Here are all of my tutorials so far on how to paint Mephiston, from basic assembly and removing mould lines and filling gaps, to detailed instruction on his painting itself with freehand, NMM and more.

Scroll to watch all of the videos in order, or quickly jump to a part of the model or technique by clicking on the below:

Video Tutorial : Build and Convert Mephiston Without Mould Lines or Gaps!

This video shows you how to build and convert Mephiston of the Blood Angels and end up with a result that has no mould lines or gaps.

The following tools were used in the video:
Tamiya Extra Thin Cement Revell
Contacta Plus Glue
Greenstuff 2 Part Yellow and Blue epoxy
Scalpel
Clippers (I used Tamiya 300074123 – Diagonal Cutter)

Video Tutorial: How to Paint Mephiston – Part One

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Paints and Materials

• Paints: Mephiston Red, Abaddon Black, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3)

Step by Step Guide

1. Preparation:
   • Ensure your model is primed black and free of mould lines or gaps. Refer to the accompanying video (Build and Convert Mephiston Without Mould Lines or Gaps!) on how to convert and build Mephiston for detailed preparation instructions.
2. Base Layering:
   • Start with a base layer of Mephiston Red, applying the paint in the top right area of each section of the model. This establishes the direction of your primary light source, which is from the top right.
3. Shoulder Pad Painting (Non-Metallic Gold):
   • Begin with XV-88, applying it in a sketchy manner. This approach allows for the creation of texture which can be refined later into smoother transitions or left as-is for a more battle-worn look.
   • Remember to consider the direction of light and how it interacts with different surfaces. For flat surfaces, create random reflections, whereas curved surfaces should have highlights that follow their shape.
4. Highlighting and Detailing:
   • Progress through the colours from XV-88 to Balor Brown and then to Ice Yellow for highlights. Use stippling techniques to apply these highlights, focusing on the brightest points where light would naturally hit.
   • Mix Yriel Yellow with Ice Yellow for warmer gold tones, especially near the edges of the armour. This contrast will be accentuated by a cooler light source on the opposite side.
5. Painting the Red Armour:
   • Apply Mephiston Red as a base, followed by Evil Sunz Scarlet and Wild Rider Red for highlights. Focus on the top right areas to align with the primary light source.
   • Mix Ice Yellow with Wild Rider Red for the highest highlights, ensuring these are applied sparingly to maintain the red tone of the armour.
   • Use Rhinox Hide and Abaddon Black to deepen shadows and refine transitions.
6. Applying Fine Details:
   • For finer details such as ribbing on the armour and small features, use a worn-out size 1 brush for better control. Incorporate small imperfections like scratches and dents for added realism.
   • Utilise stippling with finer brushes (size 00) for more delicate work, especially on small, detailed areas like the golden skull.
7. Adjusting Highlights and Shadows:
   • Revisit areas to adjust the opacity and brightness of highlights. Use P3 Morrow White for the brightest points, ensuring these are opaque for a metallic effect.
   • Enhance the contrast between highlights and mid-tones to achieve a more dynamic look.
8. Final Touches:
   • Add subtle glazes with Yriel Yellow and other colours to enrich the hues while maintaining the integrity of the primary and secondary light sources.
   • Continuously refine and adjust the balance between light and dark, ensuring a coherent and harmonious appearance across the model.

Video Tutorial: How to Paint Mephiston – Part Two

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Paints and Materials

• Paints: Mephiston Red, Abaddon Black, Rhinox Hide, XV-88, Balor Brown, Yriel Yellow, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Wild Rider Red, Cadian Fleshtone, Mournfang Brown (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3)

Steps on How to Paint Mephiston

1. Enhancing Chest Armour:
   • Revisit the chest armour, increasing the brightness and size of the highlights. Ensure that the recesses between the ribs are lighter to avoid overly pronounced shine dots. Aim for a balanced sheen between the gold and the cloth elements.
2. Refining Highlights and Shadows:
   • Soften the transitions on the pectoral armour and midsection, avoiding excessively bright highlights that compete with the main shine points. Use a blend of Mephiston Red, Evil Sunz Scarlet, and Wild Rider Red, gradually adding Ice Yellow for the brightest highlights.
3. Skirt Painting:
   • Focus on creating a rich, saturated red tone using Mephiston Red. Apply multiple layers for opacity, ensuring the red stands out against darker areas. For the highest highlights, mix Wild Rider Red with a small amount of Ice Yellow or White. Use a glaze of Mephiston Red to unify the tones and correct any overly orange highlights.
4. Painting the Tubing:
   • For the ribbed tubing, create a more natural metallic look by blending highlights into the recesses rather than highlighting each rib perfectly. Use a mix of Neutral Grey, Pearl Grey Blue, and Morrow White for the right side (light source), and Neutral Grey for the left.
5. Filigree on Skirt:
   • Plan to add non-metallic gold filigree details on the skirt’s trim in a later stage to enhance the model’s detail and coherence.
6. Necklace String:
   • Paint the necklace string with XV-88, creating an angled line pattern to mimic the texture of a rope or string. Highlight with Cadian Fleshtone, blending shadows with XV-88 for depth.
7. Final Adjustments and Preparing for Future Steps:
   • Continually adjust the balance between light and dark areas. Prepare for painting the face and sword in upcoming tutorials, ensuring all elements harmonise in terms of light direction and intensity.

Video Tutorial: How to Paint Mephiston’s Head to Display Standard

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Paints and Materials Needed

• Paints: Cadian Fleshtone, XV-88, Kislev Flesh, Macragge Blue, Calgar Blue, Blue Horror, Abaddon Black, Ushabti Bone, Screaming Skull (Games Workshop); Ice Yellow, Neutral Grey, Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo); Morrow White (P3, or any white)

Step by Step Guide

1. Skin Base Layer:
   • Begin by applying a thin base layer of Cadian Fleshtone, using a 2:1 ratio of water to paint. Apply multiple layers to build up colour, focusing on keeping the paint thin to avoid texture build-up on the face.
2. Hair Base Layer:
   • For the hair, use XV-88 with a similar water to paint ratio as the skin. The goal is to lay a foundation for subsequent detailing and highlights.
3. Eye Sockets:
   • Fill in the eye sockets with Cantor Blue. The focus is to cover the whole recess without overspilling onto the lower eyelids. This sets the stage for Mephiston’s glowing blue eyes.
4. Adjusting Flesh Tones:
   • Mix a small amount of Abaddon Black with Cadian Fleshtone to create a darker flesh tone for shading. Apply this carefully, focusing on the left side of the face, which will be in shadow due to planned OSL (Object Source Lighting) effects.
5. Refining Facial Highlights:
   • Apply Kislev Flesh to raised areas of the face. This stage involves working back and forth with different skin tones to create a realistic light effect. Pay particular attention to the nose bridge and avoid highlighting just the tip of the nose.
6. Hair Detailing:
   • Blend Ice Yellow with XV-88 for the hair, focusing on creating transitions and natural looking highlights. Later, adjust the hair colour with grey tones to achieve a more platinum blonde look, differentiating it from the non-metallic gold elsewhere on the model.
7. Facial Details:
   • Use Screaming Skull for teeth, keeping them understated rather than overly bright. Apply white highlights to the blue eyes, making them glow but avoiding an overly bright look.
8. Metal Temple Piece:
   • Paint the metal piece on the temple starting with Neutral Grey and working up to Pale Grey Blue and then white for the brightest highlights. This should mimic the light effect seen on the rest of the model.
9. Final Touches:
   • Apply final highlights and shadows, paying attention to the overall balance of the face. Use photography to assess the progress and make adjustments as needed. Add subtle details like a highlight on the lips and final adjustments to the hair.

Video Tutorial: How to paint a Sword in NMM (plus lightning)

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Paints and Materials

• Paints: Basalt Grey, Neutral Grey, Ice Yellow, Black, Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo), Mournfang Brown, Rhinox Hide, Sotek Green (Games Workshop), Morrow White (P3)
• Ultra Matte varnish
• Fine paintbrushes
• Wet palette

Step by Step Guide

1. Primer and Base Layers:
   • Ensure your sword is primed black. Begin by applying Basalt Grey to the sword, using horizontal strokes if the sword is held horizontally. This step forms the base of our NMM effect.
2. Creating Texture and Contrast:
   • Add some texture to your paintwork by creating random reflections on the blade with Basalt Grey. Increase the contrast by adding Ice Yellow for bright highlights. Remember, the Vallejo colours may separate on the palette, so ensure you mix them well before applying.
3. Blending and Highlights:
   • Use a stippling technique for blending. Mix Neutral Grey and Ice Yellow on your brush for an intermediate tone and blend directly on the model. The goal is to create a smooth transition from dark to light, focusing on the edges of the blade.
4. Adding Colour to Transitions:
   • Introduce Pale Grey Blue at the edges of the transitions for colour variation. This step is crucial for adding realism to the NMM effect.
5. Painting the Lightning Effect:
   • Begin with Sotek Green to paint the base of your lightning. Create thin, jagged lines emanating from the blue gems on the sword hilt. Mix in a small amount of Morrow White with Sotek Green for a lighter shade and highlight the lightning bolts, focusing on the forks for a realistic effect.
6. Detailing the Sword Hilt:
   • Paint the hilt in a gold colour (method not covered in this tutorial). Ensure the hilt complements the blade in terms of light direction and colour intensity.
7. Adjusting the Lower Part of the Blade:
   • Paint the lower part of the blade using Mournfang Brown and Rhinox Hide, keeping it darker to contrast with the lightning. This area reflects the ground, so keep the highlights subtle and minimal.
8. Final Touches:
   • Use Black, watered down, for glazing and refining the transitions. This step is crucial for achieving a smooth gradient and realistic metallic effect.
   • Revisit any areas that need more contrast or sharper highlights. The brightest spots should be opaque for a shiny effect.
9. Finishing with Ultra Matte Varnish:
   • Once satisfied with your painting, apply a coat of Ultra Matte varnish to even out the surface and enhance the overall look.

Video Tutorial: How to paint Filigree (fancy details)

This video shows how to paint filigree (fancy details) on the lower robes of Mephiston.

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Paints and Materials

The following paints were used:
Games Workshop: XV-88, Mephiston Red, Abaddon Black
Vallejo: Ice Yellow

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Preparation and Design:
   • Begin by sketching out a filigree pattern on paper to familiarize yourself with the shapes and design.
   • Consider simplifying the design as needed for the scale of the miniature.
2. Initial Painting:
   • Using Games Workshop’s XV-88, start painting the base of the filigree design.
   • Focus on getting the shape right, especially the backward facing ‘S’ shapes, as this forms the main part of your design.
   • Ensure your brush has a clean, sharp tip for precise painting.
3. Adapting the Design:
   • Adjust the design as you paint, especially if certain elements don’t translate well on the miniature.
   • Remember that minor inconsistencies are less noticeable once the entire row is painted.
4. Paint Consistency and Application:
   • Use Mephiston Red from Games Workshop, diluted with water in a 2:1 ratio, for correcting mistakes.
   • Apply the paint by pulling the brush towards you, not pushing, to avoid splaying the bristles and creating uneven lines.
5. Refining the Design:
   • Introduce curves and dots to the design for a more dynamic and finished look.
   • Use the red paint to cut into the filigree and refine its edges, achieving cleaner lines.
6. Painting Details and Highlights:
   • For highlighting, use a mix of Baelor Brown and Vallejo’s Ice Yellow, starting with broader highlights and gradually reducing their size.
   • Highlight all parts of the filigree, regardless of their position in the light, as this enhances the design rather than simulating realistic lighting.
7. Adjusting the Paint Palette:
   • Refresh your paint regularly on the wet palette, especially when working over multiple sessions.
   • Add new paint on top of the slightly dried paint to maintain the desired consistency.
8. Final Touches and Adjustments:
   • Revisit earlier sections of the filigree and make adjustments to ensure consistency across the design.
   • Remember to maintain the filigree design across the folds of the skirt, adapting as necessary to fit the miniature’s contours.
9. Closing Tips:
   • Take your time with the first section to establish the pattern and technique.
   • Continually refine your approach as you progress, making adjustments for better results.

Video: How to Paint Blood Phials on Mephiston

All videos are recorded in HD 1080p or higher – use full screen for the full effect and let the video load completely.

Paints and Materials

• Paints: Sotek Green, Evil Sunz Scarlet, Mournfang Brown, Cadian Fleshtone, Rhinox Hide (Games Workshop); Neutral Grey, White, Pale Grey Blue (Vallejo)
• Fine paintbrushes – I use the Artist Opus range, but any high-quality paintbrush is recommended.

Step-by-Step Guide

1. Preparation:
   • Start by blocking in the leather strip with Rhinox Hide. This step is crucial as it prevents messing up the details of the syringes and vials later.
2. How to Paint the Blood Phials:
   • Use Evil Sunz Scarlet to paint the blood. This brighter red contrasts well with the rest of the model and helps the blood stand out.
   • Mimic the angle and motion of the vial in your painting. This adds realism to the blood’s appearance inside the vial.
   • Mix Abaddon Black with Evil Sunz Scarlet for the top half of the vial to create a sense of translucency.
   • Don’t worry about perfection here as the upcoming highlights will cover much of this area.
3. Non-Metallic Steel Effect:
   • Begin with Neutral Grey for a steel effect on the syringes. Paint rough, random shapes to replicate metallic reflections.
   • Mix Neutral Grey, Pearl Grey Blue, and White for highlights, ensuring to match the style of the armour’s highlights.
4. Highlight Consistency:
   • Pay attention to the direction of light when applying highlights. Ensure they are consistent across the model. Use Model Color Black to tidy any overpainting.
5. OSL Reflections:
   • Use Sotek Green for OSL reflections on the left side of the vials, creating a blue-green effect.
   • Start from the top right and move downwards, letting the paint naturally form a highlight at the bottom.
   • Mix a bit of white with Sotek Green for increased brightness on the rounded bases.
6. Detailing the Syringes:
   • Syringes are easier due to their identifiable shapes. Use the same NMM technique as before, but pay extra attention to the direction of the light source.
   • Add bounce highlights using Evil Sunz Scarlet to mimic the reflection from the surrounding environment.
7. Needle Painting:
   • The needles require precision. Use a very fine brush, like an Artist Opus size 00, to achieve sharp, thin highlights.
   • Apply primary highlights and then add bounce highlights in red (for the cloth reflection) and Sotek Green (for OSL).
8. Leather Strap Painting:
   • Start with Mournfang Brown directly onto the wet palette. Apply the paint in varying intensities to create a weathered look.
   • Add Cadian Fleshtone for brighter highlights, using scratchy marks for texture.
   • Use Sotek Green for OSL effects on the leather strap, subtly altering the brown tones.
9. Finishing Touches:
   • Utilize a diluted mix of Mournfang Brown to soften and add colour to the mid-tones and shadows.
   • Ensure all highlights and shadows are consistent and align correctly across the different elements of the model.

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