A selection of detailed how to paint an Ogroid Myrmidon videos including red OSL, NMM, fur effect, horns and freehand on his shield.

Myrmidons are masters of the Varanspire’s fighting pits, and have spent decades mastering the gladiatorial arts. In battle, they lead those who seek to join the Everchosen’s legions, for to impress a Myrmidon is to be marked for glory.

Scroll this page to explore the Ogroid Myrmidon videos in order, or click on the below contents to jump to a specific part of the model or technique:

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Video: Ogroid Myrmidon Face and Horns

This video shows how to paint the face and horns along with the NMM golden horn tips.

Materials Needed:

• Primer: Black
• Base Colours: Mephiston Red (GW), Zandri Dust (GW), English Uniform (Vallejo)
• Highlights and Shadows: Wild Rider Red (GW), Troll Slayer Orange (GW), Firedragon Bright (GW), Neutral Grey (Vallejo), Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo), Japanese Uniform (Vallejo), Ice Yellow (Vallejo), White (Vallejo), Heavy Warm Grey (Vallejo), Heavy Skintone (Vallejo)
• Glazes and Details: Mournfang Brown (GW), Corvus Black (GW)
• Airbrush (optional for underside glow effect)

Preparation

1. Priming: Begin with a black primer for deep shadows and to prepare the model for painting.
2. Underglow Effect: Optionally, apply Mephiston Red thinned down with an airbrush (or manually) for an underside glow. This step is not essential but helps to establish the mood and lighting direction for the model.

Painting the Horns

1. Base Layer: Apply a base coat of Rhinox Hide (GW) on the horns, focusing on a rough texture to highlight the weathered appearance.
2. Adding Texture: Use Zandri Dust (GW) to build the texture on the horns, applying it unevenly to create a worn look.
3. Highlighting: Mix Zandri Dust with lighter shades such as Heavy Warm Grey and Heavy Skintone (Vallejo) for highlights, concentrating lighter colours towards the centre of the horns and darker shades towards the tips.
4. Refining Texture: Return with Rhinox Hide to deepen the shadows in textured areas, using a fine brush to emphasise details and the rough texture.
5. Glazing: Employ thin glazes of Mournfang Brown and Corvus Black sparingly to blend and soften transitions.

Painting the NMM Gold Tips

1. Base Colours: Start with English Uniform (Vallejo) for the metallic areas’ base.
2. Building up Metallics: Progress from Japanese Uniform to Ice Yellow (Vallejo), highlighting edges and raised areas to simulate gold reflection.
3. Final Highlights: Use White (Vallejo) for the sharpest highlights on edges and high points to mimic metal shine.
4. Glazing for Depth: Apply glazes of Mournfang Brown to deepen and enrich the gold, being careful not to cover the brightest highlights.

Painting the Face

1. Base Layer for Skin: Use Neutral Grey (Vallejo) for the skin, avoiding areas catching the underglow.
2. Adding Shadows and Highlights: Apply Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo) for highlights on raised areas like the brow, nose, and cheeks, maintaining the glowing effect in recesses.
3. Detailing and Refining: Deepen shadows and define features with Corvus Black (GW), enhancing skin texture and facial details with fine highlights of Pale Grey Blue and White (Vallejo).
4. Adjusting the Underglow: Touch up the underglow with Mephiston Red, Wild Rider Red, and Troll Slayer Orange (GW) to ensure it complements the overall painting, adjusting intensity accordingly.

Finishing Touches

1. Adjusting Highlights: Reassess highlights and shadows, ensuring they align with the desired atmosphere and light source.
2. Details: Focus on small details like teeth and eyes, applying light and shadow principles for emphasis.
3. Glazing: Use glazes to smooth transitions and adjust colour saturation where needed, particularly on the horns and face to unify the piece.

Video: Ogroid Myrmidon Skin

This guide will focus on achieving a textured ogroid skin effect with top-down highlights and red underlighting, alongside a detailed approach to creating a realistic muscle definition. We’ll be using a mix of Vallejo and Games Workshop paints to achieve this effect.

Materials Needed

• Vallejo Paints: Black, Dark Grey, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue
• Games Workshop Paints: Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, Fire Dragon Bright
• Size 0 Artist Opus Brush (preferably a newer one for fine stippling)
• A wet palette
• Water for thinning paints

Step-by-Step Guide to Ogroid Myrmidon Skin

Step 1: Base Coating

Begin by base coating the skin of your Ogroid Myrmidon with Mephiston Red to prepare for the red underlighting. This will serve as the base for our stippling technique later on.

Step 2: Stippling Technique Introduction

For the skin’s texture, we’re going to use a stippling technique. This involves applying tiny dots of paint to create a textured appearance. Start with Vallejo Dark Grey and a touch of Neutral Grey, using a fairly new brush for precise dot application. The goal is to create very fine dots, so remember to apply very light pressure to avoid creating larger, triangular marks.

Step 3: Adding Red Underlighting

Switch to Games Workshop’s Evil Sunz Scarlet, stippling over the red base layer to begin creating the underlighting effect. This will initially appear very bright but will dull down as it dries. Layer over with Mephiston Red to help blend and soften the transition.

Step 4: Top-Down Highlights

For the top-down highlights, use a gradient from Dark Grey to Pale Grey Blue, progressing from darkest to lightest as you move up the model. This mimics natural lighting, emphasizing the muscle contours and giving the skin a realistic depth. Remember, the highlights should reflect where natural light would hit the model, focusing on the tops of curves and muscle peaks.

Step 5: Fine-Tuning Highlights and Shadows

As you apply your highlights, consider the model’s anatomy. Paint sharp lines of Pale Grey Blue in the recesses between muscles, such as between the pectorals and deltoids, to accentuate the definition. Use the light from your lamp as a guide to ensure consistency in your highlighting.

Step 6: Red and Orange Highlights

For the lower parts of the muscles, closer to the model’s base, switch to the warmer tones on your palette: Wild Rider Red, Troll Slayer Orange, and Fire Dragon Bright. Apply these colours opposite to the top-down lighting, focusing on areas that would be illuminated from below. This step may require patience due to the translucency of reds and oranges, necessitating multiple layers for a solid appearance.

Step 7: Blending and Correcting

If any areas stand out too much or the transitions between colours are too stark, revisit them with intermediary shades to blend them more naturally. Stippling allows for easy correction; simply overlay with the appropriate colour to soften and integrate any harsh lines or spots.

Step 8: Final Touches to the Skin

After completing the stippling, examine the model for any areas that may need additional work. Adjust the intensity of the highlights and shadows as necessary, ensuring that the focal points, such as the face and upper torso, are the brightest and most detailed areas.

Video: Ogroid Myrmidon Armour and Muscles

All videos are recorded in HD 720p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Materials Needed:

• Games Workshop Paints: Rhinox Hide, Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Morghast Bone, Abaddon Black, Wild Rider Red, Fire Dragon Bright, Corvus Black
• Vallejo Paints: Pale Grey Blue, Neutral Grey, Dark Grey, Black
• A wet palette for mixing and thinning paints
• Fine detail brushes
• Water for thinning paints

Painting the Leather Armour

1. Base Layer: Start with a base layer of Rhinox Hide. This dark brown serves as a foundation, offering a subtle brown hue. Apply multiple coats if necessary, but remember, the subsequent layers will add depth and detail.
2. Mixing for Texture: Create a 50/50 mix of Rhinox Hide and Cadian Fleshtone on your wet palette. This mix will serve as the primary texture colour for the leather.
3. Applying Texture: Use the 50/50 mix to start adding texture to the leather. Focus on long, vertical, slightly erratic strokes to mimic the natural wear and tear of leather. Pay attention to the armour’s sculpted details, like studs and indentations, to guide your texturing.
4. Adding Highlights: Gradually lighten the texture by incorporating more Cadian Fleshtone and Morghast Bone into your mixes. Apply these lighter tones to areas that would naturally catch the light, enhancing the texture and giving the leather a more three-dimensional appearance.
5. Glazing for Depth: Once you’re satisfied with the texture, use a glaze of Mournfang Brown and Abaddon Black to tone down the highlights and integrate the textures, adding depth and richness to the leather. This step unifies the various layers of texture and colour.

Highlighting Black Skin

1. Preparing Your Palette: On your wet palette, arrange Vallejo paints from Dark Grey to Pale Grey Blue, including mixed shades for smoother transitions. Thin these paints more than usual to avoid building up too thick a layer with the stippling technique.
2. Stippling Technique: Begin stippling with Dark Grey, gradually transitioning through the greys to Pale Grey Blue for the highlights. Stippling involves applying numerous tiny dots to build up texture and colour depth. This technique is particularly effective for creating a nuanced, textured appearance on the skin.
3. Attention to Lighting: When applying your highlights, consider the model’s primary viewing angle and the imaginary light source. Focus your highlights on areas that would naturally be illuminated, like the tops of muscles, while keeping the base skin tone visible in shadowed areas.
4. Refining Highlights: Use glazes of Abaddon Black and Corvus Black to soften and blend the stippled highlights, ensuring they contribute to the model’s overall appearance without overpowering the base skin tone. These glazes help integrate the highlights and create a cohesive look.
5. Final Touches: Revisit any areas that may require additional highlights or adjustments, enhancing the model’s dimensional appearance. Pay special attention to achieving a balance between the highlighted areas and the overall dark tone of the skin.

Video: Scorpion Freehand First Steps

This first part of the tutorial covers the preparation and beginning stages of scorpion freehand painting on the Ogroid Myrmidon’s shield

Materials Needed and Preparation

• Primer: Black
• Base Colours: XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zandri Dust, Morghast Bone (All Games Workshop)
• Detailing: Model Colour Black (Vallejo)
• Tools: Scalpel, fine-grit sandpaper, large and fine brushes, wet palette

1. Preparing the Shield: Remove the model’s original shield detail using a scalpel and fine-grit sandpaper to create a smooth surface for freehand painting. This process ensures a flat canvas for your artwork.
2. Priming: Prime the entire model, including the shield, in black to provide a uniform base coat. If desired, apply an underglow effect with Mephiston Red using an airbrush on the model’s underside for atmospheric lighting.

Painting the Ogroid Myrmidon Shield’s Background

1. Base Layer: Start by applying XV-88 in multiple thin layers to achieve an opaque finish. Mix approximately one part water to one part paint, using a fairly large brush for broad strokes. Patience is key; allow each layer to dry thoroughly.
2. Blending: While the XV-88 base is still workable, begin blending Mournfang Brown from the bottom of the shield upwards. This technique creates a gradient effect that adds depth to the shield’s background.
3. Highlighting and Texture: Use Zandri Dust and Morghast Bone to introduce highlights, particularly focusing on the top of the shield where light naturally hits. This process also starts to introduce the worn, textured look desired for the shield.
4. Brush Techniques: To achieve a smoother blend and avoid harsh brush marks, employ cross-hatching and other texturing techniques with your brush. This approach will help create a more natural transition between colours.
5. Glazing for Smoothness: After the initial layering and texturing, apply glazes of the same colours (XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zandri Dust, Morghast Bone) diluted with water (about six or seven parts water to one part paint). Glazing helps smooth out transitions and enrich the colour depth.

Starting the Scorpion Freehand

1. Design Placement: Before starting the scorpion freehand, consider the shield’s round shape and ensure your design aligns properly with the model’s orientation. Use the back of the shield as a reference to determine the top and bottom.
2. Sketching the Design: With Model Colour Black, begin sketching your scorpion freehand design. For this tutorial, a scorpion motif is used. Start with basic shapes and outlines, keeping the lines thin and manageable. This stage is about laying down the design’s foundation, so precision is more important than coverage.
3. Refining the Design: Gradually thicken and refine the outlines of your scorpion freehand design, paying close attention to symmetry and proportion. Adjust the thickness of the lines to create depth and interest.
4. Correcting Mistakes: If you make any errors or wish to adjust the design, you can cover mistakes with the base colours (XV-88, Mournfang Brown, Zandri Dust, Morghast Bone). This step may require reapplying glazes to blend the corrections into the background.

Video: Scorpion Freehand Refinement and Details

Looking at rendering the freehand scorpion to achieve a three-dimensional appearance and then weathering the shield for a battle-worn look.

Additional Materials:

• A wet palette to keep paints hydrated and to mix custom colours.
• Fine grit sandpaper for smoothing the shield surface after modifications.
• A scalpel or hobby knife for removing details from the shield.
• Water container for rinsing brushes.
• Paper towels or a clean cloth for brush drying and paint removal.
• Mixing palette for creating custom colours and diluting paints for glazing.
• Hairdryer (optional) for speeding up the drying process between layers.
• Sponge (optional, not used but mentioned) for creating textured weathering effects.

What do These Techniques Mean?:

• Pointillism and Stippling: For creating textured effects on the scorpion’s carapace.
• Glazing: Thin layers of paint applied to subtly shift colours or blend transitions.
• Fine Detail Work: Using the very tip of a fine brush to outline and add intricate details to the scorpion.
• Weathering: Applying chips, scratches, and wear to both the scorpion and the shield’s surface to create a battle-worn look.

Paints:

Games Workshop (Citadel):

• Mournfang Brown
• XV-88
• Zandri Dust
• Morghast Bone
• Naggaroth Night
• Khorne Red
• Corax White (for mixing and creating lighter tones)

Vallejo:

• Neutral Grey
• Dark Grey
• Warm Grey
• Pale Grey Blue
• Model Colour Black (for outlining and fine details)

P3 (Privateer Press):

• Morrow White
• Iyanden Yellow (mentioned as a substitute for Iosen Green for brighter effect)

Rendering the Scorpion

1. Base Layer: Begin with Neutral Grey for stippling and pointillism across the scorpion, creating texture and initial shadows. This technique simulates the scorpion’s shiny carapace.
2. Changing Techniques: Partway through, you might find the style needs adjustment to better represent the scorpion on a smaller scale. While aiming for realism, ensure the final look is visually appealing on the model.
3. Colour Palette Adjustment: Add Warm Grey and Pale Grey Blue to introduce subtle tonal variations, enhancing the scorpion’s three-dimensional appearance.
4. Highlighting: Use Morrow White sparingly for the highest highlights, focusing on areas like the pincers, the body segments, and the stinger to emphasize their importance and shininess.
5. Colour Glazing: Apply thin glazes of Naggaroth Night and Iyanden Yellow (substituted for Iosen Green for a brighter effect) to add colour depth without overpowering the grey tones. This step subtly alters the scorpion’s colour while maintaining its overall grey appearance.

Weathering the Ogroid Myrmidon Shield

1. Preparation: Use the base colours (Mournfang Brown, XV-88, Zandri Dust, Morghast Bone) to match the weathering effects to the shield’s underlying tones.
2. Technique: Apply small, opaque marks with Dark Grey and Neutral Grey to simulate chips and wear, focusing on areas that would naturally receive more damage. Use a fine brush for precision.
3. Detailing: Enhance the weathering with thin lines and stippling, simulating scratches and abrasions. This creates a realistic effect of battle damage across the shield, including over the scorpion design.
4. Integration: To integrate the scorpion with the shield’s weathered look, apply thin glazes of Mournfang Brown over the entire design. This unifies the scorpion with the shield’s background, softening contrasts and blending the freehand work into the overall shield design.
5. Colour Highlights: For areas requiring correction or emphasis, use the shield’s base colours, adjusted one shade lighter, to subtly highlight edges and details, ensuring the scorpion remains the focal point.

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