In this first part of the how to paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor tutorial, we’re focusing on the initial airbrush setup, the fluffy cloak, the non-metallic trim, face, and the red hat. This guide uses a mixture of AK Interactive, Vallejo, and Games Workshop paints, with detailed notes on blending, glazing, and brush technique.
Video: How to Paint a Blood and Zeal Confessor
Paints & Materials Used
Airbrush Stage:
- AK Soch Green
- AK Cork
Cloak Base & Highlights:
- Games Workshop Mournfang Brown
- Games Workshop Rhinox Hide
- Games Workshop Abaddon Black
- AK Morgas Bone
- AK Ice Yellow (or Vallejo Ice Yellow / similar)
Non-Metallic Trim & Tubing:
- Vallejo Neutral Grey
- Vallejo Sky Grey
- Pastel Blue (AK or equivalent)
- White (for final highlights)
Non-Metallic Gold:
- Games Workshop XV-88
- Two Thin Coats Dune Yellow
- Two Thin Coats Sand Yellow
- Ice Yellow or Pastel Yellow
- Games Workshop Mournfang Brown (for shadow details)
Face:
- Games Workshop Bugman’s Glow
- Pastel Blue
- AK Soch Green or AK Archaic Turquoise (for blue shading)
Hat and Red Cloth:
- AK Matte Red
- AK Deep Red
- AK Cadmium Red
- AK Burnt Red
Brushes:
- Artis Opus Size 4
- Size 00 and Size 0 for precision work
Step-by-Step Guide
Pre-Shading with the Airbrush
Start with the model assembled and primed. Use an airbrush to apply:
- AK Soch Green sprayed from below to simulate shadows.
- Then airbrush AK Cork as a zenithal highlight from above.
This underpainting will act as a guide for light placement on the cloak and face, and helps build contrast for your non-metallic metal (NMM) later on.
Blocking Non-Metallic Areas
Use AK Black thinned down with water (around 1:2 paint to water) to loosely wash over all areas intended for NMM:
- Mace
- Tubing
- Hat trim
- Chest details
This wash subtly darkens surfaces, enhancing later contrast without filling in recesses like Contrast paints do.
Painting the Fluffy Cloak
Start with Mournfang Brown, heavily thinned (about 1:1.5 paint to water). Use a large brush (Artis Opus Size 4) and drag the paint downwards toward shadow areas, leaving lighter areas around the upper shoulders and neck.
- Add Rhinox Hide in deeper recesses.
- Wet blend Mournfang Brown and Black into the base for richer shadows.
- Once dry, use AK Morgas Bone in a loose wet-brush or semi-drybrush manner to bring up texture.
- Introduce Ice Yellow for sharper highlights (especially effective for punchy warmth).
Glazing for Softness:
- Glaze with Mournfang Brown (4:1 water to paint) to soften transitions.
- Repeat with AK Cork over highlighted areas to unify tones and bring back fluffiness.
The cloak is sculpted with soft detail, so focus on slow transitions and avoid sharp contrasts.
Painting Non-Metallic Trim
Block in large highlight shapes with Vallejo Neutral Grey:
- Be generous—smaller areas will get eaten by later highlights.
Layer up:
- Neutral Grey
- 50/50 Neutral Grey + Sky Grey
- Sky Grey
- Sky Grey + Pastel Blue
- Pastel Blue
- Small touches of pure White for bright points
Use stippling, line work, and tiny marks to convey texture. For bounce light, glaze in AK Cork where fur reflects onto metal.
Painting the Face
Start with Bugman’s Glow, building it over the zenithal base.
- Mix Bugman’s Glow + Pastel Blue for highlights.
- For sharper highlights: increase Pastel Blue, or even use it pure (with care).
For shadows:
- Thin AK Archaic Turquoise or Soch Green to a glaze (5:1 water to paint).
- Apply subtly to lower cheeks and jawline recesses.
The cold blue tones contrast the warmth and give the Confessor a slightly sickly, dramatic look—perfect for grimdark flavour.
Painting the Red Hat and Robes
Block in all red areas using AK Matte Red.
Highlights:
- AK Deep Red for first pass
- Cadmium Red on forward-facing areas
- Keep left side (as viewed) darker—highlight only with Deep Red
Shadows:
- Use AK Burnt Red sparingly at the base and under folds
For blending:
- Glaze Cadmium Red with Deep Red to smooth transitions
- Use a Size 4 brush for long, smooth blends
- Drag or stipple with Matte Red or Burnt Red as needed
These are high-saturation reds, with minimal white or black added. Keep it punchy and rich.
Finishing Touches on the Trim & Symbols
Use the same NMM greys and yellows as before for:
- The Inquisition “I” symbols on the chest and hat
- Cable around the back of the head
Add extra Mournfang Brown marks to simulate reflections on the flat “I” symbols where sculpted detail is minimal.
Pro Tips
- Face placement matters: Your eye is naturally drawn here, so use fine dot highlights for lips, cheeks, and eyes.
- Avoid over-highlighting fur: It becomes too harsh and loses softness.
- Adjust bounce light colours to reflect nearby surfaces (e.g. cloak fur tone into hat trim).
- Test your colour jumps: On smaller surfaces, you can skip intermediate mixes for a faster finish.
- Use your lamp to guide highlight placement realistically, but tweak for scale.
That wraps up part one! You’ve now got the base cloak, face, non-metallics, and red sections laid in. In the next part, we’ll tackle the remaining robes, weapon, and finishing details.
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