paint the Cloak for Abraxia Paints Used Games Workshop Paints: Khorne Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Barak-Nar BurgundyVallejo Paints: Old Rose, Ice Yellow Brushes Artis Opus: Various sizes including a size 1 and larger for blending, but any high-quality brush of a similar size is great. Other Materials Tamiya sanding pads (for smoothing out any imperfections or rough patches in the paint) Wet palette Airbrush (optional) Scalpel (for cleanup of the miniature before painting) How to Paint the Cloak Steps Step 1: Airbrushing the Base Coat (Optional): Prime: Start with a white primer. Base Coat: Apply a few thin coats of Khorne Red using your airbrush. Highlight: Lightly dust the raised areas with white from a top-down angle. Midtone: Airbrush Evil Sunz Scarlet, adding subtle tonal variation. Shadow: Tilt the model back and airbrush Barak-Nar Burgundy on downward-facing areas. Note: This airbrushing step is optional. If you prefer, you can achieve a similar base by painting Khorne Red directly onto a black undercoat. Step 2: Hand-Painting Highlights and Shadows: Wet Palette: Prepare a wet palette with the following colours: Evil Sunz Scarlet Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with Old Rose Old Rose Old Rose mixed with Ice Yellow Ice Yellow Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with Barak-Nar Burgundy (various ratios) Barak-Nar Burgundy Highlighting: Use a size 1 brush (or larger) to apply highlights with Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with a small amount of Old Rose. Follow the natural curves and contours of the cloak, focusing on areas where light would naturally fall. Blocking in Shadows: Use Khorne Red (or a mix of Khorne Red and Barak-Nar Burgundy) to block in shadow areas. Don’t worry about perfect blending at this stage; focus on establishing tonal contrast. Refining Transitions: Switch to a larger brush (size 2 or 3) for smoother blending. Use a pulling motion, dragging the paint from the highlights into the shadows. Glazing: Thin your paints with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply glazes to smooth out transitions and unify the colours. Step 3: Adding Weathering and Texture: Thinned Paints: Use a 1:1 ratio of paint to water for texture. Fraying: With a fine brush, apply short, feathery strokes of a slightly lighter, desaturated red (e.g., Barak-Nar Burgundy mixed with Khorne Red and Old Rose) to the edges of the cloak to simulate fraying. Scratches: Create fine scratches using the same desaturated red. Vary the direction and length of the scratches for a natural look. Refinement: Glazing can be used to soften harsh lines and create subtle variations in colour and texture. Additional Tips: Use a lamp to identify natural highlights and shadows on the cloak. Don’t be afraid to experiment and personalise your weathering effects! Make her cloak unique to you and have fun. Video: How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel Materials Games Workshop paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Abaddon Black, Sons of Horus Green, Barak-Nar Burgundy Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Heavy Grey Two Thin Coats paint: Dark Sun Yellow P3 paint: Morrow White Various Artist Opus brushes, including size 1 and size 2 Steps to Follow Step 1: Block in the Colours Begin by roughly blocking in the colours on the entire model using a size 1 brush. This helps to establish the overall colour scheme and provides a base for the highlights. Use Neutral Grey for the armour plates and XV-88 for the gold trim. Apply Sons of Horus Green and Barak-Nar Burgundy to the skin areas. Step 2: Refine the Armour Plates Choose an armour panel to focus on and begin refining the NMM effect. Start with Neutral Grey and gradually add Ice Yellow to create a series of increasingly lighter highlights. Use a variety of brush strokes to create texture and variation in the reflections, ensuring a “micro texture” that is smooth and detailed. Consider the overall lighting of the model and place the highlights accordingly. Glaze with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to add depth and warmth to the shadows. Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights, creating smooth transitions and a bright, opaque finish. Step 3: Add Weathering and Details Use a smaller brush to add scratches, dents, and other details to the armour plates, turning the marks from the initial blocking in into realistic battle damage. Vary the colours of the weathering based on the surrounding area, using darker greys or black in shadowed areas and lighter greys or white in highlighted areas. Glaze with white to create a smooth, opaque finish on the brightest highlights, enhancing the illusion of reflected light. Step 4: Repeat for Additional Panels Repeat the process for the remaining armour panels, adjusting the placement and intensity of the highlights to match the overall lighting scheme. Remember that the highlights should become smaller and darker as you move away from the main focal point of the model. How to Build Abraxia! PDF and Video Guide! How to Build Abraxia, With Tips! This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks, too! Watch Now Read PDF Guide If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer

My series of video tutorials on How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer! I plan to paint many of the skaven from the box and provide videos for them, with the intention of having a painted army! It will be a challenge! How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Don’t worry though, I will be carrying on with Golden Demon entry pieces at the same time. I’ve also just got another Nagash model, which should be exciting…. Video: How to Build a Skaventide Grey SeerHow to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by StepAssemblyGap FillingAdditional TipsVideo: How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part OnePaints and MaterialsPaints:Other MaterialsHow to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by StepBase CoatingHow to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer HornsSkin and FurEyesTeethRobesSwordMetal DetailsRustVideo: How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part Two – NMM and VerdigrisPaints UsedInverted Highlighting and VerdigrisPainting the StaffPainting the SymbolAdditional TipsVideo: How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part Three Materials NeededHow to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part Three – Step by Step!Painting the BasePainting the BellPainting the Verdigris on the BellPainting the Staff Grip and WoodPainting the FleshPainting the FurPainting the TailFinishing Touches on the Bell Video: How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer How to Build a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by Step Gather Your Tools: You’ll need Godhand clippers (or similar), a scalpel, Tamiya Extra Thin Cement, and sprue glue (Tamiya Extra Thin Cement mixed with plastic sprue bits).Clean Your Model: Carefully clip out all the model pieces. Use your scalpel to scrape away any mould lines, always angling the blade away from the direction you’re moving to avoid cutting into the model. Take your time with this step.Remove Push-Fit Connections: Even though the model is push-fit, I cut off the connection points to avoid gaps and make painting easier. This makes for a cleaner fit. Assembly Dry Fit: Before gluing, dry fit the pieces together to make sure everything lines up correctly.Glue Main Body: Apply a small amount of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to the connection points and join the pieces together. Use gentle pressure to ensure a tight fit.Leave the Head: Don’t glue the head yet, as this will make painting easier. Gap Filling Identify Gaps: Look for any gaps or seams in the model where the pieces join.Apply Sprue Glue: Carefully apply sprue glue to the gaps, being careful not to get any on areas you don’t want to fill. Use the tip of your scalpel to guide the glue and remove any excess.Smooth Out: Once the sprue glue is dry, use a fine file or sandpaper to smooth out any rough edges.Your Grey Seer model is now ready for priming and painting! Additional Tips Work in a well-ventilated area as the glues and paints can be toxic. If you accidentally get sprue glue somewhere you don’t want it, you can try to quickly remove it with extra thin cement. Take your time and don’t rush the process. The more care you take in the preparation stages, the better the final result will be. If you’re painting a whole army, consider cutting some corners to save time, but still aim for a neat and tidy finish. Video: How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part One Paints and Materials Paints: Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Mournfang Brown XV-88 Dechalla Lilac Balor Brown Morghast Bone Troll Slayer Orange Sotek Green Moot Green Khorne Red Sybarite Green Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Vallejo: Model Colour Black Neutral Grey P3: Morrow White Other Materials Airbrush: For applying the initial base coats of Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, and XV-88. If you don’t have an airbrush, a rattle can can be used as a substitute. Wet Palette: To keep paints from drying out and for mixing colours. Brushes: I use a selection of Artist Opus brushes, such as a size 1 Artis Opus brush for the robes and a smaller brush for details like runes and rivets. Choose brushes that are appropriate for the level of detail you want to achieve. How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer – Step by Step Base Coating Prime: Start by priming the entire model black. Airbrush Base Coats: Use an airbrush to apply a coat of Rhinox Hide over the entire model. Then, focus a bit more on the head area with Mournfang Brown. Finally, spray XV-88 towards the head to create a focal point and raise the overall brightness. If you don’t have an airbrush, you can use a rattle can instead. How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Horns Paint Transition: Start with Morghast Bone on the tips of the horns, then blend in XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, and finally black. Overload your brush with thinned-down paint (1:1 ratio of water to paint) and blend as you go along. Multiple Coats: Apply multiple coats to achieve smooth transitions, especially near the base of the horns. Refine Details (Optional): Once dry, you can go back and pick out details on the horns with a smaller brush. Skin and Fur Base Coat: Begin with Neutral Grey, then use a red to paint the nose, blend around the eyes, and fill in any gaps. Highlight: Mix Neutral Grey with increasing amounts of white and apply in layers, starting with a small amount of white and gradually adding more for brighter highlights. Refine Later: Don’t worry about making it perfect at this stage. You can refine the details later. Eyes Black Base: Paint the entire eye area black, including the recesses. Moot Green Iris: Paint two-thirds of the eye with Moot Green, leaving the area under the eyebrow black. Black Pupil: If needed, use black paint to create a pupil in the centre of the eye. White Highlight: Add a small dot of white to the top of the iris for a shine. You can also add a small highlight with Morghast Bone in the bottom right of the eye. Teeth XV-88 Base (If Needed): If the teeth aren’t already brown, apply XV-88 as a base coat. Morghast Bone Highlight: Paint the upper teeth with Morghast Bone, focusing on the top curve. Paint the very tips of the lower teeth. White Tips (Optional): For extra brightness, add a touch of white to the very tips of the teeth. Feel free to experiment with different brush sizes and paint consistencies to achieve the desired effect. Remember to work in a well-ventilated area, as the paints and solvents can be toxic. Don’t worry if the model doesn’t look perfect at this stage. You’ll have plenty of opportunities to refine it in the next steps. Robes Mixes: Create three mixes on your wet palette: Challa Lilac Challa Lilac mixed with P3 Morrow White Challa Lilac mixed with Rhinox Hide Apply Base Coat: Apply the Challa Lilac and Rhinox Hide mix as the base coat for the robes. Highlight: Use the Challa Lilac mix to highlight raised areas, focusing on light placement and texture. You can add more white to the mix for brighter highlights. Layer: Build up layers of the highlight mix, gradually increasing the brightness. Optional Details: For a higher-level finish, spend more time adding texture and refining highlights. How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Sword Highlight Shine: Use a light grey (Neutral Grey mixed with white) to paint a shine spot on the blade. Base Coat the Blade: Cover the rest of the blade with Rhinox Hide, including the areas around the runes. Metal Details Glaze Black: Glaze the recesses and darker areas of the metal parts with watered-down black paint to increase contrast. Scratches and Marks: Use a small brush to add scratches and marks with Neutral Grey, focusing on the darker areas. Rivets (Optional): Paint the rivets with metallic colours and add bounce highlights for extra detail. Rust Stipple Rust: Stipple Mournfang Brown and Troll Slayer Orange onto the blade of the dagger, avoiding the runes. Rune Base Coat: Paint the runes with Balor Brown or a mix of Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow and Two Thin Coats Scorched Earth. Video: How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part Two – NMM and Verdigris This is part 2 in a series for how to paint the new Grey Seer from the Skaventide box that Games Workshop sent me. This video focuses on the metal sections of the staff, particularly the top symbol, and how to paint it in NMM and add verdigris. Paints Used Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Sotek Green, Sybarite Green Vallejo: Ice Yellow Two Thin Coats: Dark Sun Yellow Inverted Highlighting and Verdigris We’ll start by finishing the verdigris around the runes on the dagger. This involves inverted highlighting, where the darkest areas are actually the lightest. The mix for this is Sybarite Green and Sotek Green, with a touch of white added for the highlight layer. Remember this mix, as we’ll use it later on the staff and symbol. Painting the Staff Base Colours: If you airbrushed the model with brown, you can use XV-88 as your starting point for highlights. For areas not covered by XV-88, use Mournfang Brown to blend the edges. Remember, the goal is a scratched, rough metal look, not a perfectly smooth finish. Highlighting: Start by mixing XV-88 with Dark Sun Yellow and apply it to the curves of the staff, focusing on areas where light would naturally hit. Gradually add more Dark Sun Yellow to your mix for subsequent highlights, building up the brightness. For the final highlights, use pure Dark Sun Yellow or Ice Yellow mixed with Dark Sun Yellow. Remember to paint the entire staff, including the back and sides, but focus the brightest highlights on the front. Adding Depth and Contrast: Use Rhinox Hide to darken areas and create contrast. Thin the Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown for smoother blending. Don’t worry about being too precise with the scratches; they’ll add to the overall texture. Painting the Symbol Flat Surfaces: Painting NMM on flat surfaces can be tricky, but focus on edge highlights and texture. Use the same colors and techniques as for the staff, but pay attention to the light source and where the brightest highlights should be. Leave the sides of the symbol dark to enhance contrast. Verdigris: Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (50/50) and heavily water it down (70% water, 30% paint). Apply the verdigris to the recesses and darker areas of the symbol. Remember, this is for visual effect, not realism, so focus on what looks best. Additional Tips Use a size 1 Artist Opus brush for the scratchy marks. Don’t worry about perfect transitions; the scratches will help blend the colours. Consider the overall lighting of your model and adjust highlight placement accordingly. For a more desaturated gold, add more white to your Dark Sun Yellow mixes. Video: How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part Three Welcome to the final part of our Grey Seer tutorial from the Skaventide box set. In this guide, we’ll cover the remaining steps to complete the model, including painting the large bell with verdigris effects, the pink tail, the staff grip and wood, among other details! Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Sotek Green, Sybarite Green, Khorne Red, XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Cadian Fleshtone Vallejo: Old Rose, Ice Yellow, Model Colour Black, Neutral Grey P3: Morrow White Brushes: Size 1 Artis Opus brush, Size 00 Artis Opus brush Additional Supplies: Water for thinning paints, a wet palette, and a clean cloth for brush cleaning. How to Paint a Skaventide Grey Seer Part Three – Step by Step! Painting the Base Colours Used: Rhinox Hide Thin the Rhinox Hide paint heavily and use a larger brush to apply it under the robes and near the feet. This creates a transition and contrast against the light XV-88 applied earlier with an airbrush. The purpose here is to darken these areas, making the robes stand out more. Painting the Bell Base Coat: XV-88 and Mournfang Brown mixed with Tooth and Coat Dark Sun Yellow. Highlighting: Mix various ratios of Mournfang Brown to Dark Sun Yellow, progressing from darker to lighter shades. Steps: Apply a base coat mix of XV-88 and Mournfang Brown. Highlight the bell using mixes of Dark Sun Yellow, gradually lightening the colours by adding more yellow. Focus on creating high-contrast areas with a loose application to simulate a metallic look. Ensure the top is bright and the sides remain darker. Apply verdigris effects using Sotek Green and Sybarite Green, focusing on shadowed areas. Painting the Verdigris on the Bell Colours Used: Sotek Green, Sybarite Green, White for highlights. Application: Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (roughly 50/50). Apply the verdigris in large, loose strokes, focusing on shadowed areas. Add a bit of white to the verdigris mix and stipple on lighter areas to create texture and variation. Painting the Staff Grip and Wood Base Coat: Khorne Red for the grip. Highlights: Old Rose and Ice Yellow. Steps: Base coat the grip with Khorne Red. Mix Old Rose with Khorne Red for the first highlight, then Old Rose with Ice Yellow for further highlights. Highlight the wrap with Old Rose, working towards lighter mixes for the edges. For the wood, use XV-88 and highlight with Balor Brown and Morghast Bone. Painting the Flesh Colours Used: Cadian Fleshtone, White. Application: Base coat with Cadian Fleshtone, then add white for highlights. Focus on picking out the knuckles, creases, and raised areas of the flesh. Painting the Fur Colours Used: Neutral Grey, White. Application: Base coat with Neutral Grey. Highlight by mixing Neutral Grey with White. Use small, controlled strokes to simulate the texture of fur. Painting the Tail Base Coat: Rhinox Hide and Old Rose. Highlights: Mix Old Rose with white. Steps: Base coat with Rhinox Hide and Old Rose, blending on the model for a smooth transition. Apply highlights by mixing Old Rose with white, focusing on the tail segments. Finishing Touches on the Bell Stippling: Add more detailed verdigris using a stippling technique with Sotek Green and Sybarite Green mixed with white. Detailing: Focus on rivets and areas where verdigris would naturally accumulate. Thank you for following along, and stay tuned for more tutorials on painting Skaven models and other exciting projects! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint the Cloak for Abraxia

Learn how to paint the cloak for Abraxia, the latest in my series for how to paint Abraxia from the Slaves to Darkness army. In this video I use a slightly different technique to how I have previously painted cloaks, to give a stronger red with a slightly shiny finish, making the cloak red particularly strong. Video: How to Paint the Cloak for Abraxia Paints Used Games Workshop Paints: Khorne Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Barak-Nar BurgundyVallejo Paints: Old Rose, Ice Yellow Brushes Artis Opus: Various sizes including a size 1 and larger for blending, but any high-quality brush of a similar size is great. Other Materials Tamiya sanding pads (for smoothing out any imperfections or rough patches in the paint) Wet palette Airbrush (optional) Scalpel (for cleanup of the miniature before painting) How to Paint the Cloak Step 1: Airbrushing the Base Coat (Optional): Prime: Start with a white primer. Base Coat: Apply a few thin coats of Khorne Red using your airbrush. Highlight: Lightly dust the raised areas with white from a top-down angle. Midtone: Airbrush Evil Sunz Scarlet, adding subtle tonal variation. Shadow: Tilt the model back and airbrush Barak-Nar Burgundy on downward-facing areas. Note: This airbrushing step is optional. If you prefer, you can achieve a similar base by painting Khorne Red directly onto a black undercoat. Step 2: Hand-Painting Highlights and Shadows: Wet Palette: Prepare a wet palette with the following colours: Evil Sunz Scarlet Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with Old Rose Old Rose Old Rose mixed with Ice Yellow Ice Yellow Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with Barak-Nar Burgundy (various ratios) Barak-Nar Burgundy Highlighting: Use a size 1 brush (or larger) to apply highlights with Evil Sunz Scarlet mixed with a small amount of Old Rose. Follow the natural curves and contours of the cloak, focusing on areas where light would naturally fall. Blocking in Shadows: Use Khorne Red (or a mix of Khorne Red and Barak-Nar Burgundy) to block in shadow areas. Don’t worry about perfect blending at this stage; focus on establishing tonal contrast. Refining Transitions: Switch to a larger brush (size 2 or 3) for smoother blending. Use a pulling motion, dragging the paint from the highlights into the shadows. Glazing: Thin your paints with water (4-5 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply glazes to smooth out transitions and unify the colours. Step 3: Adding Weathering and Texture: Thinned Paints: Use a 1:1 ratio of paint to water for texture. Fraying: With a fine brush, apply short, feathery strokes of a slightly lighter, desaturated red (e.g., Barak-Nar Burgundy mixed with Khorne Red and Old Rose) to the edges of the cloak to simulate fraying. Scratches: Create fine scratches using the same desaturated red. Vary the direction and length of the scratches for a natural look. Refinement: Glazing can be used to soften harsh lines and create subtle variations in colour and texture. Additional Tips: Use a lamp to identify natural highlights and shadows on the cloak. Don’t be afraid to experiment and personalise your weathering effects! Make her cloak unique to you and have fun. By combining airbrushing and hand-painting techniques, you can achieve a rich, textured, and weathered satin cloak for your Abraxia miniature. The depth and vibrancy of the red will make your model stand out on the battlefield and in your display cabinet! More Abraxia Tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint the Abraxia Head!

The latest video for Abraxia, this time looking at how to paint her head/skin, eyes and horns. The video also goes over some of the difficulties with this sculpt and the fact that I modified it. Video: How to Paint the Abraxia Head Paints Used Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Mournfang Brown Balor Brown (Alternative to Tuskgor Fur) Evil Sunz Scarlet XV-88 Morghast Bone Ushabti Bone Screaming Skull Vallejo: Model Colour Black Model Colour Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White Brushes Artis Opus: Series M or S, Size 00 (for details and glazing) Other Materials Sprue glue Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Wet palette Lamp (for highlighting) Blue Tac (for holding the miniature) How to Paint the Abraxia Head Step 1: Prep Work and Eye Basecoat Forehead Conversion: If desired, remove the protruding spike and fill it in for a smoother look. Use sprue glue and a touch of Tamiya Extra Thin to blend it seamlessly. Eye Basecoat: For the whites of the eyes, use a light yellow colour like Citadel’s Ice Yellow. Avoid pure white, as it won’t make the white dot “pop” later. Eye Challenges: Note the sculpted dots on the eyes, intended for glowing demon eyes. We’ll work around these to create a more human look. Scars running through the lower eyes will be addressed throughout the painting process. Step 2: Skin Basecoat and Highlight Placement Skin Basecoat: Apply a generous coat of Mournfang Brown. Use a 1:1 ratio of paint to water for a smooth application. Over-Highlighting: Don’t just highlight the shiny spots under a lamp. Cover the majority of the head with Mournfang Brown to avoid high contrasts later. Light Direction: Consider the direction of the light source for your highlights. I’m working with a top-left angle, focusing highlights there but ensuring ample coverage on the right side as well. Step 3: Skin Highlights Highlight Colours: Use a mix of Mournfang Brown with a tiny bit of Tuskgor Fur (or Ushabti Bone if you find Tuskgor Fur too grainy), gradually increasing the amount of Tuskgor Fur for lighter highlights. Blending: Carefully blend the highlight colours together, using a size z00 Artis Opus brush with a tiny amount of paint. Glazing: After highlighting, use watered-down Mournfang Brown (3-4 parts water to 1 part paint) and Rhinox Hide for glazing. This will smooth the transitions and enhance the shadows. Step 4: Horns Horn Basecoat: Apply Mournfang Brown to the horns. Horn Highlight Colours: Use XV-88, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, and white to highlight the horns. Horn Gradient: Aim for a light-to-dark gradient, with the base of the horns being the lightest and the tips the darkest. You can achieve this through wet blending, applying the colours while the paint is still wet. Horn Texture: Use the tip of your brush to create a stippling or scratching effect for a textured look. Vary the strokes and avoid uniform patterns. Step 5: Eyes and Lips Eye Refinement: Gradually fill in the scars on the lower eyes with the same light yellow used for the basecoat. Be patient and build up the layers for a smooth finish. Pupil: Paint a small white dot in the centre of each eye. Aim for similar size and shape for both eyes. Lip Colour: Leave the upper lip black, but paint the lower lip with a mix of Evil Sunz Scarlet and white. Use the lightest mix for the brightest highlights. Lip Details: Carefully define the shape of the lips with black paint, adding a slight highlight to the ridge below the nose. Add tiny lines on the sides of the mouth for added expression. Step 6: Final Touches Makeup: Extend the black around the eyes to create a “tick” that goes up towards the temple on both sides. Refinement: Keep refining the highlights, shadows, and textures until you’re happy with the result. This is a meticulous process, so take your time and enjoy it! If you have any questions or run into any trouble, don’t hesitate to ask in the comments below. Happy painting! More Abraxia Tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel

This step-by-step guide provides a comprehensive overview of the process for how to paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel. By following these steps, you can achieve a stunning NMM (non-metallic metal) finish which you can use on your Abraxia, or anything that has this distinctive curved armour or carapace shape! Video: How to Paint the Abraxia Mount NMM Armour Panel Materials Games Workshop paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Abaddon Black, Sons of Horus Green, Barak-Nar Burgundy Vallejo paints: Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Heavy Grey Two Thin Coats paint: Dark Sun Yellow P3 paint: Morrow White Various Artist Opus brushes, including size 1 and size 2 Steps to Follow Step 1: Block in the Colours Begin by roughly blocking in the colours on the entire model using a size 1 brush. This helps to establish the overall colour scheme and provides a base for the highlights. Use Neutral Grey for the armour plates and XV-88 for the gold trim. Apply Sons of Horus Green and Barak-Nar Burgundy to the skin areas. Step 2: Refine the Armour Plates Choose an armour panel to focus on and begin refining the NMM effect. Start with Neutral Grey and gradually add Ice Yellow to create a series of increasingly lighter highlights. Use a variety of brush strokes to create texture and variation in the reflections, ensuring a “micro texture” that is smooth and detailed. Consider the overall lighting of the model and place the highlights accordingly. Glaze with Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide to add depth and warmth to the shadows. Use P3 Morrow White for the final highlights, creating smooth transitions and a bright, opaque finish. Step 3: Add Weathering and Details Use a smaller brush to add scratches, dents, and other details to the armour plates, turning the marks from the initial blocking in into realistic battle damage. Vary the colours of the weathering based on the surrounding area, using darker greys or black in shadowed areas and lighter greys or white in highlighted areas. Glaze with white to create a smooth, opaque finish on the brightest highlights, enhancing the illusion of reflected light. Step 4: Repeat for Additional Panels Repeat the process for the remaining armour panels, adjusting the placement and intensity of the highlights to match the overall lighting scheme. Remember that the highlights should become smaller and darker as you move away from the main focal point of the model. Additional Tips: Don’t be afraid to experiment with different colours and techniques. Consider the overall composition of the model and how the different elements will interact with each other – what will be on your base? Who will be around it? Colours will reflect off these objects onto the shiny armour. Building your Abraxia How to Build Abraxia, With Tips! This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc. Watch Now Read PDF Guide If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Build Abraxia – PDF

This step by step PDF guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc. How to Build Abraxia PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here. Looking for the video? How to Build Abraxia, With Tips! This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc. Watch Now Read PDF Guide Explore all the tutorials for Abraxia If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs in addition to the How to Build Abraxia PDF above. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Direwolf Titan in Legio Mortis Colours – PDF

Dive into the latest step-by-step guide by Richard Gray, focusing on how to paint the Direwolf Titan in the iconic Legio Mortis colours. This comprehensive guide, complemented by an in-depth video tutorial, will help you achieve a professional, dramatic finish on your models. What’s Inside the Guide? Priming and Base Layer Techniques: Learn the essential steps to prepare your model for painting, ensuring a smooth, durable base. Airbrushing Mastery: Discover tips for achieving seamless highlights and shading using an airbrush. Detailed Painting Steps: Follow along with detailed instructions for painting red armour panels, black sections, and metallic trims. Advanced Weathering Effects: Add depth and realism with expert weathering techniques, including oil washes and rust effects. Decals and Final Touches: Perfect your model with tips on applying decals and adding the final touches that make your Direwolf Titan stand out. Materials and Paints Used: The guide covers the essential paints and materials, including Games Workshop and Vallejo paints, Scale 75 metallics, and various weathering powders. Exclusive Tips and Tricks: Richard shares his top tips for achieving smooth gradients, realistic weathering, and eye-catching highlights. Ready to transform your Direwolf Titan? Make sure you are logged in and download the detailed PDF guide, below. The PDF will load below (please allow a few mins for it to load!). You can also access it by clicking here. Legio-Titan-June-2024 Looking for the video? How to Paint a Direwolf Titan Learn how to paint a Direwolf Titan with me using Legio Mortis colours. Follow along below with my full video tutorial, plus step-by-step instructions and specific techniques to help you achieve a striking finish with your model. Watch Now If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Build Abraxia, With Tips!

This video and step by step guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc. Video : How to Build Abraxia Materials Needed Godhand Clippers Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Sprue Glue (a mix of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement and chopped-up sprues) Scalpel Tamiya Sanding Pad Step 1: Preparation Gather Your Tools and Materials: Ensure you have all the tools listed above.Examine the Sprues: Familiarise yourself with the parts on the sprues. This will make it easier to find pieces as you go along. Step 2: Clipping and Cleaning Parts Clipping: Using the Godhand clippers, carefully clip the parts from the sprues. The clippers are extremely sharp, so apply gentle pressure to avoid breaking the blades.Tip: Clip close to the part, but leave a small nub which can be cleaned off later to avoid stressing the plastic. Cleaning Nubs: Use a scalpel to carefully trim the remaining nubs. Hold the blade at an angle and gently scrape towards yourself to remove excess plastic.Tip: For safer handling, brace your thumb against the part while cutting, ensuring better control. Step 3: Gluing and Assembling Sub-Assemblies Legs and Body: Follow the instructions to glue parts 18, 23, and 24 together using Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Apply the cement on the inside edges where parts join, allowing capillary action to pull the glue into the gaps.Tip: Be cautious with the amount of glue to avoid fingerprints or excess glue marks.Additional Parts: Continue assembling other parts such as the claws and tail using the same method. Fit the pieces together dry before gluing to ensure proper alignment. Step 4: Detailed Cleaning and Assembly Removing Mould Lines: Use a scalpel to carefully scrape off any mould lines on the model. For textured areas like horns or scales, scrape lightly to avoid removing detail.Tip: Use the back of the blade for a gentler approach, similar to a mould line remover tool.Smoothing Edges: Apply Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to smooth the edges after scraping. This will help melt any residual plastic bits, leaving a clean surface. Step 5: Filling Gaps Using Sprue Glue: For any visible gaps, apply sprue glue. It’s thicker than regular cement, filling gaps effectively.Tip: After applying, use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement to smooth the filled areas, ensuring a seamless look.Allow to Dry: Let the sprue glue dry overnight. This ensures it hardens properly before any sanding or additional work. Step 6: Final Assembly Main Body and Legs: Once the sprue glue has dried, sand any filled areas with a Tamiya sanding pad. The foam backing allows it to conform to the model’s shape, preventing flat spots.Tip: Brush away any dust with a soft brush before proceeding.Attaching Arms and Head: Glue the arms, head, and other remaining parts. Ensure the rider and dinosaur are assembled separately if you plan to paint them in sub-assemblies. Step 7: Assembly for Painting Sub-Assemblies: Keep parts like the head, shield, and cloak separate for easier painting. Use blue tack to hold pieces in place during dry fitting.Testing Fit: Ensure the rider fits well on the dinosaur before gluing the final pieces. Final Tips Use Proper Lighting: Ensure your work area is well-lit to catch any small details or imperfections.Handle with Care: Always handle parts gently to avoid breaking delicate pieces. By following this guide, you’ll have a well-assembled and cleaned Abraxia model, ready for priming and painting. Good luck! How to Build Abraxia PDF Want this step-by-step guide as a downloadable PDF, with lots more tips, photos and instruction? How to Build Abraxia PDF This step by step PDF guide shows the whole process how to build Abraxia, building and cleaning up the new model from Games Workshop in preparation for painting. I go over lots of little tips and tricks to hide join lines, remove mould lines etc. Read Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Direwolf Titan

Learn how to paint a Direwolf Titan with me using Legio Mortis colours. Follow along below with my full video tutorial, plus step-by-step instructions and specific techniques to help you achieve a striking finish with your model.Legio Mortis, also known as “The Death’s Heads,” is one of the most infamous Titan Legions in the Warhammer 40,000 universe. They are closely associated with the forces of Chaos, particularly after their fall to the dark powers during the Horus Heresy. This legion is renowned for its ruthless tactics and the fearsome appearance of its Titans, which often bear dark, menacing colours to instil fear in their enemies. Video: How to Paint a Direwolf Titan Materials Needed:PDF GuideHow to Paint a Direwolf Titan Simple StepsPreparation and Base Coating:Highlighting:Shading:Secondary Colour Application:Detailing with Decals and Stripes:Metallics and Trims:Weathering and Final Touches:Engine Glow and Eye Effects: Video: How to Paint a Direwolf Titan Materials Needed: Airbrush Airbrush thinner (Tamia X20A or Vallejo Airbrush Thinner) Paints: Games Workshop: Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, Nuln Oil, Blood Angels Red (Contrast), Darkoath Flesh (Contrast), Wyldwood (Contrast), Daemonette Hide, Firedragon Bright Vallejo: Neutral Grey, Metal Colour Burnt Iron, Metal Colour Chrome, Metal Colour Copper Scale 75: Necro Gold Winsor and Newton Oil Colour: Titanium White, Ivory Black, Burnt Sienna, Viridian Hue Sansodor Thinner Orange Weathering Powder (originally Forge World) Brushes, including finer brushes for detailing Masking tape for creating patterns Matte and gloss varnish Gloves (optional for handling) PDF Guide How to Paint a Direwolf Titan in Legion Mortis Colours Learn how to paint a Direwolf Titan with me using Legio Mortis colours in this detailed PDF guide with photographs. Read Now How to Paint a Direwolf Titan How to Paint a Direwolf Titan Simple Steps Preparation and Base Coating: Ensure your model is clean, primed, and ready for painting. Using an airbrush, apply a smooth base coat of Mephiston Red across the entire model. No need for pre-shading or gradient effects at this stage. Highlighting: Mix Wild Rider Red with airbrush thinner to ensure a smooth flow. Apply this mix to the curved surfaces of the armor to introduce vibrancy but maintain some of the darker Mephiston Red in the recesses and flat areas. Adjust your airbrush to about 30 PSI, using a 0.4 needle for precision. Shading: Apply Nuln Oil with an airbrush into the deeper recesses and shaded areas to enhance the model’s depth and contrast. Secondary Colour Application: For areas meant to be black or darker, apply Daemonette Hide followed by strategic highlights using a lighter grey (like Vallejo Neutral Grey). This creates a subtle contrast and adds visual interest. Detailing with Decals and Stripes: Apply decals as desired. For stripes, use masking tape to create even lines, then paint over with Neutral Grey and gradually lighten with mixes of P3 Morale White. Metallics and Trims: Paint metallic parts with Vallejo Metal Colours and highlight using Necro Gold for trims. Add depth with dark washes (like Wyldwood) and highlight with brighter gold paints. Weathering and Final Touches: Use oil paints mixed with thinner to create washes and filters over the model, focusing on metallic areas and edges. Utilise weathering powders to simulate dirt and wear, especially on lower sections like legs and feet. Seal your model with a matte or satin varnish to protect the paintwork and add a realistic finish. Engine Glow and Eye Effects: For glowing effects, such as the engine or eyes, use bright, vibrant colours like Firedragon Bright and layer up to a bright yellow or white at the highest points of light. Additional How to Paint a Direwolf Titan Tips Always keep your airbrush clean and free from clogs. When using oils or weathering powders, allow ample drying time before handling. Experiment with light and shadow by varying the intensity and location of highlights and shades. Wear gloves to avoid smudging and leaving fingerprints on your painted model. More Titan Tutorials! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials in addition to the How to Paint a Direwolf Titan video above, with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Wilderfiend Necklace with NMM Metal and Skulls (while also testing out some AMMO paints).

Today I’m going to focus on mastering the non-metallic metal (NMM) effect on the necklace portion of the WIlderfiend using both Games Workshop and AMMO paints. Read on to get started with a detailed video tutorial, paints list and step-by-step tips and guide. Video: How to Paint a Wilderfiend Necklace with NMM Metal and Skulls How to Paint a Wilderfiend Necklace with NMM Metal and Skulls Guide Materials Needed: Paints: AMMO by Mig Jimenez (White, Yellow, Brown, Basic Skin, Red), Games Workshop (Rhinox Hide, Balor Brown, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull) Brushes: Size 2 Artist Opus Brush, finer detail brushes as necessary Other: Water for thinning paints, wet palette, palette for mixing Step-by-Step Guide: 1. Base Coating Colour Used: Mournfang Brown Start by applying a solid base coat of Mournfang Brown to the top section of the necklace. This initial layer is not about perfection but establishing a solid foundation for further details. Ensure even coverage to avoid patchiness that can complicate later stages. 2. Adding Highlights Colours Used: Gradually add Dark Sun Yellow to Mournfang Brown Begin to introduce highlights by slowly mixing in Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown to create a gradient effect. Concentrate this lighter mixture on areas that would naturally catch light, such as the uppermost ridges and prominent features of the necklace. This method helps to simulate the reflective properties of metal without using metallic paints. 3. Integrating Scratches and Weathering Enhance the realism of the piece by introducing fine scratches and signs of wear. Using a finer brush, alternate between the original base mix and a lighter mix with more Dark Sun Yellow. Apply these marks strategically to suggest age and use, enhancing the textured look of a battle-worn artefact. 4. Refining Highlights Colours Used: Primarily Dark Sun Yellow, mixed progressively with AMMO White for brighter highlights As you refine your highlights, shift towards using lighter mixes, culminating in nearly pure Dark Sun Yellow with touches of white. Focus these brightest highlights on the most prominent areas where light would be strongest. This step is crucial for pushing the NMM effect, giving the illusion of metallic shine. 5. Adjusting Shadows and Midtones Colours Used: Glazes of Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide Apply glazes of Mournfang Brown to smooth the transitions between the mid-tones and shadows, ensuring there are no harsh lines between colours. Use Rhinox Hide to deepen shadows in the undercuts and less exposed areas of the necklace, which helps to enhance the three-dimensional feel and adds depth to the piece. 6. Final Details and Touch-ups Revisit all previously worked areas to add final details such as sharper lines and more refined scratches. This stage is about perfecting the look, making sure every feature stands out as intended, and the overall effect is cohesive. Sometimes, this might include toning down overdone highlights or reinforcing the shadows for better contrast. 7. Painting Skulls and Additional Elements Base Coat: Start with Balor Brown for skulls and bone elements. Highlights and Texturing: Build up highlights using Morghast Bone, gradually adding Screaming Skull to the mix for the highest points. Pay special attention to textural details like teeth and eye sockets, using lighter colours to bring these features forward. The contrast between the bone and the metallic effect of the necklace should be stark, with bones appearing more matte and subdued. Techniques to Note: Glazing: This involves mixing a small amount of paint with a large portion of water to create a transparent layer that subtly shifts the tone beneath it. Stippling: Use the tip of your brush to apply small dots of paint, creating a textured effect that mimics the irregular surface of metals and worn materials. Dry Brushing: Gently drag a dry brush with minimal paint over raised textures to highlight edges and details quickly. All the Wilderfiend Tutorials: This is just a part of my set of tutorials on how to paint a Wilderfiend from Games Workshop. To watch them all in order, follow the link below: How to Paint a Darkoath Wilderfiend A series for how to paint the Wilderfiend from the Darkoath army, which Games Workshop sent me. The first video looks at the skin, lips, teeth, eyes and horns. We’ll focus on creating a heavily textured look, while the second moves on to the NMM of his necklace and his skulls! Watch Now If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials aside from my How to Paint a Wilderfiend with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

Nagash Repaint by Richard Gray – Part One!

This is the first in a new series of videos for the Nagash repaint to get him suitable to be a Golden Demon entry. I’m not sure if he’ll end up as a diorama or a large model, but in either case there will be a lot of work needed! Nagash Repaint by Richard Gray – Video Part One: Nagash Head, Eyes and Hat Gem Nagash Repaint by Richard Gray – Materials Needed: Paints: Games Workshop (Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Yriel Yellow, Moot Green, Mephiston Red, Rhinox Hide, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red), P3 (Iosen Green), Kimera Colours (White) Tools: Scalpel, PVA glue, Green Stuff (epoxy putty), various brushes, head-mounted magnifier Preparation: Initial Cleanup: I began by reassessing the model’s current state. For areas like the leather loin cloth, remove them if they no longer meet the desired quality. Sand down any rough edges where modifications were removed. Modifying Eye Sockets: Filling Eye Sockets: Instead of using PVA glue for its tendency to shrink, I opted for Green Stuff to fill the eye sockets of Nagash. Ensure the Green Stuff is smoothly applied, using the blunt end of a paintbrush to achieve a concave shape within the sockets. Base Colour for Eyes: Apply two to three layers of Kimera White inside the now shallow eye sockets. This creates a solid and clean white base. Adding Glow Effects: Due to the reduced depth, enhancing the glow effect is trickier. Use a mix of Yriel Yellow and White to create a transition shade, apply it close to the white base, then layer pure Yriel Yellow followed by Moot Green, focusing on the edges of the sockets. Repainting the Face: Base Facial Details: Start with Balor Brown thinned slightly for a glaze over the face, enhancing the warmth of the underlying colours. Detailing with Lighter Tones: Progressively lighten the face using Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull, avoiding too bright highlights to prevent clashing with other high points on the model. Teeth Enhancement: Focus on making the front teeth stand out by applying concentrated light tones, adding depth and interest. Modifying and Painting the Crown: Taking a Risk with the Gemstone: I chose to repaint the gem on Nagash’s crown in a vibrant red. Base the gem with a mix of Mephiston Red and Rhinox Hide to subdue the red. Building up Red Tones: Layer up through Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red, adding White to the highest highlights to achieve a shiny, reflective look on the facets of the gem. Finishing Touches: Final Adjustments: Ensure all modified areas blend seamlessly with the existing paintwork. This might include adding shadows and highlights to redefined areas like the eye sockets and crown. Sealing the Model: Once satisfied with the repaint, seal the model with a matte varnish to protect the paintwork and reduce any unwanted glossiness from previous layers. I’m excited to continue this series and share more about the ongoing transformations Nagash will undergo. Thank you for following along, and I look forward to presenting an even more impressive version of Nagash in the future! Previous Nagash Tutorials! If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Wilderfiend

This is part 1 in a series for how to paint the Wilderfiend from the Darkoath army, which Games Workshop sent me. The first video looks at the skin, lips, teeth, eyes and horns. We’ll focus on creating a heavily textured look! Video: How to Paint a Wilderfiend – Skin, teeth, eyes and horns Paints Vallejo Neutral Grey – Used for base coating and initial layers.Vallejo Heavy Grey – Applied for shading and adding depth.Citadel XV-88 – Used for stippling detailed textures.Citadel Balor Brown – For additional layering over XV-88.Corvus Black (Games Workshop) – Used thinned down for shading and deepening recesses.Citadel Pink Horror – For specific details like the inner mouth and gums.Mephiston Red (Games Workshop) – Used for glazing and enhancing red areas.Balor Brown (Games Workshop) – Applied on horns and spikes.Morghast Bone (Games Workshop) – For highlighting teeth and bone-like structures.Screaming Skull (Games Workshop) – Additional highlighting, especially on bones and teeth.Two Thin Coats Dark Sun Yellow – For eyes and specific bright details.Kimera Colours White – Used to lighten other colours for highlighting. Brushes Artis Opus (small size) – Mainly used for stippling the base coat.Modified Old Brush – Cut to half-size for fine stippling and detailed texture work.Standard Size 1 Brush – Used for general painting and finer details.Size 0 Brush – For very fine details, especially on smaller areas like teeth and eyes.Large Dry Brush – For broad strokes and quick coverage on larger areas. How to Paint a Wilderfiend Step 1: Preparation Before you start painting, ensure that all gaps and line gaps on the model, particularly between the muscles, are filled to prevent visible lines. Use sprue glue or putty as detailed in my other videos (you can watch one, here). This step is crucial for a clean finish once painted Objective: Prepare the model by filling any gaps to ensure a smooth surface. Materials: Sprue glue or sculpting putty. Method: Identify gaps, particularly between muscle joints or overlapping armor. Apply sprue glue or putty to fill these gaps. Use a small tool or toothpick for precision. Smooth the putty or glue with a moistened finger or tool to ensure it blends seamlessly into the surrounding area. Allow it to dry completely before proceeding to painting. Step 2: Base Coating Objective: Establish a uniform base layer and start building texture. Materials: Vallejo Neutral Grey, Artist Opus small brush. Method: Thin the Neutral Grey slightly with water for a workable consistency. Use the brush to stipple the paint onto the model, creating a textured base. This method helps the paint adhere better and provides a base for subsequent layers. Ensure complete coverage, avoiding pooling of the paint. Step 3: Adding Shades Objective: Add depth and dimension by shading recesses. Materials: Vallejo Heavy Grey. Method: Apply Heavy Grey into recesses and shadow-prone areas such as under limbs, behind equipment, and between muscles. Use a detail brush for precise application, avoiding over-application to maintain the integrity of the base texture. This step is not for detailed shading but to provide a variation in base tones. Step 4: Detailing with Stippling Objective: Enhance texture and prepare for detailed painting. Materials: Citadel XV-88, modified old brush. Method: Stipple XV-88 on areas where additional texture is desired, like spikes, horns, or heavily detailed armor. The modified brush allows for finer, more controlled stippling, which is crucial for building up texture on smaller, detailed areas. Focus on achieving a random, natural-looking texture rather than uniform coverage. Step 5: Additional Colour Layers Objective: Build up colour intensity and prepare for highlights. Materials: Citadel Bor Brown. Method: Apply Bor Brown over areas previously worked with XV-88, using the same stippling technique but with slightly thicker paint. This layer enhances the texture by adding a darker tone, which will add depth beneath the highlights. Ensure that this layer complements the textures and shadows already established. Step 6: Corrections and Enhancements Objective: Clean up any imperfections and refine the model’s details. Materials: Scalpel. Method: Inspect the model closely under good lighting. Use the scalpel to gently remove any stray bristles, dust particles, or excess putty that may have been overlooked. Make any necessary corrections to ensure the smoothest and most detailed surface possible before proceeding. Step 7: Highlighting Objective: Highlight to emphasize raised areas and textures. Materials: Mix of Heavy Grey, Neutral Grey, and white. Method: Gradually mix in white with the base grey mixture to create various stages of lighter shades for highlighting. Use a fine brush to apply highlights along edges, ridges, and on top of textured areas to simulate light reflection and enhance detail. This step requires a steady hand and a good eye for light placement, focusing on areas that would naturally catch light. Step 8: Deepening Shadows Objective: Deepen the shadows to enhance the 3D effect. Materials: Watered-down Corvus Black. Method: Apply this dark grey mixture into the deepest recesses and around the base of raised textures to create an illusion of depth. Use a fine brush for control and avoid flooding the details. The paint should flow into recesses but not cover the raised textures. This step enhances the contrast between the highlighted areas and the shadows, adding to the realism of the model. Step 9: Final Details Objective: Address small, fine details such as eyes, teeth, and intricate decorations. Materials: Specific colours for details like Pink Horror, Mephiston Red, etc. Method: Use the smallest brushes to carefully paint eyes, teeth, and other minute details. These details require precision and should be handled patiently to avoid errors that can detract from the overall appearance. Step 10: Finishing Touches Objective: Protect the paint job and adjust the finish according to preference. Materials: Matte or satin varnish. Method: Choose a varnish based on the desired finish (matte for less shine, satin for a slight sheen). Apply the varnish evenly to protect the paint from wear and tear and to unify the appearance of the model. Maintenance Tips: Always keep your brushes clean and well-shaped. Regularly check and mix your paints on a wet palette to maintain consistency. Adjust paint thickness based on the detail and texture desired. Video: How to Paint a Wilderfiend Necklace with NMM Metal and Skulls How to Paint a Wilderfiend Necklace with NMM Metal and Skulls Guide Materials Needed: Paints: AMMO by Mig Jimenez (White, Yellow, Brown, Basic Skin, Red), Games Workshop (Rhinox Hide, Balor Brown, Mournfang Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull) Brushes: Size 2 Artist Opus Brush, finer detail brushes as necessary Other: Water for thinning paints, wet palette, palette for mixing Step-by-Step Guide: 1. Base Coating Colour Used: Mournfang Brown Start by applying a solid base coat of Mournfang Brown to the top section of the necklace. This initial layer is not about perfection but establishing a solid foundation for further details. Ensure even coverage to avoid patchiness that can complicate later stages. 2. Adding Highlights Colours Used: Gradually add Dark Sun Yellow to Mournfang Brown Begin to introduce highlights by slowly mixing in Dark Sun Yellow into the Mournfang Brown to create a gradient effect. Concentrate this lighter mixture on areas that would naturally catch light, such as the uppermost ridges and prominent features of the necklace. This method helps to simulate the reflective properties of metal without using metallic paints. 3. Integrating Scratches and Weathering Enhance the realism of the piece by introducing fine scratches and signs of wear. Using a finer brush, alternate between the original base mix and a lighter mix with more Dark Sun Yellow. Apply these marks strategically to suggest age and use, enhancing the textured look of a battle-worn artefact. 4. Refining Highlights Colours Used: Primarily Dark Sun Yellow, mixed progressively with AMMO White for brighter highlights As you refine your highlights, shift towards using lighter mixes, culminating in nearly pure Dark Sun Yellow with touches of white. Focus these brightest highlights on the most prominent areas where light would be strongest. This step is crucial for pushing the NMM effect, giving the illusion of metallic shine. 5. Adjusting Shadows and Midtones Colours Used: Glazes of Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide Apply glazes of Mournfang Brown to smooth the transitions between the mid-tones and shadows, ensuring there are no harsh lines between colours. Use Rhinox Hide to deepen shadows in the undercuts and less exposed areas of the necklace, which helps to enhance the three-dimensional feel and adds depth to the piece. 6. Final Details and Touch-ups Revisit all previously worked areas to add final details such as sharper lines and more refined scratches. This stage is about perfecting the look, making sure every feature stands out as intended, and the overall effect is cohesive. Sometimes, this might include toning down overdone highlights or reinforcing the shadows for better contrast. 7. Painting Skulls and Additional Elements Base Coat: Start with Balor Brown for skulls and bone elements. Highlights and Texturing: Build up highlights using Morghast Bone, gradually adding Screaming Skull to the mix for the highest points. Pay special attention to textural details like teeth and eye sockets, using lighter colours to bring these features forward. The contrast between the bone and the metallic effect of the necklace should be stark, with bones appearing more matte and subdued. Techniques to Note: Glazing: This involves mixing a small amount of paint with a large portion of water to create a transparent layer that subtly shifts the tone beneath it. Stippling: Use the tip of your brush to apply small dots of paint, creating a textured effect that mimics the irregular surface of metals and worn materials. Dry Brushing: Gently drag a dry brush with minimal paint over raised textures to highlight edges and details quickly. If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials aside from my How to Paint a Wilderfiend with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes

This is another video looking at Sekhar the vampire, this time focusing on how to paint a skeleton with glowing eyes for the model on her base. This video looks at the skeleton, how to paint his glowing eyes, sword and bones etc. The whole model is covered! Video: How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes Materials needed: Skeleton ModelPriming spray (I’ve used black!) Brushes:I use the Artist Opus range of brushesFine detail brushMedium-sized brushLarge brush (optional, for basecoating larger areas) Wet Palette (for mixing and thinning paints)Varnish (to protect the finished paint job) Paints:All paints mentioned are from Games Workshop’s Citadel range. Yriel Yellow Moot Green Balor Brown Morghast Bone Screaming Skull Mournfang Brown XV-88 Rhinox Hide Other Materials: Rocks or pebblesFoliage (such as static grass or miniature leaves)Sand or texture paste (for ground texture)Super glue (for attaching basing materials)Water (for thinning paints)Paper towels or cloth to ensure your brushes are totally clean! How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes – Step 1: Priming Prime your model with a suitable undercoat. Black is recommended as it provides a good base for both the glowing effects and the shadowed recesses of the skeleton. Step 2: Base Coating Skeleton: Apply a thin base coat of XV-88 over the entire skeleton. Ensure the paint is thinned with water to maintain detail. Eyes: Start by painting the eye sockets with Kimera White. Given the deep recesses, apply multiple thin layers to build up a solid white base. Patience is key here to avoid a textured look. Step 3: Adding Depth to Eyes Mix Yriel Yellow with Kimera White to create a pale yellow. Carefully fill in the eye sockets, leaving the deepest part still white to simulate glow. Gradually add more Yriel Yellow towards the front of the eye sockets, intensifying the colour as you move forwards. Define the edges of the sockets with Moot Green to enhance the glow effect, blending it slightly into the yellow for a smooth transition. Step 4: Skeletal Detailing General Bone Texture: Lightly dry brush the skeleton with a mixture of Mournfang Brown and XV-88 to bring out the texture. Enhanced Details: Use Morghast Bone to highlight edges and raised details across the bones. Deepening Shadows: Mix Rhinox Hide with a small amount of black to create shadows in the deeper recesses and under the bones for added depth. Step 5: Sword and Metallic Effects Base Coat: Apply Neutral Grey as a base for the sword and any metallic elements. Weathering: Add scratch effects using Troll Slayer Orange mixed with Mournfang Brown to simulate rust and age. Highlights: Use Screaming Skull to pick out edges and features, giving the impression of worn, yet still sharp, metal. Step 6: Final Touches Refining Glows: Go back to the eyes, adding pure Yriel Yellow to the centres and intensifying the green at the edges if necessary. Blending and Smoothing: Use glazes of the base colours to smooth out transitions and unify the appearance, particularly around the eye sockets and on the sword to blend the rust effects. Contrasting Details: For a final layer of detail, use Screaming Skull to highlight teeth, knuckles, and other small bone protrusions, adding a subtle layer of Rhinox Hide for ageing. Step 7: Sealing the Model Once fully satisfied with your painting, seal the model with a matte varnish to protect your work and reduce any unwanted shininess, ensuring the skeletal figure looks as haunting in the display case as it does on the battlefield. Explore more of my Golden Demon entry tutorials If you don’t have an account here on my website, please sign up here! I have over 350 video tutorials in addition to my How to Paint a Skeleton with Glowing Eyes, with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

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