How to Paint Nurgle Stained Leather

How to Paint Nurgle Stained Leather on the Lord of Poxes!

My latest video is How to Paint Nurgle Stained Leather on the Lord of Poxes! In this deep-dive, we’re zooming in on painting leather the right kind of wrong: flayed, crusty, dried-out, and gross, but still painterly. Whether it’s a pouch, a binding, or a rotted belt, this method gives it depth, warmth, and that Nurgle-appropriate level of decay.

Video: How to Paint Nurgle Stained Leather on the Lord of Poxes!

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Paints You’ll Need

Games Workshop

  • Mournfang Brown
  • Cadian Fleshtone

AK Interactive

  • Golden Olive
  • Ice Yellow
  • White
  • Burnt Red
  • Grey Green

Brushes and Tools

  • A good-sized brush with a strong tip (I used Artis Opus Size 4)
  • Optional: small detail brush for edge texture
  • Palette for mixing tones and thinning glazes
  • Glazing medium if you prefer smoother transitions

The Approach

This isn’t leather like you’d paint on an Imperial Guard boot. This is Nurgle leather. It’s been there for centuries, possibly made of something sentient, and it needs to feel:

  • Cracked
  • Dry
  • Alive… but just barely

We’re not blending so much as breaking up surfaces. Think of it as impressionistic grime.

Step-by-Step: Painting Cracked Leather

1. Basecoat

Mix Mournfang Brown + Golden Olive (1:1)

  • This gives a warm, greenish-brown base that already feels unhealthy.
  • Apply neatly across all leather areas: straps, pouch, bindings.
  • You want good opacity here—use two thin coats if needed.

2. Establish Texture with Midtones

Add Cadian Fleshtone into your base mix

  • Start layering this onto raised sections with a soft stippling motion. Don’t aim for full coverage—think patchy, cracked weathering.
  • Use the side of your brush or a light tapping motion.

Tip: Let the direction of the brush follow the grain of the leather. Horizontal for belts, vertical for pouches, curved for bindings.

3. Define Cracks and Edges

Add Ice Yellow to your mix for edge definition

  • Apply thin, broken lines along the edges of straps and across surface ridges.
  • Vary the pressure—light flicks work better than steady lines.

Optional: Add tiny dots and “crack flecks” on pouches and strap centres using your detail brush and a lighter tone. You’re simulating that stretched, dried-out cracking you get on untreated hide.

4. Punch in the Highlights

Highlight with Ice Yellow + White (2:1)

  • These are for the most exposed spots: the top edge of a belt, corners of pouches, raised folds.
  • Keep the placement tight and the lines broken. Full outlines kill the effect—go for interrupted flicks and partial edges.

5. Warm Up the Shadows

Glaze Burnt Red into the recesses and undersides

  • This adds life and heat—a sickly undertone that works brilliantly against the greeny base.
  • Let it pool in strap overlaps, folds, or under fastenings.

Pro Tip: Don’t blend this out fully. A bit of red pooling adds narrative and that nice fleshy undertone.

6. Desaturate and Foul It Up

Thin Grey Green and glaze over some areas

  • This kills the warmth and adds that mildewed, necrotic feel.
  • Use this sparingly over larger areas that feel too warm or tidy.
  • You can glaze to instantly tone it down and age it up.

7. Optional Final Touch – Dried Edge Crust

Take your highlight mix (Ice Yellow + White) and lightly drybrush or stipple around the very outer edges of leather surfaces.

  • Use a near-dry brush.
  • Focus on strap ends, corners of the pouch, or cracked surfaces.
  • This gives a flaky, crusted effect like salt or rot crust.

Final Tips

  • More broken than blended – let your brush marks show. They help with texture.
  • Don’t unify your colours too much. A little warmth here, a little mildew there—it makes it feel real.
  • Paint like the leather smells. If it feels like you wouldn’t want to touch it, you’re on the right track.
Death Guard
These videos will show you how to paint a Death Guard Space Marine, specifically from the Space Marine Heroes collection. These guides will focus on creating a textured, decayed look characteristic of the Death Guard, using various stippling techniques. Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part OneMaterials NeededStepsTipsVideo – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part TwoAdditional Painting StepsAdditional TipsMore Death Guard Tutorials to Explore!Free Video Tutorials Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part One Materials Needed Paints: Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Rhinox Hide, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Khorne Red, Volupus Pink, Fire Dragon Bright, (alternatively Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for copper effect) Vallejo: Ice Yellow, (alternatively Old Rose and Salmon Rose) Brushes: A variety of sizes, including stippling brushes (Artist Opus dry brush or makeup brushes can be used) Primer: Black primer (Ultimate Primer recommended) Palette: For mixing colours Water pot: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes Steps Priming and Base Texture: Prime the model in black. Start stippling texture onto the armour using Balor Brown. Ensure the paint is diluted (about 50% water) to achieve translucency and avoid excessive build-up. Layering the Texture: Continue building texture with Morghast Bone, focusing on areas where light naturally hits. Aim for a top-left light perspective. Dilute your paints as you stipple, gradually building up layers for a controlled, textured effect. Detailing with Contrast Paint: Apply Volupus Pink to recesses and bubbly areas on the armour for quick coverage. This helps in defining those decayed spots distinct to Death Guard armour. Base Colour for Trims and Metals: Paint all trims and metal areas with watered-down Rhinox Hide. This acts as a base for later metallic effects. Non-Metallic Metal (NMM) Effect: For a non-metallic metal look, mix Old Rose with Rhinox Hide and Salmon Rose with Ice Yellow. Layer these mixes to create a copper-like effect, adding Mournfang Brown for warmth. Highlighting Armour and Details: Use Screaming Skull to push highlights on the armour. Concentrate on areas like the chest, head, and shoulder pads to draw focus. Stippling Screaming Skull provides a more opaque highlight. For the pus boils, start with Balor Brown and build up layers with Fist Red for veins. Add Morghast Bone and Screaming Skull for highlights, creating a shiny, reflective surface. Painting Fungus and Red Details: Base the fungus-like growths with Khorne Red. Create a gradient effect by mixing Khorne Red with Fire Dragon Bright, then highlight with Ice Yellow for a vibrant contrast against the armour. Tips Patience is Key: Death Guard models are detailed, so take your time to add depth and texture. Light Source Consistency: Ensure the light source remains consistent across the model for a cohesive look. Layering: Gradual layering helps create a more realistic texture, particularly for the decayed look of the Death Guard. Brush Care: Clean brushes thoroughly between colours, especially when working with stippling techniques. Video – How To Paint: Death Guard Space Marine : Part Two Continuing from Part 1, let’s delve into completing the Death Guard Space Marine with a focus on the gun, additional weathering effects, and other details. We’ll be using a variety of techniques to add depth and character to the model. Additional Painting Steps Gun and Metallics: Start with Bugman’s Glow and Cadian Fleshtone for a coppery effect. Apply these colours to the gun, focusing on light placement and creating non-metallic metal effects. Use Mournfang Brown and Ice Yellow for richer copper tones. Ensure smooth transitions and consistent light reflection. Weathering and Verdigris Effect: For added realism, apply verdigris using Sotek Green. Mix with water (approx. 6-7 parts water to 1 part paint) and apply it to recessed areas and around details for an oxidized look. Add layers of Sotek Green mixed with white for a more pronounced effect. Apply sparingly to avoid overpowering the metallic sheen. Highlighting and Details: Highlight the gun and metallic parts with Ice Yellow and a touch of white for glare effects. Be cautious with paint consistency to avoid unwanted textures. Address the back of the model similarly, but you can opt for brighter highlights as this part is often in shadow during gameplay. Painting the Backpack and Tentacles: For the backpack’s tentacle-like extensions, use a mix of Pink Horror, Emperor’s Children, and Fulgrim Pink. Stipple on these colours to create a mottled, organic texture. Use Averland Sunset or a similar yellow for raised pustules, adding depth and contrast to the tentacles. Green Goo Effect: Paint any dripping goo with Moot Green, applying in layers to create a luminous, toxic effect. Highlight edges with Ice Yellow for added vibrancy. Finishing Touches: Utilize Corvus Black for deepening shadows and refining details. Water down the paint and apply it as a glaze to enhance contrast and soften textures. For the final highlights, focus on the model’s focal points, such as the head, chest, and weapon, ensuring they draw the viewer’s attention. Additional Tips Layering: Build up your colours gradually for a more natural and controlled effect. Light Source: Keep the light source consistent across the model for a cohesive appearance. Weathering Techniques: Experiment with weathering to add character. Verdigris and rust effects can significantly enhance the decayed look of the Death Guard. Patience: Take your time with details, especially on focal points, to make them stand out. Brush Care: Maintain your brushes, especially when working with techniques that can be hard on them, like stippling and dry brushing. More Death Guard Tutorials to Explore! Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “freebies” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
This video shows how to paint a Grimdark Grimy Death Guard for the Horus Heresy. The model is a new MKIII plastic marine and is painted in the Grimdark style to try and capture the weight and brutal nature of the armour. The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Balor Brown, Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, Mephiston Red, Wildrider Red, Yriel Yellow, Contrast Darkoath Flesh, Contrast Medium, Rhinox Hide, Agrax Earthshade Vallejo: Heavy Blackgreen, Ice Yellow P3: Morrow White (Any white will do) Kimera Colours: Black (Any black will do) Pro Acryl: Light Bronze Metallic, Rich Gold Metallic Top Grimdark Grimy Death Guard Tips!: Prepare Your Palette: Utilize a wet palette to maintain paint hydration.For the initial dry brushing, use Balor Brown from Games Workshop on a wet palette.Choose the Right Brush:Select a small dry brush, like the Artis Opus dry brush, for the stippling technique.Stippling Technique:Diverge from traditional dry brushing; instead, stipple the paint onto the model.Aim for a disheveled, grimy, and weathered appearance.Start with Balor Brown, advancing to lighter hues like Morghast Bone, Screaming Skull, and Yriel Yellow for a textured effect.Application Method:Stipple the paint directly onto the model, concentrating on armour panels.Rotate the model as you paint to ensure each section dries before revisiting.Focus on hitting the model face-on with the brush to create a textured, dotty buildup.Chipping Effect:For chipping effects, use Rhinox Hide with a sponge chipping technique.Contemplate hand-painting some scratches for added detail.Accentuating Details:Employ a fine brush for details like scratches and chips.Highlight specific armour panels for added depth.Contrast and Weathering:Apply Darkoath Flesh contrast paint mixed with contrast medium to unify the your Grimdark Grimy Death Guard.Experiment with adding more brightness by layering appropriately watered-down contrast paints.Highlighting and Shadows: Highlight edges using Morrow White from P3.Contemplate applying washes like Agrax Earthshade to blend highlights and shadows.Use Ice Yellow from Vallejo for specific details, building up the colour gradually.Fine-Tune Highlights:Use a finer brush to refine highlights and correct any over-spill.Introduce Agrax Earthshade for added depth in recessed areas.Final Touches:Experiment with Wildrider Red and Mephiston Red from Games Workshop for added details.Apply a matte varnish to seal the paint job.Consider adding additional details to your Grimdark Grimy Death Guard like basing with textures and powders. If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus tips and PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
A guide on painting the Deathshroud Armour. PDF Tutorial This guide details how to achieve the green armour effect on the Deathshroud terminator as seen in the photograph above. The techniques are straight forward with the exception of the stippling on the Deathshroud armour requiring a fairly high level of precision. What’s Covered in the Guide: Materials and Paints: Discover the paints used in this project, including Games Workshop and other recommended alternatives. The guide offers using similar tones if the exact paints are not available. Preparation and Priming: Learn how to prime the model grey to help the green paint show clearly but not as vibrantly as it would on a white primer. The guide covers both airbrushing and hand-painting techniques for the base colour. Shading and Highlighting: Detailed steps on shading with Elysian Green mixed with Rhinox Hide, including advanced techniques for shadow placement. The guide also covers highlighting using a mix of Elysian Green and Nurgling Green, as well as edge highlighting with straight Nurgling Green. Wet Blending and Glazing: Techniques for achieving smooth transitions between colours using wet blending and glazing. The guide provides tips on blending for a slightly rough, dirty look suitable for Death Shroud Terminators. Stippling Technique: Instructions for stippling with Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown to add texture and mask imperfections in transitions. The guide includes a tip on modifying a detail brush to make dotting easier. Final Touches: Tips for applying a red glaze to blend the stippling and transitions further, creating depth and a smooth finish. The guide also discusses adding subtle red details around specific areas for a more organic look. Additional Features: High-Quality Images: The guide includes high-resolution images to illustrate each step, providing clear visual references to help you achieve the best results. Professional Tips: Benefit from Richard Gray’s expert tips and tricks to enhance your painting skills and improve your techniques. Efficient Techniques: Learn faster methods to achieve professional results, such as glazing and highlighting techniques for detailed work. Each step is designed to help you achieve high-quality results, making your models stand out. Whether you’re preparing for tabletop gaming or creating display pieces, this guide will enhance your painting techniques and bring your models to life. Download the full guide and start painting your Death Shroud Terminators today! If the below link does not work, please go here to download! DeathShroudArmourPDFforPatreon More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide Video Tutorials Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard A series of video tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Watch Now If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
In this video and written guide, we look at how to Paint the Lord of Poxes, specifically his textured Death Guard Armour, from the new Poxwrought Vector Battleforce – a delightfully bloated centrepiece model sent by Games Workshop as a review copy. This first part focuses purely on the armour, using textured brushwork and light volume highlighting to create a dirty, fleshy, Nurgle-infused finish. Using a combination of Mournfang Brown for the base and Golden Olive, Cadian Fleshtone, and Ice Yellow for successive highlights, we explore how to build up texture with deliberate roughness and control. I discusses brush handling, lighting logic, and tonal balance, especially how to ensure the model’s large, flat panels don’t become dull or lifeless. There’s also a touch of Burnt Red glazing at the end to give the armour a grimy, corrupted feel, leaning into the lore of the Death Guard’s decaying, living warplate. Video: How to Paint the Lord of Poxes Part One Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone AK Interactive: Golden Olive, Ice Yellow, Burnt Red Brushes: Artis Opus Series M, sizes 00, 1, and 4 Step by Step – How to Paint the Lord of Poxes – Textured Death Guard Armour Step 1: Prime and Base Layer Prime the model black. Airbrush (or paint) a base layer of Mournfang Brown. This sets a warm, earthy tone that adds depth and grime under later highlights. Step 2: First Highlights – Start Defining Light Volumes Mix Mournfang Brown with AK Golden Olive. Using a large brush (Artis Opus Size 4 recommended), begin loosely stippling on highlights where light would hit – shoulders, chest, tops of legs. Be generous with coverage. These early highlights should establish large light areas. Step 3: Pure Golden Olive Switch to pure Golden Olive and begin layering it over the previously highlighted areas, building stronger light volumes. Use loose, scratchy marks to create a sense of wear and surface texture. If you want a more classic green Death Guard look, you could stop here. Step 4: Midtone Texture – Add Cadian Fleshtone Mix Golden Olive with Cadian Fleshtone. Use this mix to add textured mid-highlights across the light-facing areas of the armour. Try switching to a smaller brush (like Size 00) for finer texture and variation. Step 5: Strengthen Highlights Layer in more Cadian Fleshtone to the mix, gradually pushing your highlights lighter. You can also dot and scratch small marks into shadowy areas for extra weathering effects. Step 6: Brightest Highlights Mix Cadian Fleshtone with a small amount of Ice Yellow for the final highlight stage. Gently stipple or scratch this on to the very brightest points – top of the chest, shoulders, head. If it feels too bright or stark, you can soften the edges by glazing back over with Cadian Fleshtone. Step 7: Glaze for Warmth and Depth Thin AK Burnt Red heavily (around 4–5 parts water to 1 part paint). Use a large brush to glaze it into the recesses and shadows, avoiding the brightest highlights. Build up several gentle layers to tint the armour with a subtle grimy warmth and tie the tones together. Final Tips on How to Paint the Lord of Poxes Don’t worry if some transitions feel rough—this technique thrives on texture and subtle layering. Think of the armour as part-corrupted flesh, not just dirty plate. Let that guide your colour and texture choices. You can push the organic feel further with veins or subtle cast shadows in later stages. Video: How to Paint the Lord of Poxes Part Two This is Part 2 of the Lord of Poxes Death Guard painting tutorial. In this video, we continue working on the armour (from Part 1), with a focus on: Additional bounce lighting on side panels and helmet Non-metallic metal (NMM) face trim and steel surfaces Rust and verdigris weathering Shading and highlighting the eyes Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop: Mournfang Brown Cadian Fleshtone Sotek Green Sybarite Green Mephiston Red Evil Sunz Scarlet AK Interactive: Golden Olive Ice Yellow Burnt Red White Grey Green Deep Orange Brushes: Size 4 Artis Opus (for broad glazing and smooth transitions) Size 00 (for fine NMM and facial details) Step-by-Step Painting Guide 1. Side Panel Armour & Helmet Edge These areas sit outside the golden angle, so they’re highlighted with reduced brightness to preserve composition. Base mix: Golden Olive + Mournfang Brown (50:50) Layer progression: Golden Olive Golden Olive + Cadian Fleshtone Cadian Fleshtone Cadian Fleshtone + Ice Yellow (Optional: pure Ice Yellow on golden angle highlights only) Burnt Red Glaze: Thin (4–5 parts water) to tint and blend highlights. Tip: Bounce lighting on side armour adds realism without competing for attention—keep it subtle. 2. NMM Bronze Face Trim Base: Mephiston Red + Cadian Fleshtone Highlights: Cadian Fleshtone Cadian Fleshtone + Ice Yellow Ice Yellow Glaze: Very thin Deep Orange (4–5 parts water) Final Edge Highlights: Touch up with Ice Yellow or White for key shine points 3. Verdigris Weathering (Face Trim) Mix: 50:50 Sotek Green + Sybarite Green Application: Thin 3:1 or more with water, focus on recesses and darker sections Optional Highlight: Add AK White to the mix for a second pass of denser corrosion effects Note: Lighter verdigris works better on brighter areas, darker verdigris for shadowed recesses. 4. The Eyes Left Eye (forward-facing): Highlighted to almost white Right Eye (tilted down): Strong red tones, darker shading Paint order: Mephiston Red Evil Sunz Scarlet Evil Sunz Scarlet + Ice Yellow Final glint: Ice Yellow or White 5. NMM Steel (Face Apparatus & Tubes) Base: Grey Green Highlights: Grey Green + White Progressively more White Rust Glazing: Mournfang Brown (thin, 4–5:1 water) Deep Orange (similarly thinned) Final Touches: Reapply small white dots for shine if needed Pro Tip: Bounce lights in this area can be tinted with Golden Olive + Cadian Fleshtone to reflect surrounding armour. Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
Learn how to paint the Deathshroud Scythe wrap for the Death Shroud Terminators with this straightforward painting guide. The techniques detailed are accessible, with only the fine detailing requiring specific brush control skills. What’s covered in the Deathshroud Scythe wrap guide: Materials and Paints: Discover the paints used in this project, including products from Games Workshop and P3. While specific paints are listed, the guide emphasizes that similar colours from other brands can be used to create the necessary transitions from dark brown to white. Initial Base Coating: The guide begins with painting the entire wrap using Mournfang Brown. The light reflection on the paint is noted as useful for later highlighting stages. Layering Highlights: Learn how to paint each section of the wrap with Bestigor Flesh, ensuring to leave gaps of Mournfang Brown for separation. This stage sets the foundation for the subsequent detailing work. Detailing: Instructions for adding detailed highlights using Menoth White Base (or your choice of ivory). The guide includes painting edge highlights and horizontal lines on each section, creating a visually striking wrap. Adding Final Highlights: Tips for applying pure white highlights to pick out specific details along the wrap. The guide stresses maintaining the separation lines and ensuring the dirty effect from the initial layers remains visible. Glazing for Shading: The final step involves using Rhinox Hide for glazing to create smooth, subtle shadows. This technique enhances the depth and realism of the wrap while preserving the previously applied highlights. Additional Features: High-Quality Images: The guide includes high-resolution images to illustrate each step, providing clear visual references to help you achieve the best results. Efficient Techniques: Learn faster methods to achieve professional results, such as glazing and highlighting techniques for detailed work. Download the full guide below and start painting your Deathshroud Terminators today! Please wait for the below PDF to load. Alternatively, you can download it here. DeathShroudScytheWrapForPatreon More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide Video Tutorials Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard A series of video tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Watch Now More Nurgle Tutorials: If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
Horn Painting Guide. PDF Tutorial How to paint a Nurgle horn with texture on a Deathshroud Terminator. – Richard Download the Horn Painting Guide Please wait for the PDF below to load to view, or download it here. About the Guide In this detailed guide I meticulously explain the process of painting a horn on a Death Shroud terminator model, emphasising brush control and the right consistency of paint. The tutorial progresses through six stages, including colour banding, blending, and highlighting, with tips on brush selection and technique. It’s good resource for model painters keen on improving their skills in adding realistic textures and details to their Nurgle model and is filled with practical advice, making complex techniques accessible to painters at various skill levels. More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide Video Tutorials Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard A series of video tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Watch Now More Nurgle Tutorials If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
This video shows you how to paint a Death Guard marine for the Horus Heresy. This guide incorporates a mix of airbrushing and traditional painting techniques, ideal for achieving a weathered, battle-hardened look. Death Guard Horus Heresy – Video All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely. You can also click the little “cog” and change the speed of the video, if I am going too fast (or slow!). Materials Required: Death Guard Marine miniature, primed black Airbrush and Tamiya X20A thinner Paints: Games Workshop’s Mournfang Brown, Ionrach Skin, Yriel Yellow, Mephiston Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Rhinox Hide, Moot Green, Mortarion Grime (Shade), Vallejo’s Black, Burnt Iron Metal Colour, Pure White, and P3’s Iosen Green Brushes, including a large brush for applying washes and a fine detail brush Painting Steps: Base Coat: Apply Mournfang Brown using an airbrush, thinned with Tamiya X20A to ensure smooth application. If an airbrush is unavailable, a brown primer can be used as an alternative. Secondary Coat: Airbrush Ionrach Skin over the model. If the paint speckles, add more thinner to achieve a smooth finish. Focus on armour panels, allowing some brown to show in recesses for depth. Highlighting: Use Vallejo Pure White, thinned more heavily than the previous layers, to highlight areas such as the head, chest, and shoulder pads. Be selective, as the right shoulder pad will be painted green later. Metallic Parts: Paint all metal parts with Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour. For better control and to prevent the paint from flowing into unwanted areas, let it thicken slightly in a palette before use. Black Areas: Use a black contrast paint to cover areas like the shoulder pad. This can be done with a large brush for speed and efficiency. A couple of coats may be needed for full coverage. Green Shoulder Pad: Airbrush Iosen Green onto the left shoulder pad, gradually adding Yriel Yellow to the mix for a bright front highlight, creating a transition from bright to dark. Shading: Saturate the model with Mortarion Grime shade using a large brush. Ensure an even coat and avoid pooling. The shade will naturally darken recesses and enhance details. Chipping Effect: Apply Rhinox Hide to simulate chips and wear on the armour. Focus on edges and surfaces that would naturally see wear and tear. This step adds realism to the model. Highlighting Chips: Using Vallejo Pure White, highlight the lower edges of the chips to create a three-dimensional effect. This step is particularly effective in making the chipping stand out. Weapon Details: Highlight the gun with Neutral Grey by Vallejo, focusing on upward-facing edges and adding scratches for realism. This adds contrast and depth to the weapon. Glowing Red Eyes: Start with Mephiston Red, followed by Troll Slayer Orange, and then highlight with Yriel Yellow. Finish with a small dot of Pure White in the centre for a glowing effect. Final Touches: Apply light highlights of Vallejo Burnt Iron Metal Colour on metallic surfaces for extra sheen. Use Forge World Dark Sand weathering powder on the feet for a dusty look. Tips for Success: Ensure smooth transitions when airbrushing by adjusting paint consistency. Use the chipping technique to add character and age to the model. Focus on focal points like the head and chest for your brightest highlights. Experiment with the thickness of your paint for different effects; thicker paint can achieve sharper lines and highlights. Be mindful of the lore and aesthetic of the Death Guard when choosing colours, especially for details like the eye lenses. Remember, the goal is to create a visually striking model that embodies the rugged and corroded nature of the Death Guard. Show it off! As you progress, feel free to adapt and tweak techniques to suit your style. Good luck! When you’ve finished, why not pop into our Discord and show it off to other website members? 🙂 Free Video Tutorials Free videos for logged in members – just sign up as a ‘friend’ to view and click any of the thumbs.To explore all of these, visit this page! If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials, plus step by step guides and PDFs. You can explore more free videos with a free “friend” membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
How to paint a Deathshroud Terminator Cloak using freehand. This model won me a Golden Demon in 2017! These models represent the grotesque and decay-themed warriors of Nurgle, a faction known for their resilience and corrupted, plague-ridden aesthetics. So, in these tutorials we are aiming to enhance the models’ appearance with detailed faces and textures on their cloaks! Quick note here – these are some of my earliest tutorial videos, so are not of the same quality as my current tutorials visually and sound-wise. My apologies for this.Richard Video: Deathshroud Terminator Red Cloak This process results in a textured, worn cloak suitable for a Death Shroud Terminator, using a simple but effective painting technique. Materials and Paints Used Gal Vorbak Red (Forge World) Cadian Fleshtone (Games Workshop) Eldandil Violet (Scalecolour Fantasy) Step by Step Guide Base Coat: Start with Gal Vorbak Red as the primary colour. Detailing and Texture: Use Cadian Fleshtone for adding highlights and texture, creating a worn and mouldy appearance. Shading: Apply Eldandil Violet for shading in the recesses, enhancing depth and wear. Glazing with Evil Sunz Scarlet: Use it as a glaze to add warmth to the cloak. Refining Texture: Focus on cross-hatching movements to build texture, emphasizing the worn look. Final Touches: Add further glazes and highlights to refine the texture and depth, tailoring the effect to your desired level of detail. Video: Deathshroud Terminator Cloak Freehand Materials and Paints Used The following paints were used:Games Workshop: Rhinox Hide Vallejo: Heavy Brown, Cork Brown, Ice Yellow, Black P3: Battlefield Brown *Note, Morrow White was not actually used in this video, but is used in part 2. Step by Step Guide Preparation: I used a test model to experiment with my design concept. This approach allows you to refine the freehand pattern before applying it to the main models. Base Colours: Apply Vallejo Heavy Brown as a foundational colour. Enhance the base with Cork Brown for a richer texture. Use Rhinox Hide to outline the design, ensuring the lines are crisp and distinct. Detailing: Carefully mark the eye sockets with black paint, paying attention to the cloak’s folds. These details will add depth and character to the freehand design. Highlighting: Utilize Ice Yellow for highlights. This step involves blending the highlights with the base colors to achieve a natural, integrated look. The highlights should accentuate the topography of the cloak and enhance the freehand design. Shading: Use Battlefield Brown to deepen the shadows and add complexity to the design. This shade will create a more dynamic and realistic appearance on the cloak. Finishing Touches: Review the entire design, making final adjustments for consistency and balance. Focus on refining the freehand artwork, ensuring it harmonizes with the cloak’s texture and the overall theme of the model. Video: Deathshroud Terminator Cloak Freehand Refinement Materials and Paints Used The following paints were used: Games Workshop: Cadian Fleshtone, Pallid Wych Flesh, Bugman’s Glow, Rhinox Hide, Loren Forest, Nurgling Green, Vallejo: Ice Yellow, Cork Brown, Black, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue, Heavy Brown P3: Battlefield Brown, Morrow White Step by Step Guide Base Preparation: Start by painting a rough base of fleshy shapes using Cadian Fleshtone. This initial layer doesn’t need to be perfect or smooth. Detailing Ears and Face: Add ears to distinguish the image from a skull, creating a more zombie-like face. Use Kadeem Flesh Tone for this step. Sketching Flesh and Bone: Sketch out areas where flesh appears torn or missing, revealing bone underneath. This technique enhances the undead appearance and integrates the existing skull highlights. Adding White Highlights: Use Pallid Wych Flesh to accentuate bone areas, making them stand out from the flesh tone. Painting the Eyes: Employ Neutral Grey, followed by Pale Grey Blue for the eyes. Add white dots in the center and top left corner of each eye for a lifelike effect. Mouth and Teeth Details: Refine the mouth and teeth using Rhinox Hide and Ice Yellow for highlights. Focus on defining the teeth shapes and adding depth to the mouth. Adding Texture to Flesh: Use Bugman’s Glow and other flesh tones to create textured, worn skin. Apply these tones in layers, allowing the underlying skull details to peek through. Final Touches: Finish by adding fine details and additional highlights to enhance the depth and realism of the freehand design. The key to this process is building up the layers gradually, refining the details as you go, a More Deathshroud Tutorials How to Paint Deathshroud ArmourDeathshroud Scythe Handle WrappingDeathshroud Terminator Cloak FreehandHorn Painting Guide All Deathshroud Bodyguard Video Tutorials Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard A series of video tutorials on how I painted my set of Golden Demon winning Death Guard Deathshroud Bodyguard! This includes nurgly armour, weathering, rust, metals, tentacles, freehand and more! Watch Now More Freehand Tips: If you don’t have an account, please sign up here! The website currently has over 350 video tutorials with steps and tips, plus a selection of PDFs. If you are not sure about joining, you can explore my free videos with a free membership, or take the plunge and become a full subscriber for full access. If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
In this third part of the Lord of Poxes tutorial series, we shift focus to a small but visually rich section of the model: the belly pouch (affectionately dubbed the “ham pouch”) and the metallic canister it holds. This stage introduces new surfaces, tones, and NMM effects, offering a more fleshy, warm palette to contrast with the grimy armour shown in earlier parts. “Even though it’s a small part of the model, I wanted this area to have its own identity. The fabric is unusually clean for Nurgle, but I offset that with colour variation and subtle staining. The canister gave me a chance to add another distinct metal tone, building contrast across the figure.”– Richard Video: How to Paint the Lord of Poxes Ham Pouch and Metal Canister Paints and Materials Games Workshop Mournfang Brown Mephiston Red Rhinox Hide Sotek Green Sybarite Green AK Interactive Grey Green Ice Yellow Pastel Pink White Deep Orange Sahara Yellow Sand Yellow Brushes Artis Opus Series M – Size 4, 1, 00 Optional: 000 for final glazes Step by Step – How to Paint the Lord of Poxes Ham Pouch and Metal Canister Step 1: Basecoat the pouch Use AK Grey Green, thinned with water. Apply 3–4 smooth coats for an opaque, even finish. Aim for a clean look here to contrast with the rest of the gritty model. Step 2: Build soft highlights Mix Grey Green with Pastel Pink in increasing amounts. Work up to almost pure Pastel Pink for the brightest areas. Apply with progressively smaller brushes (Size 4 → 1 → 00). Use fine feathered strokes to keep the transitions gentle. Highlight curved areas and raised folds with precision. Step 3: Add soft glazing Make a glaze using Mephiston Red (around 1:5 paint to water). Apply it into the recesses and over highlighted areas for warmth. Follow with targeted glazes of Rhinox Hide and Mournfang Brown to deepen shadows and add richness. Always glaze towards the shadowed area, not over the highlights. Step 4: Start the canister base Return to Grey Green, but this time allow some texture. Stipple and drag to create rougher texture compared to the pouch. Focus your light placement using the “golden angle” – where the viewer will mostly see the model. Step 5: Highlight the metal Mix Grey Green with Ice Yellow. Use fine strokes and stippling to simulate worn NMM. Place a sharp bounce highlight on the underside and near reflective surfaces. For darker shadows, glaze in Rhinox Hide selectively. Step 6: Paint the bronze nozzle Basecoat with a mix of Sahara Yellow and Mournfang Brown. Build up highlights with: Sahara Yellow Then Sand Yellow Finally Ice Yellow for edge brightness Use scratchy texture or layered lines to keep it metallic. Step 7: Add verdigris Mix Sotek Green and Sybarite Green (50/50), heavily thinned. Stipple gently with a Size 00 brush. Optionally, add a touch of white for subtle contrast. Apply over darker bronze areas to simulate oxidised metal. Pro Tips Use a hairdryer to dry glazes faster and prevent tide marks. Don’t glaze over pure white highlights – they’ll go chalky. Texture varies by surface – keep the pouch smooth, but add scratches and speckles to the canister. The “ham pouch” is a perfect place to test fleshy blends before using them on organic elements elsewhere. Want to paint his armour? Learn how to paint textured, grimy armour for the Lord of Poxes using a blend of warm greens and corrupted flesh tones. Watch Now Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
In this video and written guide, we tackle how to paint the Death Guard Lord of Poxes shoulder pad, covering a range of advanced techniques: NMM copper trim, verdigris weathering, a glowing red wound, and a new green tone for the shoulder armour. This stage builds on the rich surface textures of earlier videos while introducing new visual interest. Video: How to Paint the Lord of Poxes Shoulder Pad, NMM, Verdigris and Wound Paints and Materials Used Games Workshop Mournfang Brown Rhinox Hide Sotek Green Sybarite Green Mephiston Red Evil Sunz Scarlet Cadian Fleshtone AK Interactive Ice Yellow Sahara Yellow Sand Yellow White Sunny Skin Tone Deep Orange Step by Step – How to Paint the Lord of Poxes – Shoulder Pad, NMM, Verdigris & Wound NMM Copper Shoulder Trim Basecoat Start with a mix of Mephiston Red + Cadian Fleshtone and cover the trim opaquely. Build the highlights through layers of: Cadian Fleshtone Cadian Fleshtone + Sunny Skin Tone Sunny Skin Tone Sand Yellow Ice Yellow 🔧 Tip: Over-highlight large curved areas to account for colour knock-back during glazing and verdigris. Detail & Scratches Switch to smaller brushes (down to 00) to paint subtle scratches, rivet shine dots and bounce highlights. Follow the sculpt’s subtle texture and reinforce scratches with highlight and edge glazes. Glazing and Verdigris Glazing for Warmth and Contrast Use AK Deep Orange (heavily watered) to glaze warm tones across the highlights. Add deeper shadows with Rhinox Hide, especially near recesses and lower edges. Verdigris Mix Soot Green + Sybarite Green 50/50. Apply as fine glazes, stipples, or streaks—concentrating around rivets and shaded recesses. Add a touch of white to the mix for brighter verdigris highlights. 🎨 Pro Tip: Avoid the brightest highlight points—leave them clean to maintain NMM effect. Painting the Nurgle Discs Base Metal Colour Start with Mournfang Brown + Sahara Yellow, then highlight with: Sahara Yellow Sahara Yellow + Sand Yellow Sand Yellow Ice Yellow 🔧 Note: The upper disc is brighter; the lower one carries more of the verdigris visual weight. Verdigris Application Use the same verdigris mix as the trim. Carefully stipple and streak verdigris, concentrating in recesses and around rivets. Painting the Wound (Missing Disc Socket) Colour Steps Basecoat with Mephiston Red + Evil Sunz Scarlet. Keep the shape clean and allow it to contrast strongly with the green shoulder pad. Green Shoulder Pad Armour Basecoat & Highlighting Start with Mournfang Brown + AK Golden Olive. Highlight with: Golden Olive Golden Olive + Ice Yellow Ice Yellow (optional – keep it lower than the trim’s highlight) Refinement Glaze over with a very watered-down mix of Sotek Green to push the tone greener. Optionally, add Burnt Red in lower areas for a wounded, bruised effect. 🔧 Tip: Keep highlight intensity below the NMM trim to ensure proper contrast. Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]
My latest video is How to Paint Nurgle Stained Leather on the Lord of Poxes! In this deep-dive, we’re zooming in on painting leather the right kind of wrong: flayed, crusty, dried-out, and gross, but still painterly. Whether it’s a pouch, a binding, or a rotted belt, this method gives it depth, warmth, and that Nurgle-appropriate level of decay. Video: How to Paint Nurgle Stained Leather on the Lord of Poxes! Paints You’ll Need Games Workshop Mournfang Brown Cadian Fleshtone AK Interactive Golden Olive Ice Yellow White Burnt Red Grey Green Brushes and Tools A good-sized brush with a strong tip (I used Artis Opus Size 4) Optional: small detail brush for edge texture Palette for mixing tones and thinning glazes Glazing medium if you prefer smoother transitions The Approach This isn’t leather like you’d paint on an Imperial Guard boot. This is Nurgle leather. It’s been there for centuries, possibly made of something sentient, and it needs to feel: Cracked Dry Alive… but just barely We’re not blending so much as breaking up surfaces. Think of it as impressionistic grime. Step-by-Step: Painting Cracked Leather 1. Basecoat Mix Mournfang Brown + Golden Olive (1:1) This gives a warm, greenish-brown base that already feels unhealthy. Apply neatly across all leather areas: straps, pouch, bindings. You want good opacity here—use two thin coats if needed. 2. Establish Texture with Midtones Add Cadian Fleshtone into your base mix Start layering this onto raised sections with a soft stippling motion. Don’t aim for full coverage—think patchy, cracked weathering. Use the side of your brush or a light tapping motion. Tip: Let the direction of the brush follow the grain of the leather. Horizontal for belts, vertical for pouches, curved for bindings. 3. Define Cracks and Edges Add Ice Yellow to your mix for edge definition Apply thin, broken lines along the edges of straps and across surface ridges. Vary the pressure—light flicks work better than steady lines. Optional: Add tiny dots and “crack flecks” on pouches and strap centres using your detail brush and a lighter tone. You’re simulating that stretched, dried-out cracking you get on untreated hide. 4. Punch in the Highlights Highlight with Ice Yellow + White (2:1) These are for the most exposed spots: the top edge of a belt, corners of pouches, raised folds. Keep the placement tight and the lines broken. Full outlines kill the effect—go for interrupted flicks and partial edges. 5. Warm Up the Shadows Glaze Burnt Red into the recesses and undersides This adds life and heat—a sickly undertone that works brilliantly against the greeny base. Let it pool in strap overlaps, folds, or under fastenings. Pro Tip: Don’t blend this out fully. A bit of red pooling adds narrative and that nice fleshy undertone. 6. Desaturate and Foul It Up Thin Grey Green and glaze over some areas This kills the warmth and adds that mildewed, necrotic feel. Use this sparingly over larger areas that feel too warm or tidy. You can glaze to instantly tone it down and age it up. 7. Optional Final Touch – Dried Edge Crust Take your highlight mix (Ice Yellow + White) and lightly drybrush or stipple around the very outer edges of leather surfaces. Use a near-dry brush. Focus on strap ends, corners of the pouch, or cracked surfaces. This gives a flaky, crusted effect like salt or rot crust. Final Tips More broken than blended – let your brush marks show. They help with texture. Don’t unify your colours too much. A little warmth here, a little mildew there—it makes it feel real. Paint like the leather smells. If it feels like you wouldn’t want to touch it, you’re on the right track. Videos Not Showing? To view any of my paid tutorials, you need to be a member of the website – please click below to log in or join the site. Not sure about joining just yet? Check out my Youtube for all my free tutorials or sign up as a free “friend” member on this site and visit the free videos page! If you’d prefer to support me on Patreon, please visit: https://www.patreon.com/RichardGray [...]

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